Not many people would attempted the amount of work you have done on your house It’s a credit to yourself what you’ve done. You need to pack the office job in and work for yourself doing this full time. Always enjoy your videos. Thank you!
Cheers mate, I appreciate the encouragement! I'd love to do more of this, but I also love my office job...! Hopefully I can find a balance that works and keeps everyone happy
I’d be tempted to put noggins in across the beams. Also recommend you talk to a sparky about bonding as your replacing bits of the copper with plastic. I’m not a fan of pushfit and I defo wouldn’t have it in an inaccessible area like under a floor, but that’s just me.
Hi there great video. Can I ask you a question please? If you surveyed a possible customers bathroom for a tray, how do you find out which way the joists are running etc?
It can be very hard if there is flooring down covering the original boards, but there are often clues (screw heads, nails etc. running in the same direction). Also, if it's a terraced or semi detached house, the joists typically run front to back, because they are set into the brick work, and noise and fire could travel along the joists to the neighbours property if they ran the other way. In all other instances, the joists generally run in whichever direction is the shortest span. Floorboards always run perpendicular to joists. I hope that helps, and it's not any one set rule sadly, every builder does it slightly differently! Best of luck.
Building regs do not permit notching that deep. Should be no deeper than 0.125 times the depth of the joists. You’ve essentially destroyed it’s structural integrity
Indeed. Wirquin do a very shallow "SLIM" (40mm) membrane valve waste if you really have to position the waste above a joist. Not convinced about that load bearing floor being cut back like that either....
Multiple notches on one joist far too close together and a drilled hole underneath one of these notches...... yikes. And then there's the plastic flexi and the plastic compression fitting, under floorboards. 😬
You're a very meticulous guy and it shows! If the joist surfaces were very out of level with each other (assuming that's why you did what you did), I personally would elect to attach timbers (like the battens you've used for eg) to stick up above the joist surfaces by 3-4mm instead of sinking the plywood below the joist surfaces. This way you can have continuous big sheets of ply without cutting the joist thinner and weakening them, plus less cutting. I have a water level I like using to get things in a flat plane, but laser level would be less finicky. You can find the highest joist surface that you'd like the bottom of the ply to miss, attach a timber to stick above it by about 1-2mm, and then attach timbers to all the other joists to the same height as the first timber, checking their elevation against the first timber you attached with laser/water level. I personally would use 38x63 CLS to give extra room for screws both vertically against the joists and later for attaching the ply.
Great suggestions. I was keen to have the shower tray as flush to the ground as possible, because the couple I was installing it for are both very old and frail, and needed to be able to walk into it. Otherwise, completely agree 👍
Little tip for levelling with a laser … put the laser anywhere in the room any height you like facing the working area then use a tape measure down on to the surface your levelling where the laser hits the tape you can work out if your high or low in each area … hope that makes sense
It's a brilliant idea - almost like one of those Lazer level finders that bleeps when the stick is at the right height, only you use a tape measure instead. I have one of those long collapsible plastic ruler style tape measures, that would work too because they're rigid across the entire length 💪👍
I honestly don't know! I think sometimes they were packing in small gaps or holes to stop drafts, as I had some stuffed in walls/gaps. Other times I guess it might be to soak up small spillages?
There was no need for your batons if you used the multi tool to shave off the top of the Joists? For the next job, keep your working area clean, ie hoover out the muck in between joists, better for fire purposes but overall it makes you feel better working in an uncluttered environment. Overall I like your vids buddy, I love seeing a person do this stuff themselves, I started the same way 20 years ago, love it. Well done mate
scrap everything I said, I watched till the end, which I shouldve done initially instead of mouthing off. You cleaned the shite out, you used the batons for levelling & structural purposes(I would have used plywood to sister the joists) , but other than that, great job
Not many people would attempted the amount of work you have done on your house
It’s a credit to yourself what you’ve done.
You need to pack the office job in and work for yourself doing this full time.
Always enjoy your videos.
Thank you!
Cheers mate, I appreciate the encouragement! I'd love to do more of this, but I also love my office job...! Hopefully I can find a balance that works and keeps everyone happy
I’d be tempted to put noggins in across the beams. Also recommend you talk to a sparky about bonding as your replacing bits of the copper with plastic.
I’m not a fan of pushfit and I defo wouldn’t have it in an inaccessible area like under a floor, but that’s just me.
Don’t forget to tighten the 22-15mm speedfit reducing elbow before covering it with ply. Both sides look like they need it. 👍🏻
Great spot! Yes they did, had a little weeping drip from them, but thankfully nothing too damaging. You're watching closely!
Enjoy watching your project
Thanks mate!
Great video, very enjoyable thank you !!
Thanks mate!
Hi there great video. Can I ask you a question please? If you surveyed a possible customers bathroom for a tray, how do you find out which way the joists are running etc?
It can be very hard if there is flooring down covering the original boards, but there are often clues (screw heads, nails etc. running in the same direction).
Also, if it's a terraced or semi detached house, the joists typically run front to back, because they are set into the brick work, and noise and fire could travel along the joists to the neighbours property if they ran the other way.
In all other instances, the joists generally run in whichever direction is the shortest span. Floorboards always run perpendicular to joists.
I hope that helps, and it's not any one set rule sadly, every builder does it slightly differently! Best of luck.
Gd job.
Building regs do not permit notching that deep. Should be no deeper than 0.125 times the depth of the joists. You’ve essentially destroyed it’s structural integrity
Indeed. Wirquin do a very shallow "SLIM" (40mm) membrane valve waste if you really have to position the waste above a joist. Not convinced about that load bearing floor being cut back like that either....
Multiple notches on one joist far too close together and a drilled hole underneath one of these notches...... yikes. And then there's the plastic flexi and the plastic compression fitting, under floorboards. 😬
You're a very meticulous guy and it shows! If the joist surfaces were very out of level with each other (assuming that's why you did what you did), I personally would elect to attach timbers (like the battens you've used for eg) to stick up above the joist surfaces by 3-4mm instead of sinking the plywood below the joist surfaces. This way you can have continuous big sheets of ply without cutting the joist thinner and weakening them, plus less cutting.
I have a water level I like using to get things in a flat plane, but laser level would be less finicky. You can find the highest joist surface that you'd like the bottom of the ply to miss, attach a timber to stick above it by about 1-2mm, and then attach timbers to all the other joists to the same height as the first timber, checking their elevation against the first timber you attached with laser/water level. I personally would use 38x63 CLS to give extra room for screws both vertically against the joists and later for attaching the ply.
Great suggestions. I was keen to have the shower tray as flush to the ground as possible, because the couple I was installing it for are both very old and frail, and needed to be able to walk into it. Otherwise, completely agree 👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Yeah that's understandable. Thanks for the reply👍
Little tip for levelling with a laser … put the laser anywhere in the room any height you like facing the working area then use a tape measure down on to the surface your levelling where the laser hits the tape you can work out if your high or low in each area … hope that makes sense
Great suggestion!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder hope that helps mate
It's a brilliant idea - almost like one of those Lazer level finders that bleeps when the stick is at the right height, only you use a tape measure instead.
I have one of those long collapsible plastic ruler style tape measures, that would work too because they're rigid across the entire length 💪👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder that’s the way we screed big areas in extentions or level old houses flooring very cheap and cheerful way of doing it
Why did people stuff newspapers under the floor? I’ve had it in my property.
I honestly don't know! I think sometimes they were packing in small gaps or holes to stop drafts, as I had some stuffed in walls/gaps. Other times I guess it might be to soak up small spillages?
There was no need for your batons if you used the multi tool to shave off the top of the Joists? For the next job, keep your working area clean, ie hoover out the muck in between joists, better for fire purposes but overall it makes you feel better working in an uncluttered environment. Overall I like your vids buddy, I love seeing a person do this stuff themselves, I started the same way 20 years ago, love it. Well done mate
scrap everything I said, I watched till the end, which I shouldve done initially instead of mouthing off. You cleaned the shite out, you used the batons for levelling & structural purposes(I would have used plywood to sister the joists) , but other than that, great job
Cheers mate - I love clean working areas - safer, easier to see what you're doing, and less risk of leaving tools behind! 🤣
Change the tray loads on the market
I presume you are going use bonding clamps between the two ends of copper pipe you cut out
I connected them with a wago
Nice and level? It’s no where near level haha