I’ve been sewing for many many years & I must say, this is by far the most impressively thorough video on trouser making, I’ve ever seen. Who ever taught you should, no doubt, be extremely proud of your skills! Thank you for sharing g this exemplary tutorial!
Thank you for your detailed video. A lining question for you: if the outer fabric is tweed (slightly itchy to skin), can lining be added to the back trouser pieces as well? If so, is the lining added to the back pieces in a similar manner as to the front pieces?
It can be. I think that would be called full lining. You only need to do a baste along the inside of the inlay so that the lining doesn't get pulled to the outside of the stitching when the side seam and inseam are sewn. There is also a drop-in lining. Basically the 4 pieces of trouser are made up in lining. They're dropped into the trouser before the waistband lining goes on.
In some cases it's so that the seam can pull apart if it needs - if it would become tight, in others it's so that I can pull it apart more easily later, and some it's just not really necessary because it's going to have another stitch across it which will hold it together.
I don't think it's an interfacing, but I don't think the names of things very are different. I have other videos better detailing what Holland linen is, which might help.
Thanks for the great content! However, I am missing something here: Both legs are cut identical at the waist and both the fly and the fly guard are sewn at a small cm SA. But then when you measure the half waist on the right leg, you start 7mm inwards, while on the left leg you measure until the edge at the center front. Those two cannot be identical by design - is the standard process to adjust the center back on one/both legs anyway?
The usual idea is that both centre fronts become a whole seam allowance by the time it's finished. So the fly is sewn at a small SA, then as it's folded over it becomes the whole SA. The bearer/zip side with the overlap it should work out. That and marking the waist measure onto the waistband any extra length will get eased across the back trouser.
You’re extremely talented! Thank you for sharing it with us.
I’ve been sewing for many many years & I must say, this is by far the most impressively thorough video on trouser making, I’ve ever seen. Who ever taught you should, no doubt, be extremely proud of your skills! Thank you for sharing g this exemplary tutorial!
Great video. Very informative and clearing up all questions I had about the classical construction of trousers. Thank you!
Amazing tutorial Thank youuu!🤎
Thank you 🤍
Thanks.
Thank you for your detailed video. A lining question for you: if the outer fabric is tweed (slightly itchy to skin), can lining be added to the back trouser pieces as well? If so, is the lining added to the back pieces in a similar manner as to the front pieces?
It can be. I think that would be called full lining.
You only need to do a baste along the inside of the inlay so that the lining doesn't get pulled to the outside of the stitching when the side seam and inseam are sewn.
There is also a drop-in lining. Basically the 4 pieces of trouser are made up in lining. They're dropped into the trouser before the waistband lining goes on.
Great videos thank you! Just out of curiousity, why don't you back tack for the trouser seams and waistband attachment?
In some cases it's so that the seam can pull apart if it needs - if it would become tight, in others it's so that I can pull it apart more easily later, and some it's just not really necessary because it's going to have another stitch across it which will hold it together.
@@caffeinatedtailor thank you!
is linen interfacing ? I'm from America so I don't understand the terminology. thanks for a great and detailed video
I don't think it's an interfacing, but I don't think the names of things very are different.
I have other videos better detailing what Holland linen is, which might help.
Thanks for the great content! However, I am missing something here:
Both legs are cut identical at the waist and both the fly and the fly guard are sewn at a small cm SA.
But then when you measure the half waist on the right leg, you start 7mm inwards, while on the left leg you measure until the edge at the center front. Those two cannot be identical by design - is the standard process to adjust the center back on one/both legs anyway?
The usual idea is that both centre fronts become a whole seam allowance by the time it's finished. So the fly is sewn at a small SA, then as it's folded over it becomes the whole SA.
The bearer/zip side with the overlap it should work out.
That and marking the waist measure onto the waistband any extra length will get eased across the back trouser.
If the fellow has a beer belly and prefers to wear his trousers under that part, how would you alter the pattern? Just lowering the fly area?
Yes, that would be my first thought. Though you have to think about suspension and keeping them up there
@@caffeinatedtailor thank you I will try it.
Understood everything but what's the purpose of keeping belt loop at CB purpose of brearer on crotch when there's already a crotch guard attached
I'm just illustrating options that you can choose
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I'm busy learning other languages.