geesus finely someone who acually understands whats going on . some times if it sits over nite it fixes its self but seldom .you can get some peddle and are able to bleed .thanks guy.
THANK YOU! 1999 Dodge Durango went to five (5) ASE mechanics for horrible brakes, new master cylinder (twice), new rotors, new shoes, babied...bad brakes. Then SUDDENLY, bad went to worse as the front brakes were almost lost the ABS system went nuts. Your "last resort" was done. Fed up with mechanics I researched and came to your sight by accident. It made sense. Opened the front and rear bleeders and brake fluid gushed out the front, hit it with air at the back, bleed the system and viola! For the FIRST TIME in 22 years I have great brakes. THANK YOU. I kid you not, 5 mechanics didn't find that problem. ???? ...and I spent some money over that time.
This is the current situation I’m in rite now I have spent 1000 dollars on new stuff and yet still no brakes 😢 4 different so called mechanic couldn’t figure this out !! Can’t wait to get off to try this !!
this is the mentality that if your battery goes dead buy a new battery; you are correcting the symptoms and not addressing the cause(s), ie alternator, bad ground, parasitic draw etc..
I really appreciate the tips in this video as I just finished rear brake lines on a 1999 lexus es 300 and the proportioning valve was stuck badky only giving fluid to the fronts. I didnt have a bleeder in my master cylinder and the 2nd tip for unsticking it didnt work so I had to do the hail mary approach and it fixed the issue immediately! No sooner than I shot two puffs of an airgun into the rear bleeder that fluid started rushing out. Bled all 4 using the air compressor tool you refer to and lastly two person bleeding and Im back on the road. Thank you for making these types of videos!
My buddy bleed system is using one of my 4” decorative yard blocks that you can buy at Lowes. These blocks are heavy enough that once you have pumped your pedal and are in the hold position, you wedge that block against your pedal and it will hold it. Then go crack your bleeder and then close it like normal. Once again go to the drivers seat and move the block. Pump, pump, pump and hold. Wedge your block and make sure it holds. Go crack your bleeder at your wheel and close it back. Follow your manufacture’s pattern of which wheel is bled first. 2nd, 3rd and finally 4th. This method doesn’t require you to depend on whether or not someone can hear you and you know that the person didn’t release the pedal before you close the bleeder at the wheel. It works like a champ.
Thank you!! I had a leaky master cyl on my 1980 firebird. After bench bleeding the new one and installing it, couldn't get the rear brakes to bleed. Very little fluid coming out. The brake light was on dash, indicating the prop valve triggered. I tried various brake pedal and cracking tips to recenter. No luck. Then i found your vid. I dont have vac bleeder so i went to the air gun method. That blew the prop valve the other extreme. Light was still on, but i could bleed rears no prob. When i moved to front, they bled no prob and the valve recentered and light went off. All good. Thank you from Hamilton.
the hail marry method,,, BOOM. been a while since i have been to Hamilton. I'm from Cape Breton Nova Scotia. i really appreciate you taking the time my friend, YOU ROCK😉
Thank you for this Video... After watching this I went straight for the Hell Mary option, and Wahla it worked!!!! I didn't try anything else you demonstrated, im just glad the Hell Mary version worked... I have solid brakes!!!!!
Dang this might have helped me out the other day. Had to put a master cylinder in a chevy silverado with abs, and I've never had so much trouble bleeding brakes before. I bled the brakes and the ABS pump about 5 times with my scan tool. I finally broke down and bought about a 300 dollar pressure bleeder, which I must say did get the job done.
Thank you for the vid. In my 94 silverado , the proportional valve was tripped , but to the rear of the valve and the manual reset only resets if it trips to the front of the valve. Had to take off line to front brakes and do a quick pump, and that tripped it the other way and then I was able to use the manual reset to center it a again. Now back to figuring out why I have air continuously coming out of left rear.
You are the man. After looking at dozens of lame video that really had nothing to do with the issue I got on to yours and you succinctly intelligently laid it out exactly how it is and for that I appreciate it great stuff.
Great information, Thank you, Mr Guy, boy never had problems with changing out caliper and I ran into a problems, your information helps to understand now never knew this thank you again
wow I never thought about the air method. My 88 Lincoln Town Car has a stuck proportional and I cant find the part anywhere. Im going to try and force some air through. I will let you know. Thanks for the great information.
Excellent information.What i did was the same but i put a container on the rear brake bleed valve and filled it with fluid. When i sucked the fluid out the master cylinder it automatically filled the brake lines with fresh fluid.
HEY, I have the same bleeder!! You are 100% right about not solely depending on that bleeder, because I don't either! Sometimes its just not as good as the always perfect buddy system. I'm digging the HAIL MARY method, LOL! Great instructions Shaun!
THIS. GUYS. GARAGE. Very WELL. EXPLAIN ED. VIDOO. On. A SUBJECT. I. KNEW. MOTHING. ABOUT. BEFORE. Watching. Your. Video. PS. THE. CHARTS. Y0U. USED. Too. We’re. A. GOOD. HELP.
Thanks for the video. I'm helping my son on his 1988 Honda Accord and I could not figure it out why I can't bleed the front brakes? I think I know now.
Thank you for this video my man! I had my bavk against the wall. Bought the wrong Valve and was trying to find a solution. Found this video 🤟🏼 time to see what works
Yikes I hope I don’t run in to this issue as I swap out all my brakelines, hopefully the prop valve will not move during the process and I will gravity fluid through the system as I change them, gonna do the rear first and then the front. I am grateful to be armed with this insight now so I won’t be shocked if it happens, thanks for posting this
@@thisguysgarage I had no issues bleeding that one out, the brakes had not yet failed so the lines only emptied when I removed the lines. I did end up with an abs light, but have since learned that I need to energize the abs valve while I bleed it - hasn’t been an issue I have driven it that way ever since the brakes work great. I am now about to do the lines on my other truck as they are badly corroded and I will have an issue soon if I don’t change them. Oh ya I always use my morive power bleeder that connects to the master cyl and it makes bleeding a breeze, well worth the few dollars it costed.
Nice video! Wish I could say my new truck was working out. Smh. First back up camera replacement now the dash with 3k on it is warping...Local dealer really not working hard... ugh. Miss my Tundra more and more now. 😞
I bought an 01 tundra about Sept 1st.I loved it.Two weeks later was 911.Working for a major airline low pay because I was relatively new I eventually sold it because of fuel price fears.It was a perfect size and that was a major complaint so they are huge now.But the 5.7 really moves with a good job I bought a new vehicle every 2-3 years didn't make sense to buy a super reliable one to keep trading.Now retired I have a Yukon 254,000 miles but it keeps going with many broken parts and rated at 16 MPG hwy I get 18 it's 4wd.A little better than my 2wd tundra but I miss the Toyota.
Can a bad proportioning valve cause rear brakes to stay seized? I've changed brakes, calipers, flex line, abs modulator, but the brakes keep staying seized. I can push them open with a screw driver. Any help with be appreciated, at wits end 😔
Hi I have a vacuum bleeder...and I learned the hard way that vacuum bleeding the rear brakes of my 2001 dodge ram cargo van causes the brake switch to go offcenter and the brake switch lite comes on ....is there a way to vacuum bleed the rear brakes without the brake switch lite coming on or do I just avoid vacuum bleeding the rear brakes?
Could the proportioning valve be partially off? I get the fluid to bleed at the front brakes and rear driver side, but cannot get the rear passenger side to bleed. 2007 Toyota Corolla.
Check your rear flex hose on that side that won't bleed, they swell up and won't let fluid through, they also can trap fluid in the caliper and can cause the brake to stay applied. To check Crack the line going into the flex hose see if you are getting fluid there. Let me know how you make out 👍
I'm not sure if this is the same issue, but I get fluid to the rear. Caliper pistons are twist in, and as im bleeding them master cylinder drains down (not completely) as usual. As i pump brake pedal it begins to stiffen up but rear pistons never fully compress the pads. If you watch them they move in and out ever so slightly along with the brake pedal.
I had to replace a rear caliper on a 2004 Escalade with ABS. The two rear wheels are bleeding but I am not getting any fluid from the front wheels. I've collapsed the pistons and also tried a vacuum pump and still nothing comes out the front. I want to try the hail mary. So, do I blast air into the front or real caliper nozzle? Also, do I have to leave the other nozzles open?
How's she goin'? That's an interesting procedure. I like that you gave a couple of different options to try before you would take the big plunge and change the proportional valve!!! Thanks for sharing and take care!!
Can you tell me why I have an older brass proportional brake valve with a pin sized hole on the side and I got brake fluid spitting out of that little hole I tried plugging it up and that didn't work with JB weld. I go to order a new one and the newer brass valve doesn't even have a hole on the side. I know it's leaking pass the o-rings and leaking out this little pin sized hole. Do I have just an older brass unit and what was the purpose of this little hole on the side of the unit?
Trying to bleed a 1991 Chevy obs and my front lines there’s no air and didn’t take long to bleed , my rear brakes I’m getting lots of air and been trying to bleed for hours , what could I try next ?
Good afternoon sir , i have problem with after replaced master cylinder & my driver front side able to manual bleed fluid come out well , but other 3 wont manual bleed but its does only when i use scanner abs bleed . please help im appreciate Sir
Studying for brakes ASE test and I've never had anything to do with a combination. Your video was very helpful for understanding how it works. Thanks, you just got a like and subscribe from me.
Everything you explained in the beginning is my exact problem. So I had a break in the system (rear drum brake wheel cylinders were busted) so the front bleed and rear won’t bleed. I have access to the p-valve. So I can suck from the front brake bleeder bolt while I have one rear bleeder open correct? How much fluid or how long do I draw fluid back from the front caliper? Also do I leave the master cylinder cap on or off. After all that do I close the front bleeder and draw from the rear after everything is closed? Thanks man hope I can fix this truck lol
Well done. Have you ever tried speed bleeders? First thing I do when bleeding brakes is to add them. Makes it a one man job. No ones ever around when I need to bleed them.
Hi, I converted my front brakes to disc and installed new front brake lines a rear middle brake line and a new power brake booster and Mc as well as a new combination valve.. I unfortunately didn't block off the pressure differential valve when I bless the brake... So now my brake are still soft after bleeding and the light is on. I took the combination switch offand it looks like the valve got triggered.. One question: How does one re-center the pressure differential valve as it got triggered while bleeding my brakes and I didn't know about the block off plug? 🤔
In my opinion now that you have converted to a front disk brake setup you will be better to purchase an adjustable proportional valve , they are pretty cheap through summit or iegs
I just did a front disc conversion on a car that had drums on all 4 corners. I had to run new lines for the front. When I went to bleed the system I had a bad leak on one of my new lines. I had a bad flare and had to redo the line. I no longer have a leak, but I'm now having trouble bleeding the front. I'm guessing it's the proportioning valve.
did you install a proportional valve for front disk brakes? master cylinder changed for for disk brakes? if yes try compressing your front calipers like your putting new pads on and try bleeding again.
@@thisguysgarage Correct. New master cylinder, and a disc/drum proportioning valve. I did not remove the warning circuit and lock the valve in place when bleeding though.
@@RYTHMICRIOT I don't think the circuit warning would effect bleeding. Is it possible the rear line is feeding the front? There would be much less fluid for a wheel cylinder then a caliper?
I have a 89 suburban. I recently replace the master cylinder and both front caliperss. I couldnt get fluid to do more then trickle out of the rear. So i ended up replacing the the porplrtioning valve. Still nothing. I can bleed the fronts but nothing in the rear and still no pedal.
Great tip thanks I've had this happen a few times over the years if it ever happens again I will definitely try this. And best of luck to everyone that is racing this weekend at Cape Breton hope you all stay safe. There will be no racing here at my home track Greenfield at all this season which really sucks but it is what it is. With only 250 people allowed on the property I'm guessing you won't be there doing any videos
if my wife wasn't working i would have entered the cougar to get some footage but thems the brakes lol,ty for stopping by appreciate it. when things get back to normal hope to see you at your track or ours. appreciate you taking the time!
Great video, thanks My question is when flushing the brake fluid from my friends car I cannot get fluid to come out of any of the 4 wheels, if it was only one wheel that wasn’t bleeding I know that it would be likely a bad caliper but on all four wheels, could it be the abs unit that giving problems or master brake cyclinder. Thanks
Dang best explanation I've seen anywhere!! Thank you brother! My 97 lt1 has only fronts working and pedal hard as hell. This happened after a rear caliper leak. 2 shops wanted to change the master and booster.
@@PeterrDoucetteyes it worked. Open the rear and suck it open just like he did. You can see it working if you unscrew the sensor on top. You'll see when it's back in center
I'm just going to bleed the brakes again. I'm sure that my daughter & her husband probably took turns pressing on the brake pedal after she said the brakes weren't working. We already replaced the bad lines going to the rear of the car, now it's just bleeding the system correctly. Plus the front calipers were replaced as well sooooo it's gonna require that much more bleeding anyways.....
Im going to try this tomorrow! Can hardly get any fluid out of my rear calipers on my 04 Mach 1. Peddle seems shitty and the rears won’t compress the pad against the rotor.
Hey brian did you ever get this sorted with the Mach1 my 00 Gt is having same issue where nothing comes out the rear calipers when attempting to bleed them. Wondering if a proportioning valve needs replacing or brake like at the banjo needs replaced with steel braided lines 🤷♂️
@@rileydines I did man. Definitely the proportioning valve. What I did to fix it was open up the line on the proportioning valve for the front brakes then have someone stomp them real hard while it’s open than close it than try bleeding the rears again
I've never heard of this before, but I'm struggling here. no idea if I have a bad master cylinder or a stuck proportional valve. what do I even try next.
I Have bumped the air twice from the rear and got fluid out left front. But the valve wont stay in the nutral position When I try to bleed the rear brakes it will not bleed ! Any ideas?
Hi great video. Just wondering if you're replying to messages. I have a 2001 GT. rear calipers not bleeding I can find the tool you used to get the proportional valve to go into the correct position. Can you provide the name of the tool canister?
If you collapse the rear calipers like you are installing new brake pads you should be able to bleed the brakes without the tool using the buddy bleed method. Let me know how you make out, if you still need the tool I will have to look it up and get you a link when I get back home in front of my computer 👍
I was able to order the tool. My problem is I can't get the rear calipers to bleed the master cylinder won't bleed for the rear either. so I'm thinking the master cylinder is trash.
Hi only the front will bleed the rear will drip and stop. Also, the master cylinder for the rear will not bleed I took the bleeder off, and it was dry I pushed on the brake pedal and with the bleeder off no fluid came out.@@thisguysgarage
@@stevencogar7393 if you can't bleed both sides of the master cylinder at the master cylinder, you are probably looking at replacing the master cylinder imo 👍
What about if the front passenger’s side is the one cannot bleed is this thesame procedure? Or pump the air in the back, by the way what causes of this kind problem?
problem is caused by a leak. the easiest method is to collapse the caliper on the brake that wont bleed ,like you are replacing the brake linings , this will reset the proportional valve th-cam.com/video/texW8E9EAJQ/w-d-xo.html video here ,let me know how you make out.
@@thisguysgarage I try to collapse the caliper just like what your video say but never move, and I try to loosen the bleeding nipple but no fluid comes out, is it ok to blow air on the bleeding nipple with out loosing any other bleeding nipple or I have to open one if so should it be in the rear or on the front passenger side?
compressing your calipers that wont bleed like you are installing new pad will give you the same result. force the fluid back and recenter the proportional valve. then bleed as usual when its put back together.
I have a 1978 Datsun 280Z. Brake lines were empty for a long time while I restored the vehicle. Filled it with brake fluid and tried to bleed the brakes multiple times but the brakes stay squishy and it acts like the brakes are not bled. Is this the proportional valve causing problems? When I open the bleeder on the front, fluid runs out; if I open the bleeder on the back, fluid barely drips out and this is without pushing the brake pedal. If the pedal is depressed, fluid runs out of both sides. I'm trying to find a new proportioning valve to buy to replace the proportioning valve but having little luck finding the right one! Thanks!
Curious, when you say can not bleed, you mean can not get all AIR OUT of the system whether it be front or back? I am getting air in my front's and no air in my back's. No matter what I do.
@@thisguysgarage stream of fluid, with air bubbles. acting like a failed m/c but not because i've plugged and tested that. was curious as your video said no fluid in one system until rod was even, then fluid.
03 Chevy trailblazer I have no front brakes but have straight fluid coming out of the back calipers 🤔 I believe the proportional valve is stuck to the one side do you know how I can reset it by myself with the cracked tools or suction pump I haven't tried the hail Mary option is that my best option🤷🤔🙄?
try pushing both front calipers back all the way in there seats make sure the are full of fluid ,if you want to avoid the hail Mary method , but if that doest work the hail Mary method might be your only option besides replacing the valve itself which is a big issue and the reason i made this video. let me know if you have any other questions and how you make out.
start bleeding at the master cylinder and verify there is fluid at the master. then start working your way down to the alipers . verify the master is moving fluid. let me know what you find.
I've got a 1998 ford ranger that the front drivers side line got ripped off. I replaced the line and now I have no fluid coming out the front of the Master cylinder. I done your hail Mary deal and got fluid moving back to the front line but I still have none coming out the front of the MC when I break the line loose. Does the ABS module block the fluid from coming out there?
I can bleed the rear brakes. Can a prop valve keep the brakes from getting ENOUGH pressure for balanced braking, or is it all or none?? Read brakes dont seem to have enough, but some pressure. Thank You
Hello, I tried the procedure but from the front bleeder because my master cylinder doesn’t have a bleeder, and unfortunately it didn’t allow brake fluid to go to the rear. It did for a little bit and it wouldn’t do it again. I purchased the valve but was hoping that it would have worked. Parts are hard to get, and it took me a week for my new master cylinder to get to me. Now my front brakes work amazing, but when I went to bleed from the rear no fluid was coming out. I unplugged the line under the wrangler going to the rear brakes, and nothing. So I removed the brake line to the valve and nothing.
@@thisguysgarage I just bought the new part. My wrangler has big wheels, abs wheel spacers so it’s a pain to remove all of that. Then I’m not even sure how to compress the brake drums. I bought the new proportional valve for $49. I was having issue with my brake pedal going to the floor. I replaced the grommet for the brake booster because it was cracked . Then I replaced the master cylinder which that made my brakes stay firm and not go down to the floor. They actually work like never before, but I don’t like that I was unable to bleed them from the rear.
Hi Guy, Can you please tell me what is the rubber capped button on the proportion valve for. Thanks for the video very clear and informative. I have a 71 oldsmobile Toronado FWD.
under the cap should be a center button which is supposed to reset the proportion valve, I have not had opportunity to see if it will work, but that is what is under there, ty for your question
Please respond... if I fluid reaching all 4 calipers but pedal goes to floor with almost no braking response can I run a tube from each bleeder screw to the master cylinder reservoir 1 at a time and pump the brake pedal until only fluid is in the tube will that properly bleed the entire brake line system and master cylinder where the brake pedal will be solid and responsive
if your brake pedal is going to the floor when the system is properly bled i would look at the master cylinder first , because if the booster was bad you would have hard brake pedal instead of a soft pedal. #1 suspect is the master cylinder let me know how you are making out
I've been trying to bleed the brakes on a 2006 Ford f150 king ranch and I've replaced all the calipers all the brake pads and even the master cylinder and there are no abs lights on and I still can't get it to bleed. I don't know what it could be or what to do. I'm thinking it could possibly be the abs pump but then again there isn't any lights on the dash. I'm lost and any help would be greatly appreciated
@@thisguysgarage well the guy I bought it from said one of the calipers pistons had busted so he replaced it and said that all I had to do was bleed the brakes and I've bleed them several times now and it still stops but the brakes are very spongy. I think air may be trapped in the abs pump but the abs light isnt on at all nor any other light so I'm a bit lost
@Riley Dines I did actually find out what the problem was. The previous owner put new calipers on before I got it and told me all I had to do was bleed the brakes but when I tried multiple times they never bleed properly so I got to looking and thinking and the issue only ever happened after the new calipers so I looked at them and the guy installed two right front calipers on the truck one on the right and one on the left. You'd think that you can't put a right on the left but you can except it would be upside-down which makes the bleeder valve be on the bottom of the caliper and not at the top where it should be which makes it to where you can't bleed the air out of that caliper which means that you'll never be able to get the air out of the system. So hopefully that helps you out and anyone else having the same issue.
Just replaced front hoses on my 97 ram 1500, along with one hardline in the rear. I’m having trouble bleeding them. At his time I’m not getting fluid out of the front calipers, only if I press the brakes the fluid will come out. The rear brakes are bleeding fine. Is this a proportional valve issue ?
Really cool info I never knew that. Question for you: if the valve sticks in the first place, doesn't that mean it's likely to do it again and should be replaced anyways? Or can you unstick them and they'll usually be good until the next time you blow a hose?
great question ,this problem is associated with a brake line busting . so when the hydraulic leak is fixed the proportional reset the valve wont move unless you have another leak... ty for the question
Yo Caper! First to hit the like button!!! Thanks for the automotive tutorial, I've learned something new and I appreciate that. Hope all is well homie!!
Okay so what if I bleed all my breaks individually and in sets front and back at the same time and there is pressure when the truck is off but I turn it on n all pressure goes away I’ve bleed the master cylinder as well
Getting ready to try this after replacing section of both rear lines. Have a question as car has been sitting, off, til the lines replaced. Had a leak (bad flare). when I added brake fluid. So seems it was getting fluid to the line. After removal and fixing the flare, can't get it to bleed (rear passenger side). Would the PV move in a scenario like this? Since hydraulic and was pumping the problem pedal, my guess is yes. But this is first time dealing with brake line repair... and still have to get the other bleeder valve loose to replace it. Thanks very for any answers!
the second pump going to the floor triggers the action of the PV in total brake line failure ,so a leak would stand to reason would cause the same reaction just over the course of multiple brake pumping,be sure to let me know how you make out ,any other questions fire away and please ring the bell, it helps out greatly
Im here with this issue. I put a new caliper on it. And what you know. The caliper wouldn't work. It got hot as hells. And I had to get another one. And I am still having issues of getting brake fluid to come out of the bleeder valve. But, when I start it. I can get it to bleed out. I usug%ally bleed my brakes with it off. Any suggestions. Im getting fluid to the caliper. Could it be the washer I have on the brake hose bolt on the caliber. Not allowing enough fluid to come through?
If you're 2nd caliper is sticking and your getting it to bleed the problem is more than likely a bad flex hose not allowing the fluid back out of the caliper. Sometimes the flex hose gets crushed at the color, does this sound like what you are experiencing?
I've got a 2013 Malibu Ltz installed a new Caliper unfortunately the tool I had that was supposed to stop brake fluid from spilling everywhere didn't work and I lost most of the fluid now the rear brakes have no fluid I'm assuming this is the issue that the valve is in position to provide front brakes and no rear.. It is my daily driver and It stops with front brakes but obviously I want my rear brakes.. I'm hoping this will work also I have a vacuum bleeder but it isn't one you hook to compressor will that work? Thanks for any information! Enjoy your videos
I'm on vacation right now but there is a much easier solutions video in the end screen of this video. Watch this if you have any questions let me know I will follow up with you.
@@thisguysgarage Thank you Thank you so much! That worked like a charm! Just had to decompress the driver caliper as the passenger was new and already decompressed but now have the rear brakes working!
Saved me about 150 bucks brother valve was stuck and airgun worked perfectly ^.^ thank you!
the hail marry method yeah! buddy! awesome thanks so much for letting me know!
Dude, you are right on target. Many thanks 😊
@@lauriebegood 👍ty
How you use the air gun for ur brakes???
@@thisguysgarage What if the lines or caliper is clogged/messed up???
I’ve been working on my daughters brakes for days. I was just about to take it to the shop, before I saw this video. You are my new best friend
Glad I could help
geesus finely someone who acually understands whats going on . some times if it sits over nite it fixes its self but seldom .you can get some peddle and are able to bleed .thanks guy.
Awesome, this is the first result I've been. A garage mechanic for a long time and never had this happen
THANK YOU! 1999 Dodge Durango went to five (5) ASE mechanics for horrible brakes, new master cylinder (twice), new rotors, new shoes, babied...bad brakes. Then SUDDENLY, bad went to worse as the front brakes were almost lost the ABS system went nuts. Your "last resort" was done. Fed up with mechanics I researched and came to your sight by accident. It made sense. Opened the front and rear bleeders and brake fluid gushed out the front, hit it with air at the back, bleed the system and viola! For the FIRST TIME in 22 years I have great brakes. THANK YOU. I kid you not, 5 mechanics didn't find that problem. ???? ...and I spent some money over that time.
you are the man James . thanks so much for taking the time ,keep in touch!
This is the current situation I’m in rite now I have spent 1000 dollars on new stuff and yet still no brakes 😢 4 different so called mechanic couldn’t figure this out !! Can’t wait to get off to try this !!
this is the mentality that if your battery goes dead buy a new battery; you are correcting the symptoms and not addressing the cause(s), ie alternator, bad ground, parasitic draw etc..
I found this video a couple days ago. I want to thank you very much for posting it. It helped me a great deal.
Glad it helped!
I really appreciate the tips in this video as I just finished rear brake lines on a 1999 lexus es 300 and the proportioning valve was stuck badky only giving fluid to the fronts. I didnt have a bleeder in my master cylinder and the 2nd tip for unsticking it didnt work so I had to do the hail mary approach and it fixed the issue immediately! No sooner than I shot two puffs of an airgun into the rear bleeder that fluid started rushing out. Bled all 4 using the air compressor tool you refer to and lastly two person bleeding and Im back on the road. Thank you for making these types of videos!
ty so much💯
My buddy bleed system is using one of my 4” decorative yard blocks that you can buy at Lowes. These blocks are heavy enough that once you have pumped your pedal and are in the hold position, you wedge that block against your pedal and it will hold it. Then go crack your bleeder and then close it like normal. Once again go to the drivers seat and move the block. Pump, pump, pump and hold. Wedge your block and make sure it holds. Go crack your bleeder at your wheel and close it back. Follow your manufacture’s pattern of which wheel is bled first. 2nd, 3rd and finally 4th. This method doesn’t require you to depend on whether or not someone can hear you and you know that the person didn’t release the pedal before you close the bleeder at the wheel. It works like a champ.
Thank you!! I had a leaky master cyl on my 1980 firebird. After bench bleeding the new one and installing it, couldn't get the rear brakes to bleed. Very little fluid coming out. The brake light was on dash, indicating the prop valve triggered. I tried various brake pedal and cracking tips to recenter. No luck. Then i found your vid. I dont have vac bleeder so i went to the air gun method. That blew the prop valve the other extreme. Light was still on, but i could bleed rears no prob. When i moved to front, they bled no prob and the valve recentered and light went off. All good. Thank you from Hamilton.
the hail marry method,,, BOOM. been a while since i have been to Hamilton. I'm from Cape Breton Nova Scotia. i really appreciate you taking the time my friend, YOU ROCK😉
Thank you for this Video... After watching this I went straight for the Hell Mary option, and Wahla it worked!!!! I didn't try anything else you demonstrated, im just glad the Hell Mary version worked... I have solid brakes!!!!!
Dang this might have helped me out the other day. Had to put a master cylinder in a chevy silverado with abs, and I've never had so much trouble bleeding brakes before. I bled the brakes and the ABS pump about 5 times with my scan tool. I finally broke down and bought about a 300 dollar pressure bleeder, which I must say did get the job done.
TGG! I've said it before and I'll say it again. I don't always comment, these days, but i LIKE everything you do, man! Cheers and God bless! 😁🍻👍
Ty Dave always appreciated and right back at you 🤜🤛
Thank you for the vid. In my 94 silverado , the proportional valve was tripped , but to the rear of the valve and the manual reset only resets if it trips to the front of the valve. Had to take off line to front brakes and do a quick pump, and that tripped it the other way and then I was able to use the manual reset to center it a again. Now back to figuring out why I have air continuously coming out of left rear.
You are the man. After looking at dozens of lame video that really had nothing to do with the issue I got on to yours and you succinctly intelligently laid it out exactly how it is and for that I appreciate it great stuff.
much appreciated Matthew 🤜🤛👍
Great information, Thank you, Mr Guy, boy never had problems with changing out caliper and I ran into a problems, your information helps to understand now never knew this thank you again
wow I never thought about the air method. My 88 Lincoln Town Car has a stuck proportional and I cant find the part anywhere. Im going to try and force some air through. I will let you know. Thanks for the great information.
Excellent information.What i did was the same but i put a container on the rear brake bleed valve and filled it with fluid. When i sucked the fluid out the master cylinder it automatically filled the brake lines with fresh fluid.
Finally a video with my car thanks bro
portioning valves are not always plumbed front and rear. Some cars are X pattern rt frt / left rear on one circuit. lt frt / rt rr on the other
Thank you so much. Nice 78 Malibu.
Very welcome and thanks 👍
HEY, I have the same bleeder!! You are 100% right about not solely depending on that bleeder, because I don't either! Sometimes its just not as good as the always perfect buddy system. I'm digging the HAIL MARY method, LOL! Great instructions Shaun!
Thanks so much tim. Means the world 🤜🤛
THIS. GUYS. GARAGE. Very WELL. EXPLAIN ED. VIDOO. On. A SUBJECT. I. KNEW. MOTHING. ABOUT. BEFORE. Watching. Your. Video. PS. THE. CHARTS. Y0U. USED. Too. We’re. A. GOOD. HELP.
Thanks 👍
wtf. is. up. with. so.many. damn. periods. . . . .
Lmao I google break cables for my ranger and this video ends up in my recommended, at lest the algorithm is helping the little guy for once.
👍
The old mity vac has saved my bacon a number of times! great video.
Thanks so much shawn
Thanks for the video. I'm helping my son on his 1988 Honda Accord and I could not figure it out why I can't bleed the front brakes? I think I know now.
Thank you for this video my man! I had my bavk against the wall. Bought the wrong Valve and was trying to find a solution. Found this video 🤟🏼 time to see what works
"this guy's gradge" thanks man!
You bet!
Awesome video. I'm sure my valve is screwed. I'm definitely buying one of those tools!
Wait...is this the House of Commons channel ?!? lol cars and guitars luv it bro
Yikes I hope I don’t run in to this issue as I swap out all my brakelines, hopefully the prop valve will not move during the process and I will gravity fluid through the system as I change them, gonna do the rear first and then the front. I am grateful to be armed with this insight now so I won’t be shocked if it happens, thanks for posting this
ty so much kelli ,let me know how you make out.
@@thisguysgarage I had no issues bleeding that one out, the brakes had not yet failed so the lines only emptied when I removed the lines. I did end up with an abs light, but have since learned that I need to energize the abs valve while I bleed it - hasn’t been an issue I have driven it that way ever since the brakes work great. I am now about to do the lines on my other truck as they are badly corroded and I will have an issue soon if I don’t change them. Oh ya I always use my morive power bleeder that connects to the master cyl and it makes bleeding a breeze, well worth the few dollars it costed.
Nice video! Wish I could say my new truck was working out. Smh. First back up camera replacement now the dash with 3k on it is warping...Local dealer really not working hard... ugh. Miss my Tundra more and more now. 😞
Sorry to hear that brian its ridiculous. ty for stopping by!
I bought an 01 tundra about Sept 1st.I loved it.Two weeks later was 911.Working for a major airline low pay because I was relatively new I eventually sold it because of fuel price fears.It was a perfect size and that was a major complaint so they are huge now.But the 5.7 really moves with a good job I bought a new vehicle every 2-3 years didn't make sense to buy a super reliable one to keep trading.Now retired I have a Yukon 254,000 miles but it keeps going with many broken parts and rated at 16 MPG hwy I get 18 it's 4wd.A little better than my 2wd tundra but I miss the Toyota.
Great video , thanks for posting . PS What is that excellent music playing in the background .
i really cant remember lol ,thank you for the kind words
Thank you for your knowledge and sharing.
So nice of you James ,thanks
62K views?!?!
This calls for an entire series.
Ride the algorithm.
-Chuck
you are not wrong lol
Can a bad proportioning valve cause rear brakes to stay seized? I've changed brakes, calipers, flex line, abs modulator, but the brakes keep staying seized. I can push them open with a screw driver. Any help with be appreciated, at wits end 😔
Hi I have a vacuum bleeder...and I learned the hard way that vacuum bleeding the rear brakes of my 2001 dodge ram cargo van causes the brake switch to go offcenter and the brake switch lite comes on ....is there a way to vacuum bleed the rear brakes without the brake switch lite coming on or do I just avoid vacuum bleeding the rear brakes?
Could the proportioning valve be partially off? I get the fluid to bleed at the front brakes and rear driver side, but cannot get the rear passenger side to bleed. 2007 Toyota Corolla.
Check your rear flex hose on that side that won't bleed, they swell up and won't let fluid through, they also can trap fluid in the caliper and can cause the brake to stay applied. To check Crack the line going into the flex hose see if you are getting fluid there. Let me know how you make out 👍
I'm not sure if this is the same issue, but I get fluid to the rear. Caliper pistons are twist in, and as im bleeding them master cylinder drains down (not completely) as usual. As i pump brake pedal it begins to stiffen up but rear pistons never fully compress the pads. If you watch them they move in and out ever so slightly along with the brake pedal.
I had to replace a rear caliper on a 2004 Escalade with ABS. The two rear wheels are bleeding but I am not getting any fluid from the front wheels. I've collapsed the pistons and also tried a vacuum pump and still nothing comes out the front. I want to try the hail mary. So, do I blast air into the front or real caliper nozzle? Also, do I have to leave the other nozzles open?
Hail Mary option appropriately named.
How's she goin'? That's an interesting procedure. I like that you gave a couple of different options to try before you would take the big plunge and change the proportional valve!!! Thanks for sharing and take care!!
Thanks for stopping by grampie, much appreciated 🤝
You're doing great work that will help someone out here. Keep it up dude
thanks so much,appreciate it!
You’d make a great shop teacher.
thanks so much bruce .too kind!
Can you tell me why I have an older brass proportional brake valve with a pin sized hole on the side and I got brake fluid spitting out of that little hole I tried plugging it up and that didn't work with JB weld.
I go to order a new one and the newer brass valve doesn't even have a hole on the side.
I know it's leaking pass the o-rings and leaking out this little pin sized hole.
Do I have just an older brass unit and what was the purpose of this little hole on the side of the unit?
Thanks buddy. That was very helpful.
Trying to bleed a 1991 Chevy obs and my front lines there’s no air and didn’t take long to bleed , my rear brakes I’m getting lots of air and been trying to bleed for hours , what could I try next ?
Good afternoon sir , i have problem with after replaced master cylinder & my driver front side able to manual bleed fluid come out well , but other 3 wont manual bleed but its does only when i use scanner abs bleed . please help im appreciate Sir
Very helpful information. Thx
Glad it was helpful!
Studying for brakes ASE test and I've never had anything to do with a combination. Your video was very helpful for understanding how it works. Thanks, you just got a like and subscribe from me.
Thanks, but the brake bleeder tool didn't work as instructed. The hail mary didn't work either. Can you tell what I should do next? Thanks!!!!!
Everything you explained in the beginning is my exact problem. So I had a break in the system (rear drum brake wheel cylinders were busted) so the front bleed and rear won’t bleed. I have access to the p-valve. So I can suck from the front brake bleeder bolt while I have one rear bleeder open correct? How much fluid or how long do I draw fluid back from the front caliper? Also do I leave the master cylinder cap on or off. After all that do I close the front bleeder and draw from the rear after everything is closed? Thanks man hope I can fix this truck lol
Well done. Have you ever tried speed bleeders? First thing I do when bleeding brakes is to add them. Makes it a one man job. No ones ever around when I need to bleed them.
No I have never seen them,I will have to take a look for them Smitty.
Never a soul around when you need them lol, do you have a link for those?
Dorman offers them also. Last pair I got was off the rack at Auto zone
@@smittymhs1452 thanks my friend I will be testing em out for sure 👍
@@thisguysgaragePlease let us know what you think. I know most guys don't know they exist.
Hi,
I converted my front brakes to disc and installed new front brake lines a rear middle brake line and a new power brake booster and Mc as well as a new combination valve..
I unfortunately didn't block off the pressure differential valve when I bless the brake... So now my brake are still soft after bleeding and the light is on. I took the combination switch offand it looks like the valve got triggered..
One question:
How does one re-center the pressure differential valve as it got triggered while bleeding my brakes and I didn't know about the block off plug? 🤔
In my opinion now that you have converted to a front disk brake setup you will be better to purchase an adjustable proportional valve , they are pretty cheap through summit or iegs
77 dollars on Amazon great video thanks
My brake fluid only comes out if I start the engine when bleeding the rear brake... I also noticed the same brake is dragging...any suggestions?
made it to age 52 without ever having this problem... hope I never do, but now at least I know how to fix it if I do!
thank you sir handy dad👍
I just did a front disc conversion on a car that had drums on all 4 corners. I had to run new lines for the front. When I went to bleed the system I had a bad leak on one of my new lines. I had a bad flare and had to redo the line. I no longer have a leak, but I'm now having trouble bleeding the front. I'm guessing it's the proportioning valve.
did you install a proportional valve for front disk brakes?
master cylinder changed for for disk brakes?
if yes
try compressing your front calipers like your putting new pads on and try bleeding again.
@@thisguysgarage Correct. New master cylinder, and a disc/drum proportioning valve. I did not remove the warning circuit and lock the valve in place when bleeding though.
@@RYTHMICRIOT I don't think the circuit warning would effect bleeding. Is it possible the rear line is feeding the front? There would be much less fluid for a wheel cylinder then a caliper?
I have a 89 suburban. I recently replace the master cylinder and both front caliperss. I couldnt get fluid to do more then trickle out of the rear. So i ended up replacing the the porplrtioning valve. Still nothing. I can bleed the fronts but nothing in the rear and still no pedal.
i would check your flex hoses.they are known to swell up and cause blockages.
89 would not have ABS ?
Great tip thanks I've had this happen a few times over the years if it ever happens again I will definitely try this. And best of luck to everyone that is racing this weekend at Cape Breton hope you all stay safe. There will be no racing here at my home track Greenfield at all this season which really sucks but it is what it is. With only 250 people allowed on the property I'm guessing you won't be there doing any videos
if my wife wasn't working i would have entered the cougar to get some footage but thems the brakes lol,ty for stopping by appreciate it. when things get back to normal hope to see you at your track or ours. appreciate you taking the time!
What if I rebuilt both front calipers and already collapsed the Puck and then reinstalled? How do I go about resetting proportional valve then
Great video, thanks
My question is when flushing the brake fluid from my friends car I cannot get fluid to come out of any of the 4 wheels, if it was only one wheel that wasn’t bleeding I know that it would be likely a bad caliper but on all four wheels, could it be the abs unit that giving problems or master brake cyclinder. Thanks
Dang best explanation I've seen anywhere!! Thank you brother! My 97 lt1 has only fronts working and pedal hard as hell. This happened after a rear caliper leak. 2 shops wanted to change the master and booster.
thanks so much 👍
Did this fix the problem? My 96 lt1 is having same problem with only front brakes and no rear
@@PeterrDoucetteyes it worked. Open the rear and suck it open just like he did. You can see it working if you unscrew the sensor on top. You'll see when it's back in center
@@Emilthehun I’ll give it a shot this week. Thanks for the reply! I wasn’t sure if I’d get one from a 2 year old comment hahaha
Okay u are a great teacher. I wish u do a video of stick calibre. How to remove stick calibre?
What did you need to know?
@@thisguysgarage i wanna know how to unstick it and what was the cause may be?
@@chuchu-ee6fv they generally get stuck when the pad is low, if the pad is not low I would look at the flex next.
@@chuchu-ee6fv IL make a short video
@@chuchu-ee6fv on it, stay tuned
I'm just going to bleed the brakes again. I'm sure that my daughter & her husband probably took turns pressing on the brake pedal after she said the brakes weren't working. We already replaced the bad lines going to the rear of the car, now it's just bleeding the system correctly. Plus the front calipers were replaced as well sooooo it's gonna require that much more bleeding anyways.....
Im going to try this tomorrow! Can hardly get any fluid out of my rear calipers on my 04 Mach 1. Peddle seems shitty and the rears won’t compress the pad against the rotor.
Hey brian did you ever get this sorted with the Mach1 my 00 Gt is having same issue where nothing comes out the rear calipers when attempting to bleed them. Wondering if a proportioning valve needs replacing or brake like at the banjo needs replaced with steel braided lines 🤷♂️
@@rileydines I did man. Definitely the proportioning valve. What I did to fix it was open up the line on the proportioning valve for the front brakes then have someone stomp them real hard while it’s open than close it than try bleeding the rears again
I've never heard of this before, but I'm struggling here. no idea if I have a bad master cylinder or a stuck proportional valve. what do I even try next.
I Have bumped the air twice from the rear and got fluid out left front. But the valve wont stay in the nutral position When I try to bleed the rear brakes it will not bleed ! Any ideas?
Great video brother keep up the good work caper 👍🇨🇦
Ty again my friend
Hi great video. Just wondering if you're replying to messages. I have a 2001 GT. rear calipers not bleeding I can find the tool you used to get the proportional valve to go into the correct position. Can you provide the name of the tool canister?
If you collapse the rear calipers like you are installing new brake pads you should be able to bleed the brakes without the tool using the buddy bleed method. Let me know how you make out, if you still need the tool I will have to look it up and get you a link when I get back home in front of my computer 👍
I was able to order the tool. My problem is I can't get the rear calipers to bleed the master cylinder won't bleed for the rear either. so I'm thinking the master cylinder is trash.
@@stevencogar7393 will front and rear bleed at the master?
Hi only the front will bleed the rear will drip and stop. Also, the master cylinder for the rear will not bleed I took the bleeder off, and it was dry I pushed on the brake pedal and with the bleeder off no fluid came out.@@thisguysgarage
@@stevencogar7393 if you can't bleed both sides of the master cylinder at the master cylinder, you are probably looking at replacing the master cylinder imo 👍
What about if the front passenger’s side is the one cannot bleed is this thesame procedure? Or pump the air in the back, by the way what causes of this kind problem?
problem is caused by a leak. the easiest method is to collapse the caliper on the brake that wont bleed ,like you are replacing the brake linings , this will reset the proportional valve th-cam.com/video/texW8E9EAJQ/w-d-xo.html video here ,let me know how you make out.
@@thisguysgarage I try to collapse the caliper just like what your video say but never move, and I try to loosen the bleeding nipple but no fluid comes out, is it ok to blow air on the bleeding nipple with out loosing any other bleeding nipple or I have to open one if so should it be in the rear or on the front passenger side?
Will this method work with a hand pump kit or do I need a air compressed bleeding kit?
compressing your calipers that wont bleed like you are installing new pad will give you the same result. force the fluid back and recenter the proportional valve. then bleed as usual when its put back together.
This guys garage getting it done more ways then 1!!! 🤜🤛👍🍻🍻🍻
ty , appreciate it.
What If I’m not losing fluid I have zero brakes first pump always low second pump pedal goes back to normal and light goes off
I have a 1978 Datsun 280Z. Brake lines were empty for a long time while I restored the vehicle. Filled it with brake fluid and tried to bleed the brakes multiple times but the brakes stay squishy and it acts like the brakes are not bled. Is this the proportional valve causing problems? When I open the bleeder on the front, fluid runs out; if I open the bleeder on the back, fluid barely drips out and this is without pushing the brake pedal. If the pedal is depressed, fluid runs out of both sides. I'm trying to find a new proportioning valve to buy to replace the proportioning valve but having little luck finding the right one! Thanks!
Curious, when you say can not bleed, you mean can not get all AIR OUT of the system whether it be front or back? I am getting air in my front's and no air in my back's. No matter what I do.
ARE YOU GETTING A STREAM OF FLUID? OR NOTHING AT ALL?
@@thisguysgarage stream of fluid, with air bubbles. acting like a failed m/c but not because i've plugged and tested that. was curious as your video said no fluid in one system until rod was even, then fluid.
thanks a lot, worked great for me
You're welcome!
Would this work on a 1997 Chevy c1500 that has proportioning valve built into the ABS module?
So this is the way it’s done if the FRONT brake isn’t getting any fluid ?
bleed from the rear with the front line or master bleeder open ,yes for the front
thanks used the last draw it works
Awesome to hear, appreciate your taking the time 👍
03 Chevy trailblazer
I have no front brakes but have straight fluid coming out of the back calipers 🤔 I believe the proportional valve is stuck to the one side do you know how I can reset it by myself with the cracked tools or suction pump I haven't tried the hail Mary option is that my best option🤷🤔🙄?
try pushing both front calipers back all the way in there seats make sure the are full of fluid ,if you want to avoid the hail Mary method , but if that doest work the hail Mary method might be your only option besides replacing the valve itself which is a big issue and the reason i made this video. let me know if you have any other questions and how you make out.
Just put a video out based on your question 5 minutes ago
Cant get any fluid out of front calipers. Tried blowing into the rears and only got fluid and air moving into the MC. What to do???
start bleeding at the master cylinder and verify there is fluid at the master. then start working your way down to the alipers . verify the master is moving fluid. let me know what you find.
I blew my front line so to get a good bleed I should blow air into front bleeder to reset the proportional valve?
Try compressing your caliper first.like your installing new brake pads.
I've got a 1998 ford ranger that the front drivers side line got ripped off. I replaced the line and now I have no fluid coming out the front of the Master cylinder. I done your hail Mary deal and got fluid moving back to the front line but I still have none coming out the front of the MC when I break the line loose. Does the ABS module block the fluid from coming out there?
Again no leaks no loss of fluid
I can bleed the rear brakes. Can a prop valve keep the brakes from getting ENOUGH pressure for balanced braking, or is it all or none?? Read brakes dont seem to have enough, but some pressure. Thank You
So you can bleed your rear ,no bleed on the front?
could be air in abs modulator
Hello,
I tried the procedure but from the front bleeder because my master cylinder doesn’t have a bleeder, and unfortunately it didn’t allow brake fluid to go to the rear. It did for a little bit and it wouldn’t do it again. I purchased the valve but was hoping that it would have worked. Parts are hard to get, and it took me a week for my new master cylinder to get to me. Now my front brakes work amazing, but when I went to bleed from the rear no fluid was coming out. I unplugged the line under the wrangler going to the rear brakes, and nothing. So I removed the brake line to the valve and nothing.
compress your rear calipers it will force the fluid back to the master and recenter the prop valve.
@@thisguysgarage
I just bought the new part. My wrangler has big wheels, abs wheel spacers so it’s a pain to remove all of that. Then I’m not even sure how to compress the brake drums. I bought the new proportional valve for $49. I was having issue with my brake pedal going to the floor. I replaced the grommet for the brake booster because it was cracked . Then I replaced the master cylinder which that made my brakes stay firm and not go down to the floor. They actually work like never before, but I don’t like that I was unable to bleed them from the rear.
Nice work!
Hi Guy, Can you please tell me what is the rubber capped button on the proportion valve for. Thanks for the video very clear and informative. I have a 71 oldsmobile Toronado FWD.
under the cap should be a center button which is supposed to reset the proportion valve, I have not had opportunity to see if it will work, but that is what is under there, ty for your question
Please respond... if I fluid reaching all 4 calipers but pedal goes to floor with almost no braking response can I run a tube from each bleeder screw to the master cylinder reservoir 1 at a time and pump the brake pedal until only fluid is in the tube will that properly bleed the entire brake line system and master cylinder where the brake pedal will be solid and responsive
if your brake pedal is going to the floor when the system is properly bled i would look at the master cylinder first , because if the booster was bad you would have hard brake pedal instead of a soft pedal. #1 suspect is the master cylinder
let me know how you are making out
I've been trying to bleed the brakes on a 2006 Ford f150 king ranch and I've replaced all the calipers all the brake pads and even the master cylinder and there are no abs lights on and I still can't get it to bleed. I don't know what it could be or what to do. I'm thinking it could possibly be the abs pump but then again there isn't any lights on the dash. I'm lost and any help would be greatly appreciated
What was the problem you started with?
@@thisguysgarage well the guy I bought it from said one of the calipers pistons had busted so he replaced it and said that all I had to do was bleed the brakes and I've bleed them several times now and it still stops but the brakes are very spongy. I think air may be trapped in the abs pump but the abs light isnt on at all nor any other light so I'm a bit lost
@@noahcraft4905 did you ever sort this issue? I having a similar problem but no abs light is on my mustang
@Riley Dines I did actually find out what the problem was. The previous owner put new calipers on before I got it and told me all I had to do was bleed the brakes but when I tried multiple times they never bleed properly so I got to looking and thinking and the issue only ever happened after the new calipers so I looked at them and the guy installed two right front calipers on the truck one on the right and one on the left. You'd think that you can't put a right on the left but you can except it would be upside-down which makes the bleeder valve be on the bottom of the caliper and not at the top where it should be which makes it to where you can't bleed the air out of that caliper which means that you'll never be able to get the air out of the system. So hopefully that helps you out and anyone else having the same issue.
@@noahcraft4905 thanks a lot for the reply I’ll take a look and make sure my calipers are installed with the bleeders facing up for sure!
Just replaced front hoses on my 97 ram 1500, along with one hardline in the rear. I’m having trouble bleeding them. At his time I’m not getting fluid out of the front calipers, only if I press the brakes the fluid will come out. The rear brakes are bleeding fine. Is this a proportional valve issue ?
Hey pattie did the front flex hose bust or leak ?
Really cool info I never knew that. Question for you: if the valve sticks in the first place, doesn't that mean it's likely to do it again and should be replaced anyways? Or can you unstick them and they'll usually be good until the next time you blow a hose?
great question ,this problem is associated with a brake line busting . so when the hydraulic leak is fixed the proportional reset the valve wont move unless you have another leak... ty for the question
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Yo Caper! First to hit the like button!!! Thanks for the automotive tutorial, I've learned something new and I appreciate that. Hope all is well homie!!
Thanks so much Amos. You are the man. All is well. Hopefully this is the same for you my friend 🤝appreciate you 🤜🤛
Okay so what if I bleed all my breaks individually and in sets front and back at the same time and there is pressure when the truck is off but I turn it on n all pressure goes away I’ve bleed the master cylinder as well
Could my combination valve be stuck or have air in it
Getting ready to try this after replacing section of both rear lines. Have a question as car has been sitting, off, til the lines replaced. Had a leak (bad flare). when I added brake fluid. So seems it was getting fluid to the line. After removal and fixing the flare, can't get it to bleed (rear passenger side). Would the PV move in a scenario like this? Since hydraulic and was pumping the problem pedal, my guess is yes. But this is first time dealing with brake line repair... and still have to get the other bleeder valve loose to replace it. Thanks very for any answers!
the second pump going to the floor triggers the action of the PV in total brake line failure ,so a leak would stand to reason would cause the same reaction just over the course of multiple brake pumping,be sure to let me know how you make out ,any other questions fire away and please ring the bell, it helps out greatly
8:00 how much PSI did you bump in it for your "Hail Mary" version?
I have the Guage set to 80 psi but 50 should be plenty
Im here with this issue. I put a new caliper on it. And what you know. The caliper wouldn't work. It got hot as hells. And I had to get another one. And I am still having issues of getting brake fluid to come out of the bleeder valve. But, when I start it. I can get it to bleed out. I usug%ally bleed my brakes with it off. Any suggestions. Im getting fluid to the caliper. Could it be the washer I have on the brake hose bolt on the caliber. Not allowing enough fluid to come through?
If you're 2nd caliper is sticking and your getting it to bleed the problem is more than likely a bad flex hose not allowing the fluid back out of the caliper. Sometimes the flex hose gets crushed at the color, does this sound like what you are experiencing?
They still make Amalie oil?
I'm not sure I liberated that sign many a years ago at Epping New Hampshire drayway lol sharp eye 🤜🤛🍻
I've got a 2013 Malibu Ltz installed a new Caliper unfortunately the tool I had that was supposed to stop brake fluid from spilling everywhere didn't work and I lost most of the fluid now the rear brakes have no fluid I'm assuming this is the issue that the valve is in position to provide front brakes and no rear.. It is my daily driver and It stops with front brakes but obviously I want my rear brakes.. I'm hoping this will work also I have a vacuum bleeder but it isn't one you hook to compressor will that work? Thanks for any information! Enjoy your videos
I'm on vacation right now but there is a much easier solutions video in the end screen of this video.
Watch this if you have any questions let me know I will follow up with you.
@@thisguysgarage Thank you Thank you so much! That worked like a charm! Just had to decompress the driver caliper as the passenger was new and already decompressed but now have the rear brakes working!
@@bradwells3558 that is awesome Ty for letting me know 🤜🤛