How to set valve lash on Nissan 720 Z24
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ธ.ค. 2017
- We will be adjusting the valve lash on my Nissan 720 (with the 2.4L Z24 motor) the process should be the same on all models from 1981-1986, just check your manual to ensure that you will need the same feeler gauge size (0.012).
For optimal temperatures while adjusting it is best to set the valves that require first piston at TDC and then warm it up again, then adjust the ones with cylinder #4 at TDC.
I have the same truck! Same year, color, engine. I love it!
Awesome!
Bro you just save me a visit to the mecanic, thanks for the video..!
Thanks for the help 👍🏻
Thanks for the videos, hey I have an 84 ,if the valves aren't closing right, it could make explosions ?
What kind of explosions are you refering to? I would check ignition timing with a timing gun if you have not already
I just put it on 10 with the gun it's on i feel it better, i clean the carburetor and adjusted,spray some carburetor cleaner around to check any air problems, all hoses fine, check sparks ,wires and rotor ,and looks fine, in park doesn't have any problems, it makes explosions on the muffler when I press the gasoline to accelerate and drive
@@cachasbanuelos5516 Does it have the timing slap on start up? I had one do the same thing right before the timing chain fell off. Could totally be something else just worth mentioning that. Which carburetor are you running?
@@Captain720no it doesn't make that, it's the original carburetor, Hitachi, I forgot to mention I did a valve job and remove the camshaft
@@cachasbanuelos5516 So it started making the noise after you removed and reinstalled the camshaft? also check to ensure your choke is coming off. You may consider starting a thread on Ratsun.net the wealth of information is invaluable and it is easier to chat that way.
Which mm filler gauge u used?
Mine has developed what i hope is lifter knock or bad timing chain and guide noises. It makes inconsistent clangs and rattles when warmed up and under any kind of load along with a consistant lifter-ish clunk that goes away half way through gears coming from the upper rear exhaust side of block.
Make sure to check for exhaust leaks, adjust the valves, rod knock is possible but usually takes abuse or a lot of miles to develop. Timing chain clank is very pronounced upon startup so have someone else start the truck while you stand near radiator to listen for that. Also check and make sure the flexplate isn't rattling at the front of the bell housing underneath. Check driveshaft U-Joints for wear and inspect exhaust hangers
Fresh factory exhaust and heat shields, no manifold leaks and ujoint are solid. I'd like to think it wasnt abused but my aunt drove this for 6 months when her cars trans blew and i got it with no oil in it. Definetly has timing chain slack if not busted guides from what i heard. Mystery clunk only appears half way to operating temp. Getting feeler gauges tonight! Gramps built this out of 3 trucks in 1994 soooooo opening valve cover will be interesting considering he put all the rubber washer seals upside down. Im scrrd
I've seen the rubber washer seals installed every imaginable way and just put them back the way they go you'll be OK. If it was me and the noise is not too loud I would swap the timing parts and drive it, you can get alot of miles out of a noisy rod bearing often and then put in a wrecking yard motor or rebuild eventually. Make sure to run a good oil like delo 400 to maximize the life it has left. If the timing guides are damaged when it runs it will send plastic shavings into the motor and clog things up so it's best to do those quickly.
I'll do what i can to save the old z24. Used a mechanic stethoscope and im pretty sure its an exhaust lifter and worn timing parts. Doing valve lash and next week timing parts. If that doesnt last I've got a 2001 honda odyssey j35 with full harness dash snd fuel system that i intend to swap in. I've been trying to source a bellhousing adapter, t5 trans, and someone to make/balance driveshaft
Valves are super quiet now. Found out the clutch is original and dragging slightly. Ill adjust the pedal stroke and hope i dont have to rip this poor ol thing apart.
i followed your instructions and the number 4 valve stem comes all the way up and i get no clearance with the valve lash gauge.
That should not be? Did you make sure and get the motor in the proper position? If it is not at TDC on #1 then it will do that.
This image may help you. The hosting site just changed their URL.
s26.postimg.cc/5ix3mvzax/Valves_FSM.png
My truck does that to and now it taps even more.and i cant get it to stop.im so stupid i touched it.
Do you have to take the head down to the block to change a valve?
I am not 100% at this moment, but I would if it was my motor. If it was me I would pull the head and do the timing chain at the same time. That's my two sense, when I can I will be replacing valves and making a video. Also I would ask on Ratsun forums in the 720 section start a thread and people who know way more than me just love to answer questions with pictures!
Jenny von Henkelmann my bf says yes you take the head off. Just be careful, its recommended you replace head gasket and head bolts whenever taking the head off, sometimes and he really means it if you just replaced hg and bolts you can get away with taking it out again (if the bolts are old or show rust after they dry throw them out! They will snap in the block while retorquing the head!!!). So if you dont want to have to buy bolts every time get a set of arp studs and put them in. Just a caution with arp studs, same with head bolts, if not properly torqued and seated the head will eventually spring a leak and back the bolts off which ends with lost compression.
Was your truck making a tapping or ticking sound.
They can a bit more so when out of adjustment. Take a wooden broom handle or something and put one end on the valve cover and the other end by your ear. Then you can hear where the sound comes from exactly.
@@Captain720 thanks bro at first it was hard tgen i got it after i took a break...more videos would be cool.thanks again.
Captain 720 i adjusted my valve lash but now my rpms will not go past 3,000 rpm!?!? Please help
Those are thousands of an inch. .030 millimeter would have mm after.
s26.postimg.cc/5ix3mvzax/Valves_FSM.png
This link takes you to an image of the service manual page outlining the valve adjustment.
2 out of 10. Would not vape again
does not work
Thanks for pointing that out! Photo hosting site went down...... Should work now.
What happen if Cam Schaft broken
It’s probably not gonna run.
I was wrong this kid is good sorry