An excellent start to unwinding for the weekend 👍 I'm a very long way from even thinking about trying this myself but it is really enjoyable to watch you work and I'll be reading/watching those links over the weekend.
Have you considered doing an edge golfing video with foil? I am working on a test project and the head and tail are taking the foil fine, however the rounded Fore edge is flaking off. Getting proper heat into the space without damaging the foil has also been an exercise in frustration. Thanks for all the work you do! It is appreciated.
The edge golfing confused me a bit:) At first I thought you might mean goffering, but realised it was autocorrect. No, never used foil on an edge. Yes, Peter Verheyen has talked a bit about this on his blog. I have a friend that has one of those heated rollers and I've been meaning to borrow and try. I have heard it doesn't work as well as expected and the answer seems to be a special foil and maybe PVA size.
@@DASBookbinding good catch on my typo…sorry about that. thanks for the feedback! I have been experimenting with foil and waffling between staying with foil and moving to gold or white gold. So far my experiments with foil have been a series of frustrations. I am personally not a fan of the look of gold and prefer silver or white gold. What materials do you use for edge gilding?
Just wondering why you don’t use a traditional squirrel hair gilders brush for transferring the gold leaf. It seems like that may be a little less complicated. Thanks for sharing.
The idea of the series to demonstrate the different options. I used the hair tips in the last gilding video. I tried not to bias the video by saying what my preferred methods are, but hair tips are what I normally use. Except for rounded fore-edges, where I don't have enough hair tips, and I use paper tips. But really, paper, hair tips, and these frames are all about the same to use. They all need cleaning occasionally and all can be damaged if you're not careful with them. Paper you can just throw away. DAS
I'll do a little video on making the gilding frame, but not presses. I made a lot of presses in my younger days and not one of them functioned as well as a professionally made press. And looking back, I don't think I saved much money, and it cost me a lot of time which I wish I'd put into bookbinding instead. I know everyone doesn't have easy access to professionally made tools. There are a few videos on this out there. The only thing I'd recommend is to avoid nipping presses that use 4 wing nuts at the corners. They are impossible and frustrating to use. DAS
@@HistoriaenCeluloide Now you have me thinking about it... Do you mean for nipping, or like the finishing press, which I use all the time just to hold a book for things like spine lining? There is a design for a home-made nipping type press that I think is rather clever. It's in a few books and was commonly used in school in the mid-20th century. I might have to do a video on making that. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Hard agree on the four wing but nipping press. My first press was such a design, made from melamine IKEA shelf material. I wasnt great at pressing because there was no pressure in the centre and the platterns would warp down at the corners where the nuts were. I'm very glad for the proper nipping press I made with my dads help (he's a machinist). I still keep the wing nut press around but dont use it for pressing, more as an ersatz finishing press or work holding device for sewing endbands etc sometimes.
I've been watching your videos on coloring and gilding edges and I wondered if you could use mica powders the same way you use graphite. I am a soap maker and have any number of colors of mica that would make for some really pretty edges, but I don't know where to even begin in trying to get the color to stick. I've tried to look up and see if anyone has used micas for this, but so far I can find nothing. I was going to try and get some graphite for the shiny, black/silver color, but can only find it in large quantities.
Hello - Peter from Bobbins and Bindings Paris here. Thanks for another great video. For edge giding I use both bristol card tips or professional hair tips but am interested in trying the frames you show. Could you say more about the silk you have used in the making of yours? I'm wondering what i might be able to get hold of that would be suitable. It was fabulous to see the archive photos - thanks for that too. Regards Peter
Peter, wonderful to hear from you. Yes, I couldn't remember the name of the silk when I was making the video and forget to go back to my records to look it up. It's organza. It was difficult finding genuine silk organza in Australia. Most of it is synthetic, which wouldn't like being cleaned with hydrocarbons. Yes, my preferred tool is hair tips, but I use paper tips for fore-edges, because I don't have enough hair tips for that. There isn't much of a difference between them except price. What do you use for size? I think my preferred size at present is gelatine. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Hi Darryn! Thanks for your quick repsonse! Nice to hear back :-) I have the same problem with having two brushes often not long enough for foredge! So I use card too. I find that it is easier to get a good totally flat pick up with the brushes and of course it is useful to be able to see through the bristles what is happening. That is also why i'm interested in trying the frame. I have the 18th C Dudant boo in which a gilders frame is shown that is just edges with no netting - I keep meaning to have a go at that too one day! I like you use all the different methods at different times but generally use gelatine just because it is so very convenient. I'm not good at planning ahead and never get the egg white done the day before - I find it quite reliable too. I haven't yet used PVA (EVA) but should try that too one of these days. I have recently started using the gold reccomended by Trevor Lloyd (double gold) and that has made a huge difference to the quality of finish. It isn't really much more expensive. I'm quite particular about the colour I use too and like a rich warm 'old gold' and am not keen on the rather cold 'Citron' that is very popular here in France. IKeep up the good work! :-) Regards - Peter (Bobbins and Bindings
I make Fore-edge paintings on books and have been watching your videos to try my hand at guilding. I want to be able to paint a hidden image by fanning a book. Is it better to guild and then fan the pages to paint or to finish the image and then add the gold to the edges? Also, perhaps I didnt understand it well, but can I ask what the bole is for? Is it just for the colour? As I am unable to source them where I am, are there any alternatives to the bole and burnisher used in the video? Your videos are very informative and I learn something everytime I rewatch. Looking forward to hearing from you.
I think the gilding is always done after painting. You don't always need bole. Some softer papers you do need it to fill the pores in the paper. I think it is a combination of colour and sealing the end of the cellulose fibres and giving a surface that can be burnished. For a cooler colour to the gold, graphite is good. So graphite is an alternative. I think any raw pigment would work. Just needs to be really fine. For a burnisher I've seen people use polished agate pebbles and the side of a wide glazed ceramic bowl. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding What a coincidence, I tried graphite under gold leaf after seeing that in another of your videos. It worked well to hold the gold leaf. But I still need to master my sizing consistency. Although the pages open, they remain tacky for days after removing from the press. Thank you very much for writing back, I will look into these burnishing alternatives too.
@@lisajarvis3820 Lisa, If you do try them I'd be interested to hear how it goes. It's not obvious to me that they would be easier to hold, but if they are I'd really like to know. Different options for hand strength and dexterity issues is something I try and help people with. Happy binding! Darryn
I use the Goldilocks scale to measure pressure. I find one Goldilocks to be perfect. Seriously, you just have to develop a feel for it. If you use too much pressure you end up with burnishing marks that can't be worked out by going over it. Not enough and it will not reach its maximum potential shine. Type of paper will require different pressure too.
The most common method was to use pieces of gold leaf that just went to the centre of the round and apply them from both sides. This reduces the curvature the gold has to deal with. There is a much less common method using a frame with thread stretched between adjustable arms, and the gold is picked up on the thread and it drapes down and the drape is adjusted to match the curve of the round. This takes a very steady hand! I've been practicing this and I made a video for my Patreons of my very first attempt that sort of worked. I've had a few go better since then, but not good enough to do a video for TH-cam. th-cam.com/video/cG0xf72jHi8/w-d-xo.html
I'm sorry, but the question makes me smile from ear to ear. Archival is such a poorly defined term and even more poorly used. It's essentially become advertising. But to take your question seriously, I only use high quality materials in my work. The only thing that could harm the book is the size, and I use conservation grade EVA. But conservation grade could be viewed as marketing too:) Sealing the edges of books does reduce moisture getting into it and dust settling on the head is easier to remove. The technique has been used for hundreds of years and is generally considered good for books.
hi! Is there a more basic way to pick up the gold leaf rather than using the frame you made or a squirrel hair brush? Also, if one gets burnishing marks on the bole-coated edge in the beginning how does it affect the overall gilding?
@@DASBookbinding sorry to be bothering you again but what are some alternate ways I could burnish the edges without an Agate Burnisher? I can't find it where I live
@@shandanakhalid2904 Anything hard and smooth. I know someone who bought polished quartz pebbles. I've seen someone use the gentle curved side of a ceramic bowl. I think the large polished pebble is the best idea. Good luck! DAS
Give me an advice, please! I'm making a red velvet cover notebook and the cover seems to be missing something, what should I add to this cover? A closure, a decoration... ? If it's a closure, what should it look like? I don't know!
Yes, but completely different processes, and the results look very different too. Most (almost all) gilt edges done today are done with heat activated foil. There are a number of makers of rollers that apply the foil. I'll make a video on this some time in the future. But probably not for at least 6 months. DAS
Perhaps you’ve addressed this and I missed it - how on god’s green earth do you guild the curved, right edge of text block? The scraping and sanding seems impossible. Or are you supposed to guild all the edges before you round over the spine? All your videos just show you working the top / bottom 😅
Yep. The rounded fore-edge is really hard to get right. You can use curved scrapers. I usually just use sandpaper rolled on dowel. There are a few (or maybe 2) different ways to put the gold on. I have taken some video of it but I made a bit of a mess of putting the gold down. I surprisingly managed to patch it up okay. I wasn't happy with it for a TH-cam video but did share it on Patreon. Once I get back to work I'll hopefully get a more successful edge to share on YT. Now, how to do rounded corners I'm yet to work out and it seems no one ever wrote down how it was done.
I just love watching gilding videos…just mesmerising. Thank you so much for this beautiful video!
An excellent start to unwinding for the weekend 👍
I'm a very long way from even thinking about trying this myself but it is really enjoyable to watch you work and I'll be reading/watching those links over the weekend.
I doubt I’ll ever do this myself, but it's always a pleasure watching you show a technique. Have a great weekend!
Love the use of Pyrex glassware! A man after my own heart 👍.
Your videos has inspired me a lot. Thank you for your divine work.
Χαίρε συνάδελφε, εύγε.
Hi! DAS
These videos are amazing!
I am trying this right now with silver leaf. It's not easy, but I get the feeling that I'll get the hang of it pretty soon.
Have you considered doing an edge golfing video with foil? I am working on a test project and the head and tail are taking the foil fine, however the rounded Fore edge is flaking off. Getting proper heat into the space without damaging the foil has also been an exercise in frustration. Thanks for all the work you do! It is appreciated.
The edge golfing confused me a bit:) At first I thought you might mean goffering, but realised it was autocorrect. No, never used foil on an edge. Yes, Peter Verheyen has talked a bit about this on his blog. I have a friend that has one of those heated rollers and I've been meaning to borrow and try. I have heard it doesn't work as well as expected and the answer seems to be a special foil and maybe PVA size.
@@DASBookbinding good catch on my typo…sorry about that. thanks for the feedback! I have been experimenting with foil and waffling between staying with foil and moving to gold or white gold. So far my experiments with foil have been a series of frustrations. I am personally not a fan of the look of gold and prefer silver or white gold.
What materials do you use for edge gilding?
@@ryannixon1346 I only use gold leaf, 23K. I of course do other edge decorative techniques such as graphite and colours.
Great demonstration - I have mixed results doing this - can be very frustrating.
Everyone does! It can be very frustrating, like that big circular tear. It could have been worse - the patch might not have taken. Darryn
Great video!
Just wondering why you don’t use a traditional squirrel hair gilders brush for transferring the gold leaf. It seems like that may be a little less complicated. Thanks for sharing.
The idea of the series to demonstrate the different options. I used the hair tips in the last gilding video. I tried not to bias the video by saying what my preferred methods are, but hair tips are what I normally use. Except for rounded fore-edges, where I don't have enough hair tips, and I use paper tips. But really, paper, hair tips, and these frames are all about the same to use. They all need cleaning occasionally and all can be damaged if you're not careful with them. Paper you can just throw away. DAS
Relaxing as always. You should make videos about how to 'make' your binding tools, like the book press 🧐
I'll do a little video on making the gilding frame, but not presses. I made a lot of presses in my younger days and not one of them functioned as well as a professionally made press. And looking back, I don't think I saved much money, and it cost me a lot of time which I wish I'd put into bookbinding instead. I know everyone doesn't have easy access to professionally made tools. There are a few videos on this out there. The only thing I'd recommend is to avoid nipping presses that use 4 wing nuts at the corners. They are impossible and frustrating to use. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I see, it's a shame but not even a small one like those that use a couple of screws
@@HistoriaenCeluloide Now you have me thinking about it... Do you mean for nipping, or like the finishing press, which I use all the time just to hold a book for things like spine lining? There is a design for a home-made nipping type press that I think is rather clever. It's in a few books and was commonly used in school in the mid-20th century. I might have to do a video on making that. DAS
@@DASBookbinding the finishing press that appears in many of your videos, did you make it or was bought? :)
@@DASBookbinding Hard agree on the four wing but nipping press. My first press was such a design, made from melamine IKEA shelf material. I wasnt great at pressing because there was no pressure in the centre and the platterns would warp down at the corners where the nuts were. I'm very glad for the proper nipping press I made with my dads help (he's a machinist). I still keep the wing nut press around but dont use it for pressing, more as an ersatz finishing press or work holding device for sewing endbands etc sometimes.
This is gold!
I've been watching your videos on coloring and gilding edges and I wondered if you could use mica powders the same way you use graphite. I am a soap maker and have any number of colors of mica that would make for some really pretty edges, but I don't know where to even begin in trying to get the color to stick. I've tried to look up and see if anyone has used micas for this, but so far I can find nothing. I was going to try and get some graphite for the shiny, black/silver color, but can only find it in large quantities.
Yes, just not too thick. I've seen it used and looks great. DAS
Hello - Peter from Bobbins and Bindings Paris here. Thanks for another great video. For edge giding I use both bristol card tips or professional hair tips but am interested in trying the frames you show. Could you say more about the silk you have used in the making of yours? I'm wondering what i might be able to get hold of that would be suitable. It was fabulous to see the archive photos - thanks for that too. Regards Peter
Peter, wonderful to hear from you. Yes, I couldn't remember the name of the silk when I was making the video and forget to go back to my records to look it up. It's organza. It was difficult finding genuine silk organza in Australia. Most of it is synthetic, which wouldn't like being cleaned with hydrocarbons. Yes, my preferred tool is hair tips, but I use paper tips for fore-edges, because I don't have enough hair tips for that. There isn't much of a difference between them except price. What do you use for size? I think my preferred size at present is gelatine. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Hi Darryn! Thanks for your quick repsonse! Nice to hear back :-) I have the same problem with having two brushes often not long enough for foredge! So I use card too. I find that it is easier to get a good totally flat pick up with the brushes and of course it is useful to be able to see through the bristles what is happening. That is also why i'm interested in trying the frame. I have the 18th C Dudant boo in which a gilders frame is shown that is just edges with no netting - I keep meaning to have a go at that too one day! I like you use all the different methods at different times but generally use gelatine just because it is so very convenient. I'm not good at planning ahead and never get the egg white done the day before - I find it quite reliable too. I haven't yet used PVA (EVA) but should try that too one of these days. I have recently started using the gold reccomended by Trevor Lloyd (double gold) and that has made a huge difference to the quality of finish. It isn't really much more expensive. I'm quite particular about the colour I use too and like a rich warm 'old gold' and am not keen on the rather cold 'Citron' that is very popular here in France. IKeep up the good work! :-) Regards - Peter (Bobbins and Bindings
This was pleasant and interesting; I thought it was going to be about gilding the cover, not the pages -- is that called something else?
In the English speaking bookbinding world, I guess the common way of describing it is gold finishing. DAS
Aha, many thanks, and keep doing what you're doing!
I make Fore-edge paintings on books and have been watching your videos to try my hand at guilding. I want to be able to paint a hidden image by fanning a book. Is it better to guild and then fan the pages to paint or to finish the image and then add the gold to the edges?
Also, perhaps I didnt understand it well, but can I ask what the bole is for? Is it just for the colour?
As I am unable to source them where I am, are there any alternatives to the bole and burnisher used in the video?
Your videos are very informative and I learn something everytime I rewatch. Looking forward to hearing from you.
I think the gilding is always done after painting. You don't always need bole. Some softer papers you do need it to fill the pores in the paper. I think it is a combination of colour and sealing the end of the cellulose fibres and giving a surface that can be burnished. For a cooler colour to the gold, graphite is good. So graphite is an alternative. I think any raw pigment would work. Just needs to be really fine. For a burnisher I've seen people use polished agate pebbles and the side of a wide glazed ceramic bowl. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding What a coincidence, I tried graphite under gold leaf after seeing that in another of your videos. It worked well to hold the gold leaf. But I still need to master my sizing consistency. Although the pages open, they remain tacky for days after removing from the press. Thank you very much for writing back, I will look into these burnishing alternatives too.
What 😲~I have GOT to make some gilding frames ~ so much easier to do gilding ~ thank you for this fantastic tip!
Not sure if they are easier. Paper and hair tips work really well too. But it's a bit of history. Just in case you need to gild 3 books at once:) DAS
@@DASBookbinding I’m disabled with two forms of arthritis which I was born with ~ so for me it would be easier!!
@@lisajarvis3820 Lisa, If you do try them I'd be interested to hear how it goes. It's not obvious to me that they would be easier to hold, but if they are I'd really like to know. Different options for hand strength and dexterity issues is something I try and help people with. Happy binding! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding For me it has been a lot easier ~ I have both sets now ~ so depending on how bad my joints are we tell me which method to use !!
Great video, how much pressure do you use when burnishing.
I use the Goldilocks scale to measure pressure. I find one Goldilocks to be perfect. Seriously, you just have to develop a feel for it. If you use too much pressure you end up with burnishing marks that can't be worked out by going over it. Not enough and it will not reach its maximum potential shine. Type of paper will require different pressure too.
Hi, what’s the best technique to gild the rounded fore edge? Thank you for this informative video…
The most common method was to use pieces of gold leaf that just went to the centre of the round and apply them from both sides. This reduces the curvature the gold has to deal with. There is a much less common method using a frame with thread stretched between adjustable arms, and the gold is picked up on the thread and it drapes down and the drape is adjusted to match the curve of the round. This takes a very steady hand!
I've been practicing this and I made a video for my Patreons of my very first attempt that sort of worked. I've had a few go better since then, but not good enough to do a video for TH-cam.
th-cam.com/video/cG0xf72jHi8/w-d-xo.html
This is so beautiful. Is it archival?
I'm sorry, but the question makes me smile from ear to ear. Archival is such a poorly defined term and even more poorly used. It's essentially become advertising. But to take your question seriously, I only use high quality materials in my work. The only thing that could harm the book is the size, and I use conservation grade EVA. But conservation grade could be viewed as marketing too:) Sealing the edges of books does reduce moisture getting into it and dust settling on the head is easier to remove. The technique has been used for hundreds of years and is generally considered good for books.
I wish you lived by me in Wales 🏴 (UK)~ It would be very helpful!!
you wait until the bole is dry? how much you have to wait?
hi! Is there a more basic way to pick up the gold leaf rather than using the frame you made or a squirrel hair brush? Also, if one gets burnishing marks on the bole-coated edge in the beginning how does it affect the overall gilding?
Paper tips as shown in the Lindsay method video. The burnishing marks will show through. But that happens:)
@@DASBookbinding sorry to be bothering you again but what are some alternate ways I could burnish the edges without an Agate Burnisher? I can't find it where I live
@@shandanakhalid2904 Anything hard and smooth. I know someone who bought polished quartz pebbles. I've seen someone use the gentle curved side of a ceramic bowl. I think the large polished pebble is the best idea. Good luck! DAS
Give me an advice, please! I'm making a red velvet cover notebook and the cover seems to be missing something, what should I add to this cover? A closure, a decoration... ? If it's a closure, what should it look like? I don't know!
Not a fan of closures unless it's a genuine model of a medieval book. Maybe inset a nice paper label. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you so much!
Can imitation gold leaf or foil be used to gild edges?
Yes, but completely different processes, and the results look very different too. Most (almost all) gilt edges done today are done with heat activated foil. There are a number of makers of rollers that apply the foil. I'll make a video on this some time in the future. But probably not for at least 6 months. DAS
My book have 100 pages not included the double endpapers and are A4 size!! They are Diaries ( not the ones with dates and days in them)!!
Perhaps you’ve addressed this and I missed it - how on god’s green earth do you guild the curved, right edge of text block? The scraping and sanding seems impossible. Or are you supposed to guild all the edges before you round over the spine? All your videos just show you working the top / bottom 😅
Yep. The rounded fore-edge is really hard to get right. You can use curved scrapers. I usually just use sandpaper rolled on dowel. There are a few (or maybe 2) different ways to put the gold on. I have taken some video of it but I made a bit of a mess of putting the gold down. I surprisingly managed to patch it up okay. I wasn't happy with it for a TH-cam video but did share it on Patreon. Once I get back to work I'll hopefully get a more successful edge to share on YT. Now, how to do rounded corners I'm yet to work out and it seems no one ever wrote down how it was done.
@@DASBookbinding oh brilliant! Thanks for the response, and looking forward to a video with the secret sauce!
Do you use a specific talc?
Bulk talc I get from a barber supply business. Easiest way to avoid fake talc made from corn starch, which does the opposite of what you want.