I have the same router lift and I never realized (paid attention to) the relative measurement thingy you use to zero it out until now. Thank you. As an aside, I look forward to your videos. I appreciate the you putting the work first and bypassing well-worn path of techno-music-fast-forward-polooza. Best to you. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark! Yeah, I'm not a big fan of the "see what I made" videos without a lot of explanation on what, how or why they did. Thanks for the support!
Hello Guy. Great video. Very nicely done. Neat and clean cuts. I particularly enjoyed your methodology/procedure for making the door, that incorporated the full use of your excellent equipment.
I appreciate you going into the detail about the router bit set up, that was very helpful. I made a headboard for a king size bed using similar bits and it was a real struggle to get the bits set up correctly using the instructions that came with the bits. I eventually made the joints successfully, but it took many, many test pieces. Once I had it dialed it, you can bet I marked and saved those test pieces for future set up blocks. Thanks Guy.
Great video Guy! Every time I watch a video of yours I end up with a shopping list. Here's today's, woodpecker coping sled, incra fence x 2, raised panel router bit set. Cheers for a great video ;)
Great video Guy, nice instruction. And that router table.. Wow, I think I may have to trade in my sway-backed harbor freight POS I have had for 15 years on your model. Thanks Guy.
It is just a crap insert I bought and stuck in my table saw extension. It sucks and I have been wanting to upgrade or years, but I am the king of getting by. Cheap bastard ;) I am going to look into the incra setup. Can't wait to see how the project turns out, I bet it is going to be beautiful. You do great work sir.
Beautiful result. I can say that having a locking feature on the router table is essential: I have a Triton TRA001 mounted under my Kreg table and when I'm running my box joints through my jig I have to raise the bit back up after every few passes and I expect to do it for my cabinet doors, too.
Incredible work Guy! You always seem to make it look so easy. I've been saving up for my Incra router station and will watch all your videos a second time when it comes time to actually use it! Keep up the great work.
Nice video and explanation Guy. I do mine on a shaper with an outboard fence for the stiles but similar nonetheless. One thing that I do if the piece is to be stained is to apply one coat of stain to the profile of the raised panel before assembly. this way, you always have an even color even if the raised panel shrinks. I also use a product called Panel Buddies in the grooves to keep the panel centered and remove any rattle that could potentially occur during seasonal changes. Steve
Thanks Steve! I have seen your shaper in your vids, and would love to have one someday. I normally do finish the panel or at least the inside edges before assembly. This is for a commission, and there are 5 panels in total. They will be going around a kitchen island, and the home owner wanted them unfinished as they have people that are going to refinish and stain the entire kitchen. It doesn't show in the video, but I put a little glue in the center of the top of the panel so it expends into the groove on both sides.
The boys at Incra must love this video so much. I don't have any plans of upgrading my router table stuff, but if I did I would be picking up the Incra gear....adjusting a couple thou with confidence! I still tapper tapper tapper and hope and pray :D
Great Job Guy! I only have a few "go to" woodworking channels and you're one...Thanks! [Any chance of a similar video with a divided light middle???] I'd really enjoy seeing how you'd approach the muntins and mullions.
Thanks Tom! This is one of 5 panels I made. 3 of them did have a center divider. It's easy to do. The divider has both the stile profile on both sides, and it is coped on the ends. Then just make panels to fit!
Nice job.. question.. I didn't see you use space balls or panel buddies to keep the panel centered. What keeps the panel from shifting around and exposing unfinished edges? Thanks just learning raised panels.😊
Great tutorial Guy! Easily understood. Thank you! Quick question... I didn't see you use space balls, etc in your grooves. What's your thoughts on that in regards to panel shrinkage, etc? TY
What is the difference between "cope and stick" and normal "stiles and rails"? Is it that you cut them out on a tongue and groove bit? Or is it the "fluted" shape?
If you have never cut stile and rail. I use only hardwood so I don't know about soft woods( get dressed white and red oak free) 1.DO NOT settle for a cheep set of bits. I first bought Yonico. Ruff and lots of tear out (even with backer). After much frustration I bought Freud adjustable 2 bit set(I already had a good raised panel bit). WOW what a difference! 2. You must have some way to securly hold the coping cut also called end grain rail cut. It looks like Guy uses a "store bought" coping sled. I made my own. I should have bought mine because when I made mine I did not have the skill to make it well. I guess I got lucky. 3. Make sure your stock is not cupped, twisted, or bent. And use dressed wood also( where you have run it thru your planner so it is good and smooth) that is all the same thickness. 4. Make sure the end of the rail is 90 degrees. The bearing on the rail cutter router bit will tend to follow whatever the profile is on the end of your rail end-face. It will not look good if It does not match the stile at 90 degrees. 5. I use my router bits to make frames for my wife's beautiful stained glass works. Remember that you must make your stiles long enough to fit what you are framing plus the width of your rail pieces minus the deapth of the grove in your rails plus 1/8" (1/8" top and bottom gives 1/4" of extra space) or 1/4" ( which gives 1/2" of extra room). 6. For rails, you cut the piece of wood to be equal to the width of what you are framing plus 1/8" to 1/4" on each side ( for the extra room when the wood expands And contracts with heat and humidity). If you are making cabinet doors go on line and find a free program that will tell how big to make each piece. You need to know things like how wide your wood is, how large is total to be covered, how large is the opening, and how deep the grove is on your router bit ( Yonico is 1/4" deep but my set of Freud cuts a 7/16" deep grove) plus other info. I found these programs to be huge time savers for us beginers. Also this a fixed in table router job - don't even try this free hand! There is more of course but these are the mistakes I made when I began. Hope it helps.
I have the same router lift and I never realized (paid attention to) the relative measurement thingy you use to zero it out until now. Thank you. As an aside, I look forward to your videos. I appreciate the you putting the work first and bypassing well-worn path of techno-music-fast-forward-polooza. Best to you. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark! Yeah, I'm not a big fan of the "see what I made" videos without a lot of explanation on what, how or why they did. Thanks for the support!
Hello Guy. Great video. Very nicely done. Neat and clean cuts. I particularly enjoyed your methodology/procedure for making the door, that incorporated the full use of your excellent equipment.
That door looks amazing! You made it look so simple which means you did an excellent job with the presentation.
Thanks Sean! It is actually pretty easy. You just have to be precise when setting up the equipment as there is little or no room for error.
I appreciate you going into the detail about the router bit set up, that was very helpful. I made a headboard for a king size bed using similar bits and it was a real struggle to get the bits set up correctly using the instructions that came with the bits. I eventually made the joints successfully, but it took many, many test pieces. Once I had it dialed it, you can bet I marked and saved those test pieces for future set up blocks. Thanks Guy.
Thanks Ed! Yeah, it can take a few test cuts to get it dialed in right.
Great video Guy! Every time I watch a video of yours I end up with a shopping list. Here's today's, woodpecker coping sled, incra fence x 2, raised panel router bit set. Cheers for a great video ;)
Thanks Geoff!
Thank you very much for this video, and the explanations and accompanying close ups. Detailed, comprehensive, and it answered my questions.
Great video Guy, nice instruction. And that router table.. Wow, I think I may have to trade in my sway-backed harbor freight POS I have had for 15 years on your model. Thanks Guy.
Hey Brian! Yeah, I rely pretty heavily on my router table, and I am really liking this one. I didn't even know Harbor Freight made one!
It is just a crap insert I bought and stuck in my table saw extension. It sucks and I have been wanting to upgrade or years, but I am the king of getting by. Cheap bastard ;) I am going to look into the incra setup. Can't wait to see how the project turns out, I bet it is going to be beautiful. You do great work sir.
Great video Guy! That coping sled is slick!
Thanks Brian! The sled worked great!
Beautiful result. I can say that having a locking feature on the router table is essential: I have a Triton TRA001 mounted under my Kreg table and when I'm running my box joints through my jig I have to raise the bit back up after every few passes and I expect to do it for my cabinet doors, too.
Very nice door Guy! Great attention to detail.
Thanks Jody!
Yet another great video. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Huy!
Nice job! You made that look easy. Thanks for putting that video together. I will definitely refer back when I am doing a raised panel door.
Thanks Lowell!
Incredible work Guy! You always seem to make it look so easy. I've been saving up for my Incra router station and will watch all your videos a second time when it comes time to actually use it! Keep up the great work.
Nice video and explanation Guy. I do mine on a shaper with an outboard fence for the stiles but similar nonetheless. One thing that I do if the piece is to be stained is to apply one coat of stain to the profile of the raised panel before assembly. this way, you always have an even color even if the raised panel shrinks. I also use a product called Panel Buddies in the grooves to keep the panel centered and remove any rattle that could potentially occur during seasonal changes. Steve
Thanks Steve! I have seen your shaper in your vids, and would love to have one someday. I normally do finish the panel or at least the inside edges before assembly. This is for a commission, and there are 5 panels in total. They will be going around a kitchen island, and the home owner wanted them unfinished as they have people that are going to refinish and stain the entire kitchen. It doesn't show in the video, but I put a little glue in the center of the top of the panel so it expends into the groove on both sides.
ExtremeWoodworker
I like watching your videos ! Beautiful turned out the panel !
Thanks for watching!
nice job..... nice router....... great camera work, thanks
as always! good stuff guy looks great.gave me something to do while I was at the beach today!💯👍💪🍻
Thanks Joe!
AWESOME video Guy great information definitely will be watching a few times.
Thanks Thom!
The boys at Incra must love this video so much. I don't have any plans of upgrading my router table stuff, but if I did I would be picking up the Incra gear....adjusting a couple thou with confidence! I still tapper tapper tapper and hope and pray :D
Thanks Kuffy! Yeah, the lift is a really efficient and accurate way to raise or lower the bit.
Excellent tutorial and video, Guy. Those Incra tools are top notch.
Thanks Steve! I am really blessed to have all these cool toys to play with :)
Super clean Guy, nice video
Hey Wayne! Thanks buddy!
sure do appreciate your videos..
Thanks Geoff! I appreciate your support!
Can't ask for better than that.... envious of your setup.. 😉😊
Thanks Marc!
If you don’t mind me asking how much is a set up like that?
Nice work. I've made a number of raised panels but I've never had the stones to make a full depth pass with the big ass panel bit!
Thanks Dan! Well it wasn't a full depth pass, I still needed an extra 1/64th off :)
Great idea 💡 👍 👏
Great tutorial, Guy!
Thanks Matt!
As always a great job! I too didn't know you could zero out the dial.
Thanks Jeff! It's a very handy function, and for something like this, it really simplifies the process.
Great Job Guy! I only have a few "go to" woodworking channels and you're one...Thanks! [Any chance of a similar video with a divided light middle???] I'd really enjoy seeing how you'd approach the muntins and mullions.
Thanks Tom! This is one of 5 panels I made. 3 of them did have a center divider. It's easy to do. The divider has both the stile profile on both sides, and it is coped on the ends. Then just make panels to fit!
Good video and explication....nice router table setup..!
Thanks!
Nice job.. question.. I didn't see you use space balls or panel buddies to keep the panel centered. What keeps the panel from shifting around and exposing unfinished edges? Thanks just learning raised panels.😊
Nice work
Thanks Mike!
Great video Guy! (As always)... Any chance you might be urged into doing an arched panel and showing your technique??? Thanks.
Hey Tom! If I ever have a reason to add an arched panel to a project, be assured that I will video it!
Great tutorial Guy! Easily understood. Thank you! Quick question... I didn't see you use space balls, etc in your grooves. What's your thoughts on that in regards to panel shrinkage, etc? TY
What is the difference between "cope and stick" and normal "stiles and rails"? Is it that you cut them out on a tongue and groove bit? Or is it the "fluted" shape?
The cope and stick is the actual joint where the rails meet the stiles is all.
Are you leaving a gap around the panel for movement?
Awesome
Thanks John!
thanks. Do u need to leave a little room for wood expansion?
Yes, I mention in the video that I made the panels 1/4" smaller on the sides to make room for expansion/contraction
Nice
Thanks!
If you have never cut stile and rail.
I use only hardwood so I don't know about soft woods( get dressed white and red oak free)
1.DO NOT settle for a cheep set of bits. I first bought Yonico. Ruff and lots of tear out (even with backer). After much frustration I bought Freud adjustable 2 bit set(I already had a good raised panel bit). WOW what a difference!
2. You must have some way to securly hold the coping cut also called end grain rail cut. It looks like Guy uses a "store bought" coping sled. I made my own. I should have bought mine because when I made mine I did not have the skill to make it well. I guess I got lucky.
3. Make sure your stock is not cupped, twisted, or bent. And use dressed wood also( where you have run it thru your planner so it is good and smooth) that is all the same thickness.
4. Make sure the end of the rail is 90 degrees. The bearing on the rail cutter router bit will tend to follow whatever the profile is on the end of your rail end-face. It will not look good if It does not match the stile at 90 degrees.
5. I use my router bits to make frames for my wife's beautiful stained glass works. Remember that you must make your stiles long enough to fit what you are framing plus the width of your rail pieces minus the deapth of the grove in your rails plus 1/8" (1/8" top and bottom gives 1/4" of extra space) or 1/4" ( which gives 1/2" of extra room).
6. For rails, you cut the piece of wood to be equal to the width of what you are framing plus 1/8" to 1/4" on each side ( for the extra room when the wood expands And contracts with heat and humidity).
If you are making cabinet doors go on line and find a free program that will tell how big to make each piece. You need to know things like how wide your wood is, how large is total to be covered, how large is the opening, and how deep the grove is on your router bit ( Yonico is 1/4" deep but my set of Freud cuts a 7/16" deep grove) plus other info. I found these programs to be huge time savers for us beginers.
Also this a fixed in table router job - don't even try this free hand!
There is more of course but these are the mistakes I made when I began. Hope it helps.
Dale Wier thank you for this valuable information,
No space balls?
What router table are you using?
It is an Incra router table. There is a video here on my channel on how I built it.