If many of you don’t know this machine is for when a system has a small evap leak which can cause you to fail emissions so this is very helpful if you have any issues it will help save close to $60 to $140 based on shop prices for a diagnostics so thanks dude for the upload! 😊
I used a professional smoker when I was a tech..No one else in the shop knew what to do with it..invaluable for EVAP...Im retired now and often wish I had one....now I can!
There are a lot of videos out on this. Thank you for yours. By far the most detailed without a bunch of annoying background add-ins. I followed your video with two alterations. I used 4 ohms of resistance and used some small jumper cables for power. FYI: After making this it took me about 5 minutes to find the leak in my BMW. Thanks!
I don't know why some people gave this video a thumbs down, I found it to be very informative and just plain genius! There were times I had the need for a smoke generator but I wasn't going to spend over a $100 or more for one as opposed to what, $20 ?
Awesome build man. I made one of these but instead of using a air compressor I mounted a $20 Walmart fish tank air pump on the top and use it to pump air inside.
@@martinbuilt As a Fisherman I was thinking of one of these and they are battery operated www.walmart.com/ip/Marine-Metal-Baby-Bubbles-Air-Pump/37825661?athcpid=37825661&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=3b135fef-007-179e18d60f54bc&athancid=null&athena=true
Thank you for the plans for this excellent and effective, yet inexpensive aid. The only added expense that I had was for the closet flange, knockout plug, baby oil, and wick. I had everything else in odds and ends laying around. I modified it by adding a pressure regulator fitting at the compressor inlet end, a quick disconnect fitting for the smoke tube, and two electrical connector wingnuts so that i can easily remove them for storage. Otherwise it follows your design exactly and works very well. Thanks again for saving me a bunch of dough!!!!!
I just found this video and it’s incredible! With my authority as an official TH-cam commenter, it is my pleasure to name you the Bob Ross of auto mechanics 🎉
This was the easiest an most effective tool for testing leaks. Others probably work good also but this was easy. Found my leaks that I was fighting for a week. Good job who ever came up with... I used my battery charger to control the current.
Currently making one now with my boyfriend . Our welding wire we used cought fire so we tried another type . Way to strong. We r gonna get the correct wire when the store opens. Very easy to build and fun to make . Can’t wait to see our final product. We spent about 50 bucks getting everything from Home Depot. May have been less expensive somewhere else.
I believe that is from the "leak detection pump". You don't need to remove the bumper to replace. I've done several of them. Just make sure to put the evap hoses back where they go, or you'll get the code back again... Don't ask how I know. LOL. You do the best stuff, Martin!! Now I need to build one myself.
I built this today after I was literally on the way to get an emissions test, and my WJ threw a P0422 code. None of my usual trusted shops could get me in before late next week to do a smoke test, and there was no visual issues I could see on any hoses. It took about $30 in parts from the nearby Ace Hardware and 20 minutes to put together (actually less, as I had a few of the pieces already). It took about 10 seconds to start producing smoke, and I found the source of the evap leaks immediately. Absolutely worth the money and time to do this; even if I did take it to a shop with a smoke machine, it would have probably been a $100 or more diagnostic charge. Just a tip, go ahead and remove the rear bumper cover and drop down the evap cluster (three 13mm bolts) to make pinpointing it easier.
What he said... was it the canister or hose? Did you remove the bumper cover or just the wheel liner? Nice build. I built it today and found my leak... only after I broke the plastic tube trying to disconnect them to plug this smoke in....
A 1/2" diameter wick has a _circumference_ of roughly 1.5". So , 30 inches of wire will wrap around 20 times. Or 10 wraps by the halfway mark . With a 4" pvc pipe that's 5 wraps per inch. So pretty close to each other. You can kind of visualize it in your mind. Just thought this might be helpful to someone. Great build , Martin. It's cheap and easy enough, I think I'll preemptively make one and there by guarantee I'll never have a situation where it'll be used. Reverse Murphys Law. If you buy a specialty tool before you need it .... you'll never need it. The second you get tired of seeing it laying around and going to waste and sell it . . .
Just fyi. It's going to come out the opposite end at the vent solenoid. You need to use a bi-directional scan tool and command the vent closed or jump power to it to close it and find the actual leak... which could be the vent solenoid itself not fully sealing when commanded closed... or anywhere between the purge and vent solenoids.
Built one of these on Sunday to smoke test my VW, at least between the MAF and the throttle body. I like the design far better than all of the DIY smoke jar with a soldering iron sitting in baby oil rags and everything is punched through the top and attached with silicone. A couple of notes and changes I made. - ABS can catch fire and burn, PVC on the other hand will just melt if you're coil is too hot. - The design as it is, can allow the oil to easily travel up the inlet or exhaust hose if you set it down too unevenly or tilt it accidentally while carrying it even with only a small amount of oil in it. I'm going to either change or rebuild mine to have the inlet/outlet for the vinyl tube out of the top for less chance of this happening. The threaded fittings (air compressor or barbs) will probably need a backing grommet and maybe a washer along with a nut for strength since the cap thickness is nowhere near as much as the sides. I'd rather cut an inch of tube off every other time though than deal with the constant mess of oil that's managed to run into the tube by accident or blown into the tube by the compressor though. - One can use a rubber glove to hook up to the intake system directly AFTER your MAF and attach the hose. Use a clamp or tied string to keep it there and a clamp the glove finger you've made a hole in around the hose. The glove also serves as a pressure indicator if you've got a valve on the end of your hose or it is quick to turn off. ;) - Baby/Mineral oil is messy where the smoke touches things. After smoking my vacuum system, fixing the deteriorated hoses, and smoking it again to re-test I noticed there was an oily residue inside my intake hose. Hence use after the MAF. Overall works really well though and all components could be sourced from a couple of the local hardware stores.
That huge leak is likely because the canister vent valve is open. The normal positions for the valves when the car is not running is that the purge valve will be closed and the vent valve will be open. Make sure you either close the vent valve or plug the vent valve tube to seal the system for testing.
@@troyporter3825you would need a high end scanner to close it using odb2, your best is to block or clamp off the vent hose before you perform the smoke test
Awesome video!! Just want to add. If you take fiberglass insulation the itchy puffy kind found in most attics. Add a half inch to the bottom of which ever kind of can you are using. This acts like a sponge and prevents the oil from sloshing around. Like a Zippo lighter.
I made a very small version of this for a 1/200th scale Titanic smoke effect!.....the fact you said the voltage, wire diameter, and resistance in this was awesome! Helped me overcome the issues i was having with ultrasonic discs, gravity feed reservoirs(using same effect as pet water bowl) and reservoirs sealing!
Pressure gauge and a shut of valve this thing is pretty top notch I like the plug so you can add more mineral oil or baby oil as needed too. You got my brain going this morning thanks. Great build and great idea for a diy person with similar stuff lying around
Another good thing you can use for this would be a mixture of propylene glycol and vegetable glycerin (SAME thing in vapes) and then if you wanted to, you could add a flavor to it and really make the shop smell good or even customize the scent. This would be completely nontoxic to breathe as the baby oil is a bit questionable with the fumes being produced. People as myself who have been vaping for a long time can do something like this with no issue. Great video overall.
Thank you much. I made one for checking intakes, but my bothers car had a coolant leak and it worked great for checking that too. It looked like the hose had cracked up near the clamp on the top radiator connector ( hidden under top frame cover ) , but when we smoked it you could see that it was actually the radiator seem right under the hose connector. Saved us from screwing around with a new hose for nothing.
Great build, Mineral oil is best scent free..if you use 24 G Nichrome 80 wire it works excellent and you can also use Fiberglas wick it’ll last for long long time. Love this build simple and very easy to understand. Great job.
I built this and it works. I up-graded and mounted it on a board. I also mounted an automotive suspension system 12VDC air pump with a regulator, instead of using shop air. I left the airline adapter in case of pump failure. An air supply may not always be available. I installed individual lighted rocker switches for the air pump and one for the smoke chamber. The unit wiring runs to a terminal block and through a 30 amp breaker. It is all self-contained. I can send pictures if anyone is interested.
@@julieddoss do you still want the pictures of the upgraded smoke machine? how do i post and send to you? I didn't realize this fearure was available to me. Rick
Very clever and much cheaper than buying the real thing. I have evap leaks on every vehicle I own, and although I don’t much care because it doesn’t cause any problems with drivability, I’ll definitely be trying this out to get rid of the annoying check engine light so I don’t ignore something more important.
Nice build. NOTE: the Spec for OEM smoke machines is to push the smoke with Nitrogen (lawyers involved) but at ONLY 0.5psi or 1mm Hg. I know that too high a pressure can damage some Purge Valves - the one in the engine compartment, usually near the green EVAP test port. If you are smoking the intake manifold for vacuum leaks or the exhaust system, higher pressure is your friend. You can also diagnose air leaks (wind whistles) around doors by putting the HVAC fan on high with the doors closed and smoking around the door seals.
Before clicking to watch, I thought this was going to consist of fog machine parts. Still a clever design. But worth mentioning, it appears you can get both the heating element for about $15 (w/ shipping) and the pump for also about $15 (w/ shipping), then you just add some fog juice, which is designed specifically to give you some good fog/smoke and is pretty cheap. The benefit of this build vs what Martin has would be the option to plug into a wall socket, as well as not need an air compressor since the pump should provide the force needed. Would need testing to verify, but that's my 2 cents in case someone is looking for a smoke machine build but lacks 12V source and/or air compressor. Great video as usual Martin!
I would plan on using much higher resistance that 2.5 ohms. I says this because it will catch the wick on fire. I used about 4.5 ohms and no fire just smoke. Great video
Was searching for this comment. I'm at 3 and had to cycle the power to not catch fire. I think these other guys are going by length like in the video. otherwise good little contraption though.
This worked awesome. You DON'T need an air compressor or regulator. I had an old fish tank air pump laying around and it put's out tons of smoke and perfect pressure. I went to HD and got a hose barb the same size as fish tank air line with the same threads as the NPT fitting in the video and screwed it in the same way. I also hooked up an air chuck at the end of the main smoke hose. Then connect a cheap blow off tool with the cone shaped rubber tip and on/off lever. The cone shaped rubber tip fits perfectly in the car's line for an airtight fit.
Top-- quality build on the GET SMOKING device-! I hope I can do as good when I do that build, I definitely need one, I thank you for the fine GET SMOKING machine build, I can only say WOW! VERY NICE VERY NICE
Thanks, this will be very useful. I am a little concerned about the way you arrived at your wire resistance with your meter. I believe if you took current readings you would find that you have significantly less resistance than you think. Simple meters are not real accurate with low resistances, if you just put your probe tips together how much resistance do you read? Many times it is more than .5 ohms depending on the meter and leads. I would recommend people buy the resistance wire and base the resistance by calculating it from the length of wire they use, that will be more accurate than you can measure with the typical meter. At a minimum subtract your lead resistance from your reading. I appreciate you sharing that with us, it appears to work well.
Very nice! Shouldn't those exposed terminals be insulated? With my luck I'll be concentrating on the leak, knock the smoker over and cause a big spark.
Made one worked great used .042 safety wire and use a cheep air pump 12 volt power wired it to two point for the heater worked great and found my leak thanks!!!!!!
Nice build especially for the home guy. As someone who uses one in a professional environment regularly one of the best features of the commercial units is the flow meter. You can physically see if there is a leak by watching the flow meter while doing things like actuating purge and vent solenoids. You can also pinch off hoses after you e found the suspected leak to make sure there are no other leaks. If you can make a build with an inline flow meter that would be awesome.
I'm a pro (ASE) mechanic and builder/improviser/fixer from way back and this couldn't be easier to build with the parts and some patience as he's very clearly and succinctly shown how to build this tool. Wish I saw it before I had bought a machine. I don't understand for the life of me how/why so many people give this a thumbs down. I'm not sure what they expect, other than it being even easier (not possible) or having him jump through the screen and build it for them. If this video doesn't suit your needs, move on... Don't push your disappointment that it's not exactly what you need onto the video maker. He did everything more than acceptably well. That's what a dislike is for, when the video leaves things out, is over complicated, etc. Not because you don't like his hat or how he talks or walks or whatever. It's not fair to a creator who has done a good job.
Thanks Martin Originally I was looking to buy one, then trying to figure out what made the smoke, to purchase that as well! You answered all my questions in one short, no fluff/ no extra BS video! I definitely need one, and will be using the same design as you did Brew21s I think😁👍
Nice job. I happened to have made the glass jar/soldering iron version that works great. Suggest installing a valve stem and using a bicycle pump to avoid overpressurizing evap components.
This is the best I have seen, great build Martin! the Ohms explanation was just what I needed. Your little smoke machine video now has Amazon selling all those PVC pieces and the exact 12v cord as a package for around $40 USD.
Hey Martin, I've watched a couple contraptions similar to this however I'm particularly fond of this one because of heat conductivity to thick pvc body is far less than when you use a tin paint can. Great job!
Great video, and well thought out tool, thanks. Unfortunately, despite the fact that I used a new propane low-pressure regulator on my air inlet, I immediately developed a leak at the bottom near the test-plug attachment area. Even without the regulator that safety plug would have blown out before that test-plug bottom should have cracked. I had planned on sealing up the top threaded clean-out plug a bit, as there was smoke billowing out of the edges. I was going to then add a threaded fill plug in the clean-out cap for filling. Now I must find a way to clean the oil from around the test-plug and perhaps seal it with epoxy. Even the best laid plans. Tip: Check your closet flange for liquid leaks before gluing the clean-out piece to it. Carumba.
Thank you so much for your demonstration.. Air regulator please, i.e Propan regulator works fine.. Air pressure must not exceed 1 psi, otherwise, will create another leak .. This is a warning with a green tag in my car, DO NOT EXCEED 1psi air pressure. Once again, thank you so much. Two thumbs up.
Great job ! Years ago I made a 'smoke machine' from a 1gal paint can. It's ugly and clumsy but it worked, but after seeing your great job here, mine is going in the trash. I hope I can do nearly as good a job as you did here. Thanks for the share.
Nice video, another alternative is to line the pipe with aluminum tape and use two smoke bombs screw the top, and use an air compressor, shop vac, or Harbor Freights hand pump to have slower control over the smoke to push the air through the exhaust system to check for exhaust leaks. As for vacuum leaks, you can do the same thing and attach it to the intake manifold. I use colorless smoke bombs to avoid color residue from coating my vacuum lines.
Like martin was saying, the distance between each coil of the wire doesn't matter because the whick is acting as an insulator but if you touch the wire at any point it will change your resistance value because it essentially eliminates any resistance value between where it touches. Something else that I would like to point out is when you are talking electricity and resistance values, try to wear gloves because EVERYTHING has a resistance value...it may be negligable but the oils and chemicals you have or may have on your skin can change the resistance value... Electricity is plain weird...
Hey PoP, Please let us know which REGULATOR you get. The only reasonably priced thing I found is a FIXED PROPANE type regulator. But I want an ADJUSTABLE regulator. What kind do you intend to use? Let us know, and also the website link for buying it. Thanx!
The canister close valve is normally open so wouldn't that need to be actuated shut to properly smoke out the evap system to identify the leak? Look forward to the next video 👍thanks for the great content as always Martin!
@@Hedonistic0Frog I see why you may think that but that would build tank pressure and cause gas tank to swell up. The canister vent valve (canister close valve) is always open, until it is time to run evap leak test. The pcm decides when to run the tests and purge the vapors at the same time. Vent valve closes, purge valve opens.
@@kbru78 i agree. There are three ways that i have seen to close them. 1. With a scan tool. If yours can do that. 2. With a pair of visegrips, you can pinch off the rubber hose between the char. canister and the vent valve. If your vehicle is setup that way. Mine is not. 3. My vent valve is attached to the side of the char. can. So I disconnected the 2 lines that feed into and from the can, and looped the feed and return lines from the vehicle together with a foot of rubber hose.
@@Hedonistic0Frog You are Wrong, The vent is always open KOEO How else would you put gas in the tank without an OPEN VENT! The ECU will control the Vent only when doing a pressure or vacuum test of the fuel tank and purge lines. If the vent were closed KOEO all the time the tank pressure would cause a major leak in the FDS and possibly cause a rupture in the FTA or FDS
Hi sir I'm very grateful to you for your time and effort in taking the time to create a great smoke machine for finding bad leaks on motor vehicles I've got a leak on a mk1 focus estate after i done the cambelt water pump and had to replace the cylinder head so i will have to build this smoke machine and hopefully will be able to find out the leak many thanks again Tony
Excelent video, i followed it to the t,but 3 seconds on by firtst try the wick burst in to flames.I had to use a power regulator to control the electric current, it took a few tries.Also i had to install an air flow regulator and a cut off valve. Then succes.Thank you.You saved me 100 bucks.
Thanks for adding the e bay link for the flange. I was able to find one at my local hardware store, but I have a friend who wants to build one and I'm sure he'll get it from e bay.
P0455 on a 2006 dodge ram 1500. New gas cap, checked purge valve, no visible signs of where the leak might be. This is just what I need so I'm off to hardware store. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you for this AWESOME how to video. You're an ACE!! I like how you also list all the items/tools you used to complete this excellent project. Something that's lacking in a lot of other HT videos. However, I'm certain I'm not the Lone Ranger in wanting the info/link for the cutters you used to cut everything with. They look simple, but appear to cut most anything you'd need to cut in other projects as well. Would you be kind enough to add the info/link for them to your Materials List. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge & experience. You're a gem.
I'm not sure if you have had the chance to find the tool and others may see this who need one but it's a combo cutter-crimping tool (yes, they're very handy) but they're available at H.D./Lowes, hardware stores and on line at eBay and tool companies like Klien, etc. Just tell someone what you need and they'll hook you up.
Many thanks for this! Here in the UK, those particular plumbing parts (the flange and adapter) aren't easy to find without special-ordering and they're not all that cheap either (Amazon had a cleanout adapter, but on a 10-day lead time and it cost £20), but my local plumbing supply place was able to find alternatives they had in stock and which worked just as well.
Maybe not the least expensive homemade smoke tester build that I've seen, but definitely the neatest one! I never thought of using a toilet flange for a stand. They use IP flanges for walkway and step railings, but I never made the connection. Thanks for sharing!
I bought the parts today for this. I need to track down leaks in a 1946 Spartan Manor camper. I hope this will help me find the leaks...rivets, holes, seams, etc. Some companies use a big version for that purpose. It costs $399 near my home. If this doesn’t work, I have to haul it over there, which I’d rather not do. I’d gladly pay if they’d come here.
That's the nicest build of a smoke machine I have seen. Curious question:. after that unit has been on for sometime when you are tracking down at leek does the screw terminals not get hot and possibly could melt the PVC ??
I made one and it became very hot after about 5 minutes of continuous use. Going to try and use more wire for more resistance. (Originally was about 2 ohms - 72 watts, going to try 4 ohms @ about 36 watts)
Great video, work no filler. Just straight awesomeness. - I wonder if one could incorporate a fish tank air pump, and make it (1) portable (2) low pressure. Love this!
Way too much pressure in that fuel tank, Martin! Has to be less than 1 PSI Fuel tank pressure sensor is delicate and the tank has a large surface area on which those 5-7 PSI you're using pushes up against.
Its seems like you've put a slight higher pressure into the evaporative system. Be careful you might blow out seals and other components with high pressure, and create more issues later down the road. I would put in a pressure regulator set it to around 1 to 2psi max. Food for thoughts, just make sure the smoke is not leaking through the vent valve because it's a normally open valve, so the vent side needs to be sealed some how. Anyways fantastic job.
"one of the readers out there" LOL "straight acrosssed" only in america Informative, educational, entertaining, dude, keep it up, two thumbs up from this Aussie.
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If many of you don’t know this machine is for when a system has a small evap leak which can cause you to fail emissions so this is very helpful if you have any issues it will help save close to $60 to $140 based on shop prices for a diagnostics so thanks dude for the upload! 😊
I used a professional smoker when I was a tech..No one else in the shop knew what to do with it..invaluable for EVAP...Im retired now and often wish I had one....now I can!
glad you liked it
There are a lot of videos out on this. Thank you for yours. By far the most detailed without a bunch of annoying background add-ins. I followed your video with two alterations. I used 4 ohms of resistance and used some small jumper cables for power. FYI: After making this it took me about 5 minutes to find the leak in my BMW. Thanks!
If it's not leaking, it must not be a BMW. I built one of these today to find a leak in the cold air intake system.
I'm about to build the same to test my basket case of a BMW 😂
@@General3rdLegDon't let ppl give u a hard time about BMW. They're the best runners ever for 1st year. After that they go to shit.
I don't know why some people gave this video a thumbs down, I found it to be very informative and just plain genius! There were times I had the need for a smoke generator but I wasn't going to spend over a $100 or more for one as opposed to what, $20 ?
Awesome build man. I made one of these but instead of using a air compressor I mounted a $20 Walmart fish tank air pump on the top and use it to pump air inside.
Cool idea
@@martinbuilt As a Fisherman I was thinking of one of these and they are battery operated www.walmart.com/ip/Marine-Metal-Baby-Bubbles-Air-Pump/37825661?athcpid=37825661&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=3b135fef-007-179e18d60f54bc&athancid=null&athena=true
Wonder where you get the burner wick??
@@topochitopodrido4885 Home Depot
@@topochitopodrido4885 Home Depot they sell torches for out doors and should have the wick
Great video! No silly music, no life's story, just a way to build a massively helpful tool using off-the-shelf parts.
Thank you very much, glad you liked it!
@@martinbuilt More than liked it, I built one right after watching your video.
I agree
Thank you for the plans for this excellent and effective, yet inexpensive aid. The only added expense that I had was for the closet flange, knockout plug, baby oil, and wick. I had everything else in odds and ends laying around. I modified it by adding a pressure regulator fitting at the compressor inlet end, a quick disconnect fitting for the smoke tube, and two electrical connector wingnuts so that i can easily remove them for storage. Otherwise it follows your design exactly and works very well. Thanks again for saving me a bunch of dough!!!!!
I just found this video and it’s incredible! With my authority as an official TH-cam commenter, it is my pleasure to name you the Bob Ross of auto mechanics 🎉
This was the easiest an most effective tool for testing leaks. Others probably work good also but this was easy. Found my leaks that I was fighting for a week. Good job who ever came up with... I used my battery charger to control the current.
Currently making one now with my boyfriend . Our welding wire we used cought fire so we tried another type . Way to strong. We r gonna get the correct wire when the store opens. Very easy to build and fun to make . Can’t wait to see our final product. We spent about 50 bucks getting everything from Home Depot. May have been less expensive somewhere else.
I believe that is from the "leak detection pump". You don't need to remove the bumper to replace. I've done several of them. Just make sure to put the evap hoses back where they go, or you'll get the code back again... Don't ask how I know. LOL.
You do the best stuff, Martin!! Now I need to build one myself.
Yeah you can just take off the liner
@@ChristKingJesus p
I built this today after I was literally on the way to get an emissions test, and my WJ threw a P0422 code. None of my usual trusted shops could get me in before late next week to do a smoke test, and there was no visual issues I could see on any hoses.
It took about $30 in parts from the nearby Ace Hardware and 20 minutes to put together (actually less, as I had a few of the pieces already). It took about 10 seconds to start producing smoke, and I found the source of the evap leaks immediately. Absolutely worth the money and time to do this; even if I did take it to a shop with a smoke machine, it would have probably been a $100 or more diagnostic charge.
Just a tip, go ahead and remove the rear bumper cover and drop down the evap cluster (three 13mm bolts) to make pinpointing it easier.
Glad to hear it worked out for you, Thanks for your input.
What was it the charcoal canister or one of the hoses?
What he said... was it the canister or hose? Did you remove the bumper cover or just the wheel liner? Nice build. I built it today and found my leak... only after I broke the plastic tube trying to disconnect them to plug this smoke in....
Best smoke machine I've seen ,Thank you for even taking the time to show so many people how to make a decent smoke machine .GOD bless and Thanks.
Thank you!
I concur my good man!
Well done!
A 1/2" diameter wick has a _circumference_ of roughly 1.5". So , 30 inches of wire will wrap around 20 times. Or 10 wraps by the halfway mark . With a 4" pvc pipe that's 5 wraps per inch. So pretty close to each other. You can kind of visualize it in your mind.
Just thought this might be helpful to someone.
Great build , Martin. It's cheap and easy enough, I think I'll preemptively make one and there by guarantee I'll never have a situation where it'll be used. Reverse Murphys Law. If you buy a specialty tool before you need it .... you'll never need it. The second you get tired of seeing it laying around and going to waste and sell it . . .
Thank you, I have bought tools that I have had for years and haven't used them yet but maybe some day.
Just fyi. It's going to come out the opposite end at the vent solenoid. You need to use a bi-directional scan tool and command the vent closed or jump power to it to close it and find the actual leak... which could be the vent solenoid itself not fully sealing when commanded closed... or anywhere between the purge and vent solenoids.
Built one of these on Sunday to smoke test my VW, at least between the MAF and the throttle body. I like the design far better than all of the DIY smoke jar with a soldering iron sitting in baby oil rags and everything is punched through the top and attached with silicone.
A couple of notes and changes I made.
- ABS can catch fire and burn, PVC on the other hand will just melt if you're coil is too hot.
- The design as it is, can allow the oil to easily travel up the inlet or exhaust hose if you set it down too unevenly or tilt it accidentally while carrying it even with only a small amount of oil in it. I'm going to either change or rebuild mine to have the inlet/outlet for the vinyl tube out of the top for less chance of this happening. The threaded fittings (air compressor or barbs) will probably need a backing grommet and maybe a washer along with a nut for strength since the cap thickness is nowhere near as much as the sides. I'd rather cut an inch of tube off every other time though than deal with the constant mess of oil that's managed to run into the tube by accident or blown into the tube by the compressor though.
- One can use a rubber glove to hook up to the intake system directly AFTER your MAF and attach the hose. Use a clamp or tied string to keep it there and a clamp the glove finger you've made a hole in around the hose. The glove also serves as a pressure indicator if you've got a valve on the end of your hose or it is quick to turn off. ;)
- Baby/Mineral oil is messy where the smoke touches things. After smoking my vacuum system, fixing the deteriorated hoses, and smoking it again to re-test I noticed there was an oily residue inside my intake hose. Hence use after the MAF.
Overall works really well though and all components could be sourced from a couple of the local hardware stores.
What am l doing wrong. Used exact parts recommend 2 times and it gets so hot it melts the output hose. Can't touch unit it's very hot.
That huge leak is likely because the canister vent valve is open. The normal positions for the valves when the car is not running is that the purge valve will be closed and the vent valve will be open. Make sure you either close the vent valve or plug the vent valve tube to seal the system for testing.
do you have to use an OBD device to be able to close the valve?
@@troyporter3825you would need a high end scanner to close it using odb2, your best is to block or clamp off the vent hose before you perform the smoke test
Awesome video!! Just want to add. If you take fiberglass insulation the itchy puffy kind found in most attics. Add a half inch to the bottom of which ever kind of can you are using. This acts like a sponge and prevents the oil from sloshing around. Like a Zippo lighter.
Great tip!
Thank you!
I made a very small version of this for a 1/200th scale Titanic smoke effect!.....the fact you said the voltage, wire diameter, and resistance in this was awesome! Helped me overcome the issues i was having with ultrasonic discs, gravity feed reservoirs(using same effect as pet water bowl) and reservoirs sealing!
Pressure gauge and a shut of valve this thing is pretty top notch I like the plug so you can add more mineral oil or baby oil as needed too. You got my brain going this morning thanks. Great build and great idea for a diy person with similar stuff lying around
Another good thing you can use for this would be a mixture of propylene glycol and vegetable glycerin (SAME thing in vapes) and then if you wanted to, you could add a flavor to it and really make the shop smell good or even customize the scent. This would be completely nontoxic to breathe as the baby oil is a bit questionable with the fumes being produced. People as myself who have been vaping for a long time can do something like this with no issue. Great video overall.
Thanks for the tip I'm gonna give that a try. 😎👍
Thank you much. I made one for checking intakes, but my bothers car had a coolant leak and it worked great for checking that too. It looked like the hose had cracked up near the clamp on the top radiator connector ( hidden under top frame cover ) , but when we smoked it you could see that it was actually the radiator seem right under the hose connector. Saved us from screwing around with a new hose for nothing.
That's awesome, glad it's working for you and making troubleshooting much easier.
Great build, Mineral oil is best scent free..if you use 24 G Nichrome 80 wire it works excellent and you can also use Fiberglas wick it’ll last for long long time. Love this build simple and very easy to understand. Great job.
Defective blow drier will have the needed nichrome wire in it!
Rusty The Raver good thinking I forgot about that. I typically buy a roll of 50’ for $4 on eBay works phenomenal
I built this and it works. I up-graded and mounted it on a board. I also mounted an automotive suspension system 12VDC air pump with a regulator, instead of using shop air. I left the airline adapter in case of pump failure. An air supply may not always be available. I installed individual lighted rocker switches for the air pump and one for the smoke chamber. The unit wiring runs to a terminal block and through a 30 amp breaker. It is all self-contained. I can send pictures if anyone is interested.
Yes please
I would some pictures how yrs was build, ty
Love some pictures
@@julieddoss do you still want the pictures of the upgraded smoke machine? how do i post and send to you? I didn't realize this fearure was available to me. Rick
@@julieddoss will try today
I never comment on TH-cam videos, but this was so well done and so helpful I just had to say job well done and thank you!
Thank you for commenting and I appreciate the kind words.
Very clever and much cheaper than buying the real thing. I have evap leaks on every vehicle I own, and although I don’t much care because it doesn’t cause any problems with drivability, I’ll definitely be trying this out to get rid of the annoying check engine light so I don’t ignore something more important.
Thank you for watching. Glad you found it helpful.
Nice build. NOTE: the Spec for OEM smoke machines is to push the smoke with Nitrogen (lawyers involved) but at ONLY 0.5psi or 1mm Hg. I know that too high a pressure can damage some Purge Valves - the one in the engine compartment, usually near the green EVAP test port. If you are smoking the intake manifold for vacuum leaks or the exhaust system, higher pressure is your friend. You can also diagnose air leaks (wind whistles) around doors by putting the HVAC fan on high with the doors closed and smoking around the door seals.
Thanks, Russell, for all the great tips.
Before clicking to watch, I thought this was going to consist of fog machine parts. Still a clever design. But worth mentioning, it appears you can get both the heating element for about $15 (w/ shipping) and the pump for also about $15 (w/ shipping), then you just add some fog juice, which is designed specifically to give you some good fog/smoke and is pretty cheap. The benefit of this build vs what Martin has would be the option to plug into a wall socket, as well as not need an air compressor since the pump should provide the force needed. Would need testing to verify, but that's my 2 cents in case someone is looking for a smoke machine build but lacks 12V source and/or air compressor. Great video as usual Martin!
I would plan on using much higher resistance that 2.5 ohms. I says this because it will catch the wick on fire. I used about 4.5 ohms and no fire just smoke. Great video
the more resistance the hotter it gets. do not take this comment's advice too deeply
Was searching for this comment. I'm at 3 and had to cycle the power to not catch fire. I think these other guys are going by length like in the video. otherwise good little contraption though.
Rofl, I used the suggested wire and ohms and it caught the soaked wick on fire as well ,😂😂.
This worked awesome. You DON'T need an air compressor or regulator. I had an old fish tank air pump laying around and it put's out tons of smoke and perfect pressure. I went to HD and got a hose barb the same size as fish tank air line with the same threads as the NPT fitting in the video and screwed it in the same way. I also hooked up an air chuck at the end of the main smoke hose. Then connect a cheap blow off tool with the cone shaped rubber tip and on/off lever. The cone shaped rubber tip fits perfectly in the car's line for an airtight fit.
Thank you for watching. I appreciate your comment and suggestions, and I'm glad it worked out for you.
Top-- quality build on the GET SMOKING device-! I hope I can do as good when I do that build, I definitely need one, I thank you for the fine GET SMOKING machine build, I can only say WOW! VERY NICE VERY NICE
Thanks, this will be very useful. I am a little concerned about the way you arrived at your wire resistance with your meter. I believe if you took current readings you would find that you have significantly less resistance than you think. Simple meters are not real accurate with low resistances, if you just put your probe tips together how much resistance do you read? Many times it is more than .5 ohms depending on the meter and leads. I would recommend people buy the resistance wire and base the resistance by calculating it from the length of wire they use, that will be more accurate than you can measure with the typical meter. At a minimum subtract your lead resistance from your reading. I appreciate you sharing that with us, it appears to work well.
Exactly right. A great tutorial on accurate measurement of low resistances...
th-cam.com/video/0vMvCVyOp9g/w-d-xo.html
Very nice! Shouldn't those exposed terminals be insulated? With my luck I'll be concentrating on the leak, knock the smoker over and cause a big spark.
I’ve been trying to figure out how to do this for months. 04 Cherokee has a vac leak that’s a real whistler in cold weather. Thank you!!!
Great, simple, effective, and not a cigar, great for the non smokers who need to “get smoking” once in a while
To the point video, as well. Got my 👍🏽
Thank you!
Amazing video. I just built me one 3 days ago and it works amazing! Thanks for the great instructions!
Thank you, I appreciate that and am glad to hear you are enjoying that Smoke Machine.
Realistic cost of all parts together?
@@Asdeer101 give or take, my Home Depot didn’t have the actual sizes he used so it was maybe $10-$15 more.
Made one worked great used .042 safety wire and use a cheep air pump 12 volt power wired it to two point for the heater worked great and found my leak thanks!!!!!!
Nice work!
Nice build especially for the home guy. As someone who uses one in a professional environment regularly one of the best features of the commercial units is the flow meter. You can physically see if there is a leak by watching the flow meter while doing things like actuating purge and vent solenoids. You can also pinch off hoses after you e found the suspected leak to make sure there are no other leaks. If you can make a build with an inline flow meter that would be awesome.
I just built my smoke machine today following your example and it was very easy. This is an awesome video and very detailed. Thanks
I'm glad you liked it and it's working out for you, thank you for watching.
I'm a pro (ASE) mechanic and builder/improviser/fixer from way back and this couldn't be easier to build with the parts and some patience as he's very clearly and succinctly shown how to build this tool. Wish I saw it before I had bought a machine.
I don't understand for the life of me how/why so many people give this a thumbs down. I'm not sure what they expect, other than it being even easier (not possible) or having him jump through the screen and build it for them. If this video doesn't suit your needs, move on... Don't push your disappointment that it's not exactly what you need onto the video maker. He did everything more than acceptably well.
That's what a dislike is for, when the video leaves things out, is over complicated, etc. Not because you don't like his hat or how he talks or walks or whatever. It's not fair to a creator who has done a good job.
Very nice and the most simple build I've seen on a smoke machine so far.
Glad you like it! Have to give credit to BREW2L he was the original designer.
Thanks Martin
Originally I was looking to buy one, then trying to figure out what made the smoke, to purchase that as well!
You answered all my questions in one short, no fluff/ no extra BS video!
I definitely need one, and will be using the same design as you did
Brew21s I think😁👍
PS can I add food coloring or some thing else to add color to the smoke for greater visibility?
Glad I could help!
My buddies jeep had a leak in the same exact spot , right above the fuel tank. I used your link to get some of the supplies I needed!
Thank you, glad you found it helpful!
Absolutely Amazing build! This is the best diy smoke machine I’ve come across yet. Great job! I’ll be building this today.
I'm glad you liked it. 👍Have fun with the build.🙂
@@martinbuilt Exactly how low was the air compressor set to
Built. Works 👍. I used some of the wire from inside of a salvaged dishwasher heating element. Only needed a few inches of it.
Nice job. I happened to have made the glass jar/soldering iron version that works great. Suggest installing a valve stem and using a bicycle pump to avoid overpressurizing evap components.
Thanks for the tip!
@@martinbuilt can I use 1/4 ear plugs instead of a rubber plug
This is the best I have seen, great build Martin! the Ohms explanation was just what I needed. Your little smoke machine video now has Amazon selling all those PVC pieces and the exact 12v cord as a package for around $40 USD.
Where I can't find it on Amazon at all
Can you add the link?
Hey Martin, I've watched a couple contraptions similar to this however I'm particularly fond of this one because of heat conductivity to thick pvc body is far less than when you use a tin paint can. Great job!
That does seem to be much safer! 😃 Less chance of lightning your eyes up too! 😀💀
Great video, and well thought out tool, thanks. Unfortunately, despite the fact that I used a new propane low-pressure regulator on my air inlet, I immediately developed a leak at the bottom near the test-plug attachment area. Even without the regulator that safety plug would have blown out before that test-plug bottom should have cracked. I had planned on sealing up the top threaded clean-out plug a bit, as there was smoke billowing out of the edges. I was going to then add a threaded fill plug in the clean-out cap for filling. Now I must find a way to clean the oil from around the test-plug and perhaps seal it with epoxy. Even the best laid plans. Tip: Check your closet flange for liquid leaks before gluing the clean-out piece to it. Carumba.
Wow!What a cool little project,and it looks like it works pretty darn good too....Thanks Martin
Glad you liked it, let me know how it turns out.
Thank you so much for your demonstration..
Air regulator please, i.e Propan regulator works fine..
Air pressure must not exceed 1 psi, otherwise, will create another leak ..
This is a warning with a green tag in my car, DO NOT EXCEED 1psi air pressure.
Once again, thank you so much.
Two thumbs up.
Dr.
Which REGULATOR did you buy?
Thanx!
That smoke machine has many purposes! Halloween Partys! Gopher holes! Humidifier! And many more I can't think of right now!
Great job ! Years ago I made a 'smoke machine' from a 1gal paint can.
It's ugly and clumsy but it worked, but after seeing your great job here, mine is going in the trash.
I hope I can do nearly as good a job as you did here. Thanks for the share.
Thank you for the video mr. Martin I already made my smoke machine and it works good, I love it.👍
Fantastic!
Nice video, another alternative is to line the pipe with aluminum tape and use two smoke bombs screw the top, and use an air compressor, shop vac, or Harbor Freights hand pump to have slower control over the smoke to push the air through the exhaust system to check for exhaust leaks. As for vacuum leaks, you can do the same thing and attach it to the intake manifold. I use colorless smoke bombs to avoid color residue from coating my vacuum lines.
i came here because im trying to find a boost leak on my turbo car and you gave me agreat idea how to build a mosquito fogger. kudos BRO!
Thank you for putting this video out. Simple to make and works great.
I was able to get great smoke flow with 5 psi.
Like martin was saying, the distance between each coil of the wire doesn't matter because the whick is acting as an insulator but if you touch the wire at any point it will change your resistance value because it essentially eliminates any resistance value between where it touches.
Something else that I would like to point out is when you are talking electricity and resistance values, try to wear gloves because EVERYTHING has a resistance value...it may be negligable but the oils and chemicals you have or may have on your skin can change the resistance value...
Electricity is plain weird...
To add on to that for people who catch it, I had to look it up but PVC is a neutral...
Just made one of these using your tips. Unit worked great and I found my leak instantly! Thanks for sharing!
You found the leak, that's awesome, glad I could help.
Cheapest smoke machine I've ever seen! Going too make one for the shop! Just need to get a regulator for it
Hey PoP,
Please let us know which REGULATOR you get. The only reasonably priced thing I found is a FIXED PROPANE type regulator. But I want an ADJUSTABLE regulator. What kind do you intend to use? Let us know, and also the website link for buying it.
Thanx!
Excellent Martin, I was about to buy a smoke machine for my workshop but seeing your work I'll make one like yours, thank you very much.
I'm glad you liked it. I would highly recommend using actual resistance to wire.
The canister close valve is normally open so wouldn't that need to be actuated shut to properly smoke out the evap system to identify the leak? Look forward to the next video 👍thanks for the great content as always Martin!
There shouldn't be any openings to the outside with the vehicle off, that's the whole point of the evaporative emissions system.
@@Hedonistic0Frog I see why you may think that but that would build tank pressure and cause gas tank to swell up. The canister vent valve (canister close valve) is always open, until it is time to run evap leak test. The pcm decides when to run the tests and purge the vapors at the same time. Vent valve closes, purge valve opens.
@@kbru78 i agree. There are three ways that i have seen to close them. 1. With a scan tool. If yours can do that.
2. With a pair of visegrips, you can pinch off the rubber hose between the char. canister and the vent valve. If your vehicle is setup that way. Mine is not.
3. My vent valve is attached to the side of the char. can. So I disconnected the 2 lines that feed into and from the can, and looped the feed and return lines from the vehicle together with a foot of rubber hose.
@@Hedonistic0Frog You are Wrong,
The vent is always open KOEO How else would you put gas in the tank without an OPEN VENT! The ECU will control the Vent only when doing a pressure or vacuum test of the fuel tank and purge lines.
If the vent were closed KOEO all the time the tank pressure would cause a major leak in the FDS and possibly cause a rupture in the FTA or FDS
Live
What a WONDERFUL idea. small, simple, and cheap. Thank you Martin!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
Damn this was awesome! 🙌🏻🙌🏻 if you made another I’d buy it right off of you! Phenomenal work bud!
Martin does do beautiful work. He is a true artist, in my book!!!
Hi sir I'm very grateful to you for your time and effort in taking the time to create a great smoke machine for finding bad leaks on motor vehicles I've got a leak on a mk1 focus estate after i done the cambelt water pump and had to replace the cylinder head so i will have to build this smoke machine and hopefully will be able to find out the leak many thanks again Tony
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Good luck with that cylinder head.🙂👍
Best DIY smoke machine yet! Thoughts on using a battery operated fish tank air bubbler for the air supply?
Cool idea
¹
Excellent build! I made mine a couple years ago out of a paint can. But this is MUCH better! Cheap too w/the PVC fittings. Thanx for the great idea!
Glad you like it!
@@martinbuilt I cannot find the link to thesupplies
Excellent! You really turn out well documented and very valuable content. Thanks very much!
Aww man your a life saver. I’m off to build mine now. Cool vid.
Excelent video, i followed it to the t,but 3 seconds on by firtst try the wick burst in to flames.I had to use a power regulator to control the electric current, it took a few tries.Also i had to install an air flow regulator and a cut off valve.
Then succes.Thank you.You saved me 100 bucks.
it sounds like the wire is too short. Adding length will raise the resistance.
Thanks for adding the e bay link for the flange. I was able to find one at my local hardware store, but I have a friend who wants to build one and I'm sure he'll get it from e bay.
That's such a simple build. A smoke machine is a must-have tool for doing diag.s in today's auto world.
New sub 😁
Glad you liked it.
Thank you for subscribing 🙂
As always, Outstanding job!
Thanks
Nice video but honestly that machine is way too complicated! This one is so simple here:
th-cam.com/video/4R4Q9Y-sW-s/w-d-xo.html
P0455 on a 2006 dodge ram 1500. New gas cap, checked purge valve, no visible signs of where the leak might be. This is just what I need so I'm off to hardware store. Thanks for the great video!
Well done. Thanks for sharing your time.
Now this is an awesome and more sophisticated diy for a smoke machine. Well done!
Thank you. i'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Thank you for this AWESOME how to video. You're an ACE!! I like how you also list all the items/tools you used to complete this excellent project. Something that's lacking in a lot of other HT videos. However, I'm certain I'm not the Lone Ranger in wanting the info/link for the cutters you used to cut everything with. They look simple, but appear to cut most anything you'd need to cut in other projects as well. Would you be kind enough to add the info/link for them to your Materials List. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge & experience. You're a gem.
I'm not sure if you have had the chance to find the tool and others may see this who need one but it's a combo cutter-crimping tool (yes, they're very handy) but they're available at H.D./Lowes, hardware stores and on line at eBay and tool companies like Klien, etc. Just tell someone what you need and they'll hook you up.
If you're talking about the cutter that he cut the wick with Harbor Freight sells them, they work great!
Thanks Martin, your video saved me some time and money. Made my machine, found the leak, fixed the issue and good to go.
Great device Martin!
Many thanks for this! Here in the UK, those particular plumbing parts (the flange and adapter) aren't easy to find without special-ordering and they're not all that cheap either (Amazon had a cleanout adapter, but on a 10-day lead time and it cost £20), but my local plumbing supply place was able to find alternatives they had in stock and which worked just as well.
Awesome video! I think I just saved $1000. THANK YOU!!!!
You're welcome!
Maybe not the least expensive homemade smoke tester build that I've seen, but definitely the neatest one! I never thought of using a toilet flange for a stand. They use IP flanges for walkway and step railings, but I never made the connection. Thanks for sharing!
I really like the design, I am very eager to build one, but I can't seem to find the parts list, can you help?
I bought the parts today for this. I need to track down leaks in a 1946 Spartan Manor camper. I hope this will help me find the leaks...rivets, holes, seams, etc. Some companies use a big version for that purpose. It costs $399 near my home. If this doesn’t work, I have to haul it over there, which I’d rather not do. I’d gladly pay if they’d come here.
Dude! Cheap, and always fun to make your own tools! LOVE IT!
By the time you buy everything from his links it’s $112. You could spend $20 more and get a real smoke machine
Just built mine! Had to buy everything except the hoses and a fuse, (didnt even have PVC glue) so it was pricy, but fun to build and fired right up!
I like the PVC vs glass or metal case. No issue with breakage or electrical shorts. Does the PVC ever get hot enough to become soft?
PVC is extruded at over 400 degrees. If it gets hot get your fire extinguisher.
I was Very impressed with you using the proper crimper for the end rings.
Thank you Michael,
I am a low voltage senior technician with the IBEW
Glad to know. I am an engineer in the electronics field along with you. It's just you see so many people use a pair of vise grips. It makes me cringe.
That's the nicest build of a smoke machine I have seen.
Curious question:. after that unit has been on for sometime when you are tracking down at leek does the screw terminals not get hot and possibly could melt the PVC ??
I made one and it became very hot after about 5 minutes of continuous use. Going to try and use more wire for more resistance. (Originally was about 2 ohms - 72 watts, going to try 4 ohms @ about 36 watts)
@@michaelgrey4475 thanks for the info. 👍
Excellent job! In forty years of working on cars some of the best tools I had were the ones I made.
Thank you very much, I got a valve spring compressor that I 've made that I think is the best out there for the 3.7/4.7 Chrysler engine.
Great video! How much pressure is safe to set the air compressor at.
If your checking for leaks on the EVAP system don't go over 1.5 psi. you may need a little more pressure if you're looking for leaks on the engine.
Thank you 🙏
I'm making one this week, I have a vacuum leak somewhere between he engine and climate controls in the cab. This will make it really easy.
Jim Giordano, did this smoker help you find the leak? I have the same problem in my climate controls also..... Thanks
Hi Martin..You've got to be Richard's twin brother from Precision Transmission..Great video Thank you! Subscribed!
Yep that's my long lost brother. 😄 Thanks for the sub!
@@martinbuilt But he sure knows his way around in transmissions! lol Thanks for the response and take care eh..(Yes I'm Canadian lol)
Great video, work no filler. Just straight awesomeness.
- I wonder if one could incorporate a fish tank air pump, and make it (1) portable (2) low pressure.
Love this!
I'm gonna have to build me one of these "Get Smokin Machines" lol
Call it Weed vapor :)
Right on man. I will be making one this weekend. Thanks for spreading the information good sir
gonna try to have a schrader valve attached so i can do a lower pressure test with a bike pump so it’s easier to find the leak
Great job showing the construction of a DIY smoke machine for troubleshooting; thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Way too much pressure in that fuel tank, Martin!
Has to be less than 1 PSI
Fuel tank pressure sensor is delicate and the tank has a large surface area on which those 5-7 PSI you're using pushes up against.
Its seems like you've put a slight higher pressure into the evaporative system. Be careful you might blow out seals and other components with high pressure, and create more issues later down the road. I would put in a pressure regulator set it to around 1 to 2psi max. Food for thoughts, just make sure the smoke is not leaking through the vent valve because it's a normally open valve, so the vent side needs to be sealed some how. Anyways fantastic job.
"one of the readers out there" LOL
"straight acrosssed" only in america
Informative, educational, entertaining, dude, keep it up, two thumbs up from this Aussie.
Watching you work is genuinely a pleasure
Thank you I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found helpful.