Finish your 3D prints faster! Remove pla lines & smooth 3D prints with this method!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2022
- Thanks for checking out today's video, this new method is another DW game changer!
This will save you a bunch of time all while giving you fantastic finishing results & getting rid of those pla lines!
For specific parts of the tutorial feel free to check out the video index below as well as all materials used in the video.
Big shout out to all my subscribers & viewers, much more content on the way including 3 subscriber giveaways!
I want to thank all of you for subbing & watching, let me know what you think by dropping me a comment & if you liked the video let me know by giving me a thumbs up!
If you like all things 3D printing & more make sure you smash that subscribe button & come along for the ride!
If you used this method make sure to share or tag me on social media
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Products used in video
Bondo filler primer
amzn.to/3G8P2UN
Bondo plastic metal
amzn.to/3Eglfbb
Led eyes for moon knight mask
amzn.to/3hum2wl
Music courtesy of @adaytoremember
Original boba fett video using plastic metal
• How to sand 3D prints|...
Video Index
Intro to video 00:30
The new process & the model 00:55
What is bondo plastic metal & how its different from other fillers & puttys 01:20
The setup for mixing the filler & acetone & tips with plastic metal 02:30
Applying the acetone mixture & safety tips & benefits 04:00
Quick dry time & sanding tips 06:55
After applying primer & inspection & filler primer tips 07:45
Finishing the helmet & some progress shots 09:10
My thoughts on this process & why its works 10:20
Benefits & recapping the process 11:00
Thanks for watching & make sure to subscribe! 11:30
A side-by-side comparison of the spot putty method along with pros and cons it would be pretty cool.
Definitely something I’ll work on for everyone, thanks for the recommendation!
Thank you this looks easy and does a great job. I like that it reinforces it too
Love this. What a great option for when you can’t spray Upol or Featherfill G2 etc.
Might want to clarify that the texture was intentionally added in another step (in case they didn’t watch that video) so they don’t think that’s how this method looks when done. Yea, I know you briefly mention it and yea I know you can see how smooth the smaller section is. But it may help a few people really get it and realize the true value you’re presenting here. Keep it up!
Love this. Watched a few of your videos, and this is great. Simple, materials that are easily available, and a nice riff on processes already well-established. Great stuff. Definitely going to give this a try. Earned a sub. Thanks for the awesome work!
Thanks man! Appreciate the love!
My guy! This is why I keep coming back. The knowledge! Thank you
Thanks buddy glad to help!
So awesome! Thanks for sharing such a cool project!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, man. Starting a big PLA project and this is timely advice. Subscribed!
Thank you! Feel free to reach out if you have questions
Amazing method. Thanks for sharing mate. 👏🏼
No problem!
good idea!
Thanks!
good job - much quicker than the other fill/sanding methods I have seen
Very efficient for sure!
Good stuff my man. Keep it up! And thanks for promoting the PPE. Kids watch this stuff and are usually less careful with safety, so thanks for always reiterating it
Nice to see a comment from you terry. You are a highly respected creator & crutch to many builders. This comment made my day, thank you my friend!
Awesome pro tip!!
Love this man! Great content
Thanks man!
thanks man, good stuff
I love plastic metal I've been using it for awhile and makes filling in the deep stuff and uneven surfaces much better then the red spot putty. I use both of them interchangeably on my builds. I'll have to try thinning it with some acetone and brushing it on...looking forward to it. It's good that plastic metal is getting some recognition now. Great video and explanation Mr. Darkwing thanks for sharing man!
I see you Murphy! Keep it up with that suit & builds, you’re killing it!
You’ll love the brush method! Let me know what you think!
@@Darkwingdad 😆
Chris Bosh Props, I just recently came across your channel and your robocop looks incredible! I also live in Texas (DFW area). Do you ever go to the cons in Dallas/Irving? I used to go but haven't been in years. Hoping to finish up my biker scout and go to a con again soon.
I'm going to have to try this when I work on my Spartan armor, thank you for sharing!
Very efficient process. Let me know how you like it!
Fuck yeah! This is extremely helpful. Im just learning 3d modeling and design for work making custom batteries. I build the batteries and print prototype cases to present them in. Just yesterday i printed a box lid that has too many lines, i was gonna just print a new one and hope for better results but thats like 20 hours of printing, im adding this trick to my bag, thanks dude.
Anytime man!
Nice video very helpful and great background music
Thanks Dan!
I've used bondo for years and never knew plastic metal existed. Right on, thanks bro!
It’s a great product! Unfortunately the price has gone up due to inflation but worth every penny!
This is phenomenal! Thanks for sharing and I’ll have to be sure to remember this when I start working on masks and helmets… 😃
Anytime buddy, if you have questions when you get started just let me know!
Awesome tutorial!
Thank you my friend!
I am using an Anycubic M3 Max, and M3 for the smaller parts. I am designing Star Trek (TOS) The Original Series models in fairly large scales. 1/100 and 1/200 scales. I am saving to buy a Phrozen Mega 8k as I have found out that the LCD is even better than the SLA, and of DPL printing, and the screens last from 10 to 20 times longer despite the double to triple cost of the machine initially.
Also from what I have gathered the LCD can be printed down to .020 with a 92% exposure rating where the SLA is supposed to be around 6 to 10% and the DPL machines is supposed to be about 60%.
They also claim that the LCD is direct so as not to be projected so there should never be issues with the light source being magnified eve microscopically which can affect the scale of the model.
So I know you are discussing the Weed Eater String melting machines here, and I am not trying to step on your toes with the Chem Printing topic.
I am just excited to be getting the results that I am achieving, and my archery company also uses the string melting machines for our custom archery bow brackets and they are quite sufficient for what we use them for.
Here are the first print results for my 3D Printed Romulan Warbird if you are interested to see.
I also like your Information and video's. Great Job. th-cam.com/video/odCnG7_YvJQ/w-d-xo.html
Not really a Star Trek fan but those models look awesome, thanks for sharing!
Great vid, man! I use glazing spot putty a lot but haven't used the plastic metal so I'll have to try it out!
You’ll love it!
@@Darkwingdad it definitely looks promising! I like that it can also add durability to the print. That's so crucial, especially with helmets and fragile armor pieces for costume builds. Thanks for the video and keep doing what you're doing!
I actually was about to try this last night! Decided against it but will try on my next project
You’ll love it!
Great vid. I was wondering if a dump gun used to spray gel coating would work or maybe a fine automotive grav feed sprayer? Working with 3d prints is kinda like working with fiberglass so I just thinking that the same tools and methods may apply. Thanks and keep up the good work.
It could work if recommend a 2mm tip. I use a 2.5 tip when spraying slick sand filler but it’s a little thicker than this. It can 100% be sprayed with the right gun
lo hice y estoy sorprendido de lo util que puede ser
gracias por compartir, me alegro de que te haya funcionado, ¡es un proceso muy eficiente!
Not sure if you've tried this method, but I have had great luck with using UV curable resin for resin printers to smooth my prints. It takes very little product to achieve great results. I usually use a cheap chip brush to apply the resin to the model and then cure it either with sunlight or a UV curing station. Once cured, you can lightly sand and then prime. As with any filling technique, you will need to go back and fix any imperfections or places you missed. Wonder if that stuff could be thinned enough to spray through an airbrush...hmm....:)
Not a fan of the uv resin. I’ve tested it & doesn’t fill in deep defects like a filler, highly toxic, you spray it through an airbrush you better be wearing a full tyvek suit with respirator & goggles. Most of the time it has to be a clean print to get good results which I could use glazing putty on a clean print & get stellar results.I know some people like it but your constantly fighting gravity & for the time it takes I’ll just bust out the hvlp gun & use slick sand. It may serve a role in certain aspects but I’m just not a fan of it, that’s just me though.
wow your video edits getting way better then the first one's. keep sharing these amazing tips
Thanks Daniel! I appreciate the feedback
I am gonna try this on my next helmet
You’ll love the process. Speeds things up a ton with great results!
Really Great stuff:
Thanks!
Wrap some PTFE tape around the threads of the tube before screwing the lid on and it will last loads longer, you can do the same for tubes of superglue also!
I’m sure that will definitely help! The problem is once the o2 gets in it’s trapped & over time it catalyzes. Keeping them cold slows down oxygen molecules & thus will give you longer shelf life. I do the same trick with resin based coatings, keep ‘em in the fridge and they last longer.
Wow this is brilliant
Thanks man! Definitely a time saver
Didn't know that product existed. This could be a quick alternative for those who can't get the ratio of the body filler correctly.
It really is a versatile product, one of my go to’s for sure!
@@Darkwingdad Now, my only problem is to find a warm place for me to get back working on another helmet. It's a bit too cold.
I’ll be trying this method today. I have an Iron Man suit that has four sections that need to be welded together sanded.. 😮 prime and painted. And it’s a antic piece, so I was definitely looking into a faster way to accomplish this.
Let me know how you like it!
Basically, good settings and a good profile for your printer are enough to erase this problem. And for a clean finish, a shot of filler primer and you're 90% done.
Easier said than done for some. So many factors that can affect prints. Even if you think a print is good there’s still layer lines & just filler primer won’t remedy that. You’ll spend so much more time over sanding the model, losing definition & intricate areas will still have pla lines. I’ve already done a video showing how spray ineffective just filler primer is. Filler primer is a step, not the entire process in proper finishing. To each there own
Thanks!
Thanks Jared!
@@Darkwingdad yea man, just thought I give a little back, you've helped me out a ton. Sometimes I think of how crazy it is to have so much information in the palms of our hands. If I was doing this 20 years ago I'd have to hope they have a book about it in the library lol.
nice video DW ..can you make a video on how to make a head cast for resting your helmets on and getting measurements to suit your head please
Yea you just need a how to on sizing everything to your body?
3M uses a similar material without the metallic grit in the Green Acryl body filler. I prefer using it to the red Bondo putty because it shrinks less and reactivates less. That said, it can still soak up your spray paint solvent, so you want a sealer primer or filler primer over it, and it does not sand as smoothly as the plastic metal will, especially if you let the plastic metal cure for a day before sanding.
The acrylic putty is definitely great but pricey, I had a client spray it on a Slimer statue and it worked awesome. Problem with all these is prices just continue to hike. Plastic metal has almost doubled & the green 3m putty is up to like $25, sucks because they are so useful. Thanks for the tips on it!
@@Darkwingdad after 2020 prices for all hobby things went up. Before people would only work and do nothiing. now lots more people have hobbies. They blame it on supply but supply seems to be fine. ive never seen it out of stock
Is that A day to remember in the intro?
Good taste.
You know it!
I love this but I live in the UK and can't get bondo metal plastic do you have any equivalent recommendations?
You can do this with 2 part motip filler, you can’t reactivate it though, closest would be motip putty
I got to try it
💯
Awesome, thanks a ton for sharing this method! Been struggling with auto body bondo myself and got sick real quick with how impossible it is to sand that stuff!
Seems like no matter what it sucks to sand lol dolphin glaze is a bit easier but I’ll tell you this method fills & sands like a dream!
I make stuff we call Rondo it’s a combination of polyester resin and Bondo it’s mixed in so it has a little more liquidy than syrup consistency and it works pretty good and it’s easy to sand
Yea I use slick sand by Evercoat, it’s a sprayable body filler which is basically the same thing. Back in the day I’d mix fiberglass resin with bondo filler & called it a milkshake. Cool idea but sanding it woof
@@Darkwingdad Interesting I’m gonna have to try that I do extremely large 3-D printing and there’s nothing worse than trying to do finish work lucky for me most of the time my Prince come out pretty stellar but there are times that I need to finish it I will have to look that up is that the name brand of it
@@skullcraftcustoms check out my thanos helmet build I use it & explain it in that, if you need the link of the video let me know. Also if you want to talk about the product or anything else email me, message me on telegram or join my discord. Always here to help where I can
I was about to ask if this is body safe.. (i.e rings, something that has skin contact) but with aluminum bits inside it? Probably not... But happy to be wrong
Typically anything like putty,fillers,paints all have solvents in them like acetone,lacquer & methylated solutes. These all require proper ppe like nitrile gloves,respirator etc.
Man I wish we could get Bondo stuff easily here in Australia. This looks like an awesome method and would work really well.
I need to start doing some research for my UK subs I feel awful you guys can’t get this stuff!
@@Darkwingdad You're about 9,500 miles off there, mate; he's an Aussie, and I'm a Pom, but we both have the same problem with Bondo not existing in either of our countries. 😄
If my FDM prints are too fiddly to directly sand, I use a spray putty, although there's far too much wastage spraying directly from the can, so I now decant the stuff and spray it via a cheap 0.5mm airbrush. The prices for a 400ml tin have shot up over the last year or so, and what used to cost £ tree fiddy now costs almost 8 quid! That's what drew me to the video. 👍
I use a hi-cote filler primer if the layer lines are fine or if the object is mostly sanded.
However, if the print doesn't need to be smooth, then my best results when abolishing the lines, and any imperfections, come from using a sprayable mastic leak-sealer. It cures fast, can be painted with any paint, and leaves a really cool-looking, grippy, flexible textured finish that's hugely durable.
I'll try to find more info on the contents of the Bondo 901, and see if I can find a UK or AUS equivalent.
@@Loneman_OG I apologize I am geographically declined lol
Awesome tip, will have to try. What type of acetone did you use? Jim in Keller, Texas!
Hey Jim! I use Klean strip acetone you ca get it at Walmart, Lowe’s etc,
Jim, I'm in South Fort Worth!
@@curejdm427 I’d like to stop by one of these days to check out your techniques. Jim
Clicked for 3d print tips subbed for ADTR lol
Yesssss, I guess the music cuts were to loud for some, but you don’t listen to adtr at 8 you listen to them at 20 lol
Do you think this would work with Astromech domes and the creases?
Subscribed !
Absolutely, I use plastic metal when fixing failed prints & to remove seams
@@Darkwingdad thank you so much for the video and the response 😎
Have you tried filling cracks/gaps with bicarbonate of soda powder, wiping it nice and flush, then dripping on a very runny superglue?
No super glue & sanding is nothing I’d want to get into
Nice. I'm gonna grab that bondo plastic metal whatever. I use a lot of the spot filler and it takes a bunch of coats because of shrinking. Hey, do me a favor, next time you use this method try smoothing with acetone instead of sanding. It's how I smooth the red stuff and it work .great. No dust. I usually use a paper towel at first and then switch to makeup remover pads. Its smooths like glass and smells delicious.
I think you mentioned it before that you used the acetone to smooth the putty it’s definitely a nice trick!
This still works with 2 part fillers. Been doing it for years and works great (even with cheap stuff)
Yes It will still thin it you just can’t reactivate it once it hardens , there’s also a filler honey which works in the same aspect & gives more play time, it’s a neat trick. Traditional bondo 2 part just takes forever to sand, I was always using rage gold when I did body repair.
@@Darkwingdad yeah that’s a fair point. I used to dilute the filler down so it was just as thin as the acetone. I’d paint a super thin layer on with a brush then sand and repeat if needed. Saved myself hours if I just sanded without
@@vivalamac good to know, I knew you could do it I just know how much of a pita 2 part bondo filler can be to sand down but I’m sure it’s easier thinned out. I like upol dolphin glaze I’ll have to try it with acetone, problem with the honey is it takes longer to harden & if you put too much in it won’t harden properly. Obviously with acetone no issue there.
@@Darkwingdad That's a good point. I'm in the UK and getting anything specialised like bondo is hard to come by. So had to improvise and it just happened to work well
@@vivalamac I could always ship stuff to you
Will the acetone melt the plastic if applied too heavily?
Not at all, check my latest video on DIY filler I explain it
Do u do any with resin cover then sanding?
No, resin is very toxic, messy,expensive & will not fill in. Anywhere near as well or fast as this.
@@Darkwingdad ok thank you there's a comment below am I missing any sand paper steps or do I need more grades?
was NOT excpeting to get teleported book to the early 2000's with that ADTR intro haha
Soooo good or bad intro? Lol
@@Darkwingdad Very good, I was just modeling to Homecoming last week haha
While I have your attention, Imma reccomend somthing I've been using on pla prints. Its not new, but Truckbed liner. When its fully dry it sands like a dream and clings so hard to pla. I do a coat of that. sand it down in record time. then go in with a sturdier fliller. Ive also used a thin brush on poly urithane, which soaks in and bonds to the sanded truckbed liner, letting you get very crisp finishes.
@@ryanslack4766 interesting, I’m actually using spray on bed liner to reinforce my war machine suit on the interior. The stuff I’m using is more rubbery, in auto body that’d be a no no to put anything on top of it due to its porous nature & flexible properties. I assume what your using is the firmer product that dries hard?
@@Darkwingdad The stuff I use is slightly rubbery, and this helps a lot to fight chip out and cracks during sanding. It's also porous which is why it sands so well, the trick is hitting it with somthing thin enough to saturate the pores of the liner post sanding, I've used spray enamel, as well as uv resin and polyurithane. If I need my parts perfect, I will use spray on filler at the end and a carbide scraper for finishing.
Hi! Isn’t here a simple way to make sure I have the right ratio of acetone to the Bondo plastic metal?
A 1:1 ratio is a great place to start. For thicker try 2 parts bondo & 1 part acetone.
ML is the best as ounces is a bit much so try 20ml to 20ml
If it dries out you can reactivate it with more acetone or thin it down if need be.
What about doing this method with petg or abs?
No issue whatsoever
hit the like for the ADTR shirt and opener audio
Thanks buddy! Let’s gooooo!!
Would this be similar/applicable to permatex liquid metal?
Permatex is definitely tougher but it for sure can be reduced with acetone
@@Darkwingdad gotcha. I appreciate your input and reply! You do great work man. Keep it up!
@@nathanfreeman1204 thanks nathan, I appreciate your support my friend, always here if you need anything!
I believe in one of your videos you apply filler with a piece of foam. I can’t find it but I’m curious what kind of foam you use.
Sorry my wife pointed out the foam thing was a different creator. 🤦♂️
Yea you don’t apply filler with a piece of foam :)
Great choice of music and prop making content! Song could be a lot quieter though to match your talking volume haha
Yea there was a glitch on the app, my apologies!
How does this method do when there is a big seem between two parts 🤔
You want to weld the seam shut. Body fillers are great but if you have a huge gap or opening you should always use like material to close the gap than reinforce with filler
I don't do cosplay items but there's so much of my artwork items have the lines unless I use a very fine nozzle and that takes days to print much less the post processing. This might save me hours of work!
Definitely a time saver!
Just seeing this one now. I never knew about this stuff. Sounds so much better than glazing putty to me. Would have been nice to have used this method on my vampire man bat head. Can you apply it with an airbrush too? Thanks for sharing 🤘💀
I think airbrush is no no it’ll likely clog up, hvlp is a possibility
@@Darkwingdad nice. I don't own one of those guns just yet. I'm definitely going to use this brush on method next go.
@@603VIL I got another video coming soon for ya :)
@@Darkwingdad I'll be waiting 🤙
What would be the benefit of this over spray primer?
Filler primer has no where near the filling ability. Keep in mind this model wasn’t sanded before applying the plastic metal.
It was sanded once after the filler was applied, than again after the primer was applied. Minimal sanding, time saved, great results you can’t beat it.
@@Darkwingdad Transtar 6401 EZ Sand 2K Acrylic Urethane Primer Gray
this is the way
@@MensaboyFilms what’s the price on a gallon? All of the high build fillers are insane. I’m at $150+ for a gallon
@@Darkwingdad at my local auto paint place its about $28 a quart, have to add cost for reducer, so maybe $20 per MIXED quart
i would say you would use about $4 worth on a head sized piece - i am telling you that it flashes quick, you can build it in lyers (after a few minutes of flash time) every bit as thick as you showed that plastic filler cracking in a few thiccccc coats and as it is designed for sanding it cuts like chalk - even sanding with a piece folded in your hand
i do a lot of 3d printed things and i finish them all - i am currently working on a full size R2-D2 in the coming month-ish i will take some video of spraying/sanding with the stuff and post it so you can judge for yourself
@@MensaboyFilms definitely going to look into it, thanks for the recommendation. If I can get some I’ll definitely do a video on it!
Any issue using this stuff with PETG?
None what so ever, huge misunderstanding with acetone & plastics, only when it soaks in it or can’t breathe(diminished o2) you’ll have warping. You’re the safest using it with petg
Where you get your magnets?
amzn.to/3OKvTfu
They make different sizes do just measure
Can get the same results with watered down DAP Plastic Wood. Always wear gloves, no fumes. Once your big divits are filled and dry/sanded, you can brush the watered down mixture on the print, and massage it with your gloved hands. Few passes and sanding should do it.
You’ll have more issues with a water based filler designed for wood & particle board than anything. Wood filler should never be used in this manner, just creates issues with other solvents that are in primers & paints. Stick with what’s work in the auto body industry for decades.
Cool idea and great explanation but those time-lapses are too loud. Keep sharing!
I don’t know why there coming up loud on different phones/devices it’s fine on my iPhone even with AirPods but hey if you weren’t awake you are now lol
ADTR FTW
Hell yea!
Burning the midnight oil DwD. Solid tips.
Gotta get em up while I can, I have so many videos to edit, glad to see I’m not the only one up lol
@@Darkwingdad I got in some new polymaker gold silk pla and the kids wanted rockets 🚀 😂. Popped it in the dryer, finished a workout, sliced the files and letting it rip.
@@cj5376 damn working out this late? I’ve been getting back into a groove, I swear if the gains come & I have to modify my suit I might be a little pissed lol
Thank you. I like your videos, only complaint I have is your speaking volume then your audio/rock track cut ins are at different volumes so I turn it up for your monologue, then have to try and turn it down for the rock track.
I’ve had a few comments on that, it sounds fine on my phone but I’ll know better for next time
@@Darkwingdad I think it's also awkward playing only a few seconds of the track during lapses. Inuitively, I feel it should be at least a 10-second lapse for the punk music to not feel jarring.
@@pooounderscoreman can’t be more than 7 seconds or it’s copyrighted, gotta play by the rules
@@Darkwingdad ohhhh gotcha. I didn't think about that. Nice work.
@@pooounderscoreman yea that’s why I make the full length videos with the music, I think any building with a killer track makes it better, but I’m taking requests if there’s a song or build you wanna see lol
Great video. Maybe just check your music volume vs your talking. I live in an apartment and I had to keep jumping up to catch the volume control because the speech volume is so much lower.
Yea I don’t know why it did that, I had a few people tell me, it seems especially bad when with headphones on or if on an external source. Will have to triple check from here on out
Love the video! Great idea.
One tip would be to tone down the music volume a pinch in the quick cuts it was pretty jarring when the music would hit at twice the volume of your voice.
Not sure why it’s doing it on some platforms, a few have mentioned it.
@@Darkwingdad glad you're aware. Hope you can figure it out for the next one
@@mikelarin8037 unfortunately TH-cam studio won’t allow me to lower the volume just in those sections either
@@Darkwingdad yeah sadly youtube studio isnt very "feature rich" if you're using music from your own library you could convert lower the volume of the original file and then import them to the video edit.
@@mikelarin8037 I always do, this was turned down to 75% from the original audio. I’m almost wondering if there was an error when it was converting or there a bug in the code. On my lap top,phone & tablet there are literally 3 definitive levels, on the laptop with speakers it’s a lot louder. So it may be something in the auxiliary coding in the audio, wish I could fix without taking the video down & redoing it all
For deeper gouges and grooves, you can't go wrong with MH Ready Patch applied with a bondo spreader. It's one part and no red color. The downside is that you can't thin it down for airbrush.
I’ve seen it but never used it, it’s a 2 part filler?
@@Darkwingdad it's one part. It's like spackling but dries much harder. The dried hardness is between Bondo spot putty and 2 part filler.
@@bjaurelio interesting, and it can’t be reduced with acetone or another solvent?
@@Darkwingdad It can be reduced a little with water. I contacted Zinser about thinning, and they said just use a little water if it starts to dry and cannot be thinned to be sprayed. It does have water and mineral spirits in it. I've experimented with a range of solvents, and the best I get still has little lumps. If you can get it to work, it would be the ultimate solution in my eyes due to the lack of red dye and cost.
@@bjaurelio challenge accept lol I’m gonna order some and play around with it!
I love your channel and I love that you try different things but I don’t think you’ve ever actually tried uv resin coating properly because it is the fastest of all the methods and the strongest.
You can sand first or not and apply multiple coats (use a little talcum to make it thicker as it’s too fluid and pools up otherwise)
You cure when you are ready so your working time is up to you and instead of the only 5 minute dry time to start sanding you can sand within seconds with uv resin as long as it’s a thin coat and even a thick coat is under a minute so in the time it takes you for 1 coat and you’re ready to sand I can have 5-10 coats and sand in between each of them but it’s as thick as you need it to be so usually 2-3 coats is enough.
Props and stuff TH-cam channel uses this technique as well and it really does adds rigidity to your parts and strengthens corners which you don’t get from filler primer.
Try it again but with talcum and give it a proper shot and you will see
First off thank you for the kind words, great to have you as a subscriber!
In reference to uv resin I have tried it in the past & it certainly serves a roll in certain situations. In my experience though it doesn’t really save any time, and in fact can create more time with the curing & clean up. Probably my biggest turn off with resin is your fighting gravity which can lead to build up in defined areas that which once the resin is cured that definition is lost for good or a pain to remove.
I know with putties I can simply reactivate it with acetone to reduced it or just clean it up with a file very simply. When I need to do something faster I’ll bust out the 2k primer in an hvlp gun but I know not everyone has that which I why I did the method.
Truth be told for deep defects resin has never satisfied me (tried it on my Vader build) but on a clean print like vecna it worked great. Just different strokes for different folks.
@@Darkwingdad That’s why the talc powder is key here, if you don’t use it or enough of it the UV resin is too fluid and pools and gravity does manipulate the application but if you add talc you can turn it as thick as bondo if wanted but I usually mix enough talc to get the consistency of syrup and gravity doesn’t affect it all especially when it’s a thin layer, usually I cure for 20 seconds (to be safe but 5 seconds can be enough) and I spray a little alcohol and sand, it’s so quick it’s nuts. The key is a little goes a long way and I spread it around until it feathers out then I again start slightly previous to where I feather out and go from there and again until it feathers out. I sand 180 to 220 in between coats and you can have a whole helmet done and sanded and primed in 20 to 40 mins depending on geometry and layer lines are gone completely while have layers strengthen since you’re creating a plastic shell basically that’s bonded to the print. 2k primer is by far the fastest since you can spray it vs brush it for health reasons obviously but the edge detail is harder to maintain and sanding back to get your edges takes time as well so it’s a hit or miss depending on the project and larger applications it’s a no brainer.
Regardless you have to do what works for you but I just think you should try it again and film it and use some talc in there till you get it to a syrupy consistency and see how fast and easy it is.
@@techguy38 I appreciate the insight, perhaps I’ll do a comparison video between them all. It’d be interesting to see
Looks like something where you'd want to use a sponge brush.
You could try but a sponge will leave more of a texture that could fill in defined areas of the print.
Loved you using Downfall Of Us All. My buddy Jeff used to tour with ADTR doing audio for them. Great band.
Seen them last month, been a fan since 09 friggen love em!
Oh MAN this is gonna make painting my mk40 suit so much easier since my airbrushes shit the bed.
It’s really helped me get some progress, with my busy schedule I don’t always have time to load up the hvlp gun,compressor & sling body filler plus clean up & set up. This has helped a lot, I think you’ll really like it!
in the words of borat very nice
Lol thanks man
@@Darkwingdad I want to get into 3d printing for cosplay helmets and armor any recommendations what what to buy thanks again
@@hansherrera6969 printer wise? This will be your first?
@@Darkwingdad yes
Nice video! Just need to check your vocal volume with your music. Not balanced. Need to lower volume every time music plays.😉
Ugh that 34.99 app isn’t worth a penny! It seemed ok when I had it going, I’ll try and adjust it, hopefully it didn’t ruin the video
@@Darkwingdad All good. Very helpful video, thanks.👍🏻
I use 120 420 1200 2000 have I missed to many steps or need to add an extra step of sand paper
I do 80,160
Apply putty
Sand 220
Filler primer
Sand 320
Filler primer
Sand with 400/600
Add a final primer & wetsand if need be with 1500 before applying paint
You may be able to skip some steps like not doing the 400/600 sand but it usually doesn’t take that long and reassures the model is 100%
@@Darkwingdad when you do the 80 and 160 and add the putty say my helmet is in individual peace's would I just glue together first then follow the 80 160 then putty if needed?
@@1937Brett you can use a contact glue to hold it together but you’ll want to pla weld it to fully remove seams & ensure it’s bonded together.
@@Darkwingdad I found using a glue gun with petg works very well
Can you airbrush this stuff?
Video in progress :)
@@Darkwingdad lets goooooo
@@PikachusGift so teaser, I’ll be doing a whole video on all the putties & fillers I use. What to spray them in (hvlp or airbrush) & how well they work
If you read the back of the cans of all the paints you named off, they are all unfortunately owned by rustolium now.
Im not sure what paint I mentioned but duplicolor owns krylon & 3M makes bondo. Axalta manufactures upol & that’s pretty much all the products I use aside from evercoat.
tbh I rather just buy acetone from the dollar store and take make cotton pads wipe it down let it air vent *One pass not damp not wet* reapply only if needed and it gets the job done pretty good the goal is to elimanate more downtime sanding because afterall sanding sucks.
For some models vapor smoothing can definitely work however it will weaken the model & you can lose definitive attributes quickly. I have seen people have success with it though
great channel but you got to work on your music choices :D
Nah, ADTR is where it’s at, let’s gooooo
Awesome video also What's with the weird A day to Remeber band shirt that straight copied obituarys logo design lol so weird but kinda cool
I had to look up who they were lol maybe it was inspired by them since both bands are from FL, I got it at there concert it’s just a cool shirt, the other shirt says f*ck you from Florida lol figured this one was better haha
I would've given you thumbs up, but that g*ya** song just turn my stomach upside downn.
ADTR if you know you know!
If you take the hours spent doing this you could have printed at a higher quality
I don’t care if you print at .08 you still will have imperfections and layer lines you have to sand, fill & finish, but is the wear & tear on the machine worth it in the long run?
Fact is this process works quickly. Literally took me a bit over an hour to get this smooth. Bumping a print from
.36 to .2 is going to double the print time from a day & a half to closer to 4 days. If this process works on a quick sloppy print it’ll work even better on a finer one, I’m not one to tie my printer up for 3-4 days and still have to sand & fill when I can tie it up for a day & a half and prep it in a few hours.