Finishing the hot chisel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- In the second segment of our look at making a hot set or handled hot chisel, we look at grinding the tool with an angle grinder then hardening and tempering the S7 tool steel. The final step is to add a handle.
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Fire brick and refractory - refwest.com
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
I was cutting some steel with an angle grinder the other day and a chip flew right at my face, leaving a nice little scratch in my safety goggles. That would've gone into my eye if I not for those goggles. Those tiny splinters can wreak havoc. Stay safe, and always wear your armour (goggles).
As mentioned before, doing this all by hand and with basic tools is great.
It makes it a bit more friendly for us new to the craft, since basic tools is what we start with 😁
I find it very good that you keep doing as much as possible with hand tools. So everyone can try and make what you showed! Great job!
GREAT video!!!
Really enjoy your Chanel.
Very good information,
Great looking tool, I always enjoy seeing it start to finish.
Greatly appreciative of your discussion of nearly ALL POSSIBILITIES with a tool and that you clearly state its up to YOU to decide what works best. Would love it if you would (he asks with respect) do the tool form I make with a 5/16 triple or doublet coil around the head extending to a two stranded handle with a flare for the hand and closed with a forge welded V at the hand end.
It lets the tool align really easily to the work both per the hand and relative to the work and each handle can feel ever so slightly different so you know what tool is in the mit even with a mill glove on the hand. If used with a striker not much shock is transfered through either. Its easy and quite quick to make and was quite common in Australia. I've got about 10 or so old tools have picked up around the traps ...punches, fullers, flatters and a few I've made. Cheers John and thanks for all you give.
What a nice tool! Thank you for sharing so much knowledge!
As a lifelong welder/fabricator I really wish I knew more in the blacksmithing end of it.
Nearly all of your videos are like classes in an excellent school on the subject.
Fantastic series, aced it again John.
Great info😇
You do good work. I enjoy your videos.
You always do a great job, Thank You
Looks great John! Love the videos and tutorial on how you made them!
Great demo as always John
The flap wheels are just great eh. I remember the days when they and zip or cut off wheels weren't around. Once again you have posted a great step by step how to my friend. Many thanks fella !
Awesome Black Bear Forge! Thank you!
Inspired to take the plunge on this project
I am in Wyoming and the temp here right now is 13 below, but "luckily", tomorrow it will be 14 above. Thanks for posting. Jerry
Yeah, thats cold
Nice video John and nice tool you made
Turned out great!!
Great tool John and thanks for ur thoughts on wedge v non wedge and 45 v straight. It really helps me know what I want to make👍
Excellent video, thanks!
Enjoy the snow
Dear college-blacksmith i never wedge a hot chisel because one wrong blow from the hammer an d it snaps the wood,secondly one has to remove the chisel when reshaping is in order. Kind regards from Flanders-Belgium
You should do a video on forging a pair of scissors
Came out nice, John. 🐾🔥⚒
Very nice finished product, well done great video :-)
Very nice and well explained projects. Thank you!
Great video Mr. John. Wealth of knowledge in this. Thank you.
In watching hand held verses handle held tools used by various creators...its my perception that handled tools seem to give a slight advantage to applied pressure to the work. As in holding the took more firmly to the work or more steadily to the work without the hand itself being in the line of vision and closer to the heat of the projects piece. But it seems they're best used w some sort of hold fast for the piece . Just my observation from watching though, 0 experience in the actual use
Blessed days sirSir, Crawford out
27 below zero here in my town in Montana wind chill 51 below, little nicer tomorrow, only 22 below zero...oh yeah..
You Are A Natural Born Teacher !!! A Great Video !!! The Only Thing That I Might Suggest Would Be Better Close Up's Or Still Shots !!! I Subscribed About Three Weeks Ago And I Am Having A Fine Time Watching You Channel !!! I Send My Best Regards From The High Desert Of New Mexico !!! 22.67 Thumbs Up
👍
Great video John! I really like the direction you're going with your videos though I like your channel however direction...
What a beautiful intro. Fog in the background and moving around you looks very clean and crisp. I do notice on some videos that they dip the end in oil first. Other than lube is there any other advantage to doing that? Again thanks and as always 👍🏼
Another great video, John!! Be safe, Polar Vortex Coming!!!
Nicevideo
Love your videos I get a lot from them. I'm in the process trying to make a file knife wish me luck just doing a little at a time no rush what so ever. Do you ever make knife videos and or sell knifes?
I rarely make knives.
@@BlackBearForge ok thank you still really enjoy your videos
Huge difference! New camera? Or did you toss out that filter? 😉 looks great
What are some of the things outside of some thing to hammer with and on and a heat source that a beginer wouldn't think to have on hand, like a metal ruler or such?
Forge hammer and anvil are the basics. Safety glasses and hearing protection should top the list. But you also need a way to cut material and hold it while cutting. So vise, hacksaw and a few files are the basics. But an angle grinder with assorted discs can be very handy. Some way to mark and measure material, ruler, tape measure, soap stone, silver pencil or scribe. A pair of premade tongs that fit what you are working on would be nice, but a pair of vise grips will do to start. After that you can make many of the tools you need and the more tools you make the more you will be able to make. Start with hand held punches and chisels
@@BlackBearForge thank you so much for the response
Thanks for the video. What are your thoughts on the wrap around round bar type handles?
This was another great video! Thanks! Quick question: I only have access to 1045 and 4140 round stock. In your opinion, which would make a better ax drift?
I think the 4140 would make a better drift.
@@BlackBearForge Thank you Sir! I really appreciate the advice. Ive never made a RR spike tomahawk before, now I find myself needing the drift for one. Thanks again!
Would you ever use something like an old spike hammer to make tools ? What are your thoughts on this?
Joel Hull, I can't answer for John, but I have repurposed old ball peen hammers into handled chisels, slitters and even a little axe. If you don't know for sure what type of steel it is do a hardness test on a piece. Properly annealed, heat treated and tempered they make decent tools in my opinion,. Have been using a couple of them for a few years now with no deformation or damage. Cheers
Thanks,Mark!
As long as you can figure out how to properly harden and temper it
Have you ever tried soaking your tools in glycerin to keep them from shrinking?
No, It's just one more bucket of stuff in my way
How/where do you get touchmarks made? What metal are they made with?
Mine are made by Henery Evers - henryaevers.com/
@@BlackBearForge Thank you!
Great video, great teaching style, just one gripe...who is this single person downvoting this video (ruins the 100%) lollll
Lov your vids Can you tell
I was under the impression that leaving to cool in air slowly will anneal the steel.
Made 2 Hack edit: never mind, I was thinking of another recent video 😛
Modern steel are formulated for specific hardening methods. S7 is an air hardening steel. Cooling oil or water hardening steels in air normalizes the steel. Annealing of any steel requires even slower cooling than allowing them to air cooling and the rate of cooling is generally found in the manufactures specifications.
Thanks. So for example you would let this steel cool in the burner overnight? Or gradually turn down the heat? @@BlackBearForge
The more complex the steel the more specific the annealing process. For S7 it requires being held at 1550 for 1 - 4 hours depending on thickness. Then it is slowly cooled at a rate of 25 degrees per hour. This is for truly annealing it. I bury it in vermiculite to cool slowly and it results in a softer more stress free and softer material but it isn't truly annealed and would be softer if it were.
Where do you buy your s7 from? Online? If so where?
John, what size round punch did you drift the eye to?
It was probably about 3/8" and I drifted up to about 5/8"
Black Bear Forge thank you
Sorry about the double tap.
Is that an Israeli bandage I see hung up by the radio. Good thing if so
I'm not sure what you're looking at, but there are no medical supplies hanging by the radio
@@BlackBearForge Oh well its dark grey and looks like a plastic vacuum pack. you can see it at 3:47 anyways Love the channel. I think I'm nearly caught up in watching all your past videos.
What kind of split peen you use
In this video my cross peen hammer is an old Craftsman. But I use several different makes of hammer in the shop
27 below zero here in my town in Montana wind chill 51 below, little nicer tomorrow, only 22 below zero...oh yeah..
Thats cold