Why buy when you can build? - DIY Shop Stool
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video, I build a new shop stool. If you are interested in building your own, you can find the kit in the link below.
splysed.etsy.com
/ splysedfabrication
00:00 Intro
00:36 CAD Design
00:56 Purchased Parts
02:17 Plasma Cutting
03:15 Cutting Material to Size
05:01 Weld Prep
05:52 Welding
11:07 Seat
16:29 Final Assembly
18:57 Bloopers
@everlastgenerator @LangmuirSystems
Music: bensound.com
License code: JOX9MC0HFYHLHQI0
#metalfabrication #welding #plasmacutting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Nice project but the nuts are on the wrong side of the plywood
Realy Very neat. BUT "T NUT" , thresded inserts DO go right through the timber, used a lot in furniture and making loudspeakers and flight cases. tightening the bolt must pull the t-nut flange against the opposite side of the plywood from what is being held on , wheel plate or....... Acme thread is the best. BUT can be expensive. I have never had a standard , solid, threaded bar wear out in this use. I have made and repaired several workshop stools and also upmarket "thrones" which is what a lot of drummers call what they sit on.... some of these are feeble compared to what you made, but are made to fold up. Hello from Ballynahinch in Northern Ireland UK so I use metric.... but makes no difference And I agree ALWAYS SHIELD THREADS... in nuts or on bolts or....cardboard may do , a sleeve or just move a flat bit around as you weld, sticky tape or drop the next size down bolt into a nut,, Nicely made video
Excellent build. I agree with the other comments that the T-nuts should be on the other side of the plywood so the bolts pull the flange of the nuts against the wood, they would not pull out that way. Keep up the good chanel.
Forgot to mention ... round over the top edge of the wooden disk, by router . best if radius is close to thickness of plywood. Or belt sander or plane or any means you own. The how is not important but it gives more comfort and a pro touch
Thanks for all the help and for watching! I have a lot to learn on the woodworking side and really appreciate the tips.
I'm only here for the bloopers. 🤣 Great video and really cool project!
It appears that you put the treaded inserts in the seat on the wrong side. They should be mounted so the flat side is being pulled into the plywood when the bolts are tightened.
Otherwise, an amazing project!
You weren't supposed to catch that...j/k. Thanks for the feedback and watching!
Nice job! If you’re welding in nuts near threads like that in the future I’d suggest tack welding that nut at the end in first that has no exposed threads near it and then flipping it and threading that tacked nut into the rod and tack welding in the other but the same way. That or wrap some tin foil around the exposed threads when tacking. I’ve been messed up by spatter adhering to my threads one too many times… 😂
Thanks for the tip! I will definitely do that next time.
T-nuts should be on the other side. Other than that it's a good build.👍
Great project! Thanks for the content! Impressive results for a DIY shop stool versus the $500 model online!
Maybe make the metal pan the same width / diameter as the wooden seat, with screws further out from center, as this adds strength and rigidity against heavy folks that can cause the wood to flex. Sitting in stools built with a smaller center set of screws tends to be the weakest part of the seat over time for fat guys. Maybe sandwich a second wooden disc to squeeze the leather underside for a cleaner look (rather than see the folds from the side).
Outstanding video production! A bit of humor is recommended, especially for longer length videos.
Thanks for the feedback! I will add these onto the list for version 2.0.
i agree
hehehe...as you can see from all the comments about the T-nuts, I thought I'd add my 2 cents about them. :) What Graham Miller said about them (and all the other comments) is absolutely right. Nicely done video, by the way, and I love your shop stool! I have something similar, but I use an old farm tractor seat instead of a round pad. Same concept though. :)
Yes, I definitely won't make that mistake again...haha! Great idea on the farm tractor seat.
Very nicely made project, thank you for the video.
Nice video. I would have welded in the alignment jig. That would really increase the strength. (I would use TIG). :)
Great suggestion! I thought about tig but I just got my mig welder so I was looking for an excuse to use it. Thanks for watching!
the wooden nut inserts will work their way out. the seat will eventually fall out. I'd drill the hole all the way through the wood and place them on the other side. That way they will never work their way out.
good work sir!
Thank you!
Very cool project. I have been looking at those shop stools for a few years, but you're right, they are dang expensive. Some redesign notes:
-The commercial one has a hoop foot rest, which also adds a whole lot of rigidity at the ends of the legs. If you aren't using a hoop, I would add a strut, skeletonized to match the legs, between each of the 5 points at the castor tube. Anything to keep the legs from twisting, which they will, because we are all meat heads who will end up having stool races down the driveway!
-The T-nuts should be on the other side of the wood, pulling the head of the nut into the wood, like a built in washer.
-I would like to see a slightly larger diameter seat pan, and I would suggest rolling the edge ever so little for long term flatness. You could even peen the edge over if you don't have a bead roller. Prolonged sitting on the edge of the stool will twist a flat plate... the rolled edge acts as a gusset of sorts. Or, double up the nuts inside a tube, same as the base but with the nuts close together... then add some gussets from the pan to the tube.
-Spray a little WD-40 (or some fancy weld spatter spray) on the threads when tacking. It's cheap, quick, and effective.
Either way, this is an awesome project. Thanks for sharing with us!
I like the ideas and will include those on the next one. Thanks for watching!
Missing the bottom ring.
Отличный стул!!! Сиденье из фанеры прикреплено на забивные гайки, а гайки забиты со стороны винтов.
A friend and I have debated build or buy. How many hours did you spend on this? Parts & material cost? Electricity cost, consumables, welder/cnc wear cost? Where’s foot rest ring?What was your actual total cost? What was the answer to opening question, which is cheaper?
FYI-I’m in the build it camp. 👍
Its hard to judge timing because filming makes it take way longer but I would say you could put it together in a few hours. There isn't a ton a welding or cutting on this project so electrical and consumable cost is super low (under $10). All in I am about half of what I would have had in the one on the website. The foot rest ring really isn't needed with a stool this low to the ground but I might add one in version 2. If you are interested in a kit for this stool, please visit splysed.etsy.com. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have anymore questions.
Sometimes it is not only the actual savings that drive a project like this.
For me, in any way it is the fact that I made it. Also my time is not a cost consideration, as I do it in my spare time. Then normally it is really cheap for me. If I must add my hourly rate of my daily job to a project like this, it would normally be double the price of the advertised item.