Best explanation of real world scenarios and descriptions here. I’ve been in this trade a little over 8 years, the last 5 90% service. The legit pages like yours helped me understand this broad trade not only quicker but much more clear. Up and coming new techs installers, or experienced ones, listen to this Man! One of the Best instructors out there and he’s delivering it all for free. I’d say most of us only work so we can make some dang money, and the more knowledge you have, the more you’ll make. Thank you for the continuous content!’
As a technician of 27 years, I still love watching these videos and it's weird when I was just talking to one of my co. Workers who's trying to get into air conditioning. We had almost the same numbers on a unit on the roof and I questioned him on what could cause that. And this brings me right to the point. If it's rainy and you're doing fresher intake and with no return. If you've got 60 to 65° outside there and you're not moving too much air across that coil. Because most of the supply registers are closed, you're gonna freeze. And it's amazing that within a few seconds of seeing the numbers on the gauge, I already knew what the problem was. It's like they always teach if you can see what's going on inside the unit in your head. You can add anything you want and take away any part you want. And it still makes no difference to your. Knowledge
You are truly a blessing Craig. Thank you so much for clearing this up. I ran into this problem just this week and it turned out to be low heat load. Thank you again.
Just checked my r22 system, sat of 10 deg. No wonder it would freeze. Thanks for all of you help over the years. i'm finally swapping out my old system. Going all the way, inverter aciq, their 2 stage furnace and coil (built in txv). Wish me luck. Your tips over the years helped me get my 608 for sure.
It is a real pleasure listening to your concise/thorough explanations for each topic you cover and how you tie each relevant piece together. Keep up the great work and videos
Something to add for the new guys…. If u run into an EEV system with a single stage outdoor unit (ie tam9 with XR condenser) do not assume it’s low when you start it up and see 80 psi suction, give the valve and sensors some time to do their thing.
Excellent video Craig. You have seriously made me a better tech over the years. I’m subscribed to about 50 different HVAC techs on TH-cam and maybe one or two actually ever check superheat. Usually they always shoot for 20° of superheat. I always, always check superheat when I have a piston. Thanks for everything you do. John Jennings is another excellent teacher. There’s a few of you out there.
Man you have helped me tremendously! Been doing this almost a year and I understand a lot of it coming from mechanical industry. your videos help me absorb the hard concepts like this. Doing furnaces in the winter is cake but ac is a wild animal. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
On hard to diagnose systems, I like to Reclaim and charge system to a calculated weigh in charge. That way you have a reliable base line to work from. Don't worry about drift on 410 it's negligible
one would need to know how long the line set is in order to figure out how much to weigh back in. Sometimes it can be estimated correctly and sometimes not so easily.
Nice video. I'm looking for help on a different issue. My heatpump makes a loud mechanical noise only on startup for a second or two as it always has. TIA
Make sure your fan is not loose, make sure your condenser is secured all around, & fan not wabling, check your coil If it's dirty, disconnect the power from the electrical panel take the sides of your condenser clean the coil with water house be gentle the the coil is soft, if you had to take the fan to take the sids , write down what wire goes where and take pictures, you have to disconnect the electric wires, or get you different markers mark the wires, whatever helps you remember to put the wires back where they were, don't be careless put all the screws in secured place, safty must be your number one priority, [ the compressor information is on the condenser it's usually right outside check around u will find very important take good pictures of it print it out and keep it, check the compressor Amp If the Amp is too high go get you a hard start kit, it can help you compressor if the problem is your compressor. If you have a newer unit that's otherwise in great condition, installing a hard start kit is a solid choice. However, with older compressors, a hard start kit may not be worth installing
At atmospheric pressure that is the boiling point. Inside a sealed system the refrigerant is under different pressures which changes the boiling point. Hope that helps
Has anyone had used the ebook E-Book - Refrigerant Charging and Service Procedures for Air Conditioning. I'm new to the hvac field and trying to learn as much as possible. Just curious if this would be a good reference material.
Make sure to read the reviews on Amazon for the book. There are literally thousands of reviews there. I saw this note yesterday and was hoping another youtube viewer would answer you here, thanks!!
@@0518maddog Get his regular book and quick card. I threw away his ebook and bought regular book. Ours brain work better with paper book and you can write notes.
Craig, it's a minor suggestion but in the future can you match T1 temps to suction and T2 to liquid line? Makes it easier to view temps when comparing suction to liquid instead of having to reverse them when comparing. Thanks!
12:14 Are we watching the same video? I see T1 on the left and T2 on the right of the gauge display and T2 is the higher number. EDIT: I see now that as the video plays, the readings go back and forth. At first, it seems that T2 changes to suction when displayed with the indoor unit on the right, so each temperature appears next to the component. But later, even with inside and outside shown T2 reflected discharge. It's inconsistent. Also, the photos always show the sensors on suction pipe for T2 even though the reading for T2 can sometimes be the high side temp.
@@realSamAndrew And that was my point to Craig. It is confusing going back and forth as the numbers change. It's like that on other videos as well. I would suggest that since your gauge set is ALWAYS low pressure left and blue, high pressure right and red, set up your temp display so that suction is on T1 and have it the first number on a real dual thermometer, and high side is on T2 and is the second number on a real dual thermometer. Things would be easily readable. It might be my OCD, but it just seems to make better sense that way! :)
@@Kevin-mm6xm I agree. But even without OCD, at least some of the illustrations are flat out wrong, not just annoying. For example the ones that the temperature and the placement on the pipe don't match. That's a factual error that should be corrected.
@@realSamAndrew Although the placement is not as critical to the overall information he's conveying, it would be nice to see it accurately portrayed as well. :)
@@Kevin-mm6xm what I'm describing IS critical. It's one thing if most students could "figure out" what was supposed to be printed, but if you're trying to study and you see a temp clamp on a blue side large pipe, and it reads 95 degrees, and you assume the teacher is always right, you would torture yourself for not grasping the material when in reality you did nothing wrong. The specific item I'm referring to is an actual "misprint", not simply a formatting choice.
Hi Mr. Craig! What are the recommended size hoses and low loss fittings to use when checking pressures and charging a system?? The thicker the better, right?
Hoses and gauges along with manifold rated for the pressures of the unit being serviced and or inspected. As a retired Stationary Engineer with a heavy background in HVAC/ACR to include centrifugal chillers, absorption units. I had a lossless hose with just gauge for low side and one for high side to do spot checks. Each setup was always rated to the refrigerant I was working with. If you're new always use a gauge Manifold set design OEM for the refrigerant(s) you will encounter during your normal course of work. As someone who started out when R11 was still in use and retired after R401 had been around for years. I had multiple setups for my usage.
This is why having a big air system is pointless. Spell a short cycle. And you're not gonna be removing any humidity from the air every time I go to a house. Somebody's like, yeah, I got a bigger unit. I'm like that's not better, that's worse
100%. Salesman told me that and it made sense. I went from a 4ton to a 2 stage 4 ton. Unit runs low and slow, never hear the air moving, never feel it moving across my skin. You are just…comfortable and you dont know how or why. Humidity was always 60+. Now it’s 50-55 in the summer. Soooooo good. Rarely, when it kicks on full blast, you can hear my return vents humming. But thats only when my wife changes the set temp to something crazy so I’ve put a code on the thermostat :-)
Slow down blower speed and next time when it’s time replace go, go down a ton or so. You could possibly add on the house, add a few ducts and increase the value on the home
I have a hard time trouble shooting the heat pump at work. It’s a water furnace heat pump with a txv for metering device. The head pressure was 195.9 PSIG/68.2 degrees F with a liquid line temperature of 176.7 degrees F and a suction pressure of 63.4 PSIG/ 10.8 degrees F and suction line temperature of 82.8 F. The outdoor temperature was 86 and the wet bulb temp was 64.7 F. The sub cool is below zero. - 108.3. That is way too low for the sub cool.
Just bought your book. I have a 12 year old trane 2 stage, 4 ton condenser/5 ton evaporator TXV, R-410A with 49.9 SH/1.9SC and low delta T. Is the system low on refrigerant or does the unmatched tonnage have anything to do with it?
Can you please create a video on charging a R410A package unit with a fixed metering device ? There’s not a single video out there that I can find out there.
We’ve been installing many variable speed compressor Heat Pump units to retrofit outdoor unit,while keeping existing indoor systems (mostly Carrier model MURA), and I personally think it’s a great move,given the low power consumption and favorable weather conditions (32F Winter/103F Summer min-max average). We have to replace TXV on many of them… What’s your opinion on the changing conditions on pressure on the TXV’s operation. Do you think they can handle such ranges and be expected to be reliable on long term? So far,so good. Just curious on your take on this subject. And before commenteers start bombarding with “Why not change the hole thing?” The simple answer is: The customer is not willing to make such investment at this time,and we are not in position to question their reasons,much less to tell them what to do for profit!
I'm curious as to what you mean exactly about the changing pressures on the txvs. You need two txvs on the system both designed for heat pump operation. The outdoor unit comes with one installed, you need to change the indoor one if it wasn't a hp before or a diff refrigerant as well. If system is charged correctly you will have the pressure differential needed at both valves to operate properly no matter what mode it's in. The txvs will do just fine as long as you followed proper installation practices
@@HVACRTECH-83 The Carrier MURA it’s an outdoor heat pump unit that comes with a variable speed compressor and sensor for temperature and pressure. The circuit boards asses and control condensing fan motor and compressor speeds based on the current operating conditions. In other words, it’s like a mini-split outdoor compatible with conventional furnace and coil or existing air handler. The point of these systems (GREE has one as well)is to work with existing line-set without insulation on the liquid line!
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend. May I ask, How about Heat Pump in Heat mode in the winter, How to check for ? is it the same or different. I love to watch your video ^_^
There is no sure way in heat mode. If it must be done in winter you can use a charging jacket, fieldpiece makes a good one but it's always best to charge by weight in the winter,get it running in heat mode then come do the full commissioning in late spring. In my area anyway, just make sure you're oa is over 70
I have a trane heat pump system with EEV, I have charged the system using subcooling, and it normalized yesterday to around 10 degrees subcooling, now today, it’s been fluctuating up and down, but mainly been low, between 4-6. This is frustrating because I don’t want to keep adding more refrigerant. Backstory: last winter, the compressor went out, and I replaced it. Charged it with weight as close as I could. A few days ago, I started using the cool mode and it ran for a day and then started to cycle, I would turn the breakers off to the system and wait a couple hours and then it would run for a while. Then it started to cycle again. I tightened all the blade connectors on all the wires and it’s been running properly today except the subcooling has been fluctuating up and down. Any ideas? Thank you!
Did you flush the system, evacuate the system to rid contamination, replace the filter dryer, clean the EEV screen when you changed the compressor? Sounds like non-condensables.
Long shot here, but hoping for a reply back, but any chance you still do service calls? I'm in NJ and have yet to find a competent technician that can actually diagnose anything properly. Any tech that I have had to my house just wants to go the route of "you need a new system", and I don't feel like they really take the time to do all that is needed to diagnose the issue properly to truly confirm that a new system is needed. Especially when the one I have is only 8-9 years old. UGH, help!
@@acservicetechchannel damn, thank you for the reply though. I enjoy learning from your videos. Part of me wants to hand them to the techs that come out and be like here, do this, lol.
@@Alex_hvac Hey Alex, thanks for the reply. I have a Goodman R410A, 3 ton unit with 80k BTU 80% gas furnace.The system is about 9 years old and does blow out cool air, but not ice cold. It is a fixed orifice system, not TXV, Delta T is only a 9 degree difference when I take measurements. The condensate pump barely ever kicks on and it's been over 90+ here in NJ as of late and that pump should be constantly expelling water. The coil isn't frozen and there is water in the pan. I also tested the pump and it works properly. I took a pic of the last tech's gauges when he was here. Wish I could post a pic here, but can't, so the best I can do is type it out. This is a Fieldpiece Digital Gauge he was using. R410A refrigerant Low Side: 161.5 PSIG 20.6 SH 57.0 VSAT////High Side: 223.4 PSIG -4.7 SC 76.2LSAT////Middle of Gauge: 75.7 ODDB 77.6 SLT 80.9LLT. The tech tried adding 2 lbs of refrigerant with no significant change of anything on the readout. He never measured anything within the house, didn't check the orifice to see if it was cleaned, the right size, in backwards (as someone a little while back did check the orifice, but this was at a time where I didn't try to educate myself on HVAC somewhat and just let them do their thing so I didn't have any input or questions as to what they were doing). So I'm kind of in the stages now of pricing out a brand new system since nobody can seem to figure this thing out. I'm not a professional I just watch videos on here to try and learn and help figure out what's going on. It's just annoying to keep having service techs out and nobody is giving me a definite answer as to the problem. I've made my piece with forking out the money to replace this system again already if it's truly condemned, but I would just love a confirmed answer as to what is wrong with it. Sorry for the huge book to read.
Dear sir IN R-22 system back pressure continuous going Downward and Discharge pressure going continuously upward what is the problem in system please help me
Best explanation of real world scenarios and descriptions here. I’ve been in this trade a little over 8 years, the last 5 90% service. The legit pages like yours helped me understand this broad trade not only quicker but much more clear. Up and coming new techs installers, or experienced ones, listen to this Man! One of the Best instructors out there and he’s delivering it all for free. I’d say most of us only work so we can make some dang money, and the more knowledge you have, the more you’ll make.
Thank you for the continuous content!’
Thank you for watching! I'm glad my videos have been helpful in understanding the wide world of HVAC!!
Truth! Have his cheat sheets in my tool bag and in the cab of the van. Easy reference wherever I am in the field!
As a technician of 27 years, I still love watching these videos and it's weird when I was just talking to one of my co. Workers who's trying to get into air conditioning. We had almost the same numbers on a unit on the roof and I questioned him on what could cause that.
And this brings me right to the point. If it's rainy and you're doing fresher intake and with no return. If you've got 60 to 65° outside there and you're not moving too much air across that coil. Because most of the supply registers are closed, you're gonna freeze. And it's amazing that within a few seconds of seeing the numbers on the gauge, I already knew what the problem was. It's like they always teach if you can see what's going on inside the unit in your head. You can add anything you want and take away any part you want. And it still makes no difference to your. Knowledge
You are truly a blessing Craig. Thank you so much for clearing this up. I ran into this problem just this week and it turned out to be low heat load. Thank you again.
Brother, you are a gem. Thank you for providing this invaluable service to techs and wanna be informed home owners.
I've been in this for 40 years. You do a very good job, son
Just checked my r22 system, sat of 10 deg. No wonder it would freeze. Thanks for all of you help over the years. i'm finally swapping out my old system. Going all the way, inverter aciq, their 2 stage furnace and coil (built in txv). Wish me luck. Your tips over the years helped me get my 608 for sure.
It is a real pleasure listening to your concise/thorough explanations for each topic you cover and how you tie each relevant piece together. Keep up the great work and videos
Thank you for watching my videos!!
Something to add for the new guys…. If u run into an EEV system with a single stage outdoor unit (ie tam9 with XR condenser) do not assume it’s low when you start it up and see 80 psi suction, give the valve and sensors some time to do their thing.
Excellent video Craig. You have seriously made me a better tech over the years. I’m subscribed to about 50 different HVAC techs on TH-cam and maybe one or two actually ever check superheat. Usually they always shoot for 20° of superheat. I always, always check superheat when I have a piston. Thanks for everything you do. John Jennings is another excellent teacher. There’s a few of you out there.
Jersey Mike HVAC is rising fast.
@@realSamAndrew Yep he's great too
Man you have helped me tremendously! Been doing this almost a year and I understand a lot of it coming from mechanical industry. your videos help me absorb the hard concepts like this. Doing furnaces in the winter is cake but ac is a wild animal. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks, Craig! Currently learning how to service condenser units in school and this helps a ton!! Appreciate everything you do!
Amazing video, well explained. No one makes better videos than you. Keep up the great work Craig!
I’ve seen wild head pressures and subcool due to sensing bulbs secured on brazed joints or loosely.
About to get back out in the field after a while stationary. Good refresher!
Please Please make more Videos like this. Meaning showing more TS Scenarios. I'm getting a more understanding of how the AC works with A TXV.
On hard to diagnose systems,
I like to Reclaim and charge system to a calculated weigh in charge.
That way you have a reliable base line to work from.
Don't worry about drift on 410 it's negligible
Best way to describe the situation!
A B C !
Air Before Charge !
Always check for proper cfm/ static pressure before adjusting refrigerant!
Your are supper amazing technician on TH-cam please make video on walk in freezer
Love these videos with these scenarios
Could there be a restriction in the actual service valve. Thanks for the video!
When in doubt weigh it out. Jonny Cochran of HVAC. 🤘⚡️🤘✨✨✨
one would need to know how long the line set is in order to figure out how much to weigh back in. Sometimes it can be estimated correctly and sometimes not so easily.
@@jdere31760 it’s not that hard.
we run our hvac to 60 on the thermostats we have 11 units a warehouse to keep wine chilled
Congrats on the new camera !
Nice video. I'm looking for help on a different issue. My heatpump makes a loud mechanical noise only on startup for a second or
two as it always has. TIA
Make sure your fan is not loose, make sure your condenser is secured all around, & fan not wabling, check your coil If it's dirty, disconnect the power from the electrical panel take the sides of your condenser clean the coil with water house be gentle the the coil is soft, if you had to take the fan to take the sids , write down what wire goes where and take pictures, you have to disconnect the electric wires, or get you different markers mark the wires, whatever helps you remember to put the wires back where they were, don't be careless put all the screws in secured place, safty must be your number one priority, [ the compressor information is on the condenser it's usually right outside check around u will find very important take good pictures of it print it out and keep it, check the compressor Amp If the Amp is too high go get you a hard start kit, it can help you compressor if the problem is your compressor. If you have a newer unit that's otherwise in great condition, installing a hard start kit is a solid choice. However, with older compressors, a hard start kit may not be worth installing
Can these same subcooling and superheat principles be used on commercial units like RTU’s? Given then have a TXV or piston/fixed orfice
10:07 My evaporator coil is my air filter. 🤦♂️😁
Great video as always 👍
Thanks for watching!
Please answer I'm waiting sir please please,🙏 If the boiling point of R22 gas is -40, then how does it convert from vapor to liquid in the condenser?
At atmospheric pressure that is the boiling point.
Inside a sealed system the refrigerant is under different pressures which changes the boiling point.
Hope that helps
It's my pleasure 👍❤️
Has anyone had used the ebook E-Book - Refrigerant Charging and Service Procedures for Air Conditioning. I'm new to the hvac field and trying to learn as much as possible. Just curious if this would be a good reference material.
Make sure to read the reviews on Amazon for the book. There are literally thousands of reviews there. I saw this note yesterday and was hoping another youtube viewer would answer you here, thanks!!
Yes I saw the reviews on the book on Amazon. Very impressive. I was just interested in the ebook but was not sure if it was as good as the book.
@@0518maddog Get his regular book and quick card. I threw away his ebook and bought regular book. Ours brain work better with paper book and you can write notes.
Craig, it's a minor suggestion but in the future can you match T1 temps to suction and T2 to liquid line? Makes it easier to view temps when comparing suction to liquid instead of having to reverse them when comparing. Thanks!
12:14 Are we watching the same video? I see T1 on the left and T2 on the right of the gauge display and T2 is the higher number.
EDIT: I see now that as the video plays, the readings go back and forth. At first, it seems that T2 changes to suction when displayed with the indoor unit on the right, so each temperature appears next to the component. But later, even with inside and outside shown T2 reflected discharge. It's inconsistent. Also, the photos always show the sensors on suction pipe for T2 even though the reading for T2 can sometimes be the high side temp.
@@realSamAndrew And that was my point to Craig. It is confusing going back and forth as the numbers change. It's like that on other videos as well. I would suggest that since your gauge set is ALWAYS low pressure left and blue, high pressure right and red, set up your temp display so that suction is on T1 and have it the first number on a real dual thermometer, and high side is on T2 and is the second number on a real dual thermometer. Things would be easily readable. It might be my OCD, but it just seems to make better sense that way! :)
@@Kevin-mm6xm I agree. But even without OCD, at least some of the illustrations are flat out wrong, not just annoying. For example the ones that the temperature and the placement on the pipe don't match. That's a factual error that should be corrected.
@@realSamAndrew Although the placement is not as critical to the overall information he's conveying, it would be nice to see it accurately portrayed as well. :)
@@Kevin-mm6xm what I'm describing IS critical. It's one thing if most students could "figure out" what was supposed to be printed, but if you're trying to study and you see a temp clamp on a blue side large pipe, and it reads 95 degrees, and you assume the teacher is always right, you would torture yourself for not grasping the material when in reality you did nothing wrong. The specific item I'm referring to is an actual "misprint", not simply a formatting choice.
Do you have any books or tutorials on heat pump system? Thanks
Are you blind ?
Look at the last minutes.
Calm down there big boy!
Remember not all mini split systems are heat pump. Some are just regular ac. Ok!
How is supposed to be the evaporator fan speed when I'll check Superheat? Thanks in advance.
Hi Mr. Craig! What are the recommended size hoses and low loss fittings to use when checking pressures and charging a system?? The thicker the better, right?
Hoses and gauges along with manifold rated for the pressures of the unit being serviced and or inspected. As a retired Stationary Engineer with a heavy background in HVAC/ACR to include centrifugal chillers, absorption units. I had a lossless hose with just gauge for low side and one for high side to do spot checks. Each setup was always rated to the refrigerant I was working with. If you're new always use a gauge Manifold set design OEM for the refrigerant(s) you will encounter during your normal course of work. As someone who started out when R11 was still in use and retired after R401 had been around for years. I had multiple setups for my usage.
This is why having a big air system is pointless. Spell a short cycle. And you're not gonna be removing any humidity from the air every time I go to a house. Somebody's like, yeah, I got a bigger unit. I'm like that's not better, that's worse
100%. Salesman told me that and it made sense. I went from a 4ton to a 2 stage 4 ton. Unit runs low and slow, never hear the air moving, never feel it moving across my skin. You are just…comfortable and you dont know how or why. Humidity was always 60+. Now it’s 50-55 in the summer. Soooooo good. Rarely, when it kicks on full blast, you can hear my return vents humming. But thats only when my wife changes the set temp to something crazy so I’ve put a code on the thermostat :-)
Slow down blower speed and next time when it’s time replace go, go down a ton or so. You could possibly add on the house, add a few ducts and increase the value on the home
Wow I just had this issue
I have a hard time trouble shooting the heat pump at work. It’s a water furnace heat pump with a txv for metering device. The head pressure was 195.9 PSIG/68.2 degrees F with a liquid line temperature of 176.7 degrees F and a suction pressure of 63.4 PSIG/ 10.8 degrees F and suction line temperature of 82.8 F. The outdoor temperature was 86 and the wet bulb temp was 64.7 F. The sub cool is below zero. - 108.3. That is way too low for the sub cool.
Just bought your book. I have a 12 year old trane 2 stage, 4 ton condenser/5 ton evaporator TXV, R-410A with 49.9 SH/1.9SC and low delta T. Is the system low on refrigerant or does the unmatched tonnage have anything to do with it?
Sorry 39.9 SH
Can you please create a video on charging a R410A package unit with a fixed metering device ? There’s not a single video out there that I can find out there.
A packaged unit with a piston would be charged the same way as a split system with a piston. Look up "ac service tech superheat".
We’ve been installing many variable speed compressor Heat Pump units to retrofit outdoor unit,while keeping existing indoor systems (mostly Carrier model MURA), and I personally think it’s a great move,given the low power consumption and favorable weather conditions (32F Winter/103F Summer min-max average).
We have to replace TXV on many of them… What’s your opinion on the changing conditions on pressure on the TXV’s operation. Do you think they can handle such ranges and be expected to be reliable on long term?
So far,so good. Just curious on your take on this subject.
And before commenteers start bombarding with “Why not change the hole thing?”
The simple answer is: The customer is not willing to make such investment at this time,and we are not in position to question their reasons,much less to tell them what to do for profit!
I'm curious as to what you mean exactly about the changing pressures on the txvs. You need two txvs on the system both designed for heat pump operation. The outdoor unit comes with one installed, you need to change the indoor one if it wasn't a hp before or a diff refrigerant as well. If system is charged correctly you will have the pressure differential needed at both valves to operate properly no matter what mode it's in. The txvs will do just fine as long as you followed proper installation practices
@@HVACRTECH-83 The Carrier MURA it’s an outdoor heat pump unit that comes with a variable speed compressor and sensor for temperature and pressure. The circuit boards asses and control condensing fan motor and compressor speeds based on the current operating conditions. In other words, it’s like a mini-split outdoor compatible with conventional furnace and coil or existing air handler. The point of these systems (GREE has one as well)is to work with existing line-set without insulation on the liquid line!
Very very nice sir
Thank you very much sir
Top notch as always. Ty
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend. May I ask, How about Heat Pump in Heat mode in the winter, How to check for ? is it the same or different. I love to watch your video ^_^
There is no sure way in heat mode. If it must be done in winter you can use a charging jacket, fieldpiece makes a good one but it's always best to charge by weight in the winter,get it running in heat mode then come do the full commissioning in late spring. In my area anyway, just make sure you're oa is over 70
For problem four, don't forget check your coils Dirty coils will increase your head pressure
So when you have say 2.5 ton outdoor and 3 ton indoor coil. Is there any point to knowing what the indoor coil size is?
Yes. That's what determines the airflow you need. Depending on your climate you'll need 350-450 cfm/ton
Another great video.👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Check ABC.
ABC = Airflow Before Charge.
Absolutely!
I have a trane heat pump system with EEV, I have charged the system using subcooling, and it normalized yesterday to around 10 degrees subcooling, now today, it’s been fluctuating up and down, but mainly been low, between 4-6. This is frustrating because I don’t want to keep adding more refrigerant. Backstory: last winter, the compressor went out, and I replaced it. Charged it with weight as close as I could. A few days ago, I started using the cool mode and it ran for a day and then started to cycle, I would turn the breakers off to the system and wait a couple hours and then it would run for a while. Then it started to cycle again. I tightened all the blade connectors on all the wires and it’s been running properly today except the subcooling has been fluctuating up and down. Any ideas? Thank you!
Did you flush the system, evacuate the system to rid contamination, replace the filter dryer, clean the EEV screen when you changed the compressor? Sounds like non-condensables.
Long shot here, but hoping for a reply back, but any chance you still do service calls? I'm in NJ and have yet to find a competent technician that can actually diagnose anything properly. Any tech that I have had to my house just wants to go the route of "you need a new system", and I don't feel like they really take the time to do all that is needed to diagnose the issue properly to truly confirm that a new system is needed. Especially when the one I have is only 8-9 years old. UGH, help!
We don't at this point. We only provide the education for technicians, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel damn, thank you for the reply though. I enjoy learning from your videos. Part of me wants to hand them to the techs that come out and be like here, do this, lol.
What exactly is going on and what have they diagnosed?
@@Alex_hvac Hey Alex, thanks for the reply. I have a Goodman R410A, 3 ton unit with 80k BTU 80% gas furnace.The system is about 9 years old and does blow out cool air, but not ice cold. It is a fixed orifice system, not TXV, Delta T is only a 9 degree difference when I take measurements. The condensate pump barely ever kicks on and it's been over 90+ here in NJ as of late and that pump should be constantly expelling water. The coil isn't frozen and there is water in the pan. I also tested the pump and it works properly.
I took a pic of the last tech's gauges when he was here. Wish I could post a pic here, but can't, so the best I can do is type it out. This is a Fieldpiece Digital Gauge he was using. R410A refrigerant Low Side: 161.5 PSIG 20.6 SH 57.0 VSAT////High Side: 223.4 PSIG -4.7 SC 76.2LSAT////Middle of Gauge: 75.7 ODDB 77.6 SLT 80.9LLT.
The tech tried adding 2 lbs of refrigerant with no significant change of anything on the readout. He never measured anything within the house, didn't check the orifice to see if it was cleaned, the right size, in backwards (as someone a little while back did check the orifice, but this was at a time where I didn't try to educate myself on HVAC somewhat and just let them do their thing so I didn't have any input or questions as to what they were doing).
So I'm kind of in the stages now of pricing out a brand new system since nobody can seem to figure this thing out. I'm not a professional I just watch videos on here to try and learn and help figure out what's going on. It's just annoying to keep having service techs out and nobody is giving me a definite answer as to the problem. I've made my piece with forking out the money to replace this system again already if it's truly condemned, but I would just love a confirmed answer as to what is wrong with it. Sorry for the huge book to read.
With Undersized ductwork, this issue would've been present a long time ago unless everything is new.
Dear sir IN R-22 system back pressure continuous going Downward and Discharge pressure going continuously upward what is the problem in system please help me
1. Check if the filter is Clogged
2. Check if the TXV strainer is clean
Man that’s a good camera
Problem 5 is kinda tough because it's a possibility you still wouldn't realize it's a restriction.
I guess when your liquid line temperature decreases, you'll know the refrigerant is not the problem.
TY
Thanks for watching!
❤❤❤❤🎉
👍👍
Deel knowledg
I needed this information, great video as always boss💪🏾🫡