Thank you so much for this video. We need to replace the 3/4 tubing insulation on our HVAC copper piping. This video was very easy to follow along with. We will definitely be ordering the K-flex 3/4 inch replacement tubing for our HVAC copper pipe. Thank you again!!
Nice video. Suggest everyone to make sure the foam insulation is also "UV rated" to protect against degrading from sun exposure/radiation. If you installed new foam, but it wasn't UV rated, they make a paint-on white protectant you can apply afterwards. Commonly called ArmaFlex WB, although there are other competitor products out there.
When bending the insulation sleeve, it's recommended that the seam is not on the inside or the outside of the curve, but rather on one of the sides, avoiding overcompressing or overstretching
Dani . i saw your comment so when doing the whole thing make the seam be on the side then not on the bottom or the top , does it make it easier then to tape it too .. ?
thank you, I put the insulation on the pipe outside AC unit,but left the wire that is on the side of pipe inside the insulation. Was it bad? is the thermostat wire
Well done. To protect against UV rays (which damage that foam insulation), one can wrap the insulation in line set tape, which is UV rated. Also, they sell heavy duty covers for the insulation, but they can be pricey.
You sound like a guy in the trade. So in February 2024 I put an 18K mini split in. The line runs through the attic above the garage. I checked the system last week and found condensation on the lineset. It’s that white one that looks like all like use. Any suggestions?
@@markepperson8482 i didnt know that this could affect how your AC unit is running, good to know! mine is working extra hard, likely due to this. thanks for the insight
Note to self Sashimi PVC pipe in half(longitude) 2 half duct tape long Chop/slice/cut into segments for bending Insert insulator on inner half and sashimi Repeat for other half Clothes peg sprung big clip Drip is have Hinge is third strip of duct tape
Thanks for this video. I'm only discovering that my insulation came off and it has been around 18 degrees Fahrenheit where I am, is it too late to apply the insulation to the exposed area?
The suction line (the bigger copper pipe) condensates constantly when it is hot and humid and the A/C is running. If the line is uninsulated or there are gaps, tears, open seams, etc- water will drip out and cause moisture damage to surrounding areas. This is especially important if your unit is split inside the home- the condenser fan is outdoors while the actual blower is inside the attic, closet, or crawlspace. It’s a common issue I find on almost every home. A slow leak is almost always the most damaging as it goes unnoticed until the damage is done. The suction line and condensate drain line during A/C use put out ALOT of water. So in addition to insulation helping your unit function effectively, this insulation protects the surrounding areas from moisture damage.
@@ememchi3717 Thank you for the clear and comprehensive explanation. I wrapped my AC piping soon after watching this video. I also wrapped it in vinyl tape to help protect against the hot Texas sun. So far so good.
The layman explanation is that this copper pipe carries the "coldness" from the outdoor unit to your indoor air handler. If it is uninsulated then you will "lose some cold" to the outside heat before it makes it inside.
In the place where I live, birds are pecking off this insulation to make their nests. Can somebody please give me a solution to this problem? Can I use a PVC pipe to cover the insulation and protect it from the birds, or will this move cause any damage to my Air Conditioner?
Good question, Adrian. Just yesterday I made (possibly temporary) DIY insulation by wrapping the copper tubing with bubble wrap and two layers of Gorilla tape. Seems to me that this would have at least some insulating factor and be far better than a bare tube. I may cut it off eventually and go with the real insulation. Cheers.
I'm guessing the wire can take the cold temperature under the insulation as it is designed to handle the cold of winter. If it were mine, I would leave it.
What is the purpose of zip ties? Seems like an unnecessary step for cosmetic reasons only, and the downside is you do it too tight and compress the insulation. My AC unit is not very visible. Can you skip this step?
How to fill the sides of holes in the wall (from the back side) which was created to put through AC indoor Cooper pipes without distrubing the flare joints and copper pipes to prevent any gas leakage? Thank you
Duct Seal from your local hardware supply store. Not permanent like spray foam, can be removed easily if needed to replace or add utilities through the penetration.
How do I know what diameter size to get? I see a few measurements on the tape hyperlink - 7/8” pipe (O.D.) x 3/4” wall insulation-lock DS. What is the difference of the 2 measurements and what does O.D. Mean? Thanks.
The O.D refers to the outer diameter of the copper tubing. So in my case, the pipe was 7/8" in diameter. The 3/4" is the thickness of the foam. It can be hard to measure the diameter of a pipe if you don't have a caliper. You can just cut some notches in a piece of paper 3/4", 7/8", etc... wide and see which one fits over the pipe.
It would probably be best to remove the old foam so the new foam can sit against the tubing and be properly sealed. If air can easily move around the tubing, the insulation won't be as effective. It think it would be hard to accomplish this with the old foam in place.
On the outside it matters not unless super long run. Of course in walls and attics the condensation is detrimental. Let me explain it through an example. All manufactures are trying their best to get maximum performance on their equipment. If insulating the suction lines mattered they would do so. Agree? Now look inside your unit and notice they do not insulate this line.
I should definitely turn it off and do one or both disconnects. There is no way to know if water could penetrate somewhere on the AC where it shouldn't.
Right - unless it’s a mini-split, you *want* the liquid line to cool off. But as far as I can tell from a few minutes of interwebbing, the extra cooling surface area is insignificant compared to the area of your condensers fins (with a fan forcing ambient air through them). Also, the gizmos that “precool” the air around the condenser with misted water aren’t worth it either: they generally just coat the fund with hard water deposits and effective insulate them and the drop in temperature isn’t much on the Kelvin scale anyway.
Rick: Most mini-splits have the smaller line also insulated because the refrigerant is metered inside the outdoor unit and it has to be kept cool on its way back. I’m here because I had a house without ac retrofit for it and the line set is over 100 feet. Some of my set is bare liquid line, and some are insulated together which as far as I can tell isn’t a significant energy loss except they shouldn’t touch so that they don’t corrode each other. (They’re both copper, but the fluids inside create a differential (metal fatigue??)) And corrosion from condensation is the main reason for insulting the suction line - the tiny increase in efficiency is just a bonus compared to a hole in the pipe.
Hello, Yesterday, my technician tried installing my Daikin non inverter AC, but he left in the middle as we could not finalize the outdoor location. Now i have finalized the outdoor location, but the problem is that the copper pipes of the Indoor unit has been straightened perpendicularly by the technician, now the changed location i decided will require the same perpendicularly rotated copper pipes of indoor to be re-rotation of the pipes into their original position as it comes from the company (horizontally aligned inside the indoor). Can this re- rotation of copper pipes from the vertical position to the previous horizontal position cause weakening or breaking of the Indoor copper pipes? Feedback from anyone will be hugely appreciated. Thank you
I'm not sure how many times the pipe can be bent before they become weak. I'm guessing wide bends are going to put less stress on the tubing than tight bends.
Dumb question - looking to get the correct size of the foam for my pipe - would I be basing the size off of the diameter of the pipe, or would I be looking at the circumference (wrapping a tape ruler around the pipe)? Also do you have thoughts on the difference between foam and rubber insulators for the copper pipe i have (it is currently 'sweating' outside my condenser unit)?
My brand new ac unit is sweating at that line but inside the outer unit near the compressor. Do you insulate inside the outer unit as well? It normally has small puddles near the compressor. Also, the valve for this line is always sweating as well… On another note this new Rheem 2.5 ton AC normally runs for just 7 minutes… Install guy says its normal? (Same one who has not insulated the cold pipe)
Thank you so much for this video. We need to replace the 3/4 tubing insulation on our HVAC copper piping. This video was very easy to follow along with.
We will definitely be ordering the K-flex 3/4 inch replacement tubing for our HVAC copper pipe.
Thank you again!!
Thank you for posting this! I just went outside and took a look at the insulation on mine and it definitely needs replacing.
Nice video. Suggest everyone to make sure the foam insulation is also "UV rated" to protect against degrading from sun exposure/radiation. If you installed new foam, but it wasn't UV rated, they make a paint-on white protectant you can apply afterwards. Commonly called ArmaFlex WB, although there are other competitor products out there.
You can also wrap it with reflective metal foil tape to reflect the sun and and UV. I couldn't find ArmaFlex WB at my store.
There is metal foil UV protection on Amazon. It required by codes when you pull permit to install the A/C
Is K-flex tubing “UV rated”?
When bending the insulation sleeve, it's recommended that the seam is not on the inside or the outside of the curve, but rather on one of the sides, avoiding overcompressing or overstretching
Thank you for the tip!
Dani . i saw your comment so when doing the whole thing make the seam be on the side then not on the bottom or the top , does it make it easier then to tape it too .. ?
thank you, I put the insulation on the pipe outside AC unit,but left the wire that is on the side of pipe inside the insulation. Was it bad? is the thermostat wire
easy to install does a great job, not noisy at all. I really like it !
Well done. To protect against UV rays (which damage that foam insulation), one can wrap the insulation in line set tape, which is UV rated. Also, they sell heavy duty covers for the insulation, but they can be pricey.
You sound like a guy in the trade. So in February 2024 I put an 18K mini split in. The line runs through the attic above the garage. I checked the system last week and found condensation on the lineset. It’s that white one that looks like all like use. Any suggestions?
Just replaced mine this morning, i had noticed the insulation had chunks missing , ty for vid!
I've been checking mine when I mow. You can get protective covers to go over them if you notice an animal has been chewing on it.
@@Rickmakes today Im noticing my ac is not running as long as it use to, it's not working so hard now keeping the house cool. Thanks again!
@@markepperson8482 i didnt know that this could affect how your AC unit is running, good to know! mine is working extra hard, likely due to this. thanks for the insight
Is ok to put aluminum tape over the insulation?
Thanks for showing this. Part of my insulation was missing and moisture was making it freeze up. We'll see if that does the trick.
I'm glad google brought me here, thanks for the clear directions.
Glad it was helpful!
FANTASTIC VIDEO and instructions! Thanks so much!!
I was cleaning my coils today and noticed the lines coming out of the compressor are uninsulated. There has to be a reason for this right?
Note to self
Sashimi PVC pipe in half(longitude)
2 half duct tape long
Chop/slice/cut into segments for bending
Insert insulator on inner half and sashimi
Repeat for other half
Clothes peg sprung big clip
Drip is have
Hinge is third strip of duct tape
Valuable comments noted
= UV rating, protection paint
= non compression
= ... ...
= amazon
= ... ...
Thanks for this video. I'm only discovering that my insulation came off and it has been around 18 degrees Fahrenheit where I am, is it too late to apply the insulation to the exposed area?
That was pretty easy , do you have to shut off the unit and take out the fuse too ??
thanks for sharing
thanks, exactly what i was looking for
Can you use tape 3m 3350 tape to put over the foam insulation? I seen other videos they taped the insulation. Thanks
Super helpful video! Thanks
Can you explain what the insulation is there for? I know it's to stop condensation on the pipe, but why is that bad for the A/C?
I would assume it's due to wasted energy which will in turn make your AC work harder than if it didn't have to make up for the lost cooling.
@@justporter I went ahead and replaced mine for both units. They were pretty bad. Feels good to see the new insulation.
The suction line (the bigger copper pipe) condensates constantly when it is hot and humid and the A/C is running. If the line is uninsulated or there are gaps, tears, open seams, etc- water will drip out and cause moisture damage to surrounding areas. This is especially important if your unit is split inside the home- the condenser fan is outdoors while the actual blower is inside the attic, closet, or crawlspace.
It’s a common issue I find on almost every home. A slow leak is almost always the most damaging as it goes unnoticed until the damage is done. The suction line and condensate drain line during A/C use put out ALOT of water. So in addition to insulation helping your unit function effectively, this insulation protects the surrounding areas from moisture damage.
@@ememchi3717 Thank you for the clear and comprehensive explanation. I wrapped my AC piping soon after watching this video. I also wrapped it in vinyl tape to help protect against the hot Texas sun. So far so good.
The layman explanation is that this copper pipe carries the "coldness" from the outdoor unit to your indoor air handler. If it is uninsulated then you will "lose some cold" to the outside heat before it makes it inside.
Thank you for the video!
In the place where I live, birds are pecking off this insulation to make their nests. Can somebody please give me a solution to this problem? Can I use a PVC pipe to cover the insulation and protect it from the birds, or will this move cause any damage to my Air Conditioner?
You might try a line set cover: www.supplyhouse.com/Airex-Line-Set-Covers-33960000
Awesome advice on not to tighten or squeeze the insulation hose, if not the insulation effect will be useless
Can you provide a link to this insulation please? Thank you
My bad, I found the link.
I didn't watch you video until after I put my insulation on. My pipe has some condensation on it when I installed it. What harm will that cause?
It will probably be fine. The copper piping won't be affected by it and it will probably evaporate over time.
This may be a silly question, but does that same line need to be insulated once it gets below ground and in the crawlspace?
They are generally insulated when new. I think it is a good idea to insulate it if for no other reason than to reduce condensation.
Does anyone make a flexible adhesive-backed jacket to install over the insulation and offer better protection against UV?
I haven't used it but I pointed someone else to this product the other day: www.supplyhouse.com/Airex-Line-Set-Covers-33960000
Can you please tell me what is the white wire that was tied to the foam insulated tubing?
That is the control wire for the AC. It is connected to the control board on the furnace and tells the outside unit when to turn on and off.
Is it safe to wrap the insulation (foam) with heavy duty tape after the install as another line of defense?
I don't see any problem with that. You can buy protective sleeves that go over the foam so tape should serve the same purpose.
Looks for UV rated rubber tapes.
Good question, Adrian. Just yesterday I made (possibly temporary) DIY insulation by wrapping the copper tubing with bubble wrap and two layers of Gorilla tape. Seems to me that this would have at least some insulating factor and be far better than a bare tube. I may cut it off eventually and go with the real insulation. Cheers.
Ooops… I incorporated that flexible wire into the insulation also. Is that bad?
I'm guessing the wire can take the cold temperature under the insulation as it is designed to handle the cold of winter. If it were mine, I would leave it.
What is the purpose of zip ties? Seems like an unnecessary step for cosmetic reasons only, and the downside is you do it too tight and compress the insulation. My AC unit is not very visible. Can you skip this step?
The zip ties just hold the control wire in place. They don't need to be tight at all. It is a good idea to secure them so they don't get damaged.
How to fill the sides of holes in the wall (from the back side) which was created to put through AC indoor Cooper pipes without distrubing the flare joints and copper pipes to prevent any gas leakage?
Thank you
I think my installer used caulk but a lot of air was leaking through it so I sealed it with Great Stuff foam. A little goes a long way.
Duct Seal from your local hardware supply store. Not permanent like spray foam, can be removed easily if needed to replace or add utilities through the penetration.
If I wanted to add tape to secure the seams, what tape would you recommend?
I would look for "HVAC Line Set Tape". You might be able to get it locally and can certainly get it online.
PVC tape.
How do I know what diameter size to get? I see a few measurements on the tape hyperlink - 7/8” pipe (O.D.) x 3/4” wall insulation-lock DS. What is the difference of the 2 measurements and what does O.D. Mean? Thanks.
The O.D refers to the outer diameter of the copper tubing. So in my case, the pipe was 7/8" in diameter. The 3/4" is the thickness of the foam. It can be hard to measure the diameter of a pipe if you don't have a caliper. You can just cut some notches in a piece of paper 3/4", 7/8", etc... wide and see which one fits over the pipe.
@@Rickmakes I know it s year ago, but another way to measure is to use some open ended wrenches (or an adjustable wrench if it has a scale imprinted).
Any problem if I install on top of existing broken foam without ripping it off?
It would probably be best to remove the old foam so the new foam can sit against the tubing and be properly sealed. If air can easily move around the tubing, the insulation won't be as effective. It think it would be hard to accomplish this with the old foam in place.
WHAT IS THIS BLACK RUBBBER TUBE FOR？
It insulates the pipe.
On the outside it matters not unless super long run. Of course in walls and attics the condensation is detrimental. Let me explain it through an example. All manufactures are trying their best to get maximum performance on their equipment. If insulating the suction lines mattered they would do so. Agree? Now look inside your unit and notice they do not insulate this line.
Mine was insulated outside and inside when they installed it. I was just replacing the original insulation.
@@Rickmakes Yes we normally insulate just wanted to share it's useless
Do I have to turn off the unit ?
I should definitely turn it off and do one or both disconnects. There is no way to know if water could penetrate somewhere on the AC where it shouldn't.
Oh crap I insulated the smaller one too
That is generally left bare. I don't know if insulating it has a negative effect as such.
Right - unless it’s a mini-split, you *want* the liquid line to cool off. But as far as I can tell from a few minutes of interwebbing, the extra cooling surface area is insignificant compared to the area of your condensers fins (with a fan forcing ambient air through them). Also, the gizmos that “precool” the air around the condenser with misted water aren’t worth it either: they generally just coat the fund with hard water deposits and effective insulate them and the drop in temperature isn’t much on the Kelvin scale anyway.
Rick: Most mini-splits have the smaller line also insulated because the refrigerant is metered inside the outdoor unit and it has to be kept cool on its way back. I’m here because I had a house without ac retrofit for it and the line set is over 100 feet. Some of my set is bare liquid line, and some are insulated together which as far as I can tell isn’t a significant energy loss except they shouldn’t touch so that they don’t corrode each other. (They’re both copper, but the fluids inside create a differential (metal fatigue??)) And corrosion from condensation is the main reason for insulting the suction line - the tiny increase in efficiency is just a bonus compared to a hole in the pipe.
Hello,
Yesterday, my technician tried installing my Daikin non inverter AC, but he left in the middle as we could not finalize the outdoor location. Now i have finalized the outdoor location, but the problem is that the copper pipes of the Indoor unit has been straightened perpendicularly by the technician, now the changed location i decided will require the same perpendicularly rotated copper pipes of indoor to be re-rotation of the pipes into their original position as it comes from the company (horizontally aligned inside the indoor). Can this re- rotation of copper pipes from the vertical position to the previous horizontal position cause weakening or breaking of the Indoor copper pipes? Feedback from anyone will be hugely appreciated.
Thank you
I'm not sure how many times the pipe can be bent before they become weak. I'm guessing wide bends are going to put less stress on the tubing than tight bends.
Dumb question - looking to get the correct size of the foam for my pipe - would I be basing the size off of the diameter of the pipe, or would I be looking at the circumference (wrapping a tape ruler around the pipe)? Also do you have thoughts on the difference between foam and rubber insulators for the copper pipe i have (it is currently 'sweating' outside my condenser unit)?
You want to use the diameter of your pipe. I prefer foam insulation and the thickest you can get. This will be the best at preventing condensation.
How about …inside the box….there is about a foot and a half of exposed pipe inside!
Try this instead. $2.00 pool noodle and higher density foam.
This is much higher density than a pool noodle. Pool noodles are polyethylene, which isn't UV stable. This is a nitrile butadiene foam rubber.
My brand new ac unit is sweating at that line but inside the outer unit near the compressor. Do you insulate inside the outer unit as well? It normally has small puddles near the compressor. Also, the valve for this line is always sweating as well…
On another note this new Rheem 2.5 ton AC normally runs for just 7 minutes… Install guy says its normal? (Same one who has not insulated the cold pipe)
I don't recall any insulation inside of mine near the compressor.