How can you mention torque settings without even mentioning what bike it is? Maybe I'm wrong and you did mention it. And you didn't show the drag after you installed the floating buttons.
I think I prefer the factory washer. Warning make sure you use the proper thread locker as you'll mess up your ride if you use high strength or permanent thread locker !
I see that I can buy these buttons online, but how will I know if they fit? My Brembo discs are 4.5 mm. But there are no difference in the diameter of the buttons?
Wollte mal sehen wie man die Reibscheiben wechselt, allerdings die Teile ( Befestigungskit, wohl auch "floter" genannt) durch Zubehör mit ein paar lächerlichen Clips zu tauschen halte ich für nicht empfehlenswert. Es hat schon seinen Grund warum die Scheibe eigentlich nicht schwimmend war. Die Wärmeableitung sollte hier stark beeinflusst sein. Teile kaufen und pressen lassen, fertig. Wer sich auf das gezeigte im Video einlässt kann komplette Scheiben von fachkündigen Herstellern auch China ohne Gutachten bestellen, erspart die Arbeitszeit.
The only place I could find them is a site called bellissimoto.com, bit.ly/2IL1Fby However, it doesn't seem to allow the option of buying the washers separately like TPO did. I'm sure there's heaps of other sources for the washers if you know the measurements, I believe they were 0.5mm thick as well.
This is an extremely late reply, but it might help others. I got the buttons from TPO Parts, but I think they've closed down now. I'd rather not publish a specific size, because every bike (including different year models of the same bike) may have different rotors. It's important to measure your own rotors.
Hello HTM I got a 2004 GSXR750 the bobbins were seized tight and was having shakes on braking. I tried the bobbin clamping rotating cleaning trick which worked for one short ride around town. Tried again with nothing good. I estimated that the bobbins, which are basically big heavy duty rivets, just needed loosening, expansion wider. So I made a custom wood support for the disc to lay perfectly flat on and used a punch and hammer, striking the rivet tip 3-4 times until I got each one loose. What ends up happening is the washer goes from being tight/flat to slightly dished, freeing the bobbin assembly from the rest. Now they are full floating and rattle like yours. What I wasnt sure of is safety and you seem to have had long term success with your floaters which gives me way more confidence. I will eventually replace the discs within a few weeks or months. Would love to get your thoughts on all this. Btw, I am a veteran mechanical engineer 25 years been turning wrenches for 45 and don't take unnecessary risks which is why I am so keen on your video, thanks for sharing your approach and especially the long term good results your having!
I suppose the main concern with your method ensuring the bobbins don't break off/come loose or seize. The bobbins I used were brand new with fresh washers. Note, I have since replaced my discs with Brembo Supersport discs as any metal to metal contact will wear and become "too loose". I think it's a good idea to consider the brake discs as a consumable item just like the brake pads. I think I did get over 20 000 kms on them though.
hello friend I need your help and been looking for these rotors on ebay and not found anything at all you could leave me a link or something to buy them by ebay but eye has to be especially the ebay page please friend help me I will be very grateful!
It is heavily dependant on which model of bike you have, and whether you have stock or aftermarket rotors. I can show you the link for these specific buttons but I cannot be sure they will fit, please check the diameter and width of the buttons you require before buying. Unfortunately, I couldn't find them on eBay. bit.ly/2XpFaw4
The buttons on the opposite side of the rotor keep it from being able to move back away from from the other button. That's why the only movement in the rotor is side to side.
I hadn't considered top speed, but to be honest, if your brakes were limiting your top speed, there would be a much greater issue. This mod is more about increasing brake feeling and minimally reducing brake temps and wear.
Hi, you said these buttons are for ducatis however which ducatis. Need to know the specs so answer will help. My daytona 675 need new buttons since it has a lot of play in front to back motion. Or in general you said thickness of button shall be 4mm for daytona 675 rotors what about diameter of bobbins?
There is a reason that main dealers don't sell buttons .And there is a reason that no Haynes manual ever recommends spinning the buttons to cure brake problems.And if you have EBC X series fully floating rotors the buttons have flat sides and can't be turned.And those fully floating rotors have zero play in any direction.In fact EBC explains that the buttons only job is to allow radial expansion of the disc.Nothing to do with alignment.
On a side note the KTM Buttons are smaller than the {maybe Ducati } buttons I ordered so sometimes to play with this stuff you may need a metal lathe . I need to shave ten thou off each button .
Exactly, you always need to check. It was just coincidence that the buttons I ordered were the same size for the Triumph stock rotors. I did do the research before ordering though.
Unfortunately the diameters are not listed where they are sold. But measuring the KTMs are smaller. You can hold them in those expanding mandrels to shave a bit off . But measure don't guess how much.
@@kaisers30 Your disc might be "semi-floating" meaning it has the wavy washers like mine. If that's the case, yes you can convert them but you have to find the perfect buttons by matching the diameter and width.
It is heavily dependant on which model of bike you have, and whether you have stock or aftermarket rotors. I can show you the link for these specific buttons but I cannot be sure they will fit, please check the diameter and width of the buttons you require before buying. bit.ly/2XpFaw4
Don't forget to grease the discs themselves so they glide through the caliper, reducing resistance. Now go out and ride really really fast and enjoy that reduced friction.
The place I bought these from is now out of business (TPO Parts), however, if you search for "Brake buttons" for your respective bike, you should find an equivalent pretty easily.
@@howtomoto hey man, thank you for the video. Unfortunately google doesn't give me any good results for Daytona 675 brake buttons. If you know somewhere that sells it, please let me know!
It is heavily dependant on which model of bike you have, and whether you have stock or aftermarket rotors. I can show you the link for these specific buttons but I cannot be sure they will fit, please check the diameter and width of the buttons you require before buying. The original seller must have gone out of business, here is a new link I found bit.ly/2XpFaw4
@@ib9459 HI, yes it is expensive, but these buttons are made out of very strong material. When modifying brakes, it's important to only use quality parts. I have ridden with these buttons for 25 000kms. and now the whole rotor needs to be replaced. I don't know how long cheaper buttons would last.
+Xerith Stock rotor was 4 mm thick, so if you use the link provided and DO NOT order extra washers, it will work for a 4.5mm rotor (note: please make sure the diameter of the buttons are suitable for a cbr 600)
Maybe I missed it, but what are the actual benefits of doing this? Is this only to reduce drag? I understand that it may reduce pad wear but only to now increase wear on the rotor rivets, so I'm not understanding the 'why' given the trade off. Thanks
I'd say the reduction in drag is minimal. The main reason I personally did this was to remove brake shuddered from a slightly bent rotor. However, another big advantage I got was brake feel improvements and the ability to modulate the brakes better. Brakes are "semi-floating" from factory to allow for the expansion and contraction of the braking disc versus the centre hub, but the factory has to compromise to remove noise and wear between the hub and disc, hence only making them semi-floating.
My KTM brakes are riveted tight and I got full floaters for them .The service manager is telling m they will wear out much faster .I never heard of this .Any comments ?
Full floating brakes do wear out the buttons that hold the disc to the carrier. Anything that has movement, will eventually cause wear. Everything is a compromise, stock rotors may last longer (on the street) but full floaters feel better and may reduce fluid temps, it just depends on which trade of you're willing to accept.
I'm not worried about wear on the buttons. He states that everything will wear out fast ,pads rotors, calipers. I'm not believing him . I have set up full floaters on other bikes but I don't use them much to tell about wear.
It has absolutely zero effect on calipers, that claim makes no sense. If anything, pads and rotors will last longer because they're not rubbing on one side (in the case of sticky or stuck brake pistons)
@@howtomoto This is the reason why StopTech rotors only use the bobbins to hold the rotor on the carrier, they are NOT a stress member. The carrier and the steel rotor have notches to provide the braking, the buttons or bobbins are just aligning devices.
Have you got an updated link to the buttons you used? The one posted isn't working. Would like to do this to a set for my track bike. Nice work, and great video. Anyone who knows anything about motorcycles knows that full floating is wonderful.
The link still seems to be working, here is the website address "tpoparts.com" search "Full-Floating Brake Rotor Buttons". Just remember that different bikes have different inner diameter and width buttons. Width can be solved by ordering extra washers, but diameter needs to be specific to your bike.
Ah, ok, I'm familiar with TPO. They are for a CBR1000, rotor width is 4.5mm, so I believe I need an extra flat washer for each one, I just haven't found them separately yet.
I found the shim washers... but they state an extra washer is needed for 4mm rotors... which the kit specifies they are for all brembo rotors, which are 5mm rotors. So I'm still a little lost on my specific application, and what is needed, but thank you for the point in the right direction.
From memory, the buttons on that site are for 4.5mm rotors, and I bought extra washers because mine are 4mm (my rotors are Sunstar branded not Brembo).
Yes it did, and the reason is to stop unwanted noise on the street. Floating buttons are desirable , which is why the OEM made them semi-floating instead of completely fixed. (Also I am an engineering student)
If you buy Brembo's HPK Discs (the super sport race upgrade discs) they are fully floating as you have done, so I am with you on this as a worthwhile upgrade, the discs don't create any pad drag, they pretty much eliminate it purely at the expense of some rattle - I have both OE Brembo & HPK on my track wheels
It doesn't make the braking more powerful. What a full floating rotor will do is give you much better feel and no vibration. The only drawback is the rattle over bumps during slow speeds.
Still going strong at 35,000 kms and multiple track days. All I know is I am braking smoother, more confidently and with more control than the stock set up.
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
"a little bit of loctite" *marinates the bolt*
:)
+Benjamin Rich haha I wiped it off, hard to see what you're doing while trying to make sure the bolt was in the frame
exacly my thought !
How can you mention torque settings without even mentioning what bike it is? Maybe I'm wrong and you did mention it. And you didn't show the drag after you installed the floating buttons.
Exactly. Nice guide in general, but for the specific torque **always** consult your bike service manual.
I think I prefer the factory washer. Warning make sure you use the proper thread locker as you'll mess up your ride if you use high strength or permanent thread locker !
No need to apply so much Loctite. Just a thin stripe from head to tip will do. Great video!
You are not wrong sir, haha.
Danke für das tolle Video .
Bitte
I see that I can buy these buttons online, but how will I know if they fit? My Brembo discs are 4.5 mm. But there are no difference in the diameter of the buttons?
Great video.How much free lateral movement has the rotor after the upgrade?
These were 4.5mm buttons on a 4mm rotor. I used 2 x 0.1mm washers, so there was 0.3mm of play left.
Nice video.
Btw, it's newton meters not nano meters. ;)
He repeatedly said "Newton Meters"??
NORDIKBIKES l think the fact that he owns a torque wrench tells you something.
Wollte mal sehen wie man die Reibscheiben wechselt, allerdings die Teile ( Befestigungskit, wohl auch "floter" genannt) durch Zubehör mit ein paar lächerlichen Clips zu tauschen halte ich für nicht empfehlenswert. Es hat schon seinen Grund warum die Scheibe eigentlich nicht schwimmend war. Die Wärmeableitung sollte hier stark beeinflusst sein. Teile kaufen und pressen lassen, fertig. Wer sich auf das gezeigte im Video einlässt kann komplette Scheiben von fachkündigen Herstellern auch China ohne Gutachten bestellen, erspart die Arbeitszeit.
If you have that much drag your forks are tweaked. Loosen your triple tree clamps and give it a shake, tighten it all back down.
Doing the same modification but having trouble finding the additional washers. TPO Parts is no longer around, is that where you got yours?
The only place I could find them is a site called bellissimoto.com, bit.ly/2IL1Fby However, it doesn't seem to allow the option of buying the washers separately like TPO did. I'm sure there's heaps of other sources for the washers if you know the measurements, I believe they were 0.5mm thick as well.
Where did you get the extra washers from? What size did you use?
This is an extremely late reply, but it might help others. I got the buttons from TPO Parts, but I think they've closed down now. I'd rather not publish a specific size, because every bike (including different year models of the same bike) may have different rotors. It's important to measure your own rotors.
where can I get the float button? is there in the marketplace?
Hello HTM I got a 2004 GSXR750 the bobbins were seized tight and was having shakes on braking. I tried the bobbin clamping rotating cleaning trick which worked for one short ride around town. Tried again with nothing good. I estimated that the bobbins, which are basically big heavy duty rivets, just needed loosening, expansion wider. So I made a custom wood support for the disc to lay perfectly flat on and used a punch and hammer, striking the rivet tip 3-4 times until I got each one loose. What ends up happening is the washer goes from being tight/flat to slightly dished, freeing the bobbin assembly from the rest. Now they are full floating and rattle like yours. What I wasnt sure of is safety and you seem to have had long term success with your floaters which gives me way more confidence. I will eventually replace the discs within a few weeks or months. Would love to get your thoughts on all this. Btw, I am a veteran mechanical engineer 25 years been turning wrenches for 45 and don't take unnecessary risks which is why I am so keen on your video, thanks for sharing your approach and especially the long term good results your having!
I suppose the main concern with your method ensuring the bobbins don't break off/come loose or seize. The bobbins I used were brand new with fresh washers. Note, I have since replaced my discs with Brembo Supersport discs as any metal to metal contact will wear and become "too loose". I think it's a good idea to consider the brake discs as a consumable item just like the brake pads. I think I did get over 20 000 kms on them though.
you forgot to show the play
hello friend I need your help and been looking for these rotors on ebay and not found anything at all you could leave me a link or something to buy them by ebay but eye has to be especially the ebay page please friend help me I will be very grateful!
It is heavily dependant on which model of bike you have, and whether you have stock or aftermarket rotors. I can show you the link for these specific buttons but I cannot be sure they will fit, please check the diameter and width of the buttons you require before buying. Unfortunately, I couldn't find them on eBay. bit.ly/2XpFaw4
Anyone try this on the R6 (06-16)? Tried to drill the oem buttons off for the life of me but they wont come out!
You may need to find a way to clamp the buttons while drilling, if they're spinning.
I will try that thank you!
I've watched this several times and I still can't wrap my around how these rivets actually keep the rotor together 🤨
The buttons on the opposite side of the rotor keep it from being able to move back away from from the other button. That's why the only movement in the rotor is side to side.
Did you get any top speed increase with this mod?
J
I hadn't considered top speed, but to be honest, if your brakes were limiting your top speed, there would be a much greater issue. This mod is more about increasing brake feeling and minimally reducing brake temps and wear.
Thanks a million... well made and explained....you're the best!
Thanks for the feedback! Stick around, a very special brakes video is coming soon.
th-cam.com/video/hOA5cOrvwRw/w-d-xo.html leave them alone
@@howtomotoyou did not dp the after resistance test...
Do you recall how much improvement was made?
Holy freakin loctite lol
Hi, you said these buttons are for ducatis however which ducatis. Need to know the specs so answer will help. My daytona 675 need new buttons since it has a lot of play in front to back motion. Or in general you said thickness of button shall be 4mm for daytona 675 rotors what about diameter of bobbins?
E clip size? TQ
What year was your bike was this on a s1000rr I have stock rotor looking to do this
It's a 2011 Triumph Daytona 675R
Thank you very much for the great video didn't u say your bike us a Ducati? (anyway i owe Ducati monster 695 and must fix mine disks asap)
the washer is for thermal expansion, nothing to do with noise.
The washer is definitely for thermal expansion, but the wave washer serves a dual purpose, allowing expansion and stopping the rattling sound.
There is a reason that main dealers don't sell buttons .And there is a reason that no Haynes manual ever recommends spinning the buttons to cure brake problems.And if you have EBC X series fully floating rotors the buttons have flat sides and can't be turned.And those fully floating rotors have zero play in any direction.In fact EBC explains that the buttons only job is to allow radial expansion of the disc.Nothing to do with alignment.
On a side note the KTM Buttons are smaller than the {maybe Ducati } buttons I ordered so sometimes to play with this stuff you may need a metal lathe . I need to shave ten thou off each button .
Exactly, you always need to check. It was just coincidence that the buttons I ordered were the same size for the Triumph stock rotors. I did do the research before ordering though.
Unfortunately the diameters are not listed where they are sold. But measuring the KTMs are smaller. You can hold them in those expanding mandrels to shave a bit off . But measure don't guess how much.
What name this change
Can convert from non floating to floating disc, when use this method???
No, A non floating disk doesn't have buttons. Typically it's a solid piece.
@@PRL1290 my cbr1000rr 2008 got button
@@kaisers30 Your disc might be "semi-floating" meaning it has the wavy washers like mine. If that's the case, yes you can convert them but you have to find the perfect buttons by matching the diameter and width.
Tq bro 👍
How To Moto i have a 2016 bmw s1000rr, they have semi floating rotors, do you know if the brembo full floating rotors will work with the stock rotors?
That's cool! Judging from the gold-colored Ohlins forks, is that an Aprilia RSVR?
I wish it was an RSVR, it's an '11 Daytona 675R
How To Moto no problem we can just trade!
where to buy the float button?

where to buy the float button?
can you just use the e-clip without either washer?
Please share a link where you bought these buttons🙏
I cant find it for my Kawasaki
It is heavily dependant on which model of bike you have, and whether you have stock or aftermarket rotors. I can show you the link for these specific buttons but I cannot be sure they will fit, please check the diameter and width of the buttons you require before buying. bit.ly/2XpFaw4
Go to oppracing.com
My local shop
Where to purchase the Buttons and washers with circlips? Need a trusted source that sells quality Material.
Don't dare to purchase off unknown source
There is a reason that the replacement buttons are not sold by reputable dealers.They are not recommended!
Hi
If the rotor moves back n fort does it mean the rotor is worn and cannot be fixed by replacing buttons?
Don't forget to grease the discs themselves so they glide through the caliper, reducing resistance. Now go out and ride really really fast and enjoy that reduced friction.
Appreciate the comment, but for safety I need to mention this^ is a joke, everyone please do not grease your discs haha
@@howtomoto shit,shoulda read what you said before applying the grease
@@howtomoto it’s a joke btw,I didn’t grease my brake discs
@@icewallowcome9929 I did ,and am writing this from the comfort of an NHS bed.........thank you, ow & im a self confessed retard. LOL
where can buy it?
The place I bought these from is now out of business (TPO Parts), however, if you search for "Brake buttons" for your respective bike, you should find an equivalent pretty easily.
@@howtomoto hey man, thank you for the video. Unfortunately google doesn't give me any good results for Daytona 675 brake buttons. If you know somewhere that sells it, please let me know!
22 NanoMeters haha
the buttons/bobbins link doesnt work !
It is heavily dependant on which model of bike you have, and whether you have stock or aftermarket rotors. I can show you the link for these specific buttons but I cannot be sure they will fit, please check the diameter and width of the buttons you require before buying. The original seller must have gone out of business, here is a new link I found bit.ly/2XpFaw4
@@howtomoto mine is a gsxr ,but the 168€for 20buttons seems too much
@@ib9459 HI, yes it is expensive, but these buttons are made out of very strong material. When modifying brakes, it's important to only use quality parts. I have ridden with these buttons for 25 000kms. and now the whole rotor needs to be replaced. I don't know how long cheaper buttons would last.
Where to buy the button
Could u show us the brake drag after install?
Yes, not sure why we didn't see the "after" spin...
Quick question...what's the thickness of your stock rotor? Thinking of doing those to my CBR 600rr track bike and they are 4.5mm thick.
+Xerith Stock rotor was 4 mm thick, so if you use the link provided and DO NOT order extra washers, it will work for a 4.5mm rotor (note: please make sure the diameter of the buttons are suitable for a cbr 600)
Yo no lo veo muy seguro...
When done correctly, it's actually safer due to the increased braking potential and prolonged brake fading.
Maybe I missed it, but what are the actual benefits of doing this? Is this only to reduce drag? I understand that it may reduce pad wear but only to now increase wear on the rotor rivets, so I'm not understanding the 'why' given the trade off. Thanks
I'd say the reduction in drag is minimal. The main reason I personally did this was to remove brake shuddered from a slightly bent rotor. However, another big advantage I got was brake feel improvements and the ability to modulate the brakes better. Brakes are "semi-floating" from factory to allow for the expansion and contraction of the braking disc versus the centre hub, but the factory has to compromise to remove noise and wear between the hub and disc, hence only making them semi-floating.
Thanks Bud 👍
My KTM brakes are riveted tight and I got full floaters for them .The service manager is telling m they will wear out much faster .I never heard of this .Any comments ?
Full floating brakes do wear out the buttons that hold the disc to the carrier. Anything that has movement, will eventually cause wear. Everything is a compromise, stock rotors may last longer (on the street) but full floaters feel better and may reduce fluid temps, it just depends on which trade of you're willing to accept.
I'm not worried about wear on the buttons. He states that everything will wear out fast ,pads rotors, calipers. I'm not believing him . I have set up full floaters on other bikes but I don't use them much to tell about wear.
It has absolutely zero effect on calipers, that claim makes no sense. If anything, pads and rotors will last longer because they're not rubbing on one side (in the case of sticky or stuck brake pistons)
Exactly --there would be less wear on the pads if anything. He is a young guy and not sure what he is talking about. I stopped listening to him.
@@howtomoto This is the reason why StopTech rotors only use the bobbins to hold the rotor on the carrier, they are NOT a stress member. The carrier and the steel rotor have notches to provide the braking, the buttons or bobbins are just aligning devices.
What brand torque wrench are you using.
A brand called Kincrome, there are definitely better brands out there, but I just bought the best I could afford.
Have you got an updated link to the buttons you used? The one posted isn't working. Would like to do this to a set for my track bike. Nice work, and great video. Anyone who knows anything about motorcycles knows that full floating is wonderful.
The link still seems to be working, here is the website address "tpoparts.com" search "Full-Floating Brake Rotor Buttons". Just remember that different bikes have different inner diameter and width buttons. Width can be solved by ordering extra washers, but diameter needs to be specific to your bike.
Ah, ok, I'm familiar with TPO. They are for a CBR1000, rotor width is 4.5mm, so I believe I need an extra flat washer for each one, I just haven't found them separately yet.
I found the shim washers... but they state an extra washer is needed for 4mm rotors... which the kit specifies they are for all brembo rotors, which are 5mm rotors. So I'm still a little lost on my specific application, and what is needed, but thank you for the point in the right direction.
From memory, the buttons on that site are for 4.5mm rotors, and I bought extra washers because mine are 4mm (my rotors are Sunstar branded not Brembo).
It would be nice if they listed dimensions like motowheels does:
motowheels.com/i-7579497-corse-dynamics-full-floating-rotor-button.html
Did it ever occur to you that engineers who are way smarter than you designed it that way for a reason?
Yes it did, and the reason is to stop unwanted noise on the street. Floating buttons are desirable , which is why the OEM made them semi-floating instead of completely fixed. (Also I am an engineering student)
How To Moto. Did you get any longer travel on your brake lever?
No I did not, if you did maybe bleeding the brake system is a good idea?
in major they have to design parts cheap, so there is always something to improve
If you buy Brembo's HPK Discs (the super sport race upgrade discs) they are fully floating as you have done, so I am with you on this as a worthwhile upgrade, the discs don't create any pad drag, they pretty much eliminate it purely at the expense of some rattle - I have both OE Brembo & HPK on my track wheels
LOL Nano meters, It's Newton meters! informative vide, thanks
Ducati has traction on the higher spec bikes the bobbins have raised no holes on right rotor for pick ups 🤔 yours are after market?
why do you wanted more axisl play? it doesnt help at all in break performance, just makes more noise
It doesn't make the braking more powerful. What a full floating rotor will do is give you much better feel and no vibration. The only drawback is the rattle over bumps during slow speeds.
The main objective of floating disks is heat disipation, ergo better performance
@@michelledeluisa6200 Also alignment of the rotor for equal brake pad pressure and elimination of pulsing and warping.
And thats how you have a braking failiure and die
Still going strong at 35,000 kms and multiple track days. All I know is I am braking smoother, more confidently and with more control than the stock set up.
@@howtomoto ok, you were right sry :)
Buttons should have a spring in between .
You have put these rattling rotors back on the bike?? You're not for real are you?
Yep. 100% for real. 20 000 kms later including 3 track days where I was braking from 250+ km/h, and they're still going strong.
@@howtomoto I put some silicone filler in the gaps to reduce the rattling. Any better ideas?