NOT Gorilla Glue! Watch This Before Building a Foamie!! BEST Adhesive
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- This a comparison of possible adhesives for a foamie trailer.
If you are interested in the other videos regarding this trailer please check these out:
Micro Teardrop Trailer Tour: • Micro Teardrop Trailer...
Micro Teardrop Trailer Full Build Time Lapse: • Micro Foamie Vespa Tea...
PMF tutorial: • Poor Mans Fiberglass P...
Check out my other trailers:
Teardrop Trailer PMF Tour: • Home Built Teardrop Ca...
Cargo Trailer PMF: • Poor Man's Fiberglass ...
I am not affiliated with any of these products, and I purchased them with my own money.
Foam fusion can be purchased here: hotwirefoamfac...
Follow Tom's Adventures in the trailer: / @thetinysideoftiny7625
Wood glue didn't cure because the foam is water tight. Wood normally draws moisture out of the glue, which allows the glue to dry. Something to consider with any kind of water based product if you're working with synthetic materials that do not "breath".
Breathe.
It is what you do.
Breath is what it is.
Just a thought - the aircraft and boat guys use a 2 part epoxy (West System) which you can get at a marine supply store or aircraft supply house (Aircraft Spruce) then they sand and put a layer of fiberglass over the joint - the result you can stand on or jump on without breaking. Sanding both surfaces of a joint is critical. I made wing ribs this way and flew it for years - about unbreakable if you need great strength. Good video and fun project - thanks for making :)
Sounds great! Great information, thanks!
Yes! I use epoxy in my art projects and I was thinking the same thing
Doesn't the epoxy melt the XPS foam?
@@mr.e7022 No, epoxy is good for EPS and XPS, old school polyester resin will melt both.
I’m an aircraft builder also… I mentioned west systems epoxy in the comments for another tutorial video… also Aeropoxy would work (Aircraft Spruce).
It's usually not the spray paint that melts the foam, it's often the paint thinners used to make the paint thin enough to spray. If you spray the foam from far enough away, most of the thinner will evaporate as the droplets go through the air before it hits the surface. You'll have to test the safe distance for each brand and color on sample pieces. People who make costumes use XPS a lot, they have some tips and tricks that you don't hear about within the community of large project builders.
Thank you! Great information!
@@BLAlley The paint itself is almost never going to react with the foam, It's the propellants that rapidly evaporate. You want to spray from far enough that the propellant mostly evaporates before it lands on the project but not so far away that the paint starts to dry in the air.
@@BLAlley I've used it. There's a happy medium where it subtly melts and bonds to the surface. This is different for every brand and even every color of spray paint so you need to test a scrap piece. Feel free to invest in a spray gun or use a paint brush. Most people are interested in using spray paints because of their price and availability, ease of use... That's why I explained the why and how to avoid damaging an XPS project.
@@BLAlley It's a bad idea in your own opinion. No one is preventing you from doing it your way. Not everyone has the money to be picky. Move along.
@@LaOwlett your channel has no content. It is moving nowhere.
Late to the party here. But just finished my foamie and want to offer my advice. Any polyurethane adhesive (gorilla glue and most construction adhesives) create a mechanical bond to the two pieces being glued. You absolutely must create a rough, or uneven, surface to the pieces being adhered. When done correctly the connection will be many times stronger than the material being adhered. Try sanding the XPS foam at the connection point with a very coarse sand paper. If possible, I recommend rough sanding first and following up with a docker after (I used a roller docker with steel pins made for docking pizza dough). For adhesive I really like a couple construction adhesive designed for outdoor applications: Loctite PL Max (caulking tubes only) and Loctite Power Grab All Purpose (available by the gallon). They are fast acting, easy to work with, and clean up with soap and water.
Thank you for your response! And yes, in the trailer we roughed the foam up with a wall paper remover in some parts and 80 grit sandpaper in others. The end to end demonstration more accurately shows the foam without any film over it. The foam fusion still provided the deepest bond.
@@thelwood Another helpful hint: Use The Vacuum Bag System, Used In Fiberglass/Carbon Fiber Lamination, You Can Also Use A Screen Printing Technique for Burning Screens. Build an oversized Frame and attach Neoprene Wetsuit Material. To Pull The vacuum Straight Down From the Upper Surface To Evenly Distribute the Pressure on the Upper Surface. I Believe they use this "Dry Mount" Technique to mount poster prints to Foamcore for picture frames!?!! 😉🙃😜
Car body panel PU mastic is amazingly sticky and the resulting rubber is tough. I’ve successfully repaired kids school shoes. You won’t find a better test than that.
Latex paint, will bond EPS sheets, and is friendly with hot-wire cutting.
@@jamesmorton7881was going to recommend latex paint as well. Roughing up the surfaces to be bonded before application will provide even better adhesion.
A 1/2" fillet of thickened epoxy and bamboo skewers dowels will make MUCH stronger joints than just butted glue joints.
The foam kayak guys use the skewers
Fillets are common in boat building (foam and wood)
Thanks! We did add a few skewers here and there. But with the relief cuts for the curves and only using 1 in foam, they were prone to blowing through the foam or ending up between the relief cuts. So we ended up just using the adhesive and then once it was wrapped with the canvas it was super strong. I will look into the fillet method.
@@thelwoodJackman Works uses the fillet process on the Upside down boat!
Doweling is easy with foam, and it makes a big difference. Even a bunch of toothpicks can really strengthen long joints.
If you need to make walls or counter tops or other large panels invest in a vacuum pump and vacuum bags to clamp the wood skins to the foam core to create super strong, super lightweight foam core composite panels. You can get 1/16" real wood veneers or use very thin plywood to lay up on each side of the foam, place this lay up in the plastic vacuum bag and seal the edges, install the connection port for the vacuum pump to the plastic bag, then turn the vacuum pump on and get as close to -29.92 inHg or -14.696 psi as possible. Since all the air has been removed from the bag the atmosphere is pushing from all directions clamping your lay up together with a uniform force of 14.696 pounds per square inch. If your layup panel was 96x48 and you wanted to just use concrete cinder blocks to apply a clamping force to your layup while it cured you would need a whopping 67,719 lbs of cinder blocks to equal the clamping pressure of using a vacuum bag with a full vacuum applied. One other hint, if you need to make a composite panel that will hold more weight increase the thickness of the core and keep the skin thicknesses the same, for example a 2"-3" thick foam core is going to be massively strong that if you were doing a van build you could clear span from side to side for use as a bed platform with the only support being a cleat running down each side wall and no center support. I hope this helps
Great ideas! I have a vacupress but I haven't tried using it with foam, just veneer and mdf
Excellent tips, thanks!
I have done a lot of projects with foam and fiberglass using 2 part epoxy which glues closed cell foam together great and seals fiberglass cloth to foam very well with no delaminations when done properly. Epoxy can be expensive but doesn't take a lot for a project like the "foamie" trailer. I suspect the stuff you liked, the foam fusion would work well also. The epoxy makes thefiberglass very stiff and hard but needs to be painted well with a UV barrier paint to keep from degrading over the years outside. But it makes an outstandingly rigid and protected outer shell for the trailer. Great presentation!
Experts like burt rutan have been making airplanes with foam and fiberglass construction with extreme strength, they use a form of epoxy I believe then lay fiberglass over for a high strength exterior
Good video about gluing foam. This is useful for me. Most of us are not willing to go through that much work, even if we need to know. As you know, there are many ways to skin a cat. You can glue foam with hot glues that normally melt foam by priming foam with latex paint, the paint will keep the foam from melting. Depending on the heat of the glue, you need up to 5 coats of latex on the bare foam. This works perfect when using fiberglass resin to glue foam or for fiber glassing large surfaces of foam because the wet fiberglass melts unprimed with latex foam.
@peterloichtl4512 great information!
There is a term called glue starved. This term relates to two smooth surfaces being glued together with a Non-etching glue( glue does not melt or etch the surfaces to be glued ) and have been clamped together to tight and all of the glues is squeezed out of the area that was to be glued together. IF the two surfaces to be glued together are sanded to make a more pores or rougher surface allowing the glue to have more surface area to stick to the glue joint becomes MUCH stronger. Even by running a pen or dull nail scratching parallel lines inside the surface to be glued will increase the glue joint dramatically because the two pieces that are to be glued together to have MORE glue staying into the joint surface area.
Thanks for the info! On the teardrop we sanded at 150 and ran a wallpaper remover it. The side by side joint in this test represents this best since both surfaces were cut. I was impressed with how deep the bond was through the shiny surface using the foam fusion. Have a great day!
Forgot to add. PL makes a foam specific polyurethane adhesive. It comes in a caulk type tube. It worked well when I insulated my garage door with rigid foam
Good to know! Thanks!
If you hold the spray paint back farther it allows the ingredient that eats the foam to evaporate off before the paint hits the foam.
Good to know!
Appreciate your time explaining the differences in brands of adhesives and their effectiveness 😎👍
Great comparison of glues. I wish I would have known foam fusion when I built my trailer. I got pretty good with the Gorilla glue though.
One adhesive that is a pain to work with, but works incredibly well is Great Stuff expanding foam. I used it in places that were impossible to clamp except by holding it. It sets up very quickly, and works as well or better than the Gorilla glue as an adhesive.
That's very interesting! I have never heard of it. I will have to check it out! Thank you!
Церезит Хейнкель, особые условия в Северной Америке. (Ceresit СТ 84 Express PLUS) я на пенсии ничего не продаю ничего не покупаю👍
@@thelwood I have worked extensively with foam for years building things out of them, using polyethylene, ldpe, styrofoam, xpanded (xps) foam etc. One thing to know about great stuff is it will indeed keep expanding, sometimes for years. You can test this yourself by painting and sealing a small 1 to 5 inch glob of it after a week or more of it drying. Cracks will appear in the paint as it bulges outward from the expanding pressure. I even tried waiting 6 months to paint things made from expanded foam, and they still expanded.
@@astrobouncer487 thank you for the information!
Build a clamp with foam and dowels using EVA for the faces to prevent slipping and marring.
That foam fusion seems amazing!
It would have been a nightmare if we had used the original plan of gorilla glue!
Great video. I’m getting ready to make a foamy camper and I need to glue 3mm ply on foam before fiberglassing. Gorilla clear as it’s available here locally in Japan. Thanks
Didn't you know that one of your biggest fans is an amazing material scientist and glue expert?! If you need a "Home Depot" solution, I would expect a product like Loctite PL300 to work well. Any of the urethane based adhesives will foam--that's why I avoid them for wood projects too!
Awesome! Thanks Seth!
I will consult you for all of my glue needs/ questions!
Hey Seth - great tip. I did get some PL Foamboard adhesive.
Planning to bond foam to aluminum.
Now, will it work with EPS - the white “lumpy” foamboard - made with beads (as opposed to the smooth XPS.) ?
Thanks much.
I liked this test video. Very good work.
Considering you are going to be covering the foam in a composite fabric that provides the strength, you really only need something that will hold the pieces together and is easy/similar to the foam to sand.
Have you tried ratchet straps for clamping? Really excellent securing curved forms
Ratchet straps are great! I used them on my wooden teardrop! The reason I didn't in this one is because the sides were already cnc cut before I got involved and the roof had to go between the sides instead of on the top (which is how I would have done it) and then ratchet straps would have made life much easier! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks! Practical, not too technical (like Project Farm) and friendly. First time viewer, now subbed.
Thank you!
Thank you for making this video.
Very practical and helpful.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
just a tip for people youll need to give the xps foam a sand before glueing ,and ive guys have great results from D3 wood glue and sanding then coating the xps foam with cotton canvas and d3 wood glue and roll it in with tiny roller then they used quite a thick almost tanking paint ontop for a rock hard outer finish
With the gorilla glue original, you only use a little bit you get a credit card and scrape it so you there's a thin layer. I used to buy this clear glue from one of those cheap shops in Australia. It clear, bit had not of smell to it and was warm on the skin, took a few hours to dry but it would never break where the glue was. They stop selling it, I was so annoyed.
That is a bummer! Thanks for the tip on gorilla glue!
Have you thought of adding a biscuit joiner to the mix? I think it would work AMAZING...I am in the midst of building my own foam bicycle camper and I think I might actually start the foam over, since I'm not very far in, and incorporate some wooden biscuits into the joints. That combined with foam fusion would be a winner combo, IMO. I'll be ordering the foam fusion...I already started with wood glue, but like I said, I'm not very far into it, so I think it's best just do it again.
Biscuits are a great idea! They typical help with lining things up more than strength in wood, but in the foam they would probably add significant strength! I have a festool domino joiner. They are longer than Biscuits and next time I would throw some of those in too!
You could try inserting short lengths of steel wire as pins, it would create a similar mechanical joint without having to cut slots for biscuits or dominos.
I'm intrigued by how well the foam fusion appears to have glued the plywood to the foam. I wonder how well it would work to bond canvas to the foam? Did you by any chance try out the foam fusion as the "base layer" for the poor man's fiberglass (in place of titebond)? If so, how did it work?
I have not tried it. I think it would work extremely well. So far it seems to work well with all porous surfaces
@@thelwood Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I think I'll give it a try on some test pieces like you did with the other glues, to see how well it bonds with canvas. I also want to see how it bonds with the fabric they use as a headliner in camper shells for truck beds, as that's what I want to line the interior of the cabin with (so I can stick Velcro anywhere). Another question, since you've built both a plywood and a foamie teardrop, do you prefer one method over the other?
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR VIDEOS, I'm a 48 year old disabled man and I'm going to be homeless with my dog in 4 months, I only have SSI check to live on and I want to build a self contained foamie trailer that I can pull behind my scooter at 45 mph. Any kind of help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED, I have no clue as to what to do and I have a small budget.
Finding a base trailer that will work well be the hardest part. This one was welded it out aluminum. I have seen trailers made with bicycle tires too. Once you have the base trailer, then building with foam isn't too hard. I would look for the 1.5" or 2" foam to make it more ridged. You definitely want the xps stuff (pink) not the Styrofoam style (white) stuff. Good luck!
@@thelwood ty for the help 🙏 keep me in your prayers 🙏
Also, you use wooden skewers that you use for shishka. Bobs I used to stick that in through the phone to give it reinforcement
Has anyone tried spray foam instead of glue and then sanding down until smooth? What about using woodworking joinery?
Wouldn't cutting small lines (scoring) the joints where the glue would go stick better has the glues would go inside the form some??
VERY helpful test you did, thank you!!!
Thanks!
Thank You So Much.!!!
I appreciate your through work.
Thank you!!
Epoxy is the way to go. All corner joins should be splined with rough cedar lathe, which requires a larger groove, thus allowing more epoxy into the groove, around the wood, and increasing the gluied surface area. Any interior cabinet or shelving structure ahould be likewise constructed and splined to the interior walls for added rigdity. Reinforce all interior corners with fiberglass. Best to just glass the entire interior, which makes the whole structure a one-piece build. Cover the whole exterior in fiberglass with at least double reinforcement at all corners - preferrably well radiused.
Trailer and piggy back campers endure gale forces and vibrations each time they are on the road - for hours at a time, and days on end.
I'd go for marine epoxy. It literally bonds to everything.
Nice, complete, and clear to understand your instructions... video
Thanks!
Purpose of the video aside, I LOVE your shop!
Use urethane foam, polyester resin won't eat through it. That is the foam that fibreglass composite makers use.
Excellent post, thank you for sharing.
On our rockets we use super glue with activation spray. Fins are reinforced with glue fillets.
I like a spiked roller to texture the surface. It helps the glue penetrate the foam.
Great idea! On the teardrop we did a combo of sand paper and a wall paper remove to scuff up the surface
The Dow foam has a coating on the factory surfaces that must be sanded off in order to get a good bond. I use it in my aircraft designs with epoxy.
We did sand the trailer, the edge to edge joint best represents the bond without any film. I was impressed with how deep the foam fusion bonded even through the film. Epoxy is great! Just wanted a one step, non fumey option. I bet your aircrafts are really cool!
Have you ever tried DAP Weldwood, The Original Contact Cement? I've never tried it with the pink foam board like you're using, but I have used it for over 30 years for making and gluing up custom closed cell foam saddles (and for adhering them to Royalex and other types of plastic) when outfitting whitewater canoes and kayaks. It's very difficult to get a good foam to foam or foam to plastic bond on many of these hulls, but when done properly, I've never had one fail yet. These saddles often spend a lot of time either completely submerged under water or at the very least, the glue joint is always wet for several hours a day (while paddling in hot or cold conditions), and they take a real beating on a daily basis w/o letting go. DAP Weldwood is made to adhere to Foam, Cloth, Metal, Leather, Wood, Plywood, Particle Board, Decorative Laminates, and Fiberglass. You need to rough up and brush or roll a good coat to each side of the object being glued, then wait a few minutes while it sets up (as per instructions), then press together firmly, and you'll probably never get it apart again. There are only two downsides to this product that I know... (1) You only get one chance to position the parts as you press them together, so you absolutely have to get it right the first time. (2) The fumes are very strong and can ignite from pilot lights, so you need a well ventilated space to work in. I swear by this stuff, and it's great for laminating several layers of foam (or whatever) together if needed, while also producing a pretty much waterproof bond. I'm almost positive it would work with the pink foam too, but would definitely test it first, just in case it did melt the foam when you applied it. The stuff I use is an oil base and has thinners that could dissolve the pink foam, but these are also the same thinners that evaporate while it sets up, before pressing the parts together. Not sure if this product is available in a water base or not, but if I ever build a foam camper, I'll definitely try it out to see how it bonds to that pink foam, before building mine. (Sorry for the long comment). And thanks for your glue test!
I had very good adhesion on face-to-face gluing with latex paint. separation quite often broke at the foam. Found that out gluing 1 inch foam pads for a TV stand.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing!
Gorilla glue expands, the fancier version of it expands more... the ordincary one probably calls for 2kg clamping force and the fancy stuff for 4
For joins that don't require sealing and don't permit clamping but need structural strength quickly, spray cyanoacrylate might work as well as it does with wood end grain.
Superglue dries very hard which makes sanding and shaping the foam afterwards difficult. You wind up with ridges and dimples where you try to sand the seam but take more of the surrounding material instead.
Gorrilla glue clear defintely does expand especially if you get it wet during curing just not as much. It actually says in the insructions your supposed to wet it. If you put some sort of reinforcement tape over the joints it will make it a whole lot stronger too. You could clamp it by putting a board on both sides and then applying a clamp
I think you're missing a trick here on the adhesives. Try 3M77 spray-on contact cement, designed for foam. This will also let you easily laminate your wood sheets, fiberglass cloth or plain cotton cloth to the foam before glassing it with epoxy.
But also, you're not preparing the mating surfaces of the foam as well as possible. You want to lightly sand the mating surfaces (a sanding sponge is good for this) to de-gloss the foam and remove the shiny coating layer. Then you want to poke holes into both sides of the joint where the surfaces touch, so that whatever adhesive you use, gets little "fingers" into the material rather than just trying to grab at the microscopic cells on the surface. A bamboo skewer can poke the holes, and, if you really like strength in a joint, poke in and break off the bamboo skewer into tiny lengths to act like dowels, and glue that into the joint as well, to help with shear loads and bending loads. Adding fiberglass tape or strips of cotton cloth (like from cheap dollar store or thrift store bedsheets) along joints using the contact cement, followed by epoxy glue, will make bullet-proof and water-tight joints, like the ones used in foam boat building. Those simple techniques will increase joint strength immensely.
About the foam melting when painted: you can use Kilz brand latex water based primer on this foam, to seal it, then it will take any kind of paint you want to use, house paints and including rattle can sprays, without melting.
Thank you for your input and the tip on kilz! That is great to know! We did sand the actual trailer and used some skewers. The side by side joint demonstrates a joint without any of the shiny surface. I was impressed with how deep the foam fusion bonded, even through the shiny surface. I will definitely check out the spray adhesive you mentioned! Thank you for the great tips!
@@thelwood When you try the 3m 77, spray both sides, let them air out and partly dry for a minute or two before joining them.
It's like opening Christmas presents
I've heard to use just expanding foam insulation
Supposed to work wonders
it's basically bubbly super glue. Same stuff.
Cover the outside and inside with a non stretchy fabric and resin. Denim shirt fabric would be cool. Blue face outside chequer face inside. That would be insanely strong.
Please try "Great Stuff" and compare this spray foam with the various glues you've experimented with. Nice, informative presentation.
If I repeat the experiment I will add it! The reason I avoided any spray foam was because I find it messy... but that could be user error :)
You will get better results if you rough sand the smooth foam first .
do you think 3m vhb tape can do the job? or LOCTITE PL 300 Foamboard Adhesive? I'm planning a teardrop and the foamie looks really interesting. Is the foam gonna be ate away by paint or other resin? do you need any wood frame as structures to support the foam ot its on its own?
Some paints and adhesives eat away at the foam, others don't. You'll need to test if you don't know for sure. There is a lot of info over at the TNTT forum.
The foam actually has a plastic sheet coating that can be pealed off.
But I would rasp the section or wire brush the area to be glued to get a true bond into the foam.
Then try pvc pipe glue or something that is not too hot.
Great information! Yes, we sanded off the plastic for the actual teardrop. And the side by side joint in this test did not have any of the coating. I was impressed that the foam fusion bondef deep into the foam even with the coating on it.
I havent used it on foam but leak stopper clear may work good but will take some time to dry
Great video keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Liquid nails is what I use and the package says "ok for styrofoam". and it does not melt the styro. It's cheap too.
Most of the Gorilla gules you need to moisten with water first. Hot melt Glue and structure adhisives works great with foam.
The best product to use for this project would be,
Regular SOPRA-ISO is a closed-cell polyisocyanurate foam insulation board laminated with a glass-fibre-reinforced organic facer.
Hi, I know of another TH-camr who did this exact same test, her channel goes by the name (scaryladyvideos), and the video is called (Styro Wars: Styrofoam Glue Tests) and the adhesive that worked the best for Styrofoam wasn't even glue it was Glidden Gripper Primer. And I bet you could use it in place of titebond 2 for the PMF.
Interesting! I will check it out!
Ruffing up the surface prior to gluing will give you a stronger joint when you use wood glue.
Absolutely! We did rough up the surface on the trailer
Great information! Well done! Thank you.
Thanks!
Do you reinforce tour joints with nylon winddow screen fastened with latex paint ?
I've used spray foam to bond foam together worked great messy though
It is the messy factor that kept me from trying it!
Really good thanks. I build full size foam airplanes.
That's awesome!
Super useful info. Thanks!
Do you think contact cement would work better
I'd think weather stripping adhesive would work?
Thanks so much for this information.
Acetone is usually the ingredient that eats your foam in paint and spray glues. Check your ingredients.
Great presentation. I think we'll be doing a "foamie" as a mobile workshop. Have you tried sanding the surfaces to give the adhesive a little "tooth" to hang on to?
Thank you! We did sand the surface on the teardrop. I was impressed at how deep the foam fusion bonded even through the shiny coating
* might suggest, liquid nails foam adhesive, the from will fail before the adhesive
I use Great Stuff minimum expansion !
I know it would be much more labor intensive, but I wonder if putting dowel pegs in the joint would make it even stronger? Or, you could use right angle triangle buttresses, as well.
We did add BBQ skewers in some parts. It did add a lot of strength! But since the roof had kerf cuts to help make the bend we didn't add as many as we had planned. It was pretty difficult to assure they were going into the foam and not the kerf gap.
@@thelwood Thank you for replying! My dad used to do in the field repairs on our foam radio controlled plane using cactus needles dipped in 5-minute epoxy. He would join the broken ends, holding them in place and pushing the needles in with a pliers. Worked perfectly!
@@1chumley1 that's awesome!
When using Gorilla Glue you should always wet both side of the foam with water before applying the glue as it will set much quicker.
Two pack epoxy with wood stringers clear coat would look great
A little Blue Dream weed applied to the brain prior to construction helps immensely
What do you mean about the score marks?
What about roughening up the surface of the insulation by sanding it?
On the trailer we sanded and ran a wall paper scraper over it. The side by side joint would replicate this since the surface film was removed. I was impressed with how deep the bond was through the film when using foam fusion.
How do these fire with high temperatures? And would these be useful to bond foam to metal? If not, what could work?
Foam fusion is supposed to will with high temps but work work with metal. For the parts where we were bonding foam to metal we used 2 part exopy.
Did you rough up (and clean) the gluing surfaces before glue up? I missed that part. That will definitely help adhesion. The shiny surface on unsanded foam hinders the adhesion.
We sanded the surface on the teardrop. The side by side joint in the test didn't have any of the shiny surface. I was impressed with how deep the foam fusion bonded the foam even with the coating on it.
what material is the countertop you showed? very good test sequence btw!!!
Thanks! The countertop is Imperial black 12x12 vinyl tile from home depot
Doesnt the strenght in the construction come from the PMf anyway? I mean.. the glue is most important in the assembly proces
Absolutely, that is why I really like something that holds well with no expansion and minimal mess!
The shape of that foamy, is a wing, at speed, it will create lift. How much speed and how much lift I don't know, but it might make it dangerous or, easier to trailer
Fortunately the vespa never pulls it at speeds greater than about 35 mph. It pulls very easily, but wind gusts are the biggest challenge
If you were able to do a mortise and tenon joint or dovetail, would you have a specific preference glue, or would any of these be impossible due to insufficient sliding time?
The foam fusion would still work well, it behaves like Elmer's glue
@@thelwood Thank you. I made this funky duct in my attic which directs air from a swamp cooler in the attic vent to a hole in the garage where I work on cars, and it is a leaky fail. Now I have cool tools to make "real joints" so this video was motivation and technology combined.
I build massive projects for hotels and casinos using extruded polystyrene. The Gorilla Glue is not being used properly.
1 - The Owens Corning/FOAMULAR (purple) has a tight surface with no polyethylene film. I find non-filmed XPS more resistant to gluing . If using a XPS with no film, you need to abrade the area being glued. DOW XPS (blue) glues more easily. I would suggest sanding edges for both Gorilla Glue and Foam Fusion projects.
2 - When using Gorilla Glue one can periodically clamp large flat surfaces with superglue. Make sure to mist the glue as to speed up the cure.
3 - When fabricating with XPS use 3" drywall screws(!) on 90degree joints. Not only does this increase the flex strength of the joint it behaves as a much better clap than tape. You may even wish to pilot hole and add a drop of Gorilla Glue or Foam Fusion before screwing.
4 - When using Gorilla Glue drill holes along the glue joint. This takes advantages of the expansion of the glue which will fill the hole like roots.
5 - Gorilla Glue cures to a styrofoam like material. It sands extremely well on exterior corners. For interior corners simply monitor any ooze out and clean it up as the glue cures with a wet paper towel.
Great information! Thank you! We did sand the foam in the project. The edge to edge joint didn't have any film and foam fusion was superior. I will try the owens coming one!
Guys - great info there. Thanks.
I want to bond foamboard to aluminum sheet. Make a torsion box flat panel to cover my pickup truck bed.
I have EPS foam. Hope it will also work well ??
Will G Glue, or PL Foam glue bond well to aluminum ?
@@SquareRootOfMinus1 aluminum can oxidize between the adhesive and the aluminum. Basically this means that the glue delams from the aluminum because of a chalky growth. To avoid this, you'll need to use anodized aluminum.
Also aluminum has a huge temperature instability. It will expand at a much greater rate than the EPS.
Have you considered using composite aluminum? It's both coated and designed to dissipate heat and is much more temperature stable.
Great test THX
3M Polystyrene Insulation Adhesive 78 Aerosol is purpose made for this job...it's just expensive and not available locally.
Thank you for the tip, I will check it out!
Thank you.
thank you
Blue can window and door closed cell spray foam.
What is the full name and brand of the 'foam fusion' please? I can't seem to find it. Thank you for this video, very informative!
Hot wire foam factory foam fusion
@@thelwood thank you!
Cool!. I'd love to know how well they adhered foam to something like aluminium panel. Does foam fusion only work with foam or porous materials like wood?
I works amazing on all porous materials! I am not sure about aluminum but it worked great on the vinyl tile that wasn't porous. But the directions do specify porous surfaces
@@thelwood Many thanks. I've found a couple of stores here in Sydney (Aust) who sell it so I guess I'll give it a try. I'm looking at a 3mm aluminium bonded panel (alum both sides with a thin foam sheet between) and then 20mm foam bonded to it. The glue has been a bit of a question mark :)
@@kakman1958 let me how it goes! Sounds like a fun project!
Hey kakman - I also want to bond foamboard to aluminum sheet.
Tonneau cover for my pickup. So making flat panels about 160 X 100 cm. ( ~ 5’ X 3.5’ )
But I have EPS - white lumpy foam made from beads.
I hope that works too. Any suggestions ?
Wonder if the PL adhesive worked well for foam - aluminum. Thnx
What is the surface material, paper? or do you have uPVC there? XPS foam? Polystyreen usualy melts from most glues.
XPS
LEXEL stuffs amazing id try that
Awesome do you take orders I like something light and basic that I can tow behind my Electra glide
Foam is meant for insulation, not a structural component. You need a frame for bracing and laminate.
It does get very stiff with the PMF on it. And there was also a wooden "grid" on the outside. It is much stronger than I thought it would be :)
Try black hot glue, that should be interesting
thats awesome not the foam I noticed the huge lazy susan with router sander etc. I have never seen that before so much better then pluging then unpluging really cool
Thanks! It is handy to have!
Where are you located. Everytime I see the scenery it seems to be northern surrounding … am I correct… I’m probably wrong … just wondering cause to do projects like foamies teardrops you’d need warm hot dry weather…
Arizona!
@@thelwood ohhh my friend lives in Arizona, I may have to go for a treck…. Love your work…