3D Printed Robot Arm
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- Part 2 of the video now available at • 3D Printed Robot Arm -...
This is a 3D printed robot arm. Credit to the design goes to Jeff Kerr, who goes by LoboCNC on Thingiverse. I show how to assemble the actuators since they are the most detailed part of the build. I will be running ESP32's in each joint so I can control each joint via Bluetooth/Wifi so I only need to run 2 wires to each joint for power. ChiliPeppr and Serial Port JSON Server will be used to control the arm once all the code is written.
Jeff Kerr's Robot Arm. Printables: www.printables.com/model/1322... Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:332...
Jeff Kerr's Actuators. Printables: www.printables.com/model/1322... Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:329...
Jeff Kerr's TH-cam Video of his final assembled robot: • WE-R2.4 Robot Arm Init...
My Thingiverse Make: www.thingiverse.com/make:596644
Chilipeppr ESP32 for Lua Workspace where I'm writing the code for the ESP32's in each robot joint:
chilipeppr.com/esp32
3 steppers for small actuators:
www.moonsindustries.com/p/35m...
1 stepper for large base actuator:
www.omc-stepperonline.com/nem...
1 stepper for large shoulder actuator:
www.omc-stepperonline.com/nem...
1 stepper for medium elbow actuator:
www.omc-stepperonline.com/nem... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Super tricky project, so well done for tackling it.
Nice idea with the “mismatched” planetary gears. Now, you could add a potentiometer to register the absolute angle.
👍👍👍
Fun project. Excited to see it running.
Great work, can't wait to see it move!
Cool project, looking forward to next video!
Beautiful, I'm quite curious about the next video where you hook up the bluetooth and use it!! Great design, nice to also see the small fans inside the housing. Nice details of your work.
You should do a final episode! It could help with maybe students who want to do robotics in the future (like me). Videos like that with the simplified robot would be much appreciated by not only me but a lot of people. Nonetheless, we thank you for keeping us updated and helping us with all the videos. Keep up the good work!
Yeah, but a final video on this would take it to like Part 30. So this will take years.
Nicely done, keeping an eye on this one
Perfect! I realy appreciate your work. Keep uploading!
Your audio quality is fantastic, it feels like you're talking to me in person with headphones on!
You realise I got a better mic for £30?
Nice work John! I've been working on a multi-axis arm with planetary gears also and since I have no idea how these joints are supposed to be designed I've gone through a lot of trial and error. Taking a look at your design is really helping me improve my design (or pretty much copy yours) so thank you for sharing this
Guess credit for the design is Jeff, but your contribution helps immensely. Thanks again!
@@jaredgray7872 Check out the latest flex spline design of the actuator I'm now using. It's even better. th-cam.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/w-d-xo.html
Absolutely awesome, can't wait to see more! (Especially the control interface!)
Nice prints. Thank you!
*eyes glued to the screen!*
I love technical builds like this :D
You should check out latest part of the build th-cam.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/w-d-xo.html
So impressive. Thanks for sharing!
Beautiful Project. Congratulations.
I'm glad I've found your channel!
This is so bad ass!
Great job with the build, looks really neat.
Thanks for sharing and as always Keep Building👍
Nicely done!
Great video for me. I'm working on a robotics project for precision agriculture and received pretty good ideas. Thank you.
Cool, what's your agriculture robotics project? I'd love to see more of an open source community sprout (pun intended) around this design so we all benefit.
@@JohnLauerGplus I'm looking at a "something" to select and pick up fruits. Initially.
If possible, I would like to share in private. May be through Linkedin. Thank you.
Awesome!
Nice one. Had that exact gearing idea in my head a few years ago for a 'planned' robot idea that I never found time for. Nice to see it's out in the wild via the makerspace hive mind. Hoping to share another gearing design soon that will be better still for robotics (true zero backlash, high reduction, and very high load capabilities)
Ooh. Tell me more. It would be nice to have an even stronger gear reduction box. This one is decent, but the robot arm could be much stronger. Do you have any links to any designs? Or videos you've done? Or concepts?
@@JohnLauerGplus not yet but hopefully will have something to share in a few months or so. I'll shoot you a link once I'm ready to share it with the world :) probably via a Kickstarter if prototyping goes as planned.
@@JohnLauerGplus in the meantime check out Jeff's new design th-cam.com/video/sdRGrTHq4hA/w-d-xo.html
AMAZING JOB! Wow
That's a lot of work........Good job 👍
Wow, beautifully engineered. Great design and walk though as well. 👍
Thanks!
Verry good design of bearings
This is amazingly inventive in the use of materials when considering the potential accuracy of the end product, have you tried making a new arm with the arm, that'd make for a good investment.
Thats passion, really inspiring.
Thanks for doing this. I am printing an actuator as we speak.
Check out the new anti-backlash 50% better torque small stepper motor actuator at www.thingiverse.com/thing:3566678
Awsome voiceover
Thanks for sharing!
This is awesome! Nice work👍
That makes more sense.
I've always had really good luck Amazon filament. For me, around 200 maybe 210 if it's been out, it goes down nice.
Have you ran a PID tune?
Oh damn, I wish I have some free time to try to make your arm, nice job.
Very cool. For the bbs, (or however it's spelled), I wonder if printing a separate assembly - like a self-contained thrust bearing - might solve the problem.
That is SO COOL! I want to do something like this!!!
Hey thanks for the great video! Subscribed. :)
This is actually genius! And controlling it via BT makes it modular too!
Très jolie canalisation d' évier.
She Looks Nice!
Nice one mate
So sick!
good job , it's awesome
Great work ... 😍😍
Cant wait for the next video!
GJ!!!!
And, part 3 is now posted th-cam.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/w-d-xo.html
Wonder if you can make same with one stepper and air pushing from set stepper to get same movement less power parts?
In my experience, Zyltech's PLA is amazing. even Uncle Jessy suggests it.
Super nice!
Subed for Shure! Awsome sound and text!
It's a really cool project, but the shaky camera drives me crazy!!
Excellent video. Which 3D did you use and/or recommend?
GREAT Stuff !.. and a lot of great info on building it. However, I noticed you didn't put ( or at least I didn't see?) you put vaseline around the airsoft BB's?? Also.. I built one a few years ago, similar to this. but I have never seen anyone use vaseline? I'm curious how long it last? as I used a tube of Lithium White grease that works really really slick and well.. still lasts after a few years!! But cost a lot more than a jar of vaseline . LOL.. so if it works as good. .I'll try vaseline next time !!
maybe you could fine adjust the extrusion multiplier so that you don't end up with a lot of sending.
Спасибо! Золотые руки.
This is awsome
@03:35 You can simply create a press fit cover for the inside which will in turn hold all the nuts in place. Falling nuts into a PG system is no fun and will not be an issue if the cover is placed.
Good idea. It would add some height to the system, but probably could make the cover be 0.6mm height, so wouldn't add much. Those planetary gears do rub along the top where those nuts are. The top sun gear does push itself up towards the roof of the gearbox. So do the planetary gears, so the smoother the roof, the better. A cover could help that be even smoother than having those nuts exposed. As I've seen the grease squeezes up into the nut holes over time. Although, I do think it makes sense to have some gunk repositories where over time the shreds of plastic can bunch up and get pushed into depressed areas to help give longevity.
Nice bro...
Thats really sweet
Thanks!
It begins!!
Now all we gotta do is get a ROS package going for this!
Totally agree
Totally agree
hi there! Love the video! Keep up the great work!!!!! :)
3:21
Nice
🤣 i thought the same and ... 3:33
Great job!! Has you finish it?
amazing work, you should print a tripode for your camera ahaha.
You should do an ASMR 3D printing! Voice is very soothing. All love from Pakistan!!! 😃
Very nice project! Have you tried any other lubricants? I like white lithium grease since it's not absorbed by the plastic.
I took your suggestion and got the white lithium grease. I'm using that now instead of vaseline. Thanks for the idea!
Absolutely awesome work, what abouth backlash? Thanks for sharing
Backlash is minimal given how tight these gears are fitted. Those airsoft BB bearings don't move laterally at all, so they're pretty decent. You'd be surprised how little backlash.
And now the latest design has an anti-backlash flex spline in the actuator to help solve backlash. th-cam.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/w-d-xo.html
Would you be able to modify the design to use inserts instead of the M3 nuts? I find they work a lot better if you can heat the plastic and insert them instead of using nuts in a hex pocket.
Wow, this video is very informative and challenging as well. Bro ,can you please tell me what is the size of BB ? Whether is it 2 or 5mm?
Sir this is the very nice project and I want to implement it too but I'm unable to find the STL of all actuators ... Could you please help me please 🥺
it's so awesome ~!
I have nema 34 You did a very good job Can you do a larger model I would like to buy its longest get hold of Milling I am trying to build a milling machine with an actuator arm
This is amazing!!. So clean and robust. What is the load it can carry? Any tests carried on that?
It can carry 1 pound.
@@JohnLauerGplus what would be the possible changes for 4 pound payload.? Motors and higher reduction ratios I guess?
@@sharath_naik yes, I think that would be the trick but you may have to move to metal to do that.
We need to see how it works...
You need a tripod...
I think you print great one... 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome !!
That wooden table is so nice
That's so funny. Although the video is all about the robot arm, I do think the table behind it helps glorify the whole thing.
Please show how it works, it would be nice.
Working on it +Mikael! The next step now that the actuators are assembled is to get the electronics going. Using ESP32's in each joint to generate stepper pulses and then will use ChiliPeppr's Cayenn protocol to upload all Gcode moves to each joint. Stay tuned.
@@JohnLauerGplus thanks for the answers keep up the good work. Very interesting content. 👍
Wow..... this is really good job. I hope your effort easier access to robot technology for anyone around the globe. #globalpride
@@mohdyuzairin8719 Thank you.
@@JamecBond not if you want a touch sensor in each actuator for record and playback. Also, they are $3 each. That's so cheap you can sprinkle them everywhere. Also, running wires is a serious problem and this avoids that.
ive heard some bad things about mixed vaseline and plastics, it supposedly breaks the plastic down. I personally use white lithium grease. not sure if its true, but better safe than sorry. great video btw
I was worried about that. I searched online and couldn't find much data on the correct lubricant. If vaseline breaks down the plastic, then indeed something else should get used. I'll try the white lithium grease like you suggest.
@@JohnLauerGplus I definitely second the suggestion of white lithium grease. You'll commonly find it used in joysticks and things because it's plastic-safe. 👍
I thought the same.
I believe it depends on the type of plastic, some plastics react to it and some don't. Would depend on what type of filament he used for the print.
Can't go wrong with silicone grease. Used in distillation lab equipment because of how little it reacts with other chemicals.
Wow. that's cool
Hi there! You cannot imagine how this kind of things makes me happy. Keep going that way! I just bought 3d printer and started with Drone( arduino)
I would like see more of this project. I would like know which CPU you are using and how you program it.
Best regards!
Then you should watch part 2 and part 3!
John Lauer thanks John! Subscribed!
can you maybe link all the electronics here i relly wanna print that robot arm. relly nice projekt thats insane
You don't sand gears, you "lap in" gears. Apply a fine lapping compound to all the gears and run them until they get quiet. The lapping compound is basically grease and sanding media and the teeth of the gears will rapidly wear away the spots that interfere on the gear teeth. This has been the acceptable practice since modern gears were invented.
Interesting. I am working on a BLDC version of the actuator now. I'm printing the new compound planetary gear in nylon and indeed I am breaking in the gears by running them raw against each other and it is smoothing them out. However, what lapping compound would you use for plastic to make this process faster/better? I can't find any when you search google for "3d printed gear lapping compound".
@@JohnLauerGplus Loctite has a brand called "Clover." I'd say a nice 200-300 grit would do it. The Lower the grit the more abasive and faster, but finish is not as pretty... higher grits will give a smother, prettier finish, but take longer.
After the gears quieten, remove and clean them thoroughly. Add real grease and they will be perfectly mated!
THIS is old-school gear perfection!
What is the output torque with the planetary gearbox included?
Adjust the current , that screaming is due to too high set voltage regulator on the stepper driver. The stepper motors shall be dead silent
its look amazing ... nice work ... you have public models ?
They're in the description.
hello,
It's an impressive design. can you also do a video on inverse kinematics...
That's going to take a while to get all of that going. You will be able to send Gcode to the robot arm from ChiliPeppr from a new workspace, so you'll be able to visually see the robot arm move in the 3D viewer. A typical Gcode command would look like "G1 F200 X2000 Y3000 Z500 A234 B111 C222 D300" where G1 is a move that supports feeedrate which is the F value. XYZ are the base, shoulder, and elbow so going from bottom of robot up. ABC are the 3 wrists from base towards gripper. D is the gripper.
Wow, great
Master ✌️
Vey nicely built. What kind of load capacity do u expectt on this?
1lb maybe. Maybe 0.5lbs.
I just wanna point out that metric isn't the 'english' measurement, mostly everyone in the world uses it except for US. Imperial is actually the 'english' measurement that they moved out of which is 'inches, feet, etc.'
Yeah that's what he said, the model is in english "imperial" however the nema holes are in metric
Increíble!!! 😁🤩
Nice very nice
perfect dizayn
the high torque nema 17 is not meant to be on rotation, its the medium torque in there... the high torque is on the shoulder, as it has to support all of the weight of the arm...
Yes, i think i messed up putting the larger motor in the base. I caught that too. Good eye.
Awesome thanks
How much was your 3D printer? And would you advise buying a 2nd hand ?
@0212 Nice job but why don't you adjust the 3D model to create a counter-sink for the screws. I don't see an issue here since these were printed in-house.
Yes, I agree. That base should be raised by about 0.5mm or even 1mm to sink the M3 screws further. The downside is the sun gear height is exactly the shaft gear height to get full contact, so you'd end up with the sun gear 0.5 or 1mm higher, but that probably is an ok tradeoff.
@@JohnLauerGplus Nope, no trade off at all. shit the base of the PG system by making it a little thicker to compensate for the inner nut cover. that way everything inside stays the same length.
Why not use servo motors and forget the gears?
Nice work!
I'm just wanna know how did you wire the motors?
There are planetary gears and no space for wires.
And There is no wire outside at your final shot.
How did you wire??
Well, in Part 3 I show you creating a slip ring on each actuator so there are no wires. th-cam.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/w-d-xo.html
good manual)