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@@marcosantunes302 Cantek

@@Frenchcustomwoodwork As a general rule, all of my base cabinets get a bottom deck. There's some exceptions, but few and far between.

I do run stretchers under all of my drawers front and back. Before I had the cnc, I would often just run the dado all the way front to back on partitions and ends. It's just easier when doing it manually. Now we're cutting and machining all of the box parts on the CNC, and those dados are just the width of the stretchers

Thanks for the reply. That’s a good idea. I’ll have to extend my stretchers in mozaik. It looked like you dadoed your first shelf. Did I see that right. If so do you add a rail in the face frame?

@@Frenchcustomwoodwork Depending on where you are in your knowledge with Mozaik, making stretchers work the way I do can create a lot of problems and it requires modifying the size and shape of a lot of parts ad well as adding a lot of operations

@@WoodGravity Your parts should all be parametric based off your opening width. So when you change the opening width it changes the width of the parts that make up the shelf. The height this one is controlled by the shelf quantities and how it divides up the opening

@@Theuniverseisstrange If the tension on the pins is correct, a clamp isn't necessary. There are advantages to having a drawer clamp though. Squaring being a big one. They also take up floor space, which I don't have enough of. I've almost bought one a few times though.

@@RuTeznMe Add parts and math them into place.

@@KBrogger Yessir, I did the math but cant get them to move when i change the Taper Parameters. Just don't have enough knowledge with the math part yet. Will keep playing with it to try and figure it out.

@RuTeznMe that is all you can do. I wasn't born knowing how to do any of it, and had to teach myself how to manipulate parts. It's made me better for at running the software for it.

@@Jerrys_Adventures You'd still have to sand saw marks off. Risk of chipping. Plus I feel that'd take a long time.

@@KBrogger All those concerns are minimal with a good track saw, like Festool. The MFT table makes it even quicker. Just a suggestion

@@Jerrys_Adventures A good one. Like a Mafell? It would never be my first choice, but if that's what you have to work with

@@KBrogger Yes, the Mafell MT 55 is a great saw. The scoring function is great. Very minimal sanding is needed. Like I stated, it’s just a suggestion. Keep up the great work

@@Jerrys_Adventures Edge Sander is fast, easy to control, and has minimal risks to damaging the product

I don't have anything. It's all parts from 80/20 with exception of of the readouts and some of the stops or spacers that I made out of just bar stock aluminum. It wasn't hard to make. I did have machinist cut a rabbet in the aluminum that is the actual fence part. Then half lapped a piece of UHMW plastic on there

Sticking profile won't affect how the process takes place. Raised panel just added unnecessary time to the video. Panels are power fed through another shaper though. Now we have an automatic coper. I'm still not doing the sticking and sizing on a moulder. I just don't have the floor space for it.

@@KBrogger Thanks for the responce. Im an 89 year old retired home builder. My son has a 4000 Sq ft cabinet shop here in Florida. He also has a Striebig saw, but an older version than yours. He uses a straight line saw also and has 2 shapers, both with power feeds. My concern is the safety factor, especially with the shapers. He has a jig he uses for the arched tops, but there is lots of exposure to the cutters while using it. I have been trying to convince him to get a dedicated door machine primarily for the safety factor. Do you always use the electric palm sanders? or do you mostly use air ?

@@ernieforrest7218 Arched doors are a hassle. Point to point arches, you can power feed those through with a bearing with little risk. Unless the rails are really tiny. Cathedral arch, then you're pretty much stuck running them with a fixture and a jig. Not my favorite. I have no experience with any of the dedicated machinery like that. It doesn't really fit our needs, so I really haven't looked into them. If we did more arched door stuff, I'd probably be putting vacuum cups on the cnc and milling everything with a parametric program. Not my favorite approach eiterh. That's kind of an expensive approach, but we'd need the output to justify the capital cost of a dedicated machine like that eating up floor space. In the last 20 years, I bet I haven't done more than 20 arched doors. And some of the other weird arched stuff we've done has been so unique, that a specific machine like that, it would have been outside of it's operating envelope.

Exactly. cubberd cubberd cubberd

There's another video on my channel explaining it

It's just UHMW same thickness as the plate. Cut a dado in the plate and the plastic making a half lap. Drill and tap the aluminum and bolt the plastic down. Run it across the jointer to make it straight. Or at least straight enough for this kind of work.

I appreciate that. There's good content out there, but it's few and far between when it comes to woodworking unfortunately. There's a lot out there to be learned from one another on how to become more effective, more efficient, and more profitable. I should redo this video too. Our door building strategy hasn't changed much, but we do have some widgets now that have made it easier to make a better product faster. Most of it is the same, but some changes and improvements.

That's funny. I just replaced the spindle this morning. Cover above the motor, 4 bolts. Remove that. The motor rides in an eccentric cam to tension the belt. there's a clamp accessible through a notch in the casting you can see from the backside. Loosen the clamp and clock the motor to loosen the belt. Under that first cover is a bug aluminum pulley. There is a set screw at a weird angle, you need to loosen the set screw, to remove the pulley. Double check the motor is clocked to the loosest setting. Pull the spindle, then you can get the new belt in place. Reinstall the big pulley slipping the belt onto it as you drop the pulley into place. Use the fastener that goes in the shafts of the motor, without the washer, so you can hold the motor shaft and spin the pulley and lineup the keyway. Drop in the key, tighten set screw. Tension the belt, (I wouldn't use much), replace covers and tighten the motor clamp. Then start the nightmare of adjusting height and fitment again. 😆

Do you have woodWOP?

That was a Whirlwind. It's been replaced with a Northfield and a Razorgage

I'm not a garage TH-cam guy. I make a living being a professional cabinet maker. I'm going to do everything the most effective, efficient, and productive way I know how until somebody shows me something better.

@@KBrogger I live by the same philosophy, only with about $200,000 less in equipment 😂. If you uploaded consistently I bet you’d do well.

@@peterjohnjoseph I never know what to video. I see things people struggling with, like this, and I'll make a quick video. But to me the content is soooo dry

Man that’s a stunning cabinet! Be awesome to see something like this start to finish with a video! 🤘🏻👊🏻🔥.

Definitely

I think you'll save time running the parts large, but you'll lose it handling and cutting them again. Plus, you're introducing more risk for error. Buy extra tooling, I'm guessing you'll go through two tools doing that many plywood drawers

They work. I don't think they could really be improved. Anything that changes just makes one thing better and another worse.

20hp Murphy Rodgers outside for most of the shop, the cnc is on it's own separate cyclone

Spacers for openings

100g. Uneven in what way?

@@KBrogger When sanding end grain and edge grain on the top and bottom of rail & stile doors, do you ever get an uneven edge afterwards, since the end grain is harder than the edge grain? Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 No, it knocks it flat

@@KBrogger Okay, sounds like it’s a non issue then. You build your cabinet doors to pretty much the finish dimensions and just use the edge sander to clean up edges? So your not pushing into the sanding belt very aggressively, correct? Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 Doors are all built .020" oversized. So we're removing material, but not a huge amount

It is strange that there isn't much out there for commercially available products. I'm curious how to make this simpler. Simple is better.

Coping sleds are another thing that's hard to find. I ordered one a company makes in Illinois. Should be coming today. It's the sh-2 for those that are curious.

@@FussyEntertainment I've had good luck with the Copecrafter sled. I'm not using one anymore. I bought a automatic coper. That thing is awesome. I should've gotten one a long time ago

@@FussyEntertainment www.relcuttools.com/copecrafter.shtml

I make all the drawer sides 1/16 big and size them after machining. I just take material after the top edge. There's nothing you can do about the tear out without having a cnc doing a climb cut in the appropriate places. I've got a video on how I make the drawers as well that might be helpful

Negative. Two 8-1/8" pieces is max. 9-1/2" won't fit the pin spacing either

@@KBrogger Thank you very much!

If they are machined ultra well, then yes. BUT, I don't even attempt to do that. The bottom edge of my drawer parts are always the bottom, and they won't line up if just flipped to the opposite side. If you flip and rotate, then they will though. That is where the board I made to adjust both of the stops at once comes in to play. You want those centered extremely well so the pin and tail elevation is the same on the two ends of the part. So your home point is basically the center if that makes any sense?

I've got another video of how I actually build my drawers that might be helpful too.

@@KBrogger Thank you for your response. I don't know if I confused you with my question but I believe your answer was what I was looking for. What I meant was when I machine a side and front or back on the right side of the dovetailer I am trying match the alignment of the parts from the left side. Hope that makes sense. Also, where can I find the video of how you build the drawers?

@@KevinAnderson-uj6db I think this works.... This is the video I made of making drawers. th-cam.com/video/iQ1vo_hdKIY/w-d-xo.html If you go to 7:25 in this setup video, there's a pretty good explanation of how to get the fences set. You're never going to get it flawless perfect. There's just too many factors, but you can get it pretty darn good where just a quick swipe of the sander and it is fine.

Pre drill the drawer box, but we don't pre drill the drawer front. Using a Deerwood screw. I think it's called "Ultimate"

Hello

The saw is accurate enough. The wood isn't though

@@KBrogger thanks for the quick reply! I know it will be a leap up from hand ripping then planning to width. Just don't want to over-expect what it will do

@@florycustomwoodworking8330 The problem is when you release the tension in the material, it can pull it one way or another. So it's accurate, right up until it's not

I didn't look for an answer to the Laguna, but was hunting around Cantek's website this morning looking for dovetail tooling, and came across the manual. The adjustment process is in there. I wouldn't over tighten that belt. I don't think the bearings respond well to a large radial load.

I hear you on the sanity part. Mine is pretty soft. If I'm not in a good mood/pissed off, she senses that and gets all weird. So I've learned to further suppress my feelings to keep the one more person in my life content. LOL

Installers are in short supply around here. I don't have enough work to keep an installer busy full time though

@@KBrogger I'm gonna give your shop a call, maybe we can chat, I'll send some links to my work :)

@@lostinadream1866 Sounds good

Rift sawn white oak is over $200/sheet. :(

@@KBrogger That's if you can get it!

@@chrisgardner3606 No kidding. It's a bizarre world right now.