I have been working on automotive electrical systems for over 50 years. I was brought up working at my fathers' automotive electric shop starting back in 1962. I ran my own shop for 30 years. Battery load testing with a carbon-pile load tester really tells you how many amps a battery can deliver. I would load test a battery at 50% of it's cold cranking amps for about 15 to 30 seconds and see what voltage it could maintain. The load tester for this I had was a MAC BCH-3 carbon pile load tester. In case some on does not know how a tester like this works. It has a knob you turn clockwise until you reach 50% of the CCA. You are watching the amperage and the voltage. Then you turn the the knob back to no amperage. By the way, look at what load tester your local battery warehouse uses. Mine used a carbon pile load tester.
@@frankmontez6853 Use them both. I am old and like the old way. My carbon-pile load tester has two meters, one for the true amperage coming out of the battery through the cables and the other giving the voltage. The carbon-pile is very adjustable according to the Cold Cranking Amp rating of the battery. So on a 900 CCA battery, I would be drawing out 450 amps and watching the voltage to see it can maintain a cranking voltage. That kind of amperage needs a good battery cable connections and heavy wire. If it failed, I would connect directly up to the battery and retry. I had special adapters for side post batteries. The other little meter is not drawing out a lot of amperage, it has small wires. It checks the batteries internal resistance and capacitance values. I really do not understand how accurate it would be. The next time you are at a battery warehouse type store, look at what they have. If you take your battery in, they will usually test it for free. This will give you comparison to your meters. If you buy a new battery, try both on it. The length of time for the load test should be at least the time it takes for your vehicle to start, I think 10 to 15 seconds is good enough, but then repeat the test. On the voltage during the load test, 9 to 11 volts should be OK. Of coarse 11 volts being better than 9 volts. I also have a Snap-on induction meter that you just lay over the wire and read the amperage going through it. Try watching the battery voltage while some one else cranks the engine over. Google "carbon pile load tester", to see one.
Excellent straightforward advice. You can also take your multimeter and hit the min/ max feature and take the reading off the multimeter, when you hit the starter. If it's 9.6v or above then the battery is a pass.
I have the modern digital conductance tester, the "toaster" style 100 amp battery load tester, and a 500 amp carbon pile tester. I find that they all have their place. I also have four Fluke DMMs and a Picoscope 4424 kit. For me, the conductance tester is sweet because it allows me to quickly analyze key characteristics of a battery and charging system in a vehicle experiencing issues, giving me more information than I could get with my Fluke DMM alone and requiring a hell of a lot less set up time than my Picoscope. However, I do realize the conductance testers have limitations. That's why even after using the conductance tester, before I spend the money to replace a "bad" battery, I always attempt to charge it to at least 80% of capacity and confirm its status using the carbon pile tester. The "toaster" style tester could also be used for this but it does not put as heavy a load on the battery as the carbon pile tester, and the load is not adjustable. For real world load testing, I would recommend the carbon pile tester over the "toaster" style. If I had just the digital conductance tester, a DMM and a good 500 amp carbon pile tester, I'd feel very well equipped to diagnose most battery faults that your average DIYer would run into.
I really enjoyed this video. Going through this right now myself. I have the large, hot load tester like you. It’s going to hit the battery pretty hard, so I’m not sure a 2nd test with the digital tester is going to give you the results you expect. You might try reversing the order - digital tester first, then the old load tester. My wife’s Honda CRV is turning over slow. Has a 2-year-old Optima yellow-top in it. My old hot load tester says it’s weak, so I replaced the battery (actually upgraded to a larger size battery.) My receipt for the old battery says “free 3 year replacement” so I took it back to where I bought and had them test it. It’s this test with their test device that’s important. Their device appeared to be a digital tester. Battery passed on their device, so no free replacement.
The old tester will only work on fully charged batteries. Your battery was clearly not fully charged. How do you compare something when you don't even know how to use it?
@@livewithnickwhere did you here fully charged? Give me the time in video where you heard it and I will check. Didn’t hear it myself. And yes poster you responded to is correct has to be fully charged before testing. Never heard that mentioned in video.
i like the details as well...nice to know how bad something really is. But the old one Is pretty idiot proof, if you trust the conclusion it draws without showing you the data.
so, does the battery have to be fully charged for an accurate load test? i just went to get my tires rotated and ford service claimed to do a load test without my request. they said the battery is bad but i've never had any indication of a bad battery. also, wouldn't they have to CHARGE my battery before the test? and why would they charge my battery for free just to do a load test a never requested? i'm suspicious of a scam. should i be? also, where's the date of installation on batteries? if i knew the date of installation it might give a clearer idea of whether the battery might be in need of replacement.
Foxwell all the way. Both batteries were not up to full charge and the old toaster should be at 12.6 to start a test where the foxwell can test and display ratings when the battery is not fully charged. Try at both fully charged and see the results . Great batteries to test on.
I would think a good battery should show much more than the CCA rating because the CCA is 0° and your likely showing cranking amps at whatever temp you are in. I may be wrong
On the tester the cca is calculated from conductance test. But where does the 12.06 v number comes from for the test ? Surely not from actual physical cca load.
The new tech battery tester as he was using has small wires, telling you it is not putting a large load on the battery. If your connections or the battery cable connections are not good, how will your readings be? And can you explain exactly what the meter is testing? (voltage=electrical pressure, amperage=amount of electrical current, resistance=how well a circuit will conduct, and capacitance= ability of a circuit to collect and store energy in the form of an electrical charge but capacitors do not flow direct current). I am going to see what they are using now at my local battery warehouse, the last time I was in there they used a carbon pile load tester. If I was testing a 900 CCA battery, I would put a 450 amp load on it and see how well it maintained a voltage. I am old and like things that are simple, can be well defined, and always work. I started working at my fathers automotive electrical shop back in 1962 . Then served 6 years in the US Air Force as an autopilot tech. Then ran an automotive air conditioning and radiator shop for 30 years. Then after retiring went through an apprenticeship and got a master electrician license.
Left the scienfific method out that Project Farm used in his DC welder car battery saver tests. Start each method fully charged, then rested without erroneous indications of a surface charge. Both Carbon Pile and digital testers have their place, both correlated closely in Project Farm's test.
Lovely video content! Forgive me for butting in, I would love your thoughts. Have you heard about - Rozardner Powerful Battery Reality (probably on Google)? It is a good one of a kind product for learning how to recondition an old battery without the headache. Ive heard some super things about it and my cooworker at very last got amazing success with it.
Yes. An expensive month is coming for Jerry, but at minus twenty, if you were not at home, that would be a very bad time for a battery failure. Unless you carry one of the better jumper starters from the bskorner.
honestly i usually always carry one of the capacitor jump starters with me, I also take a battery one with while camping as i use it to power devices and such with them
Nice Vid on the comparison "TESTER - SHOOT OUT!! " I just happened to be at the Home Depot couple days ago and I ran into some battery jump packs on Black & Decker, and DeWalt, and they looked pretty good, I was thinking if you could maybe do a - VIDEO TEST on those products, just a little FYI - 👍🤔👊😞
toyotaman29 I have had experience with a jetski sized Odyssey batteries and are really good. 525 cranking amp that started a 454 big block RV sits at 13.1v when charged.
Sounds to me that maybe we used to have higher standards back in the day…🤔. Wed hook that stuff up and if it didn’t hit a high enough mark, we’d be like change that shit. Now a days it like well maybe it’ll be ok if the weather is ok…. Just change that shit and stick with the tried and true! 👍🏻
Hardly a comparison doesn’t even test load shows state of health. How is new one better? Why do you believe reading of one over other, because it’s newer and digital? Give me a break. Test load tester against load tester not load tester against charge analyzer. Analyzer doesn’t test rate of discharge by putting a load on battery just shows state of charge without voltage being drawn off. Didn’t enjoy video for that fact.
P ositive first than negative hook up always or spark could go kaboom!!! In your face. Every mechanic should know that it's very elementary. It's same way with jumper cables. Kaboom!!!
There is virtually no current passing until you do the testing so not much to spark so they are both nothing like using jumper leads. Jumper leads are generally quite safe unless an Idiot reverses negative positive on either end.
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I have been working on automotive electrical systems for over 50 years. I was brought up working at my fathers' automotive electric shop starting back in 1962. I ran my own shop for 30 years. Battery load testing with a carbon-pile load tester really tells you how many amps a battery can deliver. I would load test a battery at 50% of it's cold cranking amps for about 15 to 30 seconds and see what voltage it could maintain. The load tester for this I had was a MAC BCH-3 carbon pile load tester. In case some on does not know how a tester like this works. It has a knob you turn clockwise until you reach 50% of the CCA. You are watching the amperage and the voltage. Then you turn the the knob back to no amperage. By the way, look at what load tester your local battery warehouse uses. Mine used a carbon pile load tester.
Soo are you saying this one on video isn't good ? I load tested mine using this got about 11 volts . Good enough or need replacement ?
@@frankmontez6853 Use them both. I am old and like the old way. My carbon-pile load tester has two meters, one for the true amperage coming out of the battery through the cables and the other giving the voltage. The carbon-pile is very adjustable according to the Cold Cranking Amp rating of the battery. So on a 900 CCA battery, I would be drawing out 450 amps and watching the voltage to see it can maintain a cranking voltage. That kind of amperage needs a good battery cable connections and heavy wire. If it failed, I would connect directly up to the battery and retry. I had special adapters for side post batteries.
The other little meter is not drawing out a lot of amperage, it has small wires. It checks the batteries internal resistance and capacitance values. I really do not understand how accurate it would be.
The next time you are at a battery warehouse type store, look at what they have. If you take your battery in, they will usually test it for free. This will give you comparison to your meters. If you buy a new battery, try both on it. The length of time for the load test should be at least the time it takes for your vehicle to start, I think 10 to 15 seconds is good enough, but then repeat the test.
On the voltage during the load test, 9 to 11 volts should be OK. Of coarse 11 volts being better than 9 volts. I also have a Snap-on induction meter that you just lay over the wire and read the amperage going through it. Try watching the battery voltage while some one else cranks the engine over.
Google "carbon pile load tester", to see one.
Excellent straightforward advice. You can also take your multimeter and hit the min/ max feature and take the reading off the multimeter, when you hit the starter. If it's 9.6v or above then the battery is a pass.
I have the modern digital conductance tester, the "toaster" style 100 amp battery load tester, and a 500 amp carbon pile tester. I find that they all have their place. I also have four Fluke DMMs and a Picoscope 4424 kit. For me, the conductance tester is sweet because it allows me to quickly analyze key characteristics of a battery and charging system in a vehicle experiencing issues, giving me more information than I could get with my Fluke DMM alone and requiring a hell of a lot less set up time than my Picoscope. However, I do realize the conductance testers have limitations. That's why even after using the conductance tester, before I spend the money to replace a "bad" battery, I always attempt to charge it to at least 80% of capacity and confirm its status using the carbon pile tester. The "toaster" style tester could also be used for this but it does not put as heavy a load on the battery as the carbon pile tester, and the load is not adjustable. For real world load testing, I would recommend the carbon pile tester over the "toaster" style. If I had just the digital conductance tester, a DMM and a good 500 amp carbon pile tester, I'd feel very well equipped to diagnose most battery faults that your average DIYer would run into.
I really enjoyed this video. Going through this right now myself.
I have the large, hot load tester like you. It’s going to hit the battery pretty hard, so I’m not sure a 2nd test with the digital tester is going to give you the results you expect. You might try reversing the order - digital tester first, then the old load tester.
My wife’s Honda CRV is turning over slow. Has a 2-year-old Optima yellow-top in it. My old hot load tester says it’s weak, so I replaced the battery (actually upgraded to a larger size battery.) My receipt for the old battery says “free 3 year replacement” so I took it back to where I bought and had them test it. It’s this test with their test device that’s important. Their device appeared to be a digital tester. Battery passed on their device, so no free replacement.
The old tester will only work on fully charged batteries. Your battery was clearly not fully charged.
How do you compare something when you don't even know how to use it?
he said they were fully charged. How do you run your mouth and you dont know what youre talking about?
@@livewithnickwhere did you here fully charged? Give me the time in video where you heard it and I will check. Didn’t hear it myself. And yes poster you responded to is correct has to be fully charged before testing. Never heard that mentioned in video.
12.06v and 12.6 are kinda a big difference
I prefer the actual CCA remaining indication on the new Foxwell tester.
You can know without question that the battery is weak.
+Charles Hodge so do I actually
i like the details as well...nice to know how bad something really is. But the old one Is pretty idiot proof, if you trust the conclusion it draws without showing you the data.
so, does the battery have to be fully charged for an accurate load test?
i just went to get my tires rotated and ford service claimed to do a load test without my request. they said the battery is bad but i've never had any indication of a bad battery. also, wouldn't they have to CHARGE my battery before the test? and why would they charge my battery for free just to do a load test a never requested?
i'm suspicious of a scam. should i be?
also, where's the date of installation on batteries? if i knew the date of installation it might give a clearer idea of whether the battery might be in need of replacement.
Foxwell all the way. Both batteries were not up to full charge and the old toaster should be at 12.6 to start a test where the foxwell can test and display ratings when the battery is not fully charged. Try at both fully charged and see the results . Great batteries to test on.
+STEVE ROB they were charged the engine was running prior to each test
I would think a good battery should show much more than the CCA rating because the CCA is 0° and your likely showing cranking amps at whatever temp you are in. I may be wrong
On the tester the cca is calculated from conductance test. But where does the 12.06 v number comes from for the test ? Surely not from actual physical cca load.
The new tech is definitely the way to go. The science behind it is pretty cool
The new tech battery tester as he was using has small wires, telling you it is not putting a large load on the battery. If your connections or the battery cable connections are not good, how will your readings be? And can you explain exactly what the meter is testing? (voltage=electrical pressure, amperage=amount of electrical current, resistance=how well a circuit will conduct, and capacitance= ability of a circuit to collect and store energy in the form of an electrical charge but capacitors do not flow direct current).
I am going to see what they are using now at my local battery warehouse, the last time I was in there they used a carbon pile load tester.
If I was testing a 900 CCA battery, I would put a 450 amp load on it and see how well it maintained a voltage.
I am old and like things that are simple, can be well defined, and always work. I started working at my fathers automotive electrical shop back in 1962 . Then served 6 years in the US Air Force as an autopilot tech. Then ran an automotive air conditioning and radiator shop for 30 years. Then after retiring went through an apprenticeship and got a master electrician license.
Left the scienfific method out that Project Farm used in his DC welder car battery saver tests.
Start each method fully charged, then rested without erroneous indications of a surface charge.
Both Carbon Pile and digital testers have their place, both correlated closely in Project Farm's test.
It looks like the old tester drained the batteries significantly before you used the new tester.
+jospi2 if the battery was too low it would say to do a recharge and then test over
jospi2 --- If that test is killing your battery then it was already in need of replacement.
Lovely video content! Forgive me for butting in, I would love your thoughts. Have you heard about - Rozardner Powerful Battery Reality (probably on Google)? It is a good one of a kind product for learning how to recondition an old battery without the headache. Ive heard some super things about it and my cooworker at very last got amazing success with it.
Yes. An expensive month is coming for Jerry, but at minus twenty, if you were not at home, that would be a very bad time for a battery failure. Unless you carry one of the better jumper starters from the bskorner.
honestly i usually always carry one of the capacitor jump starters with me, I also take a battery one with while camping as i use it to power devices and such with them
Thanks, I just bot the Foxwell today!
Hello, I have a battery deep cycle , but there's no numbers on it. How do I know the size and how to deal with it
what??
Nice Vid on the comparison "TESTER - SHOOT OUT!! "
I just happened to be at the Home Depot couple days ago and I ran into some battery jump packs on Black & Decker, and DeWalt, and they looked pretty good, I was thinking if you could maybe do a - VIDEO TEST on those products, just a little FYI - 👍🤔👊😞
+Daniel C. I’m only currently reviewing what is being sent to me. There is no return on my investment buying them
jerry bskorner,
Oh OK, Totally understand, I will see you in the next - VID!!!
+Daniel C. There will be a new jumpstarter video next Friday
12.06 v compared with 11.96 v. Dont know if this acceptable discrepancy.
Nice vid, I have foxwell bt100 pro. What about a review on the Odyssey Extreme battery vs other AGM batteries.
toyotaman29 I have had experience with a jetski sized Odyssey batteries and are really good. 525 cranking amp that started a 454 big block RV sits at 13.1v when charged.
Cool vid Jerry!! makes me want to test mine now
Great video real stuff and I appreciate seeing it for a change
on jeap all 3 meters had a different voltage reading !
Old school rules.
It is weak. It's 850cca but measured @530 it's bad. And a battery should be at 12.3-12.5 if it's a good battery fully charged. Replace the battery
Time for new batteries alright. I need one too its 7-1/2 years old :/ But with our climate they last longer.
+txsviking must be nice never getting snow, we are getting into winter now here
My shop switched to digital and I can hook it up 4 times with different reading every time sometimes. I don't trust them
Sounds to me that maybe we used to have higher standards back in the day…🤔. Wed hook that stuff up and if it didn’t hit a high enough mark, we’d be like change that shit. Now a days it like well maybe it’ll be ok if the weather is ok…. Just change that shit and stick with the tried and true! 👍🏻
old tester has a heating element ! Not a copper wire lol
The only way to test a battery is with full load,ie old tester,,the digital would have burned out within seconds with those pissy little leads,
digital does a resistance check, doesnt run like a toaster
thank you . may 21 2023 los angeles (i always like to know who is watching from where. =)
Hardly a comparison doesn’t even test load shows state of health. How is new one better? Why do you believe reading of one over other, because it’s newer and digital? Give me a break. Test load tester against load tester not load tester against charge analyzer. Analyzer doesn’t test rate of discharge by putting a load on battery just shows state of charge without voltage being drawn off. Didn’t enjoy video for that fact.
P ositive first than negative hook up always or spark could go kaboom!!! In your face. Every mechanic should know that it's very elementary. It's same way with jumper cables. Kaboom!!!
Spark can occur no matter what you hook up first so quit being a idiot
There is virtually no current passing until you do the testing so not much to spark so they are both nothing like using jumper leads.
Jumper leads are generally quite safe unless an Idiot reverses negative positive on either end.
I want purchage it