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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2020
- Upgrading Staircase Balusters.
Sorry guys. I was holding the phone with one hand and demonstrating the necessary steps with one hand. I should’ve recruited one of my kids to film it 😅🤦🏻♂️.
Thanks for watching! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you very much you just gave me the best idea since I’ll be replacing the floor soon I’ll be installing new metal ones ❤️
What I like about this video is your attempt to save the old balusters, which is what I wanted to do but find it rather difficult. This is the only one that I have seen doing so. All other videos that I found had the authors just cutting off the wooden balusters.
Clever approach for keeping the option of changing out baluster(s) for different styles at any point in future--without having hassle of removing epoxy. That's the real beauty of this approach.
And it’s fun if you like doing these kinds of home projects 👌
@@Sal-75-2 ,
how to remove these types of metal spindles when they are glued in place ?? there is no slack to wiggle them up and down either. Do we have to take off the top wooden handrail or do you have another solution ??
@@BlueOriginAire run a sawzall down the middle of them and pull them out
@@BlueOriginAire wow. Seems like going to be a messy and time consuming job. If I were in that situation I would saw in the center to split the upper and the bottom then I would take a monkey wrench to the base of the bottom piece and rotate it in a circular motion back-and-forth see if I can loosen it and the same for the top. If this doesn’t even work then you would just have to sawoff the ends and I would take a flat type screwdriver and hammer in to the remaining piece of wood baluster to split it and pry it out from the hole that way. Mine wasn’t super glued but yes they do tend to glue them if not screwed. Hope this helps
@@Sal-75-2 it was just liquid nails jammed up in the holes... once drilled around.. each came out in about the same time....gtsy in the chat 🤜🏽⚡️🤛🏾
I really appreciate this video exactly what I needed to be demonstrated, nice job no apology needed.
Thanks so much for the screw idea! Has to make it super sturdy. Ordering the parts to switch my wood balusters to iron!
Great job....loved watching this straight forward instruction!
This is fantastic! Just what I was looking for to take on this project. Thank you for sharing!
It takes some time and persistence but it’s totally doable and a rock solid job with this approach instead of filling glue in the holes.
i loved your video. Short and to the point. Thank you SO MUCH
Crispy clean .. awesome job
Wow! Great job, looks amazing!
Wow you make it look so easy. Thanks, I will give it a try.
Looks great. 👍
Great to the point video! Really like the screw method, rather than gluing in the new balusters. But...was hoping you would show how to ka-ra-te chop the old balusters out...
It’s in the video. Luckily mine were mildly glued on the bottom and a trim mail to the top as I show the extractions. But some folks glued top and bottom in a nasty way. You may have to hollow them out with a drill after cutting out the middle parts if that’s the case which is a lot off work. Try the method i used of prying then up from the bottom. Hope it works out for you. It’s a fun project for me.
Wow! You made it look so easy! I can try it now thanks to your video
Takes some time but definitely doable. I was scared until I plucked out the first wooden baluster.
I just looked at mine. There are no peg holes for my spindles. They appear to be glued down. Not sure how they are attached but one is loose so I can clearly see no peg holes. What size hole for the metal one?
Sorry guys. I was holding the phone with one hand and demonstrating the necessary steps with the other hand. I should’ve recruited one of my kids to film it 😅🤦🏻♂️.
Thanks for watching!
What is the width of these new balusters? 1/2 " or 3/4 inch? Can you add a link to the particular style?
I'm in the middle of doing this exact same project right now. I am using the shoes on the top and bottom, but after watching this, may reconsider just doing the bottom. What side drill bit and screws did you use? Thanks for the video!
where did you find this product??
@@ethans1927 Lowes Iron Balusters
Hey was wandering if we lift the spindle into place then pour the bottom hole with an anchoring adhesive like Pro select from Lowe's to lock the spindle in place . May save time installing . Someone make a cuttable metal spindle with a spring loaded clip at the top ...
Wow, that seems like a real pain in the butt approach. The TNT system is super slick and doesn't risk splitting the railing.
What's the TNT system?
@@antes_muerta_k_sencilla4945 th-cam.com/video/_mPdItBN_-E/w-d-xo.html
Pricey! My project would have costed me an extra $400 solid if I took this approach vs drill and screw. Personally, I had fun doing the project manually and it’s rock solid + saved me $400. Certainly a great option for people not comfortable with the manual approach.
It didn’t split any part of the railing in my case. I installed 96 of these.
Thaks a lot!!!!!
Hello, i had wood spindles with a finishing nail at top. I see you used vice grips to remove the finishing nail and then push anything remaining flat. What should you do if nail is further up and vice grip is too long? I've tried nose players but hard to reach. Too much nail to just push up as you showed in video.
Yes. You are right. I had that issue also. Sorry, didn’t show in the video. I used a tool I’ve had for yrs and never used it until this happened. It’s a question mark shaped tool with a grip handle. I used it to pull out the nail so i could grab it. As you can see I’m careful not to damage the wooden rail at all by attempting to yank it out which will surely take away some part of wood with it. Try to look for any tool at Home Depot or Lowe’s with a hook type working end so you can hook the nail and pull it out. For me it was just a random tool from ages ago that came in handy.
I just did this on a job and found some needle-nose "vise grips". Those thin brad nails are super weak and you can wiggle them back and forth until they break. Takes a bit to get the hang of it but I can get it to break at the wood surface almost every time. They are really in the way if they stick out 1/16" .
I found angled needle nose pliers at AUTO ZONE (of all places) the guy there said auto mechanics use them all the time. I bought them even before I had a use for them bc they looked like they'd work in tight spaces . . . now everyone at work tries to steal them
The screw is smart. I glued mine in with liquid nails like caulk.
Contractors quoted me over 6k and they were going to glue top and bottom as well. I screwed top and bottom solid, entire project around $1000. Spent ~$300 on power tools but I keep those. The entire structure is solid as heck and clean job.
hi, Sal... do you know where i can get that carpet runner from... I have the curtains, but can't seem to find the runner in that design
Honestly, No idea. The home builders put it in.
very nice! what size balusters did you go with? thanks
Sorry late response. You may have discovered that there is only one standard size out there in hardware stores.
Wonderful demonstration, looks great! Where did you buy the iron balusters?
All materials and tools from Lowes.
We are thinking of doing a similar project. May we ask where did you buy the iron balusters from and what type of hardwood flooring and color is that?
“House of Forgings” Satin Black Wrought Iron Classic Baluster. Bought from Lowes last summer. The finish on then is great. Quality product. I’ll get you the name/color of the hardwood. I have the box somewhere in the basement.
Unfortunately the box doesn’t give any helpful info. If you can find Toll brothers Design studio near by, I used everything from there. www.tollbrothersdesignstudio.com/
good luck!
@@Sal-75-2 ,
we have a project to refinish the oak stair treads and these exact same balusters are in there good and tight with liquid nails. They spin when we pry them loose from that glue. But there is zero slack to move them up or down to remove them. Would help our edger guy sand if these are not in the way. Short of Grinding these out and replacing them, is there another way to remove them ??
@@BlueOriginAire Exactly why I did not use glue and use screws. All the slack in the handrail above your baluster is jampacked with glue there’s no way to get it out. If I were in your Situation, I would sacrifice the baluster you have right now cut it in half weather saw probably electric saw pry out the top then pry out the bottom then I will take a drill and drill in some of that glue to give me a room for new baluster installation. This is what I would do.I would definitely not attempt to remove the handrail.
@@Sal-75-2 .
we were able to dig out the hardened glue from the bottom, and luckily, the top portion had no glue. Once we opened up the hole the little bastards dropped down and tilted out easy. We got lucky. Thanx for your reply.
Everything helps. ✌🏽
Where you buy the iron balusters??
Outstanding! Did you use the same type screens for the top and bottom? I think I saw a slight drill angle used. You saved me some serious $ with this. Just hope that my minimal skills can make good cuts on the balusters and get it done for the wife to smile!
Thanks you! Trim screws for the top railing so they disappear. Yes. Drill angle to drive the screw in a 45 degree angle so it doesn’t catch the thin part of the edge of the hardwood flooring. Shouldn’t be a hard project but I am a surgeon by trade LOL, so IDK. I random projects around the house so am not a pro at these things myself.
And yes! The wife loves the outcome! Let’s just leave it there 😂
It looks like it would be a pain to screw in the balusters...I have seen other videos that use epoxy. Is that not a good way?
I preferred that over using a permanent epoxy option. Your preference really. Either would get the job done. I found my approach to be a clean and easily replaceable option.
There’s the TNT option if not comfortable with manual installation.
www.homedepot.com/p/Stair-Parts-Tap-and-Twist-1-2-in-Hollow-Metal-Baluster-Install-Kit-92001-TNT-HD00S/300431475#overlay
Hello, I would like to know how long these railings are after balusters😁
do you have to unscrew/loosen up the hand rail first before removing th spindles/balluster?
?
No. Nothing needs to be done to the hand rail installation. Balusters come out individually. Do one at a time for family safety reasons.
I basically removed one, replaced it with iron baluster , removed other and so on… bc I have kids and didn’t want gaps during the project duration
How do you make the rod fit that is longer then the gap between the floor and the rail?
Rods are always sold very long. You gotta cut them to size as shown in the video
@@Sal-75-2 this may be a dumb question, but what would be a good/inexpensive tool to cut the rod? What tool was it that you used?
@@lindsaymarques8861That was a reciprocating saw. A miter saw will go through aluminum quite well, just go slowly.
@@MrDesuhland correct. Thanks for answering! Reciprocating saw from Home Depot. These balusters are wrought Iron not aluminum however.
@@Sal-75-2 I understand they have to be cut to fit, but doing it like you did one-by-one without lifting or removing the handrail, how do you wedge each baluster into the space so it fits tight, top to bottom, without mangling the underside of the handrail or the base at the floor?
Amazing video. Where did you buy the metal balusters?
Lowes
I wanted to do this project but if I switch from my wooden to iron balusters using the existing holes the space between will be greater than 4 inches. I've been told that the maximum by code must be 4" or less, I'm seeing most of the iron balusters are 1/2, Anyone know of wider ones?
My standard off the shelf Iron balusters from Lowes sit within the code having bar-bar free space of 3.33 inches. Some inexperienced builders measure 4 inches from the fat wooden balusters they use and drill their holes accordingly which is completely wrong way of doing this installation. The holes themselves first have to be measured and drilled within the code the balusters go after. If they choose to use the fattest wooden balusters in the world well then they’re going to be super close to each other if the holes are drilled correctly. And when homeowners at any point decide to switch to iron balusters which by standard are not really that thick, they’ll by default fall within the code because the holes are made accurately. I highly doubt you’re going to find fat enough iron balusters but it may be possible. I did not see them anywhere on the Internet or stores I doubt if they exist. I’m just not sure.
late answer, but maybe you're still mulling this over. Balusters done to modern code are typically going to be spaced 4" on center, not specifically 4" apart. So the space between them is actually less than 4". If your balusters were built to modern code and you're using pre-existing holes, chances are good you'll be fine regardless as even two 1/2 balusters placed 4" on center will result in a gap that's less than 4". This is tested using a 4" sphere test. Basically if a 4" sphere can pass between them then it's not up to code. The real question is whether or not your existing balusters were built to current code. If they're not, then it doesn't matter really. If you're using pre-existing holes I suggest you get some tap-N-Twist mounts as they will keep your balusters on center.
Waw the very good and beautiful
Thank you!! 😊❤️
What do you charge labor wise for something g like this?
For me it was a home project but we did get a quote for $6000 from a professional. I did two stair cases and a hallway totaling 96 individual baluster installations. Costed me $1000 for parts and $300 for machines( drill, electric saw etc) I bought (which I get to keep obviously)
$6000! Just for changing out the spindles? Or did the 6K involve more work?
How much time did it take to remove 1 and install 1?
Maybe like 15 mins or so
top
Looks great. We have the same on but the ones at the first step are wobbly because of no support and the starting baluster is in the curve. How to fix this problem
It’s possible yours are done with epoxy glue which comes loose over the yrs. You may have to drill screws in to the loose ones like I did in the video. My bottom screw is hidden by baluster shoes though. Hope this works.
@@Sal-75-2 : many thanks man for the help. Once the screws the bottom iron balusters, would it be as strong if have a wooden baluster
@@squeekhobby4571 yes! As you see my bottom screw is fatter, placed in a 45 degree angle to the hardwood for anchor and another stabilizing flush screw on top times a hundred of these to the railing and hardwood my entire construct is solid. I even put some muscle into try and shake the handrail. Nothing! No movement. And that’s why I used hardware instead of glue. Done once done right
@@Sal-75-2 : you are awesome. Thanks, will do the same at my place
Where did you purchase the iron rods/ baluster ?
I bought them from stair brothers on e-bay. He has a big selection. You can get ones that are hollow or solid.....
@@2112Fade2Black Thank you so much!
Lowes.
How many balusters did you replace? And how long did it take?
Near 100. Time can’t be judged bc I didn’t work continuously. Some days after work mostly weekends etc. around two months at that pace but if i had all the time in the world probably would have taken me 3-4 days straight
I was just doing a couple of hours here and there as a side project 🤷♂️
@@Sal-75-2 thanks
Since the Iron Balusters are hollow, I'm not sure how you can tighten the screws though.
screw goes THROUGH baluster into the wood
Hiw to keep them from rattling?
With top and bottom as well as the shoes screwed in tight as opposed to glue or something else, I have zero rattle or loosening in any of the 90+ balusters
I have round metal balusters. The epoxy that held the shoes at the bottom gave way. Now the shoes spin at the bottom of the balusters. Its annoying and looks like crap, I like the screw you have on your shoes.
Everything drilled and screwed gives a solid clean structure 👍
My down stairs are at a angle with post. Suggestions
Sorry, I’ve never seen them that way. Maybe someone else here can comment.
Where are these from?
Lowes
Where did you get the materials? Never mind, found the answer in another comment. Thanks.
Lowes
I would use a drywall screw , those deck screws are too fat . could split or crack wood easier .... drywall screws are "skinnier" ..... no need for such a heavy duty screw
Hey take a look at this video
Epoxy or construction adhesive would have been more secure, faster and easier.
Honestly, this project was more fun!
OMG that music 😤
The wooden balusters look much better than the metal ones you have inserted. The metal rods will date very quickly.
It looked fine before
Of course it looked fine. If you like the white wooden look. It's a matter of preference for what you want your home that you pay a mortgage for to look like. ...not what is just 'fine'.
Terrible video to view! Great info but couldn’t see all