One point that is easy to overlook it to remember to test the battery at the appropriate temperature, and only test it after a full charge. It's amazing how much battery output depends on temperature.
@@frankmontez6853 Battery output is reduced in cold weather but battery longevity is strangely increased if kept fully charged. Being from Canada I don't know much about hot weather, but wire resistance goes up a little as temp increases.
Making use of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
@nightpwner Yes you could use a multimeter for checking the charging system but to put a load on the battery to check it's condition you need this tester.
Thanks for great upload and good camera work. This same design has been used by many others, just bought a MotoMaster branded item, same exact features. Your explanation of the charging system test is better than the instruction leaflet, thanks for that also!
Positive first than negative not negative first than positive when installing clamps. reverse order when taking off .same thing for battery clamps .Not good for computers
When connecting to battery, make sure you connect tester to Red/positive terminal of car battery 1st and THEN connect to Black/negative terminal. When removing, perform in reverse. Otherwise, helpful video.
Your battery has 600 cold cranking amps and the meter was dead on. WHAT IF the reading showed 400 for example. How much lower can it be before its time to change the battery?
Alternator failure in most cases is voltage loss ,but in some cases alternator failure can also be good voltage and low to negative amp output varying on rpm..this meter only measures voltage. Most alternators at idle , output 40 to 80 amps th-cam.com/video/AXnl2lvDBMw/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/IFBPPPpuDiE/w-d-xo.html for a more true meter check. Very little videos as the one i posted above ..I learned this technique from been a car audio Installer. Most auto part stores do not test for amps but only test on voltage causing headaches and wasted time and money ..When they tell you your alternator is good when its not. Especially when its a new alternator and you take it back and they tested via volt meter and not amp! And they insist its a GOOD ALTERNATOR! But like i said most failed alternators are low voltage issues !
Looks and seem like a solid unit, my only gripe from what i can see in the video on the Load Tester is they should put better clamps on it. They look like clamps fro. A china ebay welder and should be nice to have 5 or 6 ft leads. Im guessing the cables are probably copper coated aluminum too. Which would explain the short leads.
I had a trusted mechanic with his multimeter check it when I cranked it. . He said it was 10 v. Borderline he said.. So changed it . I also checked it with this meter. Without cranking, I did the two tests listed on manual. Was alright in the first test failed miserably on the load test . Needle went all the way to ZERO. LIKE TESTING A BRICK.
hey thanks for posting this. i was at a local auto store where i live and saw this exact one but wasn't sure about it. looks like a decent one. cheers.
@nightpwner Rich is absolutely correct. To properly test a battery, you need to test it under a dynamic load, measuring output (amperage), not just voltage. A bad battery will often produce acceptable voltage, but when challenged with a load, it can't produce the amperage needed. The only beef I have over this tester is that it is limited to 100A, which is barely enough to properly test a car battery. Realfixesrealfast demo a more versatile (and more expensive) tester.
@@spelunkerd I did both tests listed on manual . The charge test showed it was good but the load test it failed miserably . Went all the way down to zero . like testing a brick
@@frankmontez6853 That is a surprisingly common situation, in fact it happened to me this week. The other thing that can happen is failure to hold a charge overnight, even if it initially passes a load test. Either case, the battery is pooched. You can try adding distilled water to cells, and you can try a desulfation algorithm with a smart charger, but most often the result is weak, temporary, and unreliable. Better to move on with a new battery.
@@spelunkerd are you familiar with Auto Zone battery tester ? Looks way more modern and expensive. My other slightly used battery was tested by them. Do you think that's a good tester ? Showed 100% charge. ..also checked it with my harbor freight tester and it passed
Not recommended it would be a heavy discharge for this size battery and will reduce its lifetime.... IE it doesn't have the capacity to supply enough current for this size load..100 amps.
So I have a tractor with a car battery 12 volt and when I use tester under load it's around 600 but won't crank tractor over so I charged it for a couple hours and tried again with it set to boost on charger still won't crank so then I hook my truck battery cables up to it and it starts tractor up? So my question is, is it my battery bad or my battery charger bad why can jumper cables to truck start tractor but charger set to boost won't?
There is a procedure to determine starter voltage drop which can give an indication of starting circuit condition. The yellow table on the meter face has two sets of numbers for this purpose. The top row, "Load Volts", is measured during the load test, with the switch engaged. Most people will be looking at the CCA scale or the condition bars during this test, but when and IF the needle stops moving, glance at the voltage graticule at the top of the scales and note the voltage reading. You now need to crank the engine without having it start. I'm a distributor cap, points and condenser guy, so I have no idea how to disable an ECM ignition sytem - and have the engine ever start again! So if YOU know how to do that, crank the engine with the tester still connected to the battery and note the voltage reading while the engine is actually cranking. This reading ("Min. Crank Volts")should be greater than the value shown in the yellow table below the "Load Volts" value you measured earlier. A note in the table says that in the case of an engine greater than 3.6 liters (Canadian here!) or 200 cu. in., use the next higher crank volts value.
+Marc Denham if the regulator is bad ,you could get more than 16 volts in the battery so the acid start to boil and dry it. But you smell the acid, anyway check with a multimeter.
+Gleiver Alzate if I check the battery with a multimeter. What should be normal reading for the battery when the engine is switched off and on? Thanks.
engine runing 14,5 volts, engine off 12,7 or a little higher . if the voltage in the battery drops to 12 or less the battery is bad. check the picture of the tester in this video is a good reference
Gleiver Alzate I checked my battery with a multi-meter and I got: Engine off 12,5V Engine running, head-lights and ac blower on 13,1V Engine running, head-lights and ac blower off 13,1V Is this any good, or is the battery weak? If the battery is weak, it is really confusing me on how my fog light bulbs exploded.
Yo some shitty channel (with some weird name called Kimochi Review) is posting other people’s content and your video is one of them. Figured I’d let you know since TH-cam doesn’t have stolen content as a report option, and copyright takedown can only be submitted by the owner of said content. I’d seen this on another review and that guy obviously put some effort into his video, as did you. Thought it was shitty enough to do something about it so yeah.
That's the same damn tester they sell at harbor freight for a lot less money. All schumacher did was have a rocker switch instead of a toggle switch. They all come from the same chinese factory!! OMFAO
HF tester people say has aluminum cables, this one has copper. There are some other minor differences. HF is $16 now after coupon, BT-100 is $20 on Amazon after 20% of current coupon. For $4 more I prefer BT-100. In any case, there are $15 ones on eBay from China
This tester is old type bat need underst how to use this simple tester not for ewerione meby not god to use at new car wuth computer for old is perfectly!! once agein tools is simple bat need how to use!!
I'm a technician, that test and very risky, there is a resistance and battery shorting when you press the button, and the battery can explode, there are much better electronic tester, can test many types of battery without risks, of course personal opinion
If it explodes with a 100A nichrome wire load, then it will explode 6 times more with a 600A CCA load. Yes, there are fancy electronic testers that simulate load then print you test results, but they do not cost $20 and - surprise - often are not as reliable.
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One point that is easy to overlook it to remember to test the battery at the appropriate temperature, and only test it after a full charge. It's amazing how much battery output depends on temperature.
You mean cold temperature has more of an effect that say 100° plus . Live in south Texas verrry hot here 🔥
@@frankmontez6853 Battery output is reduced in cold weather but battery longevity is strangely increased if kept fully charged. Being from Canada I don't know much about hot weather, but wire resistance goes up a little as temp increases.
Making use of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type
Thank you for placing this video up here. I just got myself one and was not sure how to use it. Again, Thank you :)
@nightpwner Yes you could use a multimeter for checking the charging system but to put a load on the battery to check it's condition you need this tester.
Fantastic review, very thorough & informative!
Thanks for great upload and good camera work. This same design has been used by many others, just bought a MotoMaster branded item, same exact features. Your explanation of the charging system test is better than the instruction leaflet, thanks for that also!
Great tool, I bought one and it works like a charm
This is extremely informative love to see this.
Ahmad from Pakistan.
Thanks for uploading
Positive first than negative not negative first than positive when installing clamps. reverse order when taking off .same thing for battery clamps .Not good for computers
Frank woodman you are completely correct.
no offense but you sound just like peter griffen on family guy lol
lol
Yes! He totally does!
Shut up meg!
Ha,ha..He dose because he have nasal congestion problems.
When connecting to battery, make sure you connect tester to Red/positive terminal of car battery 1st and THEN connect to Black/negative terminal. When removing, perform in reverse. Otherwise, helpful video.
Good job explaining how to use this and why!!
@mazzmari It was just inside the green on the gauge.Car has been running with no problems.
Your battery has 600 cold cranking amps and the meter was dead on. WHAT IF the reading showed 400 for example. How much lower can it be before its time to change the battery?
@spelunkerd Yes your right i forgot to mention that testing should be at normal temperature.
probably a good reason they are still selling that, looks great
Alternator failure in most cases is voltage loss ,but in some cases alternator failure can also be good voltage and low to negative amp output varying on rpm..this meter only measures voltage.
Most alternators at idle , output 40 to 80 amps th-cam.com/video/AXnl2lvDBMw/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/IFBPPPpuDiE/w-d-xo.html for a more true meter check.
Very little videos as the one i posted above ..I learned this technique from been a car audio Installer.
Most auto part stores do not test for amps but only test on voltage causing headaches and wasted time and money ..When they tell you your alternator is good when its not.
Especially when its a new alternator and you take it back and they tested via volt meter and not amp! And they insist its a GOOD ALTERNATOR!
But like i said most failed alternators are low voltage issues !
Looks and seem like a solid unit, my only gripe from what i can see in the video on the Load Tester is they should put better clamps on it. They look like clamps fro. A china ebay welder and should be nice to have 5 or 6 ft leads. Im guessing the cables are probably copper coated aluminum too. Which would explain the short leads.
Ordering one now. Great video , Thanks.
I had a trusted mechanic with his multimeter check it when I cranked it. . He said it was 10 v. Borderline he said.. So changed it . I also checked it with this meter. Without cranking, I did the two tests listed on manual. Was alright in the first test failed miserably on the load test . Needle went all the way to ZERO. LIKE TESTING A BRICK.
Wow. Looks just like my Harbor Freight 100 amp load tester. Same clamps, case, cable, meter and switch. Just a different name plate and price.
What country is this tester made in please?
Is the Sealey BT91 the same or not to the starter motor. Thanks
@dsquare1986 Yes it is correct for the gen 2 1998 like this one to be facing the rear.
Is it only for acid batterys use? I need one for AGM/ GEL BATTERYS
hey thanks for posting this. i was at a local auto store where i live and saw this exact one but wasn't sure about it. looks like a decent one. cheers.
It is a very handy tool.
Can the Shummacker be used on 12 V motorcycle batteries?
Thanks for your video. much appreciated.
@RandallFlaggNY yes it is.
@nightpwner Rich is absolutely correct. To properly test a battery, you need to test it under a dynamic load, measuring output (amperage), not just voltage. A bad battery will often produce acceptable voltage, but when challenged with a load, it can't produce the amperage needed. The only beef I have over this tester is that it is limited to 100A, which is barely enough to properly test a car battery. Realfixesrealfast demo a more versatile (and more expensive) tester.
So you're saying this load tester function is great way to know if it's good ?
@@frankmontez6853 Yes, for sure.
@@spelunkerd I did both tests listed on manual . The charge test showed it was good but the load test it failed miserably . Went all the way down to zero . like testing a brick
@@frankmontez6853 That is a surprisingly common situation, in fact it happened to me this week. The other thing that can happen is failure to hold a charge overnight, even if it initially passes a load test. Either case, the battery is pooched. You can try adding distilled water to cells, and you can try a desulfation algorithm with a smart charger, but most often the result is weak, temporary, and unreliable. Better to move on with a new battery.
@@spelunkerd are you familiar with Auto Zone battery tester ? Looks way more modern and expensive. My other slightly used battery was tested by them. Do you think that's a good tester ? Showed 100% charge. ..also checked it with my harbor freight tester and it passed
Can you check a motorcycle 12v 12amp hour battery, would this load a full 100 amp without damage to it?
Not recommended it would be a heavy discharge for this size battery and will reduce its lifetime.... IE it doesn't have the capacity to supply enough current for this size load..100 amps.
So I have a tractor with a car battery 12 volt and when I use tester under load it's around 600 but won't crank tractor over so I charged it for a couple hours and tried again with it set to boost on charger still won't crank so then I hook my truck battery cables up to it and it starts tractor up? So my question is, is it my battery bad or my battery charger bad why can jumper cables to truck start tractor but charger set to boost won't?
Jason Brock your tractor may need more cranking amps. My friend ran into this problem so we put an 800 amp deep cycle in and it's great.
Your the best Rich!
I just got this today for 32.00...semi new. I think I did good on it...miss you Mat RAYMOND! lol😂😂
whats the best battery tester on the market today?
How to use this tool for the starter current draw?
Could I use as well just a plain voltmeter to check battery charging system?
+ybrik5 you cant use this tool for that purpsoe, i suggest a clamp multimeter with a min/max function
There is a procedure to determine starter voltage drop which can give an indication of starting circuit condition. The yellow table on the meter face has two sets of numbers for this purpose. The top row, "Load Volts", is measured during the load test, with the switch engaged. Most people will be looking at the CCA scale or the condition bars during this test, but when and IF the needle stops moving, glance at the voltage graticule at the top of the scales and note the voltage reading. You now need to crank the engine without having it start. I'm a distributor cap, points and condenser guy, so I have no idea how to disable an ECM ignition sytem - and have the engine ever start again! So if YOU know how to do that, crank the engine with the tester still connected to the battery and note the voltage reading while the engine is actually cranking. This reading ("Min. Crank Volts")should be greater than the value shown in the yellow table below the "Load Volts" value you measured earlier. A note in the table says that in the case of an engine greater than 3.6 liters (Canadian here!) or 200 cu. in., use the next higher crank volts value.
Thank you for the video, very helpful
nice review
yea is good to test alternators and batterys very good to.
I have a random question.
Is it possible that a car battery can supply an over-voltage charge to my fog lights and burn out my HB4s fog lights?
+Marc Denham I have seen a alternator over charge the battery.
+Marc Denham if the regulator is bad ,you could get more than 16 volts in the battery so the acid start to boil and dry it. But you smell the acid, anyway check with a multimeter.
+Gleiver Alzate if I check the battery with a multimeter. What should be normal reading for the battery when the engine is switched off and on? Thanks.
engine runing 14,5 volts, engine off 12,7 or a little higher . if the voltage in the battery drops to 12 or less the battery is bad. check the picture of the tester in this video is a good reference
Gleiver Alzate I checked my battery with a multi-meter and I got:
Engine off 12,5V
Engine running, head-lights and ac blower on 13,1V
Engine running, head-lights and ac blower off 13,1V
Is this any good, or is the battery weak?
If the battery is weak, it is really confusing me on how my fog light bulbs exploded.
It says up to 1000 CCA. Was wondering if it would work on a 1010 CCA battery, seeing its not much more than the maximum CCA load?
You would think it would be close.
richpin06a
yea exactly
Yo some shitty channel (with some weird name called Kimochi Review) is posting other people’s content and your video is one of them. Figured I’d let you know since TH-cam doesn’t have stolen content as a report option, and copyright takedown can only be submitted by the owner of said content. I’d seen this on another review and that guy obviously put some effort into his video, as did you. Thought it was shitty enough to do something about it so yeah.
Connect the the unit start the car then watch the charging system scale.
The charging system seems to be overcharging a bit dont you think? :o?
Mujhe Keval metre ka display chahie kitne ka Aur Kahan Milega
@RandallFlaggNY The owner whines too.
Not a bad price but check Amazon first.
I love the way you talk. Mass.?
How much was this device?
fantastic
Hey Rich, were is the tool made?
Chi-nah
cool,i wanted to get one like this but from H-F TOOLS lol.
Distributor kya Milega address aur Inka price kya hai
@mazzmari The sticker on the back says made in china....o well.
Should the load test be done when engine running?
No, the alternator would make up for any battery weakness and it wouldn't be a good test. You run the engine for the charging system test.
@richpin06a Er....That's your Saturn, right?
this tool is good i got the same one.
You got some belt whine there, I think.
❤
@mckemmie17 Amazon.
Lmao thank you Peter Griffin
i wonder if the name relates to michael in any way :)
That's the same damn tester they sell at harbor freight for a lot less money.
All schumacher did was have a rocker switch instead of a toggle switch.
They all come from the same chinese factory!! OMFAO
HF tester people say has aluminum cables, this one has copper. There are some other minor differences. HF is $16 now after coupon, BT-100 is $20 on Amazon after 20% of current coupon. For $4 more I prefer BT-100. In any case, there are $15 ones on eBay from China
@@deseremere Come 2019 and its $35 on amazon now.
This tester is old type bat need underst how to use this simple tester not for ewerione meby not god to use at new car wuth computer for old is perfectly!!
once agein tools is simple bat need how to use!!
@bhstone1 $27.
nice i m new youtuber
I'm a technician, that test and very risky, there is a resistance and battery shorting when you press the button, and the battery can explode, there are much better electronic tester, can test many types of battery without risks, of course personal opinion
It's not a short, it's a 100A load. The start motor probably draws more current than that.
OK which electronic tester's are you referring to? Don't just jump in here, make a claim and offer nothing to support it.
If it explodes with a 100A nichrome wire load, then it will explode 6 times more with a 600A CCA load. Yes, there are fancy electronic testers that simulate load then print you test results, but they do not cost $20 and - surprise - often are not as reliable.
igazán mond hatná magyarul is
Not a thorough review at all. Extremely watered down.