Hey, nice work. I could tell you were disappointed in having to spring for the whole wheel bearing assembly, but I appreciate the honesty. Plus, you showed us the mechanics of what is going on inside and the how it is all put together. I wonder if Mercedes was trying to avoid problems with resetting the two races that hold the assembly together. I’ve yet to tackle this type of repair, but I feel infinitely more prepared to do so having seen your efforts. I always learn a great deal. The links are great, the pertinent time points in the video, etc. Thanks, and keep it coming.
Thanks for taking the time to leave your comment. I really appreciate it! Yeah, I was a little upset, but stuff happens and you just have to adjust. It would have been less expensive if the bearings and races worked though… 🤷🏽♂️
You may be right regarding the orientation of the races on reinstallation. I forget if it's the inside bearing itself or the race, but if installed backwards, the speed sensor doesn't receive the magnetic signal it needs to work. Definitely some folks out there who got a surprise electrical fault from an incorrectly done mechanical job.
Thanks! 👍. Yeah, it sucked to do all of that to find out the parts are wrong. But it was a great opportunity to inform others about the parts not working.
I got mine from Harbor Freight...MADDOX - Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set 10 Pc. However, you can definitely get a kit off Amazon. I found this set here amzn.to/3yJcLFC and it's less expensive.
My wheel makes that same clicking noise when I hold 12 and 6 o' clock but doesn't have nearly that much play. The steering however has a lot of movement from the road that I can feel. Also when braking and turning at a stand still I hear a sort of rubbing noise is this due to the bad bearing as well? i thought maybe it was allowing my pads to move a bit on the rotor face causing this noise.
Of course. I use a Sony a7ii and Sony zv-E10. I do color grade and do adjustments via Adobe Premiere Pro. Here is a list of my gear. Main Camera - amzn.to/3K2xfgi B-Roll Camera - amzn.to/3kAqlmm B-Roll Lens - amzn.to/2G9elJA Mic 1 - amzn.to/3jY9f35 Mic 2 - amzn.to/3OtgyxH
I was wondering is 0 play acceptable or it needs to be between .001 and .002? is between 0 and .001 acceptable? I'm probably over thinking this but can you also just take a picture or mark where the nut was on the old one and put it on the same location on the new one?
Good video and great information. I learn alot from it. What year is your W212 and what was the bearing replacement kit part number that failed to install and was it Genuine MB part? Thanks
Thanks! 🙏🏽 I have a 2011. The part number for the (incorrect) kit is A2033300051. Yes, I purchased Genuine Mercedes Benz parts. Thanks again for commenting!
Thanks for making this! Super helpful info. Quick question, is the axle locking bolt definitely not reusable? I'm having a hard time finding that exact part from MB in stock anywhere. Do you think I'd have any issues if I just replaced it with a regular M6x25 bolt? I'm assuming it doesn't need to be super strong, since 11 N-m isn't much torque at all.
Thanks for leaving comment and checking out my video/channel. Typically when the parts call to be replace I replace them. For bolts, they could look fine, but the integrity of them be not the same as new after normal wear and tear. Here is the part number and link to the MB Genuine bolt. Mercedes Screw 000000003358 - www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/90145/Screw-000000003358/ Good luck! 👍
Funny, right before you ran into that issue, I was feeling pretty sure MB doesn't sell the bearings/races separately for these chassis. I have a c207 chassis & strangely, I have found 203 part numbers on things like my og flex discs & exhaust hangars, but I doubt a w212 E63 has any 203 parts compatibility. Definitely not for something like this. Either way, glad you got it sorted & thanks for this vid!
@@DriveTalkCars 100%! You gave great detail at the end of the most crucial part of the job too. That certainly helps me & anyone else who sees it. If those bearings/hub aren't seated properly or there's too much/not enough play, I don't wanna be there when that car gets up to speed!! Thanks again
I found out that the outer bearing is a LM12749-LM12710.... Not researched the interior one as I don't need it. Found out the interior one is 32008X (40 68 19) hope this helps anyone as mercedes only sell the complete hub.
Hey, nice work. I could tell you were disappointed in having to spring for the whole wheel bearing assembly, but I appreciate the honesty. Plus, you showed us the mechanics of what is going on inside and the how it is all put together. I wonder if Mercedes was trying to avoid problems with resetting the two races that hold the assembly together. I’ve yet to tackle this type of repair, but I feel infinitely more prepared to do so having seen your efforts. I always learn a great deal. The links are great, the pertinent time points in the video, etc. Thanks, and keep it coming.
Thanks for taking the time to leave your comment. I really appreciate it! Yeah, I was a little upset, but stuff happens and you just have to adjust. It would have been less expensive if the bearings and races worked though… 🤷🏽♂️
You may be right regarding the orientation of the races on reinstallation. I forget if it's the inside bearing itself or the race, but if installed backwards, the speed sensor doesn't receive the magnetic signal it needs to work.
Definitely some folks out there who got a surprise electrical fault from an incorrectly done mechanical job.
Is the same process for an e63 4matic?
Great Video! Nothing like getting a wrong part. I feel for you. You E6.3 looks 👌
Thanks! 👍. Yeah, it sucked to do all of that to find out the parts are wrong. But it was a great opportunity to inform others about the parts not working.
Great and very informative video!
Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks 🙏🏽
What is the bearing press kit you used
I got mine from Harbor Freight...MADDOX - Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set 10 Pc. However, you can definitely get a kit off Amazon. I found this set here amzn.to/3yJcLFC and it's less expensive.
My wheel makes that same clicking noise when I hold 12 and 6 o' clock but doesn't have nearly that much play. The steering however has a lot of movement from the road that I can feel. Also when braking and turning at a stand still I hear a sort of rubbing noise is this due to the bad bearing as well? i thought maybe it was allowing my pads to move a bit on the rotor face causing this noise.
Can I ask what camera do you use? Also how do you light and colorgrade your videos? They look amazing.
Of course. I use a Sony a7ii and Sony zv-E10. I do color grade and do adjustments via Adobe Premiere Pro. Here is a list of my gear.
Main Camera - amzn.to/3K2xfgi
B-Roll Camera - amzn.to/3kAqlmm
B-Roll Lens - amzn.to/2G9elJA
Mic 1 - amzn.to/3jY9f35
Mic 2 - amzn.to/3OtgyxH
Great video
Thank you 🙏🏽
How much assembly was?
Thank god for this channel lol
I was wondering is 0 play acceptable or it needs to be between .001 and .002? is between 0 and .001 acceptable? I'm probably over thinking this but can you also just take a picture or mark where the nut was on the old one and put it on the same location on the new one?
Thx for another great video..👍🏿👍🏿
Thanks bro!
Good video and great information. I learn alot from it. What year is your W212 and what was the bearing replacement kit part number that failed to install and was it Genuine MB part? Thanks
Thanks! 🙏🏽
I have a 2011. The part number for the (incorrect) kit is A2033300051. Yes, I purchased Genuine Mercedes Benz parts. Thanks again for commenting!
Thanks for making this! Super helpful info. Quick question, is the axle locking bolt definitely not reusable? I'm having a hard time finding that exact part from MB in stock anywhere. Do you think I'd have any issues if I just replaced it with a regular M6x25 bolt? I'm assuming it doesn't need to be super strong, since 11 N-m isn't much torque at all.
Thanks for leaving comment and checking out my video/channel. Typically when the parts call to be replace I replace them. For bolts, they could look fine, but the integrity of them be not the same as new after normal wear and tear. Here is the part number and link to the MB Genuine bolt. Mercedes Screw 000000003358 - www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/90145/Screw-000000003358/ Good luck! 👍
Great video 👍
Thank you 🙏🏽
Funny, right before you ran into that issue, I was feeling pretty sure MB doesn't sell the bearings/races separately for these chassis.
I have a c207 chassis & strangely, I have found 203 part numbers on things like my og flex discs & exhaust hangars, but I doubt a w212 E63 has any 203 parts compatibility. Definitely not for something like this. Either way, glad you got it sorted & thanks for this vid!
Thanks for the comment! Yeah, it was definitely a WTF moment...LOL. But maybe it will help someone in the future.
@@DriveTalkCars 100%! You gave great detail at the end of the most crucial part of the job too.
That certainly helps me & anyone else who sees it. If those bearings/hub aren't seated properly or there's too much/not enough play, I don't wanna be there when that car gets up to speed!! Thanks again
I found out that the outer bearing is a LM12749-LM12710.... Not researched the interior one as I don't need it. Found out the interior one is 32008X (40 68 19) hope this helps anyone as mercedes only sell the complete hub.
Thanks for the info!
very very wonderful hand technic sir☺👍💯 by the way what that… "tools name" sir? point 00.1 tool( ´_ゝ`)