Late to the party but I want to add- if you use digital zoom, you can zero in on a specific area of the composition, and the camera will compensate exposure. So say you want to expose for the person in your shot only, and you don't care about background, you can use the digital zoom to crop only them, adjust the exposure for that area, then back out of digital zoom. The exposure meter will tailor specific to the cropped-in area
Thank you my friend. I must say the simplistic approach of your teaching style to a issue very few understand is a real talent. Thank you. I am now using the GH5 to shoot and find this video beyond helpful. I am going to send you a couple of clips after my next shot. I will post it in the comments. Keep rocking bro.
Great video. I used this as a base for how to expose properly, but have some questions. If you're exposing a scene that is bright (like bright snow), should the histogram be a little more to the right of center? I've found it being easier in post to make those white pop (using V-LOG) if the histogram is to the right slightly, of course not to the point of clipping. Is this true for dark scenes too? Should those be exposed to the left of center on the histogram? Thanks again for all your videos, it's great to learn from!
This is just how I do it PERSONALLY, yes there are many other tools to use! A quick video on the 2 tools I use to expose my Lumix GH5 footage! This is just a brief tutorial, for more in-depth tutorials I have my GH5 Filmmaking Workshop coming out soon. Links below - Download 100 GH5 LUTs - ryanjharris.ca/luts My Instagram: instagram.com/ryan.j.harris/ My GH5 Workshop - ryanjharris.ca/gh5workshop
Hi Ryan i subscribed your channel cause i'm filming with a gh5 for a while and i was looking for some good advice about manual exposing... i'm filming with 4k30p and for slowmotions 4k60p and it's fun, quality is super good! but there's one little problem, if i set the gh5 to 180d and the picture is just right exposed i can't even take 3 steps to follow somebody without loosing the right exposure, can you tell me a trick to solve this? thank you
Awesome thanks, I’d noticed my shots were getting too dark and I think it’s because my zebra was set to 70% (and a little bit due to poor lighting). This tutorial grounded me again. Thanks!!!
I have a GH5 and shoot video in full manual exposure mode. No matter what settings I use, I cant seem to get rid of small artifacts/noise in the video, even in well lit conditions. Any ideas??
Hi there, thank you for the video. Really helps! Quick question on the histogram... I understood that when the histogram turned white, this was when the image was correctly exposed. Is this not the case? can you explain why the colour change on the histogram. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. Enjoy your content and the info. I always feel like I struggle to get the most out of my GH5. I understand the tools but haven't used the histogram. Someone once told me that zebras should be set to 70% because when shooting skin tones you should never be over 70%. Sometimes at 100% on faces seem a bit hot in the computer. I will try to utilize the histogram in the future. If I want to show folks what a GH5 can do I point folks to your videos. Great stuff!
Thanks for that tip Mat - I haven't noticed any funky skin tones when I keep mine at 100% but I will definitely look into that! I am always just sharing how I do things doesn't mean its correct all the time its just what I have found to work. Thanks for the comment Mat!
@@ryanjharris You can't argue with results - your stuff looks great - I struggle with it. I will be changing settings to try and get your results. Appreciate it!
@@MatCain72 You are right. Skintones shouldn't be close to 100%, as that would imply that skintones are bright in general. They are not - they are midtones. I can't comment on what the right zebra IRE setting is for CineD profile, but for Vlog it is about 65% for skintones and 80% for everything else, so CineD being 70% with slightly less dynamic range than Vlog makes sense.
with the 2.6 update the luminance levels have changed completely and there is nobody anywhere including panasonic that mentions it. I have just got a new gh5 with 2 .6 and I'm stuck.
There is a setting in motion picture. It allows you to change your setting for Luminance. MENU---- Motion Picture-> -----> Luminance ------------------------------------ Select the luminance range to match the use of video. Settings: [0-255]/[16-235]/[16-255] • If you set [Rec Quality] to a 10bit motion picture setting, the available options change to [0-1023], [64-940], and [64-1023]. • This function works only for motion pictures. Still pictures (including those you take during motion picture recording) will be taken with [0-255
I have no idea how to set these for my different recording modes. I think your lum level is contingent on what rez you are shooting. I can't find anything, anywhere... from anyone talking about this. I think perhaps maybe it's different with 2.6 then it used to be but not certain but almost sure............ LOL. thanks
Great stuff man! I don’t use either of these haha - I am So confused by histogram. Here it is just as you explained it, but when I turn on a RGB/luma overlay in the edit, it is completely different (and showing you exposure based on the location of the exposure in the frame - that’s always confused me.
,Hey, was wondering if I could get some help... I started setting my shutter angle to 180d but now everything I shoot outside looks super blown out. Even when I use extended iso at 100. My aperture is set to 2.8 and I'm using the lumix 12mm-35mm. Do you have ANY idea what might be causing this? I can't find anyone else talking about similar issues. Do I need to go away from the 180d shutter angle if I want to use 2.8 f stop outside?
Sounds like too much light is hitting the sensor. So you either will have to close your aperture or use nd filters to cut the light when shooting wide open at 2.8. Hope this helps!
I’m following everything but the exposure isn’t changing, any help please? I just got a heavily used gh5 and have on it the lumix 12-35mm but even after following I still see that nothing is changing. Please help
@Ryan Harris Thanks for this, it's been very helpful but how do you change ISO while still seeing the histogram on the screen? Is there any way to assign the ISO to the rear dial (instead of having that Shutter Speed there)? I can't seem to find any way to do it. Cheers!
Hello Ryan I recently came across your TH-cam channel by chance. I am travelling through Africa with my expedition vehicle and am now in Ethiopia. I would also like to set the zebra of my GH5 and GH5s to 100%, but I lack this setting. I can set it to a maximum of 95%. Is there a trick to setting 100%? Thanks a lot! Ernie
Hey Ryan, I have the same gear setup as you and for some reason it does not allow me to change my f stop like you do in this video. When I change the F stop on my gh5 the fstop number does change though it doesn't darken or lighten anything. When I screw my lenses on to a canon camera and adjust the F stop it works fine and I can see it physically opening and closing my aperture, I can't say the same when I have it hooked up through my metabones and gh5. How did you get your f stop to actually work like that? Lol
Question, I am using zebras and the waveform to help balance my exposure and that’s helping, but now once that’s done, my question is what do I prioritize to lighten my exposure - aperture, shutterspeed or iso? Like should I keep aperture at a minimum (2.8 on my lens) and then use shutter speed and/or iso to adjust the exposure? Which one should I keep low and which should I be adjusting to move the waveform ? I obviously want to stay away from noise as much as possible, Someone please help I am dying trying to figure this out and I can’t!!!!
- Shutterspeed (for video): just keep it at 180 degrees (unless you want a specific creative effect). - Aperture: Lower aperture means less depth of field / more background vs foreground separation (which is often nice). It is rarely adviced to use apertures above f8, but between 4-8 is usually where the lens is sharpest, so use that range if you don't need the background/foreground separation (if shooting landscape for instance) - given there is enough light of course. In low light, generally keep the aperture at the lowest, because you need to gather as much light as possible. - ISO: set shutter speed and aperture first, and then ISO to compensate. Simply put, the lower, the better (on GH5 there is significant increase in noise above 1600). - At this point, if the picture is still to bright, use an ND filter on your lens. If too dark with lowest aperture and high ISO, then there is simply not enough light where you are filming for your equipment to handle.
Hello, I tried to purchase your GH5 workshop but accidentally clicked the wrong link and purchased your “filmmaking workshop”. I’ve tried emailing, but I’ve had no reply. Is it possible to have my money back so I can buy the GH5 workshop instead. I’m sure the filmmaking workshop is great but it’s not what I’m after. Thank you, Joe
I feel like I would want my zebra to be showed up right around 70 IRE so that I'm focused more on the subject of the person rather the entire image. I guess it would depend on the scenario.
nice! same as how i view mine, but question have u updated your firmware yet? i can see our battery status still in 3 parts instead of 4..im just nosy haha. thanks man!
I was very excited wd my GH5 w/c I ordered on line coz its little bit cheaper but im bit half happy bcoz its made in china. My expectation panasonic is japan. Does the quality inferior or just the same? Thanks & thanks for the tutorial.
You make no mention of the exposure meter readings next to the ISO setting. What do you usually have your Exposure Metering Mode set to...Multi....Center ....Spot?
Thanks for the feedback - i PERSONALLY don't pay any attention to the exposure meter I haven't found a need for it. I leave exposure metering mode set to "center" , but again, I don't use it. Cheers!
How to you control the ISO as it keep's on fluctating...check this video facebook.com/Filmfare/videos/2351293971774406/ Need a constant exposure all throught out my video
I got a out for people who shot vlog,that will give you the most dynamic range,is it anyway I can give it to you to Review it, I wanna sell it online, since it took me a year to get it perfect
@@ryanjharris You are right about that; it's workable if you have time to REALLY pay attention. For me though, I do so much filming with a lot of it being run and gun, I had to get another camera (Sony); I just can't waste any more time with the GH5 AF. I'm not going to get rid of the GH5 though as it has a place in my kit.
I hear ya. I think I have gotten really fast using the above method (still not as fast as auto focus) and can use it in really fast environments like sports events, music festivals and what not. But I get what you are saying for sure. Thanks for the comment!
@@TheTravellingScotsman I turned that on but still cant get it over 95 %. It just doesn't go any further, must be some other setting i got that prevents it from going above 100%
Get out of 10 bit and go 8 bit. Change luminous level to 0-255 (full range) To set Zebra at 100+ you must shoot at full range.. Then you can change Zebra pattern to 100 or 105% at most. The most foolproof thing to do is shoot at video levels, 16-235. If you know what you're doing in post, shoot 0-255. if you can acquire a "full range, 0-255" then you have a little bit more information to work with in post. If you're delivering for something like TH-cam, then "video levels" don't apply, anyhow. Also too many monitors still expect Legal Range. If you use monitors or any other type of video gear like video switchers or recorders then you will likely want to stick with the legal video range. If you shoot only in camera and never use an external monitor or other video equipment then 0-255 is perfectly fine as long as your NLE knows what to do with it. The ugliness of 16-235 vs 0-255 really comes into play for those recording externally. Most video capture devices expect a 16-235 signal and capturing v-log externally can kill the dynamic range of the video since the ends are clipped. Not really clipped but they look clipped. Most of that detail can be recovered with a few methods. www.cinema5d.com/fix-crushed...al-recordings/ (HLG and V-LOG L are always 0-255), I would suggest 16-235 which is industry standard video levels. www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?359004-GH5-luminance-level-settings
Late to the party but I want to add- if you use digital zoom, you can zero in on a specific area of the composition, and the camera will compensate exposure. So say you want to expose for the person in your shot only, and you don't care about background, you can use the digital zoom to crop only them, adjust the exposure for that area, then back out of digital zoom. The exposure meter will tailor specific to the cropped-in area
the best video on gh5s exposure settings I have come across so far.
Thanks!
This video helped me a great deal. All my shots suddenly look professional. Thanks a lot!
Thanks man, been using my GH5 for 2 years and this helped!
Cheers man
I just brought a gh5 with a 12mm-40 f2.8 Olympus.
This was very helpful. Thanks!!!
Great content as always Ryan 👌🏻 thanks for being so generous with sharing your knowledge, it's much appreciated.
No worries. Thanks for watching Johnny
Thank you my friend. I must say the simplistic approach of your teaching style to a issue very few understand is a real talent. Thank you. I am now using the GH5 to shoot and find this video beyond helpful. I am going to send you a couple of clips after my next shot. I will post it in the comments. Keep rocking bro.
Is it true, that you should overexpose a little bit, when recording V-log?
Thanks much bro ... this was greatttt !!! Education
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much Ryan. I am learning a lot from you. All the way from Australia 🇦🇺
Love your vids bro extremely beneficial
Appreciate it!
Why am I just finding this now! SMH 😅 the iso increments was what I learned here today 🤯 huge
Great video. I used this as a base for how to expose properly, but have some questions. If you're exposing a scene that is bright (like bright snow), should the histogram be a little more to the right of center? I've found it being easier in post to make those white pop (using V-LOG) if the histogram is to the right slightly, of course not to the point of clipping. Is this true for dark scenes too? Should those be exposed to the left of center on the histogram? Thanks again for all your videos, it's great to learn from!
Nicely explained
Great video! thanks again!
do you find lumix’s color is more to green?
You have no idea how much you just helped me out lol thank you 🙏🏾
This is just how I do it PERSONALLY, yes there are many other tools to use! A quick video on the 2 tools I use to expose my Lumix GH5 footage! This is just a brief tutorial, for more in-depth tutorials I have my GH5 Filmmaking Workshop coming out soon. Links below -
Download 100 GH5 LUTs - ryanjharris.ca/luts
My Instagram: instagram.com/ryan.j.harris/
My GH5 Workshop - ryanjharris.ca/gh5workshop
Gracias por al información, saludos desde Guatemala!
Great great video, thank you
Thanks for watching
Nice tips. Why does your videos look so good, you're handsome, and have a nice voice?! Not fair.
Hi Ryan i subscribed your channel cause i'm filming with a gh5 for a while and i was looking for some good advice about manual exposing...
i'm filming with 4k30p and for slowmotions 4k60p and it's fun, quality is super good!
but there's one little problem, if i set the gh5 to 180d and the picture is just right exposed i can't even take 3 steps to follow somebody without loosing the right exposure, can you tell me a trick to solve this?
thank you
Best so far. Cant u make a gun and run video and show the settings u using while shooting epic shot?
this is super helpful thanks Ryan!
Happy to help!
Nice job. I always prefer underexposed but you can always do that in post
love your work!!
Thank you!
Awesome thanks, I’d noticed my shots were getting too dark and I think it’s because my zebra was set to 70% (and a little bit due to poor lighting). This tutorial grounded me again. Thanks!!!
I have a GH5 and shoot video in full manual exposure mode. No matter what settings I use, I cant seem to get rid of small artifacts/noise in the video, even in well lit conditions. Any ideas??
thanks for the ISO tips wow crazy 😀🙏
No worries man, enjoy
Hi there, thank you for the video. Really helps! Quick question on the histogram... I understood that when the histogram turned white, this was when the image was correctly exposed. Is this not the case? can you explain why the colour change on the histogram. Thank you again.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks for the video. Enjoy your content and the info. I always feel like I struggle to get the most out of my GH5. I understand the tools but haven't used the histogram. Someone once told me that zebras should be set to 70% because when shooting skin tones you should never be over 70%. Sometimes at 100% on faces seem a bit hot in the computer. I will try to utilize the histogram in the future. If I want to show folks what a GH5 can do I point folks to your videos. Great stuff!
Thanks for that tip Mat - I haven't noticed any funky skin tones when I keep mine at 100% but I will definitely look into that! I am always just sharing how I do things doesn't mean its correct all the time its just what I have found to work.
Thanks for the comment Mat!
@@ryanjharris You can't argue with results - your stuff looks great - I struggle with it. I will be changing settings to try and get your results. Appreciate it!
@@MatCain72 You are right. Skintones shouldn't be close to 100%, as that would imply that skintones are bright in general. They are not - they are midtones. I can't comment on what the right zebra IRE setting is for CineD profile, but for Vlog it is about 65% for skintones and 80% for everything else, so CineD being 70% with slightly less dynamic range than Vlog makes sense.
Awesome info thanks for sharing. What do you do in a run and gun situation?
This is what I do for run and gun also, i have become pretty quick just due to lots of practice!
Amazing video thanks!
with the 2.6 update the luminance levels have changed completely and there is nobody anywhere including panasonic that mentions it. I have just got a new gh5 with 2 .6 and I'm stuck.
What exactly do you mean? Can you elaborate? Im intrested because i havent updated it to 2.6 yet
There is a setting in motion picture. It allows you to change your setting for Luminance. MENU---- Motion Picture-> -----> Luminance
------------------------------------
Select the luminance range to match the use of video.
Settings: [0-255]/[16-235]/[16-255]
• If you set [Rec Quality] to a 10bit motion picture setting, the available options change to
[0-1023], [64-940], and [64-1023].
• This function works only for motion pictures. Still pictures (including those you take during
motion picture recording) will be taken with [0-255
I have no idea how to set these for my different recording modes. I think your lum level is contingent on what rez you are shooting. I can't find anything, anywhere... from anyone talking about this. I think perhaps maybe it's different with 2.6 then it used to be but not certain but almost sure............ LOL. thanks
Great stuff man! I don’t use either of these haha - I am
So confused by histogram. Here it is just as you explained it, but when I turn on a RGB/luma overlay in the edit, it is completely different (and showing you exposure based on the location of the exposure in the frame - that’s always confused me.
Cody Wanner I think you’re confusing histogram and waveform maybe?
,Hey, was wondering if I could get some help... I started setting my shutter angle to 180d but now everything I shoot outside looks super blown out. Even when I use extended iso at 100. My aperture is set to 2.8 and I'm using the lumix 12mm-35mm. Do you have ANY idea what might be causing this? I can't find anyone else talking about similar issues. Do I need to go away from the 180d shutter angle if I want to use 2.8 f stop outside?
Sounds like too much light is hitting the sensor. So you either will have to close your aperture or use nd filters to cut the light when shooting wide open at 2.8. Hope this helps!
great video! do you use a ND filter? if so, what ND do you use? I am considering the GH5 or GH5s.
top tips thanks new subscriber
Hi
Ryan Harris. I have my GH5s and I cant make the Fstop move. it will stay on 0.0 only the ISO.. Is there a button for Fstop? Thanks man
Is this on natural profile ? if yes what type of settings, do you grade after?
CINE-D and graded with my Presets ryanjharris.ca/luts/100gh5luts
Ryan Harris when you use cine d you you change the camera settings ? As exposure, contrast etc ? Thanks!
So when exposing for skin tone, it is still recommended to use zebra 100%?
If you expose for skin tones, you could set second zebra at 70% since skin tones are around 70.
@@glenndelissnyder3997 70% even for with darker skin complexion?
I’m following everything but the exposure isn’t changing, any help please? I just got a heavily used gh5 and have on it the lumix 12-35mm but even after following I still see that nothing is changing. Please help
@Ryan Harris Thanks for this, it's been very helpful but how do you change ISO while still seeing the histogram on the screen? Is there any way to assign the ISO to the rear dial (instead of having that Shutter Speed there)? I can't seem to find any way to do it. Cheers!
How do I change my aperture manually ?
Hello Ryan
I recently came across your TH-cam channel by chance. I am travelling through Africa with my expedition vehicle and am now in Ethiopia.
I would also like to set the zebra of my GH5 and GH5s to 100%, but I lack this setting. I can set it to a maximum of 95%. Is there a trick to setting 100%? Thanks a lot! Ernie
Hey Ryan, I have the same gear setup as you and for some reason it does not allow me to change my f stop like you do in this video. When I change the F stop on my gh5 the fstop number does change though it doesn't darken or lighten anything. When I screw my lenses on to a canon camera and adjust the F stop it works fine and I can see it physically opening and closing my aperture, I can't say the same when I have it hooked up through my metabones and gh5. How did you get your f stop to actually work like that? Lol
Cool cool cool
I think a histogram does not present information on a scale from 0 to 100 but from 0 (darkest value) to 255 (brightest value)
Question, I am using zebras and the waveform to help balance my exposure and that’s helping, but now once that’s done, my question is what do I prioritize to lighten my exposure - aperture, shutterspeed or iso? Like should I keep aperture at a minimum (2.8 on my lens) and then use shutter speed and/or iso to adjust the exposure? Which one should I keep low and which should I be adjusting to move the waveform ? I obviously want to stay away from noise as much as possible, Someone please help I am dying trying to figure this out and I can’t!!!!
The aperture will also affect if the background to your subject will become blurred or not, so it depends on what you want to portray so to speak.
- Shutterspeed (for video): just keep it at 180 degrees (unless you want a specific creative effect).
- Aperture: Lower aperture means less depth of field / more background vs foreground separation (which is often nice). It is rarely adviced to use apertures above f8, but between 4-8 is usually where the lens is sharpest, so use that range if you don't need the background/foreground separation (if shooting landscape for instance) - given there is enough light of course. In low light, generally keep the aperture at the lowest, because you need to gather as much light as possible.
- ISO: set shutter speed and aperture first, and then ISO to compensate. Simply put, the lower, the better (on GH5 there is significant increase in noise above 1600).
- At this point, if the picture is still to bright, use an ND filter on your lens. If too dark with lowest aperture and high ISO, then there is simply not enough light where you are filming for your equipment to handle.
Would you happen to have sime settings on vlog instead of cine like d????
Thank you, Ryan!
Nice
What % would you set the zebras if shooting V-Log? Also, what is the lowest ISO you usually shoot at?
V-Log clips at about 80 IRE
Great content as always Ryan! Do you use Cine-D for the most part then?
Thanks Casey - yep all in CineD still, I have found that to be my favorite
Hello,
I tried to purchase your GH5 workshop but accidentally clicked the wrong link and purchased your “filmmaking workshop”.
I’ve tried emailing, but I’ve had no reply. Is it possible to have my money back so I can buy the GH5 workshop instead. I’m sure the filmmaking workshop is great but it’s not what I’m after.
Thank you,
Joe
Hi Joe, sent you an email back! Let me know if you didn’t get it
@@ryanjharris Thank you, appreciate it.
Too helpful for me. Thank you
why do you use histogram instead of waveform?
What about the waveform?
I used it for a while but as I mentioned I don't use the Waveform anymore as I find the method in the video works great for me! Cheers
@@ryanjharris oh that's nice! 🔥🔥
What exactly does it mean when the histogram turns white?
I feel like I would want my zebra to be showed up right around 70 IRE so that I'm focused more on the subject of the person rather the entire image. I guess it would depend on the scenario.
nice! same as how i view mine, but question have u updated your firmware yet? i can see our battery status still in 3 parts instead of 4..im just nosy haha. thanks man!
Nope I haven't haha, good eye
I was very excited wd my GH5 w/c I ordered on line coz its little bit cheaper but im bit half happy bcoz its made in china. My expectation panasonic is japan. Does the quality inferior or just the same? Thanks & thanks for the tutorial.
All GH5's are made in China...
You make no mention of the exposure meter readings next to the ISO setting. What do you usually have your Exposure Metering Mode set to...Multi....Center ....Spot?
Thanks for the feedback - i PERSONALLY don't pay any attention to the exposure meter I haven't found a need for it. I leave exposure metering mode set to "center" , but again, I don't use it.
Cheers!
Spot meter+Gray card.
WHY DOES THE HISTOGRAM TURN WHITE AT SOME POINT OF APERTURE?
How are you adjusting the exposure?
Zebra... Really Matters... Thanks a Lot Sir.
How to you control the ISO as it keep's on fluctating...check this video
facebook.com/Filmfare/videos/2351293971774406/
Need a constant exposure all throught out my video
I got a out for people who shot vlog,that will give you the most dynamic range,is it anyway I can give it to you to Review it, I wanna sell it online, since it took me a year to get it perfect
bro, u forgot to show what button u were using to adjust all that.........for us beginners of course lol
Too bad the GH5 can't 'nail' the Focus!
Hehehe
Hahah true, auto focus isn't ideal on it
@@ryanjharris You are right about that; it's workable if you have time to REALLY pay attention. For me though, I do so much filming with a lot of it being run and gun, I had to get another camera (Sony); I just can't waste any more time with the GH5 AF. I'm not going to get rid of the GH5 though as it has a place in my kit.
I hear ya. I think I have gotten really fast using the above method (still not as fast as auto focus) and can use it in really fast environments like sports events, music festivals and what not. But I get what you are saying for sure. Thanks for the comment!
+
Ryan. I can only go to 95 % not 100. Zebras that is.
Hmmm strange.. I have not had that issue before so unfortunately can't be of much help there. Although 95% would still be very handy!
Steven Douglas yes I did and it stops at 95. I do 10 bit though and have extened iso tirned off. Gonna check that.
@@TheTravellingScotsman I turned that on but still cant get it over 95 %. It just doesn't go any further, must be some other setting i got that prevents it from going above 100%
Get out of 10 bit and go 8 bit. Change luminous level to 0-255 (full range) To set Zebra at 100+ you must shoot at full range.. Then you can change Zebra pattern to 100 or 105% at most.
The most foolproof thing to do is shoot at video levels, 16-235. If you know what you're doing in post, shoot 0-255. if you can acquire a "full range, 0-255" then you have a little bit more information to work with in post.
If you're delivering for something like TH-cam, then "video levels" don't apply, anyhow. Also too many monitors still expect Legal Range.
If you use monitors or any other type of video gear like video switchers or recorders then you will likely want to stick with the legal video range.
If you shoot only in camera and never use an external monitor or other video equipment then 0-255 is perfectly fine as long as your NLE knows what to do with it. The ugliness of 16-235 vs 0-255 really comes into play for those recording externally.
Most video capture devices expect a 16-235 signal and capturing v-log externally can kill the dynamic range of the video since the ends are clipped. Not really clipped but they look clipped. Most of that detail can be recovered with a few methods.
www.cinema5d.com/fix-crushed...al-recordings/
(HLG and V-LOG L are always 0-255), I would suggest 16-235 which is industry standard video levels.
www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?359004-GH5-luminance-level-settings