You have spoken the unspoken words that shall not be mentioned. You mentioned so many things that I'm guilty of. Especially the grabbing of a lesser quality knife to do a job. Brutally honest video. Way to go! Now I'm going to start using those higher dollar knives for tougher tasks.
This constant changing up of steel composition is a product of the internet and more especially TH-cam. I’m 60 and have seen this SuperSteel hype explode at the same time TH-cam knife channels and instagram and all the rest were growing. People are enticed to buy the latest and greatest. We we were cutting stuff just fine in the 60's, 70's, 80’s and 90's. Now this years “Super Steel” will be old news in a few months. Just my opinion. Great video.
My co worker was talking about hunting in sub zero weather and how they brought a big 'ol bag of old fashioned fud knives to field dress and prepare the elk to haul out. From a professional game processor I talked to it's kinda nice sometimes to sharpen once a day or two instead of after every carcase. Using modern diamond sharpening stones go a lot quicker than old oil stones too.
I'm just a knife steel nerd! I've got everything from an Opinel in carbon steel to some of the latest in MagnaCut. I love reading about the variety of steels and their different properties. It's fascinating to me how the content of the steel and the way it's processed and heat-treated results in so many different characteristics.
True true. I'm a nerd and read must of larrin's articles. But I know that at best I'll use his forge heat treating method in basic carbon steel, and the fanciest steel I have is D2 and nitro-V. Moras in 1095 or 12c27m take more beating in a day than most super steels end up seeing in their lifetime. I'd love a MagnaCut to support Larrin and get the best jack of all trades, but I won't get a poor knife with it. If I'm getting a great steel, It's gotta get a good heat treatment, geometry, and be a smaller (useful) fixed blade that can take a beating. Most steels that people hate like 440a-c, 420hc, and even mora 12c27 is down to bring heat treated poorly or too softly or being in shitty knives that make you think the steel is worse. Yeah, mora and opinel could be harder in stainless, but it does the job.
Could not agree more. My grandfathers Old Time 8OT with 1095 blades has seen more hard work than my high end blade ever will. After 20+ years of him carrying it and me having it since his passing in 2013 it’s still a good knife that will cut whatever I need to cut.
I’ve been thinking about this subject a lot lately. I have a couple of really nice knives that have been pocket princesses for a while. But I came to the realization that those materials were used so that it can withstand hard use. The hardest things I cut on a regular basis is either wood or large plastic straps that tie pallets together.
To me the most important thing is heat treat with any steel pertaining to its intended use, and it being priced in accordance to its level of performance. In areas that are important to you Such as toughness, stainless, edge retention etc.. or a combination of those traits you get what you pay for generally. The better the heat treat on a piece of steel the easier it's going to be to sharpen it and keep that edge maintained where if it's poorly treated you'll get things like chipping, rolled edges, and overall sub par performance. As far as sharpening goes Higher end steels are relatively easy to sharpen when using the proper stones such as diamond ones and that goes to using the proper tools for a job at hand. Some steels such as 420hc, 440C, and 14C28N can be sharpened easily on whetstone, sandpaper, or even rocks in a pinch where steels like S110V you will struggle on a whetstone because the steel is harder than the stone. In today's sharpening world diamond stones are affordable and can be used on any steel to get sharp along with diamond emulsions for stropping. A well heat treated piece of steel is a pleasure to sharpen vs struggling with a poorly treated one in almost every instance. I personally think that 14C28N is a steel that i would be more than happy with for the rest of my life for outdoor usage and in the kitchen, along with regular carbon steel in my carving knives for woodworking indoors, but having the option for something better such as Magnacut means that i have to sharpen less often is nice as well. Also for those who have no interest in sharpening and send thier knives out for that service will appreciate those higher end steels that have to be sharpened less often. It will mean more money up front but will save you in the long run as maintenance is something every knife needs if it's being used. Sorry for the long comment lol. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
I think what matters more is how well you can sharpen the steel you’re using. I like 440a and 1095 because I can sharpen it fairly easy and get it razor sharp using a variety of items, including wet stones and sandpaper. Preaching to the choir, my friend. BTW… Most of my packages that get opened are from eBay or SMKW. I rarely buy from Amazon. I use wire cutters for zip ties right tool for the right job. And finally, I use an OTF for cutting boxes. Yes, it’s a box cutter with a replaceable razor blade.
Thanks for watching T! We have sharpened knives on everything from the newest and best WorkSharp to coffee cups and it is all about being able to use and maintain your tools
Yup. Right on all points. I have a couple of premium (okay, almost premium) knives, and I’ve seldom used them. What have a used the most? A tiny knife with VG-10 steel. It does more than 95% of everything I need a knife for. But my premium knives? Mostly I admire them. And when I need to break down a bunch of boxes? I reach for a box-cutter with replaceable blades.
Basically I second your thoughts. When it comes to sharpening, I like the differences in how the edge strops to a sharp edge. Celery root can be pretty tough as well as sweet potato. Edge geometry in the short run provides a significant difference in performance. Elmax, 15V and S45VN are my current favorites for different tasks. Cheers from Germany 🍻
For me, steel doesn't really matter. If I'm going to clear my property, I'll take the right tool for the right job. So it's just for the value of collection. If the knife speaks to me...I want it! Thanks TC!
💯 To your point… I live in a neighborhood, work in an office, and carry M390 to cut Amazon boxes and rope because of its edge retention and corrosion resistance. I also choose to drive my kids to school over paved roads in a Jeep Grand Cherokee because of its exceptional 4x4 capability. 🤣 Murica! Blade steel is just one little piece of what makes our crazy obsession with knives so beautiful.
Finally someone spitting some truth. My favorite steel is properly heat treated 420 J2. Knife snobs can laugh, but this steel and 420 HC has served me well for decades...
might be my most used kitchen knife steel, don't really need too frequent sharpening and it's easy to just steelrod it. but i have one knife that doesn't really hold an edge at all that might have it so it's also my worst steel.
I’m a tradesman, I use my 940 osbourne to score drywall, cut tyvex, trim tape, I use a spiderco dragonfly in my other pocket for boxes and mail. I bought my osbourne to work, not sit on a shelf.
I’m a forklift mechanic by trade and most of the time, my knife is used to open parts boxes, straps and plastic bags. Sure I have the occasional odd ball thing to cut but I’m mostly cutting cardboard and plastic. I have used S30V, SPY27, CTS BD1N, 20CV, D2, and bucks 420HC. After using those steels, D2 and S30V stood up the best. S30V is my favorite steel because it holds an edge very well after A LOT of cutting, and it’s fairly easy to sharpen. In the woods, though, I prefer 420HC from Buck. I can whittle and carve wood, process game, and do whatever I need to without worrying about edge damage. I can also bring the edge back to life with just a few passes on my strop or ceramic stone. Of course, I always have a SAK with me at all times and if the blades get dull, they’re super easy to bring back to screaming sharp.
I hope you have your armored jockstrap on after this one. That said, I've dressed enough deer with 440C to fill a boxcar but i kept a honesteel in my pocket and used it regularly. ATS 34 and D2 were a Godsend. I haven't used my skinners in quite a while, but I suspect that i could dress several deer with my premium blades without touching up the edge.
Totally agree. Last thing I worry about is what steel the blade is. I also carry a beater knife that I'll probably go to before I pull out one of my nicer knives.
The alternate knife is really the only knife you need. When I started truly assessing what I need, I’ve carried the mossy oak folding utility knife and I love it. I love traditional slip joints but for the money and intended use, I’m a Rough Ryder man all day long and mainly the whittler pattern, but the folding utility knife and a pack of blades is what you need.
We all have to start at the beginning and will mess up from time to time. There are some steels that we even have trouble with so finding ones you like and can work with can be key 👍
Generally speaking. The harder the steel. The longer it can retain its edge, but it also gets harder to resharpen. Some steels are so hard you almost have to use a diamond sharpener to even sharpen it.
TC. I use wire snips for zip ties, for Amazon pkgs.I use my box cutter with replaceable razor blades, I do like LN 200 or Vanax for my out door folders in case I leave them outside for the night camping or cleaning trout. I do admit I have some Queen folders and fixed blades. See ya TC
The way I like to weigh my options or what I like to call my perfect balance is as follows (how much it matters ratio😂: 25%- type of steel vs its purpose 25% - grip type and size 25% - Deployment type (I'm all fixed blade) 25% - Value versus expected longevity I weigh these four categories out before I buy a knife, and I've come to the conclusion there's only a handful of value steals I would buy but I always end up coming back to 14C28N sandvik stainless steel... And for a higher end steal, well I'm still debating on that but right now Elmax has been up there for some years now ( fell in love with it with the giant mouse fix blade I got years ago)... Anyways there's my two cents on the subject😂.. Have a great day y'all 😎✌️
I agree with what you said in your video %100. I definitely use mine for Amazon packages and some of my knives for cutting food on a camping trip and flipper knives I sit and fidget with them. Most of all I just like to open my knife keeper box and just enjoy looking at the beauty of the knife.
My edc is used for all kinds of stuff. Opening and breaking down boxes, opening plastic bags, to cutting string or rope, to cleaning game. My current favorites are 14c28n, D2, & cpm 154.
I think the steel is very important. If you use your knife a lot like I do, the hardness really comes into play, because it cuts whatever you throw at it and doesn't need constant sharpening. Example, I was up on a ladder recently trying to adjust a security mirror. The person who put it up used steel "piano" wire and ran it back and forth to get the mirror set. I tried to change it and the whole contraption started coming down. I needed to cut the wire quickly, so I pulled out my hogue a01-ms, deployed it with one hand while I was holding the mirror with the other, and cut through the steel cable with ease. Didn't even dent my csm-154 blade.
destroyed the edge on my sanremnu 710 on black floor striping pad. I cut up the big disc to do the edges of the floor and remembered that there are bits of carbide in there. Dull as a butter knife when i was done, but I was shocked that the coating held up without deep scratching. it took hard work to reprofile. I still use it today
I couldn’t agree more! My favorite pocket knife has 154cm steel and I couldn’t be happier with it. I’m a outdoors man as well as a truck driver by trade and use it on anything from cutting a sandwich in half to cutting air hose to make a repair if I need to. It’s also my hunting knife I use to skin game with or process a chicken that I raise. It sharpens up well, I just really like it.
Great video and a su jet I've been thinking about for quite a while. My main carry for a long time now has been an Acta Non Verba P100 which is made from N690, which is equivalent to 440C from what I understand and I've never had a probity it.
I always laugh at how people in this community complain about soft heat treats (particularly from Italian makers) when the majority of their use is as you said: breaking down cardboard and cutting open other knife boxes/Amazon packages. It's so easy to jump on bandwagons. It's no fun owning a rad knife and letting it collect dust. Where's the joy in that? I love using my knives. But maybe that's just me 😉 Unless it's a legit collector's item or has sentimental value, I'm gonna enjoy making use of my tools as they were intended. And sometimes I just reach for my box cutter. Use the best tool for the job, don't try to justify your knife's existence! Thanks for a sensible take on this subject, TC! 😎👍👊
Very nicely done TC. We have had this debate with customers for years. What makes Honey Badger Knives Honey Badger Knives is the value proposition. With 8CR13MOV this holds true. There have been many requests for our knives with higher end steels. The moment we do that then the value proposition tanks. My EDC is one of our 8CR13MOV blades. I keep a loaded strop on the kitchen counter and every few days I just give the knife a few passes bringing it back to shaving sharp. Not all 8CR13MOV is made equal - the factory making ours continues to do a great job! Keep up the great work and thanks for the continued support.
I'll look at some of your knives to see what you make. I'm looking for a small to medium fixed blade with a great sheath. That's something that I wish more knife companies would pay more attention to, better sheath and carry options. There are some good knives that I've passed on because the carry options were terrible.
@@douglassmith3901 we have had many requests to produce a budget friendly fixed blade. We are working on a few things but no guarantees! Thanks for the interest.
I carry a tiny Swiss Army knife with nail clippers, nail file, knife, toothpick and tweezers. Then I usually carry a shaman CTS xhp to work. If it's a light duty day, I will carry a s45vn para3 or the all-time greatest budget knife, the civivi sokoke. I enjoy all three steels however the survey is dull by the end of the week. The para3 is dull after a month or 2. The Shaman loses its razor sharp edge after a couple days but then it seems to stay very sharp for a very long time.
Good one you for carrying such a wide range of steels. It really comes down to what you are using the tools for for how long they last and as always maintain and oil them as needed
This is so true! Best honest video I’ve seen in quite a while. I will easily reach for a knife I’ve spent far less money on to do majority tasks then an expensive one. They all get the job done when taken care of. Great video!
My most carried knife is in CTS-BD1. An original Manix LW. Basically a slightly higher performing AUS-8 level steel. Gets scary sharp. I spent an hour last night reprofiling a BM mini crooked river S30V, using 140, 400 & 600 grit diamond. Exhausting
I got into knives after starting to look into new folder since my current one wasn't performing to my standarts. I do in fact do have to cut a bunch of zip ties and do a lot of wire stripping. I've lost about ⅜" on the 440A blade from constant sharpening done (800 grit) and when on field batoning some kindling the liner lock just gave out. That last part is not steel related but the point still stands, the EDC's are meant to be trashed a bit at least, for there is no need for extra thoughness if you are not going to use it hard. I have D2 crossbar lock knife on the way already. Something that will handle my demands hopefully and will not be too devastating to break or loose. The anodized scales will wear nicely too fos some extra flair.
I have some nice knifes but my work horse is my mora companion. Use it daily for food prep, box cutting and packages camping, hiking. Dug in the dirt to cut roots. Its the knife i grab for yard work and house repairs iv taken it to work to cut insulation for aircraft tho it dulled pretty fast. I have a problem with beating up my expesive ones i avoid it and the mora is called to duty. List goes on for the mora and iv only owned it for 3 years i sharpen it by hand and strop it once a week.
S90v is what ive settled on for a folding blade. I cut cardboard, tape, rope, zip ties, straps and foam mainly. That being said i also carry a folding box cutter and use it primarily and save my knife when im cutting less punishing materials, especially after i just spent 30-60 min putting a wicked edge on it the night before lol
I process a lot of tree branches on my property. For that my Becker BK-9 does a great job. For smaller jobs such as opening and collapsing boxes and other packaging I use whichever folder I'm carrying that day. On my nightstand though I have an old Kamp King camping knife for small tasks in my room. Great video.
My heavy duty folders are either the Benchmade mini adamas or Griptilian but my Victorinox works great for opening envelopes and Amazon packages and usually gets used more.
Watched your video months ago and got busy and didn't comment but owning my business working on anything and everything that will go through my doors but 25 plus years in auto body repair and did mostly hard collision repairs. Cutting open boxes, rubbers, bumper covers on wrecks and even body filler. Kershaw is my main edc but I have some cold steel ,CRKT, and a few other knives under 150 bucks but Kershaw is hard to beat in my neck of the woods. I'm fixing to purchase a Work Tuff Gear fixed blade as soon as I make up my mind. 👍👍
My experience is that if I use the knife it gets dull. Whether it's a Swiss Army Knife or Magnacut. Both can start out shaving sharp. But with a little use it no longer shaves, no matter the steel. I've seen all the tests to show what has better edge retention, but I never experience it. So I'm just happy with AUS 8 or better.
Thank you for the video. My father is 70 and inherited an Opinel from his father, it's.... really old. No supersteel, no Magnacut, just plain old carbon steel Opinel still uses today. It gets the job done since decades and still gets used almost daily.
I love my 23$ True folder that I got at the local lumber store and I have zero idea what it's made of. It's gotten everything cut that i've encountered and yes I do sharpen from time to time, so what?
TC speaking truth, I always carry more than one knife…, there’s usually 3 different blades on me for different tasks, and then I have two more under the counter here @ work, it all depends what I’m cutting, I honestly don’t think I could carry just one blade…💯😄
I think it's does matter but true not for most people. None of my knives don't get used I have everything from Gerber mystery steels to s35v and I have sharpened everything in-between. All of my knives have scratches from hard use but I try to choose the right grind/shape for the job. I cut a lot of cardboard and plastic lids for my job and a lot of times razors chip and then I can't cut newspaper paper which I also cut frequently for my job. So actually it's the weakest materials that brings me to my knees because if my knives aren't sharp then I tare the newspaper (I am pressman) then I often have to restart that action or redo something and this is why I am very interested in magnucut and M390 as sometimes my knife dulls in the same day from all the cutting I do
I carry S30v because I like bucks BOS heat treat and that it’s a powder steel made in the USA. Although I am guilty of the alternative knife for harder task but it’s another S30v 110 in G-10 do I can keep my carry one nice so it’s the same steel but different knife. But it also depends on what the knife is for like I have a buck 808 and use it as a machete so I like the fact that it has 5160 a spring steel in it
Yes, I have many premium steel blades, but I carry box cutters for cardboard and my common yard work knife is a partially serrated 3Cr folder, and I have to use it a lot cutting or digging out stubborn fibrous weeds.
Controversial topic but you do raise valid points! Blade geometry also plays a large part on how knives perform and I think ppl tend to forget about that and just go for the blade steel alone..thanks for another entertaining video!
Just want to say, I got a blue collar job and I carry a leatherman wave plus (company supplied) and an also a spyderco para 2 s30v. Cutting ground fabrics in excavation will dull my leatherman 1.5 hours into my shift. Spyderco will be dull within 4 hours. Dragging my blade through the earth will put small chips on S30v. 420HC holds up a lot better. It’s is vastly easier to sharpen the 420 compared to s30v. 420 sharpens like a dream with regular sharpening stones and or rocks on the ground. S30v takes a cheap diamond stone or wet stone to sharpen.
Agree 100%. I dont even usually cut cardboard, just the tape holding it closed. I did have a thought when you mentioned the box cutter. Could u do a video on cool knives with readily available replacement blades? Most of them that are job supplied are chunky. I want a cool one. It will be my primary cutter, but I'll still carry a pocket jewelry one to make me smile and impress my friends! 10:51
Holosun has some nice replaceable blade hunting and edc knives using scalpel type blades. Razor sharp but not strong. For strength, Outdoor Edge has some good stuff, also sharp and you can touch up those replaceable blades a time or two if you want. Gerber has a new line of replaceable blade hunting knives as well that look great but I don’t have one yet. I usually clean and quarter deer and hogs with a Buck Slim Pro Elite but sometimes when I don’t have access to hot water to clean fat off a knife edge the replaceable blade Holosun and Outdoor Edge knives are weight in gold.
Modern life has changed the daily life of a knife from skinning to open boxes…. Not that we are complaining and reminds us we should have mail coming today lol
As long as the heat treatment is right. If they charge alot of money for a knife because it has a premium blade steel, but its not heat treated correctly than your not getting your money's worth for instance they charge 250 or more when they should charge 150 or less because the heat treatment doesn't stand up . A premium steel that is not heat treated to the best if its premium like m390 and other premium steels will still cut good just not as much as it should. If you dont care about steel running soft and you have a lot of money and you would spend a 1000 if you wanted a knife brand bad enough with the knowledge that the blade steel is not what it needs to be thats cool but just know your getting ripped off 😂😂. Good video, brother 👌
I liked this video. I own several budget knives with budget steels and they are perfect for my everyday taks. I have a preference for stainless steels because my city has high humidity. I been carrying my good old RAT 1 with AUS 8 and it works just fine!
I’ve got one with cheap steel all the way up to s30v, s90v,MagnaCut, CPM-D2. They all cut. Well. The D2 is in the mail. Just ordered the Benchmade Claymore OTF from you guys. And I live in Newport, about 25-30 minutes from the store. Lol. How bad is that?
My issue with "lower" quality steel knives is that the QC on them is generally bad. They also tend to use lower quality materials on the handles/scales.
That’s why they are affordable. But the qc part isn’t true. Good budget knifes like civivi for example come better than most of the Spydies or benchmades i got send.
I have collected pocket knives since I was 7, I'm 72 now, I carry an extra knife to loan because a kid pulled out some big staples out of a cardboard box and scratched my blade once. I have some really nice older stag and bone Case, Tree Brand, Browning, Winchester, Remington and other knives that are so nice I won't carry them. When I work in the yard, or shop I carry an old Schrade Old Timer 80T that was over sharpened before I owned it, if I loose it or break it, I won't lose any sleep. I do some whittling and used a old Tree Brand congress pattern, it held an edge a long time in walnut. Also used a stainless Browning stockman, I later got some Two Cherries carving knives that are really nice. I collect old Miller Brothers pocket knives ( 1863-1926 ), they were well made, as were most that were made back then, even Imperial knives (1916)were well made in the old days. I have carried a Colt M 16 K knife on a pocket clip for many years while in law enforcement and after I retired but it is really too big for most of my everyday use. I have a large Pakistan folding knife in my shop I use to get the brass scrap out of rubber electrical plugs, I hit it with a hammer while the plug is in a vise, I wouldn't abuse a good knife that way. I have one Benchmade knife, I would buy more and carry one if they weren't so expensive. Like you said, when it is sharp, you cant' tell the difference, only after long use, that is the test. I have all these pretty knives and won't use most of them. Collecting knives is a disease, but I love it. Thank you for your honesty.
100% agree. That said, knives with premium steel hold their secondary value more, and enthusiasts generally buy with the expectation they will may resell and otherwise rotate the knives in their collection.
Totally agree w ya sir…I don’t buy expensive knives…I clean a few deer a year and normal things around home…I choose knife steels that I can sharpen and I enjoy keeping them sharp…AUS 8/D2/440 etc are my usual choices…with no complaints.
For me I don't care as much about edge retention as I do corrosion resistance. I live in the southeast and use my knives for carving and like to hike a lot. I keep them clean but don't want to worry if I ever forget or miss a spot.
Knife steel count to an extent depending on what you are cutting . There are some really crappy steels out there in the bargain knives that are all many of us can afford. I have a couple of knives reserved for self defense that don't get used for anything else. Any of my edc knives are used for any kind of cutting. Now that I'm retired and disabled I don't do much heavy cutting. When I was a mechanic my knives also served as gasket scrapers.
The highest end steel I’ve had is S30V. In my experience blade geometry and heat treating seem to be the most crucial factors. And of course if you can sharpen to a serviceable edge once it gets dull.
Some hard truths in this video I love it. The only people I hear always talking about the knife steels are the people that sharpen knives for a profession.
I use a knife a lot I work as a rigger and I do lots of tree work those carbon steel knives that case makes or eye brand are the best work knives you can sharpen them and just for what I consider to be a lot of money blade material s35 it still gets dull and it is a job sharpen now as far as stainless goes 420hc is pretty easy in the middle of day when you are working you don't have time to sharpen at night but a carbon steel or 4:20 you can do that very quickly I want to get one with 154cm and see what it is like I wish somebody would make a nice flipper style knife with carbon steel like on the old case trapper
I carry four blades everyday. My sak for the nail clippers. My Leatherman for the pliers. My pocket knife because i don't know why I bother and then my Gerber prybrid. Which gets the most use, then my leatherman blade gets the next most use. I've never used my sak blade. And i rarely use my pocket knife, but i carry one anyways.
Similar to our carry. Fixed blade because it is always a good idea, modern folder because that is what we reach for the most, SAK for all the tools, and a multi-tool for bigger and more tools
I would love to guys do a video on the most confusing question in the knife realm WHAT IS A TACTICAL KNIFE. How do you define a tactical knife beacuse depending on who you ask your going to get a different answer please see this T.C and Greg. LETS MAKE IT SIMPLE TO DEFINE.
Honestly I only focus on the corrosion resistance because I sweat more than most and my knife is always in my pocket. I also look at the blade shape and handle material, but those are due to personal choice. I agree with you on all of this.
My most used knife is a Spyderco Bow River with 8cr13 mov I cut trap n net rope clean n cut fish and game open boxes n broke the tip prying like a fool it mighr not hold an edge like a super steel but in most cases I can strip it back or sharpen it on a river rock in quick order if needed
Hey TC, i’m not sure if you’ll see this but I am new to the knife world and I want to start sharpening my knives, but I don’t know where to begin. What do you recommend using to sharpen my knives? A field sharpener , whetstone, I don’t even know what grit to start off with, do I need multiple different numbered grit?
Hey! Thank you so much for watching, I would honestly recommend going with something like the WorkSharp Precision Adjust Pro, really anything that holds the blade at a consistent angle. Something like that will usually come with various grits, for re-profiling you will need 420 or lower grit, then for a final grit I like 800 or higher and then a strop of some sort. For a lower entry fee you could use something like the Worksharp Field sharpener it just takes a little more care holding a consistent angle but it does provide all the grits you need. From there you can eventually move on to a set of stones for hand sharpening which opens you up to a myriad of possibilities and the addiction sets in.
I carry a hogue in 154cm daily and use it daily I do maintenance and spend alot of time hunting,fishing and the outdoors and carry a buck 110 and a couple of different esees and like others have said the heat treat regardless of steel makes the difference
Blade configuration, decent quality control and the ability to take and hold and edge for a decent amount of time is what matters to me. While to each his own, I will not pay a small fortune for a knife that I'm going to use. That is why I'm a fan of Rough Ryders; I'm a collector of knives, but I also use them....P.S. I would love to see more traditional patterns in VG 10, and maybe 440 C. :)
Couldn't agree with you more. I also chuckle, somewhat, to see the steels that are used in modern folders. Magna Cart is a great choice in a 7in K bar. (Cool knife, by the way.) To my mind, using something like magnet cut in a small folder is like hunting deer with an M2 .50 cal.
Great video TC! I have a wide variety of knives with varying blade steels. When you look back people were handing down knives long before super steels came along. So… if that’s the case and buying lots of knives is a thing what is the purpose of super steels? So, what’s the purpose? I mean I love my super steels but to what avail?
I remember when 154 cm and vg-10 were the supersteels and not that long ago. With every new supersteel comes a super price. I carry a Case trapper because it is easy to open my mail with. 420 j2 and 3cr13 are about the only steels I won't consider. They become dull quickly, in my experience.
I like steels with well balanced properties. I haven't used M390/20CV or S90V and don't plan to. Most of my knives are S30V because $$$Benchmade, and most are stainless. I'm one of those guys who will work an expensive knife for anything: Sheetrock, rope, and even some metal work. Ide rather give up some edge retention for more toughness and I do prefer stainless so I don't have to fuss over it.
I'd say the toughest material my knives see on a daily basis is a ceramic dinner plate. Pottery glazes are basically silica glass and nothing dulls an edge like glass. Serrated steak knives are a direct answer to ceramic plates and how brutal they are on plain edges. My EDC at the moment is 14c28n. It's tough, stainless, easy to sharpen, keeps an edge long enough for most tasks, and is affordable enough for me not to baby it. I grew up with 420, 440, and 1095. They work well within their limitations but more options are not a bad thing. My first D2 knife was a real game changer.
Thanks mucho for straight talk. When much younger i graduated from good pocket knives only occasionally used to a better Buck knife in belt holder do I could be one of the guys. I wore that blade down by sharpening it so much the point became dangerous when closed - but rarely used. Today i use box cutters and utility knives. I dry sharpen them on fine sandpaper. I suspect that the fine knife steel blades are almost all vanity props. If you are off grid living and field dress game and such elemental tasks then such good knives are critical. Not in an urban digity setting. Thanks again for putting the whole issue in context. You are a valuable voice.
You have spoken the unspoken words that shall not be mentioned. You mentioned so many things that I'm guilty of. Especially the grabbing of a lesser quality knife to do a job. Brutally honest video. Way to go! Now I'm going to start using those higher dollar knives for tougher tasks.
This constant changing up of steel composition is a product of the internet and more especially TH-cam. I’m 60 and have seen this SuperSteel hype explode at the same time TH-cam knife channels and instagram and all the rest were growing. People are enticed to buy the latest and greatest. We we were cutting stuff just fine in the 60's, 70's, 80’s and 90's. Now this years “Super Steel” will be old news in a few months. Just my opinion. Great video.
My co worker was talking about hunting in sub zero weather and how they brought a big 'ol bag of old fashioned fud knives to field dress and prepare the elk to haul out.
From a professional game processor I talked to it's kinda nice sometimes to sharpen once a day or two instead of after every carcase. Using modern diamond sharpening stones go a lot quicker than old oil stones too.
I'm just a knife steel nerd! I've got everything from an Opinel in carbon steel to some of the latest in MagnaCut. I love reading about the variety of steels and their different properties. It's fascinating to me how the content of the steel and the way it's processed and heat-treated results in so many different characteristics.
We have a wide range of brands and steels in our personal collections as well so it is always interesting to see what others thoughts are
True true. I'm a nerd and read must of larrin's articles. But I know that at best I'll use his forge heat treating method in basic carbon steel, and the fanciest steel I have is D2 and nitro-V. Moras in 1095 or 12c27m take more beating in a day than most super steels end up seeing in their lifetime. I'd love a MagnaCut to support Larrin and get the best jack of all trades, but I won't get a poor knife with it. If I'm getting a great steel, It's gotta get a good heat treatment, geometry, and be a smaller (useful) fixed blade that can take a beating. Most steels that people hate like 440a-c, 420hc, and even mora 12c27 is down to bring heat treated poorly or too softly or being in shitty knives that make you think the steel is worse.
Yeah, mora and opinel could be harder in stainless, but it does the job.
Could not agree more. My grandfathers Old Time 8OT with 1095 blades has seen more hard work than my high end blade ever will. After 20+ years of him carrying it and me having it since his passing in 2013 it’s still a good knife that will cut whatever I need to cut.
The best knives are the ones that stand the test of time
I could almost argue that heat treating is as important as blade steel!
Agreed.
I must agree.
I can confidently argue that heat treat is more important as steel chemistry
And blade geometry is more important than both.
Amen @@nemo5335
I’ve been thinking about this subject a lot lately. I have a couple of really nice knives that have been pocket princesses for a while. But I came to the realization that those materials were used so that it can withstand hard use. The hardest things I cut on a regular basis is either wood or large plastic straps that tie pallets together.
We have run into a few sneaky straps that hold pallets and wood together that had metal bands in the center so be careful
@@SMKWcom I’ve definitely scraped through those before
This discussion reminds me of the 9mm vs. .45acp argument.
Oh god don’t open that can up 🙄
NATO issued knife steel.. what would it be 😂
@@rjflippo14C28N.
Made by Northern Europeans.
Very reliable and easy to heat treat en masse.
It's totally NATO steel.
To me the most important thing is heat treat with any steel pertaining to its intended use, and it being priced in accordance to its level of performance. In areas that are important to you Such as toughness, stainless, edge retention etc.. or a combination of those traits you get what you pay for generally. The better the heat treat on a piece of steel the easier it's going to be to sharpen it and keep that edge maintained where if it's poorly treated you'll get things like chipping, rolled edges, and overall sub par performance. As far as sharpening goes Higher end steels are relatively easy to sharpen when using the proper stones such as diamond ones and that goes to using the proper tools for a job at hand. Some steels such as 420hc, 440C, and 14C28N can be sharpened easily on whetstone, sandpaper, or even rocks in a pinch where steels like S110V you will struggle on a whetstone because the steel is harder than the stone. In today's sharpening world diamond stones are affordable and can be used on any steel to get sharp along with diamond emulsions for stropping. A well heat treated piece of steel is a pleasure to sharpen vs struggling with a poorly treated one in almost every instance. I personally think that 14C28N is a steel that i would be more than happy with for the rest of my life for outdoor usage and in the kitchen, along with regular carbon steel in my carving knives for woodworking indoors, but having the option for something better such as Magnacut means that i have to sharpen less often is nice as well. Also for those who have no interest in sharpening and send thier knives out for that service will appreciate those higher end steels that have to be sharpened less often. It will mean more money up front but will save you in the long run as maintenance is something every knife needs if it's being used. Sorry for the long comment lol. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
Well said !!
I think what matters more is how well you can sharpen the steel you’re using. I like 440a and 1095 because I can sharpen it fairly easy and get it razor sharp using a variety of items, including wet stones and sandpaper.
Preaching to the choir, my friend.
BTW…
Most of my packages that get opened are from eBay or SMKW. I rarely buy from Amazon.
I use wire cutters for zip ties right tool for the right job.
And finally, I use an OTF for cutting boxes. Yes, it’s a box cutter with a replaceable razor blade.
Thanks for watching T! We have sharpened knives on everything from the newest and best WorkSharp to coffee cups and it is all about being able to use and maintain your tools
@@SMKWcom , yep. I use coffee cups for and ceramic tiles for honing blades.
Yup. Right on all points. I have a couple of premium (okay, almost premium) knives, and I’ve seldom used them. What have a used the most? A tiny knife with VG-10 steel. It does more than 95% of everything I need a knife for. But my premium knives? Mostly I admire them.
And when I need to break down a bunch of boxes? I reach for a box-cutter with replaceable blades.
Absolute facts !!! Thank You 🙏 amazing facts & Points !!! Wholly agree with everything you’ve stated!!! 👍
Thanks for watching Steven!
Basically I second your thoughts. When it comes to sharpening, I like the differences in how the edge strops to a sharp edge. Celery root can be pretty tough as well as sweet potato. Edge geometry in the short run provides a significant difference in performance. Elmax, 15V and S45VN are my current favorites for different tasks. Cheers from Germany 🍻
Thanks for watching and Cheers back!
For me, steel doesn't really matter. If I'm going to clear my property, I'll take the right tool for the right job. So it's just for the value of collection. If the knife speaks to me...I want it! Thanks TC!
Thanks for watching! Right tool for the right job is a great way to look at it
💯
To your point… I live in a neighborhood, work in an office, and carry M390 to cut Amazon boxes and rope because of its edge retention and corrosion resistance. I also choose to drive my kids to school over paved roads in a Jeep Grand Cherokee because of its exceptional 4x4 capability. 🤣 Murica!
Blade steel is just one little piece of what makes our crazy obsession with knives so beautiful.
Finally someone spitting some truth. My favorite steel is properly heat treated 420 J2. Knife snobs can laugh, but this steel and 420 HC has served me well for decades...
That it is your favorite is all that matters 👍
might be my most used kitchen knife steel, don't really need too frequent sharpening and it's easy to just steelrod it.
but i have one knife that doesn't really hold an edge at all that might have it so it's also my worst steel.
I’m a tradesman, I use my 940 osbourne to score drywall, cut tyvex, trim tape, I use a spiderco dragonfly in my other pocket for boxes and mail. I bought my osbourne to work, not sit on a shelf.
A knife that stands up to drywall is a durn good knife
I’m a forklift mechanic by trade and most of the time, my knife is used to open parts boxes, straps and plastic bags. Sure I have the occasional odd ball thing to cut but I’m mostly cutting cardboard and plastic. I have used S30V, SPY27, CTS BD1N, 20CV, D2, and bucks 420HC. After using those steels, D2 and S30V stood up the best. S30V is my favorite steel because it holds an edge very well after A LOT of cutting, and it’s fairly easy to sharpen. In the woods, though, I prefer 420HC from Buck. I can whittle and carve wood, process game, and do whatever I need to without worrying about edge damage. I can also bring the edge back to life with just a few passes on my strop or ceramic stone. Of course, I always have a SAK with me at all times and if the blades get dull, they’re super easy to bring back to screaming sharp.
Great way to look at it and a nice spread of metals!
You've put into words what I've always felt. When I have a messy cutting job, the old beater comes out.
💯
I hope you have your armored jockstrap on after this one. That said, I've dressed enough deer with 440C to fill a boxcar but i kept a honesteel in my pocket and used it regularly. ATS 34 and D2 were a Godsend. I haven't used my skinners in quite a while, but I suspect that i could dress several deer with my premium blades without touching up the edge.
Fall is coming...might be time to sharpen that 440C and hit the woods again Jim
Totally agree. Last thing I worry about is what steel the blade is. I also carry a beater knife that I'll probably go to before I pull out one of my nicer knives.
We usually have more than one on us so depends what the task is which one we are going to pull
The alternate knife is really the only knife you need. When I started truly assessing what I need, I’ve carried the mossy oak folding utility knife and I love it. I love traditional slip joints but for the money and intended use, I’m a Rough Ryder man all day long and mainly the whittler pattern, but the folding utility knife and a pack of blades is what you need.
I think some people secretly are afraid to sharpen or don’t know how, so they opt for knives with superb edge retention instead.
We all have to start at the beginning and will mess up from time to time. There are some steels that we even have trouble with so finding ones you like and can work with can be key 👍
I'm guilty of this.
Generally speaking. The harder the steel. The longer it can retain its edge, but it also gets harder to resharpen. Some steels are so hard you almost have to use a diamond sharpener to even sharpen it.
Maybe opening battery package by cutting thick clear plastic covering is my typical hardest cutting job.
Thanks for watching Bob!
And most dangerous
TC. I use wire snips for zip ties, for Amazon pkgs.I use my box cutter with replaceable razor blades, I do like LN 200 or Vanax for my out door folders in case I leave them outside for the night camping or cleaning trout. I do admit I have some Queen folders and fixed blades. See ya TC
Thanks for watching and good on you for using the right tools for the right job
The way I like to weigh my options or what I like to call my perfect balance is as follows (how much it matters ratio😂:
25%- type of steel vs its purpose
25% - grip type and size
25% - Deployment type (I'm all fixed blade)
25% - Value versus expected longevity
I weigh these four categories out before I buy a knife, and I've come to the conclusion there's only a handful of value steals I would buy but I always end up coming back to 14C28N sandvik stainless steel... And for a higher end steal, well I'm still debating on that but right now Elmax has been up there for some years now ( fell in love with it with the giant mouse fix blade I got years ago)...
Anyways there's my two cents on the subject😂.. Have a great day y'all 😎✌️
Good way to look at it!
I agree with what you said in your video %100. I definitely use mine for Amazon packages and some of my knives for cutting food on a camping trip and flipper knives I sit and fidget with them. Most of all I just like to open my knife keeper box and just enjoy looking at the beauty of the knife.
My edc is used for all kinds of stuff. Opening and breaking down boxes, opening plastic bags, to cutting string or rope, to cleaning game. My current favorites are 14c28n, D2, & cpm 154.
Nice picks
I think the steel is very important. If you use your knife a lot like I do, the hardness really comes into play, because it cuts whatever you throw at it and doesn't need constant sharpening.
Example, I was up on a ladder recently trying to adjust a security mirror. The person who put it up used steel "piano" wire and ran it back and forth to get the mirror set. I tried to change it and the whole contraption started coming down. I needed to cut the wire quickly, so I pulled out my hogue a01-ms, deployed it with one hand while I was holding the mirror with the other, and cut through the steel cable with ease. Didn't even dent my csm-154 blade.
Sign of a good blade and we are glad it has served you well! Thanks for watching
Edge geometry matters, proper heat treatment matters, some blade steels are better than others.
By all of these things combined you get an excellent knife!
destroyed the edge on my sanremnu 710 on black floor striping pad. I cut up the big disc to do the edges of the floor and remembered that there are bits of carbide in there. Dull as a butter knife when i was done, but I was shocked that the coating held up without deep scratching. it took hard work to reprofile. I still use it today
Glad you were able to bring it back and keep using it!
I couldn’t agree more! My favorite pocket knife has 154cm steel and I couldn’t be happier with it. I’m a outdoors man as well as a truck driver by trade and use it on anything from cutting a sandwich in half to cutting air hose to make a repair if I need to. It’s also my hunting knife I use to skin game with or process a chicken that I raise. It sharpens up well, I just really like it.
154cm is awesome! Be sure to clean your knife off between each of those, we would hate for you to get sandwich on your air hose lol
😂
Great video and a su jet I've been thinking about for quite a while. My main carry for a long time now has been an Acta Non Verba P100 which is made from N690, which is equivalent to 440C from what I understand and I've never had a probity it.
I always laugh at how people in this community complain about soft heat treats (particularly from Italian makers) when the majority of their use is as you said: breaking down cardboard and cutting open other knife boxes/Amazon packages. It's so easy to jump on bandwagons.
It's no fun owning a rad knife and letting it collect dust. Where's the joy in that? I love using my knives. But maybe that's just me 😉 Unless it's a legit collector's item or has sentimental value, I'm gonna enjoy making use of my tools as they were intended. And sometimes I just reach for my box cutter. Use the best tool for the job, don't try to justify your knife's existence!
Thanks for a sensible take on this subject, TC! 😎👍👊
Thanks for watching! We have a lot of tools that have sentimental value attached to them and knives are no different
Very nicely done TC. We have had this debate with customers for years. What makes Honey Badger Knives Honey Badger Knives is the value proposition. With 8CR13MOV this holds true. There have been many requests for our knives with higher end steels. The moment we do that then the value proposition tanks. My EDC is one of our 8CR13MOV blades. I keep a loaded strop on the kitchen counter and every few days I just give the knife a few passes bringing it back to shaving sharp. Not all 8CR13MOV is made equal - the factory making ours continues to do a great job! Keep up the great work and thanks for the continued support.
I'll look at some of your knives to see what you make. I'm looking for a small to medium fixed blade with a great sheath. That's something that I wish more knife companies would pay more attention to, better sheath and carry options. There are some good knives that I've passed on because the carry options were terrible.
@@douglassmith3901 we have had many requests to produce a budget friendly fixed blade. We are working on a few things but no guarantees! Thanks for the interest.
Ha you said the quiet part outloud.
I carry a tiny Swiss Army knife with nail clippers, nail file, knife, toothpick and tweezers. Then I usually carry a shaman CTS xhp to work. If it's a light duty day, I will carry a s45vn para3 or the all-time greatest budget knife, the civivi sokoke. I enjoy all three steels however the survey is dull by the end of the week. The para3 is dull after a month or 2. The Shaman loses its razor sharp edge after a couple days but then it seems to stay very sharp for a very long time.
Good one you for carrying such a wide range of steels. It really comes down to what you are using the tools for for how long they last and as always maintain and oil them as needed
This is so true! Best honest video I’ve seen in quite a while. I will easily reach for a knife I’ve spent far less money on to do majority tasks then an expensive one. They all get the job done when taken care of. Great video!
My most carried knife is in CTS-BD1. An original Manix LW. Basically a slightly higher performing AUS-8 level steel. Gets scary sharp. I spent an hour last night reprofiling a BM mini crooked river S30V, using 140, 400 & 600 grit diamond. Exhausting
Thanks for watching!
I got into knives after starting to look into new folder since my current one wasn't performing to my standarts. I do in fact do have to cut a bunch of zip ties and do a lot of wire stripping. I've lost about ⅜" on the 440A blade from constant sharpening done (800 grit) and when on field batoning some kindling the liner lock just gave out.
That last part is not steel related but the point still stands, the EDC's are meant to be trashed a bit at least, for there is no need for extra thoughness if you are not going to use it hard.
I have D2 crossbar lock knife on the way already. Something that will handle my demands hopefully and will not be too devastating to break or loose.
The anodized scales will wear nicely too fos some extra flair.
I just ordered from you guys today. I ordered the RR Denim micarta Barlow and the RR Denim micarta Electrician's Knife. Can't wait till they come in!
🙌🙌🙌
I have some nice knifes but my work horse is my mora companion. Use it daily for food prep, box cutting and packages camping, hiking. Dug in the dirt to cut roots. Its the knife i grab for yard work and house repairs iv taken it to work to cut insulation for aircraft tho it dulled pretty fast. I have a problem with beating up my expesive ones i avoid it and the mora is called to duty. List goes on for the mora and iv only owned it for 3 years i sharpen it by hand and strop it once a week.
S90v is what ive settled on for a folding blade. I cut cardboard, tape, rope, zip ties, straps and foam mainly.
That being said i also carry a folding box cutter and use it primarily and save my knife when im cutting less punishing materials, especially after i just spent 30-60 min putting a wicked edge on it the night before lol
I process a lot of tree branches on my property. For that my Becker BK-9 does a great job. For smaller jobs such as opening and collapsing boxes and other packaging I use whichever folder I'm carrying that day. On my nightstand though I have an old Kamp King camping knife for small tasks in my room. Great video.
Great collection and good use for each of them. Maybe Ethan Becker needs to make a knife dedicated to breaking down boxes...
I couldn't agree more! Thank you for the content!
Thank you for watching!
My heavy duty folders are either the Benchmade mini adamas or Griptilian but my Victorinox works great for opening envelopes and Amazon packages and usually gets used more.
Watched your video months ago and got busy and didn't comment but owning my business working on anything and everything that will go through my doors but 25 plus years in auto body repair and did mostly hard collision repairs. Cutting open boxes, rubbers, bumper covers on wrecks and even body filler. Kershaw is my main edc but I have some cold steel ,CRKT, and a few other knives under 150 bucks but Kershaw is hard to beat in my neck of the woods. I'm fixing to purchase a Work Tuff Gear fixed blade as soon as I make up my mind. 👍👍
Thanks for watching
My experience is that if I use the knife it gets dull. Whether it's a Swiss Army Knife or Magnacut. Both can start out shaving sharp. But with a little use it no longer shaves, no matter the steel. I've seen all the tests to show what has better edge retention, but I never experience it. So I'm just happy with AUS 8 or better.
The more you use them the quicker they need maintenance
Thank you for the video. My father is 70 and inherited an Opinel from his father, it's.... really old. No supersteel, no Magnacut, just plain old carbon steel Opinel still uses today. It gets the job done since decades and still gets used almost daily.
I love my 23$ True folder that I got at the local lumber store and I have zero idea what it's made of. It's gotten everything cut that i've encountered and yes I do sharpen from time to time, so what?
As long as it works 👍
TC speaking truth, I always carry more than one knife…, there’s usually 3 different blades on me for different tasks, and then I have two more under the counter here @ work, it all depends what I’m cutting, I honestly don’t think I could carry just one blade…💯😄
I think it's does matter but true not for most people. None of my knives don't get used I have everything from Gerber mystery steels to s35v and I have sharpened everything in-between. All of my knives have scratches from hard use but I try to choose the right grind/shape for the job. I cut a lot of cardboard and plastic lids for my job and a lot of times razors chip and then I can't cut newspaper paper which I also cut frequently for my job. So actually it's the weakest materials that brings me to my knees because if my knives aren't sharp then I tare the newspaper (I am pressman) then I often have to restart that action or redo something and this is why I am very interested in magnucut and M390 as sometimes my knife dulls in the same day from all the cutting I do
Well said and thought out, thanks for watching
I've been using a knife as a can opener for a long time now and I like it.
I carry S30v because I like bucks BOS heat treat and that it’s a powder steel made in the USA. Although I am guilty of the alternative knife for harder task but it’s another S30v 110 in G-10 do I can keep my carry one nice so it’s the same steel but different knife. But it also depends on what the knife is for like I have a buck 808 and use it as a machete so I like the fact that it has 5160 a spring steel in it
Nice carries on both and good to see you put them to work 👍
Yes, I have many premium steel blades, but I carry box cutters for cardboard and my common yard work knife is a partially serrated 3Cr folder, and I have to use it a lot cutting or digging out stubborn fibrous weeds.
Controversial topic but you do raise valid points! Blade geometry also plays a large part on how knives perform and I think ppl tend to forget about that and just go for the blade steel alone..thanks for another entertaining video!
Thanks for watching! We love having these kind of talks and getting people feed back
Geometry is overlooked. Wish more companies made thinner stocks and thinner edges. The “apocalypse” knives get old
Just want to say, I got a blue collar job and I carry a leatherman wave plus (company supplied) and an also a spyderco para 2 s30v. Cutting ground fabrics in excavation will dull my leatherman 1.5 hours into my shift. Spyderco will be dull within 4 hours. Dragging my blade through the earth will put small chips on S30v. 420HC holds up a lot better. It’s is vastly easier to sharpen the 420 compared to s30v. 420 sharpens like a dream with regular sharpening stones and or rocks on the ground. S30v takes a cheap diamond stone or wet stone to sharpen.
Agree 100%. I dont even usually cut cardboard, just the tape holding it closed. I did have a thought when you mentioned the box cutter. Could u do a video on cool knives with readily available replacement blades? Most of them that are job supplied are chunky. I want a cool one. It will be my primary cutter, but I'll still carry a pocket jewelry one to make me smile and impress my friends! 10:51
Holosun has some nice replaceable blade hunting and edc knives using scalpel type blades. Razor sharp but not strong. For strength, Outdoor Edge has some good stuff, also sharp and you can touch up those replaceable blades a time or two if you want. Gerber has a new line of replaceable blade hunting knives as well that look great but I don’t have one yet. I usually clean and quarter deer and hogs with a Buck Slim Pro Elite but sometimes when I don’t have access to hot water to clean fat off a knife edge the replaceable blade Holosun and Outdoor Edge knives are weight in gold.
Should say worth their weight in gold.
Great Video ! I agree most of the knives that people use are for cutting packages open Amazon packages and snack packs so true !
Modern life has changed the daily life of a knife from skinning to open boxes…. Not that we are complaining and reminds us we should have mail coming today lol
As long as the heat treatment is right. If they charge alot of money for a knife because it has a premium blade steel, but its not heat treated correctly than your not getting your money's worth for instance they charge 250 or more when they should charge 150 or less because the heat treatment doesn't stand up . A premium steel that is not heat treated to the best if its premium like m390 and other premium steels will still cut good just not as much as it should. If you dont care about steel running soft and you have a lot of money and you would spend a 1000 if you wanted a knife brand bad enough with the knowledge that the blade steel is not what it needs to be thats cool but just know your getting ripped off 😂😂. Good video, brother 👌
I liked this video. I own several budget knives with budget steels and they are perfect for my everyday taks. I have a preference for stainless steels because my city has high humidity. I been carrying my good old RAT 1 with AUS 8 and it works just fine!
I was gifted a Benchmade 810 contego. It is sharp! But with it being M390, I am scared about sharping it.
Send it into Benchmade themselves! www.benchmade.com/pages/lifesharp
I’ve got one with cheap steel all the way up to s30v, s90v,MagnaCut, CPM-D2. They all cut. Well. The D2 is in the mail. Just ordered the Benchmade Claymore OTF from you guys. And I live in Newport, about 25-30 minutes from the store. Lol. How bad is that?
Life gets busy and sometimes it is easier to have it sent to your front door lol
Bee sure to stop and see us when you get time neighbor
My issue with "lower" quality steel knives is that the QC on them is generally bad. They also tend to use lower quality materials on the handles/scales.
That’s why they are affordable. But the qc part isn’t true.
Good budget knifes like civivi for example come better than most of the Spydies or benchmades i got send.
@@mbhaus6349 I'll look into Civivi.
Preach brother
🙌🙌🙌
Very informative video..new to knives and all this is really great info. Thanks!
3:45 Special occasions. Like riding public transportation in Chicago. Great presentation.
Always have to be careful when riding the Subway
I have collected pocket knives since I was 7, I'm 72 now, I carry an extra knife to loan because a kid pulled out some big staples out of a cardboard box and scratched my blade once. I have some really nice older stag and bone Case, Tree Brand, Browning, Winchester, Remington and other knives that are so nice I won't carry them. When I work in the yard, or shop I carry an old Schrade Old Timer 80T that was over sharpened before I owned it, if I loose it or break it, I won't lose any sleep. I do some whittling and used a old Tree Brand congress pattern, it held an edge a long time in walnut. Also used a stainless Browning stockman, I later got some Two Cherries carving knives that are really nice. I collect old Miller Brothers pocket knives ( 1863-1926 ), they were well made, as were most that were made back then, even Imperial knives (1916)were well made in the old days. I have carried a Colt M 16 K knife on a pocket clip for many years while in law enforcement and after I retired but it is really too big for most of my everyday use. I have a large Pakistan folding knife in my shop I use to get the brass scrap out of rubber electrical plugs, I hit it with a hammer while the plug is in a vise, I wouldn't abuse a good knife that way. I have one Benchmade knife, I would buy more and carry one if they weren't so expensive. Like you said, when it is sharp, you cant' tell the difference, only after long use, that is the test. I have all these pretty knives and won't use most of them. Collecting knives is a disease, but I love it. Thank you for your honesty.
Thanks for watching and sharing your knife tales with us!
100% agree. That said, knives with premium steel hold their secondary value more, and enthusiasts generally buy with the expectation they will may resell and otherwise rotate the knives in their collection.
First question we always ask is, "What are you using it for" and then we make steel suggestions
Totally agree w ya sir…I don’t buy expensive knives…I clean a few deer a year and normal things around home…I choose knife steels that I can sharpen and I enjoy keeping them sharp…AUS 8/D2/440 etc are my usual choices…with no complaints.
The first question we always ask when someone ask us, "What knife should I get?" is what are you using it for?
Well said. You hit the nail on the head.
Thanks for watching Kelvin!
For me I don't care as much about edge retention as I do corrosion resistance. I live in the southeast and use my knives for carving and like to hike a lot. I keep them clean but don't want to worry if I ever forget or miss a spot.
Take a look at the Spyderco Salt series, they hold up to salt water and moisture like nobody's business
Knife steel count to an extent depending on what you are cutting . There are some really crappy steels out there in the bargain knives that are all many of us can afford. I have a couple of knives reserved for self defense that don't get used for anything else. Any of my edc knives are used for any kind of cutting. Now that I'm retired and disabled I don't do much heavy cutting. When I was a mechanic my knives also served as gasket scrapers.
My knife heart is happy and full. KNEW IT. Agreed. GRACIAS amigo.
Got to put them to work for it to matter and when it does matter then you have been using it
The highest end steel I’ve had is S30V. In my experience blade geometry and heat treating seem to be the most crucial factors. And of course if you can sharpen to a serviceable edge once it gets dull.
Some hard truths in this video I love it. The only people I hear always talking about the knife steels are the people that sharpen knives for a profession.
It really does boil down to what you like and what you are cutting
I use a knife a lot I work as a rigger and I do lots of tree work those carbon steel knives that case makes or eye brand are the best work knives you can sharpen them and just for what I consider to be a lot of money blade material s35 it still gets dull and it is a job sharpen now as far as stainless goes 420hc is pretty easy in the middle of day when you are working you don't have time to sharpen at night but a carbon steel or 4:20 you can do that very quickly I want to get one with 154cm and see what it is like I wish somebody would make a nice flipper style knife with carbon steel like on the old case trapper
Thanks for watching! There is always something to be said for being able to touch up your knife no matter where you are
Great shirt!!
We love @GrunyStyle
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I carry four blades everyday. My sak for the nail clippers. My Leatherman for the pliers. My pocket knife because i don't know why I bother and then my Gerber prybrid. Which gets the most use, then my leatherman blade gets the next most use. I've never used my sak blade. And i rarely use my pocket knife, but i carry one anyways.
Similar to our carry. Fixed blade because it is always a good idea, modern folder because that is what we reach for the most, SAK for all the tools, and a multi-tool for bigger and more tools
That intro was so awesome!
TC like to be sassy sometimes...ok a lot of the time lol
🔪,I agree,best topic and intro,and on the real tip
Early tonight I was using my leatherman t4(420HC) to cut a stick to have a point for roasting marshmallows and it looked like it was hard in the edge.
A noble use for a knife anytime!
I would love to guys do a video on the most confusing question in the knife realm WHAT IS A TACTICAL KNIFE. How do you define a tactical knife beacuse depending on who you ask your going to get a different answer please see this T.C and Greg. LETS MAKE IT SIMPLE TO DEFINE.
Honestly I only focus on the corrosion resistance because I sweat more than most and my knife is always in my pocket. I also look at the blade shape and handle material, but those are due to personal choice. I agree with you on all of this.
You are right T.c. !
Thanks for watching Bwax!
My most used knife is a Spyderco Bow River with 8cr13 mov I cut trap n net rope clean n cut fish and game open boxes n broke the tip prying like a fool it mighr not hold an edge like a super steel but in most cases I can strip it back or sharpen it on a river rock in quick order if needed
I cut alot of heavy plastic stuff at work and my leatherman dulled b4 the day was over... but my bugout holds up all-day ( plastic straps)
Hey TC, i’m not sure if you’ll see this but I am new to the knife world and I want to start sharpening my knives, but I don’t know where to begin. What do you recommend using to sharpen my knives? A field sharpener , whetstone, I don’t even know what grit to start off with, do I need multiple different numbered grit?
Hey! Thank you so much for watching, I would honestly recommend going with something like the WorkSharp Precision Adjust Pro, really anything that holds the blade at a consistent angle. Something like that will usually come with various grits, for re-profiling you will need 420 or lower grit, then for a final grit I like 800 or higher and then a strop of some sort. For a lower entry fee you could use something like the Worksharp Field sharpener it just takes a little more care holding a consistent angle but it does provide all the grits you need. From there you can eventually move on to a set of stones for hand sharpening which opens you up to a myriad of possibilities and the addiction sets in.
@@TCB2Country122 thanks a lot bud! I appreciate it :)
For general use I’d definitely agree!
🙌🙌🙌
Real nigga alert
I carry a hogue in 154cm daily and use it daily I do maintenance and spend alot of time hunting,fishing and the outdoors and carry a buck 110 and a couple of different esees and like others have said the heat treat regardless of steel makes the difference
Heat treat can be a huge factor
Blade steel matters to me I would be embarrassed to tell anybody I got stabbed with D2
Please try not get stabbed by any steels...or any other materials while your at it as well
@SMKWcom thank you for the advice Don't worry I wear safety goggles in the shower and a hard hat when I mow the yard Safety first!!
Blade configuration, decent quality control and the ability to take and hold and edge for a decent amount of time is what matters to me. While to each his own, I will not pay a small fortune for a knife that I'm going to use. That is why I'm a fan of Rough Ryders; I'm a collector of knives, but I also use them....P.S. I would love to see more traditional patterns in VG 10, and maybe 440 C. :)
Thanks for watching Mark!
I’d like to see more folders in cpm3v
Couldn't agree with you more. I also chuckle, somewhat, to see the steels that are used in modern folders. Magna Cart is a great choice in a 7in K bar. (Cool knife, by the way.) To my mind, using something like magnet cut in a small folder is like hunting deer with an M2 .50 cal.
Great video TC! I have a wide variety of knives with varying blade steels. When you look back people were handing down knives long before super steels came along. So… if that’s the case and buying lots of knives is a thing what is the purpose of super steels? So, what’s the purpose? I mean I love my super steels but to what avail?
We love the wide range of knives and awesome steels that are available now days but we just had to ask if it is the end all be all
I remember when 154 cm and vg-10 were the supersteels and not that long ago. With every new supersteel comes a super price. I carry a Case trapper because it is easy to open my mail with. 420 j2 and 3cr13 are about the only steels I won't consider. They become dull quickly, in my experience.
I like steels with well balanced properties. I haven't used M390/20CV or S90V and don't plan to. Most of my knives are S30V because $$$Benchmade, and most are stainless. I'm one of those guys who will work an expensive knife for anything: Sheetrock, rope, and even some metal work. Ide rather give up some edge retention for more toughness and I do prefer stainless so I don't have to fuss over it.
Good on you to put those blades to work!
I'd say the toughest material my knives see on a daily basis is a ceramic dinner plate. Pottery glazes are basically silica glass and nothing dulls an edge like glass. Serrated steak knives are a direct answer to ceramic plates and how brutal they are on plain edges. My EDC at the moment is 14c28n. It's tough, stainless, easy to sharpen, keeps an edge long enough for most tasks, and is affordable enough for me not to baby it. I grew up with 420, 440, and 1095. They work well within their limitations but more options are not a bad thing. My first D2 knife was a real game changer.
Thanks mucho for straight talk. When much younger i graduated from good pocket knives only occasionally used to a better Buck knife in belt holder do I could be one of the guys. I wore that blade down by sharpening it so much the point became dangerous when closed - but rarely used. Today i use box cutters and utility knives. I dry sharpen them on fine sandpaper. I suspect that the fine knife steel blades are almost all vanity props. If you are off grid living and field dress game and such elemental tasks then such good knives are critical. Not in an urban digity setting. Thanks again for putting the whole issue in context. You are a valuable voice.
It really is about using the right tool for the right job and using what you like as well