The Controversy About African Fabrics
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Who knew African fabrics could be controversial! In this video, I will go over several different controversies that were brought up when I showed you my shopping haul of these Ankara fabric with their bright colors and bold designs. I give you my views on these controversies and hope that you will join the conversation and let me know what you think.
Here is the video that brought up the controversies:
How to Use African Fabrics for Quilting
• How to Use African Fab...
Here is where I bought this fabric:
Fabric Wholesale Direct
fabricwholesal...
One of the commenters recommended this source:
House of Mami Wata
houseofmamiwat...
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Shelina Virjee at Quilt and Color provides a variety of quilting videos, including interviews, tutorials, discussions, and fun patterns.
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Here is the video that brought up the controversies:
How to Use African Fabrics for Quilting
th-cam.com/video/9SzHUftkWm8/w-d-xo.html
imho, "cultural appropriation" divides people. Using other cultures' fabrics, clothing, & other items is a high form of appreciation and admiration for that culture.
I agree, people shoudl be respectful of other people's cultures, I would consider it a compiment for cultures to use things from other cultures. People make WAY too big of a deal about EVERYTHING now. Makes everything really stressful. IMHO.
@@paulaneary7877 not all cultures consider it a compliment to use their designs, but as these were designed by
African women and made in Hiolland, I would think that they would be happy to see their designs used
Do you know the origin of sukiyaki? The whole world is Sukiyaki!! Get over the 'some cultures' propaganda.
buying a fabric designed by another culture is not cultural appropriation.
I have minimal patience for the vitriol surrounding "cultural appropriation". Frankly, it is a stick for people with extreme views to beat more moderate people into extremism. Shaming is not a social tool, it is a cult tool. respectful enjoyment of other cultures is core to the human experience.
Wow! Lovely video! Thanks for posting it.
I appreciate your thoughtful sharing about the many aspects of African fabrics. I was aware of some of it from friends who married Africans.
Thank you, Cece! That is wonderful that you can get information straight from the source!
Thank you so much.
You're welcome! I am glad you enjoyed it.
I purchased “African” fabric about 18 years ago. The shop owner told me it was printed in Holland. Good report.
That is great that you were able to get questions answered. The fabric is printed both in Holland and in Africa. Do you remember if the prices comparable to quilting cotton?
@@shelina_virjee it's been so long, I don't remember how much I paid. It was a lot more than quilting cotton.
Thanks for explaining this topic and I admire your research and sincere desire to be inclusive of all. Ooh, thanks for mentioning me!😊 Looking forward to the December sew-along ❤🎉
Thank you, Saira! It is a fascinating but sad story. You're quite welcome. I am looking forward to December too!
Beautiful fabric is beautiful fabric. How can there be controversy? I love it.
Thank you, Pink Sprinkle, I love it too!
In South Africa it is known as shwe shwe. And it is well loved. The black people will sometimes make a whole outfit from it - headscarf, jacket and skirt. It looks absolutely gorgeous. I have bought some to add to a denim skirt. You have to wash it in very hot water to get the starch out. One of the factories that makes it in South Africa is Da Gama Fabrics. And this is called Three Cats Shwe Shwe. It Is not very wide though. Only abou 90cm. But the come in gorgeous colors and patterns
Thank you for this information! I didn't realize that this fabric looks like shwe shwe. Are you in South Africa As more people get exposed to production techniques and designs of other cultures, there is often blending. Originally shwe shwe was indigo and used a printing technique, but I know it is available in other colors now too. And the Ankara fabric was originally wax block prints, and now they use a printing technique too. From my distance and inexperience, I don't really know how to tell them apart.
I feel like the cultural approbation controversy is to erase parts of the cultures being appropriated. If no one buys products from the artists and producers they have to stop making them. If other people admire their arts the more likely it is for the future generations of that culture to admire them as well.
Thank you so much for this interesting video.
I buy scraps of what I had previously referred to as African fabrics, and might now refer to as ‘African Fabrics’ from tailors in Africa that a friend brings back from trips there. I use them in bags, quilts and wall hangings. I use them because I love the colours and I try not to waste any material. I also use old tablecloths, old curtains and old clothing - often my husband’s shirts that have gone through at the cuffs and beyond repair jeans. I do it partly to keep costs down and partly to reduce the carbon footprint of the textile industry by preventing cotton, and cotton type fabrics going into landfill.
That is great that you get fabrics from tailors that you can use in your projects. Avoid waste is great!🌍
It seems like we have been standing on the shoulders of other people for as long as we have been a people. I don’t know if that is wrong. Sharing ideas is also a way of bringing people together. It is a shame though when something beautiful and meaningful becomes mass produced and cheaply made or in a way hijacked to the point where the origin is lost. We can sometimes recognize these products and avoid buying them. We can also try to pass on the origin of the art along with the idea much like you are doing. It is complicated and there will be many different thoughts on the subject.
Thank you for this very interesting video. There is so much to learn. I love the sentiment that the fabrics get along and it is symbolic of universal peace that can happen. It is a wonderful example of unity and diversity.
You're welcome. So many issues to consider. Universal peace in terms of fabric is the only thing that is within my power.
This is an excellent explanation 👍👍 The "issue" might be avoided by calling them "African print fabrics" instead of "African fabrics", but even then people will get upset since that's what people like to do on the internet. The irony is that the people who get upset about these kinds of things are often the same people whose concept of Africa is that it's one big West African country where everybody speaks Swahili and wears kente cloth. Your hesitance to use a name from one language - basically ignoring the existence of the others - is totally understandable.
Well done video. I sew garments. I was worried about cultural appropriation, but feel that I have been encouraged to use Ankara, as long as I'm not using something that has a traditional meaning. Several of the black sewists on social media host events like Ankara month or challenges where you make something designed by black designers. They want their art to be successful and appreciated, which means seeking a wider audience. FYI, my go to for Ankara is House of Mami Wata. I stay away from Kente cloth because that does feel like cultural appropriation. African-American owned fabric stores are rare. In the last few years, we've lost the beautiful store, Melanated Fabrics. So yes, let's send them some love! Respect.
I agree with Kente cloth. It does look like the cloth itself has special meaning. That looks like a great source, thank you for sharing that. They are in the U.S. I haven't seen these designs. Here's the link House of Mami Wata
houseofmamiwata.com/collections/ankara-fabrics-2
I will add it to the video description too, so it doesn't get lost among the comments.
Shelina, I learn so much from your videos like this. I appreciate how respectful and inclusive you want to be. I looked for the link to where you bought the fabric but didn't see it in the description box. I was so impressed with the quilt you made, the gorgeous, vibrant fabrics in the video and your thoughtfulness and respectful demeanor in the original video. I will need to go back and look there for fabric source. I haven't sewn garments in years but would love a couple caftans made out of this type of vibrant colorful fabric to wear during the soon to arrive winter moody weather days. Your channel brings me joy and I love the mini vacations you take me on. 🤓 Looking forward to fifteen minutes of sewing with everyone in December. And...love your haircut. Have a wonderful day. Thanks for another great video!
Thank you! These fabrics are so vibrant and gorgeous, even with their history. I have added the fabric source to the description box. Thanks for your patience.
I think you are right on. Thanks for explaining , i love learning about different cultures . We are all so unique and everyone has their own talents that we can share with others. Peace on earth!!
Thank you, Marcia! I love learning about different cultures too. Peace on earth! 🌍
Great explanation of the fabric history Shelina . Such beautiful fabric😊
Thank you, April! 😊It really is.
I have made two African quilts. One was gifted to an African friend and one to an Anfrican AMerican friend. They loved them.
This beautiful fabric represents an African sensibility, made by Africans, for Africans. It makes sense to me that we call it African.
Thanks for this discussion. If we all treated each other better, and shared the wealth of the world more, we could feel so much better using these ethnic designs. I thought we were on the way to celebrating everyone, and enjoying the richness of the variety of talents contributed. Why did everything get so icky and uncomfortable? Because of the backwards people who refuse to go forward! I LOVE beautiful printed fabric, but have backed off of using a lot of it if it felt too ethnic, and maybe would upset someone because I used it without being entitled to it. I hope we will recover from this era, and again start moving towards each other with acceptance, love, and celebration!
So does not using them means we should not use Irish, Scotch, Polylnesian, etc. also? Get real ladies! We all like to show off our heritage!
Thank you for educating me on the types of Africa fabric. The colors are beautiful.🦩
This was really informative. Thanks
I also appreciate your honesty that you didn’t know what the working conditions were. I’m curious if the manufacturing information is on the selvage like some brands.
Thank you J! Most of them don't have any names on them. I don't research the brands of any of the other products I buy either, and they (including American ones) might also be guilty of wrongdoing without my knowledge.
@@shelina_virjee I haven’t either. When you brought it up, I realized that it wasn’t even on my radar. I think I’ll start looking up things before I buy new. I love my local quilt shop and shopping from a small business has been so nice. She’s talked about why she selects certain fabrics and she’s mindful of the artists/designers. That isn’t the luxury everyone has though.
Thanks again for your insightful video
Every language carries a culture and a history with it. If the language is lost so is a part of the culture and history. That is a good reason to speak the language you grew up with. Your reasons to use a commonly used language makes perfect sense though. I just like the idea of retaining your language personally. The fabrics are gorgeous.
I love your comment that world peace exists in your quilt 🤗💟
Thank you, Catherine! World peace starts at home!
@@shelina_virjee yes it does! 🙋♀️💟
I learned so much watching this video. Nicely done.
Thank you, LaVonne! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for explaining and clarifying it Shelina. I love some patterns there, period. Others i dislike but that's just a personal opinion. Each one is a piece of art by itself ❤
Yes, exactly. Each fabric is a work of art, and all art appeals to some and not to others. That is the nature of art. Thank you for watching and for your comment.
As a person who makes quilts I pick and spend my hard earned money, on fabric that appeals to me. Because you asked for our thoughts on this ‘controversy’ - Nothing personal or against ‘African fabric’ but it is not what I like…and that’s ok. It is beautiful and like any work of art we can admire the technique, style, design and colors used by the artist without needing to ‘own’ it let buy it, and we need to remember that quilters are fabric artists.
My opinion also: I don’t agree with some people’s comments that you may be appropriating a culture - really? - it’s a product that is for sale and supports the businesses that produced it as well as the workers. Don’t buy it or use it and no one will benefit from the beauty. It’s your personal choice and as my wonderful Mum used to say “If you can’t say anything nice…don’t say anything at all.”
Thank you for your very thorough explanation. Subscribed❤
Thank you, Speak Truth Be Kind. Welcome to the channel. The bright colors and bold prints will not appeal to everyone, for sure. It is best to buy what you like. Art is subjective. I agree that buying something on sale and supporting the business is a personal choice.
Pay no mind to the haters. The more people buy and appreciate'African' fabric, the more people celebrate each other. It's not like you aren't acknowledging the source. 🥰
Thank you, Lucia! I love that more people can celebrate each other.
Do you also use shweshwe fabric? That was my first introduction to the global term "African" fabric.
No I haven't used any other type of African fabric besides Ankara. The last batch I bought were not all wax block prints, so I don't know what to call them, but they weren't shweshwe.
My African fabrics come from a dressmaker in Kenya. I save and uplift scrap.
That is wonderful! A great way to keep valuable things out of the landfills. How did you get in contact with this dressmaker?
You going show how you make a quilt from your beautiful mareiai
Yes I am. I will have to make more than one. I have shown some other quilts that I made with African prints on my channel if you are interested.
Awesome video! Can't wait for the 15-minute quilt challenge in December. One question, I didn't see the link so I can shop for fabric. Any help you can give me wud be appreciated. Thank u
Thanks Joyce! The challenge was so much fun that I am excited about doing it again. Sorry about that, Joyce. I added it now.
Thank you. Love your channel!
Thank you for this powerful video.
You are so welcome, Torirochleau. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this fascinating discussion.🤗
You are welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it! It is fascinating to me too.
Thank you for sharing an interesting issue which was new to me.
I wish it had lots of pictures of different fabrics while keeping the discussion running. That would use the format of video to its advantage rather then an audio showing the speaker. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thanks for watching! And thank you for your feedback. I agree, seeing more of the fabric would keep the video more interesting. I am a fairly new TH-cam creator so I am still working out the right balance. If you want to see more of the fabric, my other video, How To Use African Fabric for Quilting does have a lot more of the fabric and less of me. I am making another video that shows all of my latest fabric too (the stack I showed in the thumbnail and beginning of the video) so stay tuned for that.
@@shelina_virjee I will 😊🙏🏻
TH-cam recommended you today. So glad! Very interesting and informative.
I love African fabrics but have never used any yet. So much to look forward to!
Very thoughtful video
Thank you SewHealthy!
Interesting video!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you think so!
I love your quilt ! All of those fabrics are dramatic and beautiful 😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you Santa Green, that quilt was a lot of fun to make! It was quite interesting to see how it changed with the addition of each new fabric.
I would LOVE to have some of this beautiful fabric for sewing.
Isn't it so beautiful? I have included the shop's link in the description box. It is relatively inexpensive, compared to quilting cotton. Maybe I will include it in the prize drawing for the 15 Minutes to Stitch challenge.
Informative. Thank you!
Thank you, Nancy!
Hi Shelina, ! am glad YT suggested your channel to me :-)
I'd like to ask you about something: I am from Central Europe, in my country we are quite homogenous and similar to people from neighbour countries so the problem of appropriating does not occur here (yet?), like wearing African prints here would draw attention because they are so bright and pretty and different from "our" prints, but won't upset anyone, and I truly dont know where is the line... serious question: would a white woman wearing such prints be offensive to tribe whose traditional patterns were used? How about if I wanted to wear a caftan or jewellery? Or maybe there are some colours or symbols holy or cursed or reserved only for the royalty? I want to appreciate other cultures, not appropriate and until now I was sure people from other countries were happy I like their patterns and want to wear them back home :-(
Hi Martha, welcome! That is a great question. I think one of the problems is that there is no one person to ask, since the designs belong to the community usually, or if there is a designer, it is usually an anonymous one. All of the people I know (both Indian and African) who see people who are not a part of their culture wearing and using their designs smile and are pleased that the designs and culture are liked enough to emulate. So I think it would be just fine, but there may be certain things, like uniforms and symbols of religious meaning, which could be wrong to use. You shouldn't wear something like the Pope's robe, or a religious collar, for example. Hard to know which symbols are which, but I would hope that by the time they are fabric, if they are sold to the general public, they would be okay to use.
I think the problem would be if you use them to make money and pass them off as your own. So if you follow copyright laws, I think it might be okay. That is why I don't want to give credit to the Dutch. They took the process from Indonesia and the designs from Africa, and while the fusion is new, it is using designs from Africa without giving them credit and most importantly profit.
@@shelina_virjee thank you so much! When abroad I try to buy things not in tourist shops but rather at 'local people shop there' places so I hope the cuts and patterns weren't offensive per se... on a side note: we adopted Halloween costume parties here and I DID dress up as a nun once ;-)
No outrage caused, just first surprise then hilarity because one of my friends was dressed up as an escort and other was wearing a leopard print onesie complete with ears and tail so people stared into our uber quite a lot!
You aren’t painters. There’s maybe 40 quilters who make the cut of artist. Stop this stolen valor thing unless you want to bust your butt in proffessional school for ten years getting the training of a painter. Or an embroiderer.
BTW - that fabric is Dutch.
wow. so much anger. as an actual artist of 30+ years, from Africa, I see a lot of really good art from quilters, hobbyists and people who've never been to school. Stop gatekeeping and dissing people who find and make beauty is a difficult world.
by the way, that fabric was originally an indonesian method, brought by the dutch to Africa, and the designs are from Africa, by african designers (who probably didn't go to trade school)