Hi ! Very nice video! Incidentally if any one tries to connect similar Chinese boards with 12 Volts as their barrel socket specifies, they are sure to burn up the 5 volt SMD regulator. I have burnt three of them not realizing their design flaw. After seeing your video I replaced a regular 7805 ( non SMD ) , with pin modifications and some peeled off tracks reconnection, and it works like silk. Thanks to your video initiative.
@@XexusNH If the power supply is unregulated, it can give higher voltage, like 13-14-15 V. Use a regulated one (measure it with multimeter) or buy a lower voltage one. I have one power supply of 12 V regulated, and it works fine.
I did the same with a L78S 5V 2A. Because the 5V LDO is used by the 3.3V LDO as source. The modifications to match ground-out-in from in-ground-out were exquisite !
There's something about plugging in the PSU that's worth a mention. The power supply can be plugged just as easily into one end of the breadboard or the other - but if you plug the power supply into the wrong end, just as you did, you will be plugging the positive into the blue rail and the negative into the red rail. Chips get hot and melt the breadboard! In my case, it was one op-amp of a set of 25 that I got at very low cost - so I lost a few pence. I was lucky it wasn't an Arduino Nano, or something more expensive than that!
This is the first video I've found that actually identifies the Breakout Power Supply on the MB102. I have yet to see anyone show how how to use it. ****1/2
I would think that the USB port is for powering a device through a USB cable such as a Arduino Uno or Mega that wouldn't fit on the breadboard instead of powering the power supply with USB... Almost like a feed through. I decided to go ahead and and buy a few of these to play with. Thanks for the review!
At 6'57" he mentioned a comment that will cause damage. He said, "need male to male USB cable". In other video I saw in a demo that the USB port is able to light an LED, hence, that USB port is intended to supply power and not receive power. Therefore, this power supply module has only ONE power source and that power source shall come from the jack. The USB port shall propagate the power that comes from the jack towards anything connected to the USB port.
@@cardsigner Instructions say that if the board is powered, the USB is an output USB to power other devices. If the board is not already powered by the other connector, then the USB is the input power (this is the way I use it)
Just so we all are on the same page... A multi meter will read the average voltage, so it can be more or/and less and it will pick the middle and display that. As you showed, it's 4.96 and 3.31 average therefore neither power output is correct. If you were testing and as you were trying to show. The only way to test a power supply is with a oscilloscope. This gives you I formation of jitter, noise, voltage deviations and such like. You would then have to put a load on there going the full range of the IC/FETs to see how it performs and if it is uniform. Higher current may cause a voltage drop, lower draw make have voltage spikes. Also if there is a power on spike. This happens a lot with devices and would be down to the IC and that schematic to see if this is a problem, or is increased or decreased with the board design. Also.... Most chips would take a input on 8v 500ma... But there are lots of different ones. If your getting hot, it may be the cause??
yeah you can see it in action (powering a Pi or Arduino) on the linked part page: ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1QMKXLXXXXXb8XVXXq6xXFXXXb/225552329/HTB1QMKXLXXXXXb8XVXXq6xXFXXXb.jpg?size=164064&height=667&width=1000&hash=e969b0ebe082da49cdd7736356eecd13
Interesting video but you missed a couple things that are indeed very important.. plugging it into the wrong end of the breadboard (as mentioned) is OK to do, but it sets up and inverted polarity on the breadboard where it's + output pins drive the ones labeled (-) on the breadboard's labeling... but if you keep that straight you're fine using it that way.. Several longer breadboards only extend this power half way down the rails too so be prepared to jumper + and - across the gap in the middle if yours are like that too. Secondly these YwRobot breadboard regulators cant take 12.0vdc, I would recommend they only be fed with 6 to 9vdc adapters.. I had 4 of them all fail very recently in exactly the same way before I realized that I'd grabbed the wrong wall-wort adapter and was feeding it 12.25 vdc ( unloaded) .. and here is precisely what each one did as it failed.. 1.) under a NO load condition with this +12.25 vdc applied thru the barrel jack produced want looked like Ok voltage out across the rails and was looking good at + 5.02 vdc .. it looked fine but when switched off then connected to a actual load... 2.) and turned back ON while under LOAD its GRN LED immediately started blinking at a slow .5 second rate and the output voltage under light loading was then reading only + 0.02VDC.. NOTE: I think this is a ONE TIME ONLY Fused -Open behavior to protect the load.. But then ... 3.) disconnecting the load and turning it OFF then back ON gave a normal steady ON GRN LED BUT the actual output on the rails from this regulator was exactly +11.34 VDC and it stayed that way every time you switched it OFF and back ON with or without a load connected.. I made the mistake the 1st time this occurred of having a little MPU 5060 accelerometer module plugged IN and I did not check the vltg after it was BLINKING GREEN at it's .5 second rate.. and as I powered it ON (assuming that it was simply a bad MB102 module and I swapped in a new one), and it immediately went to +11.34 and literally with nolonger a 0.02vdc out again.. this +11.34 smoked the regulator chip on the MPU 5060 when I turned it back ON.. it was sparking and billowing smoke before I could unplug it.. since switching the regulator switch OFF had no effect. 4.) after seeing it do this BINKING in a FAIL SAFE FUSED OFF to then switch over and start putting out +11.34 VDC on the rails not just once but on a total of 4 of these YwRobot MB V2 regulators .. I finally started researching the source and I am now 99% sure now that it was my 1.5 amp 12vdc wall wort that triggered all the failures of these regulators... Lesson learned.. If you ever see that GREEN LED start BLINKING as you power it ON.. do UNPLUG the load immediately and test the output voltage on the rails because after cycling the switch ON/OFF/ON a 2nd time, the +5V voltage is way too hot, it's over twice that at 11.34vdc.. DO NOT leave it connected to the load as you turn i back ON since you may be using a +12vdc or higher output transformer adapter by mistake like I was...
Comments: a) If you provide 12V to a 5V linear regulator at 0.1A, to do it's job it converts 12-5=7V @ 0.1A into heat, 0.7 watts. If you provide 7V to a 5V linear regulator at 0.1A, it converts 7-5=2V @ 0.1A into heat, 0.2 watts. Less heat = longer life. If you draw too much current, you will burn out the regulator. There is no heat sink on the regulators on this board, so you won't get the max. rated current (1A) without problems. b) According to one schematic I saw on the net for a MB-102 (don't know what the schematic is for this board), the USB connector is for power input, not output. If you try to use it as a power output, what you are doing is feeding whatever voltage is from the barrel power jack directly to the USB device. Since USB devices are expecting 5V, giving it 7V - 12V would be bad. c) The USB input jack should be a mini or micro type. Putting a USB-A connector on here goes against the USB spec. There are MB-102's on eBay that have proper mini or micro jacks. d) If you power the board using USB power, it is 5V. Supplying a 5V linear regulator with 5V does not give you 5V, it gives you something less, or maybe nothing. So only expect the 3.3V regulator to work with 5V input.
My 0.1A figure is just for a heat calculation example. I don't know what is needed for a Raspberry Pi. According to a website, somewhere between 0.5 and 0.7A is needed for an RPi 3, depending on what is connected. I'd guess you'd need to put a heat sink on the regulator to pull this kind of current. raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/341/whats-the-current-draw-and-supply-voltage-tolerance
The usb is power and program. I'm pretty sure that it's not usb and power jack, but I can't see if there is a blocker to stop the cross over and if it acts as a controller for usb out. It doesn't look like this as it's is using the PR's with almost a direct connection hence the jumpers. As for power/heat. Unless the chips are identified then it's hard to tell the total power. .7C/w is fairly common. But then so are heatsinks. I've a "5a" using a surface mount, about 30% the size of what I'd expect, there is a HS, but it isn't good enough. your right the differential or I /V is the live or die of these chips. Lower is better.
Could the USB connector be used for powering the powersupply with a mobile phone and a usb cable? If this is the case then I believe it is pretty smart because you do not need a 9V adapter to power your circuit. Not every region in the world has 9V adapter lying in a closet somewhere, but even in Africa alot of people have smartphones.
Are you sure? I have one of these (looks exactly the same, maybe different cheap chinese clone) and I use the USB as power input all the time. Computer USB to this USB port gives you USB voltage (5V +-10% on the 5V rail and 3.3 V if you put the jumper accordingly.)
i read that the input voltage range is 6.5-12 V, but what about amps? Can I actually just use a 12 V @ 1.5 A DC power supply and the only thing that will happen is it'll be extra efficient?
Are you sure that your comments on the USB connector is correct - I have seen on the net that the port is for power out only. In that case the type of connector makes sense
I have a question may it's stupid one but I don't want to burn the power supply at the first use. Can I run 3.3v and 5v on each side on of the breadboard at the same time? Thanks
How many volts is coming to power supply module ?? I bought a cheap bench power supply that's got a knob on it, that has setting 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v, 12v. Not sure which one to use. Thanks for any help!
The modules use the LDO1117 regulator chip which features a voltage dropout of about 1.5-1.2 volts. So 7.5V should be a charm. But 12V will also work, only more power will be dissipated in the regulator, reducing power efficiency.
Keep you input supply @7V or less as mentioned in comments below the AMS 1117 5.0 linear supply has no heat sink and when it dies/ gives up magic smoke whatever it shorts input to output and if your supply is a common 12v AC/DC 'wall wart' you will have very little power headroom before the regulator lets it's magic smoke go. If only a 7805 was used....
I bought this and forgot why, and thanks for having this video in English for a change, meaning other videos on this board. I am trying use it for a laser diode project. Any suggestions? Diode is a laser model Keyes all in one.
Damn I bought an electronics starter kit hoping to learn a thing or two and the first lesson I get is go buy a fucking adaptor -_-; well thank you for the play by play its apreciated
shinobimanexe Just buy an Arduino UNO. You can also use that Arduino as your 5v and 3v3 power supply. And of course, that Arduino is the next level of learning electronic
If you check the link (by Toby Fee) for the product on Aliexpress and check the specs, you can see that it can handle a 6.5 V-12 V input: item: YuRObot 545043 Bread Board power supply module , compatible with 5V , 3.3V For MB102 bread plates Input voltage : 6.5-12V ( DC ) or USB power supply Output voltage : 3.3 V, 5V switched Maximum output current :
Hey I bought this just yesterday. So I'm using 2x 18650 battries. Means... I am giving power supply of 3.7+3.7 = 7.4v And 8.4v when it's full charge. I have connected two battries and soldered the views with usb cable. So my module is getting power from USB. Not from DC jack But when I checked on multimeter. On 3.3v jumper active. Yes it gives 3.3v. but on 5v jumper active. It gives raw, means directly 8v. So is my board damaged? Or I'm missing something? Plz help me out.
Hi... I'm getting a simaler Breadboard Power Supply for a DND project I'm doing but the seller I'm getting it from isn't being to forward about as to what power supply I should use. I see that you use a 9v supply in the video but i was wondering as to the Amp's should I use a 12v-500ma or a 12v-1A or grater. (All I got ATM are difrent 12v supplys) As im not that knoligable about working out power requerments.
I've got the power supply adapter which outputs 5v 1A. But the module outputs 3.74V instead of 5V and 2.82V instead of 3.3V. Does this mean the module is corrupt or should I connect an adapter with 9V output? Pls answer
To quote Sebastian Scholle above: "The modules use the LDO1117 regulator chip which features a voltage dropout of about 1.5-1.2 volts...." So, 5 V in, 3.74 V out sounds right, as does 3.3 V in, 2.82 V out. As he mentioned, if you want a full 5V out, you would need about 7.5V in.
Hi ,I have an power wall adapter that is rated for 12 V and 1.5 amp . I tested it with the voltmeter and puts out 12.20 V , would this be ok to power this kind of Breadboard Power Supply Module ?
I'm just recently getting into Arduino and have been trying to teach myself, but I was wondering if it was possible to change the amps that come out of the USB or if there is a way to recode the power supply or is it pretty much set to were its gonna be?
stupid question but is there a way to increase the voltages instead of just having to choose between the 3.3-5 v, or do i have to buy another power supply?
The 3 volt and 5 volt options was designed for adrino and pi accessories. For example my pi can only handle so much so prefered method if running a lot of different items on the gpio is to use transistors that run on the 3 volt to trigger relays running on 5 volts. If you are running anything with a pi or andrino i recommend using a transistor triggering a relay to switch on/off the circuit. They have a board out there i belive with relay and transistors soldered in for controlling higher loads. some are even house 110ac compatible relays.
There is a way, this is outlined in this discussion: electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56219/increasing-output-voltage-of-a-fixed-linear-regulator however it should be noted that using a fixed regulator in an adjustable schema will have worse error % and will require additional components as well as re-wiring. This is usually not a great solution with a premade board like the MB102.
I got this as part of my Arduino starter kit but it doesn't work. Can't even get the power indicator light to come on. The code runs fine but no power gets to my stepper motor
Hey! My one camed without a jumpers, but it's not a problem. When I plug a battery it works fine, but after connecting it to power supply it doesn't work at all. The polarity right, and i checked few power supply (9v, 1,3 A, standard guitar unit). The LED is off all the time and it's not giving any voltage. You guys have any advice? After plugging the jack and the LED didn't respond, I plugged it back to 9v battery and it worked fine. I'm assuming it's not broken. Maybe the power supply didn't have enough current to drive the circuit, I need to measure current consumption, or maybe, my battery-to-jack converter have different polarity, there is a lot of research ahead of me.
The center pin should be positive. Most DC circuits have diodes to prevent accidental connection of the wrong polarity. However, its always best to check with a multimeter that the center pin is indeed positive.
I ended up doing something similar, I used my multimeter on that setting that beeps when you have a connection, and with one lead on the power supply center pin and then the other on the board itself where you connect to the bread board(which are labeled + & -), so once I had a connection beep, I knew the polarity of the center pin, yay :)
??? You cannot make a battery like that. Batteries work by chemical reactions inside them, which seperate electrical charges. To make a battery, you would need some acid and metals of different kinds (more complicated but whatever). Perhaps you are asking about how to make a voltage regulator from scratch. I like GreatScott's TH-cam channel, try it!
When a You Tube presenter does a long pause and then says: "umm -Yeah!" - this is short hand for "Yeah - wish I'd done a little prep be for starting the camera recording.... :-(
I thought that too - his presentation is a little tedious. I did a course on microprocessor programming on TH-cam some time ago. It runs for about 5 hours, and I spent a l-o-n-g time going through it and eliminating all the ums and urs.
How many volts is coming to power supply module ?? I bought a cheap bench power supply that's got a knob on it, that has setting 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v, 12v. Not sure which one to use. Thanks for any help!
Hi ! Very nice video! Incidentally if any one tries to connect similar Chinese boards with 12 Volts as their barrel socket specifies, they are sure to burn up the 5 volt SMD regulator. I have burnt three of them not realizing their design flaw. After seeing your video I replaced a regular 7805 ( non SMD ) , with pin modifications and some peeled off tracks reconnection, and it works like silk. Thanks to your video initiative.
Yes it does 🙂 I wish I had read this three power supplies (and two pico w ago), lol
@@XexusNH If the power supply is unregulated, it can give higher voltage, like 13-14-15 V. Use a regulated one (measure it with multimeter) or buy a lower voltage one. I have one power supply of 12 V regulated, and it works fine.
I did the same with a L78S 5V 2A. Because the 5V LDO is used by the 3.3V LDO as source. The modifications to match ground-out-in from in-ground-out were exquisite !
There's something about plugging in the PSU that's worth a mention. The power supply can be plugged just as easily into one end of the breadboard or the other - but if you plug the power supply into the wrong end, just as you did, you will be plugging the positive into the blue rail and the negative into the red rail. Chips get hot and melt the breadboard! In my case, it was one op-amp of a set of 25 that I got at very low cost - so I lost a few pence. I was lucky it wasn't an Arduino Nano, or something more expensive than that!
It appears he plugged it into the correct end of the breadboard. The + is on the red rail. Please let me know what I'm missing.
@@visarr Yes, you're right. In fact, he gets power onto the Arduino with that configuration - and you just can't argue with success!
Sorry - my bad!
@@DownhillAllTheWay I don't think I would have noticed those tiny "+" and "-", though - so, you gave me something to think about in the future.
This is the first video I've found that actually identifies the Breakout Power Supply on the MB102. I have yet to see anyone show how how to use it.
****1/2
The blue USB cable that comes with the UNO will plug right into that USB port to power the UNO
I would think that the USB port is for powering a device through a USB cable such as a Arduino Uno or Mega that wouldn't fit on the breadboard instead of powering the power supply with USB... Almost like a feed through. I decided to go ahead and and buy a few of these to play with. Thanks for the review!
At 6'57" he mentioned a comment that will cause damage. He said, "need male to male USB cable". In other video I saw in a demo that the USB port is able to light an LED, hence, that USB port is intended to supply power and not receive power. Therefore, this power supply module has only ONE power source and that power source shall come from the jack. The USB port shall propagate the power that comes from the jack towards anything connected to the USB port.
@@cardsigner Instructions say that if the board is powered, the USB is an output USB to power other devices. If the board is not already powered by the other connector, then the USB is the input power (this is the way I use it)
Just so we all are on the same page...
A multi meter will read the average voltage, so it can be more or/and less and it will pick the middle and display that.
As you showed, it's 4.96 and 3.31 average therefore neither power output is correct.
If you were testing and as you were trying to show. The only way to test a power supply is with a oscilloscope.
This gives you I formation of jitter, noise, voltage deviations and such like.
You would then have to put a load on there going the full range of the IC/FETs to see how it performs and if it is uniform.
Higher current may cause a voltage drop, lower draw make have voltage spikes.
Also if there is a power on spike. This happens a lot with devices and would be down to the IC and that schematic to see if this is a problem, or is increased or decreased with the board design.
Also....
Most chips would take a input on 8v 500ma... But there are lots of different ones. If your getting hot, it may be the cause??
i think the female USB is for powering a USB powered device like a raspberry pi
yeah you can see it in action (powering a Pi or Arduino) on the linked part page: ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1QMKXLXXXXXb8XVXXq6xXFXXXb/225552329/HTB1QMKXLXXXXXb8XVXXq6xXFXXXb.jpg?size=164064&height=667&width=1000&hash=e969b0ebe082da49cdd7736356eecd13
an
I use the USB for INPUT power from the PC. works and it powers 3.3. and 5v
@@tropicaljantie that comment I looking for 😊
Wolfgang Kleinschmit umm, not sure where you get this info from, but there are literally 1,000’s of suppliers of these cables
Interesting video but you missed a couple things that are indeed very important.. plugging it into the wrong end of the breadboard (as mentioned) is OK to do, but it sets up and inverted polarity on the breadboard where it's + output pins drive the ones labeled (-) on the breadboard's labeling... but if you keep that straight you're fine using it that way..
Several longer breadboards only extend this power half way down the rails too so be prepared to jumper + and - across the gap in the middle if yours are like that too.
Secondly these YwRobot breadboard regulators cant take 12.0vdc, I would recommend they only be fed with 6 to 9vdc adapters.. I had 4 of them all fail very recently in exactly the same way before I realized that I'd grabbed the wrong wall-wort adapter and was feeding it 12.25 vdc ( unloaded) .. and here is precisely what each one did as it failed..
1.) under a NO load condition with this +12.25 vdc applied thru the barrel jack produced want looked like Ok voltage out across the rails and was looking good at + 5.02 vdc .. it looked fine but when switched off then connected to a actual load...
2.) and turned back ON while under LOAD its GRN LED immediately started blinking at a slow .5 second rate and the output voltage under light loading was then reading only + 0.02VDC..
NOTE: I think this is a ONE TIME ONLY Fused -Open behavior to protect the load.. But then ...
3.) disconnecting the load and turning it OFF then back ON gave a normal steady ON GRN LED BUT the actual output on the rails from this regulator was exactly +11.34 VDC and it stayed that way every time you switched it OFF and back ON with or without a load connected..
I made the mistake the 1st time this occurred of having a little MPU 5060 accelerometer module plugged IN and I did not check the vltg after it was BLINKING GREEN at it's .5 second rate.. and as I powered it ON (assuming that it was simply a bad MB102 module and I swapped in a new one), and it immediately went to +11.34 and literally with nolonger a 0.02vdc out again.. this +11.34 smoked the regulator chip on the MPU 5060 when I turned it back ON.. it was sparking and billowing smoke before I could unplug it.. since switching the regulator switch OFF had no effect.
4.) after seeing it do this BINKING in a FAIL SAFE FUSED OFF to then switch over and start putting out +11.34 VDC on the rails not just once but on a total of 4 of these YwRobot MB V2 regulators .. I finally started researching the source and I am now 99% sure now that it was my 1.5 amp 12vdc wall wort that triggered all the failures of these regulators...
Lesson learned.. If you ever see that GREEN LED start BLINKING as you power it ON.. do UNPLUG the load immediately and test the output voltage on the rails because after cycling the switch ON/OFF/ON a 2nd time, the +5V voltage is way too hot, it's over twice that at 11.34vdc.. DO NOT leave it connected to the load as you turn i back ON since you may be using a +12vdc or higher output transformer adapter by mistake like I was...
Thanks for the video. You helped me to understand how the power supply connects to the board.
Thanks. ive had one of these in my kit and never knew what it was for!
Comments:
a) If you provide 12V to a 5V linear regulator at 0.1A, to do it's job it converts 12-5=7V @ 0.1A into heat, 0.7 watts. If you provide 7V to a 5V linear regulator at 0.1A, it converts 7-5=2V @ 0.1A into heat, 0.2 watts. Less heat = longer life. If you draw too much current, you will burn out the regulator. There is no heat sink on the regulators on this board, so you won't get the max. rated current (1A) without problems.
b) According to one schematic I saw on the net for a MB-102 (don't know what the schematic is for this board), the USB connector is for power input, not output. If you try to use it as a power output, what you are doing is feeding whatever voltage is from the barrel power jack directly to the USB device. Since USB devices are expecting 5V, giving it 7V - 12V would be bad.
c) The USB input jack should be a mini or micro type. Putting a USB-A connector on here goes against the USB spec. There are MB-102's on eBay that have proper mini or micro jacks.
d) If you power the board using USB power, it is 5V. Supplying a 5V linear regulator with 5V does not give you 5V, it gives you something less, or maybe nothing. So only expect the 3.3V regulator to work with 5V input.
But is 0.1 A enough for PI systems ?
My 0.1A figure is just for a heat calculation example. I don't know what is needed for a Raspberry Pi. According to a website, somewhere between 0.5 and 0.7A is needed for an RPi 3, depending on what is connected. I'd guess you'd need to put a heat sink on the regulator to pull this kind of current. raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/341/whats-the-current-draw-and-supply-voltage-tolerance
thank you mister !
The usb is power and program.
I'm pretty sure that it's not usb and power jack, but I can't see if there is a blocker to stop the cross over and if it acts as a controller for usb out.
It doesn't look like this as it's is using the PR's with almost a direct connection hence the jumpers.
As for power/heat. Unless the chips are identified then it's hard to tell the total power. .7C/w is fairly common.
But then so are heatsinks.
I've a "5a" using a surface mount, about 30% the size of what I'd expect, there is a HS, but it isn't good enough.
your right the differential or I /V is the live or die of these chips. Lower is better.
Nice, but mine has 3.3 and 14.5?? Must be a faulty regulator, but why is it boosting voltage??
Could the USB connector be used for powering the powersupply with a mobile phone and a usb cable? If this is the case then I believe it is pretty smart because you do not need a 9V adapter to power your circuit. Not every region in the world has 9V adapter lying in a closet somewhere, but even in Africa alot of people have smartphones.
The USB is a power output, not input.
Good to know....
Are you sure? I have one of these (looks exactly the same, maybe different cheap chinese clone) and I use the USB as power input all the time. Computer USB to this USB port gives you USB voltage (5V +-10% on the 5V rail and 3.3 V if you put the jumper accordingly.)
@@MichaelJohnson-mb1io There is no direction on it, it works both ways.
thanks. Can I use normal cellphone charger as power supply? or any other such a power adapter/Charger?
i read that the input voltage range is 6.5-12 V, but what about amps? Can I actually just use a 12 V @ 1.5 A DC power supply and the only thing that will happen is it'll be extra efficient?
Are you sure that your comments on the USB connector is correct - I have seen on the net that the port is for power out only. In that case the type of connector makes sense
True!
Good video. The part you explained on the PSU board are voltage regulators, not power regulators. Minor thing... good video.
I have a question may it's stupid one but I don't want to burn the power supply at the first use. Can I run 3.3v and 5v on each side on of the breadboard at the same time? Thanks
yup
Yes and No....depends what u r planning to do.
Once 5V power input is hooked up can you still use the 5v pin as output like normally done?
Somehow the audio not very good, what is in the middle of the BBoard below the Power Module?
Mine smoked when using a 12V adapter. The 5V line started reading 11V. Turned out my adapter was outputting 13V, perhaps that's what fried it.
On the board it says the input must be lower than 12v
I connected a 12 Volts and without even a load, it burnt up. There seems to be a design flaw.
@@venkatakrishnansrinivasan6928 Maybe your power supply is unregulated, and give out too high voltage?
How many volts is coming to power supply module ?? I bought a cheap bench power supply that's got a knob on it, that has setting 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v, 12v. Not sure which one to use. Thanks for any help!
The modules use the LDO1117 regulator chip which features a voltage dropout of about 1.5-1.2 volts. So 7.5V should be a charm. But 12V will also work, only more power will be dissipated in the regulator, reducing power efficiency.
Keep you input supply @7V or less as mentioned in comments below the AMS 1117 5.0 linear supply has no heat sink and when it dies/ gives up magic smoke whatever it shorts input to output and if your supply is a common 12v AC/DC 'wall wart' you will have very little power headroom before the regulator lets it's magic smoke go. If only a 7805 was used....
Nice video, well done,thanks for sharing it with us :)
What pin on the nano did you run the red, positive wire to? You said dcc I think?
Helpful video..
Got my NodeMCU powered by this.
What amps did your DC power supply provide? How much does that matter?
I'm surprised the pins on the bottom are not connected to the power and powering the board that way.Would make more sense right?
review in underwear :)))))) and that usb is to power phone or arduino using usb cable, and so on
Ah, that clarifies it. I did not try it yet. Thanks.
@Cicero ProgontusMy Phone was even able to draw juice in Fast Charge Mode
I used the USB port to power up the entire module, not to charge or power up other things😐
Thanks for your video. Are these power supplies short circuit proof ?
How much input DC voltage is allowed ? also how much max current can it pass through this board ?
I bought this and forgot why, and thanks for having this video in English for a change, meaning other videos on this board. I am trying use it for a laser diode project. Any suggestions? Diode is a laser model Keyes all in one.
Damn I bought an electronics starter kit hoping to learn a thing or two and the first lesson I get is go buy a fucking adaptor -_-;
well thank you for the play by play its apreciated
shinobimanexe Just buy an Arduino UNO.
You can also use that Arduino as your 5v and 3v3 power supply.
And of course, that Arduino is the next level of learning electronic
If you check the link (by Toby Fee) for the product on Aliexpress and check the specs, you can see that it can handle a 6.5 V-12 V input:
item: YuRObot 545043
Bread Board power supply module , compatible with 5V , 3.3V
For MB102 bread plates
Input voltage : 6.5-12V ( DC ) or USB power supply
Output voltage : 3.3 V, 5V switched
Maximum output current :
I would check that female Type A for a output power maybe to power a device or charge a phone?
the fem. usb is a 5v output so you can power your arduino
Hey I bought this just yesterday.
So I'm using 2x 18650 battries.
Means... I am giving power supply of 3.7+3.7 = 7.4v
And 8.4v when it's full charge.
I have connected two battries and soldered the views with usb cable. So my module is getting power from USB. Not from DC jack
But when I checked on multimeter. On 3.3v jumper active. Yes it gives 3.3v. but on 5v jumper active. It gives raw, means directly 8v.
So is my board damaged? Or I'm missing something?
Plz help me out.
The 5v is regulated only when 6v+ is supplied from the barrow connector. The USB 5v pin is directly connected to regulated 5v bus.
Can i use 5vdc as external to power up the module? And how many amps did u used at9v power external supply?
Hi...
I'm getting a simaler Breadboard Power Supply for a DND project I'm doing but the seller I'm getting it from isn't being to forward about as to what power supply I should use.
I see that you use a 9v supply in the video but i was wondering as to the Amp's should I use a 12v-500ma or a 12v-1A or grater.
(All I got ATM are difrent 12v supplys)
As im not that knoligable about working out power requerments.
Could I just use a 9v battery with a jack connector?
It works for me and supplies power to arduino uno but I dont know whether its advisable
Yes you can !
I've got the power supply adapter which outputs 5v 1A. But the module outputs 3.74V instead of 5V and 2.82V instead of 3.3V. Does this mean the module is corrupt or should I connect an adapter with 9V output? Pls answer
To quote Sebastian Scholle above: "The modules use the LDO1117 regulator chip which features a voltage dropout of about 1.5-1.2 volts...." So, 5 V in, 3.74 V out sounds right, as does 3.3 V in, 2.82 V out. As he mentioned, if you want a full 5V out, you would need about 7.5V in.
@@raceobannon9336 is there still a dropout if you use the usb power?
Is it possible to bypass the power jack with incoming voltage? I would like to have a remote jack to power this board.
Clarify your explanations. The USB port is meant to give power and not receive power. Confusion on this part will cause damage.
Nice review...
Thank you for make review for arduino product..
Your video really usefull..
Keep making it..
Hi ,I have an power wall adapter that is rated for 12 V and 1.5 amp . I tested it with the voltmeter and puts out 12.20 V , would this be ok to power this kind of Breadboard Power Supply Module ?
I'm just recently getting into Arduino and have been trying to teach myself, but I was wondering if it was possible to change the amps that come out of the USB or if there is a way to recode the power supply or is it pretty much set to were its gonna be?
How can I use it to convert the 3.3V of my Raspberry Pi GPIO to 5V ?
stupid question but is there a way to increase the voltages instead of just having to choose between the 3.3-5 v, or do i have to buy another power supply?
The 3 volt and 5 volt options was designed for adrino and pi accessories. For example my pi can only handle so much so prefered method if running a lot of different items on the gpio is to use transistors that run on the 3 volt to trigger relays running on 5 volts. If you are running anything with a pi or andrino i recommend using a transistor triggering a relay to switch on/off the circuit. They have a board out there i belive with relay and transistors soldered in for controlling higher loads. some are even house 110ac compatible relays.
There is a way, this is outlined in this discussion: electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56219/increasing-output-voltage-of-a-fixed-linear-regulator however it should be noted that using a fixed regulator in an adjustable schema will have worse error % and will require additional components as well as re-wiring. This is usually not a great solution with a premade board like the MB102.
Ayah Ahmad what voltages r u thinking of and for what?
That's like complaining that a ship does not fly. It's not designed to!. This is just for 3.3v and 5v!
Is there a range for feeding breadboard power supply module? Is it in the range of 6.5V-12V?
So the female usb port outputs 3.3V on the power pins (1 & 4)?
USB is ALWAYS 5V.
the pins on my power supply won't align with the holes on my mb102 breadboard
Nice video, what is the size of the DC jack on this board?
2.1mm ID
5.5 x 2.1
Useful device. It allows to mess too much the wiring on the breadboard
what are the pins (also yellow) in the middle of the board for?
Can it be used to power the raspberry pi?
I got this as part of my Arduino starter kit but it doesn't work. Can't even get the power indicator light to come on. The code runs fine but no power gets to my stepper motor
can i just replace the usb connector on the board?
Why? Why would you want to do that?
prefect for Smartphones(5v out) and Chips like esp8266(3.3v)
Hey! My one camed without a jumpers, but it's not a problem. When I plug a battery it works fine, but after connecting it to power supply it doesn't work at all. The polarity right, and i checked few power supply (9v, 1,3 A, standard guitar unit). The LED is off all the time and it's not giving any voltage. You guys have any advice?
After plugging the jack and the LED didn't respond, I plugged it back to 9v battery and it worked fine. I'm assuming it's not broken. Maybe the power supply didn't have enough current to drive the circuit, I need to measure current consumption, or maybe, my battery-to-jack converter have different polarity, there is a lot of research ahead of me.
be sure the 9v adaptor is DC with middle pin positive
Keep making these cool videos pls
Fyi the female USB port is meant to be used for powering other things.
the usb is to power your arduino or raspy
can we use both of 3.3 V and 5V?
Out of curiosity, the dc adapter you used, was the center pin + or -?
The center pin should be positive. Most DC circuits have diodes to prevent accidental connection of the wrong polarity. However, its always best to check with a multimeter that the center pin is indeed positive.
I ended up doing something similar, I used my multimeter on that setting that beeps when you have a connection, and with one lead on the power supply center pin and then the other on the board itself where you connect to the bread board(which are labeled + & -), so once I had a connection beep, I knew the polarity of the center pin, yay :)
Can I power esp8266 nodemcu with this and use my mobile phone as my output?
A good rehearsal ;-) when is the final version coming out?
Hi, Thanks for info :-) ........... connection 6,5 - 12v, is it + o) - OR - o) +
+ o) -
can these be powered with a wall charger cord?
9V wall-wart with barrel connector should do the trick
Sebastian Scholle ok thank u
Hi! Question: The barrel conector is center negative or center positive? Thank you.. cheers!
spacefolder center positive
You are amazing. Thank you for the quick reply!
maximum 700mA current, as I don't think he mentioned it
What is the output of the female USB 5V or 3.3V?
That would be 5v as per standard USB spec.
good stuff. I bought 2
How to make 5v battery using chip ,capacitor,resistor and exc
??? You cannot make a battery like that. Batteries work by chemical reactions inside them, which seperate electrical charges. To make a battery, you would need some acid and metals of different kinds (more complicated but whatever).
Perhaps you are asking about how to make a voltage regulator from scratch. I like GreatScott's TH-cam channel, try it!
1:20 what?
how to combine it with arduino uno??
I wonder If I can use a 12 volt 1 amp wall wart to power it
yup, should not be a problem
The WHOLE PS unit is rated 10V, 750 mA....
Can you use the USB port also as INPUT with a male to male USB cable?
how can i connect this board power supply with arduino mega board
Is it possible to feed the MB102 with the battery of a vehicle? Would there be any complications?
No. The voltage is to high. A car battery is charged up to 13,8 V.
how can u upload data? usb?
It is only a power supply no data needed.
@@alabamahouseflippers4480 not for power supply. there is a nano without usb .
What about rehearsing your speech before videoing it? And maybe understanding what you are doing and why?
Thats for powering the arduino controller
thank you so much!
When a You Tube presenter does a long pause and then says: "umm -Yeah!" - this is short hand for "Yeah - wish I'd done a little prep be for starting the camera recording.... :-(
I thought that too - his presentation is a little tedious.
I did a course on microprocessor programming on TH-cam some time ago. It runs for about 5 hours, and I spent a l-o-n-g time going through it and eliminating all the ums and urs.
I used the USB port to power up the entire module, not to charge or power up other things😐
yes.. why female usb ?? it should be mini usb
Rushikesh Raskar so it can charge phone and 💩
Yeah, output to phone or a device you install a b port to.
I have actually such a USB cable, only if I could find it.
What is the point of 3.3 V DC ?
what devices use 3.3 V DC ?
everybody talks about this power supply
but not one person will ever answer that question
LOL! You're scary, Dude. Still, nice review. Thanks for sharing.
What are the specs. ?
Some focus would be helpful :)
Yer, it's odd that people who make YT videos don't understand how focus works. Perhaps they have bad eyesight and everything looks like that always...
that's cool!!!
This board missing micro USB socket
You sound very South African lol
Focus dude
helpfull
You better do not upload your videos if you do not know the subject
How many volts is coming to power supply module ?? I bought a cheap bench power supply that's got a knob on it, that has setting 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v, 12v. Not sure which one to use. Thanks for any help!
9V
These power supply are not accurate and you need to measure the output voltage with a voltmeter. Without that, try 6V or even 5V.
Also, be careful with polarity (which usually can be set on the power supply). Check the circuit on the module to see whether center pin is + or -.