DO NOT Fit a Shower Tray Until You've Watched This
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Roger tells us why shower trays crack and how bedding your shower tray on tile adhesive is not a good idea.
Avoid a cracked shower tray and see what Roger has to say about this common issue.
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#ShowerTray #Bathrooms #ShowerRoom
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I bumped into a customer the other day who I did a complete bathroom install for , she told me how good it was and how happy they were with it . That was over ten years ago I fitted that one and shockingly I made a profit doing it ..do it once do it right earn the bragging rights
I wouldn’t really call that a rant, I’d call it passionate instruction😁 as as ever fantastic video!!
As an enthusiastic DIY'er, I'm so glad I've followed your guidance on my ensuite refit. Several times I've thought "this is overkill". But even though the refit has been very slow, following your belt and braces approach has definitely paid dividends, and as I near completion, I'm confident it's as good an installation as I would have got anywhere. Thanks for all this generous information Roger - much appreciated.
Last tray I fitted, I fretted for a few days on whether to use sand cement or go with “modern way” of tile adhesive or worse, ct1 et al. Stuck with tray recommendations (for guarantee) and went with sand cement and sbr. Not a plumber, so good to hear it’s still best way.
I've always been put off these shower trays. I'm a DIYer and I've always put in the shower tray forms made from tile backing boards and tiled on top. They look so much better and they're easy to do. If you need to lower the floor, use 22mm ply, cut out the tray area, fix ply between the joists using noggins, leaving just enough space and no more for the drain to go in.
I'm also very pleased at your comments regarding backing boards as I've always thought they were a good idea. If there's any chance it getting wet, use a backing board. Seal and then tape the joins and any screws / washers you've used.
The images at the 21 min mark are exactly how I've done it, including the HansGrohe ibox which is a great piece of engineering. I wasted my time in the past with cheaper taps and fittings and none have lasted anywhere near as long.
So it's good to see a professional of your standing reassuring me that I'm doing it the right way. Will be doing another 3 on my new build house later this year. Looking forward to it.
Renovating my flat i’ve just bought which was only built in 2005 (flats built on the quick and cheap). Plasterboard in both bathrooms, chipboard floors with lino in both, tap outlets and screw holes in tiles for shower screen not sealed. completely rotten under bath, loads of mold under lino which spread beyond the bathroom. had to rip up all the floors in the flat. Thanks to your videos i’ve used proper backing-board, sealed it all up etc, videos have helped me so much thanks.
Need more trades men like you Rodger I appreciate your time and effort you put in these vids. Keep up the good work!
This guy is spot on. Massive portion of common sense and I have even learned something before I fit my son's 44kg resin flush base as I WAS going to use tile adhesive but not now!
You just KNOW when someone really knows what they are talking about, a mix of technical knowledge, experience and common sense.
Just about to fit shower tray and you’ve answered so many questions. Absolutely brilliant, thanks for great advice!
Sbr. Mapei Flexible tile adhesive. Mapei tanking kit. Mcalpine waste. Dow 785 silicone.
Winning. 👌🏼
no nonesense grab adhesive below the tray and no nonesense silicone as your first seal, Dow as your second seal is just as good.
It's all about the prep work, cut out all the old shit and replace it properly, the materials are inconsequential except when it comes to silicone and mildew
Thanks at last a common sence approach to fitting trays. I'm an electrician but the number of times I've been on jobs and seen the Bodge it and Scarper crew doing things is unbelievable. Most never even pick up instructions let alone read them, they think they know better than the manufactures.
Brilliant. Not a rant, just a professional, passionate about what he does and wanting to do the very best job for the customer. Some really great tips. Nice one.
This is great information. I'm installing a shower myself in an en suite and this has given me the confidence to do it, and to do it right first time.
Thanks Roger, for your great presentation, well done!. I would add a couple of hints that may be of use. Before setting the tray, coat all the bearing timber surfaces (all the edges, top and underside, including any existing floor cuts.) with a coat of thin bitumen or ‘black Jack’ or similar water proofing that won’t affect the tray adhesion, ‘just to prevent safety’! It’s an easy quick thing to do and ensures any potential leak won’t destroy the subfloor. “Silicon” make absolutely sure you use ‘marine’ grade silicon! Agree, the grate rubber seal is best fitted without additional silicon. It can ‘thin and wear, that potentially leaves a slight gap and a pig to remove for any reason. I’d never tile again. Shower panelling with a pvc quarter bead in vertical corner(s). PVC finished sheets can be adhered direct to 11mm Sterling board, if it’s stud wall. But the more expensive sub panels If it’s a brick wall but if your tight for cash, a double coat of quality mixed cement would be as good. Get it flat and true. It Takes a time to dry! If using a timber panel substrate this is protected with my favourite, ‘aqua panel’. Again, paint say 300mm of the base of the timber sub panel with thin bitumen. ‘Black Jack, again to ‘prevent safety’ Capillaration through any weak joint, especial at the base will destroy any wooden backing panel. But if coated with black jack a foot up or so will stop that from happening. I’d caution any enthusiast, this job isn’t for the careless, or the sloppy. Your sins will find you out and may need to be redone, such is the damage water can do.
Black Jack will stink the bathroom up for years.
All very eminently valid points. I had my bathroom floor completely relayed with marine 18mm ply as the base. Backer board is definately the way to go for the area around the shower. As you say - a couple of hundred pounds is not a deal breaker. Rather a longer term solution to the problems of water / damp getting into the substrates.
Hi Roger, great video as always. I've fitted a good few shower trays. I just followed the instructions they said sand and cement. It's cheap. It works. But there's never any explanation why... Wouldn't the manufacturer be benefiting from informing the installer why to use sand and cement.. to be honest I've primed the floor and the underside of the tray to try and improve the bond.. and I've often wondered if I'd be doing a better job using more expensive tile adhesive. I understand the limitations of sand and cement as well. Laid thin over a suspended floor it probably will dry out and break up eventually. What it sounds like it wants is an isolating membrane. In which case perhaps the flexible, cementitious tile adhesive and (maybe something better than) polythene sheet would be the best way as the tile adhesive should hold up better on the subfloor. I've also used Hardie backer, aqua panel, Wedi boards.. once you've tried the foam sandwich boards, I guarantee you won't want to go back cement or aqua panel. It's lighter, cuts easier, performs better. It's well worth it. That's my view on it anyway..
I'm agonising over how to lay one myself for the first time. So many different ideas to absorb! Sounds like a decoupling membrane over the ply, then tile adhesive might be ok? I'll be using that for the floor tiles so could then have a continuous membrane which is an appealing idea.
Sound advice from an experienced plumber/bathroom fitter. Learnt a few useful thinks from Roger's video. Totally agree with the sand/cement bed for shower tray and the backer boards on the walls. I'm fitting a Crosswater 1200 x 800 stone resin shower tray at the moment and so glad I watched the video before I started working on my long overdue bathroom renovation.
My resin shower tray had massive air bubbles at the mating surface where the trap was supposed to seal against. I used a massive length of plumbers mait to fill the gaps before fitting the trap. Also I fretted over getting the sand and cement base support even across the whole tray. Only to discover later that if you bought the shower tray raiser kit it stood on four feet one in each corner so total even support was not actually necessary just support to each corner!
As a DIYer I made up my own method which has been fine for 20years. I levelled the tray with four blocks of wood screwed to the floor meaning I had as much time as I needed using trial and error to get it perfectly level. Then I laid many dobs of sand and cement to allow it to squish out until the tray sat on the wood blocks. This may not be the right way but it worked fine for me.
Here here Roger! TANKING and PLY & NOGGINS... I've done too many bathrooms that I know have the Vertical Lambada going on and never had a problem!
Love this. I'm a pro bathroom fitter and still plenty to learn from Roger.
fitted a few resin trays in my time over here on reno jobs in france and have often siliconed the trays to well nogged plywood floors - as yet no cracked trays - a thin bed of lean mortar sounds like it may disintegrate over time with movement? - always enjoy your videos
Defo over time ,if the tray isn't stuck down you will defo get creaking and the customer will ask why is my shower tray lose ,fix it down ,never had a problem in 21 years
Great video, just the way I do it except I put silicone under tray as it's flexible and doesn't affect tray, never had a problem. Also I always use a classy seal around the tray and epoxy swimming pool grout in the shower area.
As a Bathroom/Wetroom fitter surprised you even mention Plasterboard of any sorts in a wet area Roger !
Started using Wediboard 20 years ago with all the sundries and never had a problem. The amount of Plasterboard / Plywood failed showers I've removed with a coating of " Waterproofer " is no joke !
Spend the extra money 💰 its more than worth it !
Derek
I am in complete agreement and I did say that I wouldn't use it but the British Standard does allow it if the walls are tanked. I think I explained that it is quicker and easier to use tile backer board and I tell the customer that if they want plasterboard I am not the man for the job. I have never had a customer argue with me on this.
what he says about joists and noise transmission is true - mine and my neighbours joists run into each other and we can hear everything. Good thing we like each other!
excellent video! Every British builder, handy man who thinks he can build a bathroom etc needs to watch this. I have had no end off problems with showers that had been build onto wooden floors wrongly. I am very very weary of doing that now. I also think that normal life around a shower tray (ie footsteps etc) causes vibrations on the floorboards, etc that so often are not dampened properly around showertrays and over time affect the seals around the shower tray. Or and even more importantly, people standing in shower trays. have you ever checked how the tray flexes when a heavy person use a shower tray. sigh ..
As a customer its not easy to know if fitter is good and decent. The supposed schemes of trusted traders don't seem to be trustable. If you show any level of interest like asking if elements board will be used they might say yes but come installation its plaster board or marine ply and they will claim its better and been used for years - once the job is started are you going to tell them to down tools and leave it, not likely.
Love your vids. I’ve taken up a few shower trays in the past to be replaced with bigger ones.
I’ve noticed where they had been bedded on sand and cement it’s crumbled up and all loose. Think this must be partly due to constant movement of using tray.
Does sand and cement eventually dry out and shrink. It can be confusing what to use (manufactories recommendation). 30 years ago my old boss used expanding foam on a disabled shower tray for wheel chairs and never weighted it down came back the next day and it was 6 inches above the floor.
your boss used the wrong foam. You can buy "low expansion" foams that are dense and used as adhesive.
I use tec 7 under the tray job done. Sand and cement is a disaster on ply wood it just cracks and crumbles.
@@Martin-pr6ps Is it ok on cement subfloor (on ground level) though? This mix is in instructions/guarantee for stone resin tray I'm about to order? Advice appreciated.
@@DD-xt6vo yes its perfect for cement floor. Just make sure its level.
@@Martin-pr6ps are you saying his sand and cement advice is wrong? ...i need to know as i was gonna use it.
I'll wager there are a few peeps watching this thinking "Shit..." 🤔
😂
......yep
He’s wrong about how he fixes a tray with sand and cement for starters.....
@@delboy6384 please explain further to help us
I'm a DIYer..... My shower tray arrives in 2 days..... I thought I'd check this video out first.... Good job I did!!!! I was going to lay out straight on the cupboard!!!!
All the walls in my bathrooms are plasterboard and the house is only 15 years old..... Is it a new regulation not to use it for around showers???
AYE AYE 2 people in a shower, oo la la. Good vid again Roger
Love your vids, Professional at work. Spot on with all your subjects, you explain the pros and cons and with the benefit of years of experience whether or not you consider it a sound proposition or not. Never put me wrong yet! Keep up the really excellent work from a long time DIY enthusiast.
After watching this I have no concerns with how I fitted mine; of course I watched loads of skill builder vids and asked for some pointers on a previous post (and got some good advice).
Wedi Tile backer, joint seal tape and liquid seal, 10mm ply base on the floor + pro seal to waterproof it, sand and cement with a slug of Mapei included for the tray fit, Wedi sealant between the tray and the wall to hold it and give an extra seal, solvent welded waste run, screw collar trap with a long thread on, plug the end and filled the trap with water to leak test. So far so good...
Leak proof membrane to put on the tray edge and I’ll be on with tiling.
Cheers Roger
Simon
I'm a floor and roof designer by trade. All joists coming into party walls will be designed on hangers, this is something the nation builders use as standard practice. Joist spanned their shortest distance is the cheaper option too. This only applies to new builds. Love your videos though.....
Yes I was really thinking about older building. Joist hangers have changed the game somewhat. My mistake
@@SkillBuilder
Your exactly right though Roger - I’ve got a 50 year old townhouse and the joists span party wall to party wall and are built into the bricks.
@@SkillBuilder I worked in a Victorian property and the joists on the landing went into the party wall. The bloke next door would spark up a fat one and you could smell it on the house.
@@SkillBuilder my mum's house is a semi and the joist go in to the party wall and you can smell next door neighbor cooking. It's a house built 1960
Hello Roger. I have watched this 3 or 4 times now, very helpful and interesting. My plumber, when asked , said he was going to use tile adhesive to install my mira flight tray if the floor isn't very level. I told him I wanted sand and cement to keep the warranty valid. I then found another video of yours where you were actually installing a mira flight, but you put silicone on the bottom, so now I'm confused.
I hope I don't have the waste issues you did, 4 or 5 trays later .
Thank you for your time
Yes sorry Jules
If you get the reinforced back tray that is perfectly flat and has leg positions you can use silicone but the sand and cement will compensate for an uneven or out of lever floor. If you have a resin cast tray then you must use the sand and cement base.
Thanks so much for this, I'm in the middle of refitting our ensuite and have watched most/all of your stuff on shower trays/enclosures. So much more confident going into the job now and looking forward to getting it done.
This was unbelievable useful. I've got a few questions to ask my bathroom fitter tomorrow x
We had our small bathroom converted into a wet room some years ago. Took them three attempts. They made near every mistake here and some. Water puddled in various areas instead of down the waste pipe (what’s a spirit level?),. Wall tiles were spaced using bits of cardboard (dirt cheap reusable spacers not an option?). The floor tiles around the toilet broke because undersurface wasn’t flat (bare floorboards are perfect for a wet room?). They seem to have done it right in the end and gave a partial refund, but watching this and taking a good look, I see early signs didn’t they tank the shower area properly. Glad I noticed it now, thank you very much.
Our house is 18 yrs old and the tiles are now coming loose in the en-suite and water is dripping into the lounge..I’m going to have to rip it all out and follow Rogers advice. Great video.
This is an unbelievably high quality instructional video. You are the man.
Hi Roger, just about to fit my own Shower and this tutorial has been absolutely first class. Many thanks.
Do you have a video on the fitting of Tile backer board?
yes we have lots. Go to our Home Page and type in Bathroom or shower and lots of videos will show up
as a keen diyer your videos are always insightful and on this subject it's not just a reflection on the building trade it's reflection on our society in general. We have a skill shortage in absolutely everything we need in this country and it's getting worse. Nobody wants to do a proper job, everyone just wants to get rich quick. We can't seem to build or repair anything to a high standard anymore.
Cheers. Opened my eyes to the process of putting in a shower tray. Doing my mother's in the next month or so.
Keep the videos coming.
The problem I found with our low profile tray, is it was set perfectly level by the edges, but there is a slight dip in the middle of the tray that doesn't drain
Having done years of insurance work, I’ve seen more shower trays fail with sand and cement underneath than I ever have tile adhesive
different to Australia, but the basic ideas are the same. so many showers leak here because builders cut corners on waterproofing.
Excellent video. Did not detect a "rant" more free "experience" to many installers and DIY'ers. Thank you.
Bloody hell that's a lot of work. Put in a tub with a wrap around curtain. Done. :)
10/10 mate. Excellent advice.
B Percival
Oh how I hate that shower curtain on the side of the bath. I would rather go outside and stand in the rain.
I now no longer "don't know what I don't know!" Super confidence inspiring, insightful video delivered with enthusiasm and conviction. Thank you for the schooling - As a landlady who has been stung a number of times, I now feel more confident to oversee future work(person)ship ;-}. Also more appreciative of what goes into a good job and the importance of advance planning ref trap / joists positioning. Big Thank You.
Great video, very informative! Thanks for the uncoupling tip with the tile adhesive. Looks like it’s better to use sand and cement and it’s cheaper!
Again as always sound advice from a true professional. Thankfully I had watch your shower vids when I, was installing our new bathroom. Followed your hints and tips, and now have a wonderful new walk in shower. Many thanks Roger
We moved into our house in 1986 and I installed a high sided resin shower tray soon after. Because the main down waste pipe is on the other side of the room, I had to run the shower waste past several joists, so simply built a timber frame to raise the shower tray, then ran the waste pipe to run around the outside of the bathroom with a gentle slope down. I don't think I bedded the tray on anything but if I did, I would probably have used silicone not something solid. The floor underneath is chipboard, the walls are plasterboard , which I tiled. The gap between the tiles and the shower tray were sealed with tile grout. So theoretically, everything I did was wrong it seems but it's never leaked or cracked in thirty five years !
Good to know
Great stuff. An hour watching you and I'm confident.... Enough to watch a few more hours before I start!
I once had a bathroom job, and the customer asked me if the shower tray would hold the weight of three adults, around 15 stone each, me, my girlfriend and my husband. I said jokingly I would have to come back and do a maximum stress test to see if it could hold the weight of four people I don’t weigh that much.
You get what you pay for, at least they are getting your experience for free! Well explained. cheers. Loving the channel.
100% on the tile backer board !
Thanks to your channel I have a list of materials and components that I want my bathroom renovation to have, the difficult part will be finding someone to do the job right ( I’ve done bits of plumbing and tiling, they have turned out pretty decent but nothing is ever going to be perfect when it’s someone’s first attempt at it )
Sheffield Home Hero. My business could help you out. I'm uploading photos of recent bathroom project tomorrow.
@@mark-jonathanwilkinson2994 Thanks Mark, I’ll check out your Facebook / website.
Damn Roger you are a great teacher mate. A natural at explaining things to be super clear. Glad I got to see this before the shower base install.
Thanks, that means a lot to me.
@@SkillBuilderhi Roger. At 12:30, you say to use the polythene, are you also advising to comb tile adhesive on top of the polythene too when bedding the trap on top of it?
Hi Roger, thank you for the advise. I am getting quotes off trades people for en suite at the moment. One said plasterboard to me and alarm bells were ringing. I am thinking I will just do it myself now as I have more confidence in myself and the availability of trades people at the moment is months away.
I think you could do well with it, and the money you save on the labour you can spend putting in the right things to make it a quality job.
I never use sand and cement. I cover the ply with foam then sheets of newspaper. The newspaper means you can lift the tray easily if there's a problem. The weakest point is always the tray/tile interface and 99% of leaks occur there. I put in a self adhesive rubber up-stand and butyl rubber seal it as well. Leave a decent gap under the tile so grout can easily be pressed in. No need for silicone as a primary seal or even bother with it anyway.
As a house builder who has built many many semi detached houses, I can tell you straight up the joists will go to the party wall, you have cavity between houses and the span is smallest outer to party than going front to back
You can use a Ditra membrane on plasterboard. Just make sure it overlaps the tray or use the schluter caulk to create an impervious barrier in that area. They are the top name in waterproofing
Roger, great video Sir! Recently purchased a shower tray like this at auction. Never realised it was concrete! Good clear instructions that I will follow, thank you for sharing.
Great video. Thankfully I live in The Netherlands where wooden floors are only found in older homes. I hope installing my tray will be relatively easy on my concrete floor :)
Just replacing my cracked shower tray.... wow!
Cleaning all the mould away, and can see that the shower tray was only supported by 4 adjustable legs. Glad I'm now having a go my self.
Bloody hell I’ve installed loads of shower tray using tile adhesive . 😄
Make sure your passport is up to date !
Excellent video Roger. Had i seen this 12 years ago, I would have installed our en-suite much differently. I will certainly be following your tips when it comes to redoing it.
It’s lasted 12 years and counting, I’d consider it a job well done personally. Having said that, I’m watching these videos to learn how to redo mine, if the kids and I don’t fall through it first. So, enquiring minds want to know, what did you do that was different to this guy and still worked? And would it be considered a mistake? Because I’d prefer my mistakes to come to end with a still functional bathroom, it’d be nice to know in advance which ones aren’t too detrimental. 😆
Thank you Roger. I appreciate the in depth and detailed instruction.
Another great explanation Roger, this will be a good link for the customers to watch when they get a quote.
You get what you pay for...
A timely video 😂. Few things I’ve learnt of late on jobs..... there’s more than one way to skin a cat, BUT there’s only one way to get the manufacturer’s guarantee. Hardy backer isn’t water proof but won’t disintegrate in water. If you’ve not flattened it out don’t tile it. And cheap large tiles will always need levelling clips 😂
It’s right what u said about the tray being very close to flush with the finished floor level makes for a more easily accessible shower cubicle but for fitting and maintenance purposes it’s a problem raising the tray up on 4 *2 s keeping the trap to the front and having an access panel makes it just so much more install and user friendly for future with the bonus of a greater flow fall and not having to worry about the joist direction it ticks a lot of box’s that way but heh I do know that aphetically it not as sleek to look at and a lot of clients do want the tray as close to the floor as possible
Very informative and I wholly understand the need to support the entire underneath of the tray incase of the dreaded crack😱, my only query is when using a leg riser kit do I put ply on top of the riser legs then a mortar bed on the ply then the tray on top of the mortar bed ?
Great advice. Thanks for taking the time to explain properly 👍🏻
Great video as always Roger very enlightening 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Great vid as always Roger though don't agree with the joist run as I've always known them to run side to side rather than front to back in semis. Certainly mine, and my sons and many other I've seen do. Totally sympathise with the rant. Really annoys me when builders use plasterboard in wet areas.
Semi here where joists run side to side at the back of the property, and front to back at the at front. :)
We use aqualine here.. shower tray is recessed into the plasterboard and more often than not we use an acrylic shower liner .. any tiles that is used we apply a waterproof membrane..
Morning Pal ..... you're spot on great tip with the poly ( Thanks for that ) I fit loads of these ..Always backer board and tank ..ya gotta do it folks ..... the amount of leks I've seen from lack of tanking even is unbelievable .... Once again Pal thanks for all the tips .. Loving all these Vids 38 years on site and still learning
I feel quite drained but enlightened after this...
Top quality vidio bro we've had nothing but agro with our shower leaking through the bow stairs ceiling and now we know why. Thanks so much for your help
The bodges I come across are unreal - " well that's how it's done, and that's how I'm doing it" .....! Like you very clearly said, it is best not to do the job than to do it badly. I tend to avoid tiling and use a shower wall panelling, removing all those porous joints. I've also seen tiles applied so many times without spacers!! And we all know what happens then, they blow or crack. Even professional tilers have done this, they've done it in my house! Wet room floors are preferred, where a screed or former is laid flush with the floor and then vinyl sheet flooring applied over with a cove upstand that the shower wall can lip over, but the trays are fine as long as the manufacturers instructions are adhered to. I also think that being able to service the trap and waste is important. McAlpine make some great kit and their technical guy, sorry forgotten your name, is one of the best and helped us out of some very unusual situations. Sensible advice and great video as usual, well done.
Had to laugh. Live in a semi detached house. My joists run in the exact same way that you stated is very unlikely to run in a semi detached house.
This is wrong any way party wall joists sit on steel shoes to prevent fire noise etc miss informed on this one not like him.
@@darkviper62 Used to live in a well built late 1930s house, suspect joists had exactly noise problem described by Roger. Wouldn't be at all surprised if joists met in party wall and without any metal separators. New neighbours playing music in adjoining bedroom was a revelation - the sound was unhampered even by our wardrobes fited right across the party wall. As soon as Roger drew those joists I realised why the sound was so clear.
@@darkviper62 He was only stating it as a possibility. You have no idea what builders get up to when no one is looking.
@@xzox builder myself so yeah I do know what goes on a 1930s house might be built like that.
But not something newer.
Bedding not sticking..
Always a thorough explanation Rog
Great video! Out of all the channels I follow, this is the one I couldn’t unsubscribe from as it’s too useful. 😁👏
Great video. I am a Brit who does this work in Canada & the same applies here, funny that, it seems water is the same everywhere... Don't underestimate the value of the smallest technical details in building a tiled shower or tub back splash. The most destructive thing in a home after fire is water, you must control were it goes & keep it contained where it belongs.DON'T go cheap on the sub surface materials...
I bought a MIRA Tray and they sent this type of waste i found it sealed perfect i only had to hand tighten no silicone . The Mira instructions said you could use cement or silicone to fit the tray so i used silicone . I did use 22mm chipboard under the shower but glued and screwed to the joists so it was solid ive had no leaks or issues whatsoever . Cant understand why people use plasterboard i used sts board from Wickes and it did a great job , i
Those Mira trays are great
Mate, you described exactly what just happened to me. I just bought a flat, and within two weeks I discover a leak in the shower. I decide to take off the shower walls and surely enough it’s only water resistant plasterboard with no waterproof membrane at all. The entire plasterboard wall is mouldy. The flat was only converted 5 years ago and the plumber apparently didn’t do his job. I have decided to take this into my own hands and will build a new shower up to the best standards, probably using Schluter Kerdi Boards.
When you fit the shower tray you must weigh it down with bricks or sand bags to pull them down fully before blobbing the tiled wall and leave them there until the seal goes off, otherwise the tray will leak soon after you start weighing the tray down when you step into it.
What an excellent professional tradesman
I coated my 18mm plywood with fibreglass resin, top, bottom and edges. Not because I expect water to leak from the tray, but because I will be putting a wet mix of 6:1 on it and it will take some time to dry out even after it is 'set' and I want to be 100% sure the plywood will not break down. The other issue is the drain. A fairly shallow fall but enough to tilt the waste trap. I had to slightly bend the pipe a few degrees using a heat gun in order for the trap seal to meet the shower base fully flat.
Great vid, just doing a shower room myself and didn't realise that the cement base doesn't actually stick to the base of the tray. So if it moves, the seals between the wall panels and the tray will break and it will leak. As I'm doing it myself, I'll have to think carefully about the length of guarantee I'll tell my wife. :) seriously though, if you fell in the shower, that kind of bump would be sufficient to move the shower tray me thinks, so I'll have to think this through a bit.
You can stop the tray from moving by applying silicone against the wall. You will also have tiles around the floor area. The sand and cement will be fine with a weak 5 to 1 bond which allows the mortar to shrink . If you go too strong or use tile adhesive it can crack a resin cast tray by holding it too firmly. Foam core trays can be stuck with tile adhesive if the instruction say so.
You are a national treasure, sir!
Thank you, very informative, what about fitting a shower tray onto a concrete floor?
RIGHT ON !!! GREAT JOB DESCRIBING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Scrimping on cost or time only causes bother later. Thanks for the video Roger.
I always tell the customer that the tiles aren’t there just to stop the water, they’re more decorative. The water resistance happens behind the tiles. If you rely on the tiles then you’re more than likely to have issues in the future.
Last one i did was 18mm p5 flooring on the walls all joints poly glued, two coats of tanking, flexible adhesive, tiles waterproof grouting and i can sleep at night.
Good stuff
good advice there - thanks!
Brilliant vid Roger..........i come across ALL these problems time after time...........Cheers mate.
For best performance and long life I always recommend shower panels as they are water proof, unlike tiled walls which are only water resistant and get dirty easily and are very hard to keep clean. I would also recommend an upstand shower tray. This set up does not rely on silicone to prevent leakage. If you want it to look nice with no silicone showing, use a pvc shower seal strip. This hides the silicone under the plastic and allows for plenty of movement. Personally I have always used tile adhesive to stick down the tray and never had a problem. I would also think that using silicone to both sides of the tray against the wall could also put strain on the tray itself if there was movement in the floor. Completely agree with the hardibacker etc on the walls and ply for the floor. Always take maximum precaution if you are fitting a shower upstairs as the damage from leakage can be extensive and expensive. A shower fitted in this way will give you many years of reliable service and save you money in the long run.
Hi Eazthehitman fantstic I love your way the best !!!!! How can i contact you 😃
I see why you would say that but in my case I had the shower connections leak after about 7 years and this would have soaked the plasterboard and possibly cause mould/rot especially if it went un-noticed for a long time. I suppose aqua plasterboards would be ok. For me I'm belt and braces when it comes to showers so tend to used the best available products.
I think you mean weakest at ita thinnest portion.excellent video Sir
Very informative instruction. How to do it right! All good and essential info. I’m installing on a slab and still really glad I found this.
As always great videos, love the passion and enthusiasm in your teachings. I am learning so much from this. Thank you skilled builder!