Great explanation on how to do this and all the intricacies involved period it would be really helpful if you added all of these videos in this series to a single playlist that plays straight through in order.
Outstanding video. Thank you for the time you gave and information you shared. I'm hoping you can help me. I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix, as I understand is the same as a Corolla, I paid a mechanic to change the clutch and flywheel. I lack time and tools to get the job done myself. From the day I picked up my car I have had an ongoing issue that I never had prior to the clutch and FW replacement. You maybe able to shed light on what might be the problem. When driving, regardless of speed or gear I am in, if I go over irregular road surface, e.g. train tracks, the RMP will drop out completely for an instant and then resume. This doesn't happen all the time though, Now the problem has gone from RPM dropping out and resuming correct RPM to stalling the car. When the car stalls it will start right up again and then drive no problem until the next time it happens, which could be at any moment or go for days without a problem. In trouble shooting this I have replaced the spark plugs, new fuel pump assembly, mass air flow sensor and cleaned the intake system. All work done by mechanic (different mechanic who changed out the clutch and FW) hoping that this will fix the problem. He also checked any fuse issues, loose wire harness, ground terminals, and love tapped almost the entire top surface of the engine to see if there's a loose connection somewhere. No luck. When the clutch and FW were replaced, is there a chance that a cable has been stretched or plug that isn't connecting properly in a less obvious place other than the top side of the engine be the cause of this worsening intermittent problem? Any suggestions/advise is welcome. Many thanks, Steve.
Thanks for the video. I like how you took us step by step even before starting to work on the car, and I really appreciate identifying the tools your using. Definitely subscribing. Now on to the next video in this tutorial.
Hey I was just wondering where you get rid of your clutch fluid, my clutch is close to going out and I’m just trying to get an idea of what I will have to do or where I will have to go
Hi Doug... Thanks a bunch for these videos. It's so much better now that you've taken the time to do this vs me just jumping face first blind into it. I dig the crossmember wooden shim support. So simple and effective. Questions, How do you like the feel of the Exedy clutch over what you remembered of the stocker? How is the throw out bearing holding up on this new clutch setup? Did you by any chance change the rear main seal while you were in there for piece of mind? Thanks Take care, Chris
Hi, late reply, sorry. I did the job several years ago and the Corolla is still fine at 350,000K. So the Exedy and throw out were fine. I didn't change that seal. Good luck with the job--it's a hassle but rewarding!
Doug, great job with these videos. They've really helped me prepare for doing this job on my car. But I'd like to ask, I missed where you actually dropped the transmission out of the car. So I have to ask you a question or two...Did you unbolt the lower suspension subframe and center subframe like the Chilton manual says to do, or were you able to remove the transaxle without having to do that step? I've been looking at how to remove the transmission without having to do that step, because it seems like that's a lot of unnecessary work, and I'm trying to keep that to a minimum. Did I miss something on one of your videos you posted?Again, thank you for posting these videos. They've been a great help!
Good for you for doing it. On part 4, 1:45 I start to dismantle the cross members, and you definitely don't need to remove all of them as shown in the Chilton and Haynes manuals. The transaxle supports the engine so when you drop the transaxle you need to support the engine. I don't have an engine support so I cooked up the idea of supporting the engine on the front to back cross member and a custom cut 2x4 shim that filled the gap between the cross member and the engine, which worked fine. As you're finding, that cross member leaves too little space under the transaxle to allow it to drop, so before I dropped the engine onto the cross member, I detached the two bolts of the cross member at the front of the car. I removed all but one of the rear bolts so the cross member could swing freely on the single, remaining rear bolt and rotated the front of the cross member towards the passenger side. I lined up the driver side cross member bolt hole with the threaded, passenger side hole and reattached it with just a single bolt. This gave me an extra 2" on the driver side and I was able to get the transaxle out. You'll see I commented in part 4 about removing the battery mounting bracket on the driver side engine wall, because it just got in the way. To get the transaxle out I supported it gently with the jack to which I'd attached a transmission adapter (happened to have one from a prior job and if you don't have one you have to balance the transaxle kind of precariously on the jack) before removing all the bolts. To get the transaxle disengaged from the mounting pins I gently jacked up and slightly released it using the jack until the two pieces separated. I was able to use a pry bar to separate the two, then worked the prybar around from the bottom and top to release it from the engine. As you can imagine all these parts are finely machined so I wanted to keep the axles etc nice and straight. It took a while but I got with the prying and gentle lifting/dropping until the transaxle pulled away from all the mounting pins. Always keep the hydraulic jack under the transaxle so the transaxle never hangs on the shaft protruding from the engine and damages the shaft.. Then to get the transaxle out I actually used two hydraulic jacks to manoeuvre it up and down and left and right until I found a way for it to drop. That took 15-20 minutes and I wasn't being gentle. You'll eventually be able to wiggle it out. I reversed the steps to attach it, but to get the engine pins aligned with the holes on the transaxle I had to get underneath and lift the transaxle so I could carefully align them. It was a little heavy, but I got it, and I had the jack there to as a backup. Good luck and ask anything else. Doug
I had a question. I have a 2008 Corolla and it started by making a finding sound when engaged that had A varying amount of intensity. It’s got tons worse over time and it’s really bad now% the car is also going into limp mode and I’m not even sure it’s related. Would this be just a clutch problem? Throw out bearing? Or something internal thanks
This is fast enough? :) Unfortunately the automatic transmission is completely different from a standard transmission. I would suggest that if you want to do it yourself, buy an online subscription to Haynes OR buy the paper manual. It will have step-by-step instructions and you should be okay. Automatic transmissions are actually easier than standard ones, and if you have the right tools and a LOT of ambition you can do it. Good luck, and make a video!
Doug Brown THANLS SOO MICH FOR REPLYING!! ☺don't go yet lol. I have the Haynes repair manual. I looked through it and I jumped into the 'Clutch and driveaxles' section. However, it doesn't continue far enough to explain how to replace the clutch though. What happens now? Am I just not viewing the book correctly?
Hi. I don't have my Haynes manual handy but it's definitely in there because I used it to do mine. It was missing a lot of helpful tips which is why I did the videos. Just keep looking!
Doug Brown I will keep looking. Just a few more questions. Would you be able to know a reliable website that I can purchase a clutch? Also, by your experience, how much do you think it'll cost to take it to my mechanic? In other words, how much do you think the labor would be?
Thanks for this informative video. I have an 04 Corolla. My problem is the car is stuck in a certain gear I want to believe. At first it won't go into gears 1&2. I could go into N, 3, 4, 5 and R. I'm not even sure I was going in those gears cuz every time I take my foot off the clutch the car cuts off. Now it won't go into any gear. I've gotten diagnosis from "it's the clutch slave cylinder" to transmission issues etc. Please advice. 302-333-2101.
+gus hardy The slave cylinder connects the clutch pedal to the clutch so when you press the clutch pedal in the car, the clutch disk releases from the engine flywheel. When that happens you can use the gear stick to manipulate the gears inside the transaxle (transmission.) In your case, you can't manipulate the gears so the problem is either: 1) The clutch isn't releasing from the flywheel and freeing up the gears, or 2) The gears inside the transaxle are jammed. I would guess it's the master or slave cylinder. Try Scotty's video: th-cam.com/video/pyIa8J8OZyk/w-d-xo.html
Gone are the days of the dreaded clutch cable, learning to use engine revs to mesh the gears. Just make sure if you have to stop the car, it is on a hill or you are going nowhere, not being able to mesh from stationary. Then, when you finally get that red, Renault 5 GT Turbo home, you need to call your mechanic and get charged £90 for labour, £46 for the clutch and a few quid for the cable (1997). LOL. The clutch was also starting to slip at the time, so got that repaired along with the cable. Speaking from experience of course. Embarrassing.
why do these guys go with a whole load of time consuming superfluous bunk...any one replacing a clutch will know what the dam slave cylinder does..just cut to the chase and get on with the info...geez blah blah blah last chap waffled o for 3 munite about removing all his personal junk in rear of car...For Gods sake...
+Doug Brown Thanks for posting the video. I don't have a damned clue what the slave cylinder does, but I"m slowly starting to accumulate parts to replace my clutch on my 05 Corolla XRS. I will learn. But I've gotta learn somewhere.
+Salvatore Gennero There is a master cylinder and a slave cylinder that work together. The master cylinder holds the fluid that pressurizes the brake lines/hoses as well as the high pressure line/hose to the clutch in standard drive cars. The slave cylinder is the component that transfers the pressure created when your foot pushes the clutch pedal down, to the clutch plate and lifts the clutch plate off the spinning flywheel. The slave has a very strong, metal rod that pushes out about an inch and compresses the plate. Your foot pushes the clutch pedal down about 10 inches but just an inch of rod comes out, so that little rod is holding a huge amount of pressure, which you need to push the clutch plate. Check out video 5 of 5 and you'll have a better idea. Good luck.
@@DougBrownVancouver thanks for posting this. I'm thinking of (dreaming of atm) buying a car with a stick and wanted to see how hard it might be to replace a clutch in the event I get a car with a stick.
You can fast-forward as much as you like whats the problem a lot of people don't know anything about vehicles. Maybe some of them get into Financial situations so their only option is to fix it themselves. Videos like this make it possible.
Thank you Doug! This video helped me fix my wife's car, saved me a grand at least. Really a good series of videos
Glad I could help. It's not a job for everyone but you're on of those people!
Great explanation on how to do this and all the intricacies involved period it would be really helpful if you added all of these videos in this series to a single playlist that plays straight through in order.
Outstanding video. Thank you for the time you gave and information you shared. I'm hoping you can help me. I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix, as I understand is the same as a Corolla, I paid a mechanic to change the clutch and flywheel. I lack time and tools to get the job done myself. From the day I picked up my car I have had an ongoing issue that I never had prior to the clutch and FW replacement. You maybe able to shed light on what might be the problem. When driving, regardless of speed or gear I am in, if I go over irregular road surface, e.g. train tracks, the RMP will drop out completely for an instant and then resume. This doesn't happen all the time though, Now the problem has gone from RPM dropping out and resuming correct RPM to stalling the car. When the car stalls it will start right up again and then drive no problem until the next time it happens, which could be at any moment or go for days without a problem. In trouble shooting this I have replaced the spark plugs, new fuel pump assembly, mass air flow sensor and cleaned the intake system. All work done by mechanic (different mechanic who changed out the clutch and FW) hoping that this will fix the problem. He also checked any fuse issues, loose wire harness, ground terminals, and love tapped almost the entire top surface of the engine to see if there's a loose connection somewhere. No luck. When the clutch and FW were replaced, is there a chance that a cable has been stretched or plug that isn't connecting properly in a less obvious place other than the top side of the engine be the cause of this worsening intermittent problem? Any suggestions/advise is welcome. Many thanks, Steve.
Thanks for the video. I like how you took us step by step even before starting to work on the car, and I really appreciate identifying the tools your using. Definitely subscribing. Now on to the next video in this tutorial.
Thanks for the kudos--Glad to help!
Thanx Dough, for your wonderful video on Clutch replacement, Slave cylinder & gear oil !!
Those clips on the splash guard can be reused if you take them out correctly. There is a tool for this
That's great to know, thanks. So many tools!
Hey I was just wondering where you get rid of your clutch fluid, my clutch is close to going out and I’m just trying to get an idea of what I will have to do or where I will have to go
Hi Doug...
Thanks a bunch for these videos.
It's so much better now that you've taken the time to do this vs me just jumping face first blind into it.
I dig the crossmember wooden shim support. So simple and effective.
Questions,
How do you like the feel of the Exedy clutch over what you remembered of the stocker?
How is the throw out bearing holding up on this new clutch setup?
Did you by any chance change the rear main seal while you were in there for piece of mind?
Thanks
Take care,
Chris
Hi, late reply, sorry. I did the job several years ago and the Corolla is still fine at 350,000K. So the Exedy and throw out were fine. I didn't change that seal. Good luck with the job--it's a hassle but rewarding!
Doug, great job with these videos. They've really helped me prepare for doing this job on my car. But I'd like to ask, I missed where you actually dropped the transmission out of the car. So I have to ask you a question or two...Did you unbolt the lower suspension subframe and center subframe like the Chilton manual says to do, or were you able to remove the transaxle without having to do that step? I've been looking at how to remove the transmission without having to do that step, because it seems like that's a lot of unnecessary work, and I'm trying to keep that to a minimum. Did I miss something on one of your videos you posted?Again, thank you for posting these videos. They've been a great help!
Good for you for doing it. On part 4, 1:45 I start to dismantle the cross members, and you definitely don't need to remove all of them as shown in the Chilton and Haynes manuals. The transaxle supports the engine so when you drop the transaxle you need to support the engine. I don't have an engine support so I cooked up the idea of supporting the engine on the front to back cross member and a custom cut 2x4 shim that filled the gap between the cross member and the engine, which worked fine. As you're finding, that cross member leaves too little space under the transaxle to allow it to drop, so before I dropped the engine onto the cross member, I detached the two bolts of the cross member at the front of the car. I removed all but one of the rear bolts so the cross member could swing freely on the single, remaining rear bolt and rotated the front of the cross member towards the passenger side. I lined up the driver side cross member bolt hole with the threaded, passenger side hole and reattached it with just a single bolt. This gave me an extra 2" on the driver side and I was able to get the transaxle out. You'll see I commented in part 4 about removing the battery mounting bracket on the driver side engine wall, because it just got in the way. To get the transaxle out I supported it gently with the jack to which I'd attached a transmission adapter (happened to have one from a prior job and if you don't have one you have to balance the transaxle kind of precariously on the jack) before removing all the bolts. To get the transaxle disengaged from the mounting pins I gently jacked up and slightly released it using the jack until the two pieces separated. I was able to use a pry bar to separate the two, then worked the prybar around from the bottom and top to release it from the engine. As you can imagine all these parts are finely machined so I wanted to keep the axles etc nice and straight. It took a while but I got with the prying and gentle lifting/dropping until the transaxle pulled away from all the mounting pins. Always keep the hydraulic jack under the transaxle so the transaxle never hangs on the shaft protruding from the engine and damages the shaft.. Then to get the transaxle out I actually used two hydraulic jacks to manoeuvre it up and down and left and right until I found a way for it to drop. That took 15-20 minutes and I wasn't being gentle. You'll eventually be able to wiggle it out. I reversed the steps to attach it, but to get the engine pins aligned with the holes on the transaxle I had to get underneath and lift the transaxle so I could carefully align them. It was a little heavy, but I got it, and I had the jack there to as a backup.
Good luck and ask anything else.
Doug
I had a question. I have a 2008 Corolla and it started by making a finding sound when engaged that had A varying amount of intensity. It’s got tons worse over time and it’s really bad now% the car is also going into limp mode and I’m not even sure it’s related. Would this be just a clutch problem? Throw out bearing? Or something internal thanks
Grinding not finding
Hi, thanks for watching. Sorry i can't diagnose without seeing it!
Mr Doug Brown! I hope you reply fast but I have a 2011 corolla le. It's an automatic. Could I possibly still use this vid as a reference?
This is fast enough? :) Unfortunately the automatic transmission is completely different from a standard transmission. I would suggest that if you want to do it yourself, buy an online subscription to Haynes OR buy the paper manual. It will have step-by-step instructions and you should be okay. Automatic transmissions are actually easier than standard ones, and if you have the right tools and a LOT of ambition you can do it. Good luck, and make a video!
Doug Brown THANLS SOO MICH FOR REPLYING!! ☺don't go yet lol. I have the Haynes repair manual. I looked through it and I jumped into the 'Clutch and driveaxles' section. However, it doesn't continue far enough to explain how to replace the clutch though. What happens now? Am I just not viewing the book correctly?
Hi. I don't have my Haynes manual handy but it's definitely in there because I used it to do mine. It was missing a lot of helpful tips which is why I did the videos. Just keep looking!
Doug Brown I will keep looking. Just a few more questions. Would you be able to know a reliable website that I can purchase a clutch? Also, by your experience, how much do you think it'll cost to take it to my mechanic? In other words, how much do you think the labor would be?
Thanks for this informative video. I have an 04 Corolla. My problem is the car is stuck in a certain gear I want to believe. At first it won't go into gears 1&2. I could go into N, 3, 4, 5 and R. I'm not even sure I was going in those gears cuz every time I take my foot off the clutch the car cuts off. Now it won't go into any gear. I've gotten diagnosis from "it's the clutch slave cylinder" to transmission issues etc.
Please advice. 302-333-2101.
+gus hardy The slave cylinder connects the clutch pedal to the clutch so when you press the clutch pedal in the car, the clutch disk releases from the engine flywheel. When that happens you can use the gear stick to manipulate the gears inside the transaxle (transmission.) In your case, you can't manipulate the gears so the problem is either: 1) The clutch isn't releasing from the flywheel and freeing up the gears, or 2) The gears inside the transaxle are jammed. I would guess it's the master or slave cylinder.
Try Scotty's video: th-cam.com/video/pyIa8J8OZyk/w-d-xo.html
Gone are the days of the dreaded clutch cable, learning to use engine revs to mesh the gears. Just make sure if you have to stop the car, it is on a hill or you are going nowhere, not being able to mesh from stationary. Then, when you finally get that red, Renault 5 GT Turbo home, you need to call your mechanic and get charged £90 for labour, £46 for the clutch and a few quid for the cable (1997). LOL. The clutch was also starting to slip at the time, so got that repaired along with the cable. Speaking from experience of course. Embarrassing.
Now blabbing on about sockets????
+Pius Put Still trolling people who want to help others? Get lost bad kid.
why do these guys go with a whole load of time consuming superfluous bunk...any one replacing a clutch will know what the dam slave cylinder does..just cut to the chase and get on with the info...geez blah blah blah last chap waffled o for 3 munite about removing all his personal junk in rear of car...For Gods sake...
+Doug Brown Check Box Checked for Rekt!
+Doug Brown Thanks for posting the video. I don't have a damned clue what the slave cylinder does, but I"m slowly starting to accumulate parts to replace my clutch on my 05 Corolla XRS. I will learn. But I've gotta learn somewhere.
+Salvatore Gennero There is a master cylinder and a slave cylinder that work together. The master cylinder holds the fluid that pressurizes the brake lines/hoses as well as the high pressure line/hose to the clutch in standard drive cars. The slave cylinder is the component that transfers the pressure created when your foot pushes the clutch pedal down, to the clutch plate and lifts the clutch plate off the spinning flywheel. The slave has a very strong, metal rod that pushes out about an inch and compresses the plate. Your foot pushes the clutch pedal down about 10 inches but just an inch of rod comes out, so that little rod is holding a huge amount of pressure, which you need to push the clutch plate. Check out video 5 of 5 and you'll have a better idea. Good luck.
@@DougBrownVancouver thanks for posting this. I'm thinking of (dreaming of atm) buying a car with a stick and wanted to see how hard it might be to replace a clutch in the event I get a car with a stick.
You can fast-forward as much as you like whats the problem a lot of people don't know anything about vehicles. Maybe some of them get into Financial situations so their only option is to fix it themselves. Videos like this make it possible.