How do you properly remove parts from the runner and clean up the nubs left behind? Subscribe for more, and shop online at USA Gundam Store! www.usagundamstore.com
@@danzhangy2343 I was using her polishing stuff and a nail file. With cuticle cutters to get them off the runners. I have since gotten actual nippers tho well worth the investment
Im a first-time modeller to gundam. I do armour, aircraft, ships from 1/35 to 1/200 scale, thought I would give this a go. I wanted to see what the hype is lol.... It looks awesome
It's fun building, gundam. You can start with an easy one that's high grade. Probably get a 144 scale. To get used to it. The directions are in a different language, but they use numbers for directions, so it's easy to follow. The different grades are high-grade real grade mastergrade and perfect grade. The higher the grade, the more difficult the build is. I have built a high-grade areal grade and a master grade. Right now , I really like the real grades. There around 30 bucks, and it's as detailed as a master grade. Hopefully, this will help get you started, and happy building, bud.
I just bought a few gundam model kits myself to try out. Although before this I was building "zoid" models, specifically Kotobukiya's HMM line of zoids, which are highly detailed. You might want to check those out as well. Some of the classic models include Liger Zero, Berserk Fury, and if you are made of money, the massive Gojulas.
I don't know about the Japanese aircraft and boat kits, but I do know Gundams (and even the Zoid kits, back in the day) used a harder plastic than used in American model kits. More like the stuff used in toys...going from a Japanese kit back to a US kit, the latter feels soft.
@@Thegamercat420 One way to compare might to be to get a Bandai Star Wars kit, and then try to get a Revell kit of the same ship and scale, and compare that way.
For round parts i usually use sanding sponges. Usually a 3mm thickness or even a 2mm. As they follow the shape of the parts so you don’t accidentally flatten out the piece. As for coarseness. I usually start with either a 600 or an 800 grit depending on the size of the nub/marks. Then go up to 1000-2000-4000-6000 and finish off with an 8000. Hope this info is helpful.
Under-gating makes it easier to remove, though. Just make the second nipper cut flush. It's going to be hidden, so you don't have to worry about potential stress marks. It makes assembly much smoother by eliminating lengthy nub removal.
@@rzo_kenji well forget about it,yesterday i finally build my HG GM Command Space,and i cut the runners using my Scissor,one of my scissor have a similiarity like a Nipper,and it can cut the runners just like nippers
Don't ever do it because you will regret it and damage the part. If you don't have a nipper at the moment than it's worth the wait until you bought some good nippers.
Well you could find a cheap one, like in my country i could find a microcutter plier (nipper) for 7 MYR ( probably few a dollar and few cents in US dollar) in your hardware store. Or bought an Entry Grade kit before moving on to High Grade kit
![How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8I3D66tX9vw/mqdefault.jpg)
My girlfriend is a nail tech and I have been using on her tools to do everything and it works pretty good
What nail tools do you use?
@@danzhangy2343 I was using her polishing stuff and a nail file. With cuticle cutters to get them off the runners. I have since gotten actual nippers tho well worth the investment
you can still use a regular sandpaper to remove the nubs. Just fold them up to firm them and lightly sand to follow the form of the surface.
Absolutely! Just take care whether it’s a curved or flat surface
Honestly, the Raser is my favorite tool to use.
I like wet sanding the nubs; it helps in many ways.
I like wet sanding my nub. Jk lol
Bless your immortal soul 🙏🏽
Im a first-time modeller to gundam. I do armour, aircraft, ships from 1/35 to 1/200 scale, thought I would give this a go. I wanted to see what the hype is lol.... It looks awesome
It's fun building, gundam. You can start with an easy one that's high grade. Probably get a 144 scale. To get used to it. The directions are in a different language, but they use numbers for directions, so it's easy to follow. The different grades are high-grade real grade mastergrade and perfect grade. The higher the grade, the more difficult the build is. I have built a high-grade areal grade and a master grade. Right now , I really like the real grades. There around 30 bucks, and it's as detailed as a master grade. Hopefully, this will help get you started, and happy building, bud.
I just bought a few gundam model kits myself to try out. Although before this I was building "zoid" models, specifically Kotobukiya's HMM line of zoids, which are highly detailed. You might want to check those out as well. Some of the classic models include Liger Zero, Berserk Fury, and if you are made of money, the massive Gojulas.
I don't know about the Japanese aircraft and boat kits, but I do know Gundams (and even the Zoid kits, back in the day) used a harder plastic than used in American model kits. More like the stuff used in toys...going from a Japanese kit back to a US kit, the latter feels soft.
@VulpisFoxfire so japanese kits use harder plastics . Good to know. I'm going to have to get some japanese kits to see the difference. Thanks.
@@Thegamercat420 One way to compare might to be to get a Bandai Star Wars kit, and then try to get a Revell kit of the same ship and scale, and compare that way.
thank you
where are the links?
I gained knowledge
Remember that if you must cut toward you, hold it away from your body. Its better the knife digs into the piece then into your chest.
Can i use acrylic paint for hand painting gundams?
Curious, which kit were you using in this video?
I have two kinds of soft polishing bars: a kinda smooth one and a more "coarse" one. Which one should I use for round parts?
For round parts i usually use sanding sponges. Usually a 3mm thickness or even a 2mm. As they follow the shape of the parts so you don’t accidentally flatten out the piece.
As for coarseness. I usually start with either a 600 or an 800 grit depending on the size of the nub/marks. Then go up to 1000-2000-4000-6000 and finish off with an 8000.
Hope this info is helpful.
meanwhile we have kits with under-gating that you have remove the nubs or the parts cannot sit flush properly when you put them together.
yes, this video is very helpful for that 👍
Under-gating makes it easier to remove, though. Just make the second nipper cut flush. It's going to be hidden, so you don't have to worry about potential stress marks. It makes assembly much smoother by eliminating lengthy nub removal.
USAGS Branded Gunprimer Razer huh? Don't see it on the site yet. Teasing us with future merch or a special thing for yall?
any tips for ppl who arent as good as you with the hobby knife XD
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
I cut it exactly at the end of the gate 😂
is this zaku Aurelius talking?
Sounds like it actually.
@@Jociaoftradesyes it is.
I just leave it all fucked up looking
Hey dude i want to ask,can we cut a gunpla runners using Scissor?
No, you need to use a nipper
@@rzo_kenji well forget about it,yesterday i finally build my HG GM Command Space,and i cut the runners using my Scissor,one of my scissor have a similiarity like a Nipper,and it can cut the runners just like nippers
Don't ever do it because you will regret it and damage the part. If you don't have a nipper at the moment than it's worth the wait until you bought some good nippers.
@@saber_X-105 Just read your follow up comment on your question and I already answered, but happy to hear it worked out with the scissors.
@@yassinem356 well i can handle that actually,i build my GM Command Space in a perfect shape,nothing got damaged
When using a knife, always cut AWAY from yourself.
aside that good video 👍
What if you can’t afford the Snippers?
When Im starting to this hobby, Im using nail nippers as a starting tool like a caveman. Now im using the proper tools😆
if you can't afford a snipper, how do you plan on affording gunpla models?
Bruh
@@Denverian steal from someone
Well you could find a cheap one, like in my country i could find a microcutter plier (nipper) for 7 MYR ( probably few a dollar and few cents in US dollar) in your hardware store.
Or bought an Entry Grade kit before moving on to High Grade kit
😎👍🏼