In this video we go over how to setup your MSH Brain/Ikon 2 from start to finish, I hope this video helps a lot of you that has asked me for a setup video.
Finally a video that tells me what to do with the pitch being off between positive and negative end points. Thank you and great video! I will be saving this for future reference.
I glad it’s useful! I don’t think I’ve seen anyone else talk about the pitch being off that’s what made me want to make sure I touched on that! Thanks for watching!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Worked like a charm man! Just built my 2nd XLPower 550, absolutely appears to be my best setup yet. I've got to hook back up and redo number 1 now. Thanks again!
🚁 Man this channel is soooo underrated...should have 50K subs by now. It's my go to channel for pretty much anything I'm looking for. Very detailed and straight to the point. I set up my RAW 420 w/ Brain2 and NX8. Any way you can make a video explaining how to setup a HobbyWing ESC, specifically the 60A/80A and how to setup governor and complete serup? That would be amazing! And thanks for the content Jeff! 👍 🚁
Thank you! I’m sorry for late response, just seen this comment. I’m glad the videos are helpful and you can learn from them. I hope one day to hit 50k or more! Yes I can definitely do that!
Nice! iKon is the best FBL in my opinion! The possibilities and things you can do with it are endless! I love how you can literately tune every single thing to your lighting and style. And it’s such a great flying FBL!
Great video same always,I wish you would update configuration either in description or setup file,definitely you changed some items after couple of flying
so depending on the helicopter third depends on what gets changed. I would say 85% of the time off the bench set up is pretty much perfect. Because I have set them up so I can kind of guess what needs to be changed and adjusted. I did make video on advanced menus and what I charge a month or so ago.
This is fantastic, man! Thank you so much for this walkthrough! This will help me greatly 👍 Now, I haven"t done anything on my 470 for almost 2 months, so I might remember wrongly, but I think I might figured out what I did wrong, although I don't know what the effect is: Cyclic servo refresh frequency was set wrong on mine. According to the table it should be 200, I think mine was set to 333 Hz. Perhaps that's why I had way off servo travels, totally disporportional to the stick positions. Anyhow, thanks again. I think I could use your file too 🙂
Awesome glad this video helps! Yes servo refresh rate is a big thing. If it is off it will cause quite a few issues! As soon as I’m done buying tweaking the file I can send it to you.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I recently found time to set up the brain correctly - so was the hope. I set the servo refresh rate exactly as you did, but it didn't fix the issue (major difference between servo throw and stick (tx) throw. Upset with this thing, not sure when I'll get the FrSky rx/tx, long wait. Possibly selling this thing. Really fed up.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Hi, I tried to set up my heli once again, this time with my new FrSky Taranis (OpenTX), which I got a few days ago. Since you done this also with your Radiomaster (OpenTX), I thought I'd ask you for advice. It's about that cyclic throw difference like you show here in your video at around 17:50 . So what I did for one side, which didn't go far enough, is: I increased travel as you did - in OpenTX travel value increase is - from my understanding - on the page "Output". So I increased the aileron travel/endpoint for that side but nothing happened (I kept an eye on the pitch gauge while increasing the value). I thought I might be adjusting the wrong channel or wrong direction, but after decreasing the value a lot, the aileron/cyclic popped into neutral position. So it was the right value I was increasing. I previously ticked "extended limits" or whatever it's called, so I could previously set/reach the 100% marks in the Brain-software. Did I miss something so that the aileron travel (and the elevator travel to be complete) can't be adjusted? Another thing I noticed: I can't tick self level in setup 1 but can in setup 2 and 3. But what for in 2 and 3 lol And another thing. The tail: I go full tail rotor deflection, release the rudderstick and... the servo/tail stays there while the rudderstick is already in center. Then I push the rudderstick in the opposite direction and the tail goes into the other direction but only as long as I keep pushing the stick. The farther I push the rudderstick, the faster the servo acts. Is this normal? I thought the tail should pop back to center if I release the rudderstick (?) And another thing. Again cyclic movement: I push the right stick to about 50% throw - the swashplate tilts as expected, but for the remaining 50% stickthrow the swasplate barely moves/deflects any further (maybe 1% further). Funny thing: My helicopter and/or FBL-unit (MSH Brain2) acts the same way, as it acted when I tried to set it up with my old FlySky Tx/Rx. Now, I got me the FrSky Taranis (F.Port !), because the Brain-develelopers confirmed that they're certain their FBL-unit functions flawlessly with FrSky in F.Port mode. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm kinda lost right now :(
It's not that pitch curve is "non-linear" it's that the pitch curve is not centered. To get equal pitch travel, try lengthing or shortening the servo linkages evenly so the swashplate moves up or down a bit when the servo arms are at 90 degrees. Re-zero the pitch and then check for equal travel.
Good manual. Let me advise you some tricks. You should have 100% travel in fbl system, and if you touching pitch travel range its not correct. The right way, to have same collective at both sides, is to move your swash plate mechanically up(in your case, because you have positive pitch +1 degree more), and after mechanically set zero pitch again. For cyclic if you want to have perfect ranges with aileron and elevator both sides you should go to advanced menu-common-ccpm. Setup aileron and elevator positive cyclic there. Then you go further to servos menu, where you have servo travel limit. For example with elevator, you set positive range before , and you have different values at negative side, need to adjust elevator negative range. Same procedure for aileron and pitch servos, to have the best.
Yes you should have 100% travel in the FBL system hence monitoring and adjusting travel in your radio till you get 100% positive and negative on all cyclic range. Unfortunately setting up the swashplate like you’re saying doesn’t always work. Yes in a perfect world it does but I have set up over 120 Ikon/Brain FBL units. I don’t think I’ve ever had a one that allowed me to get perfect positive and negative pitch equally no matter how much I adjusted the servo length and or if I got the perfect servo length then I could never get zero pitch at the head. The way I do it is perfect works fantastic gives you perfect 90° servo arms perfect zero pitch at mid stick. But I appreciate you commenting, if that works for you fantastic I have personally never been able to get one set up that way and all of them that I have done over the years on all different makes models doesn’t matter the helicopter doesn’t matter the servos I always no matter what have to adjust pitch throw in the radio to get an equal positive and negative even if it’s a few degrees I still have to adjust it no matter what I do with servo arms. A perfect world yes that is how you do it unfortunately in the hundred plus that I have set up never been able to.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Just never give up and try hundred first time) If you did first time like that, and you feel it’s working, the next hundred times doesn’t matter, but that doesnt mean that the system can be configured only that way, you forgot old school, when most adjustments were mechanically and configuration was near perfect if you will play with it some time.. Anyway the video guide is brilliant😊
Great video. Question: on the Swash setup step, you say to use the Ikon software to get your three servos at 90 degrees then mechanically adjust the linkages till your swash plate leveler tool checks out. Does this step have to be done at midstick?
Thank you! So yes, when you are in the iKon software you will be in “Check mode” you will need to have the stick at mid stick and adjust from there. So at mid stick your servos will be 90. If they are off a lot move the horn and then fine tune if they are just off a little then just fine tune. Once the servos are 90 then move up to the swash and then Head.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thank you for the reply. I will give that a shot. I am working on a Trex 250 DFC and the linkages are not like your 450 in the video. They are very basic and require disassembly of the head to adjust each linkage. If I'm close mechanically at mid stick in regards to a level swash, is it ok to use ikon software to adjust each servo to finish the job?
thanks for the good videos ! what is a good pitch for starting point normal mode and 3D mode just learning how to set up m heli but I see that you put your pitch degree around 13.5 but thats for normal flight ?
16:00 what is the best way to make sure you are at pitch 0 at real mid stick? When i go into the ikon setup, there is a large dead band in mid stick and when i get out of the setup the mid stick is usually off by a few notches of the gimble. I want true mid stick according to my gimble. What is the best way to accomplish this, adjust the upper linkages or would it be a software setting in the ikon?
So mid stick will always be true to the FBL in the software. There is no 1000% but if your 0 at mid stick in the software you will be 99% percent. That .01 or so difference will never be seen or noticed. As long as you’re in check mode I would not worry unless there is a huge difference. Also make sure to calibrate your sticks in the radio to be more perfect.
For me when in transmitter setup it shows a blue bar instead of grey and it shows 40% instead of 47% like yours. i am using a ix20 se does that make any difference
@@DaDuTchMan2357 hello! Yes, the first page is just a reference page for you so it does not actually matter, you will select what your servos are (frequency and hertz) in the servo setup section.n
Hi..I'm planning to get Brain 2, for my 450 heli. It's going to be my first fbl set up, with my DX9. I'd like to ask..After you finish the set up. And all works fine. Can you use subtrims, if needed at the field, at any servo from the radio? Or you gonna mess it all up? Many thanks.
no, never use sub trim on the radio to trim a helicopter. If your swash plate is set up correctly and the helicopter is set up correctly you shouldn’t need any trims at all. If you have to use trim for whatever reason, go back and check that your swash plate is perfectly level your servos are, etc.
Turning rotation rate up and then adjusting Stop gain as high as you can till it starts to bounce back. But in doing so depending on the helicopter if it is a TT you will risk blowing TT gears out instantly from the abrupt stop. Belted tails can take the Instant stop/abuse a lot better then a TT heli can.
At the 21min mark you are testing the servo travel so they dont hit and the blades are on with the battery plugged in. As a first time heli pilot, im a bit nervous about this step.
Yes the battery is plugged in, the radio is on hold mode. Of course anything can happen and the Heli can spool up. Blades have to be on to set pitch and travel. If you are nervous about the Heli spooling up you could always unplug the motor wires or loosen the motor up and separate the pinion from the main gear.
So why are we not setting the pitch to +-100 even though the instructions say to do so? I did find that when I set the pitch channel as per the instructions I had way too much collective and I can not reduce it anymore in the setup wizard the same goes for roll and the least amount of pitch I can reduce it to is 17.5
No, there is no need to set the travel in the software to +/- 100%. You want to start at +/-100 in your radio and then set your pitch in the wizard menu to positive 13.5 or 12 witch ever you like.then use your radio travel to get the same equal negative pitch.
If someone has an NX6 transmitter, would rescue be on Aux2? The NX6 actually has a 7th channel. In channel assign, 1 is throttle, 2 is aileron, 3 is elevator, 4 is rudder, 5 is GEAR, 6 is Aux 1/pitch, and 7 is Aux for what you need to assign to. Figure this would be for the rescue?
So you need 8ch to take full advantage of the iKon. CH5 “Gear” is used for tail gain. AUX 1 (7th channel) is for flight modes in the iKon and AUX 2 (8th channel is rescue) now, you can do some remapping in the iKon under Advanced menus and not use the flight mode and use AUX1 as Rescue or Auto level.
Thank you. That may make my V Controller decision easier. Lol. When I got the NX6, it was with a Fusion 360 because I didn't know who deep I wanted to get into the hobby again. Lol
@@AllanG1914 so far I’m very impressed with the radio. I wish I could get more Vbars so I could get some more helis on it but, I’m going to be making full videos on it soon and so,e compensation videos. But I will say, it’s a million times better then a NX6/NX8/NX10. In my opinion the NX radios are way over priced for what you get. it’s also really nice on the Vcontrol/VBAR that everything you need is on the radio, no satellites, no extra stuff. Just bind it and setup all from the radio.
I have accurc, and I have played around with cyclic agility on the flybarless in the sim. How can I convert the amount of deg/s I use in the sim, to the setup on the brain 2? (I like 350 deg/s)
I’m able to follow the video, there’s no gyro for my tail however, everything this normal in the heli and the same in the video, with the exception of in transmitter setup heading lock is red and not checked and I can’t change that
Bro I fallow this video but I have 2 problems the first one is my heli spins when is in normal mode with out doing nothing in the transmitter and second my tail in hold mode move normal right and left but when I go to normal mode the tail moved to right and I have to moved the rud to left and stock means that the tail don't move like right and left stick in right and when I move to the left stick to left not back and forth like when is in hold mode the servo comeback from right and left but not in normal mode can someone help me please
What do you mean spins? When you apply power? Make sure your tail direction is correct. When you spend your main rotor which is clockwise your tail spins counterclockwise. Are you talking about at Steve’s One Direction or the other when you let off of the stick and does not return to center? That is normal.
My throttle is reversed and as soon as I hit page 8 it comes on and goes full bore and I have to pull the USB to stop it! I have tried reversing the throttle in the TX and It works fine but WHY is page 8 making the throttle go crazy?! I can't figure this out. I am on day 2 of trying to setup this gyro and man o man it's been hard. This is not plug and play. It's plug and reverse things. I want to know WHY the brain2 has suddenly reversed the throttle sticks input. This was on a flying 330s with a 6250 and this was not an issue. All this stuff just to add retracts!!!!!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 nope, hold is off. I tried hold mode to shut it off and it doesn't turn the throttle off. I have to physically pull the USB to stop it. Why the USB is controlling the ESC I don't know. I had it all good with the throttle reversed, but the tx page is showing the inputs backwards, so it thinks I'm full bore when I get to page 8 and goes crazy. There is no way to reverse the throttle - ESC commands in the brain2 app. Somehow the brain2 made the ESC flip controls.
@@SpeedyTube83 I would delete the radio file and Brain file and start over. You have something messed up. Always set the heli up in hold mode. Never out of hold.
I got it working! Had to pick a different orientation for the FBL than what it is, reversed throttle at the end screen, and used channel 5 for a servo for retracts and Ltrim for gyro gain. Man I man that was a long day diaging!
The saved configuration file? I don’t think so but this set up video is the same for all helicopters you might just have to change something here or there
@@westhobbiesrc8051 so I have a Sab goblin 500 what’s a good pitch curve for a beginner. I flew helis back in the day like raptor 50 nexus 30 and xcell helis I’m just not use to the new stuff. Thanks in advance.
@@johnbess7320 you will like the goblin 500! A really great helicopter flies fantastic. I would recommend a normal mode pitch curve of 30-40-50-75-100 and for stunt one and two linear 0-25-50-75-100 same with hold. I would start with +/- 12 degrees of cyclic pitch. I’m actually in the process of rebuilding a nexus 30 right now LOL
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Nexus 30 is a great heli for its time. They are going for crazy money right now on eBay. I’ll start with those pitch curves! Thanks happy flying. Let me know how things work out. You should do a vid on the nexus.
@@johnbess7320 videos on the nexus are in the works! Unfortunately my main gear is missing a few teeth and my pitch slider is broken. So I’m making. Rebuild/Restore video and showing how to make molds and pour your own gears and parts! You can’t find a main gear anywhere! I’ve been looking for months now and when I do find one they want $100 plus and I’m not paying that. The plastic gets old and brittle in the teeth just sheer off.
If your going to make a setup video show and claim it is start to finish show the damn governor. Ive gone through every video I can find to setup the Brain FBL and no one shows the governor setup.
This video saved me an unknown amount of stress and frustration. Thanks for a great video Jeff
thank you! I’m glad the video was helpful. They can definitely be stressful and it’s always good to have a correct video to look at.
Finally a video that tells me what to do with the pitch being off between positive and negative end points. Thank you and great video! I will be saving this for future reference.
I glad it’s useful! I don’t think I’ve seen anyone else talk about the pitch being off that’s what made me want to make sure I touched on that! Thanks for watching!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Worked like a charm man! Just built my 2nd XLPower 550, absolutely appears to be my best setup yet. I've got to hook back up and redo number 1 now. Thanks again!
Awesome man! I am very glad to hear that. A good set up is everything! It really transforms the way your helicopter flies.
Another great video Jeff! Always helpful and hope to finish up setting my 470 soon!
Thanks bud! We will get that 470 flying soon as possible!
🚁 Man this channel is soooo underrated...should have 50K subs by now. It's my go to channel for pretty much anything I'm looking for. Very detailed and straight to the point. I set up my RAW 420 w/ Brain2 and NX8. Any way you can make a video explaining how to setup a HobbyWing ESC, specifically the 60A/80A and how to setup governor and complete serup? That would be amazing! And thanks for the content Jeff! 👍 🚁
Thank you! I’m sorry for late response, just seen this comment. I’m glad the videos are helpful and you can learn from them. I hope one day to hit 50k or more! Yes I can definitely do that!
I took your advice got the Ikon2 getting ready to put on my Raw 420. This video rocks!! Good info
Nice! iKon is the best FBL in my opinion! The possibilities and things you can do with it are endless! I love how you can literately tune every single thing to your lighting and style. And it’s such a great flying FBL!
Thank you so much for this video. It made my setup so much easier. Thanks again.
You’re welcome! I’m glad this video helped you! Thank you for watching.
Thank you very much for this full of inform video. We will be very happy if a video come about vibration analysis like this.
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful, that would be a good video. I’ll work on that!
You’ve got the best heli vids on TH-cam.
Thank you! I appreciate that! I try my best!
Thank you for your time Awesome video very Helpful Sir!
Finally got it Jeff - Thanks
Great videos I think I have watched most of them. I would love to see one on Spirit GT setup
I’ve got a spirit GT FBL here I just need to set it up. I’ll definitely make a video on that!
Great stuff.....thanks
Great video same always,I wish you would update configuration either in description or setup file,definitely you changed some items after couple of flying
so depending on the helicopter third depends on what gets changed. I would say 85% of the time off the bench set up is pretty much perfect. Because I have set them up so I can kind of guess what needs to be changed and adjusted. I did make video on advanced menus and what I charge a month or so ago.
This is fantastic, man! Thank you so much for this walkthrough! This will help me greatly 👍
Now, I haven"t done anything on my 470 for almost 2 months, so I might remember wrongly, but I think I might figured out what I did wrong, although I don't know what the effect is: Cyclic servo refresh frequency was set wrong on mine. According to the table it should be 200, I think mine was set to 333 Hz. Perhaps that's why I had way off servo travels, totally disporportional to the stick positions.
Anyhow, thanks again. I think I could use your file too 🙂
Awesome glad this video helps! Yes servo refresh rate is a big thing. If it is off it will cause quite a few issues! As soon as I’m done buying tweaking the file I can send it to you.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I recently found time to set up the brain correctly - so was the hope. I set the servo refresh rate exactly as you did, but it didn't fix the issue (major difference between servo throw and stick (tx) throw.
Upset with this thing, not sure when I'll get the FrSky rx/tx, long wait. Possibly selling this thing. Really fed up.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Hi, I tried to set up my heli once again, this time with my new FrSky Taranis (OpenTX), which I got a few days ago. Since you done this also with your Radiomaster (OpenTX), I thought I'd ask you for advice. It's about that cyclic throw difference like you show here in your video at around 17:50 . So what I did for one side, which didn't go far enough, is: I increased travel as you did - in OpenTX travel value increase is - from my understanding - on the page "Output". So I increased the aileron travel/endpoint for that side but nothing happened (I kept an eye on the pitch gauge while increasing the value). I thought I might be adjusting the wrong channel or wrong direction, but after decreasing the value a lot, the aileron/cyclic popped into neutral position. So it was the right value I was increasing. I previously ticked "extended limits" or whatever it's called, so I could previously set/reach the 100% marks in the Brain-software.
Did I miss something so that the aileron travel (and the elevator travel to be complete) can't be adjusted?
Another thing I noticed: I can't tick self level in setup 1 but can in setup 2 and 3. But what for in 2 and 3 lol
And another thing. The tail: I go full tail rotor deflection, release the rudderstick and... the servo/tail stays there while the rudderstick is already in center. Then I push the rudderstick in the opposite direction and the tail goes into the other direction but only as long as I keep pushing the stick. The farther I push the rudderstick, the faster the servo acts. Is this normal? I thought the tail should pop back to center if I release the rudderstick (?)
And another thing. Again cyclic movement: I push the right stick to about 50% throw - the swashplate tilts as expected, but for the remaining 50% stickthrow the swasplate barely moves/deflects any further (maybe 1% further).
Funny thing: My helicopter and/or FBL-unit (MSH Brain2) acts the same way, as it acted when I tried to set it up with my old FlySky Tx/Rx.
Now, I got me the FrSky Taranis (F.Port !), because the Brain-develelopers confirmed that they're certain their FBL-unit functions flawlessly with FrSky in F.Port mode.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm kinda lost right now :(
@@westhobbiesrc8051 here's a video I made about the issue: th-cam.com/video/iFWXb1qU5Q8/w-d-xo.html
It's not that pitch curve is "non-linear" it's that the pitch curve is not centered. To get equal pitch travel, try lengthing or shortening the servo linkages evenly so the swashplate moves up or down a bit when the servo arms are at 90 degrees. Re-zero the pitch and then check for equal travel.
Hey Jeff - Driving me crazy... My rhrottle us on the pitch and vic versa? Thanks!
Good manual. Let me advise you some tricks. You should have 100% travel in fbl system, and if you touching pitch travel range its not correct. The right way, to have same collective at both sides, is to move your swash plate mechanically up(in your case, because you have positive pitch +1 degree more), and after mechanically set zero pitch again. For cyclic if you want to have perfect ranges with aileron and elevator both sides you should go to advanced menu-common-ccpm. Setup aileron and elevator positive cyclic there. Then you go further to servos menu, where you have servo travel limit. For example with elevator, you set positive range before , and you have different values at negative side, need to adjust elevator negative range. Same procedure for aileron and pitch servos, to have the best.
Yes you should have 100% travel in the FBL system hence monitoring and adjusting travel in your radio till you get 100% positive and negative on all cyclic range. Unfortunately setting up the swashplate like you’re saying doesn’t always work. Yes in a perfect world it does but I have set up over 120 Ikon/Brain FBL units. I don’t think I’ve ever had a one that allowed me to get perfect positive and negative pitch equally no matter how much I adjusted the servo length and or if I got the perfect servo length then I could never get zero pitch at the head. The way I do it is perfect works fantastic gives you perfect 90° servo arms perfect zero pitch at mid stick. But I appreciate you commenting, if that works for you fantastic I have personally never been able to get one set up that way and all of them that I have done over the years on all different makes models doesn’t matter the helicopter doesn’t matter the servos I always no matter what have to adjust pitch throw in the radio to get an equal positive and negative even if it’s a few degrees I still have to adjust it no matter what I do with servo arms. A perfect world yes that is how you do it unfortunately in the hundred plus that I have set up never been able to.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Just never give up and try hundred first time) If you did first time like that, and you feel it’s working, the next hundred times doesn’t matter, but that doesnt mean that the system can be configured only that way, you forgot old school, when most adjustments were mechanically and configuration was near perfect if you will play with it some time.. Anyway the video guide is brilliant😊
Have you ever used the Soko tools method? I have been experimenting with it and it seems to work really well.
Great video. Question: on the Swash setup step, you say to use the Ikon software to get your three servos at 90 degrees then mechanically adjust the linkages till your swash plate leveler tool checks out. Does this step have to be done at midstick?
Thank you! So yes, when you are in the iKon software you will be in “Check mode” you will need to have the stick at mid stick and adjust from there. So at mid stick your servos will be 90. If they are off a lot move the horn and then fine tune if they are just off a little then just fine tune. Once the servos are 90 then move up to the swash and then Head.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thank you for the reply. I will give that a shot. I am working on a Trex 250 DFC and the linkages are not like your 450 in the video. They are very basic and require disassembly of the head to adjust each linkage. If I'm close mechanically at mid stick in regards to a level swash, is it ok to use ikon software to adjust each servo to finish the job?
thanks for the good videos ! what is a good pitch for starting point normal mode and 3D mode just learning how to set up m heli but I see that you put your pitch degree around 13.5 but thats for normal flight ?
I always run +/- 13.5 degrees but you should start around 12.5 and see how you like it. add or take away pitch to your liking.
16:00 what is the best way to make sure you are at pitch 0 at real mid stick? When i go into the ikon setup, there is a large dead band in mid stick and when i get out of the setup the mid stick is usually off by a few notches of the gimble. I want true mid stick according to my gimble. What is the best way to accomplish this, adjust the upper linkages or would it be a software setting in the ikon?
So mid stick will always be true to the FBL in the software. There is no 1000% but if your 0 at mid stick in the software you will be 99% percent. That .01 or so difference will never be seen or noticed. As long as you’re in check mode I would not worry unless there is a huge difference. Also make sure to calibrate your sticks in the radio to be more perfect.
For me when in transmitter setup it shows a blue bar instead of grey and it shows 40% instead of 47% like yours. i am using a ix20 se does that make any difference
Hey Jeff, my cyclic servos aren't listed, DS450M Digital. Do I select unlisted and continue set up since there's a servo setup anyway?
@@DaDuTchMan2357 hello! Yes, the first page is just a reference page for you so it does not actually matter, you will select what your servos are (frequency and hertz) in the servo setup section.n
Hi..I'm planning to get Brain 2, for my 450 heli. It's going to be my first fbl set up, with my DX9. I'd like to ask..After you finish the set up. And all works fine. Can you use subtrims, if needed at the field, at any servo from the radio? Or you gonna mess it all up? Many thanks.
no, never use sub trim on the radio to trim a helicopter. If your swash plate is set up correctly and the helicopter is set up correctly you shouldn’t need any trims at all. If you have to use trim for whatever reason, go back and check that your swash plate is perfectly level your servos are, etc.
can you do a video on where the wires from the esc go in to what port on the ikon 2 to get telemetry with the srlx2
You can watch any of the SAB build videos and I explain/show where the wires go but I can make a designated video.
How would you make the heli to pirouette really fast and to stop instantly? Other than mixing rudder to gyro gain, is there any other way to do it?
Turning rotation rate up and then adjusting Stop gain as high as you can till it starts to bounce back. But in doing so depending on the helicopter if it is a TT you will risk blowing TT gears out instantly from the abrupt stop. Belted tails can take the Instant stop/abuse a lot better then a TT heli can.
Can you do one with a spectrum esc with a brain2. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the throttle to calibrate with the brain.
At the 21min mark you are testing the servo travel so they dont hit and the blades are on with the battery plugged in. As a first time heli pilot, im a bit nervous about this step.
Yes the battery is plugged in, the radio is on hold mode. Of course anything can happen and the Heli can spool up. Blades have to be on to set pitch and travel. If you are nervous about the Heli spooling up you could always unplug the motor wires or loosen the motor up and separate the pinion from the main gear.
So why are we not setting the pitch to +-100 even though the instructions say to do so? I did find that when I set the pitch channel as per the instructions I had way too much collective and I can not reduce it anymore in the setup wizard the same goes for roll and the least amount of pitch I can reduce it to is 17.5
No, there is no need to set the travel in the software to +/- 100%. You want to start at +/-100 in your radio and then set your pitch in the wizard menu to positive 13.5 or 12 witch ever you like.then use your radio travel to get the same equal negative pitch.
Just see this did you change more in advanced menu ? like to get your file if that ok
If someone has an NX6 transmitter, would rescue be on Aux2? The NX6 actually has a 7th channel. In channel assign, 1 is throttle, 2 is aileron, 3 is elevator, 4 is rudder, 5 is GEAR, 6 is Aux 1/pitch, and 7 is Aux for what you need to assign to. Figure this would be for the rescue?
So you need 8ch to take full advantage of the iKon. CH5 “Gear” is used for tail gain. AUX 1 (7th channel) is for flight modes in the iKon and AUX 2 (8th channel is rescue) now, you can do some remapping in the iKon under Advanced menus and not use the flight mode and use AUX1 as Rescue or Auto level.
Thank you. That may make my V Controller decision easier. Lol. When I got the NX6, it was with a Fusion 360 because I didn't know who deep I wanted to get into the hobby again. Lol
@@AllanG1914 so far I’m very impressed with the radio. I wish I could get more Vbars so I could get some more helis on it but, I’m going to be making full videos on it soon and so,e compensation videos. But I will say, it’s a million times better then a NX6/NX8/NX10. In my opinion the NX radios are way over priced for what you get. it’s also really nice on the Vcontrol/VBAR that everything you need is on the radio, no satellites, no extra stuff. Just bind it and setup all from the radio.
Got my Sab goblin setup flys great but my tail bobs up and down. What u think the issue is. Have a ikon flybarless system.
Tail up and down is usually a sign of cyclic wobble. Does it do it in all head speeds? What head speed are you running? What SAB?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Sab 500 and head speed is 2400 to 2600.
@@johnbess7320 OK that’s definitely great head speed for that helicopter. I would start by lowering cyclic Gain
I have accurc, and I have played around with cyclic agility on the flybarless in the sim. How can I convert the amount of deg/s I use in the sim, to the setup on the brain 2? (I like 350 deg/s)
Rotation speed? You do that in the advanced menus. You can say how fast you like cyclic as well as tail for each mode.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 1750-1900-2100 rpm, this is on a Goblin Kraken 700.
@@lassepettersen8298 yes that is head speed, if you want 350deg/s go into Advance menus and adjust it till you were liking.
Jeff in the Brain2 software what if my servos are not in the list torq 1208
you just manually, select the frequency.
I’m able to follow the video, there’s no gyro for my tail however, everything this normal in the heli and the same in the video, with the exception of in transmitter setup heading lock is red and not checked and I can’t change that
You have to select gyro in the radio and then add your percentage. If you don’t then the iKon won’t see it. What radio?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 nx6
@@westhobbiesrc8051 what percent would you recommend for someone getting into 3d, learning TikTok’s and inverted flight
Do you know in auto level mode how to set it to level once your on a flat surface?
You use a bubble level, make sure the model is level then click auto level.
When setting up ikon/brain.. the servo we need tofollow ikon setup diagram or align manual book diagram? Please help
You need to follow the set up menu in the ikon/brain not the align menu book. The Align servo setup is for Microbeast/beastX
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thanks, your video helped me a lot to setup my 500xt
@@jeyaprakashvijian4944 you’re welcome! I’m glad it helped you!
I wonder if IKON2 light had to be on..??.. Is it Red or Green when plugged into my Laptop Computer..??..
Beyond for what? If I remember right it’s a flashing red light when hooked up to the computer. Or it’s a back-and-forth red light
Bro I fallow this video but I have 2 problems the first one is my heli spins when is in normal mode with out doing nothing in the transmitter and second my tail in hold mode move normal right and left but when I go to normal mode the tail moved to right and I have to moved the rud to left and stock means that the tail don't move like right and left stick in right and when I move to the left stick to left not back and forth like when is in hold mode the servo comeback from right and left but not in normal mode can someone help me please
What do you mean spins? When you apply power? Make sure your tail direction is correct. When you spend your main rotor which is clockwise your tail spins counterclockwise. Are you talking about at Steve’s One Direction or the other when you let off of the stick and does not return to center? That is normal.
Where did you get the usb extension on the back of the Ikon?
HeliDirect sells them, it’s made by MSH. Remote USB plug
Hello. Doest IKON 2 has tandem rotor configuration?
I’m honestly not sure. never messed with it.
My throttle is reversed and as soon as I hit page 8 it comes on and goes full bore and I have to pull the USB to stop it!
I have tried reversing the throttle in the TX and It works fine but WHY is page 8 making the throttle go crazy?! I can't figure this out. I am on day 2 of trying to setup this gyro and man o man it's been hard. This is not plug and play. It's plug and reverse things.
I want to know WHY the brain2 has suddenly reversed the throttle sticks input. This was on a flying 330s with a 6250 and this was not an issue.
All this stuff just to add retracts!!!!!
No idea, never seen that. I’ve setup hundreds of them and never had a problem. Are you I’m hold mode while setting up?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 nope, hold is off. I tried hold mode to shut it off and it doesn't turn the throttle off. I have to physically pull the USB to stop it. Why the USB is controlling the ESC I don't know. I had it all good with the throttle reversed, but the tx page is showing the inputs backwards, so it thinks I'm full bore when I get to page 8 and goes crazy.
There is no way to reverse the throttle - ESC commands in the brain2 app. Somehow the brain2 made the ESC flip controls.
@@SpeedyTube83 I would delete the radio file and Brain file and start over. You have something messed up. Always set the heli up in hold mode. Never out of hold.
I got it working! Had to pick a different orientation for the FBL than what it is, reversed throttle at the end screen, and used channel 5 for a servo for retracts and Ltrim for gyro gain. Man I man that was a long day diaging!
I can't get my throttle to be +100 and -100 on my ix14.
In the iKon or the radio? It’s okay if it’s not -100-+100
@@westhobbiesrc8051 In my radio, I'm at 150 on both, and on the brain software, it doesn't show the negative at -100, it shows only -42.
Hey will the file work for my Sab goblin 500?
The saved configuration file? I don’t think so but this set up video is the same for all helicopters you might just have to change something here or there
@@westhobbiesrc8051 so I have a Sab goblin 500 what’s a good pitch curve for a beginner. I flew helis back in the day like raptor 50 nexus 30 and xcell helis I’m just not use to the new stuff. Thanks in advance.
@@johnbess7320 you will like the goblin 500! A really great helicopter flies fantastic. I would recommend a normal mode pitch curve of 30-40-50-75-100 and for stunt one and two linear 0-25-50-75-100 same with hold. I would start with +/- 12 degrees of cyclic pitch. I’m actually in the process of rebuilding a nexus 30 right now LOL
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Nexus 30 is a great heli for its time. They are going for crazy money right now on eBay. I’ll start with those pitch curves! Thanks happy flying. Let me know how things work out. You should do a vid on the nexus.
@@johnbess7320 videos on the nexus are in the works! Unfortunately my main gear is missing a few teeth and my pitch slider is broken. So I’m making. Rebuild/Restore video and showing how to make molds and pour your own gears and parts! You can’t find a main gear anywhere! I’ve been looking for months now and when I do find one they want $100 plus and I’m not paying that. The plastic gets old and brittle in the teeth just sheer off.
If your going to make a setup video show and claim it is start to finish show the damn governor. Ive gone through every video I can find to setup the Brain FBL and no one shows the governor setup.
I have multiple iKon setup videos and show the governor.m