KnifeCenter FAQ #87: How To Choose The Right Steel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- Get ready, because we’re diving into just what to look for in your choice of blade steel. Plus, we talk the difference between onlays, inlays and scales, plus what makes a more durable pocket clip. And apart from the whip and hat, what does Indiana Jones carry as an EDC?
For more in-depth research on blade steels, visit knifesteelnerds.com/
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0:00 Intro
0:53 Choosing the Right Blade Steel for the Job
12:54 Onlays, Inlays and Scales, Plus Thumb Openings
15:33 Searching for a More Durable Pocket Clip
16:32 Eastern VS Western Tantos
17:09 The Indiana Jones Pocket Knife
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Almost all steels work well for most uses. From 5cr15 and 420j all the way up to the new "super steels". The most important? Heat treat, after that? Edge geometry. 50 year knife enthusiast, military, trail guide, chef and sharpening business owner.
5cr and 420j aren’t gonna work for anything that isn’t slicing something super soft, even carving wood or cutting cardboard can either chip or dull those steels in 10 cuts or less
@mordi2537 that's absurd. 5cr is z going to be garbage no matter how you heat treat it or sharpen it.
420hc buck knife for a while, did notice having to strop a few times a week. Aus8 and 8cr now so far 1 week still sharp
154CM will always be my ‘general use’ fave.
Great all around steel and it sharpens back up easy.
Hard to beat a properly heat treated 154CM !
So, where do you have D2, 14C28N, and AUS-8 on your list? Have you any experience with the new Magnacut?
@@geico1975 I like AUS8. You can get it pretty sharp easily, but it fades fast. I like 14/28 for fine cutting with thinner blades, not great for hard use. I’m burnt on D2. It’s hard to sharpen and I can’t get a gritty edge on it. I’m an outdoors/garden user. My Gerber Gator shreds.
Still for a d2
Here's my thought on it: our fathers and grandfathers would carry simple knives with basic steels for years and years. Sure, they'd get sharpened down and might end up a lot smaller than when they started, but they still did the job.
Now, our steels are much better, and even more basic metals like D2 are better than what was available to our fathers and grandfathers. It's easy to get "lost in the weeds" obsessing over metal comparisons, but the reality is that most modern knives will have very good steel, and as long as you take care of them will last you for years.
Anyone worth their salt needing a knife would maintain an edge no matter the steel. It’s easy to take for granted anything and everything we have available nowadays. 440 used to be a very high performance steel back in the day. And John K, there is no use in belittling others for their steel or knife company of choice
@@johnkurkiewiczjr.3741 Damn Bro who shit in your breakfast this morning
Sort of. I have some knives that belonged to my grandfather, and their edges are so badly worn from decades of use and sharpening that their cutting edges went from convex to concave. Steel is important, but so is blade design, heat treatment, and grind. And that's just on the manufacturer's end - the way you use and sharpen the knife are also factors in determining which steel is right for your application.
D2 was definitely available to your fathers and grandfathers.
I love the 14c, AEB-L, and nitro-v range of steels. They are just incredibly balanced. Love 3v, s35, 80crv2 and a2
I love these episodes. Get to see so many different and interesting knives I may not have known about. I enjoy the drill downs and off topic info equally
My Benchmade has 154CM. Been a great blade for my needs. Keeps and edge, easy to re-sharpen.
I wasn't even aware of that Boker Mono there at the end. That is one hell of stag handle, and with the German made Boker quality and a CPM-Cruwear blade...If I had that kinda money to drop on a traditional (or any knife for that matter) I think that would be the classic style slip joint in my rotation. I can just imagine being able to pass that down to the next generation (probably my nephew since I have no kids, but who knows...that might still happen too) Great episode! You guys have truly made the greatest knife distributor channel in the world, and I would go as far as saying the best knife channel period. There are knife TH-camrs out there doing an incredible job, but I don't think any of them consistently offer content that brings me as much pleasure as KnifeCenter. I simply cannot imagine my life without these videos to look forward to. Thank You.
Very kind words Matthew, thank you! -DCA/Thomas/Seth30V
When Thomas puts up the weeds graphic we know the really good stuff is coming!
That. Was. Great! Congrats on being a Father now, and good explaining of the when's & why's of blade steels👍
Loved the q & a!!
Thanks uncle David ! I love it when Thomas has you growing in the weeds ! Fantastic !
Great video for explaining the difference in steel and edge retention and toughness.
Hi DCA! Good to hear your voice back to normal! For the record, I am totally on board with an hour+ knife steel lecture. Just think of all the knives you could pull from the warehouse for that one!
BTW kind of cool seeing the layout on the table and already having almost half the knives you have laid out. Makes life easier on my wallet, especially since I know of a couple drops coming next week that aren't going to be cheap on my knife budget lol.
Very helpful video! I’ve found I love S35VN and S45VN the satin finishes make them beautiful and razor sharp!
Elmax, S45VN and 3V are my overall favorites. Once MagnaCut becomes more available, it may slip in there, but edge retention isn't a big one for me, I enjoy maintaining my knives, and honestly anything higher on the quality spectrum than your lower alphabet soups holds an edge a pretty long time. I currently have 1 knife in MagnaCut, and haven't had to sharpen it yet so it's still on a factory edge. I'll see how it feels after I put my first edge on it.
Also, to me, I'd rather have a knife that dulls slightly faster than a knife that breaks or chips and you have to worry about. That's one of the reasons I'm personally not a huge fan of the full flat D2/M390 trend. I would much prefer something with a little more meat behind the edge with those steels, but I also use my knives, not a single one of them is a safe queen. All of them from my CRKs to Shiro's to midtech ADVs, they get carried and used.
Have you tried CruWear yet? It's better for small knives than 3V IMO.
You know what DCA, this comment has nothing to do with knives. I've had a trying day and your voice is about the ONLY voice I can handle today. Thanks bro. Oh yeah, cool video. Aloha. 🤙😎
I like VG10... I used to be obsessed with edge retantion (still am a bit), but once I got better at sharpening the less steel mattered to me. These days I am more picky with handle materials. E.g. rather have a "titanium handle + VG10" knife than a "plastic handle + 20CV"
Then you'd like N690 because it is German VG10, same damn stuff. Other steels are like that, you mentioned 20CV, M390 and CTS 204P basically all the same thing. 14C28N and Nitro-V are pretty much the same so if the knife is cheaper as one than the other get that.
@@MountainFisher Oh, I do... I just mentioned VG-10, because I was fiddling with my Böker Plus Mini Kwaiken. Boker has quite many titanium handeled VG-10 knives. There was a time, when anything less than 20CV would have been a deal breaker but I gotten "wiser".
E.g. I take a James Brand Carter (G-10 / VG-10) over a Benchmade Bugout* (Plastic / S30V). Same price, similar neutral design, I prefere the better handle over the better steel (and better is really quite relative)**.
*I still like the Bugout, just not with it's default handles.
** Deka would of course be a better choice, but I really don't like the design (way too busy), and that matters to me too.
@@etherealicer I understand. I only bought the small Spyderco Dragonfly with K390 for cutting leather and I put a larger handle on it so it fills my hand. Reason is I'm tired of sharpening all the time with my hand forged round knife made of 52100 I heat treated to 63.4 HRC, but leather wears out buffed edges and I'm always stropping the blade.
I got the Dragonfly for long straight cuts in 11-13 ounce (12 oz or 3/16ths) skirting leather to make heavy duty belts to carve and stamp without having to sew on a back liner as I don't have a leather sewing machine. The strap cutter doesn't do well on veg tan leather that thick too so I hand cut it.
@@MountainFisher Yeah, I get that (I have a Sandrin for my cardboard-shredding tasks). Makes me kinda curious how well a non-ferrous material would work on leather.
That said, I think overall, there is too much emphasis on the blade steel. And as you noted, if you really use your knife that much, the handle becomes even more important.
@@etherealicer I made knives from 1992 until 2017. For 10 years I was the heat treater for a machine shop that did a lot of custom projects. I'm an engineer and biologist/organic chemist and worked in aerospace for 30 years and except for my first degree Rockwell and Garrett AiResearch paid for my other degrees.
I mentioned to the boss at the time that I made knives and he asked if I did D2, I said it's my top blade steel. Next thing I find myself in charge of doing most of the heat treating among my other duties. I had only ever heat treated 01, 1080, 440C and D2. Well they did a lot of D2, mainly for paper cutting machines.
A lot of the carbon steel alloys also have very similar heat treats, so they were not a problem. I only had to do it 3 or 4 times a month, but sometimes I got something wholly new to me type of metals. Metals like aluminum bronze and titanium alloys, brass, aluminum, S5, 1150, etc, etc,
Luckily I had a good relationship with Hinderliter Heat Treat in OKC, OK and they were more than happy to help me when I told them I'd send them all the jobs that wouldn't fit in our oven (most jobs). I learned a lot more about metallurgy than I had before. I made some HRC59-61 axe heads out of S5 as it is the toughest steel I've ever seen. The hammers on trip hammers are made from S5 quite often. It is an old steel, been around for decades and capable of high hardness. Cincinnati Tool Steel still sells it.
cintool.com/page/Shock-Resisting
I dig my S30VN, keeps an edge a long time and has more than enough strength for my farm tasks! Although the 1095 HC from ESSE holds a special, oft sharpened place in my heart.
Great job covering that blade steel segment. I suppose the one thing you could have added in generalities is bang for buck. In other words, does the performance between the exotic or pace-setter steels and the tried and true 10XX high carbons, and 4XX-SS's, etc., really justify the huge price difference. For me the answer is no, but some collectors just want the latest and greatest, which is fine too. Like my car dealer dad used to say, there's an ass for every seat, and a seat for every ass.
Honest I don't think he did a particularly good job at answering the question. Yeah, it's a very wide topic to cover, but he got into the weeds with some aspects of it that. Such as the blade shape that was a waste of our time, which wasn't asked and a waste of our time. He barely addressed the common steels except noting the 1095 and such. I think the guy was looking for, hey how what are the differences from common stuff like 1095 to D2 to S30V.
@@Swearengen1980 I dunno, I think the point that blade geometry can mitigate certain weaknesses of a steel is a valid point to consider, but yeah its such a huge topic to cover there's no way to even cover all the "common" steels in a short segment.
Great video, I received my d2 boker plus from you guys and after a little practice it’s got a shaving edge and seems to hold a good edge this steel loves a leather strop.Great knife even though this one is an import!
The question of the pocket clips hits home. I've had a ZT 452cf for years and have bent the clip nearly 90° 3 or 4 times and was able to not only bend it back in place but also adjust the shape a bit to prevent it from catching on things.
About 8 months ago I got a Hogue X5. The first time I snagged it on a strap the clip broke off near the attachment screws. There is no fixing this.
Both knives are at similar price points so I expected similar quality. Nope. The worst part is nobody evaluates clips in knife reviews other than tip up or down. I really wish clips were given more attention. If you buy a $200 to $300 knife the clip shouldn't snap like a piece if cast pot metal. I shouldn't have to but after market clips, and by no means do I want to put it in a sheath.
I know your first question took time to answer, but I would love to see you do a whole episode on clips, or at least spend some more time on this. While the milled clip you showed seems a good solution there are other options and factors that can be considered. And maybe you could mass email all of your suppliers and tell them to make good clips? Ok maybe not, but I do feel this is an important issue that manufacturers need to address across the board but in most cases treat as an after thought.
Keep up the good work. I love these videos and the new this week vids.
Clips and sheaths are the number one deal breaker for me. There's thousands of great knives but very few good carry mechanisms. I'm currently waiting on a modder to install a clip for me on my new knife.
Hi David (and Seth, if that helps),
My first question was answered brilliantly, so here I go again! Hope you can help me out with another one similar to my 1st question:
I'm looking for a folding knife, with the following features:
1) Flipper (that becomes a "guard")
2) Axis, Button or Similar Cross-Bar Lock (**MUST** be bank-vault, bomb-proof strong)
3) Thumb Hole, either oval or round, doesn't matter, but **MUST** have it...
4) About 3" or more Blade Length
5) Pointy, not Wharncliffe, but needs some belly.
6) Optional, but would be game-winning: Full Flat Grind, finger choil, assist or bearings in the pivot and Deep Carry Pocket Clip
7) See if you can recommend me a budget and a premium version each.
Thanks so much!
Loved the reverse tanto bit.
my usage is generally not much more than zipping open a box or trimming elecrical wire or cutting some string ,so for me 8cr13mov is just fine , it gets crazy sharp and is very easy to sharpen all i need to do is touch up my edge every couple of days on a cutlery steel ,and its super sharp again. i really dont have to do a full resharpen very often. ...i like it!
Well done, to the point and great info.
Not a huge benchmade fan but the mini Adamas is a fantastic knife. Definitely a top 5 knife to come out in recent years imo.
It was so much easier to decide back in the days, when there were not so many choices😁
Yes, im steel a d2 guy
I am excited to see your Swaggs exclusive as I found out about the knife about a month ago through your videos. I discovered Kizer’s Friday fan club and the special drops they had and I was hoping for a fat carbon version for under $130.
Was a fat carbon version something you’d considered when speccing your exclusive? What price premium and other challenges does this material bring? Are particular colors more difficult to achieve than others (such as purple fat carbon vs orange fat carbon)?
Your are my favorite source for knife content and I appreciate being able to tune in multiple times a week.
Great video sir. I'm an older gentleman, i remember when aus8 came out and alls the praise about it. lol
Pretty good introduction to a very large subject. It would take a full college course-one semester of 3hr lectures twice a week-to really cover the steels, blade geometry, edge types, etc. I realized a while back that the more I learn about knife steels the less I know. Sharpening is something else that is a continuous learning experience that includes learning from others and actual experience.
Magnacut has quickly become my favorite steel. I only have it on one knife (Hogue Deka), but it's become my go-to EDC over my previous favorite, a 20CV Bugout.
it's the 'super' best till the new one comes out with more... ... .01V and 0.3N !!! Peace and good cutting/slicing.
My Favorite is "Aogami Super Blue" so far. Awesome Steel!
I have been impressed by the tungsten carbide with cobalt used in Sandrin Knives' blades. Of course it isn't steel. I also like CPM REX 45, which is also significantly high in cobalt. I find these materials great for cutting fibrous material, avoiding edge encounters with metal or stone. I've never tried sharpening the tungsten carbide, but the CPM REX 45 takes a fantastic edge with diamond stones.
That Sandrin knife is going to be a nightmare to sharpen. Check out Cedric and Ada Outdoors channel, he has some videos on various attempts to sharpen his Sandrin. As I recall diamond stones didn't make much of an impact.
A razorblade folder with company blades is the answer for everything at work.
Outstanding Video!. And Condadalations' on your new arrival Dad.lol. All Five Thumbs Up 👍👍👍👍👍!.
I have multiple steels on my knives and all different steels to lol. I got m390, 1095, s30v, d2, and s45vn. M390 is great for me but I’m honestly loving the s45vn on my spyderco pm2! Good edge retention but also not super hard to sharpen and it’s stainless as well, it’s a great steel for me anyways. I also love 1095 on my fixed blades. It’s a carbon steel and can rust but where I live in Pennsylvania I don’t need to worry to much unless I go swimming with it lol witch I have but if I dry it off when I’m done and oil it that night, I’ve had no problems at all. I really want to try some cruwear steel soon to, maybe not on a pm2 bc I already have one but maybe a mini Adamas bc I’ve seen some sweet aftermarket scales for them in a few places.
Congrats on 200k subs!
Well done, excellent info!
How about a FAQ on heat treatment which can be hit or miss, and how buyers can get a better handle on where to go for those makers that have good track records for consistency?
Understand this may be a tricky question to answer.
As a hunter I like a moderately hard simple S/S thats holds an edge ok but i can touch it up in the field easy enough. Im loving the sandvic steel on my latest Joker aguilla. Breaks down a deer with a whip up on the chefs steel half way.
Hey DCA, can you recommend a good non locking working knife, similar to the ukpk and the kizer zipslip with the finger choil ?
Congrats on being a new dad!
Hi DCA and Thomas!
I am trying to find a bushcrafty folding knife with a decent wood saw attached to it. Does such a pocketable combo even exist, or should I just go with a fixed blade knife and separate foldable saw instead?
Thank you DCA👍👍🤠🤠
good call on the m4 at 9:46.. m4 doesnt get enough love these days.. but its well deserving of some!!
Congrats New Pappa! All the best to the family. What steel did you get/choose for the baby?
What knife would be the best example of a Dad joke?
Also, could you do you video with different KnifeCenter employees giving their favorite Dad joke?
Love what you guys are doing, thank you for the all the amazing work!
Hello, friends. Could you go into detail about wear resistance vs. toughness and also some of the main ingredients in steel. I'm trying to build a good understanding of what makes what the way that it is. Thanks!
Thank You for answering my question about Cold Steel cancer warning on the package... Now I'm sure those knives are safe and I can use them for food preparation. If I will get cancer, I will let You know... Cheers
Hi DCA, Hi Thomas, what folders would you suggest as a modern whittler that is not a dedicated whittler like the Flexcut. I say modern as I’m referring at modern steels , handle materials and locks. Thanks.
Hey DCA, I want to pick up a new survival knife. I'm looking at the lionsteel m7 or t6. I like the t6, but I don't know if K490 can easily be touched up in the field, where I know I can get a working edge on sleipner. Lionsteel says it's as tough as m4 and can hold an edge like it, but m4 is a pain to sharpen. Can you help me out?
Hey DCA, what would you recommend as an "office" knife? I just started a job where I am wearing slacks and button ups to a cubicle every day; it's a big change from previously working in a warehouse during college and I have no knives that I feel are appropriate with my setting and what I'm now wearing. I don't really have any preference on blade steel as long as it's at least D2. I've thought about getting the Boker Plus Kansei Matsuno LRF Front Flipper, but was wondering if you have any other suggestions in the $100-$150 price range. Thanks!
The differences in 99% of these steels are so subtle, the average user will never even notice..
Question: I'm currently hesitating on buying a Lionsteel TRE titanium (full grey one). I consider it as an "upgrade" of my Boker Nebula. It is a huge price gap. I really like the CF on the Nebula, but it's a bit too flashy with the anodized aluminum. Is it a good upgrade? Too much (I tend to abuse all my knives)? Is there something I could check as a solid EDC (like them sober look, kinda heavy, and more or less thick) ?
My favorite well-rounded steel for edc/general use is S-35VN.
Also, are button lock knives considered gravity knives?
hi Dylan, i have had 2 knives conviscatied by UK customs that i have ordered from the USA. one was a spyderco smock, the letter stated it was a ' gravity knife ' as it was a button lock, and ' gravity knives ' are illegal in the UK. by definition, they are, but it all depends on the custom officer, or their interpritation of the law.
Hi DCA and crew, I hope you are all doing fine! I was wondering if it is a good idea to trim bushes and hedges with a machete? And if yes, which one would be a good budget option for that task? Thank you!
Thank you for a great episode, once again! You briefly touched on ease of sharpening. I have read so many warnings about D2 being hard to sharpen, and even so, I have had no problem both shaping and sharpening D2 edges with the Work Sharp Precision Adjust system. (I suspect diamond abrasives do the trick here).
Maybe you could say something about which sharpening systems/tools are best for each steel or even blade shape and edge angles?
This is a good topic. For example I hear s30-35-etc.vn steels don't do well with ceramic stones, something to do with types of carbides. High quality diamond is probably the best a around material for every steel as it's the hardest known. Lol. This guy is a salesman, search for videos from a Smith or Metallurgist.
Try the Kershaw clash it has a great wide strong pocket clip .
Yes! I can start this beautiful Saturday with good coffee ☕ and a Knife Center video.hosted by DCA with Thomas producing... 🗡️ 🔪
I really like the Protech Godson but it's out of my budget. Any recommendations? Thanks
Hey DCA, I’m looking for a seax style knife and wondering why it’s not a more popular style. (Not a reverse tanto joke) Any thoughts or recommendations?
absolutely love your videos. wait for them twice a week. wish I could order knives from you. had a very bad and confusing experience last time I tried to order 2 pena knives. I live in Canada and have a US credit card but I was still unable to order the knives even though I ordered 2 knives weeks before with the same card. so disappointing
I like the idea of cpm cruwear. I don't mind patina and I like acid etches. Would an acid etch actually make it less likely to rust in a humid environment if I cleaned it regularly? Would an acid etch mean I can't use it for food prep? If I like very acute edges which hardnesses/toughnesses would be best?
Hey DCA. As I fill out my knife collection, I notice there are only so many patterns of knife to go round. When I think of the Zancudo, I already have a RAT 2. I want to add breadth to my collection. Are there any knives that are iconic to just one manufacturer? Knives like the Spyerco Delica.
I was on your website last week. Under new items, I saw 2 or 3 new short swords. Think they were either $249 or maybe in the 300 range. No longer see them. Any help?
DCA, another great episode. One thing: a fighting knife should be especially tough. In a life or death situation you cannot afford a broken blade. The steel may be especially tough, or the blade can be thicker to compensate, to achieve the desired toughness of the knife.
That Fox Ryu looks badass.
My favorite all ‘rounder is CPM S30V
For the warehouse could I recommend a good utility knife. Change the blade when it gets dull inexpensive if it gets lost.
Hi DCA, the subject on the steel choice is awesome and absolutly useful, even if the MagnaCut steel seems to have killed it a bit. Could you please do the same, but about the differents grind shapes (Hollow, flat, full-flat, saber, convex, scandi, etc.) ? Which grind for which task ?
Hi David, thomas and/or Seth.. I'm an electrician, I like carrying fine blades like civivi knives. When striping the end of my wire the copper tends to chip my razor blades and I don't wanna go to my bag to strip one wire so i use my edc. What is the best steel for ultra thin bladed knives to keep from chipping, but takes a keen edge. (Maybe not d2). It's for work so not too expensive $75 or so. Thanks
Hey Seth V and DCA. Could you explain how the Spyderco Compression lock is different from a reverse liner lock? Love my PM2, just curious.
Is there an online app that captures this knowledge? I envision a simple list of steels with various characteristics to perhaps something more with tradeoff considerations (like blade length vs toughness). It might be very handy for those wanting to choose but not into metallurgy.
What is a great chefs knife for $100 or less? Preferably with good edge retention. Thanks
After carrying a range of steels I love 154CM and also the other CPM154
Same! My Benchmade griptilian is 154cm and been a great knife.
O wow they actually picked my question. 😁
Great video as always! After discovering this channel, I started being 'into knives' and bought a few already. But I don't need a knife for my work or everyday life (in a city). Are there that many people who buy all of those knives you present for actual purposes, not just collecting. Who are those guys? Carpenters? Farmers? Campers?
Who are those guys? They are guys and gals both. Outdoors people who hunt, fish, hike, camp. It’s also guys and gals who do physical work like carpenters, farmers, well drillers, plumbers, electricians, HVAC, etc…. People like that are almost always on the lookout for a better tool to get jobs done. So they tend to collect knives and other tools as they try different things. Sometimes I’ll buy a knife that I think will be a better tool and discover it’s just not ideal in one way or another. So I go back to my last knife and keep looking. My current knife is a Cold Steel Talwar. My previous was a Cold Steel Voyager XL clip point. I’m still deciding if the Talwar is going to be my go to carry knife. I like my 5 1/2” blade knives. I can do everything with it that I can do with a small blade. But I can’t do everything with a small blade that I can do with a big blade. I do construction type work and I hunt and fish. So yeah, I’ve got a bunch of different fixed blades and folders. Maybe 50 or so.
●And, warehouse people who open LOTS of cardboard boxes; tradesmen who cut and scrape items throughout their day; butchers, chefs, etc.
●Years ago I needed a portable bandsaw for a project. After having it I was surprised by how often I used it. Certain basic tools are like that. After you have it you realize how useful it is for so many things you've been doing. Knives are that way.
I own a landscape, lawncare and snow removal business. I use knives every day for routine tasks as well as situations where I need to get something done and its the only tool I have handy (ie dumb stuff). Do I use every knife I've bought? No. Many of them are collector pieces, many of them just never find their way into my pocket. I usually keep about 5 on my nightstand that are my steady EDC rotation knives. Then I have a tool box I keep the rest in. Certain ones are better for breaking down cardboard for the recycling bin, some are kept for opening mail, then there's a pile I take with me camping, and also the ones I keep in the kitchen for food prep etc.
Just because you live in a city. You still need a knife. It’s a tool not a weapon
Honestly, I think most people just wanna have cool knives and try to come up with reasons why they "need" them. 😄 At least I do...
1. I want you to, how do we adjust the blade of the knife to be placed in the middle of the handle?? Thanks 🙏🌹
What are the top three reverse tonto blades?
Reverse Tonto for life!
What is the correlation between HRC and knife steel for edge retention? Does m390 at 58hrc have better edge retention than 154cm at 60hrc, etc.???
Hi David, could you please suggest a folding tactical knife. Preferred less than 3 inch blade. Thanks in advance.
K390 good luck finding it/ we need more
Hey DCA, what exactly is MOVA-58? I can't seem to find too much info on it, other than it's a stainless steel made in Spain. I really like Joker knives and a few of the other Spanish brands, but I don't have any in this steel.
DCA
You have covered many types of knives, blade steels & potential uses; however, I am a horticulturist & haven’t seen where you refer to this potential knife use &/or type of edc for this profession… Use of a knife in this work is very regular …
I feel that I may be ruining my Benchmade folder with an M390 blade that I am using … So, what more ‘practical’ folder & blade steel would you recommend ??
Cost isn’t necessarily a limiting factor; since it would offer a broader choice spectrum ..
Keep up the good work …
THX for any consider on this issue …
Hey, you guys should do a review on, and let me know what you think of, Oerla fixed blades, not a specific model in particular but some are pretty out there. Kindof a budget brand easily found on Amazon
I'm looking for a modern version of a Viking Seax in a fixed blade, full tang preferred, including a Kydex or plastic sheath if one exists. Are you aware of any any that exist?
Can anybody advise what steel is best for chopper blades please? A convex wood machete whatever.
Hi DCA and Seth and the team, greetings from Czech Republic ;)
I have a question for you. Iam currently looking for my alternative edc which i can carry to city, dog park etc.
It should be very small, with a decent pocket clip, fidgety and possibly under 100 bucks.
I was looking at something like CRKT Squid or Böker plus subcom.
Right now i have a Civivi buttonlock in my pocket, so maybe an idea to show us some nice knive pairings? ;)
Keep up the good work, ahoj!
Can you successfully sharpen a scandy grind with a Ken onion edition work sharp grinder?
Hello ,looking for a dagger style folding or fixed blade knife. Size like Extrema Ratio BD0 R / BD1 R . What intrests me is difrent blade / scale materials ,difrent locking and opening systems. Maby even a episode of this kind of knifes??? Thanks
If I wanted to pick a single super-steel for all uses, I'd choose CPM 3V. It's the ideal big chopper steel, with good edge holding and superb toughness at 59-60 RC. It will also make a fine smaller blade when tempered at 62-63 RC, with excellent edge holding compared to non-stainless tool steels and will still be tougher than most stainless super steels of equal thickness. Where it suffers is in the corrosion resistance category, but there are ways to deal with that. It's kind of expensive, of course, but what isn't lately?
I'd put Cruwear in that category too, depending on needs. A little less toughness but a little better on edge retention, heat treat dependent of course.
Hey DCA im looking for a new knife for bushcraft and edc, I wear a size Xl glove and would like a 5-6 inch blade. I love tactical/hunter looks to knifes that are able change scales. preferably around $100 ish Thanks!
What properties would you look for in a dedicated feathersticking blade?
This may be a redundant question to this episode but would you happen to have a good EDC suggestion for someone who works in a metal shop as a welder fabricator? I cut rope cardboard tapes thick industrial plastics and shrink raps but the problem is that there is almost always metal dust everywhere. One hand use would be preferable and under $250ish.
KnifeAQ team, leaving durability aside, what blade coating is most protectant against corrosion for non stainless steels? Which ones are good against corrosion on stainless steels? I am lead to believe some coatings on stainless steels will bond with chromium making them less stain resistant. Thanks, keep up the great videos.
I love the weeds!
Hello David and Thomas, I need a little help with finding an upgrade for my Sogfari kukri. While I do like it, it could benefit from better steel and a nicer handle. Value is more important than price. It will be earning it's keep so not so expensive that I will cry if it gets hurt.
In what instances would you choose to sharpen a knife only on a course to medium grit stone for a 'toothy' edge rather than breaking out the finer polishing whetstones and strop?
Never...I would reprofile my edge to a steeper angle before halfa**ing it. You want your knife to cut not tear...(unless you are one of those people that like to cut themselves on purpose) in which case a toothy blade cut will heal faster than one from a well sharpened blade. If that's the case I suggest seeking professional help not learning how to make your wounds heal faster
Hi DCA, we already know that your favorite blade shape is nessmuk, and for Thomas, well reverse tanto, of course. But which one does Seth prefers?
What can one do to break a pocket clip? Does he use them to carry knives outside of the pocket and not inside?
I was anticipating "the weeds", but did not expect them so early 🤣🤣🤣
They'll sneak up on ya, for sure
One recommendation, if you could record in a 16:8 ratio, that would be really helpful