Thanks for posting this. I have the same machine but it is branded as Northtech DTM75. I'm not sure what Chinese/Taiwan company is the actual manufacturer. I think it is copied from the Omec 750. The machine does require a lot of set-up and you need to be very patient. On the plus side, it is built like a tank. Thanks again for your set up tips-- very helpful.
I'm ordering this machine this week I guess. I have 752 plywood drawers to do for a project. I have this notion that I will place the largest width drawer side possible in the machine, (about 16 inches?) and then rip them down to size on a table saw with a feeder after the dovetails are cut. Should be able to dovetail three drawers at a time that way with none of that dead space in between where the machine is moving, but not cutting. What do you think? Would it work? Would it save any time?
I think you'll save time running the parts large, but you'll lose it handling and cutting them again. Plus, you're introducing more risk for error. Buy extra tooling, I'm guessing you'll go through two tools doing that many plywood drawers
Thanks for the video, I’m currently in the setup process. Could you please show the orientation of drawer sides and placement as the machine is running?
On your machine does it chip out the piece on the left? The side piece that stands up. Setting mine up and both pieces on right are perfect. The left piece has nothing backing up the edge of the material. The edge closer to center. Thanks running single flute currently.
I make all the drawer sides 1/16 big and size them after machining. I just take material after the top edge. There's nothing you can do about the tear out without having a cnc doing a climb cut in the appropriate places. I've got a video on how I make the drawers as well that might be helpful
That's funny. I just replaced the spindle this morning. Cover above the motor, 4 bolts. Remove that. The motor rides in an eccentric cam to tension the belt. there's a clamp accessible through a notch in the casting you can see from the backside. Loosen the clamp and clock the motor to loosen the belt. Under that first cover is a bug aluminum pulley. There is a set screw at a weird angle, you need to loosen the set screw, to remove the pulley. Double check the motor is clocked to the loosest setting. Pull the spindle, then you can get the new belt in place. Reinstall the big pulley slipping the belt onto it as you drop the pulley into place. Use the fastener that goes in the shafts of the motor, without the washer, so you can hold the motor shaft and spin the pulley and lineup the keyway. Drop in the key, tighten set screw. Tension the belt, (I wouldn't use much), replace covers and tighten the motor clamp. Then start the nightmare of adjusting height and fitment again. 😆
I didn't look for an answer to the Laguna, but was hunting around Cantek's website this morning looking for dovetail tooling, and came across the manual. The adjustment process is in there. I wouldn't over tighten that belt. I don't think the bearings respond well to a large radial load.
My questions and where I am struggling is..... should you be able to take parts that are machined on opposite sides flip them and have them line up flush? Is there a particular starting point measurement from the home position?
If they are machined ultra well, then yes. BUT, I don't even attempt to do that. The bottom edge of my drawer parts are always the bottom, and they won't line up if just flipped to the opposite side. If you flip and rotate, then they will though. That is where the board I made to adjust both of the stops at once comes in to play. You want those centered extremely well so the pin and tail elevation is the same on the two ends of the part. So your home point is basically the center if that makes any sense?
@@KBrogger Thank you for your response. I don't know if I confused you with my question but I believe your answer was what I was looking for. What I meant was when I machine a side and front or back on the right side of the dovetailer I am trying match the alignment of the parts from the left side. Hope that makes sense. Also, where can I find the video of how you build the drawers?
@@KevinAnderson-uj6db I think this works.... This is the video I made of making drawers. th-cam.com/video/iQ1vo_hdKIY/w-d-xo.html If you go to 7:25 in this setup video, there's a pretty good explanation of how to get the fences set. You're never going to get it flawless perfect. There's just too many factors, but you can get it pretty darn good where just a quick swipe of the sander and it is fine.
Hello. Thanks for the Cantek Video. Very helpful. Now for the bottom line: Would you do it again? The except one/type etc. If not, what is your recommendation? WE are NOT a full time, advanced Hobby, maybe very advanced, just don't do it full time. I've got a chance to buy one of these, but ??? Yes, it's for a very reasonable price less than $4K for a lightly used one. Your opinion will count if you share one. Thanks. Nice work. Michael
It's okay. If you've got enough reason and floor space, there's no reason not to. Any other option that is better, is exponentially more expensive. I'd like to have a specific 2 axis cnc built to do this work, but I'm guessing I'd be looking at $80k+ to have something built.
Once setup, it doesn't require much attention. I'd think a couple hundred could be machined in one day? I know I've measured the cycle time, but I don't remember for certain.
Just watched your video. I am debating getting it. I have a manual dovetail now. Would you buy it again, knowing what you know now, or look at other automatic machines?
The only other options I am interested in are way out of my price range. I'd like a dedicated single spindle cnc machine for changing spacing, but that's about it. If I had the time and money for it I'd like to build one. Pure, hardcore production Mareen Johnson has the best machine I think. Last I looked they're $75k if I remember right. You gotta make a lot more drawers than me to justify that. I'd buy one again, but I'd hate figuring out this setup stuff again. That was hard earned knowledge to get the results I wanted.
I did see the Johnson version up at an auction and it still went higher than I wanted to pay. I was doing nested plywood drawers on my CNC, but we still have a need for solid wood drawers. I really appreciate you taking the time to post these videos. I’ve learned a few tricks from them
It does get hot. I've replaced that whole assembly once. I've been meaning to take the old one to a machinist to take it apart and replace the bearings so I've got a spare
Mine got hot then started cooling but still loud as hell, cantek sent another which I'll try today. Took old one apart and the way the spindle is assembled the bottom bearing is starved for grease. Your video really helped me get mine dialed, thank you.
Yes, these machines are a challenge ! Thanks for the dimensions on the setup boards !
Thanks for the video. I currently have a manual Grizzley machine. Some of your tips about fence setup might help me with it.
Thanks for posting this. I have the same machine but it is branded as Northtech DTM75. I'm not sure what Chinese/Taiwan company is the actual manufacturer. I think it is copied from the Omec 750. The machine does require a lot of set-up and you need to be very patient. On the plus side, it is built like a tank. Thanks again for your set up tips-- very helpful.
No problem John, if I helped, I'm glad. There is so little information on this machine out there.
Well that kinda sucks!!!haha I just bought one and haven't received it yet. Hopefully its not bad of a nightmare. Love your shop man!!
Just takes some effort. It's a cheap machine, and it takes a minute to get it dialed
I'm ordering this machine this week I guess. I have 752 plywood drawers to do for a project. I have this notion that I will place the largest width drawer side possible in the machine, (about 16 inches?) and then rip them down to size on a table saw with a feeder after the dovetails are cut. Should be able to dovetail three drawers at a time that way with none of that dead space in between where the machine is moving, but not cutting. What do you think? Would it work? Would it save any time?
I think you'll save time running the parts large, but you'll lose it handling and cutting them again. Plus, you're introducing more risk for error.
Buy extra tooling, I'm guessing you'll go through two tools doing that many plywood drawers
Thanks for the video, I’m currently in the setup process. Could you please show the orientation of drawer sides and placement as the machine is running?
On your machine does it chip out the piece on the left? The side piece that stands up. Setting mine up and both pieces on right are perfect. The left piece has nothing backing up the edge of the material. The edge closer to center. Thanks running single flute currently.
I make all the drawer sides 1/16 big and size them after machining. I just take material after the top edge.
There's nothing you can do about the tear out without having a cnc doing a climb cut in the appropriate places. I've got a video on how I make the drawers as well that might be helpful
Can that machine fit 2 9.5" boards?
Negative. Two 8-1/8" pieces is max. 9-1/2" won't fit the pin spacing either
@@KBrogger Thank you very much!
Enjoyed the video, is there a possibility of sending the CNC Program for making the Stops.
Do you have woodWOP?
Hey, I realize this video is 3 years old but do you know how to replace the belt??
That's funny. I just replaced the spindle this morning. Cover above the motor, 4 bolts. Remove that.
The motor rides in an eccentric cam to tension the belt. there's a clamp accessible through a notch in the casting you can see from the backside. Loosen the clamp and clock the motor to loosen the belt.
Under that first cover is a bug aluminum pulley. There is a set screw at a weird angle, you need to loosen the set screw, to remove the pulley.
Double check the motor is clocked to the loosest setting.
Pull the spindle, then you can get the new belt in place.
Reinstall the big pulley slipping the belt onto it as you drop the pulley into place. Use the fastener that goes in the shafts of the motor, without the washer, so you can hold the motor shaft and spin the pulley and lineup the keyway. Drop in the key, tighten set screw. Tension the belt, (I wouldn't use much), replace covers and tighten the motor clamp.
Then start the nightmare of adjusting height and fitment again. 😆
Thanks for sharing..love seeing how the pro's do things..
I have a Laguna that is very similar. How is the spindle drive belt adjusted?
I didn't look for an answer to the Laguna, but was hunting around Cantek's website this morning looking for dovetail tooling, and came across the manual. The adjustment process is in there. I wouldn't over tighten that belt. I don't think the bearings respond well to a large radial load.
My questions and where I am struggling is..... should you be able to take parts that are machined on opposite sides flip them and have them line up flush? Is there a particular starting point measurement from the home position?
If they are machined ultra well, then yes. BUT, I don't even attempt to do that.
The bottom edge of my drawer parts are always the bottom, and they won't line up if just flipped to the opposite side. If you flip and rotate, then they will though. That is where the board I made to adjust both of the stops at once comes in to play. You want those centered extremely well so the pin and tail elevation is the same on the two ends of the part. So your home point is basically the center if that makes any sense?
I've got another video of how I actually build my drawers that might be helpful too.
@@KBrogger Thank you for your response. I don't know if I confused you with my question but I believe your answer was what I was looking for.
What I meant was when I machine a side and front or back on the right side of the dovetailer I am trying match the alignment of the parts from the left side.
Hope that makes sense.
Also, where can I find the video of how you build the drawers?
@@KevinAnderson-uj6db I think this works.... This is the video I made of making drawers.
th-cam.com/video/iQ1vo_hdKIY/w-d-xo.html
If you go to 7:25 in this setup video, there's a pretty good explanation of how to get the fences set. You're never going to get it flawless perfect. There's just too many factors, but you can get it pretty darn good where just a quick swipe of the sander and it is fine.
Hello. Thanks for the Cantek Video. Very helpful.
Now for the bottom line: Would you do it again? The except one/type etc. If not, what is your recommendation? WE are NOT a full time, advanced Hobby, maybe very advanced, just don't do it full time.
I've got a chance to buy one of these, but ???
Yes, it's for a very reasonable price less than $4K for a lightly used one.
Your opinion will count if you share one.
Thanks. Nice work. Michael
It's okay. If you've got enough reason and floor space, there's no reason not to. Any other option that is better, is exponentially more expensive. I'd like to have a specific 2 axis cnc built to do this work, but I'm guessing I'd be looking at $80k+ to have something built.
Once the battle of the initial set up is done is there a lot of tweaking? How many boxes would you say you can do in an 8 hour shift?
Once setup, it doesn't require much attention. I'd think a couple hundred could be machined in one day? I know I've measured the cycle time, but I don't remember for certain.
Just watched your video. I am debating getting it. I have a manual dovetail now. Would you buy it again, knowing what you know now, or look at other automatic machines?
The only other options I am interested in are way out of my price range. I'd like a dedicated single spindle cnc machine for changing spacing, but that's about it. If I had the time and money for it I'd like to build one.
Pure, hardcore production Mareen Johnson has the best machine I think. Last I looked they're $75k if I remember right. You gotta make a lot more drawers than me to justify that.
I'd buy one again, but I'd hate figuring out this setup stuff again. That was hard earned knowledge to get the results I wanted.
I did see the Johnson version up at an auction and it still went higher than I wanted to pay. I was doing nested plywood drawers on my CNC, but we still have a need for solid wood drawers. I really appreciate you taking the time to post these videos. I’ve learned a few tricks from them
Have you noticed the Quill getting hot as fire or is it just me?
It does get hot. I've replaced that whole assembly once. I've been meaning to take the old one to a machinist to take it apart and replace the bearings so I've got a spare
Mine got hot then started cooling but still loud as hell, cantek sent another which I'll try today. Took old one apart and the way the spindle is assembled the bottom bearing is starved for grease. Your video really helped me get mine dialed, thank you.
RE: ±12:41, I care! Thanks for sharing.
This just saved me from potentially pulling my hair out
Ha! Hope it was helpful. I wish it had been around when I was figuring it all out
So if/when I buy one of these, I'll fly you to CA and pay you to teach me how to set it up!!! ha ha ha
I'm not sure I ever want to go to California ever again....
@@KBrogger I don't blame you, this place is a shithole ;)
@@KBrogger How about to Connecticut . mine is coming tomorrow :))|