Using foam never even occured to me. This has opened up a can of worms in my brain. In a good way though. I like the thought that has gone into your designs. Well thought out and executed.
I was wondering how thick the foam was until you pulled out your new unit to reveal clearly on the wall facing the camera "R-5 1 inch thickness". My hat is off to you, sir. The foresight and planning that went into getting that in shot is absolutely amazing!
i love the strength the finger joints are adding. i foresee you having the gift and talent of doing this full time if you so desire. you would think this technique would be very popular in the marine world for countless reasons. tnx again for sharing
You should do a shower build with this! It comes in 8x4, and with your screen plus paint method and maybe a bit of epoxy instead of poly you can make it completely water proof! Absolutely brilliant. This is a game changer. :)
Yes, I really like your approach! Practical, forgiving, sturdy materials with a beautiful and rewarding result! I will try this myself in my van build for cabinetry, I love working with foam, foam improved my quality of life in my first apartment big time. I have faith I'll make this method work nicely in my own van, so good to see you doing this!
I'm blown away by the simplicity and the utility of your approach. I wish you were around when I was building my rig. Weight is a huge problem in van builds. I'll have to rebuild my rig to shed weight. Thank you, sir. Subbed and liked for the algorithms.
Love that idea! I have plans for curtains that will have magnets for holding them in place... but this application is great... I was worried about rattling of various parts... this could be applied in many of them! Thanks!!
OMG this looks so much more forgiving and easier than working with wood. Absolutely blown away!!! And safe too. Poly-iso has no off-gassing. ANd the light weight in a collision means a 100 lb cabinet made out of plywood isn't suddenly a 16000 lb cabinet flying into the cabin -- maybe 800 lbs at best. How do you fasten it to your van?
I have not decided on how I want to fasten it to van... I could just screw through with a large washer but I want them to easily removable... I talk about this in the Q&A video a little... I got some good suggestions for quick removal clips.
Take your time, man. I'm thankful to see you posting when you can! Take your time. I'll click the moment I see it. And I hit the bell so I'll get notifications through email!
I made a rear deck for my Toyota Echo hatchback. I removed the rear seat and trunk cover. I used the one inch foam you have used. I glued 1/8 inch MDF on both sides. It is strong and holds a fair bit of weight. The floor below it is not flat, but the foam mdf platform holds pretty heavy weight. What I have noticed is it has sagged over time. I would be inclined to use thicker wood or try to come up with reinforcement. I am in the beginning stages of contemplating a van build. Looking at a much bigger van, than the VW but still figure weight savings have a ton of advantages. I would likely use wood, steel or aluminum for horizontals on a bed platform. Others have mentioned not using a solid base below the mattress.
I talk about bed platforms on the Q&A video a little bit and plan to do a seat / bed out of foam in the future. As far as reinforcing your build to prevent sag... try adding the screen AND the 1/8” ply.
Mdf tends to capture moisture and warp easily, aside from that it's ridiculously heavy. It's great for dry applications and laminate in a house or for furniture/arcade machines but it wouldn't be my first choice in a van. Swap the wood out for something less spongy, lighter, harder.
This is MY kind of cabinetry - 👍 if you've ever made furniture in your living room cos that was your only work space 😁 (I can already see how much less clean up would be)
For the swing out countertop/stainless surfboard support I would incorporate a recessed drop down leg support on the end that swings out. It could even be as simple as getting an aluminum telescoping squeegee, take off the squeegee, drill a hinge hole thru the end to put a bolt thru and attach that to the underside of the countertop so when you swing out the end you pull it down and telescope it to the floor and tighten it up. That's all I got... Good luck.
@@falkornomad See suggestion #2... doing it that way might afford you that privilege. Putting channels into the sheetmetal lengthwise might give you enough rigidity to do that.
@@falkornomad And I hear u, I'd want to do something cool like that too... It's the overreaching dreamer in us that gets us to come up with crazy shit like that.... but that's why we're different and not part of the herd of sheeple👍🏻🚀🛸🛸😉🤫
Try fiberglass using epoxy NOT resin, on your surfboard countertop. It MAY give you enough strength. However, the small surface area of the hinge joint will be prone to damage.
N0 mad: I like how your mind works… I admire your materials analysis and your systematic approach to each problem and the step by step way you solve them - and you are a natural teacher. Brilliant! I am not a builder by occupation - I spend my career in human biomechanics so I don’t know materials but I can see stress points. That hinge is taking a lot of stress in two dimensions. As you rotate the surfboard table-top to the other side of the van (yaw) you increase the potential of the nose of the surfboard to tip downwards (pitch). Add a six-pack of beer (5 to 7 pounds), and a plate or two of food (2 pounds?) and the weight of and elbow or two (?) times the lever arm (4 feet?) and you have a lot of pressure on the hinge. That table nose is headed for the floor or at least it’ll oscillate. I also think you are correct in thinking that the table will tip towards your lap as you sit (roll). Your hinge doesn’t have any lateral support to reduce roll potential. Making a ‘T’ brace attached to the hinge arm across the bottom of the surfboard surface would help. My thoughts on solutions consist of compression or tension support to the nose of the surfboard. 1. You could have a locking hinge fastened to the left side of the van. At rest it is vertical and out of the way when the table swings across the van you lift and lock the hinge to support the table nose. 2. You could simply have a detachable table leg that supports the table nose when the table is extended (a ‘T’ leg to inhibit roll would be best). As for tension solutions, 3. you could have a rope, wire, beaded chain descend from the ceiling to attach to the table nose. It could be as simple as a noose lariated over the nose or looped through eyelets to the near and far sides which would eliminate roll of the table-top. Any of these solutions would drastically reduce the stress on the hinge. Another solution would be to change the hinge to reduce a ton of stress. Try researching offset swivel table-tops or articulated table-tops online - lagunusa is one. There are several different kinds. Good luck with the build! I’ll be interested to see what you come up with. Respect.
I realize that you have already solved the problem, but I would inlay some poplar 1x2s to mount the hinge with a them extending out into the structure at least an extra foot to give you something solid to bolt into and distribute the load, if you sheath it in plywood you can sink a few finish nails into the 1x2s to make extra sure they don't rip out ideally with the 2 walls leading into that corner be made from a slightly thicker foam to increase regidity.
The documentation at 10 minutes with voice over was very good. Great style for documentation. I bet you watch wrangler star, and I think you can get a good base with this style of video as well as homestead videos. That countertop is a challenging problem. And I do see you have a part 3. I think it’s possible for you to use some sort of post, pipe or metal tube square or round to mount the pivot to. The strength of that pivot will determine if the far end of the table is sturdy. You know all of that but my only suggestion is to have some mount to the floor, perhaps one up down mount to the floor and a mount to the wall along the horizontal plain. Such as attaching the steel counter to the van wall (removable bolts¿) and having holes so the countertop is like a steel washer. I’ll see what you do in part 3. Best of luck and this content is really good and intentional. Thank you
Never heard of Wranglerstar, thanks for the tip, right up my alley. The metal post idea is a good one and has been suggested and is under consideration... I want it to be light and removable easily so that conflicts a little bit good ideas! Thanks!
Cool, only discovered your vids a couple weeks ago. Thanks for posting. On your hinge idea, could a door be made in the cabinet that when open can also act as a support for the table?
Yeah, that’s a good idea, I don’t have a plan for a door in that area but it could work... I’m going to try to get the “floating” thing to work, if not I may have to retreat to something like that.
@@falkornomad Or a support leg that folds down the side, under the removable part. Good luck and it'll be impressive with fully floating if you can find a way.
Just the cRaZy stuff? What about the boring or normal stuff that I do that seems unusual to you? Like milking goats, or butchering goats, or me explaining how livestock guardian dogs do their work on my property? As a “van build viewer” would you find those interesting?
Questions. Have you considered poliso? Extending that question, what are your thoughts regarding using poliso or XPS for constructing a slide in, pick-up truck camper? This means the exterior would be exposed to weather plus the stress of wind at highway speeds.
A metal signal leg just like regular camper table with revenut & L brackets to stop it swevling and keep it removable at any time. Expand on the fish bone to stablelize the swing out top and stop it wobbling /sandwiched in form board (you been calling them stringerfishboneone frame I .it would befree-standing from floor "Just thinking " how would I do it
It’s the industrial version of hot wire foam factories hot knife... I totally should have mentioned that, good point... I’ll add that somewhere, thanks! Here is a link: hotwirefoamfactory.com/035I-Industrial-6-in_Indust_Hot-Knife.html
@@nonyabizness.original Late to the party, but Harbor freight sells a similar knife for about 20 bucks (before the inevitable coupon). I've never used it, so no idea if it is comparable, just know that it exists. www.harborfreight.com/130-watt-heavy-duty-hot-knife-60313.html
So to precisely understand the issue its a poteintial sag to the far edge of the surfboard counter top. For simplicty perhaps a 2x4 vertical that the hinge can be fastened to. To nix the 2x4 a nut plate foamed in but then twist and sag "may" rip itself free. For the hardwood cutting board id go with a hand hold center and rest on channels like you currently have. Even with hardwood id cut short cut wood expansion could lock it in place, no good. When the cuttingboard is removed the surfboard countertop still needs a resting edge. 1/2 aluminum angle on the side of sink. Secured with an inside nut plate. If extra stability is required a resting block on the wall portside of the van should relieve stress on the hinge, or more precisely the attaching point of counter top hinge.
If you have not watched the Surfboard Challenge video, you should... that will explain the idea / challenge better. (And that’s where the idea comment threads are. There are several issues, sag to far edge is one of them. Attachment that may “rip free” is another. Good ideas on cutting board mount, thanks!
Aluminium box section fitted into the surfboard counter top lightweight and strong maintaining strength to the hinge sandwiched between the thin ply you use could work
I've literally had to make videos describing exactly what something will look like waving my arms around and pointing at things all because people couldn't understand the 3D design I created in Sketchup and even posted pictures of. I've always been a visual thinker and to me it's perfectly normal. It's actually hard for me to understand how people DON'T see things visually.
curious as to why you don't use 250 grade rather than 150 grade 1 inch formular? The 250 has higher density and impact resistance, seems less flexible, only a tiny bit heavier, costs a little bit more...
I showed tour first video to my son, we both like creativity, glad your working on it again...my channel is Robin Bitsnpieces, I just this year started on my hobby farm.
I could for sure... I address that at the end of part 3 (the video I explain the details of the challenge in) but I’d like to try (even fail a few times) to get it to “float”... only supported on one side.
Depending on what kind of freehand you’re asking about... I discuss my “mock up against the physical pieces”reasoning at 4:30 - 5:00 minutes and 9:10 - 11:00 minutes. If you are asking why I don’t use a straight edge while cutting... mostly for speed and I don’t need the edges to look finished since they will all be covered.
@@falkornomad Yes, strait edge would be fast to use. For building regular cabinets I would like to make small cutting table with fence. It would be very easy make hot wire insert for router table. I think if you have straight, perfectly squared peaces, lamination is easier to align.
Hi! I am a new subscriber. I am going through and watching all your old vlogs so your new ones make sense. I just noticed something. Are you amibidextrous? I noticed you were able to use both hands equally well. That neat!!! If you are.
Lol… wow… very observant!!! Yes, I’m fully ambidextrous from basic tool operation to writing. I’ve often said it’s my favorite natural skill I was blessed with… it’s very handy (pun intended) 😜
some info. at 13:40, you are expecting too much versatility. such a swing-out workspace Should be based on a plain ol' radius and should have support, at its distal end. or else, make it out of wood/ply. in order of such a rotating piece to move, the forward end will Need to be correctly radiused. or else, lift that end up for clearance during deployment. cheers
I have a solution for you that may work. At the hinged side of your counter you just need a latch or lock that clamps and clamps that end when it's in table mode.
Since the material I’m using is 1” thick… the finger joints are ALWAYS 1” deep… this means they align when perpendicular to each other. THEN, the width of your joints can be anything really… it’s not a perfect science. I like to use 4” as my standard and then adapt to the length that I am working with. So let’s say a 14” joint… not equally divisible by 4”… so I would do 3 @ 4” (12” total) then give an inch on each side. Make sense? I picked 4” fairly randomly… I felt like 4x the width was a good proportion and it’s easy to count out for measurements (we can all count by 4’s easily… 4,8,12,16… to mark on a ruler… 3.25” would be a pain to mark out… 3” could work, 5” could work… you do you!!
In my more recent videos there are discussions about the cost of those panels and the fact that you don’t always need them to have the skin on them. Also the screening after flushing together slowed for more strength of the final glued up piece, etc. th-cam.com/video/38DMX7s9-X8/w-d-xo.html
Crap, no I can’t... I just found it at a Habitat for Humanity Restore (thrift store for hardware). It’s similar to the arms used on commercial door closers like this: www.richelieuglazingsupplies.com/ca/en/category/architectural-hardware-for-commercial-door/hardware-for-commercial-and-industrial-entrance-doors/door-closers/door-closers/9016-series-adjustable-power-door-closer/1189737
While I agree about bells and whistles... designing for modularity really has to be at the front of the design process in my experience. I’m not eliminating options that don’t fit modular design, but I’m trying to investigate ones that allow it.
I tell myself that people are telling the algorithm this kind of video is not for them😉 but hey you can’t please everyone... and in life more 👍🏽 than 👎🏽 is all we can hope for, right?!
We are going to address that specifically in the upcoming Q&A video. It’s actually less combustible than you may think especially after it’s coated with the other materials... all pieces will be finished out the way I show in part 1.
Combustable, yes. But since it is mostly air it will not burn for long. In other words, there is not a lot of mass to burn. What i don’t know, and are interested to find out is what toxic gasses are developing when this material is in flames. This could be a showstopper imho.
Damn! That's great work! Do you plan to do any kind of glue to hold it together once you are done? Also, have you thought about, in the future, using those foam pieces as a template to create a wooden version if you wanted? Off to watch Part 3 now.
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Using foam never even occured to me. This has opened up a can of worms in my brain. In a good way though. I like the thought that has gone into your designs. Well thought out and executed.
That's what I was thinking.
I was wondering how thick the foam was until you pulled out your new unit to reveal clearly on the wall facing the camera "R-5 1 inch thickness". My hat is off to you, sir. The foresight and planning that went into getting that in shot is absolutely amazing!
Lol, Obviously that was an accident... I did type it as a subtitle in the glue up footage.... and covered it in the Q&A video.
This is great bringing in your audience. Creates a connection and interest. Gives people a place to share their creativity!
i love the strength the finger joints are adding. i foresee you having the gift and talent of doing this full time if you so desire. you would think this technique would be very popular in the marine world for countless reasons. tnx again for sharing
These have been some of the most helpful info for what I've been trying to figure out for an RV remodel. Keep it up.
You should do a shower build with this! It comes in 8x4, and with your screen plus paint method and maybe a bit of epoxy instead of poly you can make it completely water proof! Absolutely brilliant. This is a game changer. :)
Yes, I really like your approach! Practical, forgiving, sturdy materials with a beautiful and rewarding result! I will try this myself in my van build for cabinetry, I love working with foam, foam improved my quality of life in my first apartment big time. I have faith I'll make this method work nicely in my own van, so good to see you doing this!
The technique is scribeing. Cut and fit. Did flooring sales and installation for 25 yrs. Nice work.
Never met a salesman,that worked,huh,imagine that!
@@louiejordan7625 I was unique not the only one though in Michigan I know several that own stores now!
amazing videos. I went back to learn as much as I could about building this way. I am confident I can build my own camper top with this!
I'm blown away by the simplicity and the utility of your approach. I wish you were around when I was building my rig. Weight is a huge problem in van builds. I'll have to rebuild my rig to shed weight. Thank you, sir. Subbed and liked for the algorithms.
Awesome work brother!!
Thank you for the ideas! I'm wanting to build a full foam buildout in my future van and I'm gathering ideas now.
Use countersunk magnets at the ends of the cutting board to keep it in place and keep it from rattling.
Love that idea! I have plans for curtains that will have magnets for holding them in place... but this application is great... I was worried about rattling of various parts... this could be applied in many of them! Thanks!!
Use velcro instead
I like the extra counter pull out!
OMG this looks so much more forgiving and easier than working with wood. Absolutely blown away!!! And safe too. Poly-iso has no off-gassing. ANd the light weight in a collision means a 100 lb cabinet made out of plywood isn't suddenly a 16000 lb cabinet flying into the cabin -- maybe 800 lbs at best. How do you fasten it to your van?
I have not decided on how I want to fasten it to van... I could just screw through with a large washer but I want them to easily removable... I talk about this in the Q&A video a little... I got some good suggestions for quick removal clips.
Take your time, man. I'm thankful to see you posting when you can! Take your time. I'll click the moment I see it. And I hit the bell so I'll get notifications through email!
I made a rear deck for my Toyota Echo hatchback. I removed the rear seat and trunk cover. I used the one inch foam you have used. I glued 1/8 inch MDF on both sides. It is strong and holds a fair bit of weight. The floor below it is not flat, but the foam mdf platform holds pretty heavy weight.
What I have noticed is it has sagged over time. I would be inclined to use thicker wood or try to come up with reinforcement.
I am in the beginning stages of contemplating a van build. Looking at a much bigger van, than the VW but still figure weight savings have a ton of advantages.
I would likely use wood, steel or aluminum for horizontals on a bed platform. Others have mentioned not using a solid base below the mattress.
I talk about bed platforms on the Q&A video a little bit and plan to do a seat / bed out of foam in the future.
As far as reinforcing your build to prevent sag... try adding the screen AND the 1/8” ply.
Mdf tends to capture moisture and warp easily, aside from that it's ridiculously heavy. It's great for dry applications and laminate in a house or for furniture/arcade machines but it wouldn't be my first choice in a van.
Swap the wood out for something less spongy, lighter, harder.
I love your style, but please don't apologize for having a life! Thanks for squeezing this into it!
You are making me want I had my old VW poptop back...
This is MY kind of cabinetry - 👍 if you've ever made furniture in your living room cos that was your only work space 😁 (I can already see how much less clean up would be)
Man Ive been waiting for this video for awhile now. Glad to see youre back!
SO glad to see you back!!!!
man, i really wanna hang out with this guy
Smoke the mirroR Me too! He’s so funny!
I wish I had the patience to do this. Well done Sir. 👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Brilliant! Thank you so much for taking the time to share your work!
Major cool
For the swing out countertop/stainless surfboard support I would incorporate a recessed drop down leg support on the end that swings out. It could even be as simple as getting an aluminum telescoping squeegee, take off the squeegee, drill a hinge hole thru the end to put a bolt thru and attach that to the underside of the countertop so when you swing out the end you pull it down and telescope it to the floor and tighten it up.
That's all I got...
Good luck.
That would work and I could retreat to that but I really want it to “float” out there on its own... like magic!!
@@falkornomad See suggestion #2... doing it that way might afford you that privilege. Putting channels into the sheetmetal lengthwise might give you enough rigidity to do that.
@@falkornomad And I hear u, I'd want to do something cool like that too... It's the overreaching dreamer in us that gets us to come up with crazy shit like that.... but that's why we're different and not part of the herd of sheeple👍🏻🚀🛸🛸😉🤫
Try fiberglass using epoxy NOT resin, on your surfboard countertop. It MAY give you enough strength. However, the small surface area of the hinge joint will be prone to damage.
N0 mad:
I like how your mind works… I admire your materials analysis and your systematic approach to each problem and the step by step way you solve them - and you are a natural teacher. Brilliant!
I am not a builder by occupation - I spend my career in human biomechanics so I don’t know materials but I can see stress points. That hinge is taking a lot of stress in two dimensions. As you rotate the surfboard table-top to the other side of the van (yaw) you increase the potential of the nose of the surfboard to tip downwards (pitch). Add a six-pack of beer (5 to 7 pounds), and a plate or two of food (2 pounds?) and the weight of and elbow or two (?) times the lever arm (4 feet?) and you have a lot of pressure on the hinge. That table nose is headed for the floor or at least it’ll oscillate. I also think you are correct in thinking that the table will tip towards your lap as you sit (roll). Your hinge doesn’t have any lateral support to reduce roll potential. Making a ‘T’ brace attached to the hinge arm across the bottom of the surfboard surface would help. My thoughts on solutions consist of compression or tension support to the nose of the surfboard. 1. You could have a locking hinge fastened to the left side of the van. At rest it is vertical and out of the way when the table swings across the van you lift and lock the hinge to support the table nose. 2. You could simply have a detachable table leg that supports the table nose when the table is extended (a ‘T’ leg to inhibit roll would be best). As for tension solutions, 3. you could have a rope, wire, beaded chain descend from the ceiling to attach to the table nose. It could be as simple as a noose lariated over the nose or looped through eyelets to the near and far sides which would eliminate roll of the table-top. Any of these solutions would drastically reduce the stress on the hinge. Another solution would be to change the hinge to reduce a ton of stress. Try researching offset swivel table-tops or articulated table-tops online - lagunusa is one. There are several different kinds. Good luck with the build! I’ll be interested to see what you come up with. Respect.
Thanks for the ideas... I feel like support would be cheating... I’m gonna give it a shot with no support first👍🏽
@@falkornomad Go for it! hope it all works I'm hooting for you!
That's a great idea man cannot wait to the finish my sailboat to start at my 1966 Dodge van thanks boss 👍
Some serious compound angles there!!
Nice work!
I do like a compound angle! My math skills aren’t very good at them, but I do have an eye for them!
I realize that you have already solved the problem, but I would inlay some poplar 1x2s to mount the hinge with a them extending out into the structure at least an extra foot to give you something solid to bolt into and distribute the load, if you sheath it in plywood you can sink a few finish nails into the 1x2s to make extra sure they don't rip out ideally with the 2 walls leading into that corner be made from a slightly thicker foam to increase regidity.
The documentation at 10 minutes with voice over was very good. Great style for documentation. I bet you watch wrangler star, and I think you can get a good base with this style of video as well as homestead videos. That countertop is a challenging problem. And I do see you have a part 3. I think it’s possible for you to use some sort of post, pipe or metal tube square or round to mount the pivot to. The strength of that pivot will determine if the far end of the table is sturdy. You know all of that but my only suggestion is to have some mount to the floor, perhaps one up down mount to the floor and a mount to the wall along the horizontal plain. Such as attaching the steel counter to the van wall (removable bolts¿) and having holes so the countertop is like a steel washer. I’ll see what you do in part 3. Best of luck and this content is really good and intentional. Thank you
Never heard of Wranglerstar, thanks for the tip, right up my alley. The metal post idea is a good one and has been suggested and is under consideration... I want it to be light and removable easily so that conflicts a little bit good ideas! Thanks!
This foam building method, and epoxy and youve got a revolution here ,or imagine carved spray foam ,imagine the angles ,like adobie houses,
You are awesome! This has given me so many great ideas. Am a new subscriber for sure.
Cool, only discovered your vids a couple weeks ago. Thanks for posting. On your hinge idea, could a door be made in the cabinet that when open can also act as a support for the table?
Yeah, that’s a good idea, I don’t have a plan for a door in that area but it could work... I’m going to try to get the “floating” thing to work, if not I may have to retreat to something like that.
@@falkornomad Or a support leg that folds down the side, under the removable part. Good luck and it'll be impressive with fully floating if you can find a way.
glad to see U back on! show all the crazy stuff U do :)
Just the cRaZy stuff? What about the boring or normal stuff that I do that seems unusual to you? Like milking goats, or butchering goats, or me explaining how livestock guardian dogs do their work on my property? As a “van build viewer” would you find those interesting?
@@falkornomad yes show it all :)
Ok you got it... let me know when you fall asleep😜
I was starting to wonder where Part 2 was, LOL!
Thanks for doing this video. I appreciate your inspiration for my next project.
Thank you so much for sharing this information, this is VERY helpful!
It might be late, but if you need it I have a suggestion to utilize the space above the wheel well.
Miguel Armillas You could tell the rest of us!
Questions. Have you considered poliso? Extending that question, what are your thoughts regarding using poliso or XPS for constructing a slide in, pick-up truck camper? This means the exterior would be exposed to weather plus the stress of wind at highway speeds.
A metal signal leg just like regular camper table with revenut & L brackets to stop it swevling and keep it removable at any time. Expand on the fish bone to stablelize the swing out top and stop it wobbling /sandwiched in form board (you been calling them stringerfishboneone frame I .it would befree-standing from floor
"Just thinking " how would I do it
Cool foam. Looking forward to an effective finish
The cutting tool looks different than the prior video. Love what you are doing. What cutting tool are you using here?
It’s the industrial version of hot wire foam factories hot knife... I totally should have mentioned that, good point... I’ll add that somewhere, thanks!
Here is a link: hotwirefoamfactory.com/035I-Industrial-6-in_Indust_Hot-Knife.html
whoa. it's $200.00.
@@nonyabizness.original Late to the party, but Harbor freight sells a similar knife for about 20 bucks (before the inevitable coupon). I've never used it, so no idea if it is comparable, just know that it exists.
www.harborfreight.com/130-watt-heavy-duty-hot-knife-60313.html
New Fan :) you are awesome and explain soooooo well
So to precisely understand the issue its a poteintial sag to the far edge of the surfboard counter top. For simplicty perhaps a 2x4 vertical that the hinge can be fastened to. To nix the 2x4 a nut plate foamed in but then twist and sag "may" rip itself free.
For the hardwood cutting board id go with a hand hold center and rest on channels like you currently have. Even with hardwood id cut short cut wood expansion could lock it in place, no good.
When the cuttingboard is removed the surfboard countertop still needs a resting edge. 1/2 aluminum angle on the side of sink. Secured with an inside nut plate.
If extra stability is required a resting block on the wall portside of the van should relieve stress on the hinge, or more precisely the attaching point of counter top hinge.
If you have not watched the Surfboard Challenge video, you should... that will explain the idea / challenge better. (And that’s where the idea comment threads are.
There are several issues, sag to far edge is one of them. Attachment that may “rip free” is another.
Good ideas on cutting board mount, thanks!
Use a Lagun table mount or a pivot point built into the countertop (like a vertical dowel). Just a thought.
Aluminium box section fitted into the surfboard counter top lightweight and strong maintaining strength to the hinge sandwiched between the thin ply you use could work
I so appreciate “Visual” Thinkers ..... ppl think that I’m Nuts.
I've literally had to make videos describing exactly what something will look like waving my arms around and pointing at things all because people couldn't understand the 3D design I created in Sketchup and even posted pictures of. I've always been a visual thinker and to me it's perfectly normal. It's actually hard for me to understand how people DON'T see things visually.
You can build those without a back and a perimeter nail rail like they do in Boats and fasten the sides to the existing wall.
looks like foam is a great material to work with
I like it more than I thought I would.
Rock and roll, love the content. Thanks
This is awesome. I started a Foamie Builder group on Facebook to share ideas and such. Mind if I share your video?
Please do!
Love it! Very cool indeed sir!
curious as to why you don't use 250 grade rather than 150 grade 1 inch formular? The 250 has higher density and impact resistance, seems less flexible, only a tiny bit heavier, costs a little bit more...
Great job, thanks for the tips.
I freakin love this idea,im gonna subscribe,and try this
Are you in Los Angeles area? Can I hire you?!? I love this. Subscribed! Also your voice is incredible. You sometimes sound like Jim Morrison.
I’m in NorCal and not for hire, sorry.
Where are you located? If I was around we could make quick work of it..
I showed tour first video to my son, we both like creativity, glad your working on it again...my channel is Robin Bitsnpieces, I just this year started on my hobby farm.
Cool! Based on your videos, you’ll like the changes coming to my channel... lots more homesteading stuff in the future!!!
Maybe attach a metal pillar from the floor of the van all the way up the side of the cabinet to secure the hinge to. Like an upside down L.
Could you build a arm on the chair that would support the surfboard table when it's fully
I could for sure... I address that at the end of part 3 (the video I explain the details of the challenge in) but I’d like to try (even fail a few times) to get it to “float”... only supported on one side.
btw a jigsaw makes super clean cuts.
I really like foam cabinets, but why have you cut all free hand?
Depending on what kind of freehand you’re asking about... I discuss my “mock up against the physical pieces”reasoning at 4:30 - 5:00 minutes and 9:10 - 11:00 minutes.
If you are asking why I don’t use a straight edge while cutting... mostly for speed and I don’t need the edges to look finished since they will all be covered.
@@falkornomad Yes, strait edge would be fast to use. For building regular cabinets I would like to make small cutting table with fence. It would be very easy make hot wire insert for router table. I think if you have straight, perfectly squared peaces, lamination is easier to align.
Hi! I am a new subscriber. I am going through and watching all your old vlogs so your new ones make sense. I just noticed something. Are you amibidextrous? I noticed you were able to use both hands equally well. That neat!!! If you are.
Lol… wow… very observant!!! Yes, I’m fully ambidextrous from basic tool operation to writing. I’ve often said it’s my favorite natural skill I was blessed with… it’s very handy (pun intended) 😜
some info. at 13:40, you are expecting too much versatility. such a swing-out workspace Should be based on a plain ol' radius and should have support, at its distal end. or else, make it out of wood/ply. in order of such a rotating piece to move, the forward end will Need to be correctly radiused. or else, lift that end up for clearance during deployment. cheers
Inspiring. Thanks
You're a f-ing genius. Thanks again.
How about a marine type hinge/arm?
I have a solution for you that may work. At the hinged side of your counter you just need a latch or lock that clamps and clamps that end when it's in table mode.
How do i find information on the jigs you made? How many inches apart, how deep are the holes, fingers?
Since the material I’m using is 1” thick… the finger joints are ALWAYS 1” deep… this means they align when perpendicular to each other. THEN, the width of your joints can be anything really… it’s not a perfect science. I like to use 4” as my standard and then adapt to the length that I am working with. So let’s say a 14” joint… not equally divisible by 4”… so I would do 3 @ 4” (12” total) then give an inch on each side. Make sense?
I picked 4” fairly randomly… I felt like 4x the width was a good proportion and it’s easy to count out for measurements (we can all count by 4’s easily… 4,8,12,16… to mark on a ruler… 3.25” would be a pain to mark out… 3” could work, 5” could work… you do you!!
Jigs and fixtures... oh yes my youth spent in a machine shop.
Excellent
Seems a lot of messing around with what's essentially freezer panel that you can just purchase ?
In my more recent videos there are discussions about the cost of those panels and the fact that you don’t always need them to have the skin on them. Also the screening after flushing together slowed for more strength of the final glued up piece, etc. th-cam.com/video/38DMX7s9-X8/w-d-xo.html
Excuse me, mister Nomad, can this material be epoxyed and/or painted?
Yes
Can you share a source link for your hing?
Crap, no I can’t... I just found it at a Habitat for Humanity Restore (thrift store for hardware). It’s similar to the arms used on commercial door closers like this: www.richelieuglazingsupplies.com/ca/en/category/architectural-hardware-for-commercial-door/hardware-for-commercial-and-industrial-entrance-doors/door-closers/door-closers/9016-series-adjustable-power-door-closer/1189737
Weld post for swinging hinge to frame. Extend hinge to end of swinging worktop.
That would work but I need / want these to be modular / removable
@@falkornomad your next problem. Design for strength and durability. Then go for bells and whistles. Like modular and interchangeable.
While I agree about bells and whistles... designing for modularity really has to be at the front of the design process in my experience. I’m not eliminating options that don’t fit modular design, but I’m trying to investigate ones that allow it.
Modular is mandatory. Design around that constant. You're going to get it.
Put a slide in the top that is hooked to the top
thanks for the video
Thanks for the comment!!
How do you attached foam to metal?
Perfect congratulation ¡¡¡¡👍🏻😁
Amazing
Maybe like with hinges wood inserts
Which industrial hot knife are you using?
Hot wire foam factory’s it’s great… I put the shorter blade on it, but both are fine.
❤great work ❤
👍🏽
Ain't you going to need some space for finish material between the surfboard swing out and cutting board
Yes, it’s tighter now than it will be... good eye!
badass!
See my most recent videos for more on the subject.
How does this have dislikes?
I tell myself that people are telling the algorithm this kind of video is not for them😉 but hey you can’t please everyone... and in life more 👍🏽 than 👎🏽 is all we can hope for, right?!
its amusing when youtubers point to the corner of the video frame for a link, but it never shows up
It’s true!!! I have not trained my links very well!!!!
I like your concept and build, but this material is considered COMBUSTIBLE and should have a thermal barrier, and should be noted in videos. Cheers.
We are going to address that specifically in the upcoming Q&A video. It’s actually less combustible than you may think especially after it’s coated with the other materials... all pieces will be finished out the way I show in part 1.
Combustable, yes. But since it is mostly air it will not burn for long. In other words, there is not a lot of mass to burn. What i don’t know, and are interested to find out is what toxic gasses are developing when this material is in flames. This could be a showstopper imho.
Damn! That's great work! Do you plan to do any kind of glue to hold it together once you are done? Also, have you thought about, in the future, using those foam pieces as a template to create a wooden version if you wanted? Off to watch Part 3 now.
Yes all the pieces will be finished the same way as the one in part one, glued and screened and finished on the outside.
No
Coat the pink sheets In apoxy
Check out my most recent video for more on the subject.
foamular + fiberglass . ok