Great video Michael. Three suggestions, if I may: 1. Even new, lithium batteries must be fully charged, either individually or in bulk as a parallel array. Once 100% state-of-charge (SoC) is achieved, cells must be assembled into their final arrangement, then top balanced (charged to 100% SoC using a BMS with balancing capability, or a balance charger). Regardless of even measured capacity, bringing all cells to 100% SoC in unison ensures the maximum capacity of the final pack. Otherwise, the cell group at the lowest SoC (regardless of voltage) compromises the entire pack. 2. Regarding charging and discharging, a universal rule of thumb to maximize the longevity of battery packs is to charge and discharge at 0.3C. To explain for your viewers, C stands for capacity. For example, a 2,500mAh cell's 1C rating is 2.5A. Therefore, 0.3C equals 0.75A, or 750mA. Charging and discharging at this rate ensures the safety of the battery pack, as well as it's longevity; easily extending its life by 3x to 5x. While it's acceptable to "push" a pack to the cell rating, it's best to do so infrequently and for only brief durations. So, assuming 2,000mAh nominal capacity for your 6S7P pack, (2A*0.3C)=0.6A*7P=4.2A without ever coming anywhere near your packs rating. Likewise, using these figures, your pack should be charged at 4.2A or less, recharging from 0% to 100% SoC in roughly 5 hours. So, 5 hours charging for 8 hours work. Not a bad bargain. 3. To maximize cell longevity, it's best to stay away from the "knees" of the power curve. There's only a negligible amount of capacity to be gained, either by discharging after the knee in the discharge curve, or by charging after the knee in the charge curve. Unfortunately, most low cost BMS boards will charge right up to the top and cut-off right at the bottom. So, to operate within an alternative band as I suggest, a programmable BMS is required. This is a no-brainer for larger packs. However, it just doesn't make financial sense for relatively small packs. As always, thanks for all the great content that you create and share.
This is perhaps the greatest youtube reply I've ever seen. Honestly. The video answered just about every question I had with building a pack.. except the BMS! This covers that, as well as gives constructive crit all around. I'm literally copy/pasting this. thank you John Coloe, AND TEACHING TECH!
@@seejjordan Thanks Chris. It's good to hear that some of the learnings I've acquired through long experience benefits others. I only touched on BMS's in my comment. Honestly, it's a subject for its own video. Perhaps Michael will create and share covering this important topic. In the meantime, if I can ever be of any assistance, please don't hesitate to reach out. My e-mail address is my first.last at Google's e-mail system. It'd be my pleasure.
I was going to come down here in the comments to talk about this as well. It is of utmost importance that all batteries in series are charged to a storage voltage before being welded (3.5 or 3.7V choose one and charge everything to that voltage)). If they are not the exact same voltage, when you weld them in parallel, the higher voltage cell(s) will short out into the lower voltage cell(s). You run the risk of creating a thermal runaway. If you look at how most manufacturers assemble 18650 packs, they either cut the strips long where soldering is required, or they add a short strip specifically for soldering. The welded strip takes more time, but is the safest route as the welded joint has a much lower thermal conductivity than a solid strip does. But, a welded connection also does not have the current handling capacity that you get from leaving the strip solid. Which way you go really depends on the power requirements of the soldered connection. Using the previously described charge rate of 1-2C, a welded connection is more that sufficient for a balancing connection. However, the primary output of a pack drawing 10+ amps might be too much for a single welded joint. This is where leaving the tab where the final parallel stage is welded to the pack a bit long would be the better solution. Soldering to a tab like that would give you the lowest resistance to your pack. Personally, I can't wait for the 4080 LiIon cells to become more popular. They are the most exciting technological breakthrough in batteries since LiPo packs became popular. They get the capacity and discharge rate of a LiPo, but with the safety of a LiIon. It's the best of both worlds.
Wow! Great video...now this great comment. I am hoping he will make a thorough video on charging/discharging if he has not yet. I agree with the commenter that stated: "This is perhaps the greatest youtube reply I've ever seen. Honestly."
@@TeachingTech thanks for the video, maybe soon also look in to lifepo4 cells and pouches. different voltage range from liion and lipo, but significantly more charge discharge cycles
Excellent video. One of the most informative and complete Li-Ion battery DYI building videos I've seen. Has most key points someone just learning need to know. Terms and sources so they know enough to search additional information. One point that might have been mentioned in more detail, when using reclaimed cells; is cells below 60% of new capacity should be avoided. They can't supply as much current and will reduce average cell capacity in the pack. Better to use cells as similar as possible. Best is all cells same (like if new from same manufactured batch), but this has substantial added cost. Before beginning to assemble cells together, a final check should be made that all cells are charged to nominal voltage (3.7V). Cells that are at different voltages will quickly try to self-balance, and this can cause them to emit excessive currents (aka sparks). Particularly joining in parallel (+..+, -..-). Once within ~0.1V of each order connecting together should go smooth. The K-weld is one of the best options. Being DYI kit, price is reasonable for a quality tool. Cheep (low priced) spot welders should be avoided as they do poor job of managing energy used in welds. When spot welding cells, it's better that they at nominal voltage (3.7V, or slightly lower, but above 3.0V) vs fully charged (4.2V). Should something go wrong, cells having much less energy will have lower potential to cause damage. A bucket of water nearby can act as safe zone/net (for just incase). If you first pack build, try a 3-6 cell (at most) pack to test and home your skills. Making a mistake on a smaller pack will have less risk (less energy). Still need to take all cautions mentioned. Just take you time and don't rush anything. :)
I'm 58. American in L.A. County. Who new nothing about Electrical last year. I thought I'd educate myself on 12th Grade electrical because we're now in the Electric Age. So, I went to the library & took out 'Physics Demystified'. Read the 4 chapters on D.C. then A.C. Current. I got it! A×V=W, or I×E=P. Ohms Law - A×R=V, or I×R=E. Even learned Sine Waves are looking at a pulley - edge on. Understood Trig and how it applies to all of it. I understand Phase Shift (say 120° for Alternators) and Inductance, now. But mostly, I can't wait to get a bread board and get hands on (that's what it takes for electrical) then make an 18650 battery pack to charge devices first (with a good Bluetooth BMS). Then build an Ebike pack . Or two or three, and build a custom Bike. Then a 1KW - 2KW solar system with a 3000W Inverter for my Vanlife Van. Complete with Isolator. There's a TH-camr - YehuGarcia here in SoCal (Legit Electrician) who sells big pallates of 100's of new 18650's at once for discounts. Thanks for the refresh on the Battery Pack Math!
Total battery newbie question; you say 22.2V is suitable for your 24V needs? So the printer will still work when the batteries discharge, and they're only providing ~20V? I want to make a 12V battery, as was wondering if i needed to make mine 3S or 4S 🤔
Depends but if ur trying to power sensitive electronics u should get a voltage regulator for 4s(boost converter for 3s) and wire ur battery to it then wire it to whatever
Immensely useful video - I have like 5 salvaged electric scooters that all use massive packs of LG 18650 cells. Literally sitting on dozens of them and have no idea what to use them for or how to safely use them - this will be such a great vid to keep in mind.
@@beez1598 I used to do mechanic/charging work as a contractor for Bird and they "retired" (disabled/recalled) a certain problematic model in my division and required that we ship back any that we picked up so they could be destroyed but the cost of shipping a giant scooter was higher than the reimbursement we would receive so me and every other mechanic I know just scrapped them ourselves. The parts aren't usable cross-model and the scooter had it's folding hinge removed (and then riveted+welded into place) so they weren't even useful for refurbishing, plus the brains were removed and replaced with a Bird-made chipbox that was remotely locked out. Between myself and the other mechanics in our decision I have no idea how much electronic scrap we saved from landfills but I've got a few scooters' worth of hub motors, battery packs with built-in BMSes, and a bunch of probably useless aluminium frames, so at least I can use the batteries for something now :)
If you have enough, you might look into building your own "power wall" that charges either via solar, or charges via house power during non-peak times, it can then be used during peak time to save money on your electric bill. I'm not an expert on this, but plenty of people on TH-cam are.
@@terrydaniels9573 I probably only have around 35-50 of the individually cells - not enough for a proper house power pack, BUT with that said there is a slim chance I'll end up in an RV/camper type living situation within the next 5 years so I would benefit greatly if I used them there :)
@@StormBurnX that’s really cool, thank you for sharing that! Thank you for taking the time to do this and at least take a few environmental hazards out of the system. I used to work In IT and would do the same with laptop batteries, and e waste . my manager wouldn’t pay to dispose of them proper so he would just throw them in the dumpster. I tried to sell him on having a salvage company come every month for free of course but he maintained it didn’t matter much since “a few hundred batteries a year aren’t going to make or break the environment.” Technically correct I suppose, but still a crappy take on the issue.
Just a thought: why not have the wires attached to short Ni strips before getting them close to the batteries (when heat from soldering is not a problem and even drilling some holes in the strips to have the leads go through would be an option) and then just spot-weld those strips to the battery-pack? Avoids getting dangerous actions close to the batteries.
I can only understand 50% of your contents, it look like my knowledge haven't reach the level of making my own lipo battery yet. Thanks for saving my day! If i made mistake on this project, i could end up wasting lot of money!
Best video so far! As other videos just tell you what they are doing instead of explaining where everything goes....until 14.35. Then the rest was over my head! This was the bit I wanted to learn. Can do the parallel connections, but where does the series go? some gaps and not connected? Serial connections on 1 side, not the other? Where do the charging plugs connect? which wire goes where?
Thanks, you just convinced me that I cannot improvise myself as a technician on the go, even if the idea of making my own batteries sounded really neat. At least now I have a better understanding of how these things work.
I'd love if you'd also do this in-depth video on various smart chargers and discharges, as well as the different kinds of BMSes, including ones with bypass, programmable, etc.
After having an 18650 go thermal runaway on me, I applaud your courage to work with them, makes me uneasy just watching it, waiting for the isolator ring to fail..
Timing on this is perfect! I’ll be doing something similar to this for a super racer that will be going into my rv. I don’t want it drawing power off my primaries, but I want to be able to charge it either when a generator is plugged in, solar, or the truck. Excellent video! As always :)
Great video, one big thing missing is how to deal with a battery fire - bucket of salt water. Also, do it somewhere that's ok to burn, and with plenty of ventilation. HF acid is nasty!
Here is the link to all my source CAD. you ca right click and export anything you want without an account: cad.onshape.com/documents/9f854275c67d8537da0d456f/w/109f792ba2c59fcde9545aaf/e/dca48bb26248603c97da2165?renderMode=0&uiState=6487b579b622966de0c31157
Fun fact, the first time I picked up an 18650 I wanted to know what voltage it was, set my meter to 12V DC and touched the leads to both ends and immediately it got extremely hot and burned my fingers. That's when I went on Google to find out why and now I know much more about these batteries.
At 3:31 its a bit misleading to say that no capacity is added. Each cell is cca 9 Wh. Look at it this way, adding another battery in series will make the mAh stay the same, but will boost the voltage form 3.6 to 7.2 V and P=I*V. Describing battery pack in Ah needs to die. Like all the ebike resellers say, we has a massive 10Ah battery pack (...at 12V) not like those other guys who have a tiny 5Ah pack (...at 24V) XD
I built a backpack 3D printer with a small delta printer, I used a battery alarm so it would warn me of overdischarges but I didn't use a BMS. The best solution would be a BMS that could activate power recovery on the controller board before the voltage drops so you don't ruin your print and batteries on discharging.
Amazing resource here. THANKS. What do you think about Molicel P50B ? 21700 5000mah. I'm building my first 6s pack for a high power EDF RC Jet. (3658-2150 KV Brushless)
I wonder if this fella talks to his homies with the same 2 tone up to one tone down to finish each sentence 🤔 I would love to see a video of him telling an epic story to his bros while keeping the same tone as these videos 😆 That would be pretty great. Informative video anyhow. I done learnt me some good book learnin
another thing to consider is chenistry so for example if you take samsung inr25r (wich they use in hilti powertools) those are actually designed and tested to fail in a safe manner - meaning they short circuit them and they cant blow up, explode, burn or anything, they just remain as they are but are broken afterwards. on the other hand, many cheap noname cells are much more dangerous and actually can explode, so its important to know the chemistry of the cell you are building with too :) also there are very well cells that are optimized for both capacity and drain, like the LG INR HG2 wich has 20A continuous discharge while offering a serious 3000mah capacity. as a long term e cigarette user, i know a lot of 18650 cells and their capabilities :)
Great video thanks! Do you still recommend the Melbourne supplier you mentioned in the video? Their prices seem quite reasonable for bulk purchases of new cells.
Great. Note, capacity (watt hour, Whr) increases for serially connected cells just the same as for paralleled cells. Doubling the voltage, doubles the capacity of a series connected pair relative to a single cell.
16:06 for people out there.. this part is dangerous. see those green plastic around the battery terminals? those are the only thin sheet that insulate that part of the battery. if you solder the way he did.. you might end up melting those plastic and revealed the metal part behind it. and if you are unlucky enough it will short your battery if the head is a the positive part and the shell is the negative.
Are you going to do an update to the Delta Mini? I’m planning to convert my delta mini to 24v, replace the hotend, replace the bed with a thicker plate, install a 24v bed heater, get rid of the bed leveling switches to replace with a probe, maybe magnetic klicky and enclose it to have a portable abs printer.
Nice edit so fast i was a little distracted watching the original haha I use both lipo and li-ion, currently building my first ebike atm with a custom aluminium box and a 14s5p pack with 21700s giving 52v 1.2kwh for a bbshd motor 😀
If youre doing beginner series and havent yet (your first video ibe seen) please explain the body of them and the need tollfor the top area not to have shrink oack damaged. Always good to buy a combo oack of shrink wrap colored packs that comes with the top ring insilators. Also that when transporting them to use a case or something keeping thwm apart and away from other metallic object that can cause short circuit.
Awesome video! The only area I feel grey on after that is the overcharge and drain protection. I hope you will do a detailed video on that if you have not yet. I just liked/subscribed.
Hello Michael. Thank you for sharing this awesome video. I learned alot from it. Quick question to ask. I am new to RC Car and I had acquired some 18650 used batteries a while back. I would like to use them (make some myself) on my RC car which currently came with a 2 cells batteries in series (7.4v 1200mAH). Question 1: Can I use the same charger that came with RC car to charge the 2 cells that I am going to make? Question 2: If not, what kind of charger I do need to buy to charge the new made batteries safely? Question 3: What your recommendation to do to use previous used 18650 batteries for the RC car? Thank you in advance. :) Jack
When building a battery from salvaged cells is it necessary to match resistance and capacity to ensure all cells charge in a similar time? I've seen some cells take way longer to reach full charge than others using the same charge even though they started at a similar voltage. Edit: watched more of the video and saw you use vastly different capacity cells Is this not asking for trouble? If a cell set drops voltage quickly because it is very low capacity will it not trigger the safety shut off sooner than necessary? Or is that what the calculator you used does? Matching the cells to ensure each parallel set has a similar total capacity. It just doesn't seem sensible to me to have cells that vary as much as the ones I saw you using, some looked to have 1/3 the capacity of others.
Hi there, thanks for the great video~! I saved it to my collection. Just 1 question: after we have the wires for balanced charging, where do I connect the terminal(which has the wires for balanced charging) to?
They go to whatever BMS you're using. It was briefly mentioned in the video at th-cam.com/video/tKg-jIrr_JE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/tKg-jIrr_JE/w-d-xo.html
You are sure that your printer draws 2A? What was the voltage in this wire? Seems strange, very low wats if we assume 24v, 50W in total. I am no expert but 2A seems more reasonable with 110v or 230v that would mean 220w or 460w of power demand
I am going to build a DeWalt 10 cell Samsung 30Q power supply. I think it is 5S5P, based upon your design specs. About how much capacity will it have in Amp Hours?
I have watched more battery-related videos than I care to count, and this has, by far, been the most resourceful.
Great video Michael. Three suggestions, if I may:
1. Even new, lithium batteries must be fully charged, either individually or in bulk as a parallel array. Once 100% state-of-charge (SoC) is achieved, cells must be assembled into their final arrangement, then top balanced (charged to 100% SoC using a BMS with balancing capability, or a balance charger).
Regardless of even measured capacity, bringing all cells to 100% SoC in unison ensures the maximum capacity of the final pack. Otherwise, the cell group at the lowest SoC (regardless of voltage) compromises the entire pack.
2. Regarding charging and discharging, a universal rule of thumb to maximize the longevity of battery packs is to charge and discharge at 0.3C. To explain for your viewers, C stands for capacity. For example, a 2,500mAh cell's 1C rating is 2.5A. Therefore, 0.3C equals 0.75A, or 750mA. Charging and discharging at this rate ensures the safety of the battery pack, as well as it's longevity; easily extending its life by 3x to 5x.
While it's acceptable to "push" a pack to the cell rating, it's best to do so infrequently and for only brief durations.
So, assuming 2,000mAh nominal capacity for your 6S7P pack, (2A*0.3C)=0.6A*7P=4.2A without ever coming anywhere near your packs rating.
Likewise, using these figures, your pack should be charged at 4.2A or less, recharging from 0% to 100% SoC in roughly 5 hours. So, 5 hours charging for 8 hours work. Not a bad bargain.
3. To maximize cell longevity, it's best to stay away from the "knees" of the power curve. There's only a negligible amount of capacity to be gained, either by discharging after the knee in the discharge curve, or by charging after the knee in the charge curve.
Unfortunately, most low cost BMS boards will charge right up to the top and cut-off right at the bottom. So, to operate within an alternative band as I suggest, a programmable BMS is required. This is a no-brainer for larger packs. However, it just doesn't make financial sense for relatively small packs.
As always, thanks for all the great content that you create and share.
This is perhaps the greatest youtube reply I've ever seen. Honestly. The video answered just about every question I had with building a pack.. except the BMS! This covers that, as well as gives constructive crit all around. I'm literally copy/pasting this. thank you John Coloe, AND TEACHING TECH!
@@seejjordan Thanks Chris. It's good to hear that some of the learnings I've acquired through long experience benefits others.
I only touched on BMS's in my comment. Honestly, it's a subject for its own video. Perhaps Michael will create and share covering this important topic.
In the meantime, if I can ever be of any assistance, please don't hesitate to reach out. My e-mail address is my first.last at Google's e-mail system. It'd be my pleasure.
Fantastic info here !! Well done
I was going to come down here in the comments to talk about this as well. It is of utmost importance that all batteries in series are charged to a storage voltage before being welded (3.5 or 3.7V choose one and charge everything to that voltage)). If they are not the exact same voltage, when you weld them in parallel, the higher voltage cell(s) will short out into the lower voltage cell(s). You run the risk of creating a thermal runaway.
If you look at how most manufacturers assemble 18650 packs, they either cut the strips long where soldering is required, or they add a short strip specifically for soldering. The welded strip takes more time, but is the safest route as the welded joint has a much lower thermal conductivity than a solid strip does. But, a welded connection also does not have the current handling capacity that you get from leaving the strip solid. Which way you go really depends on the power requirements of the soldered connection. Using the previously described charge rate of 1-2C, a welded connection is more that sufficient for a balancing connection. However, the primary output of a pack drawing 10+ amps might be too much for a single welded joint. This is where leaving the tab where the final parallel stage is welded to the pack a bit long would be the better solution. Soldering to a tab like that would give you the lowest resistance to your pack.
Personally, I can't wait for the 4080 LiIon cells to become more popular. They are the most exciting technological breakthrough in batteries since LiPo packs became popular. They get the capacity and discharge rate of a LiPo, but with the safety of a LiIon. It's the best of both worlds.
Wow! Great video...now this great comment. I am hoping he will make a thorough video on charging/discharging if he has not yet. I agree with the commenter that stated: "This is perhaps the greatest youtube reply I've ever seen. Honestly."
Sir, you get a thumbs up from me for reuploading with corrections.
I'd rather admit I stuffed up than leave the video like it was.
@@TeachingTech wow, this is a special kind of dedication to what you doing! I absolutely respect it! 👍👍👍
@@TeachingTech thanks for the video, maybe soon also look in to lifepo4 cells and pouches. different voltage range from liion and lipo, but significantly more charge discharge cycles
Finally someone who makes sense. Of all the videos out there yours is the best hands down! Thank you.
Excellent video. One of the most informative and complete Li-Ion battery DYI building videos I've seen.
Has most key points someone just learning need to know. Terms and sources so they know enough to search additional information.
One point that might have been mentioned in more detail, when using reclaimed cells; is cells below 60% of new capacity should be avoided. They can't supply as much current and will reduce average cell capacity in the pack.
Better to use cells as similar as possible. Best is all cells same (like if new from same manufactured batch), but this has substantial added cost.
Before beginning to assemble cells together, a final check should be made that all cells are charged to nominal voltage (3.7V). Cells that are at different voltages will quickly try to self-balance, and this can cause them to emit excessive currents (aka sparks). Particularly joining in parallel (+..+, -..-). Once within ~0.1V of each order connecting together should go smooth.
The K-weld is one of the best options. Being DYI kit, price is reasonable for a quality tool. Cheep (low priced) spot welders should be avoided as they do poor job of managing energy used in welds. When spot welding cells, it's better that they at nominal voltage (3.7V, or slightly lower, but above 3.0V) vs fully charged (4.2V). Should something go wrong, cells having much less energy will have lower potential to cause damage. A bucket of water nearby can act as safe zone/net (for just incase).
If you first pack build, try a 3-6 cell (at most) pack to test and home your skills. Making a mistake on a smaller pack will have less risk (less energy). Still need to take all cautions mentioned. Just take you time and don't rush anything. :)
Definitely one of the better video explaining how to make battery packs from 18650 batteries! Thanks!
Wonderful explanation of calculating current draw for custom-built battery packs
Thank you for explaining in such detail. Very well done. First time I donate on TH-cam. Very impressed
I'm 58. American in L.A. County. Who new nothing about Electrical last year. I thought I'd educate myself on 12th Grade electrical because we're now in the Electric Age. So, I went to the library & took out 'Physics Demystified'. Read the 4 chapters on D.C. then A.C. Current. I got it! A×V=W, or I×E=P. Ohms Law - A×R=V, or I×R=E. Even learned Sine Waves are looking at a pulley - edge on. Understood Trig and how it applies to all of it. I understand Phase Shift (say 120° for Alternators) and Inductance, now. But mostly, I can't wait to get a bread board and get hands on (that's what it takes for electrical) then make an 18650 battery pack to charge devices first (with a good Bluetooth BMS). Then build an Ebike pack . Or two or three, and build a custom Bike. Then a 1KW - 2KW solar system with a 3000W Inverter for my Vanlife Van. Complete with Isolator. There's a TH-camr - YehuGarcia here in SoCal (Legit Electrician) who sells big pallates of 100's of new 18650's at once for discounts. Thanks for the refresh on the Battery Pack Math!
Total battery newbie question; you say 22.2V is suitable for your 24V needs? So the printer will still work when the batteries discharge, and they're only providing ~20V?
I want to make a 12V battery, as was wondering if i needed to make mine 3S or 4S 🤔
Depends but if ur trying to power sensitive electronics u should get a voltage regulator for 4s(boost converter for 3s) and wire ur battery to it then wire it to whatever
Immensely useful video - I have like 5 salvaged electric scooters that all use massive packs of LG 18650 cells. Literally sitting on dozens of them and have no idea what to use them for or how to safely use them - this will be such a great vid to keep in mind.
Dang those were good salvage finds!!
@@beez1598 I used to do mechanic/charging work as a contractor for Bird and they "retired" (disabled/recalled) a certain problematic model in my division and required that we ship back any that we picked up so they could be destroyed but the cost of shipping a giant scooter was higher than the reimbursement we would receive so me and every other mechanic I know just scrapped them ourselves. The parts aren't usable cross-model and the scooter had it's folding hinge removed (and then riveted+welded into place) so they weren't even useful for refurbishing, plus the brains were removed and replaced with a Bird-made chipbox that was remotely locked out.
Between myself and the other mechanics in our decision I have no idea how much electronic scrap we saved from landfills but I've got a few scooters' worth of hub motors, battery packs with built-in BMSes, and a bunch of probably useless aluminium frames, so at least I can use the batteries for something now :)
If you have enough, you might look into building your own "power wall" that charges either via solar, or charges via house power during non-peak times, it can then be used during peak time to save money on your electric bill.
I'm not an expert on this, but plenty of people on TH-cam are.
@@terrydaniels9573 I probably only have around 35-50 of the individually cells - not enough for a proper house power pack, BUT with that said there is a slim chance I'll end up in an RV/camper type living situation within the next 5 years so I would benefit greatly if I used them there :)
@@StormBurnX that’s really cool, thank you for sharing that! Thank you for taking the time to do this and at least take a few environmental hazards out of the system. I used to work In IT and would do the same with laptop batteries, and e waste . my manager wouldn’t pay to dispose of them proper so he would just throw them in the dumpster. I tried to sell him on having a salvage company come every month for free of course but he maintained it didn’t matter much since “a few hundred batteries a year aren’t going to make or break the environment.” Technically correct I suppose, but still a crappy take on the issue.
This is hands down the best tech instructional video I've ever watched. Thanks!!! Comments are extremely informative as well! Cheers!!
Just a thought: why not have the wires attached to short Ni strips before getting them close to the batteries (when heat from soldering is not a problem and even drilling some holes in the strips to have the leads go through would be an option) and then just spot-weld those strips to the battery-pack? Avoids getting dangerous actions close to the batteries.
I've always wandered the same question, buy nobody does that, EVERYBODY does it like in this video and I really have no idea why..
ooo that's a good idea
Thanks Michael - you've saved me / taught me so much - most grateful for your well thought-out video helps. Best of the season to you + thanks again😀
I can only understand 50% of your contents, it look like my knowledge haven't reach the level of making my own lipo battery yet. Thanks for saving my day! If i made mistake on this project, i could end up wasting lot of money!
13:37 seeing be battery wires jump from the current coming through 😳 nice video!
Best video so far! As other videos just tell you what they are doing instead of explaining where everything goes....until 14.35. Then the rest was over my head! This was the bit I wanted to learn. Can do the parallel connections, but where does the series go? some gaps and not connected? Serial connections on 1 side, not the other? Where do the charging plugs connect? which wire goes where?
Best video of battery building I have seen. So informative. Thank you.
This is the best 18650 video ever! Thanks
Your getting a big thumbs up from me buddy, that was such a great detailed comprehensive video. I learnt loads , cheers buddy
Wow that was quick, thoroughly enjoyed and as usual oddly convenient timing
Ditto
Thanks, you just convinced me that I cannot improvise myself as a technician on the go, even if the idea of making my own batteries sounded really neat. At least now I have a better understanding of how these things work.
Love your video, basic math, and lots of common sense
I'd love if you'd also do this in-depth video on various smart chargers and discharges, as well as the different kinds of BMSes, including ones with bypass, programmable, etc.
After having an 18650 go thermal runaway on me, I applaud your courage to work with them, makes me uneasy just watching it, waiting for the isolator ring to fail..
😢such low views and such an excellent way of deliveriing the information. AWESOME VIDEO ❤
Finally, clarity in explanations ! Thank you !
Timing on this is perfect! I’ll be doing something similar to this for a super racer that will be going into my rv. I don’t want it drawing power off my primaries, but I want to be able to charge it either when a generator is plugged in, solar, or the truck. Excellent video! As always :)
I really like your channel. You are going so deep into each topic. Great knowledge and skills.
What a absolutely brilliant video learned so much as a just getting into 18650 batteries thank you
I loved the burning battery reminder
Great video, one big thing missing is how to deal with a battery fire - bucket of salt water. Also, do it somewhere that's ok to burn, and with plenty of ventilation. HF acid is nasty!
Thank you for helping us identify fake sells this is great
I've been wanting to make a battery to replace the one stolen from my e-bike. It's 18V, so this has been helpful.
Thanks for making this guide, I was wondering about this for a while now
Literally a phenomenal video.
Best video I have seen. Educational. Thanks
Great video! Can you please share the STL for the Monoprice mini delta battery?
Here is the link to all my source CAD. you ca right click and export anything you want without an account: cad.onshape.com/documents/9f854275c67d8537da0d456f/w/109f792ba2c59fcde9545aaf/e/dca48bb26248603c97da2165?renderMode=0&uiState=6487b579b622966de0c31157
@@TeachingTech Thank you so much Michael!
Fun fact, the first time I picked up an 18650 I wanted to know what voltage it was, set my meter to 12V DC and touched the leads to both ends and immediately it got extremely hot and burned my fingers. That's when I went on Google to find out why and now I know much more about these batteries.
Sounds like forgetting the leads in current mode, that's pretty much a dead short on the meter.
Great video, any possibility of releasing you cad files for the battery holder and printer base?
Thank you for your work ! Have an happy new year 2022 !
Well said. Yes, if the goal is to not get her to run hot, then nickle should be placed on the knees of the connective points.
Just what I needed. Nice one mate!
At 3:31 its a bit misleading to say that no capacity is added. Each cell is cca 9 Wh. Look at it this way, adding another battery in series will make the mAh stay the same, but will boost the voltage form 3.6 to 7.2 V and P=I*V.
Describing battery pack in Ah needs to die. Like all the ebike resellers say, we has a massive 10Ah battery pack (...at 12V) not like those other guys who have a tiny 5Ah pack (...at 24V) XD
agreed, KWh along with the sustained and burst currents is what needs to be used
Yeah, the capacity is determined by the number of cells you have, not if those cells are in series of parallel.
Thank you for creating this amazingly detailed video
I built a backpack 3D printer with a small delta printer, I used a battery alarm so it would warn me of overdischarges but I didn't use a BMS. The best solution would be a BMS that could activate power recovery on the controller board before the voltage drops so you don't ruin your print and batteries on discharging.
Amazing resource here. THANKS. What do you think about Molicel P50B ? 21700 5000mah. I'm building my first 6s pack for a high power EDF RC Jet. (3658-2150 KV Brushless)
Great video and awesome information, thanks, Michael!
I wonder if this fella talks to his homies with the same 2 tone up to one tone down to finish each sentence 🤔 I would love to see a video of him telling an epic story to his bros while keeping the same tone as these videos 😆 That would be pretty great. Informative video anyhow. I done learnt me some good book learnin
another thing to consider is chenistry so for example if you take samsung inr25r (wich they use in hilti powertools) those are actually designed and tested to fail in a safe manner - meaning they short circuit them and they cant blow up, explode, burn or anything, they just remain as they are but are broken afterwards. on the other hand, many cheap noname cells are much more dangerous and actually can explode, so its important to know the chemistry of the cell you are building with too :) also there are very well cells that are optimized for both capacity and drain, like the LG INR HG2 wich has 20A continuous discharge while offering a serious 3000mah capacity. as a long term e cigarette user, i know a lot of 18650 cells and their capabilities :)
Great video thanks! Do you still recommend the Melbourne supplier you mentioned in the video? Their prices seem quite reasonable for bulk purchases of new cells.
Great. Note, capacity (watt hour, Whr) increases for serially connected cells just the same as for paralleled cells. Doubling the voltage, doubles the capacity of a series connected pair relative to a single cell.
that would be energy (Wh), capacity is different (Ah)
Really really informative. You know your subject. Thanks
13:36 There's enough power going through the battery leads to move from the magnetic field generated. Fun :)
FANTASTIC Video! Thank you so much for this wealth of info!
Ah yeah. Hes got the kweld. The us reseller is a friend of mine. Real good dude
best video on this subject!!! thank you very much!!!!
16:06 for people out there.. this part is dangerous.
see those green plastic around the battery terminals? those are the only thin sheet that insulate that part of the battery. if you solder the way he did..
you might end up melting those plastic and revealed the metal part behind it. and if you are unlucky enough it will short your battery if the head is a the positive part and the shell is the negative.
Are you going to do an update to the Delta Mini?
I’m planning to convert my delta mini to 24v, replace the hotend, replace the bed with a thicker plate, install a 24v bed heater, get rid of the bed leveling switches to replace with a probe, maybe magnetic klicky and enclose it to have a portable abs printer.
my bed leveling switch broke on one corner. you know what size would be the proper replacement?
Tons of information!
i would have loved to see you replace the 12v heated bed (which was woeful anyway) with a small circular 24v silicon one from keenovo
Nice edit so fast i was a little distracted watching the original haha I use both lipo and li-ion, currently building my first ebike atm with a custom aluminium box and a 14s5p pack with 21700s giving 52v 1.2kwh for a bbshd motor 😀
Thanks. I'm looking to add a rechargeable battery for a led sign. Is that a good option?
i was watching the video from far away so 0:59 gave me darwin award vibes
@teaching tech, any possibility you'll release or share your .stl files for the 3d printed additions so one may build off of what you started?
If youre doing beginner series and havent yet (your first video ibe seen) please explain the body of them and the need tollfor the top area not to have shrink oack damaged. Always good to buy a combo oack of shrink wrap colored packs that comes with the top ring insilators.
Also that when transporting them to use a case or something keeping thwm apart and away from other metallic object that can cause short circuit.
13:40 that electrodynamic force!
Wow this was fantastic! Thank you!
8:17
Maybe the add means that’s the capacity of all 11 cells lol
I want to know where I can have high-quality custom battery builds performed.
Can also use zipties for the bracket or need holes for screws?
Awesome video! The only area I feel grey on after that is the overcharge and drain protection. I hope you will do a detailed video on that if you have not yet. I just liked/subscribed.
Hello Michael. Thank you for sharing this awesome video. I learned alot from it. Quick question to ask. I am new to RC Car and I had acquired some 18650 used batteries a while back. I would like to use them (make some myself) on my RC car which currently came with a 2 cells batteries in series (7.4v 1200mAH). Question 1: Can I use the same charger that came with RC car to charge the 2 cells that I am going to make? Question 2: If not, what kind of charger I do need to buy to charge the new made batteries safely? Question 3: What your recommendation to do to use previous used 18650 batteries for the RC car? Thank you in advance. :) Jack
thanks so much this helped a LOT with the project im working on great video
That charger you mentioned is no longer available on Amazon. Can you recommend another?
😊 thank you your video did make it easier for me to understand
Great video as always
Good walkthrough of the process
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
When building a battery from salvaged cells is it necessary to match resistance and capacity to ensure all cells charge in a similar time?
I've seen some cells take way longer to reach full charge than others using the same charge even though they started at a similar voltage.
Edit: watched more of the video and saw you use vastly different capacity cells
Is this not asking for trouble? If a cell set drops voltage quickly because it is very low capacity will it not trigger the safety shut off sooner than necessary?
Or is that what the calculator you used does? Matching the cells to ensure each parallel set has a similar total capacity.
It just doesn't seem sensible to me to have cells that vary as much as the ones I saw you using, some looked to have 1/3 the capacity of others.
Cool. I found some in a broken hover board. All good voltage. I was wondering what to do with them. Chur brother 👍🏾🇳🇿
Amazing Project ❤❤❤
Superb video, thank you. More content like this please 🙏
Hi there, thanks for the great video~! I saved it to my collection. Just 1 question: after we have the wires for balanced charging, where do I connect the terminal(which has the wires for balanced charging) to?
They go to whatever BMS you're using. It was briefly mentioned in the video at th-cam.com/video/tKg-jIrr_JE/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/tKg-jIrr_JE/w-d-xo.html
So clear and concise 👌🏼
As always love your work 👍
Thanks for this video. Applying immediately
This is a very helpful video clip, Thank you so much! :)
You show pics of both Li Ion and LiPO4? What's the difference and requirements for charging and bms?
thanks for sharing. need more videos about battery
What was the brand of the 18650 balance charger? Also, should I use the drain cycle before a full charge?
Fantastic video! Thank you very much!
Very good video - great job!
Great video. Thank you.
Great video
OMG THIS GUY HAS AN OBSESSION WITH OLD EXPLODING LIPOS 😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank You for sharing this knowledge!
Good video brother ⚡️👍
You are sure that your printer draws 2A?
What was the voltage in this wire?
Seems strange, very low wats if we assume 24v, 50W in total. I am no expert but 2A seems more reasonable with 110v or 230v that would mean 220w or 460w of power demand
I am going to build a DeWalt 10 cell Samsung 30Q power supply. I think it is 5S5P, based upon your design specs. About how much capacity will it have in Amp Hours?
I heard some 18650 batteries have built in protection electronics
Can I build a pack with some are different in amperage? Reason being I have some salvaged 18650.