I have a couple decades experience in mechanics, trucks, small engines and equipment etc.... I think you did a very thorough job of going over a machine and explaining things and what to look for. Very well done.
I would have made a comment about the hourmeter. If it's INOP, then how many hours the machine has are unknown. Of course you can't trust even a working hourmeter. But comparing the number of hours to the general condition of the machine can tell you something.
Sound like your very seasoned man hey if you ever in need of expanding your inventory, equipment or ascending your company entirely let me know I can help you acquire funding to the tune of 500k or in just 2 days no credit check
The only reason they say not to blow out air filters is because people would use high pressure (around 100psi) to blow them out and it would put small holes in the filter. One big thing I've seen with people cleaning filters rather than replacing is they don't inspect the sealing material. Over time it will dry up and crack which will let dust past. But if you inspect your seals and don't use too high pressure there's no good reason not to re-use a paper filter a few times in my opinion.
Every tool that has an engine says not to clean the filters today. but we still do because heavy construction is very dusty and you don`t want to but a new filter every week.
I have no experience with any heavy equipment. I don't need it either, I can watch your videos and imagine myself. This is reality TV. Thanks for keeping it real, thanks for the dog shots, thanks for failing sometimes, thanks for making my day on the other side of the country. Thanks Matt.
I have wanted a skid steer for at least 5 years and for years I didn't have the extra funds or enough reason to buy one. That was until a few weeks ago, when I bought a 2002 New Holland LS180. It's thanks to you and your equipment videos that I learned a lot about them, and what to look for.
I grew up on a hobby farm. Having *any* powered machinery over manual labor made all the difference. The day my old man brought home a old 50s era ford dump truck with a bobcat w/bucket, I knew the days of prison labor type conditions had come to an end in my young life. Between those two machines and our old ford 8N tractor, we were pretty much good to go on most everything we needed to do (we kept 8 horses, a herd of cows, a whole mess of hogs and more fields to mow than I can ever pay a therapist to ever forget about).
Mowing is therapy....until it's not. Lol Yeah, it's crazy how something so simple can turn into torture. We have a good sized field, but we are in the hills. So after the field is mowed, we have some very steep slopes with obstacles (stumps, trees, ect..). It gets rough for sure.
7:20 radial lift is good if your doing a lot of trailer loading and unloading since you get a bit more reach. but vertical lift is better when loading dump trucks since the bucket will be further forward when dumping.
As someone who's ran all pattern types, have to say ISO is most preferred. Learned on foot controls, never cared for them. Went to H pattern and really liked it. Last taught myself the ISO on the boss's machine and by far have the best finesse and control of the machine. In time you learn to control each track individually with the single stick. Love the videos keep em coming bud.
YES. I also love that because it makes your left stick left direction your emergency control. You get stuck on something its always the same muscle memory motion to lift the boom. Anything else you risk moving the skid and ripping apart whatever you're stuck on or moving the bucket and crushing it. And of course you turn off two radii instead of one with the left side drive controls
4:25 the tracks weight more so the machine has a bit more counter weight. This allows its lift capacity to be higher and the number corresponds to the lift on these older machines. S185 is S = Skid, 185 = 1850lbs of lift, T190 is T= Track, 1900lbs lift
@@michaelwillcutt2619 its a combo of the hydraulic power and how much counter weight the machine has. If you have no counter weight it doesn't matter how strong your hydros are since it picks up the machine and not the load.
@@523FILMS All reputable manufacturers publish rated operating capacity specs per ISO standards. For wheeled machines it's 50% of the tipping load at the center of a bucket at maximum reach position. For track loaders it's 33%. Track loaders are derated more because of the nature of how they ride over bumps, but they gain some back because the front idler is farther forward than the center of a wheel. Most machines can lift more than ROC and carry it as long as the slope is fairly level and it's traveling slow.
I call mine a Skid Kitty! Picked up a new Case SR210 last spring and put steel over-the-tire tracks on it. Absolutely love it. Best investment you could make for any homestead
I am a first time Skid Steer Buyer doing my homework. Your video was fantastic. I am mechanically literate but you still presented things I would not have thought about. Thank you.
One other thing to mention on the ISO controls. You mentioned inability to compensate for slipping in tough conditions. I find that if its tough going and you have to make the same trip over and over you tear things up more with ISO controls and end up making it even worse. With ISO you are really only powering one track in a hard pivot turn and if its muddy that one track is going to have to dig like hell to do it. With independent track control you can kind of jockey one track forward and one back to ease your way around a hard slippery corner without making it a full on mud bog after a couple trips. That said, ISO sure is nice most of the time and track machines are 1000% the way to go. Yeah tracks are expensive but if you take descent care they make up the difference in productivity and lack of getting stuck over their lifespan. LOVE the channel man, keep up the good work.
@@DieselCreek I really love this video. If I go get one, I want to get your exact setup. I won't earn enough money with it to replace rubber tracks and I'll use the finesse of H/Case controls.
One other thing I’d have mentioned is most Bobcat machines I’ve ever seen use a big belt to run from the flywheel to the hydraulic pump, and they can break. Case machines of the same size (1840,1845) are direct drive off the crank pulley. An easy way to tell is Generally if a machine has a transverse (side to side) mounted engine it’ll be belt driven, but if it’s a longitudinal mounted engine it’s likely direct drive. Both have their advantages, for instance starters are far easier to change on the transverse setups.
My 763 is a 1999 model that I bought from a Bobcat dealer in 2003. Standard foot controls and a normal arc lift. I have well over 1000 hours in the seat and I have yet to have an issue with the arc lift. A lot of the time was with forks too. I see the "advanced" instruments as just more to break and the mechanics I talked to feel the same way but it is totally personal preference. I agree it is a machine that once you have one, you never want to be without it. We are in the high desert and it is dry a lot. We are looking to move to Georgia so tracks will be in order. Blowing out the air filter, yep, I do it all the time but only from the inside out to prevent blowing dirt through the filter.
CAT dealers sell $15 mailer test kits for hydro oil/motor oil/antifreeze... 3 day turn around. Draw correctly to avoid contamination (not out drain plug). Tests help decide if machine is a problem child with unusual wear metals, or if you can run the oil a while longer before changing... Tests save $$$. Just passed on a 2018 466.6 hour Bobcat S570 with "large particles" in hydro system according to CAT lab... particles can be just one particle and jam a piston in hydro system and voila, you're down and out in a blizzard or stranded at job site. It's worth the test.
I'm a Mechanic and Even I blow out air filters to save money When it's time and blowing it out don't get it clean to my liking then I replace won't harm any machine or even automotive vehicle to blow out filters to get a bit more service life out them don't matter if it's equipment or heavy equipment or Automotive vehicles air filters are not cheap I agree with you Matt 30:28 @Diesel Creek
Oh god. Algae in the fuel. I was an M2 Bradley turret mech in the Army in the 90s. We fueled up half a dozen M2 Bradleys from a contaminated fuel tanker on Stewart on a field op on base. We had to pull the fuel tanks out and replace them. Unfortunately, they're located under the turret floor. As the battalion turret services mechanic, I had to prep each of these machines for turret removal in the field. Once the turret was out, hull mechanics came in and replaced the tanks and did whatever else they needed to do to kill the problem. Once that was done, I was on tap to reinstall the turrets. It was a total fucking nightmare. Long story short, if you think you _might_ have an algae problem, hit it hard, hit it fast, hit it _immediately._ The longer you wait, the more work and money you're going to have to throw at it to cure the problem, and you could end up replacing the _entire_ fuel system, from tank to injector. Do _not_ fuck around if you think you have an algae issue. It's like the clap, but for diesel vehicles.
Hahaha, that was a great analogy, MrLes Berg, that algae in the fuel system was like the clapp. I don't think any young folks know about that VD term today since diseases today seem to have gotten so high tech😅. Great analogy, brother. I served with 2nd Tank Bn, Camp Lejeune, NC back in 88. I was not a tanker but loved being a part of the unit as a support officer. Our Marine tankers went to many army schools. Just loved the relationship. The Tiger Brigade (TB) was attached to our 2nd Marine Division during the Gulf War. They gave me one of their patches which I fondly covet. Later, brother. 👍🏽🙂
Great Video. I recently purchased a 2008 S185 from a guy that I had do some high lift work for me. After watching him every day greasing his high lift and he wouldn't move it for 20 minutes after the first start of the day. Before mentioning of his skid steer for sale he said he's always done that with all of his machines to get fluids warming up. I felt good about buying it as it is my first skid steer. It has the Bobcat brand over the tire tracks, foam filled tires which I have read it helps with counter balance but can also give a rougher ride. Heat/ac, hi flow option for the auxiliary attachment and a 7 pin connector. It has the joystick controls and has the option of ISO or H. I definitely like the ISO better. All of the pins are tight as I have been around some poorly maintained machines and have noticed worn pins on them. I am still learning about it and like watching videos such as this one. I've discovered that there is a 1000/2000 hour filter change and one of them being a cooling fan motor filter.
Thanks Matt, u check them over just like I do. The other thing I do is look and smell the hydraulic fluid to see if its dirty or burnt. Great video hear.
I would also be a little wary of a machine with fresh paint, or "just gone through". Having ran both tracks and tires, if you can find a Bobcat A770 I would recommend checking it out. Being able to switch from skid steering to 4 wheel/ all wheel steering is a lot more handy than you might think. As the all wheel steering keeps you from tearing up turf and tires when running on turf or concrete/asphalt. They all have their strengths, but air filled tires don't beat you up as much as tracks.
S185 means it has a rated operating capacity of 1850 lbs. T190 means it has a rated operating capacity of 1900lbs. Hope that helps you with how they numbered the older units. There is grease zerks for the handles on the quick attach on the side.
Very close and right just missing the letter designation. The S185 meant it was a skid with 1850# roc the T190 meant it was tracked @ 1900# roc the A series being the a220 and A300 were all wheel steer @ 2200# and 3000# . It made way too much sense so they went and changed them all after the K series machines I have no idea why.
Thanks for the video. I am looking to buy my first skid steer and now I know a whole lot more than I did one hour ago. The info you provided will make an excellent mix with my mechanical experience on cars, zero turn mowers, etc. But, this will be a whole new game. Thanks again.
I'm from PA. I've been in Excavation for almost 20 years. It's a bob cat no matter what brand it is, or just call it a skid steer hahahaha. Tracks are the best.
Just thought I'd comment on the worn bush on your Bobtach plate. Bobcat do in fact sell those bushes separately. It does however still require you to grinding off the old worn bush, then re-weld the new one back on. It's an easier solution to having them welded up and jig bored back to size I think. Nice videos by the way :o)
Thats a very awesome demo of the bobcat skid loader. I thought it was sophisticated machine but the demo proved otherwise Matt. It proves that its the machine to have, too bad i cant afford one. Thanks for all the facts and the demonstration man.
Nice video. I have a 2000 863g bobcat and it's been a tank of a machine. I bought the machine for winter time and it's been great. I went to the bobcat dealer to check on a new machine and the 1st think they asked was if I was going to trade in my machine. They said that there is a waiting list for the older ones that dont have any emissions on them. They are going for a premium price because the new ones are not that good. The new "r" models with the new cast arms are up to debate. Also the prices are now up into the upper prices and alot of people cant justify the price.
One other good thing about ISO controls is that if you have an attachment that requires an operator to be outside the cab, like a backhoe attachment, you can just lean into the cab and move around a bit when you need to work down a ditch. Not that I've ever done that....
Great overall review. One thing I think should have been mentioned is the different style doors available on skid steers. There are two basic types. An overhead style you simply lift up and down like a garage door, or A swing door that open outward like a car door. The over head style I like much better as you can open the door while having something loaded on your forks. Most times a swing door can’t open because the items on the forks is obstructing the swing door from opening. You end up putting down the load and backing up just so you can get out. The other thing is I find most people will remove the swing style door (to get around the issue mentioned above as well as making the cab cooler) then they usually store it someplace not readily available when you might want it, like when out on a job and bad weather strikes, you now have no door to close. With the overhead door, it’s always there. Leave it up when desired and close it when needed. Overall you did a great job. Thanks for your videos
i brought a s130 bobcat a few months ago it has been really handy cleaning up all the junk my Dad had collected and doing a little landscaping. Then only thing i've really had to fix on mine was when the oil cooler line blew off... i had to get a stc seal kit to fix it and then refill the hydraulic oil. i serviced it a bit aswell
wow. TMI for me, but my "buy used and fix it" neighbors would love this video. I did enjoy the interior tour; I've never been inside a skidsteer and have wondered how hard it would be to operate.
I didn't read all the comments so someone could have already mentioned this. but one thing you didn't mention is to check for excessive blow by, by pulling up/out the dipstick/ or the oil filler cap. ( seeing how much smoke comes out, to check for bad rings. ) other then that great vidjayo.
The concrete contractor who poured my floor had a tracked machine. He wasn't very happy with the maintenance expense over his wheeled machine. I'm not overly knowledge on the differences. Agreed I don't think I could live without a bobcat. Great machines and a good video!
I prefer mini-skid steers and mini-loaders to skid steers mainly due to the inability to safely exit the machine with the bucket raised. I think JCB makes a single arm side entrance model that negates that. Mini skids are best for sketchy operation as it is easiest to bail from. Mini loaders can also run a cab for weather but have a better power to weight ratio than skid steers and, if articulated, tear up the ground less. Great overall machine buying video.
Man this information is worth it's weight in gold! Planning on buying a machine by year's end and this is gonna be crazy helpful. Thank you sir. Be well and take care.
Awesome, thank you for this video! I am moving to a new home where I will finally have a larger amount of land (1 acre... very small compared to your place, but way more than the city-ish place I live now), and I have been slowly acquiring larger and larger machines/engines and having to jury-rig 2x6s and have friends help move air compressors or generator sets or whatever else, and/or having stuff taking up space in my van is getting old VERY fast.... I would LOVE one of these machines (or a forklift if I can score a deal... but prefer the versatility of the skid steer) and will be on the lookout on CL/marketplace... thank you for all of your insight, this is very helpful.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ! I had watched a number of vids on used skid steers and ctls . And decided to go with CAT . Picked a used machine from their rental fleet. A 2018 , 239D with 2500 hours on it. Signed for it. It was out on rental and that job was staging tower sections and parts , up on a glacier in the Chugach Range , upper Cook Inlet . Alaska. The rental was complete . But they lost the weather window to fly it down off the glacier to the highway . So NC Machinery Fairbanks offered me a new 2023 , 239D3 . Which i bought and brought home . Amazing machine . Not too big but plenty big enough for my small firewood business. Originally I was thinking something like a CASE UniLoader or an 1840 ect. Smaller than what i got. Maybe someday ill get an older , smaller machine . This is a great vid for all the thing's to look for for buying a used machine . Which unfortunately are expensive here in interior Alaska.
Just an FYI for you. I bought a 773 (think it was 2002, the last year of the old numbering) for $16,000 maybe 12-14 years ago. Bought a used 709 excavator attachment (I see you have the attachment brackets on your boom arms) for $3,000 a couple years ago. Sold the whole thing this summer for 25K. Amazing how those went up in value. (sold to buy a T595 - love it!)
Good job on your showcase what to look for. The operator certainly needs to fix his machine soon because the bucket tilt cylinders might yet just be in the bushings. If so he will get by with low cost. The bogy also needs immediate attention. I think you need to spray some of that black rustoleum paint on you hydraulic cooler to stop bad things
Put an ad up for Farmall parts on Craigslist and FB Marketplace and you’ll sell the tires/rims if they hold air (tires are expensive), wheel weights, rad, fenders, fuel tank, tin work if it’s not mashed, head if it’s good, rearend, and the wide front.
I will say, from a LOT of experience that Bobcat machines have EXCELLENT dealer support . I can get just about ANY part I needed for my 20 year old 763. Simple stupid non turbo. I have the same tracks....make it a WHOLE new machine. Other advantage to tire machine is you can mount a 9-10' snow plow and use TIRE CHAINS. Tracks are not great in snow.
Doosan owns then now. They got rid of the Kubota engines and Doosan is putting their own engine in it. Not a fan. Have heard of lots of issues with their new machines.
I am selling mine. It is an ASV posi-track 50 horsepower, 650 hours. Perkins Diesel Engine. The tracks are still new. We have only used it to push the snow out of the driveway. I think it was an overkill because I am not into construction. It has been in our garage, not outside. The price may be negotiable $ 48 to 50,000 dollars. It comes with its bucket, hardly used. Other details can be given The machine will be sold as is. We have changed the battery every two years to a brand new one to keep it ready for the winter. We also bought the grapples if you are interested in getting it.
I interned at bobcat back in the Ingersoll-rand days, and can tell you what the numbering means. S= Skidsteer T=Track and A=All wheel steer(these were uncommon turf machines). The number is the approximate rated lift capacity, missing the zero on the end. Your S185 is rated for about 1850lbs of lifting. Because track machines are slightly heavier, and more stable, they have more lift capacity, so the same size unit with tracks would be rated more, hence the T190 (rated for 1900lbs)
I was a service tech for 9 years and part my job was writing work warning letters for the equipment owners and got say you done great job letting future buyers on what to look out for If i was still in that type work your video would be on my job-site for all buyers ! I serviced mostly big trucks and forklifts Rv's anything that came in got the service over-site as a free inspection and gave us many future job's !
in my opinion, I think The case 1845c Is definitely Worth Buying I've had one for about 3 years now done regular oil changes And it still purs like the day I got it And I will say the Tires I run I don't get Stuf though I'm considering some wheel tracks
Wow great Vajayo! I am a newb to owning this type of equipment and just bought a 22 year old ( low hour) TLB. You did a great job of explaining everything here and how to look at a piece of equipment. I don't have anyone to tech me this stuff as I am a home gamer on a few acers of land. Thank god for youtube and people like like you who can teach us this stuff!!!!
@@bustersmith5569 It is a Kubota L4200 with under 1600 hrs. on it so at 20+ years old I wld call it low hours for the age? Most of the tractors I saw on market were 4000 hrs. .
Thanks. This really gave some insight as what to look for when buying a used Bobcat skid steer. I sure would like to have one. The wife saw me watching all these skid steer videos and wondered if that was going to be my next "oh honey, surprise" purchase. I won't until I learn more what to look for. 👍🏽🙂
@@madtater5948 Hahaha, so true, Mad tater. I would have loved to have heard your explanation when you were stammering to get words out your mouth 😅. Have a fine week, mad tater. 👍🏽🙂
Regarding seals: A penguin driving his car notices that the oil pressure light is on. He gets out to look and sees oil dripping out of the motor. He drives to the nearest town and stops at the first gas station. After dropping the car off, the penguin goes for a walk around town. He sees an ice-cream shop and, being a penguin, decides that something cold would really hit the spot. He gets a big dish of ice cream and sits down to eat. Having no hands he makes a real mess trying to eat with his flippers. After finishing his ice cream, he goes back to the gas station and asks the mechanic if he's found the problem. The mechanic looks up and says "It looks like you blew a seal." "No no," the penguin replies, "it's just ice cream."
Maybe another video given the basics on what to look for and the instrument panels. On your other video you spoke about error codes! That would be good info. What is a good “try out” exercise for a skid steer? And price to expect for different types and ages.
I definitely prefer the foot controls, I think it’s neat you actually have an option with this machine. The John Deere I operated a few years ago, you didn’t have that option. I’ve operated both hand and foot, love the foot.
I ran a bobcat with foot controls for a week and almost couldn't walk when done. My legs too long, feet too big, or something was out of whack. It was a workout. ... Of course might have nothing to do with running a hammer pointing downhill until the whole machine would slide off, drive around, point downhill, repeat. 😆🙄👍
I REALLY enjoy these videos because I'm looking to pick up used equipment for the farm. Enjoyed your dozer video as well. Already have a crawler loader and backhoe. Looking for a skid steer to do the smaller jobs faster. Even used, this equipment is very expensive so we need to know what to look for with hopes of avoiding a money pit. Thanks for taking the time to make these review videos.
Just FYI if the paint does bother you one of the easiest ways to save money on production is paint so if you had the time or money you can heavy primer and paint it with quality paint and it'll last a long time reason rust spots show up so fast is cheap. Paint cracks water gets in starts rusting under the paint then it all flakes away... Good paint is pretty much always worth it weather your going to sell it in ten years or keep it for 20
Man that was fantastic! It’s been 15 years since I used that and similar Bobcats, excellent refresher course. I’m in the market for a similar one! Thanks
Very good information. I am looking at a used machine in about the same condition as yours with a grapple and a bucket. I think it will do what I need it to do.
SW Ohio here, need a skidsteer in the worst way but hard trusting anyone around me here and I don't know enough to protect myself from a money pit. This video helped a lot as I feel a bit more confident now but still really Leary about the prices of these machines. I don't mind having an old piece of iron here that works and completes the task despite the looks, but I am stuck looking for machines that only a mechanic should really be looking into and I am no mechanic. So each year I push back obtaining this one tool that could really be a homestead changer. I rent now and try to get a thousand tasks done in the day or tow I have the machine. Not ideal but a guy has to do what he can with what he has. Still looking here in Ohio.
A pressure washer can be used to your advantage. Repeated greasing is necessary but the residual grease traps dirt and that eventually adds to the wear. A dirty machine left outside will go downhill fast. If you want to just jump on your machine use it and shut it down then save your money for the new one that you will eventually need. Do not get it out of your mind that someone is selling that machine for a reason.
They are a great machine to have around any job site however I disagree that it's the most versatile machine to have, I believe the most versatial machine would have to be the farm tractor with the 3 pt hitch and PTO both front and rear.
Very limited height of lift with skid steer compared to conventional machines. Conventional loaders are more versatile especially combined with conventional tractor. Imo
I think the tracks of your skid steer sounds awesome! Reminds me of an old M4 Sherman tank! 😄A friend of mine just got a Kubota SVL75 for his business and I might think he loves that machine more than his wife! 😄
we have a 495 bobcat track. .nice machine.. keep those tracks adjusted and u be fine.. I noticed it's better to run 90 degree couplings bc if u don't u can slam attachments into the remote hook ups
What a great video Appreciate the information was looking at a skidsteer for Lifting Cabs or bodies off vehicles for easier repairs 45:03 @Diesel Creek
Those piston seals are real simple. 10 minute job once you get the piston off machine . Only concern should really be is getting the getting the main seal cap off. Those smaller ones usually spin right off. If not some heat usually does the trick.
That Kubota engine is one of the best. I had a Gehl skid steer at my place of work and when we traded it in the engine had 9000. Hours on it a lot of hours for a small diesel engine. 😮
I traded a Ford loader tractor for a Case 1830 skid steer that tuned out as another money pit. The guy I traded to put two new cylinders on the loader and sold it for $4800 in a month. Let me say up front I am not an equipment mechanic but was an auto mechanic for 20+ years. What I got was a well used Case 1830 that only had a 28 hp. engine that needed repairs, full tune up and carb gone through. I also had to remove the cab to repair a drive chain that broke as I was parking it one day and found both sides filled with water. It finally thew a rod in less than a year and the radiator leaked. I had no choice and finally decided on a diesel engine for $1500 plus shipping. That engine was slightly larger so I had to modify the skid steer and the mounting for the hydraulic pump.That meant a new plate that was made at a machine shop ($100 ) and $200 to the welding shop for other work. I had that engine in and out about six times to put in new motor mounts and line up the hydraulic pump. Then there was the problem of the linkage for the controls that took a while to get working, cut the floor out to access the oil filter and oil drain; This took a couple months and when I got it going again it was three times the skid steer I traded for and about $3000 out of my pocket. When I sold it it needed the lift cylinders replaced as they were leaking. Now I am haunted that I sold it and my trailer for $7200 and have nothing to work with now. as usual I needed the money at the time but I still lost on that deal. Now I have been looking for over a year and there are none I can afford around my area.
of all the skid loaders out there the one that seemed to be among the the best best midsized was the JCB robot, I like the side door entrance for one thing and that new JCB they have come out with is like swiss army knife in bigger machines bobcat has a great one
Been using a JD2240 4X4 with loader, just bought a Cat 246C skid. I'm struggling to get use to climbing in over the bucket. Many times working on projects I need out to deal with something lifted in the loader. Can't get out of the cab unless I lift the load up 7' and climb out underneath. Other than that I'm loving the machine. Thanks for the video, it gave me some tips for when I looked at the Cat initially.
@ 10:45, if that hole gets sloppy, I would bore it oversize and put an O/S bushing in it, before I would weld and re-drill. I can't imagine how many things like that I have worked on with 35 years as a machinist.
And drive chains and/or final drives for track machine. Blow by on the engine. When checking the pumps without pressure and flow equipment there are a few good ways to do this depending on what type a machine it is and if it’s a wheel machine what type wheels or tracks it might have added. First when you are going to look at a perspective machine take two blocks of wood 1 foot long and about 8” tall at the widest (it can be 8” , 6”+2”, or two 4”) you lift machine up in front with bucket and tilt up as far as you can place the blocks under the machine just in front of rear axle let machine down till rear axle lifts off ground and front axle remains off ground. You can now check the drive motors for free play, rock the axles for loose bearings and check drive chains. For flow place a mark on both tracks and run them 1 min each side. They should be fairly close on the amount of revolutions per min. (With one one to two max) same with track machine. At this point you can check for excessive case drain as well the drive motors should be warm to touch (Luke warm not scalding hot ) if they are excessively hot you motor or the pumps are on the way out or are in need of resealing and repair. This should be checked before running the drives/pumps over relief to check pressure on motors and pumps. once speed and flow is checked then run the drives over relief “gently” first. You can put machine back on ground and use the block or a other smaller block to bind the drives one at a time first low idle and gently push in to it to check to see if it stalls. It should pull engine down if it doesn’t then it’s worn out or the relief(s) is stuck in bypass. A pilot controlled machine can also be checked at low idle for control leaks in this way. So you need to understand how the machine works to an extent to get the most out of these test. IE a machine that don’t stall at low idle may also have pot control issues in the manifold but you hav to understand the systems some. After low idle the check and pull it in gently against a block or pile of something and see if both sides stall about same time and that they don’t stall to early indicating weak hydros or bad pumps. Flow for main hydraulics works the same way run them gently over relief to make sure each pulls the engine down some but. It excessively (these aren’t eg drive motors they shouldn’t kill the machine unless your operating something off the high flow side) At this time of there is two of you have one person hold the machine over relief and feel the cylinders (after about 30sec) check cylinders in locations around where the pistons should be at this time checking for the cylinder to e noticeably warmer at that point. ( if it is the cylinder is leaking and needs repacked or piston is loose ) after checking the reliefs run them through full range of motion at least three times check for binding in controls and loader/bucket. after third time either you get out or other person checks the cylinder again this again checks the seals and also now the anti-cavitation valves if they have them (most modern loaders do they are located at the base of the cylinder piston on lift arms) again checking areas where the piston should be they shouldn’t be excessively warmer than the rest of the cylinder and the barrel end of cylinder shouldn’t be excessively warmer than rod end by much. Neither should be exceedingly hot to touch just warm
Of course the thick iron makes a difference with catastrophic oxidation time. But the difference between these and a car in winter areas is mostly salt. If you're doing snow removal with these and DEFINITELY if you're running a salt spreader or doing areas where chloride is used its going to rust through just as fast unless you're washing it down before parking it every time
I drove an elgin eagle street sweeper for many years and we always blew out the filters every couple of days,they would get real bad if the town we were cleaning was really bad
Was looking for a small front end loader when I got offered a New Holland L775. Bit of dealing later, I owned an L775. High flow, and two speed. Vertical lift compared to radial lift does make a difference. Post holes, pallets, and a few I can't remember, vertical lift is sweet. And I think it has a solid 8 foot dump height. But, i still should have gone with a front end loader tractor. My 775 doesn't have an enclosed cab, and winters are still kinda cold...... I envy your heater.
I had a simple vinyl enclosure with a door on an a machine 15 yrs ago. I was impressed at how much engine heat I was able to conserve with that. It's a good low dollar investment solution for open station machines.
Lots to think about and as much research one can dig up about the type of machine your thinking about buying may save you big $$$ thank you Sir you did a fine job pointing out various parts that need servicing or wore out.
S185 stands for max weight 1850 lbs lifting capacity back then. T190 is 1900 lbs, now the newer designation numbers means nothing now refering to max lift capacity anymore.
I bought a machine back in the 70's and it was a first of its kind to us anyway. I own it so first to drive off the delivery trailer. I backed it off alright, foot controls for the bucket and hand controls for the tires, I think this is a good time to point out it had no cabin.... all open to weather and not a big deal as it was for moving sawdust away from the tail spools in the mill. I drive it up to the pile of spalt and sawdust.. make a kinda good scoop and then back away. I forgot that my feet controlled the lift on the bucket and am looking backwards as I move away from conveyor to dump said materials. I must of went a good twenty feet back and not looking forwards at all as I knew everything was okay or so thought! I had been pushing on those peddle's and they were still going on up an I wasn't adjusting the bucket to keep level so it was following the plane of the lift arms..... the next thing I feel is all that sawdust pouring over my head and a few spalts hit my head as well not feeling good at all... no bucket cover on my head either, a big no no on a machine set up like that. I get off and remain calm and looked at the crew and said "you see what I did wrong, don't do that or that will happen and could hurt you bad!" I sauntered off like that was what I intended and went about business in the mill while the others returned to different jobs and a guy was learning the machine... when no one was looking, ducked into the restroom and took care of scrapes and bruises. A real humble way to start with one.
We all have our embarrassing moments, you’re just lucky it was sawdust and not softball sized rock. Back when I was learning I’ve dumped my share of rock on top of the cab.
i love my bobcat, its a 7753, i traded two 40ft shipping containers for it, came with a regular bucket, 4 in 1 bucket, set of forks and a backhoe, it had been used at a chicken farm and was never cleaned, sat before i bought it for many years, the pins for the quick connect were locked up solid and i had to cut the bucket off and then cut the pins out, that was only an afternoon to fix really, i replaced one hose and all the belts, the fuel tank has a rubber bung that fails and the fuel line drops off into the tank on this model, so i just run a jerry can on the side for fuel now, the fuel solenoid doesn't always work so i might switch it to a cable, it is mostly a toy for me, one day i'm going to sit down and design a track system for it on autocad, i have some ideas.
I`m a track hoe operator but danged if I can run a skid steer with joy sticks. after having a taste of them our shop went on a shopping spree to buy cats with the traditional steering. One thing a lot of people don`t know is that most cats have a self leveling feature in the boom for back dragging just kick the right pedal once.
I have a couple decades experience in mechanics, trucks, small engines and equipment etc.... I think you did a very thorough job of going over a machine and explaining things and what to look for. Very well done.
I would have made a comment about the hourmeter. If it's INOP, then how many hours the machine has are unknown. Of course you can't trust even a working hourmeter. But comparing the number of hours to the general condition of the machine can tell you something.
Sound like your very seasoned man hey if you ever in need of expanding your inventory, equipment or ascending your company entirely let me know I can help you acquire funding to the tune of 500k or in just 2 days no credit check
The only reason they say not to blow out air filters is because people would use high pressure (around 100psi) to blow them out and it would put small holes in the filter. One big thing I've seen with people cleaning filters rather than replacing is they don't inspect the sealing material. Over time it will dry up and crack which will let dust past. But if you inspect your seals and don't use too high pressure there's no good reason not to re-use a paper filter a few times in my opinion.
Every tool that has an engine says not to clean the filters today. but we still do because heavy construction is very dusty and you don`t want to but a new filter every week.
We had pre-filters on all our equipment!
I have no experience with any heavy equipment. I don't need it either, I can watch your videos and imagine myself. This is reality TV. Thanks for keeping it real, thanks for the dog shots, thanks for failing sometimes, thanks for making my day on the other side of the country. Thanks Matt.
I have wanted a skid steer for at least 5 years and for years I didn't have the extra funds or enough reason to buy one. That was until a few weeks ago, when I bought a 2002 New Holland LS180. It's thanks to you and your equipment videos that I learned a lot about them, and what to look for.
Hey do you mind sharing how much you paid? I’m looking at a similar one, kinda beat up
Big secret. Wtf@@pigman4084
I grew up on a hobby farm. Having *any* powered machinery over manual labor made all the difference. The day my old man brought home a old 50s era ford dump truck with a bobcat w/bucket, I knew the days of prison labor type conditions had come to an end in my young life. Between those two machines and our old ford 8N tractor, we were pretty much good to go on most everything we needed to do (we kept 8 horses, a herd of cows, a whole mess of hogs and more fields to mow than I can ever pay a therapist to ever forget about).
I guess I'd be correct in assuming that you don't hail from an Amish community. LOL!
I hear ya brother!
The day we went hand filling 30 buckets of feed to a gravity wagon pouring into a gorilla cart was the day brain cells finally appeared on the farm
Mowing is therapy....until it's not. Lol
Yeah, it's crazy how something so simple can turn into torture.
We have a good sized field, but we are in the hills. So after the field is mowed, we have some very steep slopes with obstacles (stumps, trees, ect..).
It gets rough for sure.
LOL, you can't imagine how hard your comments made me laugh, thank you.
7:20 radial lift is good if your doing a lot of trailer loading and unloading since you get a bit more reach. but vertical lift is better when loading dump trucks since the bucket will be further forward when dumping.
As someone who's ran all pattern types, have to say ISO is most preferred. Learned on foot controls, never cared for them. Went to H pattern and really liked it. Last taught myself the ISO on the boss's machine and by far have the best finesse and control of the machine. In time you learn to control each track individually with the single stick. Love the videos keep em coming bud.
YES. I also love that because it makes your left stick left direction your emergency control. You get stuck on something its always the same muscle memory motion to lift the boom. Anything else you risk moving the skid and ripping apart whatever you're stuck on or moving the bucket and crushing it. And of course you turn off two radii instead of one with the left side drive controls
4:25 the tracks weight more so the machine has a bit more counter weight. This allows its lift capacity to be higher and the number corresponds to the lift on these older machines. S185 is S = Skid, 185 = 1850lbs of lift, T190 is T= Track, 1900lbs lift
Lifting capacity is amount of pressure hydraulic can handle .
@@michaelwillcutt2619 its a combo of the hydraulic power and how much counter weight the machine has. If you have no counter weight it doesn't matter how strong your hydros are since it picks up the machine and not the load.
Rated operated capacity is the safe weight rating manufacturers give you. These machines will actually lift a lot more
@@523FILMS All reputable manufacturers publish rated operating capacity specs per ISO standards. For wheeled machines it's 50% of the tipping load at the center of a bucket at maximum reach position. For track loaders it's 33%. Track loaders are derated more because of the nature of how they ride over bumps, but they gain some back because the front idler is farther forward than the center of a wheel. Most machines can lift more than ROC and carry it as long as the slope is fairly level and it's traveling slow.
I call mine a Skid Kitty! Picked up a new Case SR210 last spring and put steel over-the-tire tracks on it. Absolutely love it. Best investment you could make for any homestead
Did the tracks make a big difference. I have a s130 I bought at an auction
I am a first time Skid Steer Buyer doing my homework. Your video was fantastic. I am mechanically literate but you still presented things I would not have thought about. Thank you.
Highly recommend the power attach (i.e. push a button to attach/detach buckets. etc.) and the two speed is nice. Did you end up getting one?
One other thing to mention on the ISO controls. You mentioned inability to compensate for slipping in tough conditions. I find that if its tough going and you have to make the same trip over and over you tear things up more with ISO controls and end up making it even worse. With ISO you are really only powering one track in a hard pivot turn and if its muddy that one track is going to have to dig like hell to do it. With independent track control you can kind of jockey one track forward and one back to ease your way around a hard slippery corner without making it a full on mud bog after a couple trips. That said, ISO sure is nice most of the time and track machines are 1000% the way to go. Yeah tracks are expensive but if you take descent care they make up the difference in productivity and lack of getting stuck over their lifespan. LOVE the channel man, keep up the good work.
You are 100% right it’s really hard to explain the difference to people without running both in a thousand scenarios to feel it for yourself
@@DieselCreek I really love this video. If I go get one, I want to get your exact setup. I won't earn enough money with it to replace rubber tracks and I'll use the finesse of H/Case controls.
One other thing I’d have mentioned is most Bobcat machines I’ve ever seen use a big belt to run from the flywheel to the hydraulic pump, and they can break. Case machines of the same size (1840,1845) are direct drive off the crank pulley. An easy way to tell is Generally if a machine has a transverse (side to side) mounted engine it’ll be belt driven, but if it’s a longitudinal mounted engine it’s likely direct drive. Both have their advantages, for instance starters are far easier to change on the transverse setups.
My 763 is a 1999 model that I bought from a Bobcat dealer in 2003. Standard foot controls and a normal arc lift. I have well over 1000 hours in the seat and I have yet to have an issue with the arc lift. A lot of the time was with forks too. I see the "advanced" instruments as just more to break and the mechanics I talked to feel the same way but it is totally personal preference. I agree it is a machine that once you have one, you never want to be without it. We are in the high desert and it is dry a lot. We are looking to move to Georgia so tracks will be in order. Blowing out the air filter, yep, I do it all the time but only from the inside out to prevent blowing dirt through the filter.
CAT dealers sell $15 mailer test kits for hydro oil/motor oil/antifreeze... 3 day turn around. Draw correctly to avoid contamination (not out drain plug). Tests help decide if machine is a problem child with unusual wear metals, or if you can run the oil a while longer before changing... Tests save $$$. Just passed on a 2018 466.6 hour Bobcat S570 with "large particles" in hydro system according to CAT lab... particles can be just one particle and jam a piston in hydro system and voila, you're down and out in a blizzard or stranded at job site. It's worth the test.
I'm a Mechanic and Even I blow out air filters to save money When it's time and blowing it out don't get it clean to my liking then I replace won't harm any machine or even automotive vehicle to blow out filters to get a bit more service life out them don't matter if it's equipment or heavy equipment or Automotive vehicles air filters are not cheap I agree with you Matt 30:28 @Diesel Creek
Oh god. Algae in the fuel. I was an M2 Bradley turret mech in the Army in the 90s. We fueled up half a dozen M2 Bradleys from a contaminated fuel tanker on Stewart on a field op on base. We had to pull the fuel tanks out and replace them. Unfortunately, they're located under the turret floor. As the battalion turret services mechanic, I had to prep each of these machines for turret removal in the field.
Once the turret was out, hull mechanics came in and replaced the tanks and did whatever else they needed to do to kill the problem. Once that was done, I was on tap to reinstall the turrets. It was a total fucking nightmare.
Long story short, if you think you _might_ have an algae problem, hit it hard, hit it fast, hit it _immediately._ The longer you wait, the more work and money you're going to have to throw at it to cure the problem, and you could end up replacing the _entire_ fuel system, from tank to injector.
Do _not_ fuck around if you think you have an algae issue. It's like the clap, but for diesel vehicles.
Hahaha, that was a great analogy, MrLes Berg, that algae in the fuel system was like the clapp. I don't think any young folks know about that VD term today since diseases today seem to have gotten so high tech😅. Great analogy, brother. I served with 2nd Tank Bn, Camp Lejeune, NC back in 88. I was not a tanker but loved being a part of the unit as a support officer. Our Marine tankers went to many army schools. Just loved the relationship. The Tiger Brigade (TB) was attached to our 2nd Marine Division during the Gulf War. They gave me one of their patches which I fondly covet. Later, brother. 👍🏽🙂
Great Video. I recently purchased a 2008 S185 from a guy that I had do some high lift work for me. After watching him every day greasing his high lift and he wouldn't move it for 20 minutes after the first start of the day. Before mentioning of his skid steer for sale he said he's always done that with all of his machines to get fluids warming up. I felt good about buying it as it is my first skid steer. It has the Bobcat brand over the tire tracks, foam filled tires which I have read it helps with counter balance but can also give a rougher ride. Heat/ac, hi flow option for the auxiliary attachment and a 7 pin connector. It has the joystick controls and has the option of ISO or H. I definitely like the ISO better. All of the pins are tight as I have been around some poorly maintained machines and have noticed worn pins on them. I am still learning about it and like watching videos such as this one. I've discovered that there is a 1000/2000 hour filter change and one of them being a cooling fan motor filter.
Thanks Matt, u check them over just like I do. The other thing I do is look and smell the hydraulic fluid to see if its dirty or burnt. Great video hear.
Ahh! A great tip!!
I would also be a little wary of a machine with fresh paint, or "just gone through".
Having ran both tracks and tires, if you can find a Bobcat A770 I would recommend checking it out. Being able to switch from skid steering to 4 wheel/ all wheel steering is a lot more handy than you might think. As the all wheel steering keeps you from tearing up turf and tires when running on turf or concrete/asphalt. They all have their strengths, but air filled tires don't beat you up as much as tracks.
I’m about to buy my first used skid steer I’m happy I found this video thank you for sharing your knowledge
What did you get?
S185 means it has a rated operating capacity of 1850 lbs. T190 means it has a rated operating capacity of 1900lbs. Hope that helps you with how they numbered the older units. There is grease zerks for the handles on the quick attach on the side.
To bad they don’t follow that anymore. Imagine a t870.... now that would be a machine!
i own a T190 and its a BOSS! with a root grapple it gets what i want done.
@@davesilvia9711 t190’s were great units. Probably the most commonly sized unit sold
back then too.
@@stedder8436 for the size of the machine its got what it takes to do most jobs done, i mainly use it around my sawmill.
Very close and right just missing the letter designation. The S185 meant it was a skid with 1850# roc the T190 meant it was tracked @ 1900# roc the A series being the a220 and A300 were all wheel steer @ 2200# and 3000# . It made way too much sense so they went and changed them all after the K series machines I have no idea why.
Thanks for the video. I am looking to buy my first skid steer and now I know a whole lot more than I did one hour ago. The info you provided will make an excellent mix with my mechanical experience on cars, zero turn mowers, etc. But, this will be a whole new game. Thanks again.
I'm from PA. I've been in Excavation for almost 20 years. It's a bob cat no matter what brand it is, or just call it a skid steer hahahaha. Tracks are the best.
Just thought I'd comment on the worn bush on your Bobtach plate. Bobcat do in fact sell those bushes separately. It does however still require you to grinding off the old worn bush, then re-weld the new one back on. It's an easier solution to having them welded up and jig bored back to size I think. Nice videos by the way :o)
Thats a very awesome demo of the bobcat skid loader. I thought it was sophisticated machine but the demo proved otherwise Matt. It proves that its the machine to have, too bad i cant afford one. Thanks for all the facts and the demonstration man.
Nice video. I have a 2000 863g bobcat and it's been a tank of a machine. I bought the machine for winter time and it's been great. I went to the bobcat dealer to check on a new machine and the 1st think they asked was if I was going to trade in my machine. They said that there is a waiting list for the older ones that dont have any emissions on them. They are going for a premium price because the new ones are not that good. The new "r" models with the new cast arms are up to debate. Also the prices are now up into the upper prices and alot of people cant justify the price.
Your soil type is the biggest factor in choosing track vs. tire. If you are working in sand or wet clay tracks are the best way to go.
One other good thing about ISO controls is that if you have an attachment that requires an operator to be outside the cab, like a backhoe attachment, you can just lean into the cab and move around a bit when you need to work down a ditch. Not that I've ever done that....
Great overall review. One thing I think should have been mentioned is the different style doors available on skid steers. There are two basic types.
An overhead style you simply lift up and down like a garage door, or
A swing door that open outward like a car door.
The over head style I like much better as you can open the door while having something loaded on your forks. Most times a swing door can’t open because the items on the forks is obstructing the swing door from opening. You end up putting down the load and backing up just so you can get out.
The other thing is I find most people will remove the swing style door (to get around the issue mentioned above as well as making the cab cooler) then they usually store it someplace not readily available when you might want it, like when out on a job and bad weather strikes, you now have no door to close.
With the overhead door, it’s always there. Leave it up when desired and close it when needed.
Overall you did a great job. Thanks for your videos
Unless the lock pins rattle out of the raise door and it is 60 miles to the store.
Bad thing about the overhead door is it rattles like all hell once you get hours on a machine.
i brought a s130 bobcat a few months ago it has been really handy cleaning up all the junk my Dad had collected and doing a little landscaping.
Then only thing i've really had to fix on mine was when the oil cooler line blew off... i had to get a stc seal kit to fix it and then refill the hydraulic oil.
i serviced it a bit aswell
wow. TMI for me, but my "buy used and fix it" neighbors would love this video. I did enjoy the interior tour; I've never been inside a skidsteer and have wondered how hard it would be to operate.
Here in Portugal we call it bobcat or mini shovel loader
I didn't read all the comments so someone could have already mentioned this. but one thing you didn't mention is to check for excessive blow by, by pulling up/out the dipstick/ or the oil filler cap. ( seeing how much smoke comes out, to check for bad rings. )
other then that great vidjayo.
The concrete contractor who poured my floor had a tracked machine. He wasn't very happy with the maintenance expense over his wheeled machine. I'm not overly knowledge on the differences. Agreed I don't think I could live without a bobcat. Great machines and a good video!
I prefer mini-skid steers and mini-loaders to skid steers mainly due to the inability to safely exit the machine with the bucket raised. I think JCB makes a single arm side entrance model that negates that. Mini skids are best for sketchy operation as it is easiest to bail from. Mini loaders can also run a cab for weather but have a better power to weight ratio than skid steers and, if articulated, tear up the ground less. Great overall machine buying video.
What a great tutorial and informational Video Matt on what to look for when buying a Skidsteer 8:00 @Diesel Creek
Man this information is worth it's weight in gold! Planning on buying a machine by year's end and this is gonna be crazy helpful. Thank you sir. Be well and take care.
Awesome, thank you for this video! I am moving to a new home where I will finally have a larger amount of land (1 acre... very small compared to your place, but way more than the city-ish place I live now), and I have been slowly acquiring larger and larger machines/engines and having to jury-rig 2x6s and have friends help move air compressors or generator sets or whatever else, and/or having stuff taking up space in my van is getting old VERY fast.... I would LOVE one of these machines (or a forklift if I can score a deal... but prefer the versatility of the skid steer) and will be on the lookout on CL/marketplace... thank you for all of your insight, this is very helpful.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ! I had watched a number of vids on used skid steers and ctls . And decided to go with CAT . Picked a used machine from their rental fleet. A 2018 , 239D with 2500 hours on it. Signed for it. It was out on rental and that job was staging tower sections and parts , up on a glacier in the Chugach Range , upper Cook Inlet . Alaska. The rental was complete . But they lost the weather window to fly it down off the glacier to the highway .
So NC Machinery Fairbanks offered me a new 2023 , 239D3 . Which i bought and brought home . Amazing machine . Not too big but plenty big enough for my small firewood business. Originally I was thinking something like a CASE UniLoader or an 1840 ect. Smaller than what i got. Maybe someday ill get an older , smaller machine . This is a great vid for all the thing's to look for for buying a used machine . Which unfortunately are expensive here in interior Alaska.
I like how you put a roof between two storage containers. Nice cheap(er) barn, with out of the weather storage on either side.
Thanks! all the videos of the build are on the channel!!
@@DieselCreek I'll check em out
Just an FYI for you. I bought a 773 (think it was 2002, the last year of the old numbering) for $16,000 maybe 12-14 years ago. Bought a used 709 excavator attachment (I see you have the attachment brackets on your boom arms) for $3,000 a couple years ago. Sold the whole thing this summer for 25K. Amazing how those went up in value. (sold to buy a T595 - love it!)
Good job on your showcase what to look for. The operator certainly needs to fix his machine soon because the bucket tilt cylinders might yet just be in the bushings. If so he will get by with low cost. The bogy also needs immediate attention. I think you need to spray some of that black rustoleum paint on you hydraulic cooler to stop bad things
Put an ad up for Farmall parts on Craigslist and FB Marketplace and you’ll sell the tires/rims if they hold air (tires are expensive), wheel weights, rad, fenders, fuel tank, tin work if it’s not mashed, head if it’s good, rearend, and the wide front.
This is very informative DC, thanks for taking your time to educate some of us, i have learnt a lot.
I will say, from a LOT of experience that Bobcat machines have EXCELLENT dealer support . I can get just about ANY part I needed for my 20 year old 763. Simple stupid non turbo. I have the same tracks....make it a WHOLE new machine. Other advantage to tire machine is you can mount a 9-10' snow plow and use TIRE CHAINS. Tracks are not great in snow.
No they are like big ice skates haha but fantastic in deep mud!
@@DieselCreek I bought my Grousers for the same money as you off Craigslist as well. .. lol
Doosan owns then now. They got rid of the Kubota engines and Doosan is putting their own engine in it. Not a fan. Have heard of lots of issues with their new machines.
@@kg6981 many "new" machines i won't touch. I look for some old dead guys cream puff. Bought a JD 970 w/ 450 hours. Sat in a garage for 20 years.
I am selling mine. It is an ASV posi-track 50 horsepower, 650 hours. Perkins Diesel Engine. The tracks are still new. We have only used it to push the snow out of the driveway. I think it was an overkill because I am not into construction. It has been in our garage, not outside. The price may be negotiable $ 48 to 50,000 dollars. It comes with its bucket, hardly used. Other details can be given The machine will be sold as is. We have changed the battery every two years to a brand new one to keep it ready for the winter. We also bought the grapples if you are interested in getting it.
I interned at bobcat back in the Ingersoll-rand days, and can tell you what the numbering means. S= Skidsteer T=Track and A=All wheel steer(these were uncommon turf machines). The number is the approximate rated lift capacity, missing the zero on the end. Your S185 is rated for about 1850lbs of lifting. Because track machines are slightly heavier, and more stable, they have more lift capacity, so the same size unit with tracks would be rated more, hence the T190 (rated for 1900lbs)
I was a service tech for 9 years and part my job was writing work warning letters for the equipment owners and got say you done great job letting future buyers on what to look out for If i was still in that type work your video would be on my job-site for all buyers ! I serviced mostly big trucks and forklifts Rv's anything that came in got the service over-site as a free inspection and gave us many future job's !
in my opinion, I think The case 1845c Is definitely Worth Buying I've had one for about 3 years now done regular oil changes And it still purs like the day I got it And I will say the Tires I run I don't get Stuf though I'm considering some wheel tracks
Those are pretty good old machines, the 4 BT Cummins is hard to beat
Wow great Vajayo! I am a newb to owning this type of equipment and just bought a 22 year old ( low hour) TLB. You did a great job of explaining everything here and how to look at a piece of equipment. I don't have anyone to tech me this stuff as I am a home gamer on a few acers of land. Thank god for youtube and people like like you who can teach us this stuff!!!!
What do you call low hours ? 🤔
@@bustersmith5569 It is a Kubota L4200 with under 1600 hrs. on it so at 20+ years old I wld call it low hours for the age? Most of the tractors I saw on market were 4000 hrs.
.
Thanks. This really gave some insight as what to look for when buying a used Bobcat skid steer. I sure would like to have one. The wife saw me watching all these skid steer videos and wondered if that was going to be my next "oh honey, surprise" purchase. I won't until I learn more what to look for. 👍🏽🙂
it's hard to sneak a skid steer home where the wife doesn't see it. believe me I tried
@@madtater5948 Hahaha, so true, Mad tater. I would have loved to have heard your explanation when you were stammering to get words out your mouth 😅. Have a fine week, mad tater. 👍🏽🙂
good info. i like the vertical lift also, seems to reach over in the bed of a truck to load easier.
Less chance of getting a lap-full of material.
At my old job ISO controls were called english, and H-pattern was spanish. I still prefer spanish controls for grading.
Regarding seals: A penguin driving his car notices that the oil pressure light is on. He gets out to look and sees oil dripping out of the motor. He drives to the nearest town and stops at the first gas station.
After dropping the car off, the penguin goes for a walk around town. He sees an ice-cream shop and, being a penguin, decides that something cold would really hit the spot. He gets a big dish of ice cream and sits down to eat. Having no hands he makes a real mess trying to eat with his flippers. After finishing his ice cream, he goes back to the gas station and asks the mechanic if he's found the problem. The mechanic looks up and says "It looks like you blew a seal."
"No no," the penguin replies, "it's just ice cream."
Fantastic 👍🏼😂
Heh, so this is the "cleaned up" (and with a lot of unnecessary detail) version of this joke. The more og version has to do with Eskimos and frost
1.4K+👍's up DC thanks again for taking us all along with you for the great show
Impressive I’d like to get a skid loader primarily for snow removal. I’d also like to work it for passive income! I’ll stay tuned.
Maybe another video given the basics on what to look for and the instrument panels. On your other video you spoke about error codes! That would be good info. What is a good “try out” exercise for a skid steer? And price to expect for different types and ages.
im a happy T190 owner, wide track and heat and A/C.
I definitely prefer the foot controls, I think it’s neat you actually have an option with this machine. The John Deere I operated a few years ago, you didn’t have that option. I’ve operated both hand and foot, love the foot.
I ran a bobcat with foot controls for a week and almost couldn't walk when done. My legs too long, feet too big, or something was out of whack. It was a workout. ... Of course might have nothing to do with running a hammer pointing downhill until the whole machine would slide off, drive around, point downhill, repeat. 😆🙄👍
Joysticks are the way to go. Way easier on your body and not getting foot pedals stuck with mud/dirt.
@@kg6981 When buying used, the foot controls will be a lot less money. I bought mine on a smaller budget.
I REALLY enjoy these videos because I'm looking to pick up used equipment for the farm. Enjoyed your dozer video as well. Already have a crawler loader and backhoe. Looking for a skid steer to do the smaller jobs faster. Even used, this equipment is very expensive so we need to know what to look for with hopes of avoiding a money pit. Thanks for taking the time to make these review videos.
Just FYI if the paint does bother you one of the easiest ways to save money on production is paint so if you had the time or money you can heavy primer and paint it with quality paint and it'll last a long time reason rust spots show up so fast is cheap. Paint cracks water gets in starts rusting under the paint then it all flakes away... Good paint is pretty much always worth it weather your going to sell it in ten years or keep it for 20
Man that was fantastic! It’s been 15 years since I used that and similar Bobcats, excellent refresher course. I’m in the market for a similar one! Thanks
Very good information. I am looking at a used machine in about the same condition as yours with a grapple and a bucket. I think it will do what I need it to do.
SW Ohio here, need a skidsteer in the worst way but hard trusting anyone around me here and I don't know enough to protect myself from a money pit. This video helped a lot as I feel a bit more confident now but still really Leary about the prices of these machines. I don't mind having an old piece of iron here that works and completes the task despite the looks, but I am stuck looking for machines that only a mechanic should really be looking into and I am no mechanic. So each year I push back obtaining this one tool that could really be a homestead changer. I rent now and try to get a thousand tasks done in the day or tow I have the machine. Not ideal but a guy has to do what he can with what he has. Still looking here in Ohio.
Stop being scared.
Up here in the mountains where we have snow pretty much year round we for sure need tracks. Even tires with chains aren't very good.
Nice points to watch for when looking at skid steers !
A pressure washer can be used to your advantage. Repeated greasing is necessary but the residual grease traps dirt and that eventually adds to the wear. A dirty machine left outside will go downhill fast. If you want to just jump on your machine use it and shut it down then save your money for the new one that you will eventually need. Do not get it out of your mind that someone is selling that machine for a reason.
They are a great machine to have around any job site however I disagree that it's the most versatile machine to have, I believe the most versatial machine would have to be the farm tractor with the 3 pt hitch and PTO both front and rear.
Very limited height of lift with skid steer compared to conventional machines.
Conventional loaders are more versatile especially combined with conventional tractor. Imo
Yep that style of tracks are the best I think also guy can go anywhere with those I've had both kinds
Do a cleaning video of the bobcat that would be nice to see
I think the tracks of your skid steer sounds awesome! Reminds me of an old M4 Sherman tank! 😄A friend of mine just got a Kubota SVL75 for his business and I might think he loves that machine more than his wife! 😄
It’s hard to judge a man for that lol
we have a 495 bobcat track. .nice machine.. keep those tracks adjusted and u be fine.. I noticed it's better to run 90 degree couplings bc if u don't u can slam attachments into the remote hook ups
Yup we call all skid steer loaders bobcat,no matter who makes em
yep, just as all high velocity turning tool is a "dremel", best example is LEGO for plastic building blocks
This is kinda like an episode of hoarders where we see how the mess got there in the first place....he had a bobcat! ;-)
Your right. I laughed for a split second then realized that was my life 🤣🤣
I still have a bobcat key that works in any bobcat
Very informative - especially about the controls. Was always curious about how those worked.
With ISO, that is how you control each track, its a little less intuitive, but you just have to get the muscle memory for it.
What a great video Appreciate the information was looking at a skidsteer for Lifting Cabs or bodies off vehicles for easier repairs 45:03 @Diesel Creek
Been binge watching all your vids love them and love the area you live. Keep them coming. Cheers from Australia.
hello from Tennessee , Autralia :) th-cam.com/video/HgcZfEfntHc/w-d-xo.html this is tn
Those piston seals are real simple. 10 minute job once you get the piston off machine . Only concern should really be is getting the getting the main seal cap off. Those smaller ones usually spin right off. If not some heat usually does the trick.
That Kubota engine is one of the best. I had a Gehl skid steer at my place of work and when we traded it in the engine had 9000. Hours on it a lot of hours for a small diesel engine. 😮
The sound of them tracks is music to my ears :D thanks for taking the time to do this video. Very informative.
I traded a Ford loader tractor for a Case 1830 skid steer that tuned out as another money pit. The guy I traded to put two new cylinders on the loader and sold it for $4800 in a month.
Let me say up front I am not an equipment mechanic but was an auto mechanic for 20+ years.
What I got was a well used Case 1830 that only had a 28 hp. engine that needed repairs, full tune up and carb gone through. I also had to remove the cab to repair a drive chain that broke as I was parking it one day and found both sides filled with water. It finally thew a rod in less than a year and the radiator leaked.
I had no choice and finally decided on a diesel engine for $1500 plus shipping. That engine was slightly larger so I had to modify the skid steer and the mounting for the hydraulic pump.That meant a new plate that was made at a machine shop ($100 ) and $200 to the welding shop for other work.
I had that engine in and out about six times to put in new motor mounts and line up the hydraulic pump. Then there was the problem of the linkage for the controls that took a while to get working, cut the floor out to access the oil filter and oil drain;
This took a couple months and when I got it going again it was three times the skid steer I traded for and about $3000 out of my pocket. When I sold it it needed the lift cylinders replaced as they were leaking.
Now I am haunted that I sold it and my trailer for $7200 and have nothing to work with now. as usual I needed the money at the time but I still lost on that deal. Now I have been looking for over a year and there are none I can afford around my area.
Thanks Matt, enjoy your explanation of your equipment and maintenance. Always interesting.....
of all the skid loaders out there the one that seemed to be among the the best best midsized was the JCB robot, I like the side door entrance for one thing and that new JCB they have come out with is like swiss army knife in bigger machines bobcat has a great one
Been using a JD2240 4X4 with loader, just bought a Cat 246C skid. I'm struggling to get use to climbing in over the bucket. Many times working on projects I need out to deal with something lifted in the loader. Can't get out of the cab unless I lift the load up 7' and climb out underneath. Other than that I'm loving the machine. Thanks for the video, it gave me some tips for when I looked at the Cat initially.
I always liked operating those machines, they can be fun. Thanks for the info!
@ 10:45, if that hole gets sloppy, I would bore it oversize and put an O/S bushing in it, before I would weld and re-drill. I can't imagine how many things like that I have worked on with 35 years as a machinist.
You forgot wheel bearings and leaking axle seals. Winter project is front left on my NH L555.
Yes I thought of that when I was uploading this!!
And drive chains and/or final drives for track machine. Blow by on the engine.
When checking the pumps without pressure and flow equipment there are a few good ways to do this depending on what type a machine it is and if it’s a wheel machine what type wheels or tracks it might have added.
First when you are going to look at a perspective machine take two blocks of wood 1 foot long and about 8” tall at the widest (it can be 8” , 6”+2”, or two 4”) you lift machine up in front with bucket and tilt up as far as you can place the blocks under the machine just in front of rear axle let machine down till rear axle lifts off ground and front axle remains off ground. You can now check the drive motors for free play, rock the axles for loose bearings and check drive chains. For flow place a mark on both tracks and run them
1 min each side. They should be fairly close on the amount of revolutions per min. (With one one to two max) same with track machine. At this point you can check for excessive case drain as well the drive motors should be warm to touch (Luke warm not scalding hot ) if they are excessively hot you motor or the pumps are on the way out or are in need of resealing and repair. This should be checked before running the drives/pumps over relief to check pressure on motors and pumps. once speed and flow is checked then run the drives over relief “gently” first. You can put machine back on ground and use the block or a other smaller block to bind the drives one at a time first low idle and gently push in to it to check to see if it stalls. It should pull engine down if it doesn’t then it’s worn out or the relief(s) is stuck in bypass. A pilot controlled machine can also be checked at low idle for control leaks in this way. So you need to understand how the machine works to an extent to get the most out of these test. IE a machine that don’t stall at low idle may also have pot control issues in the manifold but you hav to understand the systems some. After low idle the check and pull it in gently against a block or pile of something and see if both sides stall about same time and that they don’t stall to early indicating weak hydros or bad pumps.
Flow for main hydraulics works the same way run them gently over relief to make sure each pulls the engine down some but. It excessively (these aren’t eg drive motors they shouldn’t kill the machine unless your operating something off the high flow side) At this time of there is two of you have one person hold the machine over relief and feel the cylinders (after about 30sec) check cylinders in locations around where the pistons should be at this time checking for the cylinder to e noticeably warmer at that point. ( if it is the cylinder is leaking and needs repacked or piston is loose ) after checking the reliefs run them through full range of motion at least three times check for binding in controls and loader/bucket. after third time either you get out or other person checks the cylinder again this again checks the seals and also now the anti-cavitation valves if they have them (most modern loaders do they are located at the base of the cylinder piston on lift arms) again checking areas where the piston should be they shouldn’t be excessively warmer than the rest of the cylinder and the barrel end of cylinder shouldn’t be excessively warmer than rod end by much. Neither should be exceedingly hot to touch just warm
Of course the thick iron makes a difference with catastrophic oxidation time. But the difference between these and a car in winter areas is mostly salt. If you're doing snow removal with these and DEFINITELY if you're running a salt spreader or doing areas where chloride is used its going to rust through just as fast unless you're washing it down before parking it every time
I drove an elgin eagle street sweeper for many years and we always blew out the filters every couple of days,they would get real bad if the town we were cleaning was really bad
Was looking for a small front end loader when I got offered a New Holland L775. Bit of dealing later, I owned an L775. High flow, and two speed. Vertical lift compared to radial lift does make a difference. Post holes, pallets, and a few I can't remember, vertical lift is sweet. And I think it has a solid 8 foot dump height. But, i still should have gone with a front end loader tractor. My 775 doesn't have an enclosed cab, and winters are still kinda cold...... I envy your heater.
I had a simple vinyl enclosure with a door on an a machine 15 yrs ago. I was impressed at how much engine heat I was able to conserve with that. It's a good low dollar investment solution for open station machines.
Lots to think about and as much research one can dig up about the type of machine your thinking about buying may save you big $$$ thank you Sir you did a fine job pointing out various parts that need servicing or wore out.
S185 stands for max weight 1850 lbs lifting capacity back then. T190 is 1900 lbs, now the newer designation numbers means nothing now refering to max lift capacity anymore.
My wife says no. I'm going to buy one anyway... I'll let you know how it works
Easier to beg for forgiveness than ask permission lol
Well what did she say?
It must not have worked out 😂😂😂
The skid loader or the marriage?
@@Nunyabizn3ss 😂😂 yes
I bought a machine back in the 70's and it was a first of its kind to us anyway. I own it so first to drive off the delivery trailer. I backed it off alright, foot controls for the bucket and hand controls for the tires, I think this is a good time to point out it had no cabin.... all open to weather and not a big deal as it was for moving sawdust away from the tail spools in the mill. I drive it up to the pile of spalt and sawdust.. make a kinda good scoop and then back away. I forgot that my feet controlled the lift on the bucket and am looking backwards as I move away from conveyor to dump said materials. I must of went a good twenty feet back and not looking forwards at all as I knew everything was okay or so thought! I had been pushing on those peddle's and they were still going on up an I wasn't adjusting the bucket to keep level so it was following the plane of the lift arms..... the next thing I feel is all that sawdust pouring over my head and a few spalts hit my head as well not feeling good at all... no bucket cover on my head either, a big no no on a machine set up like that. I get off and remain calm and looked at the crew and said "you see what I did wrong, don't do that or that will happen and could hurt you bad!" I sauntered off like that was what I intended and went about business in the mill while the others returned to different jobs and a guy was learning the machine... when no one was looking, ducked into the restroom and took care of scrapes and bruises. A real humble way to start with one.
We all have our embarrassing moments, you’re just lucky it was sawdust and not softball sized rock. Back when I was learning I’ve dumped my share of rock on top of the cab.
Those old models had 1 and 2 cly. wisconson air cooled engines and the speed selector was trip. but they got the job done.
Most used tool/ not started in 3 weeks. lmao. Love the content, keep up the good work.
man im looking forward to owning my first skidsteer.
i love my bobcat, its a 7753, i traded two 40ft shipping containers for it, came with a regular bucket, 4 in 1 bucket, set of forks and a backhoe, it had been used at a chicken farm and was never cleaned, sat before i bought it for many years, the pins for the quick connect were locked up solid and i had to cut the bucket off and then cut the pins out, that was only an afternoon to fix really, i replaced one hose and all the belts, the fuel tank has a rubber bung that fails and the fuel line drops off into the tank on this model, so i just run a jerry can on the side for fuel now, the fuel solenoid doesn't always work so i might switch it to a cable, it is mostly a toy for me, one day i'm going to sit down and design a track system for it on autocad, i have some ideas.
Sir, it was and awesome vedio and outstanding information. I salute you sir knowledge is power.
So nice of you
I`m a track hoe operator but danged if I can run a skid steer with joy sticks. after having a taste of them our shop went on a shopping spree to buy cats with the traditional steering. One thing a lot of people don`t know is that most cats have a self leveling feature in the boom for back dragging just kick the right pedal once.
really? I just test drove a used model today and it was my first time in a skid steer. do you tap the right foot pedal to the floor?
@@zedwpd Once to floor to engage then again to disengage. Note the self level only works on back dragging.