Coming along really well, lifting that tray up and down must've been a pain lol When I done my shower room I was able to fit the trap etc after the tray was down which honestly was a blessing, so much easier to line up
@@javidyousuf 18mm is the minimum recommendation, but will be a rock solid base for the shower tray. Also CT1 is fantastic, but for wet areas, you need to use BT1, same company.
It's a Mira trap, and they're very good. They are a vortex waste trap so that the water is sucked and pushed down the drain, but still leaves a trap of water to block smells. I think they're great
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Do you have a link to the one you have used? I believe I had the same fitted but it's pooling water in the tray. Troubleshooting at present. Thanks.
I'm planning to install a shower tray on floor board. Would you recommend chip board on top of wooden floor or take floor board patch out for tray and replace with 18mm board
How do you want your shower tray to fit, flush with the flooring, or sitting higher than the floor, or if it's 1200mm or shorter in length, risers? If you want it sitting flush, then remove timber floor and replace with 18mm minimum plywood, tank it first. But you'd need to figure out the height of the floor, in order to know if you need more than 18mm. Don't forget to use a flex seal tape around the shower tray. Also do not dot and dab the adhesive/sealant on the base of the shower tray, you need to squeeze golf ball sizes on it, so when it's pushed down, the adhesive will expand out and fully seal the areas it's supposed to.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder PVA is water soluble, SBR isn't, and that's why it's recommended. I'm doing one myself; your videos have proved very useful. Fortunately, all my rafters are perfectly level!
Hopefully you glued the nut on the trap. They can work themselves loose over time. When you stick the tray down, put big blobs of silicone/adhesive on instead of tiny beads. Good effort though.
Should never reduce down on waist pipes mate. That tee should have been 40mm and replaced what's going out through the wall in 40mm you have just created a 8mm lip this is going to become a problem in the very near future
I would have put silicone on both sides of that seal on trap, putting sealant on top ring will do little or nothing. And just touching on what someone else mentioned, that silicone won't stick that down, it wasn't even touching. Some manufacturers insist it's sat on sand cement to support tray fully.
The official mira video shows there installer using silicone to stick it down Unlike most other resin shower trays which have a totally flat smooth base , the Mira flight has a reinforced pattern on the under side as I can see in the vid
No silicone on the bottom - if the rubber gasket doesn't seal properly when tightened silicone will only be a sticking plaster and the seal will eventually fail anyway. These Mira trays do not need to be bedded on sand and cement.
Lol the silicon isn’t even getting a hold to the ply, you should of used Stixall and put ALOT more on than that! You lifted the tray a few times and the silicon hadn’t squashed!
Had he actually used a decent amount of silicone instead of those pidly little beads he did apply it would have adhered or 'squished down better. The main issue is using PVA... you never use PVA as it simply forms a skin on the surface which can and does peel off which defeats any ability of the likes of silicon, CT1 etc from doing their job! TBH you should not really try sticking trays like this or even tiles for that matter to timber/ply. Instead you should use cement board or a backer board as they actually give a decent grab to any adhesives you use. Failing that and given he does (in many of his other videos) admit he's just an amateur DIYer he should have used acrylic sealer as that does not form a skin like standard PVA and wound at least give a bit of grab to his silicon! Oh.. and if you don't believe me about the PVA bit... give it a go with either your hand or a bit of timber. Coat one surface with pva, let it dry and then stick a bit of silicon or the like on top. Once dry just peel away.... and it does! 🙄
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 the official MIRA channel and instillation video for the Mira flight tray , says to stick it down with Silicone So yea you can use cement ( and should never use tile adhesive Silicone is the way Mira say But yea pva is crap and never should be used SBR all the way
If you think that's bad you should see what the previous owner has done to mine when I've just lifted the floor up.....Christ almighty. I am in disbelief.
I love the Mira flight trays and the waste system as well. They are well built but they are extremely heavy!
Coming along really well, lifting that tray up and down must've been a pain lol
When I done my shower room I was able to fit the trap etc after the tray was down which honestly was a blessing, so much easier to line up
Hi great video , would 18mm hardwood ply do the job. Also would the CT1 silicoln be just as good. Thanks
CT1 silicone is excellent - very high quality product. 18mm hardwood ply would be excellent too - very strong
Thanks for the advice
@@javidyousuf 18mm is the minimum recommendation, but will be a rock solid base for the shower tray. Also CT1 is fantastic, but for wet areas, you need to use BT1, same company.
Hiya. Thanks for the video. What make trap is that ? Are they manufactured good and seal good ?
It's a Mira trap, and they're very good. They are a vortex waste trap so that the water is sucked and pushed down the drain, but still leaves a trap of water to block smells. I think they're great
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Do you have a link to the one you have used? I believe I had the same fitted but it's pooling water in the tray. Troubleshooting at present. Thanks.
amzn.to/3QL7qrL
Try this one - it's the same type as I used
I'm planning to install a shower tray on floor board. Would you recommend chip board on top of wooden floor or take floor board patch out for tray and replace with 18mm board
Remove the floorboards and use an 18mm marine ply.
How do you want your shower tray to fit, flush with the flooring, or sitting higher than the floor, or if it's 1200mm or shorter in length, risers? If you want it sitting flush, then remove timber floor and replace with 18mm minimum plywood, tank it first. But you'd need to figure out the height of the floor, in order to know if you need more than 18mm. Don't forget to use a flex seal tape around the shower tray. Also do not dot and dab the adhesive/sealant on the base of the shower tray, you need to squeeze golf ball sizes on it, so when it's pushed down, the adhesive will expand out and fully seal the areas it's supposed to.
What did you prime the board with and why? Thanks, very helpful vid.
Just with normal PVA to give it an additional layer of protection. SBR would also be good.
It's less about sticking it down and more about protection
@@OfficeBoyBuilder PVA is water soluble, SBR isn't, and that's why it's recommended. I'm doing one myself; your videos have proved very useful. Fortunately, all my rafters are perfectly level!
Hopefully you glued the nut on the trap. They can work themselves loose over time. When you stick the tray down, put big blobs of silicone/adhesive on instead of tiny beads. Good effort though.
Which nut do u mean
I’ll be fitting one of these next month
@@boyasaka the one on the trap 😂
Nice job
Carry on mate good content!
Cheers mate, appreciate the encouragement!
Great video, thanks !!
Thanks!
Should never reduce down on waist pipes mate. That tee should have been 40mm and replaced what's going out through the wall in 40mm you have just created a 8mm lip this is going to become a problem in the very near future
Should really wait 24hrs for glue to set before testing.
I would have put silicone on both sides of that seal on trap, putting sealant on top ring will do little or nothing. And just touching on what someone else mentioned, that silicone won't stick that down, it wasn't even touching. Some manufacturers insist it's sat on sand cement to support tray fully.
The official mira video shows there installer using silicone to stick it down
Unlike most other resin shower trays which have a totally flat smooth base , the Mira flight has a reinforced pattern on the under side as I can see in the vid
No silicone on the bottom - if the rubber gasket doesn't seal properly when tightened silicone will only be a sticking plaster and the seal will eventually fail anyway. These Mira trays do not need to be bedded on sand and cement.
Lol the silicon isn’t even getting a hold to the ply, you should of used Stixall and put ALOT more on than that! You lifted the tray a few times and the silicon hadn’t squashed!
Had he actually used a decent amount of silicone instead of those pidly little beads he did apply it would have adhered or 'squished down better.
The main issue is using PVA... you never use PVA as it simply forms a skin on the surface which can and does peel off which defeats any ability of the likes of silicon, CT1 etc from doing their job!
TBH you should not really try sticking trays like this or even tiles for that matter to timber/ply. Instead you should use cement board or a backer board as they actually give a decent grab to any adhesives you use.
Failing that and given he does (in many of his other videos) admit he's just an amateur DIYer he should have used acrylic sealer as that does not form a skin like standard PVA and wound at least give a bit of grab to his silicon!
Oh.. and if you don't believe me about the PVA bit... give it a go with either your hand or a bit of timber. Coat one surface with pva, let it dry and then stick a bit of silicon or the like on top. Once dry just peel away.... and it does! 🙄
Yes I was thinking that about the sealer. Ct1 or silicone onto ply your not getting that up in a hurry.
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 yeah I completely agree with you on that. I’ve never seen the ply being glued that’s for sure 😂🤦🏼🤦🏼
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 I've snapped trays in half trying to get them out with silicone holding them on ply normally takes a skin of ply with it too.
@@Sparks1Plumbers0 the official MIRA channel and instillation video for the Mira flight tray , says to stick it down with Silicone
So yea you can use cement ( and should never use tile adhesive
Silicone is the way Mira say
But yea pva is crap and never should be used
SBR all the way
That joist you've cut for the waste, wow! No way that would pass building regs, you've completely destroyed that joists integrity.
If you think that's bad you should see what the previous owner has done to mine when I've just lifted the floor up.....Christ almighty. I am in disbelief.