Nice affordable fork. I bought RL version for my old 26" hardtail as a replacement for Suntour M-2025 (85mm travel) probably the most cheapest coil fork. It came with fully opened preload position so I had to tighten it a bit as it was a little too jumpy. It works fine on macadam, black stanchions look really nice and it is somewhat lighter than the previous one so overall I'm happy with it. The bike feels so much better now. PS: it came in 120mm travel but I really wish it was 100mm. On first service I'll remove the cable lockout switch and reduce the travel.
what, do we have to do this with all forks or are there any, that are free of maintenance? My MTB is almost 10 years old and I never did anything with my RockShox fork. Still working fine tho.
You can get socks that go over the stanchions, or uppers, that stops any dust from getting inside, but they look weird and so most manufacturers got rid of them. It's mostly due to the dust, mud, water, grime and stuff that collects right at the wiper seals due to the tire's tendency to dump its refuse there. Over time, the forks may lose their suppleness and wear out a lot faster. They get stiff, weak, rickety and sound awful. To ensure the forks stay feeling like new, you maintain them, just like any machine or moving part.
Give you a better laugh, I cut my used motorcycle springs, same size of forks, and they fitted, and stiff but do push down, does me in a old gt mountain bike, though forks came of another bike, like down hill forks, heavy but works for me...only thing I have front movement like mains fork bearings loose, must be worn part, for now, it cycles 🚴, A to B...B to A....... 👍 no oil needed, probably leak at top, as turned bike upside down after a rainy ☔ cycle, wow, juicy brown water 💦 lol 😂
YOU try searching for the SR Suntour M2025. I never knew the travel until I finally dug deep. 63mm travel... The fork was already old before one was installed on my bike.
Hi Daniel, do you have experience with clutch derailleur and oval chainrings? I've heard, that oval chainrings may damage the Shimano clutch. Could you say something about it? or may be do a video?:) Thanks a lot, love your videos!
I have this hydraulic lock out but there is almost the same but some message cauction dont open it bcs there is some hydraulic gas is smells like a gas
My Fork model is RST Ghost pretty sure Ghost payed RST to put that on there. It has drawing of mountains on it. I am unable to find RST White Mountain model on the internet, guess I am bringing out my hammer.
Purchased a used bike with a rusty/stuck Omega RST fork. Got it to work again thanks to this video, but notice that on the bottom of the legs on the left side (coil-side) towards the wheel, there is a small hole, which breathes/whistles when dampening. It doesn't look like a hole that is suppose to be there, but it could have a dampening function and just rusted beyond recognition. Can anyone confirm wether or not it should be there?
Check on your fork crown or the crossbar on the lowers and there should be a serial number. I'm pretty sure it's the one on the rear of the crown you need. Look that up on Suntour website and that should tell you what you have, including the year. Next, check up on catalogue for parts diagram and if not, email Suntour and they should send you one, including any maintenance details. I've dealt with them a couple times before and their customer service staff are brilliant.
actually only the one on the spring side !!! i also think its stupid to only have one spring because the bridge has to transmit the spring force into the right leg to keep the axle level
I got a new bike with similar fork. The bike is making alot of clicking and pinging noise unless I set it to the lock out position. If I open it up I get the noises. Any ideas why that is? should I request a new fork under warranty or is it a sign of some other problem? Thankyou.
I had an issue where when I compressed my fork, i would hear clicking noises. I took apart my fork, cleaned my coil and gave it loads more grease, and now works perfectly. I think what was happening was the coil was hitting the edges and making the noise
@@r34d_ I think that happens with me when it first compressors from being fully up and then it's fine but what was actually causing the pain noise on mine was the reflector on the front spokes. Which didn't happen when the fork was lock probably because there's a lot more Flex when it isn't.
@@r34d_ can I put over 700 miles on the bike now so I guess it's alright taking out some rough Trails I've never locked out the fork since rides good still
I am trying to service an Omega that looks exactly like this but the code in the serial number is ME. The lockout bolt won't unscrew as you said above, so I unscrewed the top cup and pulled it free as I unscrewed the bottom, but it still just spins. When I shine a torch down from the top, you can see the other side of the bottom bolt spinning from the inside when you turn the allen key. Any recommendations for completing the strip? Thanks in advance.
Compress the fork if the bolt thread is a little stiff. That way, the lockout mechanism will grip the inside of the lowers, allowing you to loosen the bolt. You can even do this when tightening it.
You seem like you do not know a lot about rst Let me point out some mistakes that you made 1 Rst forks do not have oil in the lowers THEY ARE GREASE LUBRICATED 2 You were lucky that the TNL cartidge bolt came of easily most oftentimes the internals tend to slip and then the bolt can NOT be unscrewed (In that case unscrew the top cup of the lockout assembly and pull on it hard while unscrewing the bottom bolt and it should come out) 3 And most important mistake BOTH RA AND TNL cartidges CAN NOT BE OPENED those small indents below the nut are press points in order to secure the nut and make it impossible to unscrew 4 The rubbery parts of the spring are the Isolators and the caps that help the preload adjuster work well Anyway if you want to know anything else about RST forks feel free to ask me :)
As I see from the RST website, they mention that TNL is "A hydraulic cartridge damping system with compression adjustment to lockout function". Does this means that the hydraulic cartridge works also as damping system, or is it there only for the lockout?
At the TNL description it says this: "Lock-out situation: By using lever to adjust the fork's compression from fast to slow gradually, then till lockout position in the end." At the RL description it says this: "Hydraulic"Remote Lock-out" system which provide an easyway to use lock-out function from handle bar. The new "RL"also let the rider be able to adjust the suspension fork's compression slower or faster." I have the RST Blaze of 2014 or 2015 with RL and as I understand, it must has TNL too, but I can't see any adjustment way for gradually fast to slow compression here, just lock and unlock from the lever at the handlebar. I think I missing something here, so how do you adjust this?
You cant adjust this and you shouldnt just let it be open or clossed If you are willing to take the risk of adjusting it you need the srl lockout lever and even so you wont have any really good damping effect until the last 2-3 clicks But you have confused some things The tnl cartidge is an ra cartidge but with modified valving so it goes from fully locked out to fully unlocke in 200 degrees of rotanion On the other hand the ra cartidge is made so that it can be open thoughtout most of its rotanion and take effect within the last 90 degrees of rotation
But then why at the official site it says "The new "RL" also let the rider be able to adjust the suspension fork's compression slower or faster." ? What do you mean when you say I shouldn't just let it be open or closed? Do you mean I should?
I’m looking to buy a mountain bike,nothing really expensive.and I have the choice of these or suntour.add the advertise the omega as being lightweight.what would you prefer if you don’t mind me asking?
sir, im indonesian biker... is RST BLAZE shock same mechanism with RstOmega?? bcoz from my Blaxe, thin oil came out from left fork. Is that normal or leak?
I NEED HELP!!! So i have a rockshox xc30 and i crashed recently direct with the front wheel the wheel is fine but i think the fork got softer? Is it me or is it possible its a coil fork
Make sure the tyre pressure in the front tire is good. If it feels softer than the rear, you've just lost a little air pressure. Also check the headset, stem, bars, and anything else that might be affecting how the front end feels. Depending on severity of the crash, check the frame for stresses. If all of this is good, it is the fork. If the black cap at the top says "preload", it's a coil fork. If it says "air", it's an air fork. This is the one that's opposite the blue lockout knob. If it's air, you need to put more in it with a shock pump. Don't use any other means of putting air inside it. But I'd suggest taking your bike to a bike shop and have them look at it.
@@NikosKatsikanis i don't know if you solved it or not BUT use PTFE tape on the screw and try again... i mean its a old school solution for many things but it also should work on that
@@NikosKatsikanis its a white tape (has no glue by the way) and you just wrap arround of the bolt threads and screw back in... making the loose part more tight and so your screw can screw back again ... If your bolt is the problem and not the fitting than you might need a new screw than... the PTFE tape is generally used for that and is sold in any hardware shop and is cheap ...
The upper legs on my fork are like scratched, I don't know why. I use WPL oil on them to keep them in good shape, cycle it some times and then wipe off the excess and the dirt it brought up. Don't know why they're that bad scratched, I'm wondering if small rocks crashed against them or something.
That's happened because of wrong installation. When you putted the wheel on the fork, it must had closed the forks too much, so it was working in an angle. You should use some spacers to make it work correctly, without friction.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bzivN4KDg-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice affordable fork. I bought RL version for my old 26" hardtail as a replacement for Suntour M-2025 (85mm travel) probably the most cheapest coil fork. It came with fully opened preload position so I had to tighten it a bit as it was a little too jumpy. It works fine on macadam, black stanchions look really nice and it is somewhat lighter than the previous one so overall I'm happy with it. The bike feels so much better now.
PS: it came in 120mm travel but I really wish it was 100mm. On first service I'll remove the cable lockout switch and reduce the travel.
hi I have a request for you please make a video about the maintenance and repair of the 100mm xcm Thank You
SOLVED! The mystery of why there was a tiny spring and ball bearing in my lockout.
Love to see a similar video for servicing Cannondale Headshok
what, do we have to do this with all forks or are there any, that are free of maintenance? My MTB is almost 10 years old and I never did anything with my RockShox fork. Still working fine tho.
IF YOU FORK HAS BLOCKOUT YES...IF NOT MAYBE..
You can get socks that go over the stanchions, or uppers, that stops any dust from getting inside, but they look weird and so most manufacturers got rid of them.
It's mostly due to the dust, mud, water, grime and stuff that collects right at the wiper seals due to the tire's tendency to dump its refuse there. Over time, the forks may lose their suppleness and wear out a lot faster. They get stiff, weak, rickety and sound awful. To ensure the forks stay feeling like new, you maintain them, just like any machine or moving part.
Excellent and thorough instructions; thank you so much for this very useful information 👍🏼😉
Thanks from Venezuela, a very useful video
Wonderful and detailed explanation, thank you very much!
Give you a better laugh, I cut my used motorcycle springs, same size of forks, and they fitted, and stiff but do push down, does me in a old gt mountain bike, though forks came of another bike, like down hill forks, heavy but works for me...only thing I have front movement like mains fork bearings loose, must be worn part, for now, it cycles 🚴, A to B...B to A....... 👍 no oil needed, probably leak at top, as turned bike upside down after a rainy ☔ cycle, wow, juicy brown water 💦 lol 😂
YOU try searching for the SR Suntour M2025. I never knew the travel until I finally dug deep. 63mm travel... The fork was already old before one was installed on my bike.
Hi Daniel, do you have experience with clutch derailleur and oval chainrings?
I've heard, that oval chainrings may damage the Shimano clutch. Could you say something about it?
or may be do a video?:)
Thanks a lot, love your videos!
I have this hydraulic lock out but there is almost the same but some message cauction dont open it bcs there is some hydraulic gas is smells like a gas
Excellent tutorial! Thank you mate 🍻
I once had the RST first 29er fork and it was so heavy. Theyre ok in the upper price
My Fork model is RST Ghost pretty sure Ghost payed RST to put that on there. It has drawing of mountains on it. I am unable to find RST White Mountain model on the internet, guess I am bringing out my hammer.
Please help me. The cradle for turning my lockout fork is broken to the bottom. So I can't turn the lockout. What's the solution??
Service parts on eBay using the exploded view to find part numbers then rebuild appropriately. Good luck.
13:15 use a socket wrench?
Purchased a used bike with a rusty/stuck Omega RST fork. Got it to work again thanks to this video, but notice that on the bottom of the legs on the left side (coil-side) towards the wheel, there is a small hole, which breathes/whistles when dampening. It doesn't look like a hole that is suppose to be there, but it could have a dampening function and just rusted beyond recognition. Can anyone confirm wether or not it should be there?
Hi mate, nice video. Can i put remote lockout on this one fork? Do i need to change cap for locking or what?
What app do you use to record your trail? Is that automatically linked with your videos?
Russell Niels trail forks
I need help sickbiker sr suntour budget fork with coil on left and oil lockout or dumping on the right and I wish for tutorial on how to change oil
Check on your fork crown or the crossbar on the lowers and there should be a serial number. I'm pretty sure it's the one on the rear of the crown you need. Look that up on Suntour website and that should tell you what you have, including the year. Next, check up on catalogue for parts diagram and if not, email Suntour and they should send you one, including any maintenance details. I've dealt with them a couple times before and their customer service staff are brilliant.
so, the thing that holds the entire weight of the suspension fork are just plastics? The one you removed from preload and lockout?
yep
good point
actually only the one on the spring side !!! i also think its stupid to only have one spring because the bridge has to transmit the spring force into the right leg to keep the axle level
Very well done. Thank you.
I was expecting that you will open the lockout leg :( i wanted to see how to repair it because mine stopped working
I got a new bike with similar fork. The bike is making alot of clicking and pinging noise unless I set it to the lock out position. If I open it up I get the noises. Any ideas why that is? should I request a new fork under warranty or is it a sign of some other problem? Thankyou.
I had an issue where when I compressed my fork, i would hear clicking noises. I took apart my fork, cleaned my coil and gave it loads more grease, and now works perfectly. I think what was happening was the coil was hitting the edges and making the noise
@@r34d_ I think that happens with me when it first compressors from being fully up and then it's fine but what was actually causing the pain noise on mine was the reflector on the front spokes. Which didn't happen when the fork was lock probably because there's a lot more Flex when it isn't.
@@cooloutac well done for finding out what the noise was, I doubt I would have thought to check the reflector lol
@@r34d_ can I put over 700 miles on the bike now so I guess it's alright taking out some rough Trails I've never locked out the fork since rides good still
Nice video. Thanks a lot!
I am trying to service an Omega that looks exactly like this but the code in the serial number is ME.
The lockout bolt won't unscrew as you said above, so I unscrewed the top cup and pulled it free as I unscrewed the bottom, but it still just spins.
When I shine a torch down from the top, you can see the other side of the bottom bolt spinning from the inside when you turn the allen key.
Any recommendations for completing the strip? Thanks in advance.
Compress the fork if the bolt thread is a little stiff. That way, the lockout mechanism will grip the inside of the lowers, allowing you to loosen the bolt. You can even do this when tightening it.
Can you tell me,why my suspension become so hard when is cold outside?..
In the hot weather it's very nice,soft and smooth.
Happens to me too
could be cheap/bad oil that thickens under low temperatures?
Viscosity depends on temperature
@@vagelispavlopoulos Precisely. But with some fluids this is worse than others...
Everything expand and contract with heat and cold
The Tool for that is called Nut, it could be a 24mm one.
mines rst rogue 160mm travel.. can u do a service video
Sir the travel is adjustable? Tnx men
usually fork oil is being used on solo air or dual air fork....
You seem like you do not know a lot about rst
Let me point out some mistakes that you made
1 Rst forks do not have oil in the lowers THEY ARE GREASE LUBRICATED
2 You were lucky that the TNL cartidge bolt came of easily most oftentimes the internals tend to slip and then the bolt can NOT be unscrewed
(In that case unscrew the top cup of the lockout assembly and pull on it hard while unscrewing the bottom bolt and it should come out)
3 And most important mistake BOTH RA AND TNL cartidges CAN NOT BE OPENED those small indents below the nut are press points in order to secure the nut and make it impossible to unscrew
4 The rubbery parts of the spring are the Isolators and the caps that help the preload adjuster work well
Anyway if you want to know anything else about RST forks feel free to ask me :)
As I see from the RST website, they mention that TNL is "A hydraulic cartridge damping system with compression adjustment to lockout function".
Does this means that the hydraulic cartridge works also as damping system, or is it there only for the lockout?
the tnl cartridge DOES HAVE fully modulated damping till lockout
The ra cartidge can have a damping effect but will self destruct really easily
At the TNL description it says this: "Lock-out situation: By using lever to adjust the fork's compression from fast to slow gradually, then till lockout position in the end."
At the RL description it says this: "Hydraulic"Remote Lock-out" system which provide an easyway to use lock-out function from handle bar.
The new "RL"also let the rider be able to adjust the suspension fork's compression slower or faster."
I have the RST Blaze of 2014 or 2015 with RL and as I understand, it must has TNL too, but I can't see any adjustment way for gradually fast to slow compression here, just lock and unlock from the lever at the handlebar.
I think I missing something here, so how do you adjust this?
You cant adjust this and you shouldnt just let it be open or clossed
If you are willing to take the risk of adjusting it you need the srl lockout lever and even so you wont have any really good damping effect until the last 2-3 clicks
But you have confused some things
The tnl cartidge is an ra cartidge but with modified valving so it goes from fully locked out to fully unlocke in 200 degrees of rotanion
On the other hand the ra cartidge is made so that it can be open thoughtout most of its rotanion and take effect within the last 90 degrees of rotation
But then why at the official site it says "The new "RL" also let the rider be able to adjust the suspension fork's compression slower or faster." ?
What do you mean when you say I shouldn't just let it be open or closed? Do you mean I should?
what is the size of the rst omega dust seal? I want to replace it because it's hard to break
Hi, the grease, must be silicone or any type of grease? Silicone based grease will not damage the rubber seal right?
I think rockshox grease or teflon based bike grease would be good
@@pascusclan2941 thanks
Rst omega works good but the problem is the weight its very heavy
I’m looking to buy a mountain bike,nothing really expensive.and I have the choice of these or suntour.add the advertise the omega as being lightweight.what would you prefer if you don’t mind me asking?
sir, im indonesian biker... is RST BLAZE shock same mechanism with RstOmega?? bcoz from my Blaxe, thin oil came out from left fork. Is that normal or leak?
No! Blaze is not hidraulic. Search on the official website
@@adrianodib Blaze has a version with hydraulic lockout too.
What is this "Adjuster" on the right side? with little + and - ? how it works?
Changes the preload basically changes how stiff it is
Those little spaces for the ball bearings would be called detents
Please help I have "RST Dirt ra" fork spring is too soft, want to change it.
Anyone knows the spring parameters ?
If you go on the dmr bikes website I believe you can buy a stiffer spring for them www.dmrbikes.com/Catalogue/Bikes/Spares/Sect-RST-Spring-Upgrade
I NEED HELP!!!
So i have a rockshox xc30 and i crashed recently direct with the front wheel the wheel is fine but i think the fork got softer? Is it me or is it possible its a coil fork
Make sure the tyre pressure in the front tire is good. If it feels softer than the rear, you've just lost a little air pressure. Also check the headset, stem, bars, and anything else that might be affecting how the front end feels. Depending on severity of the crash, check the frame for stresses. If all of this is good, it is the fork.
If the black cap at the top says "preload", it's a coil fork. If it says "air", it's an air fork. This is the one that's opposite the blue lockout knob.
If it's air, you need to put more in it with a shock pump. Don't use any other means of putting air inside it. But I'd suggest taking your bike to a bike shop and have them look at it.
Hi please help me choose between a Scott scale 700 2017 running 2x XTR or a Scott scale RC World Cup running SRAM XO Eagle?
Scott D i woud 2x xtr
Fast Bicycle Rider
Hi thanks for your answer? Any particular reason over the others
X01 Eagle of course!
XO1 Eagle
anyone know how to get the bolt back in if the one with the spring keep turning inside when you try turn the bolt
I’d recommend tightening back up and starting over
@@nomorechances2739 ok, but now it wont tighten
@@NikosKatsikanis i don't know if you solved it or not BUT use PTFE tape on the screw and try again... i mean its a old school solution for many things but it also should work on that
any video, i dont quite understand how@@MsTatakai
@@NikosKatsikanis its a white tape (has no glue by the way) and you just wrap arround of the bolt threads and screw back in... making the loose part more tight and so your screw can screw back again ... If your bolt is the problem and not the fitting than you might need a new screw than... the PTFE tape is generally used for that and is sold in any hardware shop and is cheap ...
Any idea how to remove dust sealers ?? 10:19
my cheap coil fork the bolt is reverse and there is a hole that i can see the coil and the coil reaches the bottom part
Could u make an rst alpha service?
waiting also
Hi , im from iran if my english is bad im sorry about it , my guestion is that how we put oil in to the hydrolic lock out
Pay attention if the lockout is serviceable, beacause if it isn't it can cause injury because of the high pressures inside.
This is a better video without music
how maintance lock fitur in rst omega?
Why is the video 40 mins long? And cuts out near the 20min mark?
He says"use something longer if you like" (while using his finger to apply lube.)then chuckles.lol.
Right and left swiched around
The upper legs on my fork are like scratched, I don't know why. I use WPL oil on them to keep them in good shape, cycle it some times and then wipe off the excess and the dirt it brought up.
Don't know why they're that bad scratched, I'm wondering if small rocks crashed against them or something.
That's happened because of wrong installation. When you putted the wheel on the fork, it must had closed the forks too much, so it was working in an angle. You should use some spacers to make it work correctly, without friction.
Or ya go mudding too much I'd assume lol cheap bike parts can't hang on ebikes
@@Tpenny77 I haven't go in the mud, I guess it's just a defective or bad quality fork
It says 5 mistakes but it became a tutorial
Lol!
One of the screws wont come off
What about rst gila I have one and its solid
I have the same it’s rock solid
@@slowsteadysteve6565 i fixed it🔧🔩 and its work🙂
Interesting... 👍
thx
What preload thing does?
It allows you to adjust the sag.
16:18 that's what she said
LMAO
The same thing to 26,
What happend 19:54?
Didn't pay the power bill.
Elo szaj XD
Very good and explanatory, thank you