Standard Finishing Carpentry Techniques in New Zealand
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- How we do finishing carpentry.
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Just a small tip, when you doing door trims, start with the top one, same as you did.. BUT, when you do the side, just flip the trim, frontside against the wall, then hit top trim edge with the sidetrim.. it will leave a mark, no need for measurements. Perfect length every time
Is there a video for this
@@michaelrobinsoni5516 take your length of architrave cut a miter offer it up, miter cut down, mark at the top of the head , done no tape needed.
I'd jus mark quirks and measure to my short point. Then you can cut them all depending on size
@@michaelrobinsoni5516 look up Robin Clevetts video on architrave and skirting where he shows this method. He's one hell of a carpenter.
@@SteS The only method I have seen Robin doing is marking the frame then he marks the miter short sides for the top and marks the sides short sides then saws them all and miter glues them together on the floor.
With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
Scott Brown Carpentry Best TH-cam Channel Out Today If You Ever Need A Carpenter From Canada Hit Me Up *Laughing*
You really do produce superb content. Interesting, informative, music that enhances not overpowers, calm speech without shouting to camera. Quite frankly, it's masterful. Bravo
Scott brown your videos bring me joy keep the the great work !!
I can watching your films all thay long. Greetings from Poland
In Norway we use the angle grinder to cope skirtings. Same method you use with a sanding attatchement. Defiently try it! Will never use a coping saw again!
A craftsman who knows how to do a proper coped mitre joint. Good on you, mate. Well done.
Lol you'd never make any money with the amount of time he took. Get a dang jigsaw to cut the copes...
Its interesting, here in canada the most common way would be to apply plaster and then apply baseboard before the flooring is installed so the painters comes in and spray everything (makes for a really nice finish, no brush or roller marks) after that we have the florring installed and then the quarter rounds at the base of the baseboard. Its very common for production house builder to do it in this order
Another informative video Scott,thank you from the UK.👍👍
11:35 nice that you’re thinking of “maintenance” (future proofing) the install for other workers or homeowners if need to get access. Pretty nice of you👍🏻, and some ppl don’t think about this when installing, but imo….they should.
Cheers✌🏻
Well that's me having just watched every exciting episode in order. About a month im picking. Not sure what I'm supposed to do now!
Done a couple jobs where we installed baseboard before the flooring. Held it up the thickness of the T&G with plastic shims, off the subfloor. Worked out great.
10:13 great tip. Somebody on my house nailed through the cavity sliders removable timber bits. Was a massive pain to get off and paint the door.
I was using this scotia for the first time over the summer and I honestly spent about an hour just coping and recutting offcuts just trying to figure out how they join. I found a raking ceiling to be particularly challenging. Great tips scott this video would have been helpful 3 months ago 😅
Love your work Scott including your smooth music keep up the great work.
Hey Scott, maybe this tip is useful, so what i like to do when i have architraves, i use an angle grinder with a flap disc to cut the back pieces out. Maybe its useful hope you have a great day, greets from the Netherlands!!
I like that method too. I think Scott has to minimize airborne dust.
@@f.demascio1857 yeh true, its really really nice to use.
Great content. It’s always a treat to watch your skills in practical applications,
Hey 👋 we got the same problem here in Norway timber is going up 25/40 % and there’s shortage. But the forests aren’t being cut. Prices of timber is less then in 2018. Somewhere someone is getting the big 💵💵💵
Great video Scott! You've inspired me to film an off grid cottage build my father and I are doing, starting in two weeks! So learning some video editing tips from you is helpful ;)
I think you could release a video of paint drying and I would watch it Scott! 😂😂🙈
I cut on the flat at 35 degrees on the deck and 30 on the bevel that is how I cut large spring crown with a 10 " slider... but I do cope with a flap disc.... great job 👏
Looking forward to when you upload content for an Upper Floor Extension. This will make for excellent viewing. I have done a lot of upper-floor extensions, it'll be exciting to watch you show the folks how it all goes down. 👍
Try the flap disk on a grinder mate my go to now
Once you try the flap disk you’ll never go back
Really love your work Scott! You inspired me to really think about stuff I can add to my home. I already did a deck and some shelves. :)
That phallic clamp was interesting 🤣
Always great to watch SBC.. interesting re supplies becoming ‘thin on the ground’.👍😎
Good to see you Aucklanders are having a shortage too, we've been fighting it in the far north since Covid. Its so damn hard to get materials up here. Govt. #1 was used in not just state housing, but all government buildings like schools, libraries, council buildings and so on, but a lot of non govt houses had it as well. A LOT of the houses in the Far North here have it because it was cheaper at the time
Lumber issues here in Canada & the US as well...but there is enough to be found, just you get sticker shock when you pay for it. 8'x4'x5/8" OSB sheets 18 months ago were about $13cad, the latest price I saw last week was $92cad!! Stick framing is around 5x prices 18 months ago... pressure treated is about 4x 18months ago...
How come you put your Arcs & Skirts on before plastering ? Here in the U.K. we doing all trim work after the plasters have finished
It's done that way so there is less chance of movement or cracking of plaster by fixing timber work after the plastering has been done, also with the timer work in place the plastering helps take out any imperfections around the timber
Been another kiwi qualified carpenter, I also generally put finish trim on first, otherwise in the internal cnrs it's been pack out of square from plaster, and tape joins are usually not flat after plaster, so u either have to sand it flat, scratch it out or plane the back of the skirts, otherwise it looks wavey.
Plasterers prefer to you to do it after them, but that's cause they are to lazy to Sand it properly
Basically comes down to choice. Do it first and the finishing becomes the plasterer's problem; do it after and it becomes the carpenter's problem. Generally builders/carpenters here in NZ don't give a damn about the ultimate "best practice".
Ideally you would wait for plasterers to go through first, but sometimes with delays you can't wait
As an ex plasterer and now builder I definitely prefer to wait.
Because he's rushing the job or he's struggling to get a plasterer... normal way is Plasterer then trim work then paint..
More great vids Scott, I’ve got little blocks of timber with the 3mm and 5 mm rebates I use to place in the corners of the door frames/jams, to mark your quirks, then same as you cut your head, 45 the legs flip them upside down and mark the short side and a set of arcs done in minutes 👍🏽🏴
Congratulations Charles
9:23...the gesture that finishes whatever sentence you've started...
Glad to see that gesture is the same with carpenters all over the world. Lol
Great info, Scott. Maybe I’ll get another visit down-under sometime! loved it when I visited a few years ago - (Christchurch)
Get yourself some 2 part mitre mate Scott, it's an adhesive and activator so you can preassemble your arc then just tack them in place
PS we always skim first then fit second fix trims after
Good video. Very informative. People tell me that the lumber shortage will be over in 6 to 12 months.
2:20 you always get those random tradies with the dad jokes around the yard lol
Do you want any coffee with that milk? Only kidding, keep up the good work and thanks for the vids
Wait a freakin minute! No SMOKO TIME!! Scott, what the hey!!!!
I’ve never seen anyone apply trim before plaster work was finished. Interesting.
Personally I like putting them on before as sometimes the plaster isn’t perfect and can create imperfections or slight waves in the wall, making it an annoyance to put the trim up, also eliminates the risk of you damaging any of the plasterers work on accident while putting up the trims
@Phelebas yeah haha they hate it
It's easier for the plasterer one way... easier for the builder the other way.
I love putting trim on first.
I also like to put mine on first as it stops the plasterers building out the corners to far and keeps them on point
@@harry7344 haha as a drywaller I can confirm. I hate mudding up against trim. It doesn't make sense to me especially on low profile trims. Because you have to build the mud out on inside and outside corners, so then you have to build it out over the trim? Idk I never find it looks good. I'll usually take the trim off even if the builder didn't haha.
Loving your videos recently
Good job. That's how I run crown (I'm in Florida). We run crown and base after the walls are finished though.
Love the tips, as i just happen to be busy fitting new cornices (scotia) and architraves.
But an oddball question: do you leave instructions on how to remove that top piece of architrave for the cavity door? Or how will the someone other than you know to unscrew the top only and gently pry off that piece without wrecking things? Or is that a standard approach and most craftspersons know to look for those screws first?
I use a grinder with a fine grit flap disc to burn off the material instead of using a hand saw, give it a try, it is very effective ;)
I remember a couple years back myself and my mentor had to return to a job which had some pocket doors. The tenant had hung this really nice picture up on the wall and didn't realise that when he put the screw in the wall for a hanging point that a 32mm drywall screw was driven into the pocket door and was unable to close the door, absolutely hilarious and we all laughed our heads off 🤣
I like all your video's👍🏼👍🏼
@Mark ?
You're putting trim up before the plasterer gets there? And Plasterboard is still getting ripped out?
Scott upping his coffee game with the chemex
The square head screw is called a Roberson screw Scott. Very very...VERY common here in Canada
Simply called a square drive here in NZ by every single person here... except Scott in this video.
The details.....give me the fizz👍🏻
Hey Scott, if you get the chance could you guys please do a video on making a storey rod and doing a set out for weatherboard?
I'm a 3rd year carpentry apprentice and I really appreciate the skills you teach in your videos. Keep up the great work!
Cheers!
I use a Drimmel with a wood cutting disc to do my coping cuts on skirts/scotia. Its a bit quicker and neater than a coping saw.
Hey Scott. Consider using pocket hole screws on the back of the trim or some GRK style torx bit trim screws on the top.
Keep up the great work.....road to 300
Hey Scott look up using a grinder to do the first cut you have made. Much easier and cleaner with proper grinding disc. You miter 45 then grind away the back.
Another exciting episode, always great!
In Canada we call it base board, casing, and crown molding.
Same in the States
different countries different names.......here the dry wall or base board is called gib....pronounced jib
@@daver7867 - base board is skirting, not dry wall / plaster board / Gib, but yeah, we call things different names to other countries. I think the name scotia is unique to NZ / Oz.
@@richardbaron7106 my bad....lol
@@cmmartti - that's correct and plasterboard is one word as well, but it was late when I replied (that's my excuse, lol).
As someone who has family in France, UK & USA, I often interchange different terms depending on which relative I'm talking with, but still forget to switch out of Kiwi sometimes.
Crown molding in the UK is called Coving, although if it's really fancy, it's called Cornice (plus the Brits spell molding as moulding).
I actually prefer to use US terminology, because it makes more sense to me.
love your works!!!!take care!!!
Brilliant Scott
Hi, for 30 years I did scribing just like this, however a couple of years ago I learnt a new technique using a grinder and a flap wheel - much quicker, more accurate, and only one tool required. I'm sure there must be videos on TH-cam about how to do it this way, check it out.
Came here to say exactly this. I had to do tons of Scotia at a recent reno, with a very complicated profile, and it went a MILLION times faster with a grinder/flap disk 🤙 it's the only way I'll do it now
TH-cam has changed the way people do a ton of stuff.
You can make a jig and attach it to the saw to get the combo mitre for crown molding. Do a video showing that. First was shown this in trade school. Great trick
Interesting that you put the scotia molding up before the plastering. Do they caulk that seam?
25 mm lol aka 1”
I love watching canada, uk, australia, and new zealand construction videos. Despite years of using metrics, construction and wood working, imperial will always be used in some shape or form.
The original house was built pre-metric, so it’s to match existing I’d say.
We have a lumber (timber) shortage in Canada. I'll say that again, Canada has a shortage of wood products, particularly construction materials. It's insane what the prices are now for simple things like a 2x4.
And the quality has slipped too
Great videos scott
Yeah another video been waiting all week cool
I built that pergola/deck inside South Pacific Timber’s! Every bit of timber on it from the posts to the boards is all vitex! I think... I don’t remember m😂
How come you don’t do skirting and scotia after it’s been plastered?, when the joins get filled and external angles get troweled, will it bulge over all the trim?
try using your pencil to leave a line on your cut edge as a guide, it's the way I do it and it's work for me :-)
You're not alone in your problems getting lumber. Lumber prices here in the US are through the roof probably up about 300% year over year and supplies are low.
in the uk its stayed at the same price which is nice
Well worth the wait
That celebration ahahaah 5:55 wawawewa
Scott you should get some branded fold out rulers going on the website!
More trim videos Scott they’re too good !!
I literally brought one of those tension rods Monday
Your Makita Mitre Saw with the subtitles on is a “Mitosaur” the “Makita Mitosauraus Rex”
Great work as always. Could we have a kitchen reno ??
I’ve found an easier way to measure architraves,
Measure inside of jamb to inside of jamb + 90
=long point to long point of arc
Then measure up whole house and cut them all
90 = 42+42+3+3
42mm arcs, 3mm quirks
I’m in aus though, so arc sizes might be different
scott you should try the milwaukee 305mm drop saw in only ways 21.5 kg and it is a great saw you should give it ago
As a joiner in the UK, I use a pair of compasses to scribe the skirting boards in rather than cut them 45° and cope the back out
Can you explain that again to a beginner? (asking for a friend...)
@@whatwouldbenice the compass pointy side follows the contours of the fixed material and the compass pencil side drawers it onto the to be cut material as an exact transfer of ins and outs, the problem with cutting at 45° is that it doesn't allow for if the fixed material is at an angle (lets say the skirting is leaning little) whereas the compasses follow what is.
@@SimonX07 fantastic tip mate I will remember that cheers
I do it the same too but just push an off cut of the skirting against the already fixed piece, draw the line up your piece to be cut then draw round the mould cope it out.follows the contour of the wall everytime. Like you say skirtings very rarely perfectly plum to a wall.Such a simple method but hard to explain see so many chippies over here in the UK cut 45’s first then cope out and it never fits first time.
@@gmafh1315 are you doing trim before or after mud?
What are those metal wire looking clamps called that you use to secure the corners before fastening them into position ??
Nice waist coat/body warmer.
Hey Scott you need to buy a Collins coping foot your jig saw they are on amazon for about $50. Always enjoy your videos 📐🗜🇨🇦👍V0r1n2
He has one. He showed it in the last remodel. I was hoping he'd use it in this video.
Instead of using a coping saw, would you ever consider using a cordless angle grinding tool? We found it much faster and neater as long as your hand is steady.
Is there a Video of it on YT? I’m interested in your suggestion, but can’t immagine how ot should look like/what the steps are, etc. - I’m just a DIYer, my actual Job is in an office and has nothing to do with carpentry...
There are a number of reasons for the high cost of timber here, as well as the shortage. Some of the vast purpose grown timber forests were sold off some years ago, cut down and turned in to dairy farms. Much is sold directly to China as whole logs. Many timber mills have closed down over the years, leaving many people out of work and mill towns to decay. The government planted vast areas in pine plantations from the 1930's in anticipation of this country's growing building needs, state housing, etc. They were all sold off/privatised in the Rogernomics and Ruthernomics eras (errors) of the 80's and 90's, and now the chickens have come to roost, so to speak.
I have an ex-state house and I cannot find the right size scotia - where do I go? Currently I am taking off scotia from wardrobes but it breaks into pieces (I find rimu to be brittle) and gluing back together and using. It is a mission
Do you never just tape the ceiling to wall corner and let the plasterer just finish it square? Or is the scotia a period thing?
Period thing in the house he is doing. The house was an old "State" house built by the Government in the day ( probably 1950s) to standard specifications and rented to people. There were thousands built in NZ. A lot have been sold off to to private owners who renovate them to modern expectations ( as Scott is doing).
Tight stop is used in some newer houses ( and was popular 20 years ago) instead of timber or plaster scotia but very modern houses/apartments they use square wooden scotia. Saves money and time with plastering.
A common practice in the northeast U.S. is to not pin the architrave trim to the drywall. allows to easy replacement
Yo.. I've purchased Gib scotia to use in a bathroom, but it as a product isn't wet area rated. Should I use it, a different product? Or gap filler in behind it?
That's some serious wake up hair my guy! 😂
and looks 100x better than my hair
Can you review the Makita vac??
When's paerau going to finish his puhoro?
16ft 6 inch shiplap is the problem here in Ireland, not a bit of it to be gotten anywhere, bit so much of a timber drought tho, many suppliers have lots,
Scott , why are you putting the trim on before the taping?
What was that device which released that metal corner clamp on the door architrave?
Scott you should do a day in the life video
Thanks mate
Looks like you need an apprentice to carry all that timber form you, love the vids scott
You should try out 3rd Hand made by FastCap. It's much better than the Zip Wall poles you're using.
Yeah, so I had to add some missing scotia in the kitchen when I replaced the 25 year-old cabinets and I did it the hard way. It took me a good hour to figure out how to make 45 degree cuts to both pieces so they'd meet in the corner using a mitre box and hand saw (it was only after I'd finished I saw a video on coping, which would have been better).
Then I had used a router in a home-made table to remove 1.5 mm from strips of 4 mm MDF, which was glued to the backs of the scotia pieces so that the thickness matched the original half-inch scotia, seeing as modern scotia, architraves and skirting is all 10 mm.
End result wasn't pretty, but filler and paint hide a multitude of sins made by the home DIY fella...
here in the uk we use a coving mitre, it's shaped to the coving and it comes in two sizes. perfect inside/ outside corners every time