How To Pick The Proper Welding Rod (All You Need Is These Two)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I will be sharing with you from my 17 years of mobile stick welding experience which two types of welding rods I recommend for doing all kinds of diy projects around the house or the farm. With all the information out there today it can be confusing to know exactly what is right and what is wrong. This is why I got inspired to make this video. I can only speak from my 17 years of welding experience and in the welding industry there is lots of different variables to consider when picking the proper welding electrode for the particular job. I hope this video is helpful. And keep in mind I am constantly learning and very open minded to new information. So what I share in this video may be old news a couple months from now so stay tuned to the latest videos on the channel! Thank you for stopping by!
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A Ross is simply the best to listen to and best to learn from… respect
agree with you....rock on A Ross
He's the best to learn from
Amen on that he has helped me with a lot and now I’m doing my own barn/house with all the tips from his videos
welding up hill is what is required for D1:1 structural code on open groove or groove with backers....
uphill also has more build up than downhill when using cellulose rods [6010 and 6011]
you do not want to use 7018 in a down hill weld as slag has the possibility to be trapped under
the weld pool.....the reason 6010 and 6011 can go down hill is the minimal amount of slag and fast freezing
puddle.....it also has a much larger gas shield than 7018, which mostly relies on slag to to protect the weld pool...
because of the lack of gas shielding on 7018, the open root is done with 6010 and it's Cellulose Sodium flux covering,
hope this helps....cheers from an old guy down South, Paul.....p.s. 6010 needs moisture in the flux to preform correctly,
that is why it is not kept stored and heated to 250 f like 7018 is required to be.....7018's limestone flux absorbs moisture
very fast and that ruins the low hydrogen aspect of the rod......keep that in mind for important jobs, some will require
you to have a rod oven on site, and open a fresh sealed can of rods in front of a witness or inspector......if you buy some brands of
7018 that are not vacuum packed [cheap off brands] they will come in a cardboard container and will have to be baked to remove moisture
to gain the low hydrogen quality.....that temperature is 700 to 800 degrees f for 30 to 60 minutes.....300f will not do the trick...
there is one company who makes Atom Arc rids, ESAB who sells 4 pound packages of 7018.....so you can be guaranteed of
rod with no moisture without having to buy a 10 lb can....which is about $55 bucks at the moment for Lincoln Excalibur. 7018 ....I bought some Lincoln 7018 last week so I am up today on prices.....cheers...Paul
Thanks for posting this. Actually a nice refresher for structural code. I mostly work under D1.1 but also do a lot of hardfacing and tractor traile repairs
You are absolutely CORRECT. No downhill with 7018. Sucker rod in my experience VARIES in Composition. I have NEVER worked in the "oilfield" but I have come across ONE INCH Sucker rod, it seems to be high Carbon, an alloy that will CRACK in nothing flat if not Cleaned of rust on the joint, preheated, welded with Low Hy, and post heated. I have gone out and repaired sucker rod fences that have cracked all to hell and the "rods" falling off after a cold spell especially below freezing. The other thing is a round horizontal Rod welded to a vertical pipe post, especially if the post is Used Drill Stem: This "joint" the round ROD welded to round POST as a "cross" is not the best engineered joint in the world. But is is common everywhere. If you build fences for the public you will have to do it that way. I do multiple pass on that kind of joint. I have seen people in the interest of throwing it up FAST, which a lot of customers demand, they make a Drag over the joint, one pass with a mild steel electrode and then on to the next joint. Those are the ones that will fall off when it gets cold. If one can buy BRAND NEW HOT ROLL mild steel rounds, they weldability is much better and worth the extra cost, at least way back THEN when I was doing those types of fences. I don't do them anymore. When I weld mild steel I usually use 6019. The only 6011 I buy is 3/32 6011 to build GATES from Mild steel tub, pipe, and small diameter pipe / tube. I would us 3/32 6010, but the welding supply does not stock them where I am or was, so I bought 6011. The 3/32 6011 is great for welding thin wall round galvanized tube or pipe. The small diameter round slows one down so it is easier to get a quality Bead on the joint. If people will not pay you to do it RIGHT, don't take the job. So many people "think" a "Fence is a fence" and do not want to hear "I am higher in Price, but I do it RIGHT". When they answer with a "fence is a fence" it is time to go home and scratch them off the list of customers.
@@bobburnitt5761 I saw on a blacksmithing channel that a lot of sucker rod is 4140 steel. There are charts to identify what you're looking at by the shape and manufacturer or something but I didn't look too far into it since I don't have any or plan on getting any.
@@zachprice3279 Never heard of sucker rod but I'm not a stick welder. 4140 is ChromeMoly, much stronger than mild steel.
Good to know that there is 4# 7018 available.
A million years ago, I was taking a welding class at a community college, long story short, I asked the instructor how to select the right rod, he thought I was being a smart ass(this time I wasn’t), ended up joining the carpenters union, the respectable trade😂, never learned, just used what was on hand. Thoroughly enjoy the channel.
Thanks for sharing this information with us Austin, it's appreciated. Stay safe and keep up the fun around there. Fred.
I was a 6g and 3g certified welder 35 years ago. Don’t know if that means anything to anyone today, but I think you pretty much nailed it. Those are the 2 rods I have here at the house. Be safe out there!
I like 3/32 7014, smooth as butter! I only have a 75 inverter based stick welding machine.
1/8 inch and under you can't beat 7014
40+ years welding experience. Listen to Austin, this is very good information.
Always good information Austin !! JB
I'm a certified structural welder & we use 7018 rods on the column/trusses & 6011 or 6010 on the red iron (cee or zee purlins) then on commercial buildings 7018 exept for a root pass or on roof decking to joist.
Thank you for this video. I always get tripped up when I go in to buy welding rod. This information was perfect for the new DIY'r
I understand what you're saying. I've found 7014 to be a nicer rod to start welding with as compared to 7018.
I agree. 7014 is easier to strike an arc.
I agree 100% I welded for a good number of years and 7018 and 6010 where my go to rod for that type of work !!
absolutely agree on those 2 rods and as you progress youll pick up more types of rod for different types of work. difference is i always root pass 6010 then cap 7018 but thats me. 7018 does run fine down and with practice it works really well. i was having problems with a tight area on a structure job once and a pipeliner taught me that downhilling 7018 is possible and solved my problems.
Good advice for folks getting started,..... keep it simple during the learning process and sharpen those skills. Rod selection can be very confusing for someone just getting started. When you think you have it all figured out and are ready to really go down the rabbit hole, start welding on heavy equipment, cranes, and excavator booms and bulldozer blades and frames where you are welding castings to plate which has been patched and cobbled up while leaving dirt, oil, and grease in every crack and seam. Sometimes you end up working with material over three inches thick and really tough alloys that requires the use of 9018, 11018 which almost always requires preheat. With heavy equipment, you'll need to keep a large selection of welding rods ranging from 3/32 all the way to 1/4 with a variety of different tensile strengths and flux compositions. Mr. Ross is giving good advice here and is absolutely correct. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise with others. Our country is in trouble with the lack of people willing to go into heavy industry. Your videos are inspiring and informative and I hope that they will spark the interest of a younger generation to enter this challenging and rewarding field. Keep that hood down and the sparks flying!
Amen, agree 100%. 40 years welding and I can honestly say 90% of the time I use those 2 rods.
I have welded old cast iron with 7018 ( cast iron from horse drawn equipment ) and it worked very good . I will probley shouldn't add this but where I worked for 38 years we had some of the best welders you could find ANYWHERE there was two classifications (crafts) boiler maker and pipe fitter . Pipe fitters welded mostly down hill ,Boiler makers welded mostly uphill . both crafts welds hydrostatied at 3500 psi,many were x ray not all
Great video I always enjoy your videos and a lot of good intel.
This is the exact info I've been trying to get someone to tell me for years. Ask anyone and get tons of different answers. My pipeline welding buddy said to use 8010 on my fence I'm like dude i don't even know where to buy those.
Next I'd like a video on making pipe saddles and adapting different size pipes.
I seem to have it backwards from your recommendations. I've never had luck with 6010 on lighter materials. I've always known 6010 to be a deep penetration rod so I use it with heavy/thick materials. 7018 I use for general purpose, dirty materials or non-flat position welding.
Hey Austin, in regards to stick weldin. You can actually get certified running downhands however more passes are required do to less filler per pass. As u said running ur passes up hill does put more material in each pass. The info u provided on welding hoods was very good and i did wonder why pipe welders preferd the small lens over the larger lens but now i know thanks to u. Well done.
Hey Austin, thanks for sharing all of your knowledge. My local welding supply store recommended a rod called
80T AC as “the most versatile” rod for our ranch. What are your thoughts? We are in the process of fabricating 2 3/8 inch drill stem gates for a corral system and want to use the correct rod. Thanks again for your knowledge!
I tried 1/8 6010 couple times in AC and DC>R+S on a 40 year old Miller 300 Dialarc, I prefer 6011 it seam to wash out and fill gaps better and I thought was better on rusty steel.... Therefore for beginners around the farm thats welding dirty steel I recommend 3/32> 6011 and 7018 DC rods, thats 45 years of welding experience, 35 in shipyard........ Or better yet get a small mig welder and use .030 wire......
I was just talking to my partner at work about those two rods, but also 6013 on anything thinner than 1/8"
I run a rig truck out of Hominy, Oklahoma. We aren’t far from each other.
I got a smoking deal on 14 boxes of 7010 P1 (hippie) 5/32. I’ve been running them for 6-7 months now and weld everything with them, I keep a box of 3/32 7018 in the truck in case I feel the need for them and always keep some at the shop. I really enjoy that 7010. It’s strong, runs about like 6010 but it doesn’t crack. Ive used it to weld a hitch in on my truck and built couple barns with it and they are all held up great.
If you’d like, I can give you a box to burn thru and get your breakdown of it.
Thanks Austin 👍
I keep 3/32, 1/8, and 5/32 in 6010 and 7018
As well as some 11018 and 309
I love to drag the 6013 like 7024 ,easy slag removal. it is a general purpose fast fill and good looking every day rod. It helps to prep/clean the joints i use 7018 or 11018 for any high strength welds all 70xx rod is a low hydrogen rod and needs to be dry just lay the 7018 down on a flat metal table and heat it with a torch before using. 6011 will burn through dirt, paint, rust, grease and get it done for a quick fix.
Great content sir. Thanks! 😊
always great information Austin.......Paul in Orlando
Absolutely nice video, I love it thanks 👍👍🙏🙏❤❤
38 years of welding and fencing. I've used 6010 for rusted pipe and flat plates. I use 6011 90%of the time. 7018 I use for any thing that 1/4" or thicker. I hardly use 6013. But your right on what is Preferred in any type of welding.
I would add 1/8" lincoln weld 6011.
Eats thru rust dirt galvanized better.
My boss used to say a good one inch of weld, you'll rip a chunk out of your pipe before the weld will break. May the good arc be yours. 💥
I have a Miller bobcat 250 and do mobile welding all over the area down here in Mexico. I agree mostly with what you say but I have only 1/8 inch 6011 and 7018 available. If I'm gonna be burning a lot and don't want to keep going back to the welder to adjust the heat, I just st it up for the 7018 rod and then burn 6011 faster so as to not have to constantly be going back to the welder. You can do a hotter root and then do your hot pass and go right into the 7018 and I haven't had problems. Some inspector may not like that, but I haven't had any problems.
I agree with 99% of what you use, back in the old days we used 1/8 rod for up to 1/4 inch thick steel & heavier steel we used 5/ 32 for the really heavy plate we used a big 1/4 rod; and as I previously mentioned for rusted oilfield junk,we used 6011 rod which is also good for beginners & for newer clean steel,we used 6013 rod it burns a lot like 7018 ; but I'm retired & not up to the specifications of pipe line welding! I do know that a lot of the tank welders in the shop, still use 1/8&5/32 6011 rods, but they don't have to meet x- rays & high pressure requirements which I know the 6010 & 7018 do meet. And I do have some experience in welding stainless steel " gunnite" hooks inside refinery boilers & smoke stacks ; just pretend the stainless rods are 7018 & you'll be OK, they burn much the same way, up or down hill & horizontal, which a lot of stainless steel hooks are actually welded on in a horizontal position! Just burn the rod hot like 7018 or 6013! But as usual you do a great job on your videos & yes suckered rod is harder steel, I usually use 2 passes one 6011 & one 7018 or 6013 & they don't break! Sometimes I used to just tack the sucker rod in place with a 1/8 6011 & then actually weld it with 7018.
6011 is just 6010 that can run on AC current.
Austin you know what you are talking about I've been welding for a living for 53 years you know what your telling everyone
I been do it yourself guy forever I use the 7018 but I love 6011 for most things
What about 7014 for non structural ? My father started welding professionally in the late 50's and started his own steel fabrication shop in the 60's. It's been 20+ years since he passed but when I started working in my father's shop in the early 80's and right up to his death we mostly used 7018 for structural, columns, beams, stair stringers ect, and 7014 for non structural, furniture, art, art display baces etc.
Good info my friend,
Hey Austin...you're amazing...learned a lot from you! What do you think of 7014 - I don't have something to keep 7018 dry all the time
all nice, but in my region 6010 is unabtainium :D we got 6013. All the heavy equipment is done with 6013 and 7018.
I’ve welded and machined sucker rod. It is a fairly hard alloy of steel. Much of it is magnetized and blows the arc to one side of the weld if I don’t weld it on AC.
I 100% agree 6010 as a root pass on dirty grind out, and 7018 3/32 for as much as it takes for fill or cap.
Great channel
Thank you. But I wouldn't mind more. I grew up on a farm(northeast-no pipe fences up here). Dad couldn't weld, he hired most of it done for equipment repairs. I'm the same way but with economy the way it is, I want to do more myself. I only run one rod on everything because I'm too cheep to stock two different rods. So far all I play with is 7018 1\8. And it always turns out ugly. I need more practice but thanks to you I'm starting to understand more of the concepts.
In time you will start to make things strong and nice to look at. For my personal stuff I’m fine with gorilla welds (big ugly and strong). But the work I do for others is proper prep, preheat,rod oven, the whole nine. But I also when I have time I practice using the wrong rod on dirty,oily, and bad fit ups along with differing thickness and hardness metals just to help make those occasional emergency repairs to get things to a better and safer place to do a proper repair. I do this because I have had a call on a broken d3 that had went off the logging road and a broken track frame. And I just had to do what I could to get it back out to the landing for a proper repair/ replacement. Just a long way of saying practice as much as you can afford
Good and great information
But explain to WPS,FREE HEATING WELDING,PIP WELDING ALSO PLS
Opinions using 7014 repairing implements....usually 1/4-1/2" plate
Those are the two rods that I have. And every time I set out to weld I remind myself that if you ride in/on or walk under it's 7018. And vertical up is always stronger, but sometimes it just ain't working.
When I was a carpenter and certified welder, we could only use 7018 for anything structural. 6010 is ok if you have a DC welder
I do alot of out of position welding 1/8" 6013 was usually my go too. Change the polarity on my ranger 8 I could do 14 gauge no problem.
Yes sir, old trick, when welding very thin metal, 6013 will work, switch to AC and you can weld 24 GA sheet metal. But only rod we have now is 6010 and 7018.
I do not even weld but like to know by watching a well made video
Me too. It is fun to learn about things you may never actually "do", but just wonder how it is done.
Well said Austin as I can't think of any situation on steel those two rods won't handle be it on a I beam in a building or truck frame hallin ass down the road !
why not use 7014 on z purlin and sheet metal . 7018 because of freezing ,excellent advice . There is a new rod 7016 that I need to learn about . I like 7024 , railroad rod , and stainless rod for repair on high carbon steel . A house hold stove makes a great rod oven and is free off Craigslist . I have a mini stove and oven for job sights .Fork lift propane tank last all day . A fridge is perfect for an air drier and is also available free off Caigslist
I use 6010 or 6011 x 3/32 on thin metal with amps set between 70-85
As far as stick welding goes, most of what i do at work is pipework and pressure vessels. We use 6010, 7016/7018 and for lower pressure stuff sometimes use 6013. Most of the time roots are welded with Tig, as 6010 is fine for low pressure but not high pressure.
But what do i use in different situations?
What it says on the WPS 👍😄👌
Uphill has a heavier deposition rate so it can lead to a stronger weld.
Would you please tell me again what the two rods are that you recommend?
I don`t think the numbers came out right on my closed caption.
Thanks Austin!
Howabout ol red rod 6o1o,suker rod high tensil strength so it dont stretch and like spring steel, when you going pipe lining again,36in line to start in Louisiana soon .😮
Softer= less carbon content, more ductile. Harder= more carbon content, higher strength. 7018= more stronger . Downhill = faster & easier for beginners…uphill = stronger weld. I trained on a farm and on diesel truck shop. Only rods we stocked were 6010, 6013, 7018. All you need to glue metal together when you hook up a D8 to test it. 😊
When there is dynamic loading 7018 static loading 6010 .Then to it depends to on your grade of steel which calls for different rod and or a different procedure. Harder material refers to higher tensile strength
Oxy/Propane what excatly is this method used for and what is the advantage, first time I've heard of it .
everyone needs to be in business for themselves at least one time to get to know how the public analizes folks,im 65 yrs in and still going but really slowing down,i,ve worked in tool and die shops,tank shops[flint steel outta tulsa ok] machine shops but what i like the most is a job shop,most every job is different and calls for knowing your metals and how to repair things with the rite rod and tool,metal can go through a tempering process over time,it can also work harden under the rite curimstances,hence farm equipment especially ,you need to know your metals to be able to use the rite rod,for the job.i started when i was 14 tinkering with a welder i could go on and on but dont have time rite now so always remember-welders have the hottest rod
cold rolled steel has less flexibility, [yield strength ?] it will tend to break when bending before hot rolled will.....
I’ve always used 1/8” 6013 for everything with my Lincoln buzz box AC welder. What would you recommend for welding vertical joints? 6013 is no so good for that. I just weld angle iron mostly
got a simple job welding 1/2'' plate to backside of a tractor bucket.Not load bearing ..just replace pad eyes with the plate. i have 6011.question ?? should i preheat or just weld it . thks for sharing..
Not bad advice for guys that will only be welding mild steel.
If I could only choose 2 rods it’d be 7018 3/32” and 309l-16 3/32”
Hmmm…. I’ll look for some. I have 1/8 7014, 6011 and 6013 on the place right now.
I’m about to weld a boom on an excavator, would this rod combo be fine for a boom? It’s right at the collar where the swivel point is. This is the second time having to address this. I was not envolved with either time the steel cracked. I am however the one who needs to fix it right and permanently. Cut a v grove and run a 6010 first then the rest 7018 on the build up.
I would recommend 6013 for non critical or non load bearing applications especially if you are using a welder that only runs A/C current but I like 6010 also, runs much better on D/C but it blows holes in the joints easily if you are not careful. And yes it is not necessary to keep rods in a hot oven. I have rods that are over 30 years old and they weld just fine and always work great for repair work. They are just more likely to cause porosity in your weld beads. But I was just running some 3/32 7018 uphill last night and I was very happy with those beads. The rods I was using have been sitting around in my friends garage in an open container for at least 15 years. I was repairing and old gate with them. Nothing load bearing. Beautiful welds. I really enjoy your videos Austin.
how about some ll09......it is really hard to find.....or even 0l09
Sparklers are the #1 under-rated rod available.
Here in central Michigan we grew up with 6011 instead of 6010, being the different flux is there much difference in these two rods.
one is Ac the other is DC only difference
Great information for me the novice. I have a Hobart AC welder, so 6011 or 6013 and 7018AC?
Yes
Depends on what you’re welding. 6013 for sheet metal. 6011 for at least the root pass on dirty or painted steel if you can’t properly clean it. 7018 on structural applications and when somebody’s life depends on it.
I normally use 6010 +++++ on my ranch most of time.
I was taught to "whip and pause" with 6010 but ive seen others do differently, how do you use it? Do you have to manipualte 6010?
My understanding is that my old school Lincoln AC 225 limits me to 6011, 6013, and 7018ac rods.
Lincoln fleetweld 5P
Which rod would de best for 11 gauge tent wood stove
Do you do any tig bro??
If using an ac welder would you use the 6011 vs the 6010?
when i started to weld my motor skill in the movement wasent so good i did burn thrue a butt load of rods what helped me tredmendus with that was i took the welder handle and i did cut of a rod put a frikken pen to it trained the small movement on a pice of paper and that save alot of headech for me and then i got the mov ment in that way just writing on a pice of paper the movement
Would we go 6011 if using a single phase machine?
Most welding machines out there, that aren't full-on red or blue pro machines won't run 6010. Only the 325-amp Primeweld is rated for it. Their 225 machine is not. I haven't even struck an arc with 6010 yet-but will next time I do something besides play with the TIG setup. I've seen 6010 and 6011 penetration tests that show that the latter just doesn't punch in there like 6010. Love me some 7018.
Hi, Austin! What is your opinion on 7016 and 7015 rods? Looks like these are much less popular in US compared to 7018... that's sad cause these are also really good rods. I had no experience with 6010/6011 rods but from what I heard and saw 7015 must be halfway between 601x and 7018 closer to 601x regarding violent arc character and hence penetration depth while 7016, a gentle version of 7015, is more like 7018 but easier to control and requires less current and arc force setting.
I'm a big 7016 kinda guy
Are you using an old ac buzz box? Some can't hold the arc on 7018. May have to use 6011.
I generally keep 6011, 6013 and 7018r in my garage. I find 6011 and 6013 good in different situations and if dirty. Is 6010 something I should be using?? Mainly farm, equipment and trailer repair
6010,,, is dependent on brand and welder settings. If you make clean prep, it doesn't do bad. If you've gotten by without it, not sure you missed out on anything.
6010 is deep penetration, 7018 is high depositation. 6013 called junkyard rods are easy to weld and float rust out better.
Yup, me too.
How does 7018 work with galvanized metals?
Ive had bad experience with ugly welds with 6011. Im still a beggineer but i found that 7018 and 6013 is best so far, ive tried 6011 vs 6013 and its night and day for how much easier and better the welds of 6013 look compared to 6011, 6011 looks like a mess.
Is it better to use AC or DC with these rods?
Stick welding is used in a heavy duty application is that right? Mig welding is used in a smaller and lighter application?
I use a good 20 mm ammo box for rod storage. 7018 will stay good a long time with no oven. If the can isn't air tight then you will need an oven.
Do what I do . Ammo box or steel box on a Nuwave induction cooktop , turn it on let the rods bake for awhile. I don’t do much stick welding but if I do I just like to put them in a rod oven ahead of time. Personally my experience is , it dries them out and they are easier to weld with. I got a real good deal on a rod oven years ago on eBay and I have a Nuwave induction cooktop on my workbench that has a metal box on it and I turn it on just to keep the rods warm after I baked them in the rod oven. That’s my 2 cents on all this.
@@MrMopar413 sounds good
Basically, oilfield sucker rod is a medium carbon, fairly high tensile steel on the order of 4130 or 4340 ( similar to that used for axles or shafting) but some of it is made for severe service ( hi temp, crooked hole, extreme depth, etc.) and who knows what it is. The manufacturers aren't telling.
6010 and 7018 1/8 & 7018 3/32.... if you asked for 1 I'd say 7018 3/32 because you can build it up.. I do welds on thick steel that a DC gate motor is mounted too so it gets moved 1000s of times a year..it's for automation for the port automation trucker lanes ..it has to penetrate deep and has too be beefy...gets a weld only on one side of a 5 inch square ⬛️ the rest of it floats with motor mounted on it.
7018 down of course but good luck passing a cert test
looks to me like you use Lincoln 'Excalibur' and '5p+'.I won't run any lo-hi other than Lincoln
Restarts with it are effortless, everything else I've tried is a pain
I saw the title and thought, "Betcha it's 6010 and 7018."
I'm just a DIY'er. But, it's nice to know I kinda have a handle on things.
I'll "STICK" with 300 series SS rods. They're expensive, but cheap in the long run
What 7000 series rod can I run with an AC welder? I love 6011s but might want more strength and a better looking weld at times.
7014, 7018, and 7016 if you can get the latter
❤
What do you recommend if my Inverter style welder does not work with 6010?
Run 6011s. High Cellulose Potassium instead of Sodium
I've got a Miller 220 AC/DC and those things aren't designed for 6010/7010 like I run normally because the OCV is too low to whip and pause.
inverter is DC and will run 6010 just fine