Thanks so much AGAIN!!! I have watched this one several times, each time really soaking it in.. along with the other gold edge videos.. I appreciate all your efforts and videos - they are ALL very clear and easy to understand!
It’s funny that you say you’re surprised you talked for 35 minutes straight. As gilding is beyond my skill set at this time, I intended to skip to the end of this video after watching the intro, but ended up watching it from start to finish, and learning a lot, even if I don’t intend on trying it out myself for now. Great video!
I followed your steps and gave it a go. Had some spots where the leaf wrinkled and the gold didn't stick, but otherwise a good start. It's my first attempt at edge gilding. Thanks.
Wow, that's beautiful! Somewhere here I may have a book of gold leaf someone gave me when I was exploring writing icons; if it ever turns up I will keep this video in mind and shop for one of those burnishers.
Great video !!! I love your projects because you always excplain everything very well...I wonder if you could give advice about marbeling the edges of books like they did during Art Nouveau...Thank you and cheerio from Germany :-)
Hello sir! Thank you for the video. I have been practicing gilding my book edges. However I miss the mark when I come to burnishing the gold. I use imitation gold leaf and I have an agate flat tipped burnisher. The beeswax does not melt in my hands. Is there something else I can do to grease the edges before burnishing? 28:25
The beeswax doesn't really melt. It just gets soft enough that a small amount transfers to your hand which you transfer to your thumb. The idea is to avoid putting too much on. It is the slightest of coating. It is hardly noticeable. Try it on some paper. It might make the paper it a bit shinier, but not much. It should be almost unnoticeable. The main thing is that a drop of water should not soak in where the wax was applied. Carnauba wax or even candle wax should work. I know some people use renaissance wax, but it is too soft I think and easy to put too much on. I'm not sure imitation gold leaf will work. Good luck!
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for getting back sir! I tried to rub the beeswax with some cotton ear buds and onto a paper. I placed a drop of water in and around it. Now I understand how it works. I tried the same bud to coat the wax lightly into my foil and I'm definitely seeing a big difference. I also think I did not wait long enough for the size to dry. I will practice this more. To my surprise, like you had suggested in the video, the dog ear burnisher worked really well for me. However I see some foil residue on my burnisher once I am done. Is this alright?
I like your film. I do practice edge gilding now. but I always have a crack problem between pieces of gold leaf. (i used starch paste and egg size.) it's not easy to get a good result.
I get cracks regularly. Most I can patch. I hate when there is a bit of colour difference in the overlap. I've done lots of average edges and a few really good ones. Good luck to both of us! Darryn
Finishing is such a complex and specialised subject, and one I do not feel I'm an expert at, that I probably won't. There are some commercially available videos that are excellent, such as the ones by Trevor Lloyd and GoBW video by Stuart Brockman, that I could never do better at.
Thank you, you're a great teacher. I've be asked to gild a book so your videos are of great help. I gild frames, we use rabbit skin glue in the gilding water, bole etc. Any reason it's not used here? I'm going to start with the gelatin, then have a go with the starch. I'll give rsg a go as well, because I like testing things out. I think it may not be used because of staining.
Nice to hear from you. I believe in the large commercial binderies pre war it was common for the gilders to mix some hide glue from the big glue pots with water to make the size. Very few binders now use protein adhesive - whether it's hide glue or rabbit skin glue. Gelatine is used a bit in conservation and it's very easily mixed up and the famous binder Jen Lindsay used it. It is my favourite size for edge gilding. I think it is more forgiving. I think rsg will work well and no reason not to use it if you have it available. The size I haven't tried yet is parchment size. It sounds like work to make and then doesn't last. I wonder what it has going for it. Let me know how rsg goes.
@@DASBookbinding thanks, will let you know how I get on. 😁 I've made parchment glue, and yes it takes ages. Nice glue, very similar to rsg. But no real way of knowing the strength. I make up difference strength glues for the gesso, bole etc. It lasted about the same time as rsg, around a week in the fridge.
Amazing video. I have a question about the beeswax application: my hands are always super cold, so I can't really warm it up too well this way, OR I need to wait longer? What other way would you recommend melting and applying the bees wax? When I make a leather condition for my leather work (centuries old recipe that's amazing), it's a specific combination of caster oil, sweet almond oil, coco butter (or coconut butter), and bees wax. I melt the whole thing in the microwave, kind of how you make paste in the microwave, but this yield is huge. Melting bees wax with a lighter makes it burn/darken. Any other method you'd recommend for very small quantities? Thanks so much from LA! :)
This only requires the slightest amount of wax. Actually melting the wax would put too much on the surface. It just needs to be softened just a bit. I've seen people use hairdryers to slightly warm the wax. All the best, DAS
This might be an Australian vs US English problem, but I don't know what product you mean when you say cotton wool. Is it similar to cotton balls (often used for skin care or removing makeup) or is it something else? Maybe like a cotton gauze for bandages?
I'm not sure what imitation gold is. Gold has some special properties for a metal. It is soft and thus why it can be beaten very very thin. I'm guessing imitation gold has the colour but not the other properties of gold. When you think about the cost per leaf it isn't that expensive - less than $4 per leaf. I can do all 3 edges with 2 or 3 leaves, which is much less than the leather and about the same as the cost of the paper in the book. But you do have to buy a book of it. It's worth it. DAS
Yes, very much so for people wanting to do advanced bookbinding. Great level of detail. Many of the older book you wish they'd provided just a bit more detail. Not in this book:) All the best, Darryn
I know this is an old video but I have a question. I intend on using genuine gold leaf, however - does imitation leaf react the same? Or do you have to use a different method?
There is nothing that works like real gold leaf. Most gild edges are now done with heat activated foil. Completely different process. I will actually do a video on this sometime in the next 6 months.
Hello!! Is it necessary to apply Armenian bole? Can it be replaced with something that does not apply color? What is this product applied for? what is straight paste? is it polishing paste? Thank you very much!!!
No, you don't have to use bole. It is good to use something to close the cells of the paper fibre up. Paste is starch based adhesive. Check out my adhesives videos.
DAS, I have a book by Easton Press... I know they are kind of mass produced, but it has sentimental value... I happens that the gilt on the cover design is turning bronw. Should I retouch it with gold leaf, or let it stay as it is, since the gold color can be different?
Real gold doesn't tarnish. It can get dirty and usually cleans easily with very gently cleaning with water or very mild soap and a Q-tip. Unfortunately yours is almost certainly not real gold and the problem is that the fake gold is tarnishing/oxidising. Restorers will often touch up real gold tooling with shell gold, which is eye-waveringly expensive (because it's ground up gold). I would leave it as it is and accept that every single one of those books will do exactly the same with enough time. It's part of the character of the book. If you did touch up parts with real gold, over time this would show dramatically as the real gold won't change while the remaining untouched areas continue to change. All the best, DAS
@@p.h.freitas6727 It wouldn't hurt real gold. But it isn't real gold on those books. That probably sped up the process. There is a lot of debate about dressing leather on books. It used to be very common. I think most conservators now don't think it's a good idea. The degradation it's often thought to help is actually a biological problem that the dressing won't stop. I think it is more common to use consolidates such as SC6000 and.or Klucel G. But only after the leather shows signs of deterioration. I wouldn't be using the dressing on any more books. Sorry, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding I live in Brazil... its hot and rains a lot. I now see that my cloth bound books which are 50 years or older are in better shape than the leather ones, except if the leather is very high end.
Yep, tough question. This happened to me a lot when I first started doing gilt edges. Once it happened when I forgot to talc the edges. Too much/thick bole can cause this too. Soft paper is difficult too - need to really fill the pores in the paper to get the gold to stick. It seems practice is the most important step.
Most gold I bought is so thin that rubbing it in any way erases it away. I bought some early 1800s books and the gold is thicker and can be worked with. Is there a book binders gold leaf that is thicker than standard gold leaf? All the gold leaf I have bought is so thin its wiped away in any process.
The gold in the 1800 was the same thickness. The size or glaire is the "glue" that sticks the gold, the extremely thin, leaf to the edge of the book or on leather. On leather the attachment is further strengthened by heat when using heated finishing tools. There is a thing called double leaf, but it is really about 10% thicker. Some binders use double leaf for different jobs. Using gold in principle is easy. But in reality there is a reason it takes years to master. It is extremely frustrating to learn for this reason. DAS
It's a standard tub. Tubs have been used like this with laying presses for hundreds of years. The movement is exaggerated by the speeding up for the video. It doesn't move that much.
Please can you tell me what name of tool you used to level your signatures and where I can get hold of one ~ I have been looking for years for a proper tool for this purpose and couldn’t find one ~ please reply to me! Would also like to know about the wooden vice too please!! What is that metal tool you use on your edges to scrape with called please and where can I get one?
I think you mean the card or cabinet scraper. Any woodworking supplier will have one. The word presses are made by Frank Wiesner. www.wiesnerwoodcraft.com
Hi I tried following this even though I didn’t have bole or primer. The gilding didn’t really stick and immediately started flaking off the pages while I tried to unglue them from each other. Would this be because of the lack of primer/bole or because of the gilding adhesive I’m using??
Lack of bole wouldn't cause this. The size does a couple of jobs. It is the thing that sticks the gold to the edge but also introduces moisture to the edge. Especially when starting I had heaps of edges where the gold didn't stick too. You just have to practice. Make sure you don't touch the edge or get any grease on it after smoothing it. That will stop gold sticking. Good luck! DAS
Most gold looking edges these days are applied using hot foil. The most popular way of doing this in a small bindery is with a heated roller. But there are also large industrial machines for doing many books quickly. I'm not sure how you would get the book (presumably held in a press) under the Kiwikprint. I have thought about trying to use a clothes iron. All the best, DAS
I’ve not done it but I don’t see why not. This paper is heavily sized so care is needed in edge prep. Very hard papers like this are more difficult to gild in my experience.
I'd strongly suggest that a worn edge is part of the bible's history; the handprint of all the people who have worshiped with it; and should be retained. To regild the edge it would need to be out of it's binding, edges trimmed, removing some of the margin, and most bibles have rounded corners which are problematic. You can try and retouch small areas of loss with some size and bits of gold. It often works. All the best, Darryn
Great video sir!! Very informative and interesting at the same time. I'd be extremely grateful if I could become a client sir..I'd love to have my Bible gilded..
Jesus is the son of God who died and rose three days later so you can be free, forgiven, healed, delivered, saved, baptized and so much more. Believe in Him as the son of God and you are saved eternally and will live eternally. He's awesome and wants us knowing Him and spending time with Him. Read scripture and learn who He is and how He is. Let Him reveal to you the truth of scripture. Ask anything in Jesus name and He will do it.🔥🙏🙏💕🕊️
What is paste you apply to edge? Like the adhesive that kindergartners like to eat?? With out a actual list of what you are using, I as a restoration bookbinder, do not know what you are even talking about. The tips? looks like thick paper, is there something special about it? So in a demonstration, when you are supposed to be teaching thousands of people, you are okay with mistakes, and you don't bother to tell us how to fix them if we make the same mistake? Geez, some people should not be teachers. I've seen enough at this point to know this is not someone I want to learn from.
I'm sorry I don't know where you are from and your background, but if you don't know what paste is in a bookbinding context you should be not be working on books. Maybe it's a language thing, but paste is starch based adhesive. But if I remember right I use gelatine for the size in this video.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
watching your art process is like being an apprentice of sort 🎨💛
Your videos experience like ASMR + PhD lecture , love from India
I find that your overt teaching is great but the information that I glean from how you do the work is just as valuable.
Cool, thanks. DAS
I really appreciate how thorough you are! Thank you for sharing your learning and skills!
Great video! I was going to ask in the comments in another video if you gild, and behold, here it is. Thank you!
Edge gilding anyway. My gold finishing is fairly average:) DAS
Thanks so much AGAIN!!! I have watched this one several times, each time really soaking it in.. along with the other gold edge videos.. I appreciate all your efforts and videos - they are ALL very clear and easy to understand!
Demystified is right. Next would be nerve racking. Great video.
It’s funny that you say you’re surprised you talked for 35 minutes straight. As gilding is beyond my skill set at this time, I intended to skip to the end of this video after watching the intro, but ended up watching it from start to finish, and learning a lot, even if I don’t intend on trying it out myself for now. Great video!
yes me too!
Realistically I'll never do this...but its just so fascinating to watch!
I followed your steps and gave it a go. Had some spots where the leaf wrinkled and the gold didn't stick, but otherwise a good start. It's my first attempt at edge gilding. Thanks.
Wow, that's beautiful! Somewhere here I may have a book of gold leaf someone gave me when I was exploring writing icons; if it ever turns up I will keep this video in mind and shop for one of those burnishers.
Excellent and thorough video, Darryn!
Thank you kindly! DAS
Darryn,you are a blessing! Thank you!
Fantastic, helpful,detailed demonstration and explanation. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Darryn
Fantastic video!
Great video !!! I love your projects because you always excplain everything very well...I wonder if you could give advice about marbeling the edges of books like they did during Art Nouveau...Thank you and cheerio from Germany :-)
Wish I could, but marbling in general is still a mystery to me. All the best, DAS
Hello sir! Thank you for the video. I have been practicing gilding my book edges. However I miss the mark when I come to burnishing the gold. I use imitation gold leaf and I have an agate flat tipped burnisher. The beeswax does not melt in my hands. Is there something else I can do to grease the edges before burnishing? 28:25
The beeswax doesn't really melt. It just gets soft enough that a small amount transfers to your hand which you transfer to your thumb. The idea is to avoid putting too much on. It is the slightest of coating. It is hardly noticeable. Try it on some paper. It might make the paper it a bit shinier, but not much. It should be almost unnoticeable. The main thing is that a drop of water should not soak in where the wax was applied. Carnauba wax or even candle wax should work. I know some people use renaissance wax, but it is too soft I think and easy to put too much on. I'm not sure imitation gold leaf will work. Good luck!
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for getting back sir! I tried to rub the beeswax with some cotton ear buds and onto a paper. I placed a drop of water in and around it. Now I understand how it works. I tried the same bud to coat the wax lightly into my foil and I'm definitely seeing a big difference. I also think I did not wait long enough for the size to dry. I will practice this more. To my surprise, like you had suggested in the video, the dog ear burnisher worked really well for me. However I see some foil residue on my burnisher once I am done. Is this alright?
This was absolutely fascinating! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Darryn
Huh. I never considered edge gilding to be a protective measure against damage to the pages, but it makes sense.
I like your film. I do practice edge gilding now. but I always have a crack problem between pieces of gold leaf. (i used starch paste and egg size.) it's not easy to get a good result.
I get cracks regularly. Most I can patch. I hate when there is a bit of colour difference in the overlap. I've done lots of average edges and a few really good ones. Good luck to both of us! Darryn
I do this on an industrial scale as a job, gilding 1000s of books an hour, would be good to how to do it by hand.
Your videos are brilliant! Are you going to make a video on decorative gilding on the cover of the book?
Finishing is such a complex and specialised subject, and one I do not feel I'm an expert at, that I probably won't. There are some commercially available videos that are excellent, such as the ones by Trevor Lloyd and GoBW video by Stuart Brockman, that I could never do better at.
Thank you, you're a great teacher. I've be asked to gild a book so your videos are of great help. I gild frames, we use rabbit skin glue in the gilding water, bole etc. Any reason it's not used here? I'm going to start with the gelatin, then have a go with the starch. I'll give rsg a go as well, because I like testing things out. I think it may not be used because of staining.
Nice to hear from you. I believe in the large commercial binderies pre war it was common for the gilders to mix some hide glue from the big glue pots with water to make the size. Very few binders now use protein adhesive - whether it's hide glue or rabbit skin glue. Gelatine is used a bit in conservation and it's very easily mixed up and the famous binder Jen Lindsay used it. It is my favourite size for edge gilding. I think it is more forgiving. I think rsg will work well and no reason not to use it if you have it available. The size I haven't tried yet is parchment size. It sounds like work to make and then doesn't last. I wonder what it has going for it. Let me know how rsg goes.
@@DASBookbinding thanks, will let you know how I get on. 😁
I've made parchment glue, and yes it takes ages. Nice glue, very similar to rsg. But no real way of knowing the strength. I make up difference strength glues for the gesso, bole etc. It lasted about the same time as rsg, around a week in the fridge.
John Mitchell's book, quite ironically, is the plained book I've seen.
Dog tooth burnisher? My mind is boggling!
Amazing video. I have a question about the beeswax application: my hands are always super cold, so I can't really warm it up too well this way, OR I need to wait longer? What other way would you recommend melting and applying the bees wax? When I make a leather condition for my leather work (centuries old recipe that's amazing), it's a specific combination of caster oil, sweet almond oil, coco butter (or coconut butter), and bees wax. I melt the whole thing in the microwave, kind of how you make paste in the microwave, but this yield is huge. Melting bees wax with a lighter makes it burn/darken. Any other method you'd recommend for very small quantities? Thanks so much from LA! :)
This only requires the slightest amount of wax. Actually melting the wax would put too much on the surface. It just needs to be softened just a bit. I've seen people use hairdryers to slightly warm the wax. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Great! Thank you. I’ll give this a go.
This might be an Australian vs US English problem, but I don't know what product you mean when you say cotton wool. Is it similar to cotton balls (often used for skin care or removing makeup) or is it something else? Maybe like a cotton gauze for bandages?
I'll have to watch this again. Have you tried other metal leaf foils (not kitchen foil!). Do they behave the same?
No, they behave very differently. Gold is both easy and hard to use. Easy to use poorly, hard to use very well. DAS
Is this 24k gold or 18k gold?
Excellent video!🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩! Perhaps you can tell me where I can buy the book of PDF book Jen Lindsay "Fine bookbinding"?pleaaaase😍😍😍😍
I don't think there is a pdf available of it. The book itself used to be easy to buy. It seems to be difficult buy now. Sorry. DAS
Which paste would be good for the bole application? Starch or wheat flour paste?
Starch, but flour should be okay. DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you! 🙏🙏🙏
Love the video and explanation. Can you use imitation gold? When I try this process the imitation gold cracks and flakes off. I can’t get it to stick.
I'm not sure what imitation gold is. Gold has some special properties for a metal. It is soft and thus why it can be beaten very very thin. I'm guessing imitation gold has the colour but not the other properties of gold. When you think about the cost per leaf it isn't that expensive - less than $4 per leaf. I can do all 3 edges with 2 or 3 leaves, which is much less than the leather and about the same as the cost of the paper in the book. But you do have to buy a book of it. It's worth it. DAS
Thanks for explaining the process so well - would you recommend the book?
Yes, very much so for people wanting to do advanced bookbinding. Great level of detail. Many of the older book you wish they'd provided just a bit more detail. Not in this book:) All the best, Darryn
The edge scraper you use in the edge preparation process... What is that tool and how does one get one?
It's a woodworking tool called a card scraper or cabinet scraper. Most places that sell hand woodworking tools will have them.
I know this is an old video but I have a question. I intend on using genuine gold leaf, however - does imitation leaf react the same? Or do you have to use a different method?
There is nothing that works like real gold leaf. Most gild edges are now done with heat activated foil. Completely different process. I will actually do a video on this sometime in the next 6 months.
Hello!!
Is it necessary to apply Armenian bole? Can it be replaced with something that does not apply color? What is this product applied for?
what is straight paste? is it polishing paste?
Thank you very much!!!
No, you don't have to use bole. It is good to use something to close the cells of the paper fibre up. Paste is starch based adhesive. Check out my adhesives videos.
DAS, I have a book by Easton Press... I know they are kind of mass produced, but it has sentimental value... I happens that the gilt on the cover design is turning bronw. Should I retouch it with gold leaf, or let it stay as it is, since the gold color can be different?
Real gold doesn't tarnish. It can get dirty and usually cleans easily with very gently cleaning with water or very mild soap and a Q-tip. Unfortunately yours is almost certainly not real gold and the problem is that the fake gold is tarnishing/oxidising. Restorers will often touch up real gold tooling with shell gold, which is eye-waveringly expensive (because it's ground up gold). I would leave it as it is and accept that every single one of those books will do exactly the same with enough time. It's part of the character of the book. If you did touch up parts with real gold, over time this would show dramatically as the real gold won't change while the remaining untouched areas continue to change. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you for taking the time to give me such an elucidative answer.
@@DASBookbinding ahhh one more question please! The change happened after I oiled the leather cover... can oils harm gilt? I used leather conditioner.
@@p.h.freitas6727 It wouldn't hurt real gold. But it isn't real gold on those books. That probably sped up the process. There is a lot of debate about dressing leather on books. It used to be very common. I think most conservators now don't think it's a good idea. The degradation it's often thought to help is actually a biological problem that the dressing won't stop. I think it is more common to use consolidates such as SC6000 and.or Klucel G. But only after the leather shows signs of deterioration. I wouldn't be using the dressing on any more books. Sorry, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding I live in Brazil... its hot and rains a lot. I now see that my cloth bound books which are 50 years or older are in better shape than the leather ones, except if the leather is very high end.
What is the scraper? Will a woodworking card scraper do for that?
It is a woodworking scraper.
What do you recommend when you remove the book and flip the pages, the gold flakes off?
Yep, tough question. This happened to me a lot when I first started doing gilt edges. Once it happened when I forgot to talc the edges. Too much/thick bole can cause this too. Soft paper is difficult too - need to really fill the pores in the paper to get the gold to stick. It seems practice is the most important step.
My work Bible edge gold edge gilding work
Most gold I bought is so thin that rubbing it in any way erases it away. I bought some early 1800s books and the gold is thicker and can be worked with.
Is there a book binders gold leaf that is thicker than standard gold leaf?
All the gold leaf I have bought is so thin its wiped away in any process.
The gold in the 1800 was the same thickness. The size or glaire is the "glue" that sticks the gold, the extremely thin, leaf to the edge of the book or on leather. On leather the attachment is further strengthened by heat when using heated finishing tools. There is a thing called double leaf, but it is really about 10% thicker. Some binders use double leaf for different jobs. Using gold in principle is easy. But in reality there is a reason it takes years to master. It is extremely frustrating to learn for this reason. DAS
Just wondering, you mention paste, or diluted paste. What are the constituents?
Check out my videos on making paste, but it is just wheat starch and water 1:5 by volume and then cooked in some way.
Why allow the book holding device to move? Is there a reason for that, or just as bad base?
It's a standard tub. Tubs have been used like this with laying presses for hundreds of years. The movement is exaggerated by the speeding up for the video. It doesn't move that much.
Please can you tell me what name of tool you used to level your signatures and where I can get hold of one ~ I have been looking for years for a proper tool for this purpose and couldn’t find one ~ please reply to me! Would also like to know about the wooden vice too please!! What is that metal tool you use on your edges to scrape with called please and where can I get one?
I think you mean the card or cabinet scraper. Any woodworking supplier will have one. The word presses are made by Frank Wiesner. www.wiesnerwoodcraft.com
@@DASBookbinding no the wooden tool used to cut the edges please?
@@lisajarvis3820 That is a book plough
www.wiesnerwoodcraft.com
You mentioned cleaning the agate burnisher with a solvent... do you have a recommendation of what kind of solvent to use?
I think I just found out in your second video in the series - lighter fluid.
ethanol, methanol, or IPA work too. But I usually use lighter fluid as I have it with my gilding equipment. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks! Not the beer kind of IPA, I'm presuming. ;-)
@@carriesnyder6834 Isopropyl alcohol
Hi I tried following this even though I didn’t have bole or primer. The gilding didn’t really stick and immediately started flaking off the pages while I tried to unglue them from each other. Would this be because of the lack of primer/bole or because of the gilding adhesive I’m using??
Lack of bole wouldn't cause this. The size does a couple of jobs. It is the thing that sticks the gold to the edge but also introduces moisture to the edge. Especially when starting I had heaps of edges where the gold didn't stick too. You just have to practice. Make sure you don't touch the edge or get any grease on it after smoothing it. That will stop gold sticking. Good luck! DAS
Can this be done on a kwik print using gold ribbon?
Most gold looking edges these days are applied using hot foil. The most popular way of doing this in a small bindery is with a heated roller. But there are also large industrial machines for doing many books quickly. I'm not sure how you would get the book (presumably held in a press) under the Kiwikprint. I have thought about trying to use a clothes iron. All the best, DAS
I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to edge gild coated paper? (The glossy paper often used for art books)
I’ve not done it but I don’t see why not. This paper is heavily sized so care is needed in edge prep. Very hard papers like this are more difficult to gild in my experience.
How can I clean the edges of book , without hurting the cover ? Ans me plx
My preferred method is a stiff bristle brush. But not so stiff it scratches or abrades the edges. A paste brush is good.
It it possible to use this method to regild a Bible/books that have gold edges showing use ??
I'd strongly suggest that a worn edge is part of the bible's history; the handprint of all the people who have worshiped with it; and should be retained. To regild the edge it would need to be out of it's binding, edges trimmed, removing some of the margin, and most bibles have rounded corners which are problematic. You can try and retouch small areas of loss with some size and bits of gold. It often works. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thank You A lot for the advice!
Great video sir!! Very informative and interesting at the same time. I'd be extremely grateful if I could become a client sir..I'd love to have my Bible gilded..
I'm only taking on local work. Even then, bibles are difficult, especially if they have rounded corners. Thanks for checking. DAS
I can't help but notice that your copy of "Fine Bookbinding - A Technical Guide" seems to be very poorly bound 🙂
Ironic isn't it. DAS
What if you're a bookbinder who doesn't have hair? 😊
That's why bookbinders always have cats:)
Jesus is the son of God who died and rose three days later so you can be free, forgiven, healed, delivered, saved, baptized and so much more. Believe in Him as the son of God and you are saved eternally and will live eternally. He's awesome and wants us knowing Him and spending time with Him. Read scripture and learn who He is and how He is. Let Him reveal to you the truth of scripture. Ask anything in Jesus name and He will do it.🔥🙏🙏💕🕊️
Okay what does that have to do with bookbinding?
ارجو الاعتناء بالترجمه فهي سيئه
Sorry. It's a free channel. I can only rely on what TH-cam does. DAS
What is paste you apply to edge? Like the adhesive that kindergartners like to eat?? With out a actual list of what you are using, I as a restoration bookbinder, do not know what you are even talking about.
The tips? looks like thick paper, is there something special about it?
So in a demonstration, when you are supposed to be teaching thousands of people, you are okay with mistakes, and you don't bother to tell us how to fix them if we make the same mistake? Geez, some people should not be teachers. I've seen enough at this point to know this is not someone I want to learn from.
I'm sorry I don't know where you are from and your background, but if you don't know what paste is in a bookbinding context you should be not be working on books. Maybe it's a language thing, but paste is starch based adhesive. But if I remember right I use gelatine for the size in this video.
Oooo, gatekeeping, not a good look. @@DASBookbinding