The woman wasn't too happy, but when I told her that it was TH-cam certified and I knew what I was doin, well... she still didn't understand but that's her fault.
How's she goin'? This is a good tip Shaun. You can get pretty messed up if the proportional valve starts to compensate and you don't know it!!! Thanks for sharing. Take 'er easy!!!
What about on a system where it's front calipers and rear drums. I've watched bolth of your videos and it's definitely helped but I have no rear breaks and I've got front. I also replaced the master because it was seized and wouldn't move. Is there a chance I may have put some air in there and it caused the Portional valve to not alow the rear breaks? I also didn't bench bleed the master it was bleed on the car.
Nice information,, I have a question,, what happens when you get on your car without starting it, and pedal y hard to press down, but ones you start you vehicle the brake pedal gos to the door with no brakes, this is a 1985 corvette , what do you think it is,, if you can answer my question,,, the soonest thx,,,
Good morning…. Quick question for you. When I’m compressing the caliper i do not open the valve stem? I’m having a problem with the left brake, will not bleed . Was able to get the right front to bleed but not the left. My husband did pump the brake more than once. We only changed the front brakes . I have never had this problem before. The brakes go all the to the floor when the car is started. This white whale POS KIA Sedona is kicking my but. I do have the air compressor for bleeding . Do you recommend that for me or the one pump only? Oh and if it is the left front, after compressing both calipers would I bleed the left one first? Thank you for the update.
Hey I commented on your post where you dyno'd your mustang using hunter sniper tuning software a while back. I still never got around to getting one lol. I have a 01 Durango rear wheel abs only. I put new pads and rotors on and had some rebuilt calipers (I didn't rebuild) on the front and the rear is disc brake converted from an 03 Durango. Everything worked as it should after bleeding brakes and installing the new front parts. The problem is, an interested buyer came to test drive it the other day, he definitely got his testing out of it, and he was speeding up and hitting the brakes pretty hard. Not excessive, but real firm about 2-3 times then we turned around and he did it 3 more times. All was well until we literally was about to turn into driveway and the front left caliper locked up. I thought the rear driver brake caliper may have been an issue too, and took it off, compressed it in and it was fine. I put it back on and forgot to press the pedal down to extend it back out before removing the front driver caliper and trying to compress it. It was a little hard at first, so I thought maybe the used booster I put in had the rod adjusted to far out. I loosened the nuts for master cylinder to back it out some and see if that would help, but didn't and noticed the front brake hose had small kinks in the metal line that mounts to caliper. So I changed it out and caliper compressed much better and I had to grind the divots flat on steering knuckle where the pads slide (these don't have removable slide clips) put it all back together and bled that caliper (ik alot of mistakes and cut corners happening here but I was in the middle of completely swapping the front steering and suspension on my truck when this happened) anyways I noticed the caliper works fine until the last little bit of compressing it, it gets hard. So I buddy bled it and decided to start the car (now 2 things, I never pushed driver rear caliper out and the damn master cylinder was still loose) and now obviously I have abs light on. Brakes work fine. At least the front and the rears bled slow at first but started to get a stronger flow after a couple times bleeding. I bled all 4 calipers fine however the abs light won't go out and I'm thinking it's proportioning valve, but wanted a second opinion on what order I should go about resolving this issue. To everyone else, this is why you don't rush jobs. I've worked on alot of cars, but screwed myself on one of the biggest things I try to avoid getting into.
Questions 1) you say to listen & watch for fluid (and/or air) at the actual brake fluid RESERVOIR, right? 2) you meanwhen you compress both of the problem calipers? 3) should you compress both of the calipers totally -- what i mean is, clamp the first one closed, and leave it clamped, then clamp the other one , so they are both clamped, and dont cross-feed into one another, right? 4) then re- mount the pronlem calipers and buddy bleed uning only (1) pedal hold-down press PER "bleeder release", yes?...but you can do several of these 1 pump/release steps until flow is good, right?
1 at the bleeder 2/3 you can do this independently and if your caliper sliders are working you can do this without removing by using a screw driver or prybar to move the caliper back. 4 you can now bleed the calipers as normal, let me know how you make out 👍
@@thisguysgarage re: 1) - i thought that when compressing the caliper, you want to leave its bleeder close, so that you force the fluid back up thru the proportioning valve, and back up into the brake fluid reservoir? Seems that is you ipen the calipers bleeder, it will just come out the bleeder, and not go back thru to re-set the valve and up to the master?? Im confused i guess?
Can a defective Proportioning valve effect only one of the front wheels? I can't get much flow out of the driver front, but I get good flow out of the three other wheels.
What if your Rear Drums are the ones that are Out? How Do I Compress the Wheel Cylinder to see if Air Bubbles Escape through the master cylinder? Should the master cylinder be capped or uncapped for the procedure?
Rear drui would back off both shoe adjusters get two screw drivers and push the shoes in all the way,would help if you had someone watch the master cylinder for air or fluid with the cap off. Let me know if this helps, we can come up with another solution if not.
this guy's garage If you post a on hands visual of this you would get tons of views /comments etc… thank you for posting I’ve been chasing this gremlin for quite a while now…👍🏼
Hi there, got a question. 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Have a good flow of fluid from every tire bleeder except front left like in the video. I unloosened the connection right above the flex hose where it is attached to the frame and had good pressure but when I try to bleed from bleed screw on caliper I only have a trickle of fluid. Flex hose is brand new by the way. Any thoughts would be appreciated
The flex hose must have a blockage. Check by taking it off and blow it out. Or replace . I just had to replace a brand new one because it leaked. Just because it is new as they say👍
@@thisguysgarage Turned out to be the Caliper i just put on 3 days ago. tried the buddy bleed again tonight and cracked the banjo and had good pressure there but still nothing out of the bleeder valve. Took the caliper off and pumped the brakes a few times to get the pistons out further, clamped them for some resistance and did a 1 pump buddy bleed and then good pressure out of the bleeder valve. Got all the air out then pushed the pistons back in and clamped again and no fluid once again out the bleeder. Called Napa and they are changing it out. Install tomorrow so should be good now. As long as I dont get another bad caliper! Thanks for your input!!
@@tat2man70 is the bleeder at the top or bottom of the caliper? Sometimes they will give you the wrong caliper. If the bleeder is at the bottom its for the opposite side. Just something else to check 👍
Neither of the rear (drum) brakes on my 1997 f250 are bleeding, even with a vacuum tool. Front calipers are bleeding. Just replace the booster and MC. Any ideas?
I'm having the same problem with my 86 mustang after having a front caliper leak I decided to replace both front calipers and discs the brake fuild needed to be flushed before I installed the components craked the bleeder in the right rear and nothing...after I replaced the two wheel cylinders still nothing...I'm now looking at the combination valve...fronts bleed all day long
I am having the same issue. Replaced all brake lines, hoses, calipers and wheel cylinders. Let the system gravity bleed but I dont get any fluid in the rear (neither driver side nor passenger side). Any idea?
I have a 2013 Honda Accord that I recently installed some 4 piston Acura RL calipers up front. I went to bleed the driver side but didn't realize fluid was leaking out the banjo bolt on the passenger side until I was done. I went to tighten the banjo bolt and bled the driver side again. Went to bleed the passenger side but had some issue with fluid coming out. Bled both sides and went for a drive. Notice the passenger side caliper isn't pressing onto the rotor and bed in compared to the driver side. I bled them 2 more times and fluid came out with no bubbles. Pedal feels firms so I don't think there is air but I'm not sure why the caliper isn't working compared to the driver side which is. I will change the rear rotors and pads, bleed them and see what happens.
I will try this tomorrow. Have a 77 vette in the shop that has a leaking caliper be a bone dry reservoir for the front circuit. New calipers are not getting fluid
Hey bud Hot as heck today So ive swaped master cylinder & bled my brakes with just gravity (Cap off back caliper bleeders open & let it slow bleed (aftert i topped of the reservoir) & hour later closed bleeders & started truck & i still maintain little more travel with brake pedal than desired & today i had another caliper stick so ill be swapping the flex lines Just scratching my head about spongy pedal
I just changed the front calipers and the brake booster because the brake were just not biting as they should. So I had to remove the master cylinder. After putting everything back, I bought a pressure bleeder. After pumping the unit to 18 lbs I started to bleed at the rear right side of the car. However when I opened the bleeder screw, nothing really came out. Not the rush I was expecting. I then went to the rear right and same thing. Hardly anything came out. I then went to the front and it worked great. What’s happening?
Thanks for the video… I will have to give this a try when I get home from work. I have a 2000 ranger XLT. When I bought it the rear brakes were pinched off and there was no lines going to them. I totally replaced all the rear brake components and put in a new line. When I bled the rear brakes with the truck off they pumped fine and stopped the wheel perfectly. The pedal got stuff. When I turn on the truck the rear brakes barely work, the pedal gets squishy and I have to slam the pedal to the floor to get any kind of stoppage at all. Any thoughts? Discs in front, drums in the rear. Thanks
Never worked on a Ranger but if it has a Load Sensing Valve, it likely has its own bleed port in addition to left/right rear brake ports. You may have air trapped in LSV messing with system, or it could be way out of adjustment...are there suspension mods [like a lift kit]? Those tend to make factory adjustment work incorrectly [on a perfectly good valve] if nothing is done: system can behave like you are in a hard braking situation under normal driving if it wasn't adjusted to compensate for ride height modification - bracket modification is a common fix to restore travel..
@@thisguysgarage I have brand new brake calipers in the rear but don’t have fluid coming from the bleeder screw only have fluid from the front calipers can the proportioning valve be bad.
I have a 77 T/a and having problems trying to get the dummy light out.the valve in the proportioning valve is shifting forward and I can’t seem to keep it center.any thoughts thanks
@@darrellramsey3063 is there a possibility the calipers are on the wrong side? The calipers will fit on both sides, it just won't bleed properly and will be enough air in the system to turn on the light. Check that first and let me know 👍
@@thisguysgarage I bench bleed the master cylinder before I installed it. Would it help if I took the calipers off and squeezed them to push air back through the master cylinder and then try to bleed them?
Soo I tried your method of compressing the brake pistons on the rear brakes of my truck with the front bleeder open was that right? Or should the front bleeder have just been closed and the fluid go into master cylinder?..is it worth just taking the proptioning valve off and cleaning it if it's easy to get at..on my truck it is.
Hey Glen just to be sure, what is your year make and model and what was the initial problem why you needed to bleed the brakes. Most brakes are basically the same but there are some exceptions to the rule. I will do my best to help you out 👍
@@thisguysgarage my truck is 2003 chevy silvarusto..I blew a front brake line and replaced the caliper and a couple hard lines that went to the abs..bled the front brakes fine but no fluid from the rear bleeder valves..if I pump the pedal and open the bleeder the pedal stays firm with no air or fluid movement from the bleeder.
@@glennwilck5459 hey Glenn , it certainly sounds like your prop value but where it busted the front brakes would be the bleeding would be affected. 70% of your braking power comes from the front. If the was a previous problem in the rear it would hardly be noticeable. I would suggest try opening the line up before the rear flex hose to see if you can get it to bleed there. A rusted flex hose collar can cause this . Do you have bleeders on the master cylinder to check the master cylinder? Let me know.
I did a disc brake and power boost conversion on a 65 Mustang. My proportioning valve blocked the rear port and I was able to correct the valve (using you're method) but, when i try to bleed the rear brake the valve again blocks the rear brakes. I can't get to the master cylinder bleed or the proportioning valve. So, once I have the valve reset can I use the vac to bleed the brakes? Thanks for your videos.
🚨🚨I was trying to put new brake fluid in my 1987 Chevy g20 .(using the tube and coke bottle method ) So I started off with the left back brake opened the the nut fluid came out, pumped the brake a few times but fluid stopped coming, the old fluid never left the cylinder just the line. I’m having trouble where the light is on and no rear brakes. Would this work on my van ? I really need your help🙏🏻😔
I have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the back. I got no fluid going to my back brakes. How do I reset my proportion valve it’s a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado
Ok I am working on a Toyota vitz the problem is that the front left and the right rear brake are not getting enough pressure fluid is coming but not enough pressure
1992 Dodge Dakota replaced soft lines caliper rotors pads. Pneumatically bled the brakes. Front calipers are sticking and will not recess. I'm thinking it might be the proportion valve. How would I reset with having rear drum brakes. Do I need to reset the front or the rear?
What if the caliper that won’t bleed is already compressed? I just replaced both rear calipers on my 2003 Honda CRV and I was able to get the rear left caliper to bleed like normal but the right rear caliper would not bleed at all and since the caliper is new, the piston is still compressed.
If you are able to bleed one side I don't think it's your proportional valve. I would suggest opening the line to the flex hose see if you can get fluid there. Flex hoses are notorious for blocking fluid transfer. Let me know 👍
@@thisguysgarage Yeah I did a little process of elimination and took the flex hose out. Had my brother pump a couple of times and there was little to no brake fluid coming out.
@@mwppyro6388 cool. OK, since your caliper is new and can't be compressed. Swap the right and left then collapse. After that put them in the right position and try to bleed again. Let me know 👍
@@thisguysgarage I’ll try that when I get home. Thank you for the replies. I appreciate it. Yeah I was checking around for a leak but didn’t see any drips on the garage floor and the brake fluid level in the reservoir didn’t change at all when my brother was pump it.
I would look at the flex hose on that caliper. Or the caliper itself, but sounds like the collar of the flex hose is swelled and is trapping the brake fluid in the caliper 👍 let me know how you make out 👍
is this why my pedal is hard front brakes work but rear dont 2nd question while i am compressing in the piston on both sided in the rear do i remove the top of the resovior or keep it closed?
@@thisguysgarage when u say 1 pump is that after u compress the pistons with lid off then push pedal once all the way down let go of pedal slowly then bleed them?
The proportioning valve also acts as a cut off and goes to the side where the leak is. so whichever one was leaking you need to push the fluid back by compressing the caliper to push that proportioning valve back to center.
Hi I like both of these videos but I'm still stumped I have all new brake from front to back everything except for the ( brake pedal itself) lol is there a chance a new Proportional valve. Isn't allowing fluid to come past it i'm using a vacuum bleeder?
a new prop valve should not obstruct , with everything being new i would suggest filling the master cylinder open up all the bleeders and let the fluid come through by gravity. when you see the fluid dripping on all four corners close up the bleeders and bleed through the vacuum tool. let me know how you make out.
I have fluid in the tube with a lot of air coming through using a vacuum pump I probably emptied the jar 7 to 8 times now 🤔And still have seems like a ton of air in this front caliper I have solid pressure on all three other calipers 🤷....
did you have the calipers off by any chance? is there any possibilty the caliper is on upside down ? is the bleeder at the top or bottom of he caliper? just want to rule out all the possibilities
Bro the whole time I was told to pump the brakes 3-4 times then open the bleed port so I’m out here changing parts when the proportionate valve is compensating for my mistake of introducing air into the system 🤦♂️
The shop did all that new calipers ,pads, new proportional valve new master cylinder .new steel brake lines and as soon as I pulled out. as soon as i press the pedal the front wheels get sucked. Only by slaming several times the pedal it kind of releases. and then gets sucked again... Going crazy
Great absolutely makes the process from the previous videos much much more home mechanic friendly and these valves are cheap these valves are two and 300 bucks well this method will be the last attempt to bleed the brakes if that doesn’t work I’m going to remove the proportional valve take it apart put that piece in the center and weld it there😳 no I’m kidding!!!!
Good video. Thanks i learned something new about pumping the brakes manually. I have a problem with 1969 chevelle. Disc front/drum rear. I can firm up the back brakes fine and do them first like i should but when i move to the front, i cannot get them to firm up(fluid flows but won't hold up) and then because of moving to the front i lose the back firmness at the same time. I think proportional valve but am not sure. Any ideas?
I am riding the front seat of the struggle bus right now. I took the front calipers off of my 2007.5 Sierra 1500 to paint them. I installed them like normal. Greased pads and slide pins, compressed pistons back in, installed banjo bolt. When i go to bleed the brakes, rear drums bleed fine. No air at all. When i bled the front brakes, passenger was fine. No air. When i bled the drivers side, it kept shooting air. And lots of it. I thought it was just a problem on the drivers side, so i compressed caliper again, double checked slide pins. Noticed it seemed like the caliper was sticking. Figured it was the flex hose so i installed a new ACDelco one today. Noticed the front driver caliper seemed to be getting no fluid to the bleeder screw while trying to gravity bleed. Took flex hose off at hard line and noticed no fluid there either. Tried buddy bleeding again. Now both sides on the front are shooting air. I’m losing my mind here. I don’t know what to do. Kinda seems like it could be prop valve, kinda seems like it’s not. I don’t know.
I had a big problem bleeding my brakes on my 03 chevy astro after bleeding them many times finally realized I had the front calipers mixed up switch right to left having the bleeder on the upside of caliper solved the problem, feeling so Dumb
Thank you so much for this video really enjoyed it. However I have a Small question. On my SX4 I have the rear wheel brakes do not seem to function when the pedal is pressed. When engaged with my handle they are OK. I have to press the pedal really hard to see an effect in terms of being able to rotate them by hand. Front are OK though as seen by the disks brake pattern. I checked the pedal is firm after pressing couple of time and it seems ok SO NO AIR in the system. I also checked the slider on both sides and they seems to slide ok and the pistons seem to go in and out easily. One side is working a bit better than the other. Any idea? if this could be blocked proportional valve. On this type of car it is 2 line in coming from ABS and 2 line out going to the rear brake. Is you method would work? Thank you I really enjoyed your videos and will give it a shot.
I had the fivcking tool in to block the proportional valve it is plastic and not metal.I was not getting any fluid to the passenger rear brakes stool the line off and not begetting anything in front of the hose.It is all new brake lines from there.How the fuck can the both fronts bleed and only the rear divers side without getting anything to the passenger rear?I took that Fvcking lie valve off,took it apart cleaned it.Everything looked good even the O rings.Reassembked after resetting the coOcksvcker and vaccume bled furthest from the master cylinder according to the manufacturer.This is an 87 Jesus Chrysler Lebanon .They don’t make the valve anymore so I will have to retrofit something and I am flat broke worried about food.Thanks Brandon.And I can’t work without this car.The only thing I may have fucked up on is crossing the rear lines for the rear.But if it only cuts off the front or back why would that matter?A vacuum bleed worked initially and then stopped.Then I pumped the pedal.short slow stokes with a one man bleeder on it.I too the plastic tool off and looked at the shuttle valve and it looks centered as far as my old eyes can see.I am really stumped here.Anyone please help.I need to get back to work.
iNo to offend ..but played your video over, over, over, over n' over again many many times , & still have no idea wat your explanation was all about on recentering the shuttle valve -..how about instead of trying to explain on how ...Show Us ."The .Incompetent Ones-"-..for as they say Actions Always Speak Louder Than Words Will Ever
do you know how to colapse the caliper to install new brake pads,you do this on the caliper that wont bleed. the fluid traveling back to the master cylinder will reposition the proportional valve if that is your problem... let me know if this answers your question and thank you .
You have no idea how much you just saved my ass
awesome to hear rockwall
I once read that brake videos are one of the most viewed categories of videos on YT
i believe it , thanks Bruce!
Finally, a time where one pump is acceptable
Lmao
That’s okay in my house every day 🤷🏿♂️
The woman wasn't too happy, but when I told her that it was TH-cam certified and I knew what I was doin, well... she still didn't understand but that's her fault.
@@zeek1988 she then realized how lucky she was. I hope you gave her the other pump after she begged you for it.
How's she goin'? This is a good tip Shaun. You can get pretty messed up if the proportional valve starts to compensate and you don't know it!!! Thanks for sharing. Take 'er easy!!!
Great point! ty mike
What about on a system where it's front calipers and rear drums. I've watched bolth of your videos and it's definitely helped but I have no rear breaks and I've got front. I also replaced the master because it was seized and wouldn't move. Is there a chance I may have put some air in there and it caused the Portional valve to not alow the rear breaks? I also didn't bench bleed the master it was bleed on the car.
Same issue here, MC, Booster, New Caliper in front new rear shoes as well as rear wheel cylinders.
Hello and thanks for your videos . Does this method work for my older truck 77 chevy c30 front disc rear drums? Thanks.
Nice information,, I have a question,, what happens when you get on your car without starting it, and pedal y hard to press down, but ones you start you vehicle the brake pedal gos to the door with no brakes, this is a 1985 corvette , what do you think it is,, if you can answer my question,,, the soonest thx,,,
That was very useful and informative. Wish I had know that dozen of brakes ago!
thank you my friend
Good morning…. Quick question for you. When I’m compressing the caliper i do not open the valve stem? I’m having a problem with the left brake, will not bleed . Was able to get the right front to bleed but not the left. My husband did pump the brake more than once. We only changed the front brakes . I have never had this problem before. The brakes go all the to the floor when the car is started. This white whale POS KIA Sedona is kicking my but. I do have the air compressor for bleeding . Do you recommend that for me or the one pump only? Oh and if it is the left front, after compressing both calipers would I bleed the left one first? Thank you for the update.
Should have said questions:)
Im going to try this tomorrow> i had my wife help bleed the brakes , and she was pushing the brake to the floor while pumping.
What if its the rear brake drums? Can I still reverse flow by utilizing the auto vac bleeding the front caliper as per the 1st Vid? Thank you.
Thanks a bunch, I will give it a shot
Hey I commented on your post where you dyno'd your mustang using hunter sniper tuning software a while back. I still never got around to getting one lol. I have a 01 Durango rear wheel abs only. I put new pads and rotors on and had some rebuilt calipers (I didn't rebuild) on the front and the rear is disc brake converted from an 03 Durango. Everything worked as it should after bleeding brakes and installing the new front parts. The problem is, an interested buyer came to test drive it the other day, he definitely got his testing out of it, and he was speeding up and hitting the brakes pretty hard. Not excessive, but real firm about 2-3 times then we turned around and he did it 3 more times. All was well until we literally was about to turn into driveway and the front left caliper locked up. I thought the rear driver brake caliper may have been an issue too, and took it off, compressed it in and it was fine. I put it back on and forgot to press the pedal down to extend it back out before removing the front driver caliper and trying to compress it. It was a little hard at first, so I thought maybe the used booster I put in had the rod adjusted to far out. I loosened the nuts for master cylinder to back it out some and see if that would help, but didn't and noticed the front brake hose had small kinks in the metal line that mounts to caliper. So I changed it out and caliper compressed much better and I had to grind the divots flat on steering knuckle where the pads slide (these don't have removable slide clips) put it all back together and bled that caliper (ik alot of mistakes and cut corners happening here but I was in the middle of completely swapping the front steering and suspension on my truck when this happened) anyways I noticed the caliper works fine until the last little bit of compressing it, it gets hard. So I buddy bled it and decided to start the car (now 2 things, I never pushed driver rear caliper out and the damn master cylinder was still loose) and now obviously I have abs light on. Brakes work fine. At least the front and the rears bled slow at first but started to get a stronger flow after a couple times bleeding. I bled all 4 calipers fine however the abs light won't go out and I'm thinking it's proportioning valve, but wanted a second opinion on what order I should go about resolving this issue. To everyone else, this is why you don't rush jobs. I've worked on alot of cars, but screwed myself on one of the biggest things I try to avoid getting into.
Questions 1) you say to listen & watch for fluid (and/or air) at the actual brake fluid RESERVOIR, right? 2) you meanwhen you compress both of the problem calipers? 3) should you compress both of the calipers totally -- what i mean is, clamp the first one closed, and leave it clamped, then clamp the other one , so they are both clamped, and dont cross-feed into one another, right? 4) then re- mount the pronlem calipers and buddy bleed uning only (1) pedal hold-down press PER "bleeder release", yes?...but you can do several of these 1 pump/release steps until flow is good, right?
1 at the bleeder
2/3 you can do this independently and if your caliper sliders are working you can do this without removing by using a screw driver or prybar to move the caliper back.
4 you can now bleed the calipers as normal, let me know how you make out 👍
@@thisguysgarage re: 1) - i thought that when compressing the caliper, you want to leave its bleeder close, so that you force the fluid back up thru the proportioning valve, and back up into the brake fluid reservoir? Seems that is you ipen the calipers bleeder, it will just come out the bleeder, and not go back thru to re-set the valve and up to the master?? Im confused i guess?
@jmm1000 yes keep the bleeder closed and yes you should hear the fluid go back to the master cylinder 👍💯✅️
Can a defective Proportioning valve effect only one of the front wheels? I can't get much flow out of the driver front, but I get good flow out of the three other wheels.
What if your Rear Drums are the ones that are Out? How Do I Compress the Wheel Cylinder to see if Air Bubbles Escape through the master cylinder? Should the master cylinder be capped or uncapped for the procedure?
Rear drui would back off both shoe adjusters get two screw drivers and push the shoes in all the way,would help if you had someone watch the master cylinder for air or fluid with the cap off. Let me know if this helps, we can come up with another solution if not.
this guy's garage If you post a on hands visual of this you would get tons of views /comments etc… thank you for posting I’ve been chasing this gremlin for quite a while now…👍🏼
I need this as well. Same issue.
Hi there, got a question. 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Have a good flow of fluid from every tire bleeder except front left like in the video. I unloosened the connection right above the flex hose where it is attached to the frame and had good pressure but when I try to bleed from bleed screw on caliper I only have a trickle of fluid. Flex hose is brand new by the way. Any thoughts would be appreciated
The flex hose must have a blockage. Check by taking it off and blow it out. Or replace . I just had to replace a brand new one because it leaked. Just because it is new as they say👍
@@thisguysgarage I will try that and let ya know. Thank you!
@@tat2man70 please do . We will figure it out
@@thisguysgarage Turned out to be the Caliper i just put on 3 days ago. tried the buddy bleed again tonight and cracked the banjo and had good pressure there but still nothing out of the bleeder valve. Took the caliper off and pumped the brakes a few times to get the pistons out further, clamped them for some resistance and did a 1 pump buddy bleed and then good pressure out of the bleeder valve. Got all the air out then pushed the pistons back in and clamped again and no fluid once again out the bleeder. Called Napa and they are changing it out. Install tomorrow so should be good now. As long as I dont get another bad caliper! Thanks for your input!!
@@tat2man70 is the bleeder at the top or bottom of the caliper? Sometimes they will give you the wrong caliper. If the bleeder is at the bottom its for the opposite side. Just something else to check 👍
Neither of the rear (drum) brakes on my 1997 f250 are bleeding, even with a vacuum tool. Front calipers are bleeding. Just replace the booster and MC. Any ideas?
I'm having the same problem with my 86 mustang after having a front caliper leak I decided to replace both front calipers and discs the brake fuild needed to be flushed before I installed the components craked the bleeder in the right rear and nothing...after I replaced the two wheel cylinders still nothing...I'm now looking at the combination valve...fronts bleed all day long
I am having the same issue. Replaced all brake lines, hoses, calipers and wheel cylinders. Let the system gravity bleed but I dont get any fluid in the rear (neither driver side nor passenger side). Any idea?
I have a 2013 Honda Accord that I recently installed some 4 piston Acura RL calipers up front. I went to bleed the driver side but didn't realize fluid was leaking out the banjo bolt on the passenger side until I was done. I went to tighten the banjo bolt and bled the driver side again. Went to bleed the passenger side but had some issue with fluid coming out. Bled both sides and went for a drive. Notice the passenger side caliper isn't pressing onto the rotor and bed in compared to the driver side. I bled them 2 more times and fluid came out with no bubbles. Pedal feels firms so I don't think there is air but I'm not sure why the caliper isn't working compared to the driver side which is. I will change the rear rotors and pads, bleed them and see what happens.
I will try this tomorrow. Have a 77 vette in the shop that has a leaking caliper be a bone dry reservoir for the front circuit. New calipers are not getting fluid
Perfect timing ! I was just about to start
Awesome let me know how you make out brick Mafia
Hey bud
Hot as heck today
So ive swaped master cylinder & bled my brakes with just gravity
(Cap off back caliper bleeders open & let it slow bleed (aftert i topped of the reservoir)
& hour later closed bleeders & started truck
& i still maintain little more travel with brake pedal than desired
& today i had another caliper stick so ill be swapping the flex lines
Just scratching my head about spongy pedal
@@thisguysgarageso, before you pump 1 time, do you reinstall you caliper and brakes? Or pump one time with an empty caliper out in the air?
@dougfleming2099 it has to be reinstalled before you bleed , if it's not installed it will blow the caliper piston. Great question
I just changed the front calipers and the brake booster because the brake were just not biting as they should. So I had to remove the master cylinder. After putting everything back, I bought a pressure bleeder. After pumping the unit to 18 lbs I started to bleed at the rear right side of the car. However when I opened the bleeder screw, nothing really came out. Not the rush I was expecting. I then went to the rear right and same thing. Hardly anything came out. I then went to the front and it worked great. What’s happening?
Thanks for the video… I will have to give this a try when I get home from work. I have a 2000 ranger XLT. When I bought it the rear brakes were pinched off and there was no lines going to them. I totally replaced all the rear brake components and put in a new line. When I bled the rear brakes with the truck off they pumped fine and stopped the wheel perfectly. The pedal got stuff. When I turn on the truck the rear brakes barely work, the pedal gets squishy and I have to slam the pedal to the floor to get any kind of stoppage at all. Any thoughts? Discs in front, drums in the rear.
Thanks
Never worked on a Ranger but if it has a Load Sensing Valve, it likely has its own bleed port in addition to left/right rear brake ports. You may have air trapped in LSV messing with system, or it could be way out of adjustment...are there suspension mods [like a lift kit]? Those tend to make factory adjustment work incorrectly [on a perfectly good valve] if nothing is done: system can behave like you are in a hard braking situation under normal driving if it wasn't adjusted to compensate for ride height modification - bracket modification is a common fix to restore travel..
Iv put new master cylinder on Iv try bleeding breaks can’t seen to get hard pedal if pump brakes 4/5 times the cars slow down any ideas
can i get the year make and model ,will give me a better idea and why you had to change the master . will do what i can to help you friend.
It’s 2002 vw golf I was told by garage my old master cylinder was knackered . I all charge my Front hard brake lines witch go to abs module
Does a 1999 Honda Accord four-cylinder with abs have a proportioning valve ?
Yes 👍
@@thisguysgarage I have brand new brake calipers in the rear but don’t have fluid coming from the bleeder screw only have fluid from the front calipers can the proportioning valve be bad.
I can't get my left front and right rear to bleed . It had a load new parts including master cylinder. So I will try this . Thanks
EXCELLENT. On. The. Most. IMPORTANT
SAFETY. Thing. On. A. VEHICLE 🚗.
thank you john
Perfect explanation. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a 77 T/a and having problems trying to get the dummy light out.the valve in the proportioning valve is shifting forward and I can’t seem to keep it center.any thoughts thanks
Any recent brake work?
@@thisguysgarage I restored the car the whole system is new
@@darrellramsey3063 is there a possibility the calipers are on the wrong side? The calipers will fit on both sides, it just won't bleed properly and will be enough air in the system to turn on the light. Check that first and let me know 👍
@@thisguysgarage no both bleeders are facing up
@@thisguysgarage I bench bleed the master cylinder before I installed it. Would it help if I took the calipers off and squeezed them to push air back through the master cylinder and then try to bleed them?
DONT EVER TAKE THIS VIDEO DOWN!!!!!!! I haven't cursed so much in my life. 🤬
Soo I tried your method of compressing the brake pistons on the rear brakes of my truck with the front bleeder open was that right? Or should the front bleeder have just been closed and the fluid go into master cylinder?..is it worth just taking the proptioning valve off and cleaning it if it's easy to get at..on my truck it is.
Hey Glen just to be sure, what is your year make and model and what was the initial problem why you needed to bleed the brakes. Most brakes are basically the same but there are some exceptions to the rule. I will do my best to help you out 👍
@@thisguysgarage my truck is 2003 chevy silvarusto..I blew a front brake line and replaced the caliper and a couple hard lines that went to the abs..bled the front brakes fine but no fluid from the rear bleeder valves..if I pump the pedal and open the bleeder the pedal stays firm with no air or fluid movement from the bleeder.
Any input would be 👍
@@glennwilck5459 hey Glenn , it certainly sounds like your prop value but where it busted the front brakes would be the bleeding would be affected. 70% of your braking power comes from the front. If the was a previous problem in the rear it would hardly be noticeable. I would suggest try opening the line up before the rear flex hose to see if you can get it to bleed there. A rusted flex hose collar can cause this . Do you have bleeders on the master cylinder to check the master cylinder? Let me know.
I did a disc brake and power boost conversion on a 65 Mustang. My proportioning valve blocked the rear port and I was able to correct the valve (using you're method) but, when i try to bleed the rear brake the valve again blocks the rear brakes. I can't get to the master cylinder bleed or the proportioning valve. So, once I have the valve reset can I use the vac to bleed the brakes? Thanks for your videos.
Find a solution?
@@elijahjohnson7447u have to use the bleeder screw tool so it won’t trip the valve ..
u have to use the bleeder screw tool so it won’t trip the valve ..
🚨🚨I was trying to put new brake fluid in my 1987 Chevy g20 .(using the tube and coke bottle method ) So I started off with the left back brake opened the the nut fluid came out, pumped the brake a few times but fluid stopped coming, the old fluid never left the cylinder just the line. I’m having trouble where the light is on and no rear brakes. Would this work on my van ? I really need your help🙏🏻😔
I have disc brakes on the front and drum brakes on the back. I got no fluid going to my back brakes. How do I reset my proportion valve it’s a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado
Ok I am working on a Toyota vitz the problem is that the front left and the right rear brake are not getting enough pressure fluid is coming but not enough pressure
1992 Dodge Dakota replaced soft lines caliper rotors pads. Pneumatically bled the brakes. Front calipers are sticking and will not recess. I'm thinking it might be the proportion valve. How would I reset with having rear drum brakes. Do I need to reset the front or the rear?
if you were able to bleed the brakes pneumatically and have a clear stream of fluid ,check your flex hose they can make the caliper stick too.
@@thisguysgarage A rubber flex line can go bad and act like a one way valve, fluid goes to the caliper and locks it up. I've seen this twice.
What if the caliper that won’t bleed is already compressed? I just replaced both rear calipers on my 2003 Honda CRV and I was able to get the rear left caliper to bleed like normal but the right rear caliper would not bleed at all and since the caliper is new, the piston is still compressed.
If you are able to bleed one side I don't think it's your proportional valve. I would suggest opening the line to the flex hose see if you can get fluid there. Flex hoses are notorious for blocking fluid transfer. Let me know 👍
@@thisguysgarage Yeah I did a little process of elimination and took the flex hose out. Had my brother pump a couple of times and there was little to no brake fluid coming out.
@@mwppyro6388 cool. OK, since your caliper is new and can't be compressed. Swap the right and left then collapse. After that put them in the right position and try to bleed again. Let me know 👍
@@mwppyro6388 I don't suspect a leak ,you would definitely see it.
@@thisguysgarage I’ll try that when I get home. Thank you for the replies. I appreciate it. Yeah I was checking around for a leak but didn’t see any drips on the garage floor and the brake fluid level in the reservoir didn’t change at all when my brother was pump it.
I found this video for the OPPOSITE reason: The caliper gets pressure but won't retract. Is it possible that a prop valve can prevent reverse flow?
I would look at the flex hose on that caliper. Or the caliper itself, but sounds like the collar of the flex hose is swelled and is trapping the brake fluid in the caliper 👍 let me know how you make out 👍
is this why my pedal is hard front brakes work but rear dont 2nd question while i am compressing in the piston on both sided in the rear do i remove the top of the resovior or keep it closed?
oh while trying to bleed the rear very little comes out i did replace the hoses
Take the cap off to be on the safe side but if fluid has not been added it does not matter. Ty master A
@@thisguysgarage when u say 1 pump is that after u compress the pistons with lid off then push pedal once all the way down let go of pedal slowly then bleed them?
@@mastera6999 yes after you put the caliper back on👍
@@thisguysgarage ok i got more brake but pedal still a little hard u think i still have air in the lines?
The proportioning valve also acts as a cut off and goes to the side where the leak is. so whichever one was leaking you need to push the fluid back by compressing the caliper to push that proportioning valve back to center.
Hi I like both of these videos but I'm still stumped I have all new brake from front to back everything except for the ( brake pedal itself) lol is there a chance a new Proportional valve. Isn't allowing fluid to come past it i'm using a vacuum bleeder?
a new prop valve should not obstruct , with everything being new i would suggest filling the master cylinder open up all the bleeders and let the fluid come through by gravity. when you see the fluid dripping on all four corners close up the bleeders and bleed through the vacuum tool. let me know how you make out.
Great info here shaun!
thanks so much buddy!
Great, very interesting, I'm learning something👍
Awesome, thank you! appreciated Dom
I have fluid in the tube with a lot of air coming through using a vacuum pump I probably emptied the jar 7 to 8 times now 🤔And still have seems like a ton of air in this front caliper I have solid pressure on all three other calipers 🤷....
did you have the calipers off by any chance? is there any possibilty the caliper is on upside down ? is the bleeder at the top or bottom of he caliper? just want to rule out all the possibilities
Thank you for making this
Bro the whole time I was told to pump the brakes 3-4 times then open the bleed port so I’m out here changing parts when the proportionate valve is compensating for my mistake of introducing air into the system 🤦♂️
Thank you. You rock...
You too!
Love your videos!
The shop did all that new calipers ,pads, new proportional valve new master cylinder .new steel brake lines and as soon as I pulled out. as soon as i press the pedal the front wheels get sucked. Only by slaming several times the pedal it kind of releases. and then gets sucked again... Going crazy
What if you have drum rear brakes
Collapse the wheel cylinders
Great absolutely makes the process from the previous videos much much more home mechanic friendly and these valves are cheap these valves are two and 300 bucks well this method will be the last attempt to bleed the brakes if that doesn’t work I’m going to remove the proportional valve take it apart put that piece in the center and weld it there😳
no I’m kidding!!!!
thanks so much pete, let me know how you make out!
Mines front brakes have fluid to the passenger side none to the drives side
Replace the flesh hose on the side that has no fluid. You can bleed at the flex hose to confirm 👍
great advice thanks
You bet!
thank you soooooo
🤜🤛👍
Well this answers my question. Thanks
Good video. Thanks i learned something new about pumping the brakes manually. I have a problem with 1969 chevelle. Disc front/drum rear. I can firm up the back brakes fine and do them first like i should but when i move to the front, i cannot get them to firm up(fluid flows but won't hold up) and then because of moving to the front i lose the back firmness at the same time. I think proportional valve but am not sure. Any ideas?
I am riding the front seat of the struggle bus right now. I took the front calipers off of my 2007.5 Sierra 1500 to paint them. I installed them like normal. Greased pads and slide pins, compressed pistons back in, installed banjo bolt. When i go to bleed the brakes, rear drums bleed fine. No air at all. When i bled the front brakes, passenger was fine. No air. When i bled the drivers side, it kept shooting air. And lots of it. I thought it was just a problem on the drivers side, so i compressed caliper again, double checked slide pins. Noticed it seemed like the caliper was sticking. Figured it was the flex hose so i installed a new ACDelco one today. Noticed the front driver caliper seemed to be getting no fluid to the bleeder screw while trying to gravity bleed. Took flex hose off at hard line and noticed no fluid there either. Tried buddy bleeding again. Now both sides on the front are shooting air. I’m losing my mind here. I don’t know what to do. Kinda seems like it could be prop valve, kinda seems like it’s not. I don’t know.
I bled them with the motor on and got everything out. Weird.
Did what you said and best way to get it thx
I had a big problem bleeding my brakes on my 03 chevy astro after bleeding them many times finally realized I had the front calipers mixed up switch right to left having the bleeder on the upside of caliper solved the problem, feeling so Dumb
🤜🤛 I seen that happen a lot. You won't be the last 🤜🤛👍
Thank you so much for this video really enjoyed it. However I have a Small question. On my SX4 I have the rear wheel brakes do not seem to function when the pedal is pressed. When engaged with my handle they are OK. I have to press the pedal really hard to see an effect in terms of being able to rotate them by hand. Front are OK though as seen by the disks brake pattern. I checked the pedal is firm after pressing couple of time and it seems ok SO NO AIR in the system. I also checked the slider on both sides and they seems to slide ok and the pistons seem to go in and out easily. One side is working a bit better than the other. Any idea? if this could be blocked proportional valve. On this type of car it is 2 line in coming from ABS and 2 line out going to the rear brake. Is you method would work? Thank you I really enjoyed your videos and will give it a shot.
Are the rear calipers or wheel cylinders?
Have you checked your flex hoses?
@@thisguysgarage disk. will check the but doubt it is the issue as this will make the caliper stick. issue seems to be present on both sde
@@samerawaragi3041 rear drum or disk brakes?
@@thisguysgarage rear disks and rear calipers
You were right replacing hose and one pump only fixed the issue thanks
How can I send you a video 🤷?....
post it to youtube and send me the link would probably be the easiest
Great
ty nm101
Love u!
1 pump only
Whoops...i was shown 3 & bleed 3 & bleed 30 years ago...lol
Just call me
Mr. Hamfist
thatll most likey make a big difference
Thank s again
I nearly through a hunt for red October reference in there lol 1 ping only
Thx one 1 PUMP ONLY SMH. THXS
More than one pump you are just making more tiny air bubbles.
I usually let him pump till it squirts, so only 1 pump got ya
😂
I had the fivcking tool in to block the proportional valve it is plastic and not metal.I was not getting any fluid to the passenger rear brakes stool the line off and not begetting anything in front of the hose.It is all new brake lines from there.How the fuck can the both fronts bleed and only the rear divers side without getting anything to the passenger rear?I took that Fvcking lie valve off,took it apart cleaned it.Everything looked good even the O rings.Reassembked after resetting the coOcksvcker and vaccume bled furthest from the master cylinder according to the manufacturer.This is an 87 Jesus Chrysler Lebanon .They don’t make the valve anymore so I will have to retrofit something and I am flat broke worried about food.Thanks Brandon.And I can’t work without this car.The only thing I may have fucked up on is crossing the rear lines for the rear.But if it only cuts off the front or back why would that matter?A vacuum bleed worked initially and then stopped.Then I pumped the pedal.short slow stokes with a one man bleeder on it.I too the plastic tool off and looked at the shuttle valve and it looks centered as far as my old eyes can see.I am really stumped here.Anyone please help.I need to get back to work.
احسنت
he is the oldest young person ive ever seen! or is it the youngest old person??? regardless thank you for the vid
air never goes back into your master cylinder from your calipers.
I’m just gonna invest in a generator and a compressor
iNo to offend ..but played your video over, over, over, over n' over again many many times , & still have no idea wat your explanation was all about on recentering the shuttle valve -..how about instead of trying to explain on how ...Show Us ."The .Incompetent Ones-"-..for as they say Actions Always Speak Louder Than Words Will Ever
do you know how to colapse the caliper to install new brake pads,you do this on the caliper that wont bleed. the fluid traveling back to the master cylinder will reposition the proportional valve if that is your problem... let me know if this answers your question and thank you .
Ye ha!
One ping only please
Well why didn't you say so in the first place? lol
Wouldn't it be great if your autobody videos had the most views, instead of brake bleeding? lol
either way im not complaining lol ,but it would be nice.
also i had all new calipers and they were already compressed lol
Very informative great instructional vid thanks