Roughing Out a Natrual Edge Bowl
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มี.ค. 2016
- The Apple tree I recently dissected did not go along with my plan. I was planning a couple other videos before I go back to the task of roughing out the half-logs into bowls. The Anchor-seal bought me some time, but one of the pieces started to crack. Time to get busy roughing, starting with a piece that are destined to be natural-edge bowl.
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Again, thank you Brian. You inspire us guys who follow your instructional videos because we want to get better at this great craft. Guys like you save us making mistakes, and from getting hurt! Serious, I've learnt so much from you. Keep teaching us my friend!
As usual you do a great job of explaining the wood, tools and turning techniques while showing alternatives. Excellent video. thank you.
Excellent for a beginner to wood turning after so many years of metal turning. Thank you for sharing your skills and experience. 👍👍🇦🇺🔭
Great video Brian. Excellent piece of instruction and wonderfully produced video to boot as the various camera angles really show whats going on. Many thanks, Gord
I like that technique. I like the level idea of keeping the face plate more parallel
to the flat.
Thanks for your time on this, Brian.
Thanks again Brian.
I always enjoy and benefit from your videos so many thanks.
Brilliant video. I always enjoy watching the video's that you make.
As always, an excellent tutorial. Thanks for your time and sharing.
Thanks for another great video. I just scored some logs from a neighbor's tree that was cut down, and am in the process of cutting the logs into blanks.
Thank you for sharing your process. I learned a lot from this video.
Chris
Thanks for a very informative video. Learned a lot.
Love your videos! You explain everything right to detail in every way! Thanks Brian!...sub added.
Bob.
Brian, I really enjoy your videos and as a new turner I've be en learning a lot. Noticed you haven't posted a new video in a long time. Hope you're okay and just busy turning.
Thanks again for sharing. Marc
Hi, great video, Brian, as all your videos! As for drying, I once saw that a turner put his roughed out green bowls in paper bags, embedded in a good amount of shavings from the green wood. That slows the drying, I'm currently testing that method...
great video! thank you.
you are always good
long time no see welcome back
Thanks Brian
:) thanks for the mention.
Very good video. I have attempted some natural edge bowls and I really enjoy making them. However, I have a slight problem. When I make conventional bowls, I am just using a jet midi lathe, so my bowls are 8" or less, and I am able to hold the top of the bowl,either with a jig, or some cole jaws. But when turning a natural edge bowl, the rim is not uniform. How do I remove the tenon , once I am ready to ?
For your left handed cut, ever stay on the right side and use a pull cut? Also, if I am mounting a face plate for a NE bowl, I use a forstner bit to level out the top of the blank. I have snapped a few screws from not having the face plate flat on the wood.
+robohippy I have not tried a left-handed pull cut. Although the right handed pivot cut keeps me somewhat out of the way, I found that a left-handed pivot cut kept me further out of the way.
I should have mentioned that I used hardened steel screws (from McFeeleys or Woodcraft ). I have never snapped them (even when I tried). I tried the forester bit to flatten a surface, but the irregular surface caused the forstner bit to catch on the wood.
+Brian Havens Yea, drilling with the big bits can make the sphincters pucker... I use a 1 inch bit, drill the center, then use the depth stop. Most of the time I don't use the face plate anyway.
brian nice tip. bob
Could you show how you rough out a winged bowl? Really enjoy your videos .
With respect to the location of the heartwood - I thought the bowl used in the demo might work best...… with some things, if you miss center, it's visually better to miss it by a wider margin, rather than almost on center. I think the way our minds work - we want to center something that's almost on center. Get it far enough off center and one's mind doesn't feel that need.
чем вы покрыли изделие вконце?? спасибо за видео!
Hi Brian,do you ever make a little dimple on the tenon so it will make it easier to centre when re mounting,just a suggestion.
Excellent video,and well explained,
cheers Colin.
+Colin Chalmers The dimple is one of those really good ideas that I habitually forget to use. LOL
lol
how do you make the sealer? It looks like titebond2.
Hey you may have mentioned but what type of sealer are you using
Just wondering why you chose the faceplate over a wood screw..
how do you sharpen your tools
Workiing my way through your videos, so apologies if covered elsewhere. You mention alcohol drying. Just had a quick look on supplies of denatured alchohol and in the UK it's not straight forward. So any idea if isopropyl alcohol works the same?
I think that the isopropyl should work fine since it is still miscible with water. I am curious about the issue with denatured alcohol in the UK. Here in the states, denatured alcohol (which is essentially alcohol that has specifically been made poisonous so that it cannot be consumed as a beverage) is less expensive because, being poisonous, it is not subject to alcohol tax. Oddly twisted.
Surely surgical spirit is denatured alcohol. That should be available from any pharmacy.
I will try this, thanks. How big is that gouge?
+george postins It is a 1/2" gouge (5/8" stock).
are you just using a face plate? thanks!!
Yes, with hardened steel screws.
Brian -- I enjoyed this video and learned from it, but I strongly disagree with the way you demonstrated mounting a face plate. It is unsafe. (I know you've never had a problem with this method. That only proves that you've been lucky, not that the method of mounting a face plate is safe.) The primary strength of a face plate's hold comes not from the screws but from the contact between the surface of the face plate and the blank. This contact holds the surface of the blank on the same plane as the surface of the blank -- both spinning around the axis of the lathe. With 360 degrees of contact between the surface of the blank and the face plate, it would take a lot of force to tilt the blank off axis.
With your method of mounting the blank, only one point of the face plate is firmly in contact with the blank. Across from that point of contact, the other side is shimmed. The rest of the face plate is in contact with nothing but air. Only the screws prevent the blank from tilting off axis. This is a force that screws -- hardened or not -- are not designed to withstand. Without tailstock support, I bet you could have easily rocked the blank from side to side with just arm strength. A catch could exert a lot more force.
Robohippy already suggested using a large Forstner bit to level off the top of the blank. That should work if the bit is mounted in the drill press. If not, use your bench chisels to roughly level a spot before using the Forstner bit.
That's a hell of a waste of wood at 10.49