Some new CEE and HAL content!!! Thank you from the other side of the world for sharing your amazing trade skills, tools, techniques and knowledge. Yay Friday! 🤘🏻🤙🏻
Great work as always. Love the big mill. We've got a Cincinnati #4 vertical here that is an absolute monster. It weighs about 14,000 pounds and originally had a 30hp spindle motor. Its a 1952 model machine that was fully rescraped and had a DRO installed in the late 1990s and then basically sat in storage until I purchased it a few years ago. It's an absolute dream to run. Probably as close as you could get to having a brand new machine from that golden era.
@halheavyduty I'd absolutely agree. I have owned machines both old and new, and if you could ignore the expected wear I'd almost always pick an older one. Problem is most old machines seem to be worn out junk. Very rare to find one like this. This one has a 16x78" table and we've got up to 10" facemills and a few monster boring heads for it. I honestly haven't been able to find the limit of its spindle power or rigidity, it's always a case of it will take as heavy of a cut as the setup will allow
@halheavyduty I couldn't speak highly enough about Cincinnati dial type mills. Myself and another good machinist friend were talking the other day and figure they're probably the best manual mills anyone made. Now when it comes to lathes you sure have me beat lol. We've got one CNC about halfway between your two, and a 560x3000 manual. We manage but could sure use something like the Hulk for some of the jobs we see
@@halheavyduty the next bars gonna be bigger & there will be a next bar. So I bags calling him Johnny. If that need any more explanation I’ll fill in the blanks.😂👍
Nice job getting the feeds speeds sorted looks like she cuts great Still say HALBOY Would have suited it better Tiny just does not sound right but she is named now Still weighting on the test drilling that will be a sight to see for sure Cheers from up North
Hi if you make a y. Block to give rigidity. To the opposite side to the cutting side of the bar with roller bearings to let the bar to go in to the job to increase the depth of the cut.
"TINY", love it, the Rose coolant is a great contrast to machining, possibly reduces eye strain? Possibly needs some tuning weights? I used to work with a guy some 6 feet 8 inches, he was called Tiny. Like the external coolant feed 👍. Nicely done, best regards from the uk 🇬🇧. Thanks for sharing.
Another great bar Matt. Re the chatter, its really hard to get rid of it once it starts but then I'm telling you anything you don't already know. Can I suggest trying a few different chip groove geometries as there are some that reduce tool pressure and you might find one that works well. Hit your crabide suppliers up for some test inserts or better still get them assist with your problem as they will come armed ready to go.That is exactly what I did here in NZ with Seco Tools. Cheers Ian
It’s a fair chunk of metal for sure. Once we got the feeds & speeds right it cut beautifully though @ 4mm DOC, which is quite good considering the length.
next time sit the bar on a coupe of old house bricks it will help a lot with the heat loss as a steel bench will suck the heat out big time keep em coming
“Tiny”……LOL 😅 Another great video as usual. Have always tipped my hat to your warts n all approach, really refreshing in the days of ‘perfect worlds, nothing ever goes tits up’ content creators 👏👏
Cheers bro. Yeah, I don’t hide anything. I find my f@&k ups funny… and as long as they don’t get repeated are the best source of real world learning. Most of what we do now is in relatively uncharted territory (for us at least)… so mistakes will be made.
I love watching your videos just your personality you can really tell you love what you’re doing and you make my day better specifically today were I ruined a part I put over 24 hours of work in I drilled it so I could real it for 12H7 but the 11.8mm drill drilled a 12.3mm hole so that part is garbage now
Thanks for the kind words brother. I always look forward to seeing you in the comments! Yeah. As the old saying goes “there is great honour in the words… back to the drawing board” 🤣
@@halheavyduty yep if the drill wasn’t shit the part would be done but now i get to mill it and grind it again it’s a fun part with a little cnc it’s a cool part but it’s a bummer at the last step of 2 parts it gets a „little out of tolerance“
If you support the head, maybe a roller under. would that stop the initial (first 100mm) vibe issue...or do to sets on your depth pass, by shortening the bit Length from the block to the head/contact point on the first pass , say 25% of cut, then reset to full leng to finish those extra deep bores?
The vibration issue got largely solved when we got the feed / speeds spot on. We were just driving it a bit hard at too slow of a RPM. Nice suggestions though! Love it
The same thing happened on THE BEAST. I had an apprentice do that one and it failed to seal. I figured I’d nail it… but it didn’t want to seal up. I genuinely thought it would. In future, will be just drilling it out. Annoying… but I actually enjoy the process of silver soldering. I find it mesmerisingly relaxing… something much needed after the insane schedule of the last 8 weeks 🤣
@@halheavyduty I haven't done much silver solder, but I prefer the plumbers way with separate rod and flux from the black plastic bottle. That way I know that I have enough flux. 😅 Mark from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Amazing work ! I have a question about the coolant pipe; why do you weld it in place then come back and finish with silver weld ? Wouldn't it be cheaper and faster (or at least not slower) to mig/tig weld it all immediately ?
One ol`timer I used to work with had an idea of filling a cavity inside the boring bar with lead pellets as a bushcraft dampened bar. Give them some room to bounce around and absorb vibrations. Could be similar to a dead blow hammer. Have you considered or experience making a bar like that? Shure they are expensive storebought. He never got to see his idea fulfilled, could be worth a try when you make your next mega borer.
If we build a really (really) big bar, I’m going to experiment for sure. It’d be a fun project… and based off what’s in the pipeline work wise… I suspect I’ll get the chance 🤣
@@halheavyduty My experience is the rough cutting goes well just add on dia on the bar to get it stable. Its when your surface has to be 1.6 or less and small tolerances through 5xdia its getting tricky, with likely resonance in the tool as a result. Btw-You dig out a whole lot out from the stock. Dont you get trouble with ovality on the steadyraces?
Cheers mate. Love me a good shop made tool… and the MEGADRILL project keeps them coming 🤣 We just got the green light on an even BIGGER set of rods.. so watch this space. More upgrades coming for sure
I would have probably just cut the groove deeper and used a banjo fitting with a couple of keepers or a bolt on cover. Lol, our “big older lathe is a 40” LeBlond built around 1975”
Did you know for example Sandvik sells them up to 110 mm diameter? Quite affordable as well. I think the tooling suppliers don't push trepanning as it is bad for tool and insert sales.
Love this work! Question for you - Since Kong, The BEAST, and now Tiny (👍) are bars and not spinning, are you required to braze/solder the whole length? I suppose a gun bore drill, and fittings at the ends are out of the question. Or use a bullnose bit for the slot? My dad and two uncles retired from Mobil Oil with 120 yrs of service between them, so I love seeing big machinery! Thx
Nice! That’s some serious time in the field. What a great accomplishment. The solder was just to plumb them in… so once they’re sealed, no need for any more. They just slide neatly in the holder and get locked down with grub acted. No dramas so far… other than the death of Godzilla in the very first cross slide vid
Matt, being as I am a cheat sorta guy may I say that plain brazing would have done the job just as good as the silver solder and at half the cost. Here in the states SS is about $50.00 per 3 18" sticks, and brazing rod is about $25.00 per 10 18" sticks, I would assume the price difference is about the same in Oz. In enjoy your videos along with Kurtis' over at CEE.👍
Cheers mate. You're not wrong. The entire way we did the big bar was a big of a disaster in the end. If I had a do-over, I'd have just drilled the bloody thing haha.
Holy Sheet Matt! You need to start naming these insane boring bars "The Kaiju Force". A good reference to start with is from "Pacific Rim where they have different classes of Kaiju. Good on you sir! P.S. I greatly appreciate your willingness to own your insanity!! 🙂 Question for you Matt: Have you investigated induction heating for your steel?
Hi Matt, Why is the thru coolant pipe leaking?. I would use your first iteration, and maybe get some beefier schedule tube if breakout is the problem. Best wishes, Mal.
Cheers Mal. Yeah, I’ll just be biting the bullet and drilling future bars all the way through. Was a bit of a rush for this project… It just didn’t seal properly from the start.
Matt, I think Tiny needs a Mutant annular support with more longitudinal purchase at and around the toolpost The Set Screw to toolpost engagement arrangement looks ummm….. out of proportion with the extended range and depth. Another gentleman suggested a mid-steady or travel support Appreciate your videos and work
I would have preferred your suggestion to be honest, but all the welders are flat out building the MEGADRILL bit. We literally done have anything spare for about 6 weeks. It’s full steam ahead… all hands on deck.
@@halheavyduty i'd volunteer but too old and far away. nice welding of the head to the mandrel, steal him, faster too. if you can oxyacetylene weld you're most of the way there (TIG) skill set wise. handy skill. can't wait to see some drilling
Do you come from a bore down under Where chips glow and coolant chunder? Can’t you hear, can’t you hear the chatter? You better run, you better take cover.
It may just be a coincident but I did my apprentice with a machinist named Heath at a saw mill. One of the other fitters there was called Tiny (he was a big bloke). Funny thing is, Heath kind of looked like the guy at 12:39 . I know it's highly unlikely, but if Heath is from north east Vic, tell him I said hi :D
@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 it's a boring bar mate if it hadn't been hollowed out and it was a solid bar with small hole for the fluid it wouldn't of chattered like it did its all about speed and depth of cut the thing your taking about doesn't exist it would also cost 1000s to buy what's the point
@tord9707 no point as it couldn't be done when in fact CCE makes a much bigger and longer one on his channel and doesn't have chatter like this as a sold bar and the way kurt makes it is just about the fact way of doing it
It just didn’t seal properly from the start. I’m guessing the bar wasn’t hot enough. In hindsight… it wasn’t the best way to plumb the bar in all honesty 🤣 You live and learn 👊
Such a monster should be installed not in a tool holder but directly on the machine support using a support holder. I use such a set for boring a diameter of 116mm to a length of 600 mm, and I have no vibrations. My boring bar has the dimensions: diameter 80mm length 1200 mm
You are correct. We are in the process of building a direct toolpost, for both drilling and boring. We have one already for the CNC, but haven’t yet upgraded the hulk. Sounds like you’re doing some good solid work brother 👊👍
Some observations. The clamping interface (4-way toolpost) is the weakest link by a fair margin not to mention the material removed for it to fit. Heat input in any high strength material is to be avoided at all cost. I did not catch the material quality used but hope it's as high tensile strength as possible while still machinable. With long boring bars like these you will be needing extra support in the form of a guiding bushing/ steady rest setup as well as support blocks on the bar so that the bored surface is supporting the bar. This can be various materials. Especially when using additional support the bar alignment is critical. I have learned a ton from the channel of David Wilks, be sure to check him out. It's a great shame he has closed up shop and no one knows what he is up to these days. Oh and did I mention trepanning? ;)
@@halheavyduty Totally. They don't make em like that anymore. It's beyond a bloody shame how Europe is going down the pipes. Wilks is exemplary, unfortunately. On one hand one might say that it is only logical that a business running pre-WW2 machines is doomed but at the same time, a DSG or other A brand lathe is built for eternity and actually will beat any modern machine in these basic heavy operations like trepanning, boring and heavy turning. The comment sections on David's videos are a goldmine as well.
@@halheavyduty If you are looking for the heart of Old England be sure to check out the story of Fred Dibnah. Increbidle character who passed away way too early.
@@halheavyduty One thing BTW is that I have never seen him use a follower rest in OD turning, which is interesting. Follower rests no not seen to be used a lot anyway. In fact I don't think any of the large center lathes at work even have one.
Haha. He’s already got one up on his. Pretty sure his big bar is a shade bigger (125 & 1m long) I built TINY specifically to pair up with our 130mm HTS drill… so we couldn’t go any bigger. Ol Kurtis’ got me beat… For now 🤣
I really don’t understand why the plumbing was such a challenge for leaks. I understand silver soldering and joining parts with large differences in mass. Is the pipe that carries coolant one piece sitting in the channel cut in the round bar ? Why does the pipe that carries liquid need to be soldered along its entire length if it’s a TUBE let into a channel ? I would have thought there would be two connections in/out ? Sorry, but I don’t understand .
Yeah, I should have titled the video “how NOT to plumb your big bar” The original idea was to make sure it sealed properly at the head, which failed. The only option left was to seal the entire length to make sure the entire pipe was sealed in. For the next big bar, I’ll just be drilling it out. Even if it takes more lathe time… it’s way less screwing around.
3:07 i didnt notis that in the beginning the drill was standing still. then when i looked at the flut's they where spinning and then i whend " wait a minut. when did he get live/spinning tools on his lathe" and then your hand came into frame and tighten up the chuck some more xD dont you just love when you have like a giant tool and then have to make/buy a new one and it makes the giant tool look like a toy btw if he calls that bar for "tiny" then i have a 0.95mm full solid carbide boring bar from phorn that he can get ( if shipping isnt to bad that is ) but only if he promoise to name it "big boy"
@@halheavyduty which part ? . also maybe you should also have a spindle that you can put in the tool holder. so you can also drill a hole off center or a channel/slot down the side or if you have to drill a hole in the center with a super tiny drill ( rpm stacking ) so it takes much less time ( just so you hae the option to be able to do it. one of those cheep china spindles should be anouth for testing/learning how to )
About 0.5mm. We did the same with THE BEAST and noticed very minimal deflection. Once we got the feeds and speeds correct, TINY also had minimal deflection.
I dont understand how it leaked? If you used a typical piece of seamless tubing, then soldered the ends, tben how can the middle of the tubing leak? You only need to get the ends soldered well and a couple of tacks to hold the tube in place.
@@halheavyduty in future try lead-tin solder (like plumbers use) it melts approx 200 degrees C and "wets" extremely well to steel, far better for sealing and much less heat, work and mess. I doubt any part of that huge bar would get over 100 degrees C, so the temperature should not be a problem.
What would happen if you drilled a 1 inch hole lengthwise in the boaring bar and filled it with lead for damping vibration energy? I'll bet you would get better results!!! The middle of the bar doesn't contribute much strength in limiting deflection in my opinion.
I’m not sure to be totally honest. It’d probably help. Once we got the feeds & speeds right it cut beautifully though @ 4mm DOC, which is quite good considering the length.
When I found Kurtis's channel I thought he did do the Big stuff. But you out classed Kurtis. I did watch Abom79 until he made bad mistakes. Aussies does it Bigger and Better.
Cheers mate. I’m a big watcher of CEE. He does some great work. He’s very skilled at hydraulics & manual lathe work. I only recently discovered Aboms channel and quite enjoy his stuff too. Like most people checking out YT VIDS for machining, I’m keen to learn new stuff from anyone who knows odd what’s they’re doing 👊👌
@@halheavyduty Make a small area matt black (e.g paint) to measure off that as that's the optimum surface and has an emmisivisty of around 1 which is the default of those thermometers, measure as close as possible to the part as you can as the further away you go the wider the measurement area and the reading is the average of the whole area.
It probably would have. All the welders are tied up for the next 6 weeks flat out building the drill bit sadly. It’s a full on madhouse right now. It got the job done… eventually 🤣
That’s what I was hoping, but the bloody thing wouldn’t seal up. I gambled that it would, but it didn’t. In future I’ll just drill the sucker. Too much mucking around in hindsight (always 20/20 vision… as the saying goes)
Love Austrialian machining videos. You and CEE are great!
Am here waiting for cce
“Not an Engineer” is worth a watch. Very funny yet dude has skills.
@gabriellongworth is he another ausy
@@aarondavies8486 yep
Cheers mate. CEE is bloody fantastic. Love Kurtis’ work
Great Video’s, watching from Chelmsford Essex, UK
👊🙏🇬🇧
I come from a small lathe background and it is always mezmerising to watch such heavy cuts and big chips and that sweet cutting sound of a good cut.
Agreed 100% brother. The sound when it’s “just right” is music to the ears.
Hello matt
Another brilliant video re large bringing bar looking forward to you next video. Stay safe. Kindest regards jim in tipperary
Cheers good sir.
Eccentric turning is always satisfying to watch. That thing is girthy.
It’s a Chonky Boy for sure.
Nice I get to watch your video while i wait for cce to upload to on a Friday brilliant work mate
Nice!
Kurtis & Karen’s vids are always excellent. Nothing like a good does of machining on a Friday 👊
Gday Matt, the colour of that coolant never gets old.
Long live the forbidden pink lemonade
First time I've seen this coolant. The 2nd video I've watcher by these guys, yes, looks a great contrast and easier on the eyes.
Regards John
That eccentric rotation is mesmerizing ❤
😵💫😵💫😵💫
Gosh l really miss this kind'a work!
38 year's at the helm!
I had to retire early due to health problems!
A big hello from Little Rock Arkansas!!
And a big Gday to you good sir!
Some new CEE and HAL content!!! Thank you from the other side of the world for sharing your amazing trade skills, tools, techniques and knowledge. Yay Friday! 🤘🏻🤙🏻
Cheers my friend!
Hey Matt, next time try the Baker-Lock compound to seal up those leaks on the coolant line, quick easy and neat finish.
That’s a bloody great idea! I wish I’d thought of it earlier! Genius. Thank you.
Love the idea of calling that new bar Bruce. 😂. Seeing shop made stuff is always fun.
The gauling on that connection piece was pretty bad too.
💯
Great work as always. Love the big mill.
We've got a Cincinnati #4 vertical here that is an absolute monster. It weighs about 14,000 pounds and originally had a 30hp spindle motor. Its a 1952 model machine that was fully rescraped and had a DRO installed in the late 1990s and then basically sat in storage until I purchased it a few years ago. It's an absolute dream to run. Probably as close as you could get to having a brand new machine from that golden era.
Oh wow! I’d love to find an old machine like that. That’s a bloody powerful bit of gear.
They made machines better back then in my humble opinion.
@halheavyduty I'd absolutely agree. I have owned machines both old and new, and if you could ignore the expected wear I'd almost always pick an older one. Problem is most old machines seem to be worn out junk. Very rare to find one like this.
This one has a 16x78" table and we've got up to 10" facemills and a few monster boring heads for it. I honestly haven't been able to find the limit of its spindle power or rigidity, it's always a case of it will take as heavy of a cut as the setup will allow
Love it! I want one 🤣💯👊
@halheavyduty I couldn't speak highly enough about Cincinnati dial type mills. Myself and another good machinist friend were talking the other day and figure they're probably the best manual mills anyone made.
Now when it comes to lathes you sure have me beat lol. We've got one CNC about halfway between your two, and a 560x3000 manual. We manage but could sure use something like the Hulk for some of the jobs we see
This new boring bar for the Hulk should be named the Bruce Banner
I’m deadset renaming him Bruce. That’s bloody awesome.
Galactus: The Eater of Metals
@@halheavyduty the next bars gonna be bigger & there will be a next bar. So I bags calling him Johnny. If that need any more explanation I’ll fill in the blanks.😂👍
I learnt how to do this in 1973. Still enjoy watching it.
Nice one! Yeah, I suspect the bug never leaves your system…
I think replacing the compound and 4 way tool post with a solid riser bock would help with vibration.
Agreed 💯- it’s def happening
Ok I’m dizzy from the offset boring. Great video.Be Safe!
Me thought I was gonna barf!
Nice job getting the feeds speeds sorted looks like she cuts great
Still say HALBOY Would have suited it better Tiny just does not sound right but she is named now
Still weighting on the test drilling that will be a sight to see for sure
Cheers from up North
Cheers mate! Will do ✌️👊
One of the best channels for BIG tool builds. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Cheers mate! Thanks for the kind feedback, and for sharing.
I love the way you call your little toys..hulk, tiny etal 😂
It’s basically a jewellers lathe 🤣
Yabba dabba doo🎉 Happy days guys, ta for sharing
Cheers mate! Love your work 👊
@@halheavydutyBless you mate, love your work too, scary big shit that 😂
🤣💯✌️
It doesn't look like Tiny wants a steady diet of interrupted roughing, but the finish it produced at the end sure looked nice from here!
He got the job done ✅👊
Nice work! Love the development and innovation! Keep it up!
Cheers Greg!
Hi if you make a y. Block to give rigidity. To the opposite side to the cutting side of the bar with roller bearings to let the bar to go in to the job to increase the depth of the cut.
Greetings from Bahrain 🇧🇭.
I am enjoying watching this wonderful work.
Regards
Khaled
Awesome. Cheers mate!
"TINY", love it, the Rose coolant is a great contrast to machining, possibly reduces eye strain?
Possibly needs some tuning weights?
I used to work with a guy some 6 feet 8 inches, he was called Tiny.
Like the external coolant feed 👍.
Nicely done, best regards from the uk 🇬🇧.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers mate! Yeah wow. 6’8 is bloody huge. I lived with a mate about that size for a while. I’m 6’1 and felt like a dwarf most days 🤣
Good stuff! Thanks for posting!
Cheers mate 👊
Loving the content mate, you are now one of my favourite machining channels on TH-cam
Thanks mate. Appreciate the feedback man & glad you enjoy it.
Hey, that made me dizzy! Never seen concentric drilling before. What a cool optical illusion!
I know right! Oddly hypnotic to watch hey.
Another great bar Matt. Re the chatter, its really hard to get rid of it once it starts but then I'm telling you anything you don't already know. Can I suggest trying a few different chip groove geometries as there are some that reduce tool pressure and you might find one that works well. Hit your crabide suppliers up for some test inserts or better still get them assist with your problem as they will come armed ready to go.That is exactly what I did here in NZ with Seco Tools. Cheers Ian
Interesting you should suggest that Ian. I’d literally just spoken to two of our tool reps on Thursday. Appreciate the comment as always mate 👊
I watch CEE video's quite often, as a matter of fact TH-cam must have connected the 2 of you because of superiority and both of you are at the top 🔝🎩😊
Cheers mate 🙏
Almost need a steady rest for the boring bar. That's a lot of steel hanging out there.
Was thinking the same and conversely just use a shorter bar for the first half
It’s a fair chunk of metal for sure. Once we got the feeds & speeds right it cut beautifully though @ 4mm DOC, which is quite good considering the length.
next time sit the bar on a coupe of old house bricks it will help a lot with the heat loss as a steel bench will suck the heat out big time keep em coming
That’s a bloody good idea. I’ll do that. Thank you. Excellent suggestion mate.
“Tiny”……LOL 😅
Another great video as usual. Have always tipped my hat to your warts n all approach, really refreshing in the days of ‘perfect worlds, nothing ever goes tits up’ content creators 👏👏
Cheers bro. Yeah, I don’t hide anything. I find my f@&k ups funny… and as long as they don’t get repeated are the best source of real world learning.
Most of what we do now is in relatively uncharted territory (for us at least)… so mistakes will be made.
Борода у тебя, мужик, конечно, огонь.
Cheers mate!
I love watching your videos just your personality you can really tell you love what you’re doing and you make my day better specifically today were I ruined a part I put over 24 hours of work in I drilled it so I could real it for 12H7 but the 11.8mm drill drilled a 12.3mm hole so that part is garbage now
Thanks for the kind words brother. I always look forward to seeing you in the comments!
Yeah. As the old saying goes “there is great honour in the words… back to the drawing board” 🤣
@@halheavyduty yep if the drill wasn’t shit the part would be done but now i get to mill it and grind it again it’s a fun part with a little cnc it’s a cool part but it’s a bummer at the last step of 2 parts it gets a „little out of tolerance“
I hear you man. 💯
This is how machines start self-replicating. ;)
💯🤣
If you support the head, maybe a roller under. would that stop the initial (first 100mm) vibe issue...or do to sets on your depth pass, by shortening the bit Length from the block to the head/contact point on the first pass , say 25% of cut, then reset to full leng to finish those extra deep bores?
The vibration issue got largely solved when we got the feed / speeds spot on.
We were just driving it a bit hard at too slow of a RPM.
Nice suggestions though! Love it
Any idea why the pipe leaked?
thanks for the vid.
The same thing happened on THE BEAST. I had an apprentice do that one and it failed to seal.
I figured I’d nail it… but it didn’t want to seal up. I genuinely thought it would.
In future, will be just drilling it out. Annoying… but I actually enjoy the process of silver soldering. I find it mesmerisingly relaxing… something much needed after the insane schedule of the last 8 weeks 🤣
@@halheavyduty I haven't done much silver solder, but I prefer the plumbers way with separate rod and flux from the black plastic bottle. That way I know that I have enough flux. 😅
Mark from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Amazing work ! I have a question about the coolant pipe; why do you weld it in place then come back and finish with silver weld ? Wouldn't it be cheaper and faster (or at least not slower) to mig/tig weld it all immediately ?
It would have for sure. All the welders are flat out building the drill bit ATM.
@@halheavyduty Oh I understand then, thank you for your answer!
No probs at all.
One ol`timer I used to work with had an idea of filling a cavity inside the boring bar with lead pellets as a bushcraft dampened bar. Give them some room to bounce around and absorb vibrations. Could be similar to a dead blow hammer. Have you considered or experience making a bar like that? Shure they are expensive storebought. He never got to see his idea fulfilled, could be worth a try when you make your next mega borer.
If we build a really (really) big bar, I’m going to experiment for sure. It’d be a fun project… and based off what’s in the pipeline work wise… I suspect I’ll get the chance 🤣
@@halheavyduty My experience is the rough cutting goes well just add on dia on the bar to get it stable. Its when your surface has to be 1.6 or less and small tolerances through 5xdia its getting tricky, with likely resonance in the tool as a result. Btw-You dig out a whole lot out from the stock. Dont you get trouble with ovality on the steadyraces?
It seems to be ok. At the very least the billet doesn’t walk in the chuck… which is truly terrifying when it happens on occasion
That's not a boring bar...THIS is a boring bar...I'll see myself out...hehe!
🤣🤣🤣👊
You don't disappoint Thanks Why do you have/need to use silver solder?
Cheers my friend. Great question. All the welders were tied up building the MEGADRILL.
Amazing shop make tools
Cheers mate. Love me a good shop made tool… and the MEGADRILL project keeps them coming 🤣
We just got the green light on an even BIGGER set of rods.. so watch this space.
More upgrades coming for sure
what about in future using a lead based solder for the cooling pipe, not like its under any pressure and removes any risk of destroying tempers?
I think I’ll just bite the bullet and drill the next one fully.
I would have probably just cut the groove deeper and used a banjo fitting with a couple of keepers or a bolt on cover.
Lol, our “big older lathe is a 40” LeBlond built around 1975”
In hindsight your way would have been better 🤣
could you make a steady for the boring bar to support it closer to the beginning of the bore?
Once we got the feeds & speeds right it cut beautifully though @ 4mm DOC, which is quite good considering the length.
Great to see some REALLY heavy duty work 😊 keep it coming
Are you still planning to build a trepanning tool?
Did you know for example Sandvik sells them up to 110 mm diameter? Quite affordable as well. I think the tooling suppliers don't push trepanning as it is bad for tool and insert sales.
Thanks mate! Yes, we definitely are. It’s being designed right now.
@@halheavyduty cool
Love this work!
Question for you - Since Kong, The BEAST, and now Tiny (👍) are bars and not spinning, are you required to braze/solder the whole length? I suppose a gun bore drill, and fittings at the ends are out of the question. Or use a bullnose bit for the slot? My dad and two uncles retired from Mobil Oil with 120 yrs of service between them, so I love seeing big machinery! Thx
Nice! That’s some serious time in the field. What a great accomplishment. The solder was just to plumb them in… so once they’re sealed, no need for any more.
They just slide neatly in the holder and get locked down with grub acted. No dramas so far… other than the death of Godzilla in the very first cross slide vid
Matt, being as I am a cheat sorta guy may I say that plain brazing would have done the job just as good as the silver solder and at half the cost. Here in the states SS is about $50.00 per 3 18" sticks, and brazing rod is about $25.00 per 10 18" sticks, I would assume the price difference is about the same in Oz. In enjoy your videos along with Kurtis' over at CEE.👍
Cheers mate. You're not wrong. The entire way we did the big bar was a big of a disaster in the end. If I had a do-over, I'd have just drilled the bloody thing haha.
Holy Sheet Matt! You need to start naming these insane boring bars "The Kaiju Force". A good reference to start with is from "Pacific Rim where they have different classes of Kaiju. Good on you sir! P.S. I greatly appreciate your willingness to own your insanity!! 🙂 Question for you Matt: Have you investigated induction heating for your steel?
The cross slide holder needs to be called the KAIJU CASTLE 🤣
Hi Matt, Why is the thru coolant pipe leaking?. I would use your first iteration, and maybe get some beefier schedule tube if breakout is the problem. Best wishes, Mal.
Cheers Mal. Yeah, I’ll just be biting the bullet and drilling future bars all the way through. Was a bit of a rush for this project…
It just didn’t seal properly from the start.
Matt,
I think Tiny needs a Mutant annular support with more longitudinal purchase at and around the toolpost
The Set Screw to toolpost engagement arrangement looks ummm….. out of proportion with the extended range and depth.
Another gentleman suggested a mid-steady or travel support
Appreciate your videos and work
Cheers mate, and thanks for the suggestions. Keep em coming 👊
Holy Cow 😊
👊
I'm amazed that the coolant line split on you... the pressure wasn't that high. Well, it won't leak now!
Sealed tight 💯
Not the brightest way to do it… but it was what we had free at the time. I’ll just drill the bloody thing next time 🤣
This is a bar made to let the Hulk absolutely blast through material, so I'd have called it The Smasher...
Because HULK SMASH!!!
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
💯👊🤣
Could you have epoxy the coolant tube in
I’m not sure. Probably worth giving it a go in hindsight.
We have an 84" boring head.
That’s awesome man. I’d love to see a pic of that bad boy. If you get a chance halengineeringaustralia@gmail.com 👊
i don't know all the factors involved but why not just use steel and TIG tack that coolant feed pipe in place?
I would have preferred your suggestion to be honest, but all the welders are flat out building the MEGADRILL bit.
We literally done have anything spare for about 6 weeks. It’s full steam ahead… all hands on deck.
@@halheavyduty i'd volunteer but too old and far away. nice welding of the head to the mandrel, steal him, faster too. if you can oxyacetylene weld you're most of the way there (TIG) skill set wise. handy skill. can't wait to see some drilling
Me too. I just want to see a 20 tonne bit hanging off the back of the rig!
I have a question: Is‘nt there hollow bar stock available that would save you a lot of the hassle, time and material?
You can’t buy 4140 hollow in Australia unfortunately. Man I wish we could…
@@halheavyduty Is there a market for it in Australia and NZ?
I’m honestly not sure. We use a fair bit, but I don’t know about elsewhere. We are pretty niche with what we do
Do you come from a bore down under
Where chips glow and coolant chunder?
Can’t you hear, can’t you hear the chatter?
You better run, you better take cover.
Someone better throw me a Vegemite sandwich
It may just be a coincident but I did my apprentice with a machinist named Heath at a saw mill. One of the other fitters there was called Tiny (he was a big bloke). Funny thing is, Heath kind of looked like the guy at 12:39 . I know it's highly unlikely, but if Heath is from north east Vic, tell him I said hi :D
Might be the same guy. He’s a very skilled machinist and wonderful to work with.
So there's nothing inside to dampen vibration?
What
@@aarondavies8486 If the end was hollow, and it had a weight inside that was supported by a damping material, it would help reduce chatter.
@joejoejoejoejoejoe4391 it's a boring bar mate if it hadn't been hollowed out and it was a solid bar with small hole for the fluid it wouldn't of chattered like it did its all about speed and depth of cut the thing your taking about doesn't exist it would also cost 1000s to buy what's the point
@@aarondavies8486 If it doesnt exist and costs 1000s to buy, it would be straight genius to make it yourself.
@tord9707 no point as it couldn't be done when in fact CCE makes a much bigger and longer one on his channel and doesn't have chatter like this as a sold bar and the way kurt makes it is just about the fact way of doing it
Tiny did its job like a casual/ permanent worker
Speed chatter to slow with Rad on cut tip & like that welding " solid "
Cheers bro!
Why would the coolant piping leak at all?
It just didn’t seal properly from the start. I’m guessing the bar wasn’t hot enough.
In hindsight… it wasn’t the best way to plumb the bar in all honesty 🤣
You live and learn 👊
Such a monster should be installed not in a tool holder but directly on the machine support using a support holder. I use such a set for boring a diameter of 116mm to a length of 600 mm, and I have no vibrations. My boring bar has the dimensions: diameter 80mm length 1200 mm
You are correct. We are in the process of building a direct toolpost, for both drilling and boring.
We have one already for the CNC, but haven’t yet upgraded the hulk.
Sounds like you’re doing some good solid work brother 👊👍
New style of the dnmg insert?
Just the standard CNMG & WNMG
Желательно делать расточную оправку с центральным отверстием. Трубу согнуть сложнее чем пруток.
Interesting. Noted for future builds. Thanks mate!
Some observations. The clamping interface (4-way toolpost) is the weakest link by a fair margin not to mention the material removed for it to fit. Heat input in any high strength material is to be avoided at all cost. I did not catch the material quality used but hope it's as high tensile strength as possible while still machinable. With long boring bars like these you will be needing extra support in the form of a guiding bushing/ steady rest setup as well as support blocks on the bar so that the bored surface is supporting the bar. This can be various materials. Especially when using additional support the bar alignment is critical. I have learned a ton from the channel of David Wilks, be sure to check him out. It's a great shame he has closed up shop and no one knows what he is up to these days. Oh and did I mention trepanning? ;)
Good advice, and yes, it’s a great shame that David no longer produces videos.
He really was (and still is) the OG of Trepanning.
@@halheavyduty Totally. They don't make em like that anymore. It's beyond a bloody shame how Europe is going down the pipes. Wilks is exemplary, unfortunately. On one hand one might say that it is only logical that a business running pre-WW2 machines is doomed but at the same time, a DSG or other A brand lathe is built for eternity and actually will beat any modern machine in these basic heavy operations like trepanning, boring and heavy turning. The comment sections on David's videos are a goldmine as well.
@@halheavyduty If you are looking for the heart of Old England be sure to check out the story of Fred Dibnah. Increbidle character who passed away way too early.
@@halheavyduty One thing BTW is that I have never seen him use a follower rest in OD turning, which is interesting. Follower rests no not seen to be used a lot anyway. In fact I don't think any of the large center lathes at work even have one.
I've heard you mention Cutting Edge Engineering. How about challenging him to make your next big bar? Tiny Jr.
Haha. He’s already got one up on his. Pretty sure his big bar is a shade bigger (125 & 1m long)
I built TINY specifically to pair up with our 130mm HTS drill… so we couldn’t go any bigger.
Ol Kurtis’ got me beat…
For now 🤣
What caused the coolant pipe to leak
It just didn’t seal properly. I was 50/50 on whether it’d work
Nice. Drilling that eccentric hole certainly confused my brain at first.
Cheers mate! Yeah, it was wild to watch when machining it too. The brain struggles 🤣
Im curious, with all the chips are you able to make any money from recycling them?
I think we get a few hundred bucks a tonne. It’s worth doing… especially considering the volume we do 🤣
I really don’t understand why the plumbing was such a challenge for leaks. I understand silver soldering and joining parts with large differences in mass.
Is the pipe that carries coolant one piece sitting in the channel cut in the round bar ?
Why does the pipe that carries liquid need to be soldered along its entire length if it’s a TUBE let into a channel ?
I would have thought there would be two connections in/out ?
Sorry, but I don’t understand .
Yeah, I should have titled the video “how NOT to plumb your big bar”
The original idea was to make sure it sealed properly at the head, which failed. The only option left was to seal the entire length to make sure the entire pipe was sealed in.
For the next big bar, I’ll just be drilling it out. Even if it takes more lathe time… it’s way less screwing around.
I think the 4 way tool post is the weak link now, as far as stability.
It definitely is. Making a direct riser is top of the list for 2025
3:07 i didnt notis that in the beginning the drill was standing still. then when i looked at the flut's they where spinning and then i whend " wait a minut. when did he get live/spinning tools on his lathe" and then your hand came into frame and tighten up the chuck some more xD
dont you just love when you have like a giant tool and then have to make/buy a new one and it makes the giant tool look like a toy
btw if he calls that bar for "tiny" then i have a 0.95mm full solid carbide boring bar from phorn that he can get ( if shipping isnt to bad that is ) but only if he promoise to name it "big boy"
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Love it
@@halheavyduty which part ? . also maybe you should also have a spindle that you can put in the tool holder. so you can also drill a hole off center or a channel/slot down the side or if you have to drill a hole in the center with a super tiny drill ( rpm stacking ) so it takes much less time ( just so you hae the option to be able to do it. one of those cheep china spindles should be anouth for testing/learning how to )
How much above center do you run your huge tiny bar to assist with flex?
About 0.5mm.
We did the same with THE BEAST and noticed very minimal deflection. Once we got the feeds and speeds correct, TINY also had minimal deflection.
I dont understand how it leaked?
If you used a typical piece of seamless tubing, then soldered the ends, tben how can the middle of the tubing leak?
You only need to get the ends soldered well and a couple of tacks to hold the tube in place.
Agreed 100%. That was the plan, however it failed to seal for whatever reason. Very frustrating.
@@halheavyduty in future try lead-tin solder (like plumbers use) it melts approx 200 degrees C and "wets" extremely well to steel, far better for sealing and much less heat, work and mess.
I doubt any part of that huge bar would get over 100 degrees C, so the temperature should not be a problem.
If I ever have to do it again, I’ll definitely do that. Cheers brother
What brands do you using?
Mostly Iscar for turning, and Kennametal for threading
cool 😎
👊
This is like CEE to the max!
Cheers brother. Big fan of Kurtis & Karen’s channel. They’re the gold standard for machining viewing in my opinion. He does some bloody good work.
Ok I gotta ask.. how come that pipe ended up leaking in the first place?
Honest answer… it was a dumb design idea. If I rebuilt it we’d just drill it through.
@ nah it all looks sound this end. I wouldn’t be chucking a parabolic up its arse either. You’re just asking for trouble.
What would happen if you drilled a 1 inch hole lengthwise in the boaring bar and filled it with lead for damping vibration energy? I'll bet you would get better results!!! The middle of the bar doesn't contribute much strength in limiting deflection in my opinion.
I’m not sure to be totally honest. It’d probably help. Once we got the feeds & speeds right it cut beautifully though @ 4mm DOC, which is quite good considering the length.
You should have Tig brazed that pipe in. It would have been a lot easier and a lot cheaper.
In hindsight, I 100% agree with you. On the next bar I’ll be just making an XXL 12mm drill and drilling it out.
Way easier and simpler.
Or, more appropriately for Oz., the "Eric"!
🤣🤣💯
When I found Kurtis's channel I thought he did do the Big stuff. But you out classed Kurtis. I did watch Abom79 until he made bad mistakes. Aussies does it Bigger and Better.
Cheers mate. I’m a big watcher of CEE. He does some great work. He’s very skilled at hydraulics & manual lathe work.
I only recently discovered Aboms channel and quite enjoy his stuff too.
Like most people checking out YT VIDS for machining, I’m keen to learn new stuff from anyone who knows odd what’s they’re doing 👊👌
No worries about losing it if it accidentally falls into the chip tray.
🤣💯
Off centre work always looks odd to me. Like the drill will snap any moment.
It gave me a bit of vertigo to machine… not gonna lie.
Tig weld but not tig braze?
It definitely could have been done better. I’ll just drill the next one…
It’ll take a bit more time, but would save a LOT of mess & fuss.
I wonder if that chatter would warrant wearing a mouthguard like in boxing LOL
We did break a tooth or two on the first trial… so probably 🤣
Next bigger boring bar name couls be a**l destroyer :D
🤣🤣🤣🤣
The Leviathan.....
👊👊
When Tiny starts ti chatter, it is terrifying.
Bouncy bouncy 😬
Too much feed…
not enough speed 🤣
I know you requested a name for ‘Tiny’ and it’s probably too late to change now, but…
Triple ‘B’! Stands for Bloody Big Bar. 😂
Very accurate 🤣💯
An IR thermometer won't give an accurate reading on a shiny surface particularly when the emisivity value is set way out.
Thanks for that. I’m going to check it out further. Any suggestions what we could use for a better reading??
@@halheavyduty Make a small area matt black (e.g paint) to measure off that as that's the optimum surface and has an emmisivisty of around 1 which is the default of those thermometers, measure as close as possible to the part as you can as the further away you go the wider the measurement area and the reading is the average of the whole area.
Thank you very much. I didn’t know that and really appreciate the info. The things you learn… 👊🙏
It would probably have been cheaper if you rather tig weld the cooling pipe instead of silver soldering
It probably would have.
All the welders are tied up for the next 6 weeks flat out building the drill bit sadly. It’s a full on madhouse right now.
It got the job done… eventually 🤣
@@halheavyduty i see Nice work anyway👍
Cheers brother!
I dont understand all the silver soldering. Isnt that a piece of pipe? Why does it need sealing along the lenght? At the head, sure.
That’s what I was hoping, but the bloody thing wouldn’t seal up.
I gambled that it would, but it didn’t. In future I’ll just drill the sucker. Too much mucking around in hindsight (always 20/20 vision… as the saying goes)
👍💪🙂
👊💯
No chatter in that viagra bar. 👏👏🇦🇺
Chonky did alright once we got the feeds & speeds sorted.
If you happen to make any more big tools like this, I submit ahead of time the name, "Sasquatch " for your consideration
I sure hope I get to make the Sasquatch bar.
It’ll be a big hairy beast for sure 🤣
think you should name next john holmes.....
💯🤣