Brian of all the how to vids on You Tube you are far and away the best on showing us how to do this stuff. I'm and old geezer pretty new to turning and I learn some thing good that's new every time I watch one of you vids. Thank you for your time explaining so well.
Brian, I will have to check out more of your videos. As a self proclaimed scraper pyscho, this is well done. I like the use of straws for showing grain orientation. I compare the difference between a scraping cut and shear scrape or any shear cut to going over speed bumps in the parking lot. Hit it head on and you get a big bump. Hit it at a 45 degree angle and the bump smooths out a lot. I do prefer rounded noses to the straight ones for shear scraping, and drop the handle a bit so it is impossible to get above center on the tool and get a catch. Also, you can't shear scrape the inside of a bowl with a straight edge.
Yeah Brian, you're spot on again!I have noticed that some retailers and manufacturers are promoting the carbide scrapers and although these tools are somewhat useful, novice turners seem to get the idea that these tools will give them an acceptable finished result and they don't need to learn how to sharpen and grind traditional basic tools. I am all for getting people interested in turning but teaching people a method like this is like saying you can turn a museum piece with sandpaper. To me, mastering a craft is an ongoing effort and although it is sometimes tempting to go for the quick method, the quick method usually comes at a price that may not be apparent at the time.
Really enjoyed the scraper series, learned a lot and now looking for a Canadian supplier of HSS to make some specialty scrapers. Double benefit. Cheers, Gord
This is a GREAT tutorial and explanation of the differences in shear scraping with different tools and techniques. Your attention to detail is unmatched! I had never thought to divide a traditional scraper into two cutting planes. I usually use a gouge for shear scraping and now I have another tool for my arsenal. Like Robohippy (thanks for your videos also Robbohippy) I use round nose scrapers when needed but this is another technique I think will be very useful for me. The visual affects that this technique has on difficult wood is very good. Excellent video! Thanks and subbed!
Just to say thanks for all your foundation vids. I find them good as 'originals' and as refreshers. We can always learn! Not only this, you have also helped resolve a mystery. I inherited an 'odd tool' when buying a bunch on line. Didn't know what it did, what it was called or how to use it. Took it to my local club, all the experts were none the wiser, one suggested it was a home made tool. it didn't look that way to me although thee was no manufacturers name visible. It's not a 3 point tool but I think it may be what you call a pyramid point tool and what others may describe as a shear spear! It's made from 1/2" stock with one facet only ground at about 20 degrees and a normal 'bevel' at 35 degrees. This making two bevel edges of about 3/8th" length. Am I right in thinkinng this is basically for shear scraping?
Excellent informative video. I assume that shear scraping the inside of a bowl or hollowed form operates with the same principles but you need a tool that's already angled for a 45 degree cut. This video has helped my understanding greatly, in particular about when and why not to use a scraper! Does a round nose negative rake scraper operate with similar principles, in effect with there being very little of the burr in contact with the material?And the half round stock design by for example, Tracy Owen?
Brian, I have an old skew that I'd like to try to grind into this configuration. Can you give me an approximate angle for the point and for the underside bevel. Looks like about 20 deg either side of the point and about 40 degrees on the bevel under. Thanks. Oh, and great use of the straws as a visual aid. I'll have to try that to help me read the wood as I work on it.
+Mike Porter Those angles are about right. The precise angles are not important. The angle either side of the tip needs to be enough to keep the top half of the burr away from the work, and to provide a comfortable handle angle for drawing the tool towards one's self. I use 40 degrees for the bevel because that is what my grinder platform is set at, but I lift the handle on the last pass, just barely skimming the edge on the grinding wheel, to create a small micro bevel. I find doing this creates a really good burr. (You can experiment with the angle of the micro bevel to see what works well.)
Is it worth shear scraping or making finish cuts before you flip it around onto the chuck? Maybe I'm making lousy tenons and mortises and misaligning the work, but I rarely run dead-true once I'm on the chuck. I re-true and then make finish cuts and hollow.
When roughing out a green wood bowl, I don't worry about tear outs because they can be dealt with in the second turning after the blank dries. But...would shear scraping on green wood have any benefits during the second turning?
+Doug Robins I don't worry about tear out on roughed-out green bowls, since it will all be cut away on the second turing. The only reason I can think of to shear scrape on the green wood on the first turning is for practice.
Great episode Brian!
Brian of all the how to vids on You Tube you are far and away the best on showing us how to do this stuff. I'm and old geezer pretty new to turning and I learn some thing good that's new every time I watch one of you vids. Thank you for your time explaining so well.
I’m so glad I found your channel, it’s been of great value to a new turner like myself. Thanks for sharing.... great stuff🤙🏽
Brian, I will have to check out more of your videos. As a self proclaimed scraper pyscho, this is well done. I like the use of straws for showing grain orientation. I compare the difference between a scraping cut and shear scrape or any shear cut to going over speed bumps in the parking lot. Hit it head on and you get a big bump. Hit it at a 45 degree angle and the bump smooths out a lot. I do prefer rounded noses to the straight ones for shear scraping, and drop the handle a bit so it is impossible to get above center on the tool and get a catch. Also, you can't shear scrape the inside of a bowl with a straight edge.
Another fantastic description of a tool and its uses. Thanks Brian.
thanks Brian ----- always enjoy your lessons..... thanks for putting them up.
As always a great video on technique.
I review these often.
Thanks for making them.
Yeah Brian, you're spot on again!I have noticed that some retailers and manufacturers are promoting the carbide scrapers and although these tools are somewhat useful, novice turners seem to get the idea that these tools will give them an acceptable finished result and they don't need to learn how to sharpen and grind traditional basic tools. I am all for getting people interested in turning but teaching people a method like this is like saying you can turn a museum piece with sandpaper. To me, mastering a craft is an ongoing effort and although it is sometimes tempting to go for the quick method, the quick method usually comes at a price that may not be apparent at the time.
Excellent job Brian
Really enjoyed the scraper series, learned a lot and now looking for a Canadian supplier of HSS to make some specialty scrapers. Double benefit. Cheers, Gord
Thanks Brian! Another good lesson. I'll have to give this a try and save on sandpaper.
Take care, Dave
This is a GREAT tutorial and explanation of the differences in shear scraping with different tools and techniques. Your attention to detail is unmatched! I had never thought to divide a traditional scraper into two cutting planes. I usually use a gouge for shear scraping and now I have another tool for my arsenal. Like Robohippy (thanks for your videos also Robbohippy) I use round nose scrapers when needed but this is another technique I think will be very useful for me. The visual affects that this technique has on difficult wood is very good. Excellent video! Thanks and subbed!
Lesson learned my friend. Thanks again for sharing. Marc
Very nice job!! Thanks for showing this technique.
Thanks Brian this is an extremely educational tutorial much appreciated
Another great video. Very professional. Just got cbn wheels, they are putting a great burr on my scrapers... Just subscribed to your channel. Aloha
Thanks for the tutorial and I will give it a go
James
Another great video.
nice video great tool work.
Just to say thanks for all your foundation vids. I find them good as 'originals' and as refreshers. We can always learn! Not only this, you have also helped resolve a mystery. I inherited an 'odd tool' when buying a bunch on line. Didn't know what it did, what it was called or how to use it. Took it to my local club, all the experts were none the wiser, one suggested it was a home made tool. it didn't look that way to me although thee was no manufacturers name visible. It's not a 3 point tool but I think it may be what you call a pyramid point tool and what others may describe as a shear spear! It's made from 1/2" stock with one facet only ground at about 20 degrees and a normal 'bevel' at 35 degrees. This making two bevel edges of about 3/8th" length. Am I right in thinkinng this is basically for shear scraping?
Excellent informative video. I assume that shear scraping the inside of a bowl or hollowed form operates with the same principles but you need a tool that's already angled for a 45 degree cut. This video has helped my understanding greatly, in particular about when and why not to use a scraper! Does a round nose negative rake scraper operate with similar principles, in effect with there being very little of the burr in contact with the material?And the half round stock design by for example, Tracy Owen?
Great vidieo
Thank you for great informative videos
Too good!
"Lice night cut" I laughed more than I should :D
Brian, I have an old skew that I'd like to try to grind into this configuration. Can you give me an approximate angle for the point and for the underside bevel. Looks like about 20 deg either side of the point and about 40 degrees on the bevel under. Thanks. Oh, and great use of the straws as a visual aid. I'll have to try that to help me read the wood as I work on it.
+Mike Porter Those angles are about right. The precise angles are not important. The angle either side of the tip needs to be enough to keep the top half of the burr away from the work, and to provide a comfortable handle angle for drawing the tool towards one's self. I use 40 degrees for the bevel because that is what my grinder platform is set at, but I lift the handle on the last pass, just barely skimming the edge on the grinding wheel, to create a small micro bevel. I find doing this creates a really good burr. (You can experiment with the angle of the micro bevel to see what works well.)
Thanks so much. Will give it a go.
Is it worth shear scraping or making finish cuts before you flip it around onto the chuck? Maybe I'm making lousy tenons and mortises and misaligning the work, but I rarely run dead-true once I'm on the chuck. I re-true and then make finish cuts and hollow.
Thank you.
When roughing out a green wood bowl, I don't worry about tear outs because they can be dealt with in the second turning after the blank dries. But...would shear scraping on green wood have any benefits during the second turning?
+Doug Robins I don't worry about tear out on roughed-out green bowls, since it will all be cut away on the second turing. The only reason I can think of to shear scrape on the green wood on the first turning is for practice.
Is it possible to use a lathe while being in a wheelchair.
The most fun you can have with a piece of wood is with a lathe.