TOP Problem Areas on 03-07 Ford 6.0 | Secret Tips For Buying a Used Powerstroke 6.0L
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- 💪 WATCH THIS before buying A Used 6.0 FORD POWERSTROKE!!! Wade goes over what he looks for when buying a used 6.0 Powerstroke for the 03-07 Ford truck years. Hope you guys enjoy and LIKES are always appreciated! Buying a used diesel truck is tough but with these tips, you will get a reliable used truck for a good price! BUYER BEWARE, mileage is not the only important factor you should consider when buying a used Powerstroke 6.0L.
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Chapters
0:00 6.0 Powerstroke Buyers Guide
1:00 Exterior
2:41 Interior
4:15 Drivetrain
6:50 Leave Comments
7:23 Engine 6.0
#powerstroke #ford #fordpowerstroke #thoroughbreddiesel #dieselpower #diesellife #dieselporn #truckporn - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Biggest problem with the 6.0 is the previous owner.
6.0s are great trucks.
My 2007 has 550k miles on it. Oil changes every 4k fuel filters every 8k coolant flushes every 30k. Truck has never had any issues beside one water pump at 150k and one glow plug went bad at 350k
I do t think I would buy a used one tho unless it was highly documented or a one owner with super low mileage. To many Guys doing 10-15k oil changes and 45-50k on fuel filters and not keeping the coolant proper or running hot tunes in them no thanks
"slush box full of neutral" love that expression...
05 Excursion 6.0 not studded pretty much stock had since new awesome truck. 252,000 miles at 100,000 oil cooler went out. Had 1 injector replaced. Lots of glow plugs. Still have egr use to have to clean pretty often. Removed butterfly in air intake seems to run cleaner doesn't plug egr valve and run hot shot additive Yes get an Edge reader to monitor engine. Live in Wisconsin never heard the cooling fan run, come to find the cooling fan chord was cut by cooling fan. So glad we had the reader because we had a road trip out west in July, that could have been bad. Have rust in rockers but not bad. I'm no mechanic but TH-cam and the helpful 6.0 community has saved me thousands.
Add a fuel pressure gauge so if the pressure drops below 45 psi you want to shut it down. They will run with less than 45 psi but it will destroy the injectors. I watch the EGT and water and oil temps all the time. I change the oil every 4000 miles. But the best thing for engines is too work them. They are not meant for hauling groceries. It you work them and keep the veins in the turbo moving. You will have a lot less trouble in the long run.
Some additional suggestions when purchasing: Check for matching batteries, if one battery failed then both need to be changed. Use high quality and high CCA battries - the electrical system on these engines are key to long life. The AC pumps on these older trucks fail and plug the condenser, orifice, and sometimes the evaporator - check it. Check your oil for coolant - it is another sign of head gasket problems. Check for Crankcase pressure (blowback) - indication of bad rings and cracked pistons. Listen to the cadence when turning key on - indication of bad injectors. There are often vacuum issues with these older trucks (older plastic lines crack and leak) - check that the cabin air actuator works (if stuck on defrost you likely have a vacuum leak). Listen to the vacuum pump when you first key on - it should run but not for a long time. High mileage - check the drive train (drive shaft and axial universals). Last suggestion - rent a high quality diagnostic computer and check the codes and performance on the ICP, ICR, EGP, EOT, ECT, VGT, IAT(1&2), and injection balance (if the computer can do it). I love this engine, but it has a lot of small things that can lead to big problems. If you want a long life engine, you have to monitor what is going on with live values, so get a monitor.
Do you have any monitors you recommend?
Ummm i just recharge them after 24 hour they both fine.
“Or pick up guys” 😂😂😂😂
I feel like that went over a lot of people’s heads
woman buy trucks too right
I mean, it’s a Ford
Guys to go do the work
@@Mycorvette6968 _Better that ur Chevy so._
Absolutely love my 6.0. Building it day by day
I’ve had my 6.0 all fixed & I LOVE IT 👍🏻👍🏻
Your old Android phone (you already paid for it, might as well get more use out of it), 4.95 for Torque Pro, an inexpensive ELM327 BT obd2 adapter and 20 mins watching DieselTechRon's (RIP) Torque Pro set up video and you will be able to monitor 95% of what you need to keep your truck reliable and catch problems early (like your EOT/ECT deltas). An EGT gauge if you do a lot of towing is about the only other thing you might want.
I just wanted to say I purchased an AirDog 4G 165GPH lift pump from you guys. Great service and quick delivery! You guys rock! 😎👍
Awesome video, lots of great info I needed. Much appreciated.
The buyers reviews of Ford vs Dodge: Ford-interior, don’t worry, body, don’t worry, trans don’t worry, engine, worry
Dodge-interior, if it has an interior at all you are lucky, exterior, door skins ripping, rust everywhere, dually skirts cracking, grills junk, mirrors junk, trans, NV or forget about it, engine, don’t worry about it 😂
Really like these vids. Keep em coming!
I have a f-450 4x4 dump truck with a 6.0 and it is awesome. It recently had a fuel light come on and was watching how you replaced it and it was very informative and I will replace this as soon as I receive my parts. It has 233000 miles and has automatic transmission and four wheel drive. It hauls 5.3 tons like it is nothing . Thanks for your info and help on fuel filters information.
Great video thanks for all the great info!
If your headgasket goes bad, O-Ring the heads, put Ford OEM headgaskets, and ARP headstuds on it. Also, put new lifters, 6.4 pushrods, rocker box gaskets, rear main seal, injector cups, new oil pan gasket, and instead of deleting the egr cooler, weld some soft plugs in the two ends of it to block flow, while still being in factory location, and supporting your down pipe...also replace the oil cooler with a new OEM unit on it while its all apart. And you will have a good motor for a long time..... want to take it a step further? Go with an oem oil cooler delete kit from bulletproof diesel or other sources to get rid of the possibility of clogged oil coolers, and have the larger oil to air cooler instead.
2 years most after that
@@chartedtravel must have had bad luck with the 6.0 motors? Personally my 2 6.0s I’ve had were/are some of the best running engines I’ve ever had. And I own a couple 7.3s and have had 2 of the ford 6.7s.
I've got a 06 f350. Changed the oil and filters on time... I drive it like a truck. NOT A RACE CAR..... Has ran great. No problems. 130000 miles. Thanks
That's the key thing with the 6.0s. Drive them like a truck and keep up maintenance. Too many people tune them up the ass and wonder why they have so many problems.
500,000 miles on my 07’ 6.0. Engine never rebuilt. Doors still open and close nicely. Honestly it still rides like a new truck. These 99-07 trucks were the toughest trucks ever made. Regular maintenance and never raced or beat on; just used for work. Just get rid of the EGR bullshit and don’t slap a tuner on it.
Good to hear. Mine has 251,000 miles
Couldnt agree more. My 7.3 Excursion is still bone stock and will tow whatever you put behind it as long as you dont need to get there fast. But, my 05 F250 is 10 steps above. Both have right at or over 300,000 miles on them. Rotella changed every 5,000. Fuel filters every 10,000. The most major thing i have had to do to either are a, transmission in my Excursion and, glow plugs in my 6.0. For everyday driving. 6.0 is the best i have owned.
Patrickw Perry yeah I’m still daily driving my 6.0. I put on about only 500 miles a week now. I do 7,500 mile oil changes with the Amsoil HD Diesel & Marine 15W-40. I’ve had the oil analyzed at 500,000 miles and I was told the oil could be stretched further and the engine had a lot of life left in it (below average for wear metals). I did the glow plugs and harness about two years ago. I also had the FICM rebuilt and upgraded the alternator to a 230 amp unit with heavier gauge cables to the batteries. Ford really undersized the alternator on these trucks. The glow plugs really draw a lot of amps at start up. It’s a totally new truck in the winter months with the new set up I have. Starts and idles a lot better in freezing temps. My next truck will probably be a 7.3 gas. I think the gas trucks are now more reliable then the 2008+ diesel trucks. It’s totally reversed.
You and Powerstroke Help are right ! They also o-ring the heads.
I just sold my 14 tundra and bought an 05 super duty I just love it. Straight axles that holds the alignment with a 4in lift lockouts reliable 4x4.
Thanks for the great input. These Trucks are great only if you do most the work yourself. Other wise they are to expensive to own.
Yes it can be very expensive but I work on my own stuff so I save a bunch there. Easy $100 just to change the oil, but I use full synthetic and change it once a year.
298k and the factory oil cooler finally went. Absolutely love 6.0s
Must be 1 in a thousand 🤣
You want to buy another one? I have a "lovely " 2005 F250 crew cab I would like to get rid of.
@@bradleynelson5915 how many miles on it?
Fixed my 6.0 dropped 0.1L to 5.9 2002 24v Cummins no more head gasket issues no more hot no starts no more high pressure oil leaks no more stuck vgt it always starts and always runs the transmission doesn't go out and has one hell of a power band. Now it's the best of both worlds they Cummins in a Ford.
With the 6.0 iron block and heads, what caused the head gasket problems? Head bolt stretching?
@@sonnydayz2118 not enough head bolts per cylinder and improper flatness from the factory. ARP studs, o-ringed heads, Motorcraft gaskets and torque to 225 and go. The machine shop and stud torque are key.
@@sonnydayz2118 overheating and warping either from cracked EGR cooler or clogged oil cooler.
@@zackzittel7683 I see that Ford's head bolts had an issue with stretching from high pressure & expansion & contraction, but fixed it with a head stud upgrade. I also learned about the crappy plastic valve in the oil cooler that breaks and causes lubrication issues and etc. There's an aftermarket one with a spin on oil filter that solves that problem too.
It always has been amazing to me how everyone talks about how sweet Allison transmission is but no one ever talked about the Ford transmission never seems to have any problems vary interesting. Yup 6.0 has it’s problems no doubt about it. But they really are fixable and becomes a good engine. 6.4 sell that crap ASAP. Still is one of the top Contenders for buying a used truck on the market as long as you do your homework.
This is a awesome video and a good chanell im thinking of buying a 6.0 in the future. Thank you.
You're welcome! Give us a call if you have a question 859-737-4966.
I have 2. 2004 6.0 powerstrokes I've got over 265,000 miles on my extended cab, stock engine and oem studs. Only upgrades is coolant filter and exhaust and egr delete, no chip, no issues with anything, oem transmission I've had that truck since around 65,000. I keep up on the maintenance and I'm not easy on my trucks towing trailers, or hauling wood, my other 04 crewcab has over 312,000 miles on it and it keeps on ticking stock head studs. Only egrdelete and exhaust, if you keep up on normal maintenance and keep the chip or programmers off stock engines they will last a long time.
This video it really helped me a lot really save my life really save my pocket🤝🤝👍👍
Hey wanted to add sometimes if its over filled with coolant itll leak. Dealer told me 7-8 gallons of coolant. I tried that with a coolant chnage it puked. Got it down 4 gallons i believe and no more leaking or puking. Daily drove it engine temps never went above 200 either. So hope this helps someone. Had numerous shops an dealers say heads were toast and thats all it was. Had a 04 bulletproofed 6.0.
2007- 300k love the truck TKG every time! Zero issues and extremely reliable.
I've seen so many Sick.oh blown up its unreal , you must have the only one lol
Maintenance. Have an 06 just bought with 92000. Runs perfect. Just take care of her 👌
303k miles on my 5r110 had to change the harness on it @300k but was actually cheap and easy to replace. Shift perfectly now
I was Ford certified on the 6 leiptr in the years that I worked on I'm the biggest problem that motor had was the customer driving it follow your Ford maintenance plan at scheduled intervals do everything it tells you to do the six leader left the factory turned up as high in pork and horsepower as was possible for the expected life of the motor punching the power level up larger turbos bigger injectors all bad news for reliability do not extend the oil change intervals I don't care what oil you put in it can't tell you how many times I've seen Apple cord filters because of customers extending it because the oil manufacturer says you can keep a clean filter in it same with fuel filters keep clean filters in it don't extend the filter life cheap coolant is another no no put good coolant in it every 30000 miles do not allow the truck to Extended idle to warm up do not allow the truck to idle while you go in and have lunch these are two of the biggest cause of your intake manifold coking which is the major cause of EGR valves sticking and not operating properly I owned one of these trucks and drove it for more than 12 years and had no problems with anything including head gaskets frequently told an RV with it with no problems water pump issue was a vendor issue the impeller was loosening up on the shaft and coming loose causing the truck to overheat I was told by Ford that was fixed a number of years ago if it ain't broke don't fix it if it is broke I highly recommend Ford factory parts leave the high boost in the rolling coal to the fools
Periods and commas would have went a long way in this comment. But, I was able to get what you were saying.
What would recommend for warm up?
I have been letting mine warm up 5 to 10 minutes. Is this doing more harm than good?
@@dennishough3709 if you want warm air out of the heater first thing in the cold mornings I suggest using the block heater also use your block heater if it's going to get very cold as far as warm up on a diesel engine that doesn't happen you have a very large capacity radiator with cold water in it soon as the thermostat opens all that cold water hits the thermostat and it closes under the right conditions that can go on all day long idling best thing is to put the motor to work on a cold start wait for the engine idle to stabilize check your instruments make sure everything's okay and start driving I would recommend waiting till the engines up to operating temperature to work it hard
@@montejones5788 Thanks for the info.
Most helpful.
Wow 👌 👏
Outstanding work. I recently had one done by power stroke help in Burford Georgia. Bill Hewitt.. 2006 Amarillo..
Thanks! #powerstrokestrong
Price ?
My 2000 7.3 f250 had 350000 km when I sold it, bullet proof reliability apart from endlessly replacing seized brake calipers front and back. To be fair it likely wouldn't have been an issue if I was driving it everyday. It also developed a hard starting issue which was corrected with new batteries. Very informative video as I'm on the hunt for another 7.3.
This is a 6.0 video
@@teds4063 right 6.0s are Garbage that's this point
@@ALT_RIGHT them and the 6.4 are basically throw away engines
I've owned a 2006 F350 6.0 since Nov. 2015. It had 68K miles when I bought it. Today it has 165K miles. I tow a 14K-lbs RV approx. four times a year; on average 3K miles/ yr. Truck is almost all stock in appearance. It's not the most reliable truck to own if your livelihood depends on it and is your sole daily driver. Yes, you can save lots of money doing your own repairs and upgrades; otherwise, in general, be prepared to fork over lots of money. Excluding fuel, I keep a detailed spreadsheet on what I spend on my truck. I keep my repair costs separate from my preventive maintenance costs. I perform my own oil and fuel filter changes. I've spent $25K over 6-years in repairs averaging out to $4,200/yr. Not all repair costs are engine alone. Front-end hardware, brakes, shocks, new cab-body mounts, etc. are additional expenses that come to mind. Wade is correct in his assessment of the 03-07 Ford Powerstrokes." Love my 6.0 though; it has its' own cult following. Mine looks good, sounds good and rides good. I get lots of nice compliments on it! And Mr. Wesley has a beautiful truck indeed!
6.0 can be a great engine, and once done becomes reliable.
ARP studs.
Fel Pro MLS head gaskets.
Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler and billet water pump.
Switch away from the GO5/Ford Gold coolant. Delo ELC or Shell Ultra ELC.
Blue spring Ford kit to keep fuel pressure up and constant.
FICM check/rebuild and Atlas flash puts power back that Ford began sucking out when things started to go sideways 20 years ago.
Bypass filtration is so easy, and a big benefit to the reliability. Many kits out there, buy one, DIY one, but DO IT.
10w30 oil keeps the injectors happy, and doesn't shear over a reasonable change interval.
Listen to Wade when he preaches... Thoroughbred knows their stuff.
With the 6.0’s if you delete the egr cooler, or upgrade it, then stay up on your maintenance and don’t drive like it’s a race car you’ll be fine.
I know plenty of dudes with stock bolts with over 500k miles.
Given the costs and problems of new diesel trucks, the 6.0 Powerstroke can be worth the investment
I've got an 06 and it runs great. If yer having some engine light problems try replacing the batteries. I had this problem but went away after putting both batteries in. 13 mpg in and around 19 highway.
13 in town, then 19 on highway.
That is a beautiful engine compartment
Indeed
Took listing off about half the cooling system, entire EGR system, and engine teardown/rebuild to finally get to that word - reliable 😅
READ my "Post" it will tell you more !!
I had a 2006 F350 SRW Lariat with almost 270,000 miles when I sold it in 2018. The only thing I had a problem with was the Turbo at 240,000ish miles. EGR was deleted and the head's where never off. Kept clean Rotella in it every 5,000 and fuel filters every 10,000.
Mine is also a 2006 . It’s at 181,000 miles with no issues other than 2 old bad batteries I neglected to change which toasted my stock FICM. It’s tuned and deleted with stock head studs. No issues even when it’s a Daily driver with a 6” lift on 35’s driven like a sports car . It rarely has towed anything
Thats why yours lasted with very little repair. You changed the oil like your underwear. Do that and of course delete the emissions and they last. The emissions shorten the life of any diesel engine
04 with 277 on it, only had to do 2 injectors. Will be studding it soon.
Did you tune it or keep it stock?
@@FishFind3000 Stock
A beautiful and well loved truck as is my '01 Dodge. Would you consider another video showing a more common truck meaning one that has not been so well cared for? I'm not stirring the pot but am curious; does head stud installation require cab removal? Underhood seems more crowded and less shade tree friendly on the Ford. Dodge interior definitely more plastic-y and my dash IS cracked, I have nerf bar-style steps so I don't drag my butt over the seat, seats are pristine. A good video and very informative; it looks as if you can get a good price on a 6.0 Ford and want to spend the bucks you will have a great truck. Yes, my truck has a vp44 injector pump and I have installed an improved fuel lift pump and no, it doesn't have a "53" block. Bought in So. Cal and raised in southern Nevada, no body issues. Dana 60 in front and Dana 80 out back, NV 5600 tranny so that's pretty well covered. NOT bashing Ford at all.
"NO" it does not require cab removal, "BUT" it is a LOT easier, which is why most mechanics do it.
going to go look at a 6.0 2006 with 275,000 miles. Can you see the if head studs have been put on the truck with out removal of the valve covers? Nevermind---Edit 19:03 you answered that... Thank you!!!
Thank you so much.
Great Video!!
I had the O-ringed big dog cylinder heads put on 4 years ago and never had a head gasket issue since then. ARP head studs and Ford gaskets.
Out of curiosity, how much are those heads?
this would be a geat video as in extremely well done if i knew the type of fuel it was.
Another thing to check if you have hot air coming out of heater after engine is at operating temperature. If no heat is coming out then that’s another sign head gaskets are blown.
I heard a story of a guy looking at a 6.0. He bought it. Had a cracked head. But also the previous owner put silicone in the degas bottle hose so the coolant couldn’t backflow
My 6.0 is a rust box. Rear fenders rusted out. Back quarter panels rusted out. But all the important stuff was fixed. My truck might look like crap. But its the most reliable motive of operation Ive owned. But want to remove the egr valve and tune it.
If you remove the EGR valve, you may get erratic cooling fan operation. That's really a thing with later model 6.0 trucks. In all honesty, so many advancements have been made in EGR cooler design and tuning; making deleting trucks a thing of the past. A good quality replacement EGR cooler will give you years of trouble free operation.
I've had 3 6.0's... 2 550's and a 350....total nightmare lol. Unless I had one bullet proofed and everything stock changed out I would never own another one. I bought a 2015 f250 went the 6.2 gas engine and I've never had a problem. I saved a ton of money with that one.
Have one for 18 years, almost 0 problems for 340 KM ( 210 thousand miles) until recently started over heating under load. Not much good news in my future by sounds of it lol. Thanks for the video. Iv never had to add oil between changes, 22 mpg with no load. 12 or 13 with 9000 lb camper. (Canadian gallons )
You're welcome!
I’ve had 2 6.0 power strokes and once there deleted and studded and maintained well it will last a long time
Egr deleted?
@@sticky40sx71 I’m sure that’s what he’s talking about
Btw- great video .. keep it up! Like to see more 6.0 videos. Thx.
Change your oil religiously, use archoil additive in oil, and stanadine fuel additive in fuel everytime you fill up!
You want a reliable 6.0 powerstroke? Buy it from an older man or a working man that used the 6.0 for work amd not for racing. I have seen plenty of 6:0 powerstrokes with well over 400k miles with minor upgrades on stock head bolts. Change your oil every 3500 miles man. Seriously these engines shear oil fast. Proper maintenance folks. I have a 2003 6:0 powerstroke with subtle uogrades no head studs just bolts. 260k miles with factory turbo head gaskets bolts etc.
I’m going to look at an 04 this week. 203k. Only had 2 owners. Not lifted on stock wheels. They are only asking 11k. Lariat FX4 package
Great engine and tougher than they get credit for. I have a feeling more of them are pushing high coolant pressure than people even realize. In the northern states we loose our heater long before it starts overheating or pushing coolant out the degas cap. I’d be willing to bet lots of them in the southern states run that way years.
It's funny you mention that, my truck was pushing coolant pressure and I would have NEVER known had I not started monitoring coolant pressure from the degas bottle. My truck is studded even. The truck ran perfectly fine, didn't white smoke any at all, and the only thing that gave it away was that I was using coolant. I had to keep it topped off with about 20 oz or so every couple months. Replaced both heads and everything is fine now.
I bought an 04 6.0 brand new years back. Every time I stepped on the brakes the power steering went out, the truck was impossible to drive in a parking lot you had to choose between steering or brakes you couldn't have both. Had it back to the dealer at least 6 times for this issue and it never did get fixed. The dealer did rebuild the transmission 4 times though while it was in the shop. Not sure what that was about wasn't having problems with the transmission. As soon as the warranty ran out on it I traded it for a Cummins and have been happy ever since.
Weird, never heard any of these problems, between my dad and I we’ve owned 4 6.0s over the past 10 years and none of them had any major problems at all, only had to replace the turbo on the last one we had but that was a 470k mile truck
Great video! I just finished making a 6.0 "reliable" with a local professional. My question: do you have a video or can you make one that highlights all the items you watch on a monitor? I have heard items like EGT, coolant pressure, temp, etc. What are the normal readings and what would be an example of a reading that would be outside a normal range that would indicate a problem?
Who ever did your "reliable" "UPGRADE" should be able to tell you the pressures. Or call BPD and they will tell you.
My 2005 f350 with 113k miles turned off on me on the highway. I found it was a bad IPR valve. I can’t be too mad because the truck is almost 20 years old. In my experience.. an IPR should be changed as preventative maintenance so it doesn’t leave you stranded!
I love the sound of 6.0’s, I feel like they are the most wicked sounding V8 diesel of all time. One came through my work the other day with 91000 miles! It had a bulletproof diesel badge, I didn’t look the whole thing over but I did see a stamp on the EGR from the company. I wanted it so bad lol but I have an LBZ Duramax with thousands into it, I had to really talk to myself! One day though I will try to swoop up a 6.0 but not at the exchange of my duramax. 🫣
On coolant temperature what should be normal operating temperature? An loaded pulling gooseneck?
Hey guys
I’m about to buy a f250 6.0 powerstrokes
With 222k. Motor was pulled at 190k for head studs, egr delete, turbo, updated oem oil cooler, 8 155/30 WDI and every single gasket was replaced on the motor. Trans got heavy duty solenoids to handle the increase in power.
Any recomendation about it
It looks clean interior an exterior there is no leaks and no rust
Looks clean just like the one on the video
Bought my first deisel a little over a year ago. Of course it is a 6.0, King Ranch. Paid 10,000 for an 04 with 140,000 miles. It is as clean as the truck in this video. Perfect condition.
Anyway bought a scan gauge 3. I was able to see the I had a 35 degree delta. I actually bought a flush kit and it worked great. Deltas are below 15 after the flush. Just last week with the scan gauge I was able to see my ficm power was dropping to 39 on a cold start. And my battery voltage seemed low. Bad alternator. And I was able to change out the ficm before it did any harm to the injectors. So it definitely a good idea to get some kinda of monitor device.
Other than that. I absolutely love this truck. LOVE IT lol.
Thanks for sharing!
A decent monitor (Scangauge is a great choice, BTW) is the FIRST thing you want to buy after buying a 6.0 or any truck for that matter. Being able to see live data will help you to diagnose things on your own and address problems before they leave you sitting. Edge CTS3's are also great, and Thoroughbred Diesel keeps them in stock!
I’m sorry but You look like Mike pence 😂 your very knowledgeable and informative thank you
You're welcome!
I've got a 07 F250 6.0 with 78546 original miles on it. I'm taking it to BPD in Meza, Az for a level 3 pkg.
I've upgraded to the Mishimoto radiator, their intercooler, and lower and upper coolant hoses. Just like you
said, making reliable for years to come. BTW, the mileage is as stated above. I really don't use it that much so why spend 70 grand or higher on a new truck when I can spend under 20 grand to make it reliable.
I've got the super cab model.
You know, they do have Mechanics that work with them all over the US , there might be a local mechanic that will be able to do it for you. I did it myself, and I am in PHX, just thought they were over priced. Ran me about 4 K total. God Bless !!!
@@curlyelp7530 I’m also in phoenix. If you don’t mind what shop did you go to to have them bulletproof it?
20 grand?? Ouch!
Proper length pushrods after sending out the heads
from all my truck diesel history,,,i seem to think the stock head bolts...are torqued to the rocker box...and then the box holds the head down...like a meat loaf sand witch..i have a 06 250 4x4...every time i use it...i jet the jitters...thank you for this video
I’m thinking about getting The oil bypass kit for my 06 6.0
06 6.0 van wow crazy power
Just bought one in February of '22. Have heard all the horror stories and jokes, made a few myself before purchasing one. I absolutely love it. It is completely stock except a egr delete and 4in straight pipe from the turbo. I have big plans for it which include bullet proofing it. I'm on a budget being 17 so I do all the work myself with what I have, except the big things. Bought it with a bad injector. Number 7 was dead and 8 was getting bad. Replaced only number 7. Yes, I know it's not proper but I don't have thousands to spend on a mechanic. The reason I only did what I did was because, my mechanic said that it is common to see them throwing codes with a bad injector. Also needed a fan clutch, haven't replaced it because, I have used a code reader and it has no codes? Anyway, I will probably go a different route and do dual fans on the radiator instead. Eventually when I do head studs, gaskets and any other parts I have when the cab is off injectors are on the list. I'm wanting to go with bigger injectors like stage 1. As well as a banks tuner. Don't need or really even want to make big power, just want to make a little more than stock but also not have to worry if I need more depending on the application. I use it as a daily but we have rodeo stock, so when pulling a stock trailer loaded all 15 of the bulls weighing around 1000-1500lbs average, I want to safely be able to make more power without tearing things up from be to hard on it.
Do all of the upgrades...
Standpipe
Dummy plugs
Egr delete
Upgraded oil cooler. Suggest adding an coolant bypass filter.
Suggest adding an oil bypass filter. Not needed but doesnt hurt.
IPR screen
HPOP STC fitting.
ARP head studs. Mostly for tuned motors.
I run Shell T5 with Archoil every oil change. Do not extend oil changes. I keep mine at 5K miles. Only use OEM filters too.
USE OEM PARTS!! These trucks are very picky about the parts you use. Dont use the crap from autozone, etc... They might get ya down the road but I guarantee you will have issues within 6mo-1years.
Get an IPR Air test tool. Hopefully, you never have to use it.
If you do alot of towing, the cooling system will need to upgraded.
Last but not least..get an Bluetooth OBDII adapter with some kind of scan tool. I use torque pro. It doesnt tell me everything but gives me an good idea of what is going on.
What cooling system upgrades do you suggest?
Add a coolant filter and flush, flush coolant yearly
My 6.0 broke down every 5000 with the standard horror stories. Finally I put in the Bulletproof Diesel system and has now gone 50000 miles with zero issues..
I have a 06 i have had all of the fuel and comp system replaced except.for the igr cooler now weather engine cold or hot it rolls and spits coolant oit at radiator wich i have also changedno water in oil no oil in water no miss loss of power
And stinks loss a lot of water from exhaust what do youll think heads or iga cooler jeff
Aside from the obvious legalities what are your thoughts on EGR Delete on the 06 6.0 as far as pros and cons to the life of the engine. Bear in mind it's not one that is used for towing as much as it is for hauling scrap metals and isn't beat on but was bought in relatively rough shape and fixed up recently
@Joshua Wesley definitely would have considered that but was already deleted when I got the truck
Holy shit man, a lotta good information but you just deterred me from buying a diesel….i don’t want to buy something that requires this much maintenance….although i love a good sounding whistling 6.0…😎👍
egr delete have heads o-ring and studs antifreeze filter better oil filter and keep up with service
I recently purchased an E350 van and was not aware of the 6.0 problems so I've been getting up to speed on what can be done. Great video, very informative. I've not had any problems yet but want to make it reliable. I have a couple of questions from what you said about making it reliable. You mentioned "Get a good quality EGR, good quality water pump, change out oil cooler, freshen up FICM check turbo for correct accuation." Do you have recommendations on which EGR, water pump, oil cooler to use as replacements? Also, can you clarify what you mean by "freshen up FICM?" Should it just be replaced? I'm a complete novice so any direction you can point me would be much appreciated. Thanks!
@Josh Wesley thanks for the info!
I'm very surprised that you didn't mention the adapter that you sell to convert the electric fan clutch over to the 97 mechanical fan clutch. It helps to prevent overheating and head bolt stretching.
Thanks, good idea!
I did this and wish I did it sooner, pulling all the time.
Not going to mention the roof seams. The seam sealer usually gets rock hard, cracks and slowly rots the seams out. I’ve seen as much rust on the roof of these super duty’s as I have on the rockers.
The later 6.0s are better 05 and up egr delete them soon enough and run a good full synthetic oil and regularly maintain them they will typically last
I've got a question. I have a 2006 f250 power stroke that was was a regency badlander conversion. I don't know much about the badlander except it was some kind of off road package. It's studded with new oil pump and new oil cooler with an sct x4 programmer. Runs great except when I go over 100+ miles my oil change. It runs like crap especially when motor is cold. It's bad until I get oil temp up to 180 at least. It still continues to run some what bad but when I change the oil it's like day and night. Why would it do that?
"WRONG" , it is NOT the bolt configuration for the heads , it "ALL" starts with their cheapy design of an oil cooler which right in the heart of the engine. This causes the oil AND TEMPERATURE WATER FROM THE RADIATOR TO MIX BECAUSE OF THEIR FAILURE. So you need to replace that oil cooler, and YES, the BPD oil cooler system out from is the best so far. This will keep your oil cool, this will keep your EGR from failing, "AND" this will save your heads from over pressure. If you follow each failure as to why it failed, it ALL comes down to the oil cooler in the heart of the engine. It is a radiator type, with very thin walls separating the oil and radiator water apart. The Idiots used the water from the radiator to "COOL" your oil. everything on that truck runs off your "oil Pressure" which is why it is very important to maintain the oil cool and as clean as possible. Trying to cool all that oil and trying to run cool, the water pump goes out. So you need several upgrades. Water pump kit, oil pump high pressure valve, stand pipes (for your injectors), AND the Oil cooler 9doing away with what they have and installing an external cooler). "YES" BPD had what I needed, but I still think they were over priced. Close to 4 K doing it ALL myself. If you are in PHX, I will help you with what you need to do. If you research the head problem and bolts, YES they are also a cheap design, BUT fail because of high pressure under there caused by either a failed EGR, or oil cooler. "ALL" comes down to that "OIL COOLER"
God Bless !!
Forgot to mention earlier 6.0 coolant reservoirs the min is actually max level and if filled to max level it will push the excess coolant out of the cap…
Thanks for doing this video. Any info. on a 4x4 manual transmission version? Any thoughts on the transmission, clutch, etc.?
You're welcome! The ZF6 trans is an awesome unit! Really nothing to look for there except something that may have happened with abuse (syncro problems, etc.)
@@thoroughbreddiesel Thanks for the reply and info.
Only buy a 6.0 if you can do all the work and maintenance yourself!
6.0 are awesome power no problems for the 80k miles i drove for i bought it at 140k miles 2005
thanks dad
😂
I’m actually looking at two of these. Bought an Rv that will be close to the max of my 19 Ranger and I really don’t want to get rid of that. Both are 05s. One has body rust in the spots you expect it to and is a standard transmission (thoughts on this and the clutch would be appreciated). The other the body looks good but is a rebuilt title. Thoughts on which would be a better option. The rusty one is almost two grand cheaper than the rebuilt
I'd go with the body rust standard shift truck. There’s just something about rebuilt title trucks that give me the bad vibes. Clutch is solid if no performance mods are done.
@@thoroughbreddiesel ended up buying a 07 F250 that had bed that’s really rusty (probably will need to be replaced) but was owned by a Ford tech and got it really cheap 6500 bucks. Now the fun to get it straighten out with a local diesel shop.
Nice looking truck but could use some mud flaps.
6.0 ALL DAY!!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have 03. 6.0 bought new 1st Owen have 130000 miles. All needed to do is a new egr cooler . oil cooler . ficma too. Im a truck driver do know about heat on diesel motor. The 1 who don't know about diesel motors will break them because when the tow something heavy up a hill on a hot day. When they get to the top. Stop a store or rest area first thing the do turn off truck. When u need to let truck to cool down before turning truck off. That's y they break the 6.0
biggest problem is water circuit. EGR cooler super heats water and doesnt allow oil cooler to cool oil.
have to bypass oil cooler, replace heads and studs to make a decent engine out of it.
Wish they do one on 6.4
I’ve got a 6.0 that’s got oil (about an eighth inch thick) in the coolant reservoir. I bought it like that in hopes that it’s just left over from when they redid the head gasket with arp head studs. Look forward to digging into it and checking it out, any advice?
Clean and flush the coolant system and see if it comes back, that’s pretty much all you can do. If it comes back, I would suggest starting with testing or replacing the oil cooler.
Got a Ford 6.0L? Let us know in the comments and what problems you have seen with your truck. Do you agree with Wade on these common problems on 03-07 Ford Powerstrokes?
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I'm a 7.3 man but I wont bash on people that like 6.0s
Just recently traded in my '06 6.0 for 2020 f150 coyote 5.0. Honestly, the 6.0 was a decent truck for me. Had an egr cooler delete, 4" exhaust and various other upgrades. Being on 35s with a negative offset, I did wear out front end components that lead to a power steering pump failure. I spent $2800 upgrading the high pressure rail system, etc.. But then I realized that most of my issues I was having was related to diesel transfer to the oil system due to injectors. If it wasn't for the rusty roof, etc., I probably would have kept her longer. (Spend more $$ on an old truck or get a newer one).
We had a fleet of Sick.oh f350s , nothing but trouble but one duramax that had 500000 miles and only replaced 1 lifter pump
Interior - middle seat console lid pretty much comes apart on all of them.