JR is o so right just get I in and running and you can waste your money latter on. The cost of building a small block chevy to just match a 5.3 ls motor stock hp is just nuts or your just waste full with your money. 500 hp at Rear wheel is more power then most people can even Handel depending on what ya put it in. JR thank you for posting your awesome knowledge on these ls change over you are so helpful is awesome. Thanks JR keep them C10 wheels burning nice job.
Wish I would've watched this video a long time ago, I bought a used LS1 off of facebook for a swap a couple years ago and spent $1,800 because it had a fast intake manifold and a cam so I thought it was worth it at the time but didn't know anything about LS motors. Turns out it had 862 heads and a truck oil pan with no pickup tube in it, and it was missing all the accessories and sensors so I'm well over $4k into that motor after taking it to a machine shop and put it together correctly. Learned my lesson after that one and went to the junkyard this past weekend and pulled a whole motor out of an early 2000s tahoe and have literally everything, I even snuck the torque converter out with me and it was barely over $200 at pick n pull. I know it's not the same as my LS1 but for the price you literally cannot beat it, and after selling the accessories I don't need off of the motor it will be next to nothing for a motor that is fine as is because it came out of a running and driving vehicle. It wasn't easy pulling it myself but I have more faith in a motor from a junkyard than any motor thrown together by most shops nowadays, only after you wait 6 months for them to finally give it back to you and charge you out the nose for it.
Wow. Practical. Keeping it really simple is the way to go. I gotta buddy who does swaps and turbos on OBSs and he tells me I don’t need to do all the stuff I dream of doing. Just get it in and get it running and then go from there. You said you seen too many guys turn their project into a parts car. Wow. Thanks for sharing this one.
I don't think you are stupid. I agree with most of what you said. If you use the complete engine,transmission,harness ,fuse block why do you have to reflash computer? I'm just a retired plumber but thinking about building a ls powered rat rod. There is a local guy who will reflash for $200ish.
Wish I seen this $3000 ago before I purchased complete salvaged LQ4, 4L60,and transfer case . Houston area doesn’t have a motor less than $1200. You might think about shipping them “finds”, huge market out there
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I fell into the “rebuild it” mistake after seeing bores glazed like a honey baked ham. Torn completely down, now waiting for rings and bearing. Should have installed and went for taco vacation
Coming from a guy that Ls swapped their ride , its not that bad to get it up and running . It’s after when it gets pricey, cus now you want a cam, headers , 3” full exhaust , injectors , turbo set up with fabrication & a dyno tune . Buts man it’s all so worth it 😂🔥
Hey bud got a 6.0 , 2002 want to put in my 97 Tahoe with a 5.7 VORTEC and 4L60 transmission. What do I need????? Please help??????? I’m old school bow tie.
#3. I took someone’s word and am finding I got a pile intermittent problem parts at best and anything that relied on oil was toast. Get it running stock, then modify it too so there are less unknowns.
Eat the tacos! Do some burnouts and drink some beers while watching these other guys empty their pockets and keep working on those high dollar builds 🤣🤣🤣
Great info. Time and money saving info, calling out PSI for those ass raping prices. Thank you. I just want my 86 Cutlass to run first of all. We'll put some bells and whistles on her later if needed.
I agree whole heartedly! I made an error, I bought a GM L18, 8.1 litre. For my 73 K10. The 8.1 had some Lifter noise, and came with no accessories. Just the long block, with an intake. This thing has nickel and dime'd me to death. I'm almost to where I can start it. But, I have to strip the 6.0 harness, to make it work with the 8.1. Lots of work, lots of money, everywhere, all the time. Seriously,I'm laying down $100, every week for this thing. No machine shop, no high end parts, just stock, sometimes used parts when I feel like I can. Headgaskets, valveguide seals, headbolts, headers, where it had manifolds. Even had to buy accessory brackets, they weren't there. I know it's the over-muscled, uncle to the LS. But, who doesnt like over 500 ft-lbs of torque, in a stock engine? Listen to this guy, he is smart.
$800 for a short block. Smh. I've been following you for a while, and you're right about the Machine Shop and not running 250,000 miles... I used to work in a machine shop and you wouldn't believe the "Machinist" I've seen come through the door, you're going to have five grand in a rebuild😒 you're absolutely right about GM making them correctly and if I had that kind of money to throw around there's a huge salvage yard close to where I live and they have as many 5.3 engines complete from intake to oil pan with harness that you want for $1,400 that all have less than 50,000 miles, when I was looking for one about a month ago I seen one with 11,000 miles... I don't care what anyone says that's a NEW ENGINE!! 😁 throw in some Springs and a summit cam and do burnouts until you're 80 years old. I've had less problems out of a 150,000 5.3 then you're going to have with your trusty old 350 4 bolt Main crate engine that cost as much as my entire swap with the car😂
ItsGaigeTho -.- you make a very good point at the tail end of you comment. Honestly, JR’s video here is probably the most eye opening one yet, because with the old SBC’s you needed to do all the nonsense to make it right. I have a little over 30k miles on my trucks rebuild, and it’s been nothing but problems, and there’s more brewing on the horizon. @The Driveway Engineer JR, do you have any information on running a manual transmission behind an LS, specifically the early NV4500 from 92-94. These were external slave cylinder setups, and the transmission is much newer than the engine, and I bought the truck because it was a factory 5 speed.
It just bolts up, use the flywheel to match the engine and clutch to match the trans. Newer engines use the thicker 06 style flywheel,99-00 use a 99-00 flywheel Doesn't matter where the slave is.
I follow most of what you said besides getting the block or heads machined. Sure you can not have it machined but it all depends on your build, if you do go to get anything machined go to a reputable shop. Ask around at the drag strip if you're going local that'll give you a good idea as to what machine shop doesn't hire fuckwits.
@@jeremycribb4696 I've been researching my '00 6.0 to '92 NV4500 combo swap for my Jeep for a while now, and you will have to have the bell housing specific to the '92-'95 trans because they changed the bell housing-to-case bolt pattern for '96 & up. There is also an issue with bell housing-to-block bolt pattern. The LS uses the top center bolt and eliminates the top passenger bolt from the block, but the older bell housing for the '92-95 don't have the top center bolt hole. There may be a need to drill and tap a blind hole in the block for the top passenger bell housing bolt. At that point, JR is right, flywheel for the motor and clutch for the trans.
Hey there, Mister Driveway Engineer. I've been watching with rapt fascination as my mechanic just convinced me that swapping in a mildly cammed 300hp LS would cost the same as replacing the stout little 22re in my beloved 94 Toyota truck. (Feeling a bit guilty since it was such a tough and scrappy little thing) Anyway, I was wondering if it's possible to use the short car intake on a truck block that normally uses that huge high-rise intake. Not a lot of room in a mini truck. Thanks!
Whats funny is when you look at LS swap videos (64 impala ) on the tube , in the comments theres ALWAYS some one that says " whered you mount your fuel pump " ,..
I need 500hp vortac 5.3 truck engine daily driver supercharged or Turbo which is more reliable City driving occasionally burnouts occasionally going fast on the highway, can you help with that
Analysis paralysis I think I’m there!!!trying to make INFORMED decisions, one video says just a spacer to bolt a th350 to ls. Only what you didn’t say was BOP th350 won’t just bolt up to LS. Another video says you wouldn’t use a th350 for anything street car???? I already flashed my ecu for vats delete and old school trans and now I need to buy a 4L80 for my swap to drive street???
If it's a higher mileage motor, they're likely gapped enough anyway. Realistically, it depends on how much boost you want to run. Watch this video where this guy shows the stock gap on a 200k engine at .026+: th-cam.com/video/SqtnaivizJ8/w-d-xo.html
If it's literally your first engine swap you should make it run before you worry about any of that other stuff. Also, I've never even looked at the gaps and they seem fine up to 15 psi
I wouldn't pay a lot more for a 6.0. For me, they're the same price, and both are easy to find. I'd run a 4.8 right now today if I could get a complete one for 300, versus waiting another 2 or 3 months to spend 1k on a 6.0
I respect what your doing brother. Appreciate the no bullshit delivery as well 👍 I have an ls swap I want to do on an old s10 blazer and being in Canada you may have just saved me a few thousand because I really wanted that fancy looking sheet metal intake an other unnecessary shit but you have talked me out of it. Biggest problem I'm having is finding a decent 5 or 6 speed transmission to go behind it. The info on those is a tornado of misinformation and inconsistent information......
Enjoyed the video, pretty solid. Swap in a basically stocker then go to the junkyard and pull another engine and build a engine for the goals you want. After it's done throw it in and let er rip. PS. don't buy a turbo kit if you go that route. You can make your own for a lot less. even less if you weld it. You can find cheap lincoln/hobart/etc welders at pawnshops every once in awhile for under $150. It'll be enough to weld piping. Learning to weld will save you a shit ton of money in the future. It also opens up so many doors that are now possible to your project. If you're good with your junkyard ask if you can have some scrap metal to learn welding and they might just give you some.
You hit the nail square on the head with the crowd coming from the older small blocks, that's me man. I'm new to the ls world and love my original small blocks but the stock factory power of these ls engines is undeniable. My 4x4 Tahoe hauls ass for its size and weight hell I'll admit it way faster than my old 76 RWD Jimmy with 350hp 350 ft/lbs .
@@TheDrivewayEngineer That is funny. I guess I will be looking for another wire harness company. Wiring Specialties is crazy expensive so they are out.
If you get one for 2k it's an okay deal. Aka- not worth it. If you're considering a 6.2, spend less than half the money and get a 6.0 and a free VVT delete. So you're down 50 horsepower if you stay NA... not a big deal. Not worth another $1k+
Repetition facilitates learning and being internet territory with new persons diving in...important/need to know info is helpful to shortcut indecisive thoughts
Hate to say but if it spins it win is not always true. I pulled one out of the local yard this past summer that did spin fine but, once home pulled the pan off just for a quick check I could walk the main bearings in circles with caps still on. So lesson learned pull the pan off to see what you have before you leave.
Your faith is nice, but misplaced. I am a GM/dealer/engineer/fan but they are made no better than 50 years ago. They go 300k miles now because of overdrive and better lubricants. The engine turns half the RPM its entire life using much better lubricants. That's it. Went from 125/150k miles to 250/350k for those two reasons and nothing more or less. As far as assembly, they are just as sloppy and subject to union worker vagaries as ever. Materials are no better and sometimes even inferior. Those facts being observed, everything else is correct; buy it, bolt it and run it.
Just bought my first LS of fb marketplace....2003 LM7 complete with harness, air box, and the dreaded 4L60e already pulled from the truck. Guy took video of truck running just before stripping truck down. $400 for everything. I forgot I needed the throttle pedal. He's pulling it out of the old cab for me and said I can get it when in the area. Feel like I stole this thing!
Nope I am a beginner I love cars and I'm hoping to learn how to do this so that I can make a living at it I'm restoring 80s Firebirds and want to put these engines under the hood
I wonder how long these engines will run under normal conditions. Everything is eventually bound to just ware out but under normal driving I think these engines will do at least 500000mi. I worked as a Paramedic from 2004 until 2016. The company I worked for ran medium duty International trucks when I started in 2007 they bought a brand new fleet of 4500 GMC cutaways with duramax and allison transmissions. In 2010 when tir 4 emissions hit and the new trucks where going to require DEF they started buying Chevrolet chassis with the 6.0 gas and 6 speed transmission. I drove the trucks day in and day out the gas engines performed just as well as the diesels . The trucks weighed around 13000lbs and always got driven like a bat out hell. The trucks where remounted between 250000 and 300000 miles. None where ever blown up or had burnt up transmissions that I know of gas or diesel. The only trade off was the gas engines got 9 mpg and the diesels got 13 you had to stop for fuel more often. Being in a rural area we put on a lot of miles sometimes as much as 400 or 500 in a 24 hr shift. According to the fleet director running the gas truck was cheaper even with the added cost of fuel. The chassis was $10000 less with the gas and all the mantinence was cheaper. I have always been exclusively GM but this experience sold be on the ls engines. I bought a 2011 SS camaro with the 6.2 and automatic. I have about 94000 miles on it now and have driven it all over the country I put most of the miles on 1 to 2 thousand per trip. I have never done anything to it but mantanice. I plan to keep it the rest of my life. It is a great time in history to be a hotrroder.
You’re exactly right ! I’m the old sbc guy and was intimidated about ls fi , wiring & tuning , after binge watching your videos it looks extremely easy . I’m ready for a swap . Thanks for all your info. New Subscriber !
Just discovered the channel. I'm getting ready to take a crack at bringing home a running ls. Hoping to snag an L9H but we'll have to see if it's still around.
as always makes sense wish i found your channel before i bought my stuff. what are the truck injectors described as when ordering the harness i am slightly confused?
luckily mine sees more than 3,000 RPMs on a regular basis and it drives down the road pulling a car trailer with a race car in it there's no replacement for displacement for all you people out there that don't understand that that means you either put nitrous on that motor or you put turbos on it or you do like I did which this guy doesn't like I had the money I plan on keeping this 2001 Chevy for the rest of my life so I rebuilt the 6 l it made it into a 6.7 l for all of those that are uncapable of doing math there's 408 cubic inches from 364 this guy is spot on on how to put engines in vehicles that never had an LS base platform or anything that ran on electronic fuel injection cuz it wasn't shortly after they came out with this LS engine all the rest of the places all stepped up and built New motors first doesn't always make it the best but they last like a Chevy should
Jr, one item I'd like to add based on my 2005 suburban that we have had since May 2005. The only thing I will do to any LS motor I swap will be to drop the pan, and put a new oil pump pickup o-ring on. My suburban has developed the dreaded low oil pressure at initial startup...but because it is a 4x4, it is a pain to fix with the motor in the truck. Now, if you have a simpler solution for that, I'm interested. As always, another great vid and thanks for sharing the knowledge. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, your wife, and family.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Yeah, a few months ago I faced the decision to 5.3 my 86 C10, or drop a "good" 90 tbi 350 in to replace the tbi swapped 305. I chose...poorly, and went with the "easier" sbc. It smoke like a freight train. 5.3 swap starts in Jan.
The sensei of junkyard ls swaps
JR is o so right just get I in and running and you can waste your money latter on. The cost of building a small block chevy to just match a 5.3 ls motor stock hp is just nuts or your just waste full with your money. 500 hp at Rear wheel is more power then most people can even Handel depending on what ya put it in. JR thank you for posting your awesome knowledge on these ls change over you are so helpful is awesome. Thanks JR keep them C10 wheels burning nice job.
Wish I would've watched this video a long time ago, I bought a used LS1 off of facebook for a swap a couple years ago and spent $1,800 because it had a fast intake manifold and a cam so I thought it was worth it at the time but didn't know anything about LS motors. Turns out it had 862 heads and a truck oil pan with no pickup tube in it, and it was missing all the accessories and sensors so I'm well over $4k into that motor after taking it to a machine shop and put it together correctly. Learned my lesson after that one and went to the junkyard this past weekend and pulled a whole motor out of an early 2000s tahoe and have literally everything, I even snuck the torque converter out with me and it was barely over $200 at pick n pull. I know it's not the same as my LS1 but for the price you literally cannot beat it, and after selling the accessories I don't need off of the motor it will be next to nothing for a motor that is fine as is because it came out of a running and driving vehicle. It wasn't easy pulling it myself but I have more faith in a motor from a junkyard than any motor thrown together by most shops nowadays, only after you wait 6 months for them to finally give it back to you and charge you out the nose for it.
I'm sorry to hear you had to learn that lesson the hard way.
I have too.
Hopefully others will see this and maybe consider it.
Wow. Practical. Keeping it really simple is the way to go. I gotta buddy who does swaps and turbos on OBSs and he tells me I don’t need to do all the stuff I dream of doing. Just get it in and get it running and then go from there. You said you seen too many guys turn their project into a parts car. Wow. Thanks for sharing this one.
Go to the junkyard, get a complete engine, get it in and get it running, do some burnouts and eat some tacos.
Don't forget the Crue cassette
Exactly.
Sounds good to me!...but I like clean engines so off to the machine shop for me!...
@@CadillacWaltz nope, Laaz Rockit !!
That sums it up.
I can confirm what you said is what I learned in the last few years in the school of hard knocks. Thanks
I don't think you are stupid. I agree with most of what you said. If you use the complete engine,transmission,harness ,fuse block why do you have to reflash computer? I'm just a retired plumber but thinking about building a ls powered rat rod. There is a local guy who will reflash for $200ish.
You have to eliminate the antitheft.
The computer looks for a signal from the body module, if it doesn't see it, it cuts off fuel
"This has nothing, and you need everything".... 😂😂😂 Perfect
Great video. I'm getting ready to swap in a 94 Silverado
Wish I seen this $3000 ago before I purchased complete salvaged LQ4, 4L60,and transfer case . Houston area doesn’t have a motor less than $1200. You might think about shipping them “finds”, huge market out there
I'm perfectly happy working my normal job lol.
You could have taken a great vacation for 3k though
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I fell into the “rebuild it” mistake after seeing bores glazed like a honey baked ham. Torn completely down, now waiting for rings and bearing.
Should have installed and went for taco vacation
These swaps are too popular. Nothing in east texas under 1500 and trannys all seem to be 4wd. I'd sure like to see a video that deals with that
There are videos out there on converting 4wd trans to 2wd. Remove everything from the case, change tailshaft, then reassemble basically
@@shawnwimberly9294 that’s great, but when to have a 4wd Jeep then what?
Wise words master yoda of the LS world im digging the content👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I traded a carbureted 350 out of my project car for a running and driving Chevy express! 6.0 and 4l80 score, Swap video coming soon!
Dam how?😂
Romero traded it to a guy who likes to derby, in a way we both benefited from it because he had no use for the van
Simplicity oh I see well shit great deal
Yeah, I sold my 406 to someone with a C10 and funded my entire swap lol
I would LOVE to do that
Really helpful stuff. Thanks JR.
Great channel and videos. Maybe try using the full screen slideshow mode when masking these PowerPoint videos. Content is great.
A reliable budget 400 whp NA possible with 5.3/6.0? What would you need ?
Words of wisdom right there children. .........
Coming from a guy that Ls swapped their ride , its not that bad to get it up and running . It’s after when it gets pricey, cus now you want a cam, headers , 3” full exhaust , injectors , turbo set up with fabrication & a dyno tune . Buts man it’s all so worth it 😂🔥
we only get the aluminium ones in aus 5.7 lt mostly. thats why we have no truck manifolds
Awesome vid! My type of honest realistic talk!!!
This is what I needed to hear.
Like the content, keep it coming. Real ****!
Great video I'm doing a swap in a 63 impala what's a good cam for this heavy car it's a 5.3 tremec 5 speed 355 rear gear
Asking what camshaft is best for your 5.3 is next level trolling for sure.
"Don't let that be you because I will roast you!" you too funny, man
Hey bud got a 6.0 , 2002 want to put in my 97 Tahoe with a 5.7 VORTEC and 4L60 transmission. What do I need????? Please help???????
I’m old school bow tie.
Depends on the flexplate you have, watch th-cam.com/video/pJbCYRTvpKY/w-d-xo.html
just found and subscribed, great vids and info,, thanks and have a merry Christmas and wonderful new year to you and yours
#3. I took someone’s word and am finding I got a pile intermittent problem parts at best and anything that relied on oil was toast. Get it running stock, then modify it too so there are less unknowns.
This has all been great info and has helped me In My swap. Now if only I can fix this trans not shifting issue!
He gives great advice and he hit the nail right on the head .for first time engine swapping. Like he said keep it simple stupid
250,000 miles ha ha ha my 04 Silverado has 480,000 on it and still going strong second 4l60e tho nothing done to motor but basic maintenance
300k on my 4.8l 03 Yukon SLT been to Florida to Vegas in it with same 4l60 on 24inch wheels still rolling in the deep!...GMC/BOWTIES RULE!!!
Eat the tacos! Do some burnouts and drink some beers while watching these other guys empty their pockets and keep working on those high dollar builds 🤣🤣🤣
Great info. Time and money saving info, calling out PSI for those ass raping prices. Thank you. I just want my 86 Cutlass to run first of all. We'll put some bells and whistles on her later if needed.
I agree whole heartedly!
I made an error, I bought a GM L18, 8.1 litre. For my 73 K10.
The 8.1 had some Lifter noise, and came with no accessories. Just the long block, with an intake.
This thing has nickel and dime'd me to death.
I'm almost to where I can start it. But, I have to strip the 6.0 harness, to make it work with the 8.1.
Lots of work, lots of money, everywhere, all the time.
Seriously,I'm laying down $100, every week for this thing. No machine shop, no high end parts, just stock, sometimes used parts when I feel like I can. Headgaskets, valveguide seals, headbolts, headers, where it had manifolds. Even had to buy accessory brackets, they weren't there. I know it's the over-muscled, uncle to the LS. But, who doesnt like over 500 ft-lbs of torque, in a stock engine?
Listen to this guy, he is smart.
$800 for a short block. Smh. I've been following you for a while, and you're right about the Machine Shop and not running 250,000 miles... I used to work in a machine shop and you wouldn't believe the "Machinist" I've seen come through the door, you're going to have five grand in a rebuild😒 you're absolutely right about GM making them correctly and if I had that kind of money to throw around there's a huge salvage yard close to where I live and they have as many 5.3 engines complete from intake to oil pan with harness that you want for $1,400 that all have less than 50,000 miles, when I was looking for one about a month ago I seen one with 11,000 miles... I don't care what anyone says that's a NEW ENGINE!! 😁 throw in some Springs and a summit cam and do burnouts until you're 80 years old. I've had less problems out of a 150,000 5.3 then you're going to have with your trusty old 350 4 bolt Main crate engine that cost as much as my entire swap with the car😂
ItsGaigeTho -.- you make a very good point at the tail end of you comment.
Honestly, JR’s video here is probably the most eye opening one yet, because with the old SBC’s you needed to do all the nonsense to make it right. I have a little over 30k miles on my trucks rebuild, and it’s been nothing but problems, and there’s more brewing on the horizon.
@The Driveway Engineer
JR, do you have any information on running a manual transmission behind an LS, specifically the early NV4500 from 92-94. These were external slave cylinder setups, and the transmission is much newer than the engine, and I bought the truck because it was a factory 5 speed.
It just bolts up, use the flywheel to match the engine and clutch to match the trans. Newer engines use the thicker 06 style flywheel,99-00 use a 99-00 flywheel
Doesn't matter where the slave is.
I follow most of what you said besides getting the block or heads machined. Sure you can not have it machined but it all depends on your build, if you do go to get anything machined go to a reputable shop. Ask around at the drag strip if you're going local that'll give you a good idea as to what machine shop doesn't hire fuckwits.
@@jeremycribb4696 I've been researching my '00 6.0 to '92 NV4500 combo swap for my Jeep for a while now, and you will have to have the bell housing specific to the '92-'95 trans because they changed the bell housing-to-case bolt pattern for '96 & up. There is also an issue with bell housing-to-block bolt pattern. The LS uses the top center bolt and eliminates the top passenger bolt from the block, but the older bell housing for the '92-95 don't have the top center bolt hole. There may be a need to drill and tap a blind hole in the block for the top passenger bell housing bolt. At that point, JR is right, flywheel for the motor and clutch for the trans.
Whats the name and location of the yard near you?
Hey there, Mister Driveway Engineer. I've been watching with rapt fascination as my mechanic just convinced me that swapping in a mildly cammed 300hp LS would cost the same as replacing the stout little 22re in my beloved 94 Toyota truck. (Feeling a bit guilty since it was such a tough and scrappy little thing) Anyway, I was wondering if it's possible to use the short car intake on a truck block that normally uses that huge high-rise intake. Not a lot of room in a mini truck. Thanks!
You can use the car intake on a truck engine, you have to relocate the idler to do so, ICT Billet and Dirty Dingo both make relocation brackets
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Thanks! You're the best!
ten tacos!? ten beers!? hot damn,pipe that into ur turbo and get 1000hp at the pavement!
Whats funny is when you look at LS swap videos (64 impala ) on the tube , in the comments theres ALWAYS some one that says " whered you mount your fuel pump " ,..
I'm a new subscriber. Thanks fpr the encouragement. Not very handy, but willing to try.
Disabled projects do become parts projects. Keep em mobile and fun. LS engines are machine shops worst enemy.
I need 500hp vortac 5.3 truck engine daily driver supercharged or Turbo which is more reliable City driving occasionally burnouts occasionally going fast on the highway, can you help with that
Dude you and the guys in the FB page have been a huge help. This is my first ls swap
Love your videos Brother, you just spoke right to me. Thanks Marty
I love the comedy that comes out of Jr🤣🤣
What is the best way to find a donor vehicle for cheap
I'll be doing that video over the hollidays, keep an eye out
I done it ounce already start to finish for under 2k and had to swap the rear axle and build a suspension and a fuel system on my second build now
Analysis paralysis I think I’m there!!!trying to make INFORMED decisions, one video says just a spacer to bolt a th350 to ls. Only what you didn’t say was BOP th350 won’t just bolt up to LS. Another video says you wouldn’t use a th350 for anything street car???? I already flashed my ecu for vats delete and old school trans and now I need to buy a 4L80 for my swap to drive street???
Love your content keep it coming
First of all liked your video dude, the harness what is the name of the company and is it plug and play?
another great video with common sense advice.
Great advice.
Quick question: So a Drive train upgrade wouldn't be necessary even if its different because u- joints should still fit right?
Every case is different, it depends wildly on your platform and the mounts you use.
U joints are easy they make cross joints for about every different common sizes
I want to do an sn95 3.8 swap to 4.6 gt or LS
@@bamadave1983
As long as the length doesn't change. If it does, then you need a shaft.
Good show
Shouldnt you at least open the ring gaps if u go turbo?
Yes
If it's a higher mileage motor, they're likely gapped enough anyway. Realistically, it depends on how much boost you want to run. Watch this video where this guy shows the stock gap on a 200k engine at .026+: th-cam.com/video/SqtnaivizJ8/w-d-xo.html
If it's literally your first engine swap you should make it run before you worry about any of that other stuff.
Also, I've never even looked at the gaps and they seem fine up to 15 psi
Great video brother
Good shit always watchin ur videos so i can do the same appreciate it
on point per usual
Do you think it’s worth it to buy a 6.0 over a 5.3? Price is always so much more with the 6.0.
I wouldn't pay a lot more for a 6.0. For me, they're the same price, and both are easy to find.
I'd run a 4.8 right now today if I could get a complete one for 300, versus waiting another 2 or 3 months to spend 1k on a 6.0
The Driveway Engineer I gotcha yeah they are pretty pricey up this way lol ok cool cam springs-burnouts and tacos?
I respect what your doing brother. Appreciate the no bullshit delivery as well 👍 I have an ls swap I want to do on an old s10 blazer and being in Canada you may have just saved me a few thousand because I really wanted that fancy looking sheet metal intake an other unnecessary shit but you have talked me out of it. Biggest problem I'm having is finding a decent 5 or 6 speed transmission to go behind it. The info on those is a tornado of misinformation and inconsistent information......
Enjoyed the video, pretty solid. Swap in a basically stocker then go to the junkyard and pull another engine and build a engine for the goals you want. After it's done throw it in and let er rip. PS. don't buy a turbo kit if you go that route. You can make your own for a lot less. even less if you weld it. You can find cheap lincoln/hobart/etc welders at pawnshops every once in awhile for under $150. It'll be enough to weld piping. Learning to weld will save you a shit ton of money in the future. It also opens up so many doors that are now possible to your project. If you're good with your junkyard ask if you can have some scrap metal to learn welding and they might just give you some.
Very informative video for someone who is looking at swapping an ls , good advice crank up Motley Crüe hang with your dog and eat 10 tacos 👍👍
the guys that talk crap about junkyard builds are just the idiots who like to blow their cash and show off like theyre richer than they really are
For a lot of people, telling people how much they spent, all casual like, is the actual goal of the build lol.
You hit the nail square on the head with the crowd coming from the older small blocks, that's me man.
I'm new to the ls world and love my original small blocks but the stock factory power of these ls engines is undeniable. My 4x4 Tahoe hauls ass for its size and weight hell I'll admit it way faster than my old 76 RWD Jimmy with 350hp 350 ft/lbs .
PSI harness website says "All PSI Harnesses are Made in the USA." Have they changed from being made over in China?
If you look at their address right below that, and pull it up on Google Street view...
It's a comic book store 😂
@@TheDrivewayEngineer That is funny. I guess I will be looking for another wire harness company. Wiring Specialties is crazy expensive so they are out.
@@nkcwilliams if you want a truly American product with support, look at BP Automotive.
Decent price for what you get, great support
I love your vids! To the point and so very practical!
What is a reasonable price for a 6.2? Do anybody know?
More than I'm willing to pay
If you get one for 2k it's an okay deal.
Aka- not worth it. If you're considering a 6.2, spend less than half the money and get a 6.0 and a free VVT delete. So you're down 50 horsepower if you stay NA... not a big deal. Not worth another $1k+
Wise words...
With 200,000 miles it may not be required because the gaps have opened over time. "It ain’t not 350 four bolt main. Shooooooot!"
When your running low on content repeat what you said 3 months ago it's not your hemi cuda
Repetition facilitates learning and being internet territory with new persons diving in...important/need to know info is helpful to shortcut indecisive thoughts
You could just leave, that's always an option. 🤷🏾♂️
Just do it and let me go eat my ten tacos and beers in peace
Hate to say but if it spins it win is not always true. I pulled one out of the local yard this past summer that did spin fine but, once home pulled the pan off just for a quick check I could walk the main bearings in circles with caps still on. So lesson learned pull the pan off to see what you have before you leave.
I like my odds
Dale Smith
Like your straight forward advice. Thanks good information
Had me rolling!!. 75 lbs of the nose sure be nice!
Your faith is nice, but misplaced. I am a GM/dealer/engineer/fan but they are made no better than 50 years ago. They go 300k miles now because of overdrive and better lubricants. The engine turns half the RPM its entire life using much better lubricants. That's it. Went from 125/150k miles to 250/350k for those two reasons and nothing more or less. As far as assembly, they are just as sloppy and subject to union worker vagaries as ever. Materials are no better and sometimes even inferior.
Those facts being observed, everything else is correct; buy it, bolt it and run it.
truth!
Do less!, Do less! What are you doing? I told you do less... don't do anything!
Ok well now you're doing anything, you gotta do something...
👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
💯
Church!
good stuff - tks
Never buy Chinese
I like this guy👆
Just bought my first LS of fb marketplace....2003 LM7 complete with harness, air box, and the dreaded 4L60e already pulled from the truck. Guy took video of truck running just before stripping truck down. $400 for everything. I forgot I needed the throttle pedal. He's pulling it out of the old cab for me and said I can get it when in the area. Feel like I stole this thing!
that is super steal.
@ikenbomb! I ended up making money after selling all the parts I didn't want to use.
JR, I love your honest common sense approach towards doing a swap. Working towards my first, and you have been a huge help. Thanks!
Nope I am a beginner I love cars and I'm hoping to learn how to do this so that I can make a living at it I'm restoring 80s Firebirds and want to put these engines under the hood
I wonder how long these engines will run under normal conditions. Everything is eventually bound to just ware out but under normal driving I think these engines will do at least 500000mi. I worked as a Paramedic from 2004 until 2016. The company I worked for ran medium duty International trucks when I started in 2007 they bought a brand new fleet of 4500 GMC cutaways with duramax and allison transmissions. In 2010 when tir 4 emissions hit and the new trucks where going to require DEF they started buying Chevrolet chassis with the 6.0 gas and 6 speed transmission. I drove the trucks day in and day out the gas engines performed just as well as the diesels . The trucks weighed around 13000lbs and always got driven like a bat out hell. The trucks where remounted between 250000 and 300000 miles. None where ever blown up or had burnt up transmissions that I know of gas or diesel. The only trade off was the gas engines got 9 mpg and the diesels got 13 you had to stop for fuel more often. Being in a rural area we put on a lot of miles sometimes as much as 400 or 500 in a 24 hr shift. According to the fleet director running the gas truck was cheaper even with the added cost of fuel. The chassis was $10000 less with the gas and all the mantinence was cheaper. I have always been exclusively GM but this experience sold be on the ls engines. I bought a 2011 SS camaro with the 6.2 and automatic. I have about 94000 miles on it now and have driven it all over the country I put most of the miles on 1 to 2 thousand per trip. I have never done anything to it but mantanice. I plan to keep it the rest of my life. It is a great time in history to be a hotrroder.
You’re exactly right ! I’m the old sbc guy and was intimidated about ls
fi , wiring & tuning , after binge watching your videos it looks extremely easy . I’m ready for a swap . Thanks for all your info.
New Subscriber !
The Chinese can make potatoes grow on the moon they can making wires go from A to B😂😭💀
Lmao “I’m gonna roast you!” That’s great I love your honesty!
Love this channel
😂 ON FUCKING POINT!
Right on
Sounds like this is geared toward me. And my turdbox.
Love to hear ya give um hell fixen to ls swap my 94 c1500 thinking 4.8 4l60 reaching for Dailey that will turn a tire thanks for all your knowledge
Just discovered the channel. I'm getting ready to take a crack at bringing home a running ls. Hoping to snag an L9H but we'll have to see if it's still around.
Great video information as always thanks Jr.
as always makes sense wish i found your channel before i bought my stuff. what are the truck injectors described as when ordering the harness i am slightly confused?
Multitec 2
@@TheDrivewayEngineer thank you
luckily mine sees more than 3,000 RPMs on a regular basis and it drives down the road pulling a car trailer with a race car in it there's no replacement for displacement for all you people out there that don't understand that that means you either put nitrous on that motor or you put turbos on it or you do like I did which this guy doesn't like I had the money I plan on keeping this 2001 Chevy for the rest of my life so I rebuilt the 6 l it made it into a 6.7 l for all of those that are uncapable of doing math there's 408 cubic inches from 364 this guy is spot on on how to put engines in vehicles that never had an LS base platform or anything that ran on electronic fuel injection cuz it wasn't shortly after they came out with this LS engine all the rest of the places all stepped up and built New motors first doesn't always make it the best but they last like a Chevy should
I like that you keep getting on here yammering about no replacement for displacement, then literally listing the replacements for displacement 😂
Do you have a list or vid to ID by vin what engine is in said donor....I had thought I'd seen one you done but can't find it ...thx much Tim
The 8th digit is the engine code, I usually just Google it in the junkyard
As a machinist I knew you were legit when you started talking about gd&t and tolerance stack ups. Your speaking my language
Your a smart man Sir...keep it simple is the way to go. Love the channel.
Thanks for the notation
Jr, one item I'd like to add based on my 2005 suburban that we have had since May 2005. The only thing I will do to any LS motor I swap will be to drop the pan, and put a new oil pump pickup o-ring on. My suburban has developed the dreaded low oil pressure at initial startup...but because it is a 4x4, it is a pain to fix with the motor in the truck. Now, if you have a simpler solution for that, I'm interested. As always, another great vid and thanks for sharing the knowledge. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, your wife, and family.
I do the oil pump oring as well
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Yeah, a few months ago I faced the decision to 5.3 my 86 C10, or drop a "good" 90 tbi 350 in to replace the tbi swapped 305. I chose...poorly, and went with the "easier" sbc. It smoke like a freight train. 5.3 swap starts in Jan.
I quit using machine shops years ago. It got so bad that I couldn't even get brake rotors turned that wouldn't chatter.
There's good ones out there, but they charge like they're good too lol.
Which is fine, they deserve it, but for what I'm doing, no way