Great video, Rus! I have been an automotive electrical and A/C specialist for 46 years and even in my retirement, I still keep my gauges, my vacuum pump, and freon around for family and friends. I used to teach automotive A/C at Universal Technical Institute in Houston in the mid-1980's and Transport Refrigeration for the Semi-trailers. Things have changed a LOT over the years. Even with my high-dollar scanner, there really is just so much I can do at home when diagnosing. Sometimes you just have to send it to the "professionals" and let them earn a living. But it's great to know how and why a system works so as to not fall for some bullshit sales pitch from a mechanic whose idea of diagnostics is to throw parts at it until it's fixed . . .
Thanks Stephen! Yeah something I learned early on when I was still in my 20's was to not be a parts changer, but instead really learn the system to draw an accurate and educated decision on what is really going on. Even though I haven't done this type of work for many years, I have never ever lost that mind set to not be a parts changer. Wish we could have lived closer back in those days to bounce ideas off of each other. Thanks for stopping by cousin, I really appreciate it! Hope you are doing well!
since I see that you have been a master for a long time, can you help me, I changed the compressor on the car and put a new one, when I turn on the air conditioner, the compressor warms up in two minutes and stops working, what is the problem.
@@yuriboyka3892 There are many reasons why an a/c system won't work properly. It's next to impossible to properly diagnose any A/C system based on a very vague and non descriptive comment with any accuracy. A tech needs to actually hook up and see what is going on with the system to determine the issue.
The HVAC module supplies a constant voltage while the ground side is the PWM duty cycle controls the solenoid from the HVAC Module with a good meter % Duty cycle. Same test with computer controlled alternators.
A oscilloscope can show pulse width modulation and so can a multimeter with a duty cycle function as I shown, but neither will allow you to bypass the ECU and control the duty cycle manually as I did in this video. A bi-directional scan tool could possibly allow you to turn off or on the signal, but not manually control it or at least not to my knowledge. That ability is super handy in diagnosing a compressor.
I work on gm's. I have found on the new model pickups if you disconnect the stroke valve it does not set codes but the duty cycle will swing wildly from about 30% to 100%. Almost like the ecm is trying to unstick the valve. So it has to have a load on it to get a steady pwm. A tappy tap from a hammer in the area of the stroke valve helps confirm
Hey Rus.... very instructional😢 video...that's the thing about vehicles nowadays there's a sensor for everything so having the right tools and equipment to diagnose the problems. Between me and you I much prefer the old days where things were basically more straight forward mechanically and electronically but these are the times we're living in so I guess we just have to deal with it. Cheers 🍻
Thanks Stephen and yes, cars are completely dependant on computers and sensors to tell it how to run. A person just about has to have a degree to even work on them. I certainly miss the old days and old ways. Cheers!
They are purposely making cars more difficult for your every day backyard mechanic to fix. So you have no choice but to bring it to the dealer. They are way over complicating things for no other reason than “the more parts on a vehicle that can break, the higher the chance you will bring it back to the dealer”
I'm at 1:37. Can you explain me where the line is for R134A, because that gage confuses me a lot. BTW that is Centigrade not Fahrenheit. What should be a good reading for a Kia soul 2012 4cl 2.0l automatic? Mine says low side:37 and high side 220 with 90 degrees and 20% humidity. is this good reading? thanks ---- the gage you have says:R22, R134A, R404A. then you have 2 lines red and one big black then numbers up and down of those lines.
Pressure is pressure, the different lines under the the pressure reading is giving you temperature correlation to the pressure for different types of refrigerants. These gauges are in celsius only, but I have a celsius to fahrenheit conversion app on my phone. Cheap gauges LOL, obviously straight out of China. Those pressures on your Kia is about what you are looking for, but pressures can get lower or higher depending on outside ambient temperatures but you are definitely in the ball park.
@@SkillSavvyDIY Thank you so much for reply. I need to expand more about this, because I'm a little confuse with all those lines and numbers. ---in the low side: the black line you have it around 500/70. What mean 500 and what 70?
The outer black numbers is in Kpa or Kilopascals (metric) the line of numbers right below those is in PSI or pounds per square in. PSI is the numbers I was looking at. I guess I need to use my other gauges in these videos to prevent confusion.
Awesome video, Rus! This was very well explained, not a mechanic, but it definitely kept me interested to the end! That battery jumper is cool also, have to check it out. Have a fantastic weekend, Cheers brother 🍺 👍
Rus , it seems like everything in the electrical world ( including cell phones ) gets smaller over time EXECPT ! TELEVISION , THEY GET BIGGER ALL THE TIME . WHEN I WAS IN WAL MART PRINTING THOSE PICTURES THE TV. SECTION IS UP TO 85 INCHES. Crazy isn't it ? THANK YOU FRANK FROM MONTANA...
You are absolutely right Frank, everything but TV sets haha! We have a huge one in our living room that I never watch, but my wife does. It's crazy for sure!
Just curious, but method do you use to flush? Our shop uses that flush in a can that comes with a hose and nozzle. Our new R1234yf machine has a flushing option that i believe uses refrigerant to flush the system. I hate the messiness of manual flushing. Also found if a system grenaded and there is rhat pasty antiseize coating inside the pipes, flushing dowsnt seem to do a great job. Had to replace the entire system on a Pilot because of that. I guess flushing could have its own video....lol
@@SkillSavvyDIY Geez I thought you would remember that one, back in day riding in a car without factory AC, you always had 2 60 ac, roll down 2 windows and do 60 MPH
Humm have seen complete video to conclude what is actually trace. But such condition to replace and service hole system it’s out of real diagnose. Good video as per experience…
👍 excellent DYI AC video. Well, done, expertly explained. They do have some by directional scanners usually OEM level that will let you drive the variable displacement compressor, and the percentage And if it happens to be one of the three phase, high voltage electric compressors, the directional scanner will actually allow you to manually override and choose the RPM at which you drive the compressor .
Thank you, I appreciate it! That’s good to know that there are scanners out there with that ability. I plan to pull the trigger on a good scan tool in the near future so I’ll do some homework and see what I can find with that feature. Thanks again, I enjoy your videos as well.
@@SkillSavvyDIY unfortunately, the majority of aftermarket scanners when they do relinquish and allow you to see any HVAC information it sometimes is a limited amount of sensors without two-way communication I’m lucky enough that I work and I’m called into many automotive shops that have factory scanners that give you 100% access Also aftermarket third-party scanners that give you limited access
Good video Rus ! I like this channel THANK YOU FRANK FROM MONTANA.. PS. You should have the package by Tuesday . The p.o. said that , we will see if they are correct or not !
Not all electronic variable displacement compressors are clutchless. This model has a ECV as well as a clutch. Some manufacturers starting putting a clutch on their variable displacement compressors so they would not continually spin if the system was low on or out of refrigerant, because oil could not return back to the compressor which would obviously shorten the life on the compressor. The clutch is only there to protect the compressor on this model and the ECU is controlling the compressor output by PWM. The duty cycle percentage is based on the demand sensed by various sensors. The tool I used was tied between the ECU and the ECV valve on the compressor so you know.
I got a corolla 2012 with 80.000 miles , when i first bought the car ac was freezing cold 35 F 7 yrs ago , dont use that car at all because i got 2 more cars , but now the ac only goes to 60F , a change the expansion valve the drier , and vacuum the system for 60 min, but the ac now is 56 F, do you think i got a worn out compressor 🤔
I replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve. I flushed the 3 refrigerant lines and evaporator. Yes, I drained the shipping oil that came in the new compressor and added 90cc of Pag 46 that it requires.
My S10 zr2 1999 when driving lets up when it wants to. I have a thermometer in the vents and it goes from 50 to 65 to 45 to 60 and just lets up when it wants to buy the compressor is engaged no leaks new fan condenser another e fan. Seems like the high pressure keeps tripping out. What do you think. I have a new expansion valve. I installed orifise with all the screens outwards and the other end towards the evap. I've vacuumed it twice and refilled it. With my pops freon he has on property working AC's for apartment. Anyways.
That's something I would have to actually hook up on in order to find out what is going on. There are a couple of things that come to mind, but there again I would have to actually check it out myself. I didn't quite understand what you were saying about adding freon that your pop has that he uses on apartments? Not sure if I understood that or not, but residential air conditioners use a different refrigerant than automobile systems and the pressures run way different.
@@SkillSavvyDIY I'll make a clear detailed video of gauges hooked up and stuff. But I meant that he gets all the types of freon and I have unlimited tries to fix it. Lol. But some people say my problem is in the dash. But anyway my brother did the gauge's hooked up and said it looks normal. But to m something is tripping the high pressure before it's gets real cool. And sometimes is gets real close to 40* but lets up. I'm not sure why it's letting up. And when the cold air lets up a d kinda rises back towards 60. The compressor is engaged and on .
Honestly it could be a variety of things from too much gap in the compressor clutch do to wear making it come on intermittently to being overcharged causing high head pressure to open the high pressure switch or some other problem that can drive up head pressure such as a partial restriction, dirty condenser, and other potential problems but no way of me knowing without physically seeing it for myself
There are a variety of things that can cause this to happen. Moisture in the system causing the TXV or orifice tube to freeze up after a few minutes of running. A stuck blend door behind the dash causing air to pass over the heater core and evaporator at the same time. A slight restriction in the system. A dirty evaporator causing it to freeze up and force air around instead of through the evaporator, etc. The only way to know for certain is to first hook up gauges and let the pressures tell you where to start looking first. I know this isn't much help but there are various problems that can cause this.
In Addition to what Skill Savvy has already mentioned you might wanna try REplacing the Accumulator Unit, also_ _it too can cause the system to Flip-flop / On sometimes then Off at other times! 😮
People must not buy cars that is costly and difficult to fix like cars with dryer that attached to condenser that can not be replaced separately ask mechanic which car is good and easy to fix before buying it I have Nissans and I am not happy with them to replace PVC valve the is about 10 dollars I have to pay 500 dollars to replace it because there is no way to reach back or the engine the head has to come off before changing PVC Valve some other parts are designed the same way.
I swaped the ac compressor on my 05 mustang gt, the ac is nice and cool at cruising speed, but on the highway the air still blows but is no longer cold, do you have any tips on that issue?
It could be a few things causing that and really needs to be monitored with gauges as it's being driven at hwy speeds to see what the pressures are doing, but one common reason is being slightly under charged. You are running at higher RPMs at highway speeds and if the system is slightly undercharged, the low side pressure could be dropping to a level that causes the low side pressure switch to cycle the compressor off, but once the RPMs are reduced at cruising speeds, then it's just enough pressure to keep the compressor engaged longer and producing colder air.
99% of techs will sell the customer a compressor when all it really required was a new orifice tube and fresh pag oil 😂…watching the pressure gauges is the best way to tell….if you’ve got massive pressure differentials and surging head pressure on the high pressure side, it’s a an obstruction in the system (most likely the orifice tube)
Yes, restrictions show just the opposite as what the pressures were showing on this car in the video. A restricted orifice tube or a restricted expansion valve are the normal suspects when restricted, but not always. A very low suction pressure (often in a vacuum) along with high head pressures is most certainly a restriction but any tech worth his money will know this, and any honest tech will do the right thing by the customer, but unfortunately we live in a world full of scam artist.
So here's the issue im having on my 2010 chevy equinox. I was first told my compressor was bad because the air was blowing hot. Ordered the compressor and refrigerant and had it changed. After changing it, still no cold air. Had the pressure switch changed and the expansion valve. Still no cold air. So i was told the condenser needed to be changed. Ordered the condenser had it put on. Still no cold air. Took it to a radiator shop that specializes in ac they did a flush and refill, still no cold air. I was left without a real diagnosis there. So i take it to another specialist there im told that the compressor is bad, and it's not pumping how it should. So i get another compressor installed. And guess what still no cold air. So at this point i have no clue what else could be causing me not to have cold air. O yea i also had the blend door actuator changed. The radiator shop said they checked the fuses and relay and they were good. So any help would be greatly appreciated
It is highly unlikely that you would have 3 defective compressors back to back. I would have to actually hook up to the car myself to give you a solid answer on the problem. Just way to many things can cause an AC unit not to cool properly. I hope you find a shop that knows what they are doing.
YOU need to have the power to compressor , fans , ac sensors checked out . that should be one of the first steps. you might have a broken wire or short or connector are bad good luck .
@@SkillSavvyDIY I love working on this stuff. I’ve done it on the side for a few years and have done hvac for the past 2-3 years and I’m done with hvac. HVAc industry is so corrupt. I just quit my job and I’m trying to dedicate 100 percent on automotive heating and air doing something I enjoy.
A bad control valve will have the same symptom and they go bad very often. It's a lot cheaper to replace a defective $30 control valve than an expensive compressor and it is a lot easier.
Yes I said that in the video but I also explained why I would never change just the control valve if it was the problem, especially on a 9 year old compressor
@@SkillSavvyDIY the same can be argued about putting a $300 compressor on a 9 year old Nissan when the only problem was the valve. If the system has never been exposed to the elements, the compressor will probably outlast your engine, definitely your transmission.
Outlast the engine? 😂 transmission 😂 A/C systems develop leaks, often within the first 4 to 5 years. When they leak they also loose oil and guess what happens next. The beginning of the end for that compressor unless it’s addressed right away before too much wear happens. Your argument is not valid in the real world. This 9 year old compressor had a good life. Much better than many.
@SkillSavvyDIY I have two vehicles that are 11 and 12 years old. One had a leak at 6 years that was fixed. Both are over 112k miles, original ac compressors, and still running strong. Nissan transmissions, especially the new ones, are being scrapped at 100k.
@@jggjj I have literally worked on hundreds and hundreds of vehicles that had major AC problems that were only 5 to 8 years old. Some were even newer but regardless of all that, I would not ever replace just the control valve on a compressor that is 9 years old, nor would most shops or dealerships. The compressor was chattering as I said in the video and not pumping hardly any, but she sure is blowing cold now.
I think you worry too much for a little freon to the air. Thousands of car leak freon every day and even the shop release it to the air when their machine is broken but have you there paying to recovering. Are they going to tell you the machine is Broken? They think about money, and everyone is thinking about saving and make money.
It's not about being worried, it's about being educated. The penalties for any violations of the Clean Air Act include: Civil fines of up to $44,539 per day per violation (as of 2017) Criminal prosecution in US Federal Court (5 years, or double if it’s a second offense) Confiscation of violating substances (refrigerants) Loss of certification to handle refrigerants In addition to the Clean Air Act, which is a federal law, many state and local governments impose additional restrictions. These regulations may be equally or more stringent than those of the Clean Air Act. There is also a sizeable reward for whistleblowers. Of course cars, homes, and buildings leak refrigerant, but laws are put into place to account and minimize this by putting timelines on repairs depending on the size of the leak. It is the act of purposely releasing refrigerant that gets you into trouble. It is impossible to prevent all leaks that happen daily throughout the world and that's exactly why new environmentally friendly refrigerants have and are being developed. I just hope they get it right this time. I can't tell you how many systems I have retrofitted from R12 to R134A through the 1990's to save the ozone and it's like an instant replay because R134A is now being replaced with R1234YF to reduce greenhouse gasses.
Wow finally someone who did an automotive AC video that knows what he’s talking about. Definitely subscribing to your channel sir.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video, Rus! I have been an automotive electrical and A/C specialist for 46 years and even in my retirement, I still keep my gauges, my vacuum pump, and freon around for family and friends. I used to teach automotive A/C at Universal Technical Institute in Houston in the mid-1980's and Transport Refrigeration for the Semi-trailers. Things have changed a LOT over the years. Even with my high-dollar scanner, there really is just so much I can do at home when diagnosing. Sometimes you just have to send it to the "professionals" and let them earn a living. But it's great to know how and why a system works so as to not fall for some bullshit sales pitch from a mechanic whose idea of diagnostics is to throw parts at it until it's fixed . . .
Thanks Stephen! Yeah something I learned early on when I was still in my 20's was to not be a parts changer, but instead really learn the system to draw an accurate and educated decision on what is really going on. Even though I haven't done this type of work for many years, I have never ever lost that mind set to not be a parts changer. Wish we could have lived closer back in those days to bounce ideas off of each other. Thanks for stopping by cousin, I really appreciate it! Hope you are doing well!
since I see that you have been a master for a long time, can you help me, I changed the compressor on the car and put a new one, when I turn on the air conditioner, the compressor warms up in two minutes and stops working, what is the problem.
@@yuriboyka3892 There are many reasons why an a/c system won't work properly. It's next to impossible to properly diagnose any A/C system based on a very vague and non descriptive comment with any accuracy. A tech needs to actually hook up and see what is going on with the system to determine the issue.
I've learned more from your channel than anywhere else. Really appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to more of your amazing videos!
Awesome, thank you!
The HVAC module supplies a constant voltage while the ground side is the PWM duty cycle controls the solenoid from the HVAC Module with a good meter % Duty cycle. Same test with computer controlled alternators.
Hi!
Quick question: qoild an oscilloscope show the same signal?
Thanks for the instruction.
Cheers.
A oscilloscope can show pulse width modulation and so can a multimeter with a duty cycle function as I shown, but neither will allow you to bypass the ECU and control the duty cycle manually as I did in this video. A bi-directional scan tool could possibly allow you to turn off or on the signal, but not manually control it or at least not to my knowledge. That ability is super handy in diagnosing a compressor.
@@SkillSavvyDIY Great info! Thanks!
I work on gm's. I have found on the new model pickups if you disconnect the stroke valve it does not set codes but the duty cycle will swing wildly from about 30% to 100%. Almost like the ecm is trying to unstick the valve. So it has to have a load on it to get a steady pwm. A tappy tap from a hammer in the area of the stroke valve helps confirm
Hey Rus.... very instructional😢 video...that's the thing about vehicles nowadays there's a sensor for everything so having the right tools and equipment to diagnose the problems. Between me and you I much prefer the old days where things were basically more straight forward mechanically and electronically but these are the times we're living in so I guess we just have to deal with it. Cheers 🍻
Thanks Stephen and yes, cars are completely dependant on computers and sensors to tell it how to run. A person just about has to have a degree to even work on them. I certainly miss the old days and old ways. Cheers!
They are purposely making cars more difficult for your every day backyard mechanic to fix. So you have no choice but to bring it to the dealer. They are way over complicating things for no other reason than “the more parts on a vehicle that can break, the higher the chance you will bring it back to the dealer”
I'm at 1:37. Can you explain me where the line is for R134A, because that gage confuses me a lot. BTW that is Centigrade not Fahrenheit. What should be a good reading for a Kia soul 2012 4cl 2.0l automatic? Mine says low side:37 and high side 220 with 90 degrees and 20% humidity. is this good reading? thanks
---- the gage you have says:R22, R134A, R404A. then you have 2 lines red and one big black then numbers up and down of those lines.
Pressure is pressure, the different lines under the the pressure reading is giving you temperature correlation to the pressure for different types of refrigerants. These gauges are in celsius only, but I have a celsius to fahrenheit conversion app on my phone. Cheap gauges LOL, obviously straight out of China. Those pressures on your Kia is about what you are looking for, but pressures can get lower or higher depending on outside ambient temperatures but you are definitely in the ball park.
@@SkillSavvyDIY Thank you so much for reply. I need to expand more about this, because I'm a little confuse with all those lines and numbers.
---in the low side: the black line you have it around 500/70. What mean 500 and what 70?
The outer black numbers is in Kpa or Kilopascals (metric) the line of numbers right below those is in PSI or pounds per square in. PSI is the numbers I was looking at. I guess I need to use my other gauges in these videos to prevent confusion.
Awesome video, Rus! This was very well explained, not a mechanic, but it definitely kept me interested to the end! That battery jumper is cool also, have to check it out. Have a fantastic weekend, Cheers brother 🍺 👍
Thank you Bat! I appreciate you watching and you never know, the information could come in handy one day. Cheers!
These are fantastic tips for a/c. Thanks so much it's always great to learn from experienced people.
Thank you, I appreciate that and you're welcome. I enjoy sharing what I know.
Rus , it seems like everything in the electrical world ( including cell phones ) gets smaller over time EXECPT ! TELEVISION , THEY GET BIGGER ALL THE TIME . WHEN I WAS IN WAL MART PRINTING THOSE PICTURES THE TV. SECTION IS UP TO 85 INCHES. Crazy isn't it ? THANK YOU FRANK FROM MONTANA...
You are absolutely right Frank, everything but TV sets haha! We have a huge one in our living room that I never watch, but my wife does. It's crazy for sure!
I keep forgetting to log into this channel before commenting haha
Was working on mine yesterday!
It's that time of year for sure! Thanks for watching!
Just curious, but method do you use to flush? Our shop uses that flush in a can that comes with a hose and nozzle. Our new R1234yf machine has a flushing option that i believe uses refrigerant to flush the system. I hate the messiness of manual flushing. Also found if a system grenaded and there is rhat pasty antiseize coating inside the pipes, flushing dowsnt seem to do a great job. Had to replace the entire system on a Pilot because of that. I guess flushing could have its own video....lol
As of now I’m using a flush bottle with liquid ac flush. A bit messy but I try to capture as much as I can with shop rags.
Great video Rus, very informative. Do you know anything about 2 - 60 ac :)
Thanks Lance, I appreciate you watching. Not sure what you are talking about with 2 - 60 ac?
@@SkillSavvyDIY Geez I thought you would remember that one, back in day riding in a car without factory AC, you always had 2 60 ac, roll down 2 windows and do 60 MPH
@@SleeperBBQ Yeah, seems like I do remember that! Dang your old 😂
Humm have seen complete video to conclude what is actually trace. But such condition to replace and service hole system it’s out of real diagnose. Good video as per experience…
👍 excellent DYI AC video.
Well, done, expertly explained.
They do have some by directional scanners usually OEM level that will let you drive the variable displacement compressor, and the percentage
And if it happens to be one of the three phase, high voltage electric compressors, the directional scanner will actually allow you to manually override and choose the RPM at which you drive the compressor .
Thank you, I appreciate it! That’s good to know that there are scanners out there with that ability. I plan to pull the trigger on a good scan tool in the near future so I’ll do some homework and see what I can find with that feature. Thanks again, I enjoy your videos as well.
@@SkillSavvyDIY unfortunately, the majority of aftermarket scanners when they do relinquish and allow you to see any HVAC information it sometimes is a limited amount of sensors without two-way communication
I’m lucky enough that I work and I’m called into many automotive shops that have factory scanners that give you 100% access
Also aftermarket third-party scanners that give you limited access
Yeah, that's been my experience with most 3rd party scanners as well.
Good video Rus ! I like this channel THANK YOU FRANK FROM MONTANA.. PS. You should have the package by Tuesday . The p.o. said that , we will see if they are correct or not !
Thanks Frank, I'll be looking for the package and thank you!
How is the jump starter in the video? Is it worth buying?
I actually had to use it a few weeks ago and it worked really well! Surprised me
@@SkillSavvyDIY Thanks！
Maybe I missed something. you should never pulse width modulate a clutch. Is this a variable displacement compressor?
Not all electronic variable displacement compressors are clutchless. This model has a ECV as well as a clutch. Some manufacturers starting putting a clutch on their variable displacement compressors so they would not continually spin if the system was low on or out of refrigerant, because oil could not return back to the compressor which would obviously shorten the life on the compressor. The clutch is only there to protect the compressor on this model and the ECU is controlling the compressor output by PWM. The duty cycle percentage is based on the demand sensed by various sensors. The tool I used was tied between the ECU and the ECV valve on the compressor so you know.
I got a corolla 2012 with 80.000 miles , when i first bought the car ac was freezing cold 35 F 7 yrs ago , dont use that car at all because i got 2 more cars , but now the ac only goes to 60F , a change the expansion valve the drier , and vacuum the system for 60 min, but the ac now is 56 F, do you think i got a worn out compressor 🤔
I couldn't say for sure without checking the car out like I did on this one, but it certainly could be.
Did you flush the entire system and add the right type and amount of pag oil?
I replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve. I flushed the 3 refrigerant lines and evaporator. Yes, I drained the shipping oil that came in the new compressor and added 90cc of Pag 46 that it requires.
Excellent video. I have a 2004 Lexus Gx470 if u ever encounter one I would luv to see ur video on it. T.u.
Thank you! If I ever work on one I will most likely do a video on it
Great video and knowledge!
Thank you, I appreciate you watching!
Great job and video thank you.
Thank you too!
My S10 zr2 1999 when driving lets up when it wants to. I have a thermometer in the vents and it goes from 50 to 65 to 45 to 60 and just lets up when it wants to buy the compressor is engaged no leaks new fan condenser another e fan. Seems like the high pressure keeps tripping out. What do you think. I have a new expansion valve. I installed orifise with all the screens outwards and the other end towards the evap. I've vacuumed it twice and refilled it. With my pops freon he has on property working AC's for apartment. Anyways.
That's something I would have to actually hook up on in order to find out what is going on. There are a couple of things that come to mind, but there again I would have to actually check it out myself. I didn't quite understand what you were saying about adding freon that your pop has that he uses on apartments? Not sure if I understood that or not, but residential air conditioners use a different refrigerant than automobile systems and the pressures run way different.
@@SkillSavvyDIY I'll make a clear detailed video of gauges hooked up and stuff. But I meant that he gets all the types of freon and I have unlimited tries to fix it. Lol. But some people say my problem is in the dash. But anyway my brother did the gauge's hooked up and said it looks normal. But to m something is tripping the high pressure before it's gets real cool. And sometimes is gets real close to 40* but lets up. I'm not sure why it's letting up. And when the cold air lets up a d kinda rises back towards 60. The compressor is engaged and on .
Honestly it could be a variety of things from too much gap in the compressor clutch do to wear making it come on intermittently to being overcharged causing high head pressure to open the high pressure switch or some other problem that can drive up head pressure such as a partial restriction, dirty condenser, and other potential problems but no way of me knowing without physically seeing it for myself
My son has a 2006 Silverado 1500 the AC cools perfect when first turned on but after few miles is blows warm air ..what could be?
There are a variety of things that can cause this to happen. Moisture in the system causing the TXV or orifice tube to freeze up after a few minutes of running. A stuck blend door behind the dash causing air to pass over the heater core and evaporator at the same time. A slight restriction in the system. A dirty evaporator causing it to freeze up and force air around instead of through the evaporator, etc. The only way to know for certain is to first hook up gauges and let the pressures tell you where to start looking first. I know this isn't much help but there are various problems that can cause this.
In Addition to what Skill Savvy has already mentioned you might wanna try REplacing the Accumulator Unit, also_ _it too can cause the system to Flip-flop / On sometimes then Off at other times! 😮
Great video！
Thank you!
What if it is just the valve and not the compressor.??
If you watched all the video then you would hear where I addressed that, and why I replace the compressor regardless
What is the brand name for the battery charger
I put a link to it in the video description area below the video.
Agreed really great video
Thank you!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video indeed !!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
People must not buy cars that is costly and difficult to fix like cars with dryer that attached to condenser that can not be replaced separately ask mechanic which car is good and easy to fix before buying it I have Nissans and I am not happy with them to replace PVC valve the is about 10 dollars I have to pay 500 dollars to replace it because there is no way to reach back or the engine the head has to come off before changing PVC Valve some other parts are designed the same way.
I swaped the ac compressor on my 05 mustang gt, the ac is nice and cool at cruising speed, but on the highway the air still blows but is no longer cold, do you have any tips on that issue?
It could be a few things causing that and really needs to be monitored with gauges as it's being driven at hwy speeds to see what the pressures are doing, but one common reason is being slightly under charged. You are running at higher RPMs at highway speeds and if the system is slightly undercharged, the low side pressure could be dropping to a level that causes the low side pressure switch to cycle the compressor off, but once the RPMs are reduced at cruising speeds, then it's just enough pressure to keep the compressor engaged longer and producing colder air.
Just got a sub. Thanks for video
Thank you, I appreciate it much!
99% of techs will sell the customer a compressor when all it really required was a new orifice tube and fresh pag oil 😂…watching the pressure gauges is the best way to tell….if you’ve got massive pressure differentials and surging head pressure on the high pressure side, it’s a an obstruction in the system (most likely the orifice tube)
Yes, restrictions show just the opposite as what the pressures were showing on this car in the video. A restricted orifice tube or a restricted expansion valve are the normal suspects when restricted, but not always. A very low suction pressure (often in a vacuum) along with high head pressures is most certainly a restriction but any tech worth his money will know this, and any honest tech will do the right thing by the customer, but unfortunately we live in a world full of scam artist.
So here's the issue im having on my 2010 chevy equinox. I was first told my compressor was bad because the air was blowing hot. Ordered the compressor and refrigerant and had it changed. After changing it, still no cold air. Had the pressure switch changed and the expansion valve. Still no cold air. So i was told the condenser needed to be changed. Ordered the condenser had it put on. Still no cold air. Took it to a radiator shop that specializes in ac they did a flush and refill, still no cold air. I was left without a real diagnosis there. So i take it to another specialist there im told that the compressor is bad, and it's not pumping how it should. So i get another compressor installed. And guess what still no cold air. So at this point i have no clue what else could be causing me not to have cold air. O yea i also had the blend door actuator changed. The radiator shop said they checked the fuses and relay and they were good. So any help would be greatly appreciated
It is highly unlikely that you would have 3 defective compressors back to back. I would have to actually hook up to the car myself to give you a solid answer on the problem. Just way to many things can cause an AC unit not to cool properly. I hope you find a shop that knows what they are doing.
YOU need to have the power to compressor , fans , ac sensors checked out . that should be one of the first steps. you might have a broken wire or short or connector are bad good luck .
It pulses the ground on some vehicles
Exactly right
@@SkillSavvyDIY I love working on this stuff. I’ve done it on the side for a few years and have done hvac for the past 2-3 years and I’m done with hvac. HVAc industry is so corrupt. I just quit my job and I’m trying to dedicate 100 percent on automotive heating and air doing something I enjoy.
Good deal! I enjoy it too. I’m retired but I still help folks out
A bad control valve will have the same symptom and they go bad very often. It's a lot cheaper to replace a defective $30 control valve than an expensive compressor and it is a lot easier.
Yes I said that in the video but I also explained why I would never change just the control valve if it was the problem, especially on a 9 year old compressor
@@SkillSavvyDIY the same can be argued about putting a $300 compressor on a 9 year old Nissan when the only problem was the valve. If the system has never been exposed to the elements, the compressor will probably outlast your engine, definitely your transmission.
Outlast the engine? 😂 transmission 😂 A/C systems develop leaks, often within the first 4 to 5 years. When they leak they also loose oil and guess what happens next. The beginning of the end for that compressor unless it’s addressed right away before too much wear happens. Your argument is not valid in the real world. This 9 year old compressor had a good life. Much better than many.
@SkillSavvyDIY I have two vehicles that are 11 and 12 years old. One had a leak at 6 years that was fixed. Both are over 112k miles, original ac compressors, and still running strong. Nissan transmissions, especially the new ones, are being scrapped at 100k.
@@jggjj I have literally worked on hundreds and hundreds of vehicles that had major AC problems that were only 5 to 8 years old. Some were even newer but regardless of all that, I would not ever replace just the control valve on a compressor that is 9 years old, nor would most shops or dealerships. The compressor was chattering as I said in the video and not pumping hardly any, but she sure is blowing cold now.
I think you worry too much for a little freon to the air. Thousands of car leak freon every day and even the shop release it to the air when their machine is broken but have you there paying to recovering. Are they going to tell you the machine is Broken? They think about money, and everyone is thinking about saving and make money.
It's not about being worried, it's about being educated.
The penalties for any violations of the Clean Air Act include:
Civil fines of up to $44,539 per day per violation (as of 2017)
Criminal prosecution in US Federal Court (5 years, or double if it’s a second offense)
Confiscation of violating substances (refrigerants)
Loss of certification to handle refrigerants In addition to the Clean Air Act, which is a federal law, many state and local governments impose additional restrictions.
These regulations may be equally or more stringent than those of the Clean Air Act. There is also a sizeable reward for whistleblowers.
Of course cars, homes, and buildings leak refrigerant, but laws are put into place to account and minimize this by putting timelines on repairs depending on the size of the leak. It is the act of purposely releasing refrigerant that gets you into trouble. It is impossible to prevent all leaks that happen daily throughout the world and that's exactly why new environmentally friendly refrigerants have and are being developed. I just hope they get it right this time. I can't tell you how many systems I have retrofitted from R12 to R134A through the 1990's to save the ozone and it's like an instant replay because R134A is now being replaced with R1234YF to reduce greenhouse gasses.
If a shop is too cheap to fix or replace their acr machine and blow off refrigerant, do you really want to take your vehicle there?
@@DiscretesignalsExactly