Having a selector switch for each side would be cool. Havng a display that shows the voltage, power consumption per rail, and total power consumption would also be really neat
have the pcb upside down, so only the board skims over the top of the breadboard to plugin the pins, all the electronics on the underside, adding the microcontroller also lets you dump the selector, a few buttons up/down and ... might be enough and a ledbar, that would need 2 part pcb, lower for electronics, upper for pins, make lower have output twice (side A +/-, side B -/+), so you can choose on which side to connect the upper board, soldered or flexible wires/ribbon, if possible have 3 usb c spaces on lower for 1 connector => top, middle, bottom.
Nice vid, suggestions: change the voltage selection to rotary encoder, move 3.3V selection to rotary encoder and make use of electronic switch(es) for the voltages not supported by usb-c pd. That could support more voltages... also use a detachable flexible pcb for the connection to the breadboard.
GND should be the outside rails on either side. This avoids orientation issues and makes it the same layout on either side. Voltage selection should be a button that must be held for a while to unlock. A switch that you can bump and overload your circuit isn't good. An on-board voltage regulator would be good as many USB supplies have significant ripple (100+ mV p-p) and output a higher voltage than stated.
Great suggestions. Unfortunately whoever made breadboards didn't think to put the GND rails on the outside. They have markings that are color coded to indicate positive and negative rails.
No way, I just designed and ordered a very similar PCB! I was having the same problem getting power conveniently on a breadboard, so I made the same C-shaped board. I just have a plug going to the power supply of my synthesizer, so mine is way simpler and only does +12v, -12v, and ground, but I also put in spots to solder optional headphone jacks or potentiometers.
@@bytesizedengineering Thanks, it would be helpful for the weird analog electronics people (such as myself ;) ). Something with atleast - 5/+5V and +3.3V, but selectable rails (don't need to be independent, just +/- 3.3, +/-5, +/- 9, +/- 12) and the 3.3v connection would be awesome! I do analog + digital stuff, and need the +/- supply with ground referenced to the usb connection to use other connected devices as well. Using the analog discovery 3 to do +/- 5V currently, but it doesn't have that third 3.3V connection.
@@bytesizedengineering I'm not a a marketing guy, but I'd definitely buy one! (or more) if you are thinking of the next version, a nice thing to have would be a separate power switch on the outputs and LEDs on the output lines. I'm constantly turning breadboards on and off to rewire them - mostly because they never work the first time. And being able to at a glance tell if the power is available (on the USB side) and powering the bread board (on the circuit side) can save a lot of the magic smoke from getting out.
@@bytesizedengineering Ok, my failure. I meant: are ALL PD power supplies required to produce ALL voltages up to 20V? Eg, my smartphone goes only up to 9V according to one of these Chinese PD monitors. The power supply it came with might be limited to 9V.
Brilliant. This should be a product you sell on DigiKey!
I agree 💯%
Having a selector switch for each side would be cool. Havng a display that shows the voltage, power consumption per rail, and total power consumption would also be really neat
USB PD only allows one voltage. The point of this design is to leverage PD voltage regulation.
Shut UP and take my money!
Let's see a v2! I love watching people improve version 1s.
The v2 will have a voltage selector harder to switch by mistake!
resetable fuse would be cool to have
have the pcb upside down, so only the board skims over the top of the breadboard to plugin the pins, all the electronics on the underside, adding the microcontroller also lets you dump the selector, a few buttons up/down and ... might be enough and a ledbar, that would need 2 part pcb, lower for electronics, upper for pins, make lower have output twice (side A +/-, side B -/+),
so you can choose on which side to connect the upper board, soldered or flexible wires/ribbon, if possible have 3 usb c spaces on lower for 1 connector => top, middle, bottom.
I like the concept a lot! I would be worried about bumping that voltage selector and frying something by accident though 🙂
I really want to buy this, especially with the optimizations you described, switches instead of jumpers, a screen, and even a resettable fuse!
Nice vid, suggestions: change the voltage selection to rotary encoder, move 3.3V selection to rotary encoder and make use of electronic switch(es) for the voltages not supported by usb-c pd. That could support more voltages... also use a detachable flexible pcb for the connection to the breadboard.
Knowing me I would knock the switch and fry my circuit
GND should be the outside rails on either side. This avoids orientation issues and makes it the same layout on either side.
Voltage selection should be a button that must be held for a while to unlock. A switch that you can bump and overload your circuit isn't good.
An on-board voltage regulator would be good as many USB supplies have significant ripple (100+ mV p-p) and output a higher voltage than stated.
Great suggestions. Unfortunately whoever made breadboards didn't think to put the GND rails on the outside. They have markings that are color coded to indicate positive and negative rails.
No way, I just designed and ordered a very similar PCB! I was having the same problem getting power conveniently on a breadboard, so I made the same C-shaped board. I just have a plug going to the power supply of my synthesizer, so mine is way simpler and only does +12v, -12v, and ground, but I also put in spots to solder optional headphone jacks or potentiometers.
I'd buy a boatload of those. I have the same issue of the supplies being unstable and blocking a lot of the connection rails.
One thing i often see missing are dual supplies, having positive and negative selectable voltages would be great
That's a good suggestion
@@bytesizedengineering Thanks, it would be helpful for the weird analog electronics people (such as myself ;) ). Something with atleast - 5/+5V and +3.3V, but selectable rails (don't need to be independent, just +/- 3.3, +/-5, +/- 9, +/- 12) and the 3.3v connection would be awesome! I do analog + digital stuff, and need the +/- supply with ground referenced to the usb connection to use other connected devices as well. Using the analog discovery 3 to do +/- 5V currently, but it doesn't have that third 3.3V connection.
Actually good ideation. Eager for the V2, if its ever going to be done or released.
Awesome circuit Zach! When are you putting it on Kickstarter?
Do you think there is a market for this? I have always wanted to run my own kickstarter for something.
@@bytesizedengineering I'm not a a marketing guy, but I'd definitely buy one! (or more) if you are thinking of the next version, a nice thing to have would be a separate power switch on the outputs and LEDs on the output lines. I'm constantly turning breadboards on and off to rewire them - mostly because they never work the first time. And being able to at a glance tell if the power is available (on the USB side) and powering the bread board (on the circuit side) can save a lot of the magic smoke from getting out.
cool Project. Does your board get hot when boosting power to 20V?
Let's go Cypress Semiconductor!
Are ALL USB-C power supllies capable of giving ALL voltages? What happens, if the power supply can not supply the chosen voltage?
No, a USB C power delivery or "PD" supply is needed. Link is in the description
@@bytesizedengineering Ok, my failure. I meant: are ALL PD power supplies required to produce ALL voltages up to 20V?
Eg, my smartphone goes only up to 9V according to one of these Chinese PD monitors. The power supply it came with might be limited to 9V.
Wow 😮
Nice project. What is the max current that can be supplied at each available voltage setting?
USB PD typically supplies 3A or so maximum.
5A
Good idea, but what is the max current in output?
5A max current
TAKE MY MONEY
Watching from Kerala India 🇮🇳 Bincy Elizabeth Mathew. Thank u for this video?
Nice work Zack, love your work, how can I reach you?
I have a contact form on my website bytesizedengineering
I would buy this lol.
take my money !!
Shut UP and take my money!