Update: Started it up today. Seems fine. No check engine lights, good oil pressure, etc. Just need to burp air out of the coolant system but otherwise seems like a win!
Hey Man, quick question for you. When you did this, did you replace the HPFP hard line that goes to the DI Injector rails, or did you re-use it? The manual says it must be replaced.
Great video thank you. Can't believe Ford wouldn't just use adaquit parts 7 years unbelievable that you have to fix there shit before it breaks. Again great job thank you
Yea I mean to be fair the Coyote is a hell of an engine that, with the exception of the cast OPG, is good for almost 1000whp stock. I agree its a bit of a bummer but overall I think they did a heck of a job.
I'm about to dive into my car to replace the noisey tensioners for the timing chains. I wanted to know about what you did with your HPFP fuel tube that runs along the top of the valve cover to the pump.
Its been a while since i did it but oil pickup tube? If somehow that wasnt seated or clogged that could do it. Im not really sure man. You didnt unplug any sensors did you?
Hi, great video (both this and the tips video). I saw you had a reference manual pulled up on your laptop, where did you source this? I am trying to get a copy - mainly for the HPFP steps.
Can’t wait to see how this turns out! Before you start running with boost, have you noticed any oil collected in the driver side catch can? I have both on mine also...little bit of oil in the passenger catch can...but my driver side has been bone dry. I know many have said the driver side is not needed (at least for N/A)...but I figured it was a bit of cheep preventative measure.
So ive checked the passenger side and it has maybe 2 TBSP. I need to check the other side to see as well. I am in full agreement that its cheap insurance and a must if boosted
You sure the oil pan needed to be pulled? I’ve done install on gen 1/2 , and never had to pull oil pan. What is different about gen 3 that makes you have to remove oil pan?
You show OEM 25264 as the part number for the balancer puller. The ad description for the part says it will NOT work for a Coyote 5.0. Can you verify it does?
They may have changed something either with ford or the tool itself because I just tried it on my 19 and the tool itself is too big. It's close. Maybe a quarter of an inch too large. Going to grind down the sides of the arms a little and it should slip right in.
damn such a great vid except you didn't show how to put the timing chains back on. that would've made it perfecto. pretty sure you just place LH side back on as it was because nothing has moved and then rotate around past 12 and then back around to 12 again then put RH side back on? hope this is right because it's what i'm about to do 😂😂
Check out the video I put out after this. Some more detail about halfway in that I think you will find useful. th-cam.com/video/p40mwILsmYg/w-d-xo.html
Close. The big difference being the 2018+ has a cam driven direct fuel injection unit which needs to be removed in order to pull the pass valve cover. This is more involved. Also I believe 2018+ requires you dropping the oil pan for the pickup tube
@@Ocohc686 yes in terms of barring the engine over to line up the cam sprockets/crank sprocket/timing chain it should be the same procedure. Getting to that point is a bit different
@@davidstevens8300 that is a tough one. I had to Google the Super Stock to learn more. Id say if your goal is factory ease with tons of power maybe go Super Stock. If you want the fastest car Id start by doing some quick power to weight math. The Dodge makes 807 hp, assume 15% loss through drivetrain (likely more), and you are looking at 685whp in a vehicle which weighs almost 4500lbs. The Mach 1 is going to make similar whp on a whipple (quite possibly more) and weighs 600lb less. For me I drove a Hellcat Challenger 6spd and it was a blast. However I think Id go with the Coyote platform if I was adding boost.
Its one of those jobs where nothing is particularly hard but its extremely time consuming and tedious. My good friend skipped this step and recently had his TT Coyote eat a stock OPG which ruined his motor. Id say its a pain but better than the alternative if you plan to push it. If i was leaving it stock-ish i definitely would not go through the trouble.
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
You are a good man I’ll be doing this and your bullet points about all the little details that I wouldn’t have known are super thank you
i would not have done this on my car without this video. Thanks man very helpful
Glad i could help!
Great work, your videos are amazing. Waiting for the fire up and Dyno test. Keep it up.
Update: Started it up today. Seems fine. No check engine lights, good oil pressure, etc. Just need to burp air out of the coolant system but otherwise seems like a win!
Hey Man, quick question for you. When you did this, did you replace the HPFP hard line that goes to the DI Injector rails, or did you re-use it? The manual says it must be replaced.
@@dy8863 reused that bad boy ;)
@@truckandroll989 Awesome thanks!
@@truckandroll989 Excellent thank you Sir
Great video thank you. Can't believe Ford wouldn't just use adaquit parts 7 years unbelievable that you have to fix there shit before it breaks. Again great job thank you
Yea I mean to be fair the Coyote is a hell of an engine that, with the exception of the cast OPG, is good for almost 1000whp stock. I agree its a bit of a bummer but overall I think they did a heck of a job.
I'm about to dive into my car to replace the noisey tensioners for the timing chains. I wanted to know about what you did with your HPFP fuel tube that runs along the top of the valve cover to the pump.
I reused it. I havent had any issues since. Thanks for watching and hoping this helps you
@truckandroll989 thank you so much for replying! I will be removing the valve covers and draining the coolant tomorrow.
Great video. What brand lift do you have?
It is made by Tuxedo. The model # is FP8K-DX-XLT
Hey I installed some boundary opg and cs this past weekend and did every step carefully and went to fire it up and had no oil pressure. Any idea?
Its been a while since i did it but oil pickup tube? If somehow that wasnt seated or clogged that could do it. Im not really sure man. You didnt unplug any sensors did you?
Hi, great video (both this and the tips video). I saw you had a reference manual pulled up on your laptop, where did you source this? I am trying to get a copy - mainly for the HPFP steps.
I was able to sweet talk the dealership into giving me a copy. Message me on IG Ill help you out.
@TruckandRoll I also messaged you for the manual!
Can’t wait to see how this turns out! Before you start running with boost, have you noticed any oil collected in the driver side catch can? I have both on mine also...little bit of oil in the passenger catch can...but my driver side has been bone dry. I know many have said the driver side is not needed (at least for N/A)...but I figured it was a bit of cheep preventative measure.
So ive checked the passenger side and it has maybe 2 TBSP. I need to check the other side to see as well. I am in full agreement that its cheap insurance and a must if boosted
NA gen 1 coyote over here, my passenger side collects but my driver side does not.
Just checked and mine is bone dry too after 4k miles NA
You sure the oil pan needed to be pulled? I’ve done install on gen 1/2 , and never had to pull oil pan. What is different about gen 3 that makes you have to remove oil pan?
The oil pick up tube is attached to the pan on Gen 3
Bingo. Gen 3 is a bit more difficult. Pans gotta be dropped and it is kind of a pain.
On my 2021 mustang GT the only oil filter I found to fit are the K&N, ford fl500s filter screw on properly mobile 1 or the wix filters don’t fit
I thought the mach 1 had a billet crankshaft timing sprocket installed from the factory already.
No I dont think any of them do. All cast from the factory.
You show OEM 25264 as the part number for the balancer puller. The ad description for the part says it will NOT work for a Coyote 5.0. Can you verify it does?
Yea it worked fine for me
They may have changed something either with ford or the tool itself because I just tried it on my 19 and the tool itself is too big. It's close. Maybe a quarter of an inch too large. Going to grind down the sides of the arms a little and it should slip right in.
can you upload the step by step guide?
I dont have a good way of uploading it. Shoot me a DM on IG
damn such a great vid except you didn't show how to put the timing chains back on. that would've made it perfecto. pretty sure you just place LH side back on as it was because nothing has moved and then rotate around past 12 and then back around to 12 again then put RH side back on? hope this is right because it's what i'm about to do 😂😂
Check out the video I put out after this. Some more detail about halfway in that I think you will find useful. th-cam.com/video/p40mwILsmYg/w-d-xo.html
Same process as the 2015 to 2017 ?
Close. The big difference being the 2018+ has a cam driven direct fuel injection unit which needs to be removed in order to pull the pass valve cover. This is more involved. Also I believe 2018+ requires you dropping the oil pan for the pickup tube
@@truckandroll989 In other words timing the engine it’s basically the same
@@Ocohc686 yes in terms of barring the engine over to line up the cam sprockets/crank sprocket/timing chain it should be the same procedure. Getting to that point is a bit different
@@truckandroll989 thanks bud
Awesome car, I have a fighter jet grey 10r80
Beautiful color. I met one just like yours at the track. We raced and he kicked my butt. The auto is no joke
I have a odd question lol, but from car guy to car guy. I have a super stock challenger on order, should I trade for that, or whipple the Mach 1 ?
@@davidstevens8300 that is a tough one. I had to Google the Super Stock to learn more. Id say if your goal is factory ease with tons of power maybe go Super Stock. If you want the fastest car Id start by doing some quick power to weight math. The Dodge makes 807 hp, assume 15% loss through drivetrain (likely more), and you are looking at 685whp in a vehicle which weighs almost 4500lbs. The Mach 1 is going to make similar whp on a whipple (quite possibly more) and weighs 600lb less. For me I drove a Hellcat Challenger 6spd and it was a blast. However I think Id go with the Coyote platform if I was adding boost.
1st world problems huh lol.
Yeah this is awesome but very depressing at the same time. Just going to stay under 700 rwhp and forget this. Way too involved
Man that just looks like a stone cold bitch of a process for such a small thing. Not hard just a ton of work just to get there.
Its one of those jobs where nothing is particularly hard but its extremely time consuming and tedious. My good friend skipped this step and recently had his TT Coyote eat a stock OPG which ruined his motor. Id say its a pain but better than the alternative if you plan to push it. If i was leaving it stock-ish i definitely would not go through the trouble.