i kinda feel mid about sanding, i guess it is a little bit more efficient and effective to sand and remove the stress marks, but at the same time it can grind off some crucial parts at an angle
Great video on the sanding part. I actually use a 4-step nail filing block that I picked up for relatively cheap at my local drug store. It has a side for filing, smoothing, buffing, and shining, and it works like a charm on even problematic colors like navy blue. I'll have to apply your methods to sanding with it since I end up rounding the edges sometimes.
Decided to try and get into gunpla and asked for some High-Grade kits for Christmas, coming in late as I'm nearly 30 lol, and glad to find this channel to help educate myself before I end up screwing up possibly on Christmas day lol. As I wait for that day, I'll watch these vids and more gundam anime to add to the list of what gunpla models I want in the future haha
Great video! I've pre-ordered a couple kits from BBTS and am collecting info and tools to get back into modeling. Your videos are definitely getting my confidence level back up.
😂 fair point! I have been using Squadron sanding sticks for a while, but they don’t specify what grit number (ex: #800 grit) each stick is. I’m pretty sure there are some GodHand or Creos brand sanding sticks that do specify the grit. But I can’t imagine any brand would be that much better than another. You could also save some money and make your own with some sandpaper from a hardware store and popsicle sticks!
I don't understand the reason for cutting so far from the part (as in leaving in more part of the runner). Why not save a step and cut as close as your comfortable with and just remove the nubmark, especially if you have a sharp pair of God Hand?
You have a knack and talent for explaining, very eloquent voice too which helps a lot! I have a question when using sand sticks, I read that the higher the number the sharper the sand stick, but I don't really know where to start when applying it to a piece. If for example I have 5 sand sticks, I should use them all in order, as in lowest to highest?
Thank you, I appreciate the compliment! Short answer, yes, you would use them lowest to highest. With lower grits, try light passes to keep from taking off too much material. Each time you move up in grit, think of it like you're trying to remove the scratches from the previous sanding stick. The higher grit number, the closer to a polished finish you'll get, but in terms of gunpla/model kits, most people will stop after 1500-2000.
The dark mark will stay there because of how the parts are made; the plastic flows in through the nub and forms the part. Think of it like cutting a branch off of a tree, you can sand down the leftover nub to make it smooth, but you'll still be able to see the spot where the branch grew out of
As long as you have a single-bladed nipper you should be good to go. The reason you'd ideally want two nippers is because: 1. if you do all the cutting with your single-bladed nipper, it will wear out faster 2. if you cut thicker parts or harder plastic (like clear parts) there's a greater chance of damaging the blade
Hey guys, I'm new into gunpla and I actually bought my first kit here in South Korea. I hot my tool kits and support base as well... Problem is, when I fly back to Mexico, do you think the tools will cause any trouble at customs? I don't want them to open my luggage and realize my model "got lost"
That's something you'll need to check with the airline you're flying with about. Unfortunately, I have no advice to give on that matter as it deals with laws that I'm not completely familiar with.
LoL I've just been cutting flush against the part right off the runner. Using the 'TAMIYA Sharp Pointed Side Cutters'. Then sanding the entire piece to remove any surface defects from the molding. The Raser you showed off in your other video is pretty cool, lawlz for the cheap ass material they give you to clean it to make it seem more 'premium'.
I’ve been cutting flush to the part too. Aside from perhaps some parts being difficult to get flush while on the runner, is there a good reason for not cutting flush?
@@tjmb In my opinion, I think it's more wear on your tool to double cut. My tool is able to get pretty damn close. And being that I normally sand all my parts anyways for paint. I don't care about any white marks, as they'll just be covered with paint anyways.
@@NathanClevenger1337 thanks for the response, that makes sense to me. Just wanted to make sure there wasn’t some “super pro” reason for not snipping too close. I bought some Valtcan nippers that get very close and I’m pleased with the result. Cheers!
@@tjmb not getting super close to the piece allows you to take off layers without taking a chunk out of the part. Sometimes if you don’t cut the part at the correct angle with even good nippers you will cause stress marks on the plastic or actually cause a sink or low spot in the plastic. Cutting further away from the part gives you less margin of error honestly. If what your doing works for you. Don’t change it up. 😅
![How to Prep Your Gunpla: Removing Nub Marks and Other Surface Imperfections [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8I3D66tX9vw/mqdefault.jpg)
i kinda feel mid about sanding, i guess it is a little bit more efficient and effective to sand and remove the stress marks, but at the same time it can grind off some crucial parts at an angle
Great video on the sanding part.
I actually use a 4-step nail filing block that I picked up for relatively cheap at my local drug store. It has a side for filing, smoothing, buffing, and shining, and it works like a charm on even problematic colors like navy blue.
I'll have to apply your methods to sanding with it since I end up rounding the edges sometimes.
wow you get me straight to the point before i start shopping ty so much
Decided to try and get into gunpla and asked for some High-Grade kits for Christmas, coming in late as I'm nearly 30 lol, and glad to find this channel to help educate myself before I end up screwing up possibly on Christmas day lol. As I wait for that day, I'll watch these vids and more gundam anime to add to the list of what gunpla models I want in the future haha
Great video! I've pre-ordered a couple kits from BBTS and am collecting info and tools to get back into modeling. Your videos are definitely getting my confidence level back up.
So many tutorials on this topic but I liked yours the best...nice job!
Thank you, glad I could help!
Very well done! I've got my first kit coming in the mail and this has been the clearest explanation of the cutting and preparation process.
Glad it was helpful!
This is great and best opening ever lol!
I'm gonna put together a Figure Rise Goku (new specs version) pretty soon! Thanks for the help!
This made me more confident with my Raser1.5 purchase.
Glad to hear that, the whole Raser line up are all great products 🙂
@@aMillaGunpla quite a little bit costly, but seems to be a really versatile and long lasting tool.
So when looking into the kinds of sanding sticks it's like the anime fate, i don't know where to start and there is all kinds of them.
😂 fair point! I have been using Squadron sanding sticks for a while, but they don’t specify what grit number (ex: #800 grit) each stick is. I’m pretty sure there are some GodHand or Creos brand sanding sticks that do specify the grit. But I can’t imagine any brand would be that much better than another.
You could also save some money and make your own with some sandpaper from a hardware store and popsicle sticks!
Criminally underrated
I don't understand the reason for cutting so far from the part (as in leaving in more part of the runner). Why not save a step and cut as close as your comfortable with and just remove the nubmark, especially if you have a sharp pair of God Hand?
This was extraordinarily informative and succinct. Bravo!
Thank you! I prefer watching videos that cut to the chase, so that's what I am to do as well!
What grit you mean by medium, fine, very fine? 800, 1200, 2500?
The Raser is legit.
You have a knack and talent for explaining, very eloquent voice too which helps a lot! I have a question when using sand sticks, I read that the higher the number the sharper the sand stick, but I don't really know where to start when applying it to a piece. If for example I have 5 sand sticks, I should use them all in order, as in lowest to highest?
Thank you, I appreciate the compliment! Short answer, yes, you would use them lowest to highest. With lower grits, try light passes to keep from taking off too much material. Each time you move up in grit, think of it like you're trying to remove the scratches from the previous sanding stick.
The higher grit number, the closer to a polished finish you'll get, but in terms of gunpla/model kits, most people will stop after 1500-2000.
@@aMillaGunpla thanks, will try the one you used in the video.
If you have some good nippers cut right up to the pieces and possibly no sanding needed just depends how well you can make your cut.
Great video! I’m trying to lift up my skill to be advanced level. This really helps me.
After sanding, i still can see dark mark, do you know why?
The dark mark will stay there because of how the parts are made; the plastic flows in through the nub and forms the part. Think of it like cutting a branch off of a tree, you can sand down the leftover nub to make it smooth, but you'll still be able to see the spot where the branch grew out of
@@aMillaGunpla tq for help
You deserve way more view and subs!
Thank you!
The stubborn nubmarks on dark color plastics are the most annoying! Just look at MG Strike Freedom’s wings and backpack.
Extremely underrated
Thank you! It's actually crazy to see how much the channel has changed in less than a year. Hope you stick around for the long haul 😛
@@aMillaGunpla damn right i will, with that production quality and soothing voice i'll stay forever
For intermediate do i need to have 2 nippers? I’m on a pretty tight budget
As long as you have a single-bladed nipper you should be good to go. The reason you'd ideally want two nippers is because:
1. if you do all the cutting with your single-bladed nipper, it will wear out faster
2. if you cut thicker parts or harder plastic (like clear parts) there's a greater chance of damaging the blade
Gray parts can be a pain. What I do on cheaper kits is just get it good enough and blend in some gray panel liner.
so amazing!
Hey guys, I'm new into gunpla and I actually bought my first kit here in South Korea. I hot my tool kits and support base as well...
Problem is, when I fly back to Mexico, do you think the tools will cause any trouble at customs? I don't want them to open my luggage and realize my model "got lost"
That's something you'll need to check with the airline you're flying with about. Unfortunately, I have no advice to give on that matter as it deals with laws that I'm not completely familiar with.
Good job!!!!
The music 🔥
For sure! On first listen I had to use it, props to Reggie San Miguel!
👍👍
NUBMARK REMOVAL *updated* for 2022?
LoL I've just been cutting flush against the part right off the runner. Using the 'TAMIYA Sharp Pointed Side Cutters'. Then sanding the entire piece to remove any surface defects from the molding. The Raser you showed off in your other video is pretty cool, lawlz for the cheap ass material they give you to clean it to make it seem more 'premium'.
Yeah the denim patches are... well, they stay in the box for me lol
I’ve been cutting flush to the part too. Aside from perhaps some parts being difficult to get flush while on the runner, is there a good reason for not cutting flush?
@@tjmb In my opinion, I think it's more wear on your tool to double cut. My tool is able to get pretty damn close. And being that I normally sand all my parts anyways for paint. I don't care about any white marks, as they'll just be covered with paint anyways.
@@NathanClevenger1337 thanks for the response, that makes sense to me. Just wanted to make sure there wasn’t some “super pro” reason for not snipping too close. I bought some Valtcan nippers that get very close and I’m pleased with the result. Cheers!
@@tjmb not getting super close to the piece allows you to take off layers without taking a chunk out of the part. Sometimes if you don’t cut the part at the correct angle with even good nippers you will cause stress marks on the plastic or actually cause a sink or low spot in the plastic. Cutting further away from the part gives you less margin of error honestly. If what your doing works for you. Don’t change it up. 😅
Even the coveted SPN-120's aren't getting acceptable results for me... I'm clearly doing something wrong 🤦🏻♂️