I'm on my third winter with Surface Shield , applied it to a new 250 . I did do a coat every year , I haven't had the product harden at all . I buy the 1 gallon pals now but the first year only the cans were available. I don't have 1 spec of rust on anything.
It probably performs pretty similar if you apply every year. I just don’t think it’s better than fluid film so why pay the premium price is my main thoughts.
Surface shield stays on the whole winter so by spring the film has absorbed a layer of dust. You can just leave it on or just pressure wash it off the undercarriage.
The clogging can be solved by Leaving the can infront of a space heater or a bucket of warm water for a little while. When the can becomes cold the the product becomes too thick to spray. But heating it will allow it to spray properly again.
If you keep the cans warm and shake often while applying you shouldn't have much trouble. I used two cans back in the fall and didn't have problems with the nozzles clogging or dripping until the cans were almost empty. Fluid Film is good but washes off too easily, and its smell is revolting to me. Like a dead sheep covered in diarrhea.
What your saying is not true I had a can for over a year used it on little projects . And it never ever clogged up .and I was able to wipe it off with brake cleaner no problem . I applied it for a temp cover on some chipped and rusting placed on vehicles .never rusted even after 2 years through rain snow salt the whole works . I applied it to some rusted spots and got to fixing them over a month later cleaned and lightly sanded primered painted never came off after 3 years , never rusted . So it does work and is a tough deable product
I bought 1 can to try, spayed about 1 min & stopped. I did my truck last year w/can Fluid Film, it took a case, but it all came out. This year I took it to a pro/sprayed "Fluid Film". Expensive but worth it, I live in NH.
Yeah, I don't know about this evaluation. You've had long term evaluation on ff and a application eval on ss but really no long term test results?! With the ff lower viscosity it probably does a better job of creep than ss, which also wouldn't require as accurate an application, but that lower viscosity is the reason ff doesn't last. And because of that, it may not be providing much protection at the end of the year. I doubt there is much self healing around that same time too. And as others have mentioned, warming ss helps with the spray process to reduce viscosity, which means keeping it warm, may improve the results. Also, as the can is emptied, that process causes a refrigeration effect, lowering the can temperature below ambient temperature, more of the reason to keep the can warm both before and between application passes with the can. I think a long term evaluation would provide a more definitive comparison. There are some other long term test on yt that support its durability. I've used Surface Shield, Fluid Film, and Corrosion X and my own personal results differ from yours. Where pavement is consistently wet from rain/snow, ff and cX don't last very long, not so with ss. I do have to agree with you on ff creep factor, which also applies to the cX. I had an RV with a propane tank that had some corrosion. The tank, being mounted under the vehicle was only about half exposed for treatment. Removing the tank to do a better job was overly involved, so it was sprayed in place. Anyway, doused the tank well with spray, especially toward the inaccessable side. A couple years later, removed the tank for some other maintenamce work, and the creep had cover the whole tank and the top side of the tank was still well protected. The tank mounting position was horizontal and was about 20" x 32" long. Be great to see a long term evaluation on this from you.
Have you ever tried cosmoline? To me it seems like its better than the lanolin products. Doesnt wear off, doesnt collect much dirt and grime. Any reasons you wouldnt use it?
How could fluid film be applied affectively without a lift. It seems jack stands simply does not produce superior results. Do you have an affective method on undercoating simply with a floor jack and jack stands?
i never once thought this stuff will last more then 1yr. but i do think it will last a little longer or even be more durable against spray water. which its the case when i tested it plus its a little cheaper or the same price as fluid film.
I have an 04 Discovery 2 with the SALT vi. That is notorious for rusty frames in the salt belt. From 2012 to 2019 i had zero rust with a FF treament annually. Unfortunately i went theough a family crisis and didn keep up and its rusting bad now. Any opinions on not removing the rust and just coating it to prevent the loss of the frame integrity. I plan to get an air gun kit and hose and coat the frame with FF mixed wirh PB and WD40 and Dawn Plat. I tested on an 02 Minivan and it did well over the winter until the repair was done. But thats my idea just checking other ideas as well.
I tried to share my experience with SS, but TH-cam keeps deleting it. I didn’t say anything bad. I tried to post twice and it’s just gone. It was a few paragraphs, maybe it’s too long?
Just had the ole algorithm recommend your older pb and the other undercoating videos. Watched them and was hoping that after a year that the update was here.. 5 days on time lol
@@KurtofTrades I live in Missouri so rust isn’t the biggest issue, but I’m glad there’s a reasonable solution for undercarriages.. Iv heard horror stories about the spray on rubber junk.
@@whatitisnt. Correct. Woolwax is thicker. They have a "low viscosity" version that is thinner, similar to fluid film. Woolwax smells actually good, and it dissipates pretty quick. Fluid film smells unique. And takes long to dissipate. I use both for various things.
@@whatitisnt. The weird smell takes longer to dissipate. Lv is better for crevices and cavities (in door panels, in the frame members. Its spray atomizes better and it creeps more. The standard woolwax is amazing for the under carriage. Especially the black version. Our big delivery truck I did in black woolwax looks killer. Even today (5-6months later)
Brand new, the cans just clog up within minutes- constantly having to remove the caps and clean them. The caps are defective/wrong and it's infuriating to use. I bought a box of 6 and ALL of them are bad. Untested and overpriced product.
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I'm on my third winter with Surface Shield , applied it to a new 250 . I did do a coat every year , I haven't had the product harden at all . I buy the 1 gallon pals now but the first year only the cans were available. I don't have 1 spec of rust on anything.
It probably performs pretty similar if you apply every year. I just don’t think it’s better than fluid film so why pay the premium price is my main thoughts.
@@KurtofTrades there isn't a premium anymore..
Surface shield stays on the whole winter so by spring the film has absorbed a layer of dust. You can just leave it on or just pressure wash it off the undercarriage.
You can buy surface shield in 5 gallon or 1 gallon pails!!!! I just touch up spots as needed after the first coat!!!
I had a problem with the sprayer. Have to put it in warm water to heat it up and it will spray again. FF cans never have this issue.
The clogging can be solved by Leaving the can infront of a space heater or a bucket of warm water for a little while. When the can becomes cold the the product becomes too thick to spray. But heating it will allow it to spray properly again.
they must of fixed the cans because i have not had this issue. I could of just got lucky though.
They sell pb surface sheild in 1 gallon pails now. Hate fluid film.
If you keep the cans warm and shake often while applying you shouldn't have much trouble. I used two cans back in the fall and didn't have problems with the nozzles clogging or dripping until the cans were almost empty.
Fluid Film is good but washes off too easily, and its smell is revolting to me. Like a dead sheep covered in diarrhea.
Umm think it’s for metal surfaces, not painted plastics.
What your saying is not true I had a can for over a year used it on little projects . And it never ever clogged up .and I was able to wipe it off with brake cleaner no problem . I applied it for a temp cover on some chipped and rusting placed on vehicles .never rusted even after 2 years through rain snow salt the whole works . I applied it to some rusted spots and got to fixing them over a month later cleaned and lightly sanded primered painted never came off after 3 years , never rusted . So it does work and is a tough deable product
I bought 1 can to try, spayed about 1 min & stopped. I did my truck last year w/can Fluid Film, it took a case, but it all came out. This year I took it to a pro/sprayed "Fluid Film". Expensive but worth it, I live in NH.
Yeah, I don't know about this evaluation. You've had long term evaluation on ff and a application eval on ss but really no long term test results?! With the ff lower viscosity it probably does a better job of creep than ss, which also wouldn't require as accurate an application, but that lower viscosity is the reason ff doesn't last. And because of that, it may not be providing much protection at the end of the year. I doubt there is much self healing around that same time too. And as others have mentioned, warming ss helps with the spray process to reduce viscosity, which means keeping it warm, may improve the results. Also, as the can is emptied, that process causes a refrigeration effect, lowering the can temperature below ambient temperature, more of the reason to keep the can warm both before and between application passes with the can.
I think a long term evaluation would provide a more definitive comparison. There are some other long term test on yt that support its durability.
I've used Surface Shield, Fluid Film, and Corrosion X and my own personal results differ from yours. Where pavement is consistently wet from rain/snow, ff and cX don't last very long, not so with ss.
I do have to agree with you on ff creep factor, which also applies to the cX. I had an RV with a propane tank that had some corrosion. The tank, being mounted under the vehicle was only about half exposed for treatment. Removing the tank to do a better job was overly involved, so it was sprayed in place. Anyway, doused the tank well with spray, especially toward the inaccessable side. A couple years later, removed the tank for some other maintenamce work, and the creep had cover the whole tank and the top side of the tank was still well protected. The tank mounting position was horizontal and was about 20" x 32" long.
Be great to see a long term evaluation on this from you.
Have you ever tried cosmoline? To me it seems like its better than the lanolin products. Doesnt wear off, doesnt collect much dirt and grime. Any reasons you wouldnt use it?
Don’t like that it hardens. Anything that hardens will eventually crack and won’t be self healing
How could fluid film be applied affectively without a lift. It seems jack stands simply does not produce superior results. Do you have an affective method on undercoating simply with a floor jack and jack stands?
Just do one corner at a time, it’s a bit slower but you can still get good results
Race ramps and cribbing
How many cans you use on fluid film when you rust proof your car?
I think I used 3 the first time and 2 every year since
@@KurtofTrades thanks bud
i never once thought this stuff will last more then 1yr. but i do think it will last a little longer or even be more durable against spray water. which its the case when i tested it plus its a little cheaper or the same price as fluid film.
Why are you applying it to the paint of your car?
For demonstration purposes, just so you can see it better
Run you FFilm thru one car wash and its gone. Surface Shield lasts thru an entire snowy winter.
Shouldn’t be washing the underside with an undercoating on.
But surface shield should work on already with Fluid Film sprayed surfaces shouldn't it? And is it possible to get it in Germany?
I would think so. Not sure about getting it there, probably can online
I have an 04 Discovery 2 with the SALT vi. That is notorious for rusty frames in the salt belt. From 2012 to 2019 i had zero rust with a FF treament annually. Unfortunately i went theough a family crisis and didn keep up and its rusting bad now. Any opinions on not removing the rust and just coating it to prevent the loss of the frame integrity. I plan to get an air gun kit and hose and coat the frame with FF mixed wirh PB and WD40 and Dawn Plat. I tested on an 02 Minivan and it did well over the winter until the repair was done. But thats my idea just checking other ideas as well.
Surface shield comes in tubs and 5 gallon buckets, not just cans. It's been on amazon for years.
This just sounds like FF for the first coat and then SS there after.
SS is the best! Fluidflim is so bad, and washes right off.
No it doesnt..
@@jimmysmith3255yes, it does. It’s so bad.
@@LayneSteighlee lol and you have how much experience at what, you tube, get the fuck outta here. You haven't been dirty your entire life
Nope
@@camelblue713 how so? Look at all the reviews online...fluid film is shit compared to SS.
I tried to share my experience with SS, but TH-cam keeps deleting it. I didn’t say anything bad. I tried to post twice and it’s just gone. It was a few paragraphs, maybe it’s too long?
Didn’t see it in the held for review comments 🤷♂️
Just tried again. Posed it as a reply to this comment and it disappeared
@@jasoncharles6980same thing happens to me when I say FJBiden lol
@@kenj.8897 YT is trying to prevent your brain damage becoming contagious
@@notsureigaf if you are for B you are already brain damaged and have nothing to worry about.
Whats the difference in price ?
It’s since gone down but it was about 50% more expensive
surface shield was 9.99$ and fluid fil was 12
Just had the ole algorithm recommend your older pb and the other undercoating videos. Watched them and was hoping that after a year that the update was here.. 5 days on time lol
Haha nice
@@KurtofTrades I live in Missouri so rust isn’t the biggest issue, but I’m glad there’s a reasonable solution for undercarriages.. Iv heard horror stories about the spray on rubber junk.
The rubber stuff is worse than the salt almost
@@KurtofTrades I’d rather hose the undercarriage every week than have that gummy rubber on it,
Ff and woolwax. Woolwax smells "good", ff smells, interesting. But it goes away. Ff for cavities, woolwax for surfaces.
You're saying fluid film is not as long lasting as wool wasac on the car exterior?
@@whatitisnt. Correct. Woolwax is thicker. They have a "low viscosity" version that is thinner, similar to fluid film. Woolwax smells actually good, and it dissipates pretty quick. Fluid film smells unique. And takes long to dissipate. I use both for various things.
@@MrDefyreality13 taking longer to dissipate is a good thing right? Also is low viscosity better?
@@whatitisnt. The weird smell takes longer to dissipate. Lv is better for crevices and cavities (in door panels, in the frame members. Its spray atomizes better and it creeps more. The standard woolwax is amazing for the under carriage. Especially the black version. Our big delivery truck I did in black woolwax looks killer. Even today (5-6months later)
More expensive? Cheaper at most places I've seen. I use woolwax on my truck. More greasy and stays on for years.
You should try New Hampshire Oil (NHOU). I’ve found it to be better than both FF and SS
How long have you used it
@@detroit1018 A few years. It’s either NHOU or Surface Shield. I would just use surface shield but it doesn’t come in black.
Brand new, the cans just clog up within minutes- constantly having to remove the caps and clean them. The caps are defective/wrong and it's infuriating to use. I bought a box of 6 and ALL of them are bad. Untested and overpriced product.
100% agree
Love FF
Fluid Film or nothing baby!
My man! Haha