That looks like someone was trying to replace thermal paste, the heatsink was glued to pch, stuck a flathead screwdriver to separate the cooler and chipped the PCH.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I've just rewatched this and at 2:08 it's glaringly obvious that the cable from the DC jack isn't properly plugged into the motherboard. The plug is at an angle. As you said someone has been in before and I'll bet that they disconnected that connector and didn't plug it back in correctly.
Someone got very unlucky there, sometimes you get away with a tiny chip at the edge of a die. Have seen it before, I guess it all depends. Suspect someone was curious and had a look inside their laptop, only explanation for that... but why they'd remove the battery and heatsink and reinstall it incorrectly? no clue.
I have the same laptop here at home in the pile of junk laptops. I only bought it for the battery cells I needed and the 2 RAM sticks inside. It was folded in half, broken touchpad and screen,but the goddamn thing still powered on, giving display on an external screen.
The resistance measurement between the SSD power rail and the main 3.3V power rail is sadly inconclusive, it just tells me the resistance to ground of the SSD power rail is 0.6 kΩ, since the main 3.3V rail is fully shorted to ground. Even without a short to ground it wouldn't tell much, there's no reason for the 3.3V SSD high-side switch to have a low resistance across its input and output. (ideally it has high resistance for power savings).
As for the chipped corner on the die, I often see stuff like that, thankfully it doesn't always mean the IC is dead. I have an instance of a Dell mobile workstation that was dropped pretty hard and wasn't POSTing anymore after that. When I disassembled, I saw 3 corners of the discrete GPU damaged, I was sure it would be dead. Disconnected the graphics card and the machine completed POST. Reconnected the graphics card "just to see"… and it was still POSTing. Reassembled everything, turns out the GPU was working perfectly fine even with stress-test. The machine was bought new from Dell and never disassembled before. I'm not sure if the damage on the GPU die happened after the drop or if it came out of the factory like that. That said short to ground on 3.3V always means dead PCH when the board is on my desk…
PCH caused the battery to pop out and in the process the screws got manged and one of them went and did fatal damage to the PCH because we now the customer *never* opened the back cover.
Hi Graham. Do you have/know by any chance the pinout for the Be Quiet! STRAIGHT POWER 11 750W PC power supply connectors? It is a fully modular one, and I can't even test it without the cables. I'm mainly interested in the 20 and 8 pin motherboard connectors. Thanks.
They're standardized, just google "ATX pinout". If you simply want to turn it on you can do that by shorting pin 15 and 16 together on the 24 pin connector. (Or pin 13 and 14 if it's a 20-pin) As for the 8-pin if it's the one you plug into the motherboard that would be for CPU power and it's called EPS12V, the top row of pins are all 12V and the bottom row is all ground. However do note that the PCIe/GPU connector is also an 8-pin and has a different pinout.
@@oliverer3 No they are not standard ATX plugs. (at the PSU side) That's the catch. It's proptietary and I don't have the original cables. I want to build one, but need the pinout first.
@@worroSfOretsevraH Ah, I see, that's rather rude of them. After some further research it seems pin 20 should be PS_ON and pin 1, 2, 3, 11, 12, 13 are all COM/GND so shorting pin 20 to any of the COM pins should turn it on. Obviously don't take my word for it though. A good way to do a sanity check is with a multimeter, you should measure 5V between PS_ON and COM. Everything else other than 5V standby ( pin 19) should measure close to 0V. If you do want try turning it on by shorting pin 20 to COM/GND and want to be as safe as possible I'd recommend shorting it with a resistor if you have any on hand, anything between 1-10KΩ should do fine. This way even if the 12V rails are magically on somehow and it is the wrong pin the worst thing that could happen is that the resistor gets a little warm.
No, it was a short to ground via the PCH. It's quite clear from the measuring points. "Short to plus" would have seen the first (main) supply inductor also at 0.2ohms.
@@incandescentwithrage You are right, I didn't notice that. The main power rail is common for the most of buck converters (if there is no NVDC topology) so yes, the whole main power should be shorted too. But it's quite strange for the PCH to get shorted without an external cause.
It depends on the failure mode of the PCH. It connects into many places, so a failure can fuse a whole bunch of lines together and short everything out... In this case, it was shorting the 3v rail, but the 3v regulator was cutting out and hadn't exploded - so the main power rail was ok.
I can suggest to inject some electrons at the inductor, with 0.5 Volt. And see with IR camera. A smooth, uniform warming wouldn't be the problem. But a hotspot is.
I agree with other comments, someone has tried to prize the heat sink off and damaged the PCH and just reassembled it, possibly the owner who has not mentioned it to you.
That looks like someone was trying to replace thermal paste, the heatsink was glued to pch, stuck a flathead screwdriver to separate the cooler and chipped the PCH.
...and then didn't replace the thermal paste? That was still the factory paste.
Unbelievable 😂
10:35 the damage was already there/visible with the thermal paste still on it.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I've just rewatched this and at 2:08 it's glaringly obvious that the cable from the DC jack isn't properly plugged into the motherboard. The plug is at an angle. As you said someone has been in before and I'll bet that they disconnected that connector and didn't plug it back in correctly.
Someone could have removed the heat sinks and never replaced the paste, but no way to tell for sure.
That's what I thought.
11:33 Looks like there are scratches on the PCH too.
Youre a dapper young man. Subscribed.
I've seen shit like this when I've gotten refurbished laptops as a replacement for a defective laptop from Dell.
Someone got very unlucky there, sometimes you get away with a tiny chip at the edge of a die. Have seen it before, I guess it all depends.
Suspect someone was curious and had a look inside their laptop, only explanation for that... but why they'd remove the battery and heatsink and reinstall it incorrectly? no clue.
I have the same laptop here at home in the pile of junk laptops. I only bought it for the battery cells I needed and the 2 RAM sticks inside. It was folded in half, broken touchpad and screen,but the goddamn thing still powered on, giving display on an external screen.
please make a series of repair desktop motherboards, i like how u explain
First test you did with the power that cable was not seated correctly my OCD was screaming
Me too !! Sorin does this all the time, and I feel like shouting out loud to him .😅
Not seated well? Can you explain?
The resistance measurement between the SSD power rail and the main 3.3V power rail is sadly inconclusive, it just tells me the resistance to ground of the SSD power rail is 0.6 kΩ, since the main 3.3V rail is fully shorted to ground. Even without a short to ground it wouldn't tell much, there's no reason for the 3.3V SSD high-side switch to have a low resistance across its input and output. (ideally it has high resistance for power savings).
As for the chipped corner on the die, I often see stuff like that, thankfully it doesn't always mean the IC is dead. I have an instance of a Dell mobile workstation that was dropped pretty hard and wasn't POSTing anymore after that. When I disassembled, I saw 3 corners of the discrete GPU damaged, I was sure it would be dead. Disconnected the graphics card and the machine completed POST. Reconnected the graphics card "just to see"… and it was still POSTing. Reassembled everything, turns out the GPU was working perfectly fine even with stress-test. The machine was bought new from Dell and never disassembled before. I'm not sure if the damage on the GPU die happened after the drop or if it came out of the factory like that.
That said short to ground on 3.3V always means dead PCH when the board is on my desk…
PCH caused the battery to pop out and in the process the screws got manged and one of them went and did fatal damage to the PCH because we now the customer *never* opened the back cover.
Please....
Rest In Pieces
Makes me wonder and despair. If someone can't be bothered to fit a battery properly, did they put pressure on the laptop in an attempt to close it.
signal pch 3.3? kbc and charger for minimal power on,Charger-----kbc -- + pch go on Charger to get secondary psu ect in cases
Hi Graham. Do you have/know by any chance the pinout for the Be Quiet! STRAIGHT POWER 11 750W PC power supply connectors?
It is a fully modular one, and I can't even test it without the cables.
I'm mainly interested in the 20 and 8 pin motherboard connectors.
Thanks.
They're standardized, just google "ATX pinout". If you simply want to turn it on you can do that by shorting pin 15 and 16 together on the 24 pin connector. (Or pin 13 and 14 if it's a 20-pin)
As for the 8-pin if it's the one you plug into the motherboard that would be for CPU power and it's called EPS12V, the top row of pins are all 12V and the bottom row is all ground. However do note that the PCIe/GPU connector is also an 8-pin and has a different pinout.
@@oliverer3 No they are not standard ATX plugs. (at the PSU side) That's the catch. It's proptietary and I don't have the original cables. I want to build one, but need the pinout first.
@@worroSfOretsevraH Ah, I see, that's rather rude of them.
After some further research it seems pin 20 should be PS_ON and pin 1, 2, 3, 11, 12, 13 are all COM/GND so shorting pin 20 to any of the COM pins should turn it on.
Obviously don't take my word for it though. A good way to do a sanity check is with a multimeter, you should measure 5V between PS_ON and COM. Everything else other than 5V standby ( pin 19) should measure close to 0V.
If you do want try turning it on by shorting pin 20 to COM/GND and want to be as safe as possible I'd recommend shorting it with a resistor if you have any on hand, anything between 1-10KΩ should do fine. This way even if the 12V rails are magically on somehow and it is the wrong pin the worst thing that could happen is that the resistor gets a little warm.
laptop impact.. on heatsink
Apparently this wasn't short to ground but short to plus and the 19V gone directly to the PCH.
No, it was a short to ground via the PCH.
It's quite clear from the measuring points.
"Short to plus" would have seen the first (main) supply inductor also at 0.2ohms.
@@incandescentwithrage You are right, I didn't notice that. The main power rail is common for the most of buck converters (if there is no NVDC topology) so yes, the whole main power should be shorted too. But it's quite strange for the PCH to get shorted without an external cause.
It depends on the failure mode of the PCH. It connects into many places, so a failure can fuse a whole bunch of lines together and short everything out... In this case, it was shorting the 3v rail, but the 3v regulator was cutting out and hadn't exploded - so the main power rail was ok.
at 7:07 theres a 3 pin component with the code k72 , which i believe is a 2n7002 mosfet , is that a burn hole in it?
also visible a 7:21.. looks very much like a hole
Usually you'd get a crater in the die area, but good eye, maybe.
Hmm. 🤔 mysterious
What is the exact model no. for this laptop?
Well if the battery was misplaced something could have hit it
That cpu is getting a lot of heat from gpu.
I can suggest to inject some electrons at the inductor, with 0.5 Volt. And see with IR camera. A smooth, uniform warming wouldn't be the problem. But a hotspot is.
I agree with other comments, someone has tried to prize the heat sink off and damaged the PCH and just reassembled it, possibly the owner who has not mentioned it to you.
Just replace the CPU
You first ...
@@DraftySatyr i done a hundred of that :)
HP de cacao 4 leptop damenge
Is there a reason that you don't replace the CPU/PCH chip?
They are not available.
I click like before I've watched the video most times now, thanks for your interesting content.
@adamant IT do you still charge the customer for it?
Comment for the algorithm.